Nextelbuddy final zhp wagon project

[nextelbuddy]

so this will be my final ZHP touring project for a long time. I feel like it took me forever to complete this specific one and overall just couldn't catch a break. everything was hard when it shouldnt have been.

this is a titanium silver 2000 323i so to make this a ZHp wagon takes the most work.

most wiring changes, most coding, most items having to be retrofitted.

This car was good and bad. good as it was a nice loaded example to start with and bad that previous owner was a meth head that didnt take care of the car at al. major smoker car alert.

I started with the mechanical bits first....

- m3 3.62 rear subframe, brakes and LSD diff that I had left over from another part out.
- installed drive by wire pedal system
- converted from auto to manual
- installed M3 MK20 DSC module, brake booster and M3 master cylinder.
- installed M3 front and rear brakes
- installed ZHP exhaust and hangers
- installed ZHP steering rack
- installed M3 OE control arms, FCAB and tierods
- Replaced rear driver side M3 camber arm (was bent by previous person)
- installed M3 Mk20 grey ABS Sensors
- installed ZHP M54 engine, 6 speed and M3 drive shaft
- Installed ZHP DME EWS module and swapped in ZHP Keyfob circuit board into my original 323 key to retain all my ignition locks in place.
- Used WINKfP to flash DME to latest Software update available
- Coded IKE, LCM, DSC module as Manual and coded proper Euro wagon 330i FA/SA chassis with performance option (doesn't do anything special just being OCD)
- installed all emissions equipment including 4 wire DMTL module in back, repinning body harness connector for DME and running 4th new wire from rear of car to DME box.
- installed SAP and MAF with wiring to DME box
- Started engine and resolved CEL issues
- replaced bad O2 sensor bank 1 pre cat sensor
- remove interior, vacuum carpet and deep clean with carpet steam cleaner
- removed black rear touring leather seats and stripped the leather covers off all pieces
- installed alcantara covers from Sreten in Germany
- installed front refurbished heated/lumbar alcantara sport seats
- installed facelift front end
- installed new headlight lenses
- installed and retrofitted headlight washer system
- installed latch child safety system from 2003 model car (2000 model cars had holes but not the hardware)
- installed M3 leather steering wheel, new ZHP knob, alcantara boots
- recharged AC system

Car was aligned today with new tires and balanced.

so currently this is the current specs of the wagon as it sits.



2000 330i 6MT ZHP (243k chassis miles no rust at all clean body)
- MS45.1 DME with all emissions in place
- 184k M54B30
- ZF 6 speed transmission
- e46 M3 Front and Rear brakes
- e46 M3 New OE Control arms and FCAB
- e46 M3 3.62 LSD diff m3 subframe and Driveshaft
- ZHP 712 steering rack
- New complete tie-rod assemblies
- OE BMW Alcantara Lumbar and heated Alcantara/Cloth M Sport euro interior
- Anthracite Black headliner (not installed yet will get to it soon)
- OE BMW Euro Anthracite Visors, pillars etc....(not installed yet will get to it soon)
- M3 leather steering wheel, ZHP shift knob
- Facelift front end conversion
- ZHP MtechII Full kit front, rear bumpers and side skirts.
- 4.7 LCM 5 blink system in place


just wanted to share my progress and its good to get this thing 80% complete. it drives very nice, smooth and quick gearing.

would love to keep this one so il have to see how that pans out.

on to the pictures!



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[Cabrio330]

That is impressive! Nice work!

[fredo]

+1. Looks great. TiAg is one of my fav colors. Any plans for cube trim ?

[russlan44]

wow, nicely done

[RUS_ZHP]

Hey Shawn, amazing job as usual! No wonder, why you were quite for some time.
I am glad to see that you installed full Alcantara interior.
It looks like another e46 wagon on the second picture? Also, didn't you bought Imola X5?

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[JPMo]

Just perfect as usual. Where did you source the style 135s? Im having the hardest finding a front and rear in good shape

[Chaplian]

Looking great! Makes me want to go find a 3.0 to dump into my wagon right now haha. Can I ask why you decided to stick with the 3.0 instead of the S54?

Did the ZHP exhaust fit with the M3 rear end? I'm getting conflicted opinions from various forum posts as I will be doing this soon also.

Looking forward to future posts!

[johnrando]

Nice werk!

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[704sw]

Nice work as always, Shawn.

[nextelbuddy]

Thanks everyone, sorry for the late reply. Been extremely busy with bunch of cars getting them ready to sell.

S54 wagon
2006 M3 (currently prepping that one now)
2000 ZHP wagon.

I just finished getting the interior done, only thing missing now now is black cube trim, I'm working on getting that locally soon.

I did black headliner this weekend, euro black A B and C pillars, black handles, visors, mounting brackets in ceiling for the cargo net, repair and recover sun roof visor as well.

All of the interior pieces like pillars, visors, handles etc are BMW parts.

The headliner I pulled myself, stripped and recovered with headliner fabric I got from Joannes fabric locally.

It was my first time the doing headliner, got a few wrinkles in some places but overall it is 1000% better than the stained, smelly loose grey headliner.


So the interior is something unique now that will really set it off for the up coming sale of this one.


I wanted to keep this wagon but between the red zhp m3, X5, 2006 m3 and thu car.. something has to go. My red sedan isn't going anywhere and I the X5 has more room, can tow, and it's imola to match my sedan so with that said this Zhp wagon will get a new owner soon as well.

Thinking about bring a trailer to see how it does.

Here's some pics from headliner project.
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[cakM3]

That looks awesome Shawn!! GLWS[emoji1417]


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[nextelbuddy]

That looks awesome Shawn!! GLWS[emoji1417]


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Thanks man! It's hard to believe it's a 2000 car, with all the updates it feels but like a 2005 ZHP now. Love the way it handles and the steering feel is wonderful. I wish I could retrofit the m54 lf2 power Sterling pump to the S54 on my red car, it's lovely with it's minimal assistance.

[nextelbuddy]

Added some mudflaps
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[nextelbuddy]

Welp. Crickets in here. Probably should have just left it stock at this point lol.

Anyway zhp engine wasn't selling so just pulled it and dropped jn s54 with rod bearing service. Drives great with then zf 6 speed t and new luk Clutch kit.

Something this smooth and quiet has convinced me to go ahead and trunk floor pan swap on my red sedan and run am oem m3 exhaust system when ever I get time to work on that car .

Will be getting new videos and pics and try to decide if I want to risk this car on bring a trailer. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191028/3e04302de17b5dd719c857cede5aeb93.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191028/7d2a01364f05611e61459cbe50d998a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191028/5b72e24fd046051a2e0159b0f91d2f95.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191028/4e7acb2a48b8287e7c09db2787b9f4c4.jpg

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[cakM3]

duuuuuude...... :drool :drool :drool

If my finances were in order I would drop $$$ for this touring right now. I'm surprised to see no one talking to you about this awesome resurrection 35871

[Stigissimo]

Unreal work Shawn. love following it on insta too. I’m really interested in seeing what this car sells for (which it most certainly will). Maybe the lack of ZHP sale was just due to an inopportune time of the year to sell a car??

As for the trunk floor, I just recently completed a full M3 swap on a Mystic blue wag - full MTech like this one - and did the trunk floor swap to set it apart from the rest (can you believe there is a “rest” for s54 swapped wagons lol). Highly recommended, it looks awesome and it’s great to have the flexibility to be able to run a full m3 setup. A friend and I DIY’d it - if you plan on doing it yourself hit me up with any q’s.




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[nextelbuddy]

Unreal work Shawn. love following it on insta too. I’m really interested in seeing what this car sells for (which it most certainly will). Maybe the lack of ZHP sale was just due to an inopportune time of the year to sell a car??

As for the trunk floor, I just recently completed a full M3 swap on a Mystic blue wag - full MTech like this one - and did the trunk floor swap to set it apart from the rest (can you believe there is a “rest” for s54 swapped wagons lol). Highly recommended, it looks awesome and it’s great to have the flexibility to be able to run a full m3 setup. A friend and I DIY’d it - if you plan on doing it yourself hit me up with any q’s.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProYeah totally if you have any pictures or tips for how to get the Trunk floor out clean let me know. The only thing that was holding me back really was I wanted to make sure that I cut out the floor nice and not ugly lol. When I cut out the fenders for the car from a parts car I tried to cut out the floor pan with a cut-off wheel and also a sawzall.. I just could not get it all the way out so I gave up since I already had an existing solution in place of the time. I tried using a spot well drill bit to drill out all the spot welds that didn't help as much as I wanted it to unfortunately..

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[Stigissimo]

Yeah totally if you have any pictures or tips for how to get the Trunk floor out clean let me know. The only thing that was holding me back really was I wanted to make sure that I cut out the floor nice and not ugly lol. When I cut out the fenders for the car from a parts car I tried to cut out the floor pan with a cut-off wheel and also a sawzall.. I just could not get it all the way out so I gave up since I already had an existing solution in place of the time. I tried using a spot well drill bit to drill out all the spot welds that didn't help as much as I wanted it to unfortunately..

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Interesting! I didn’t know you had it in the plans originally.

We actually took the latter approach: drilled out the spot welds. The trick is to be able to find all of them. The tub also splits into two sheets (an upper piece and lower piece) where it meets up towards the front of the car, because of the rear chassis design.

We used an angle grinder to separate the upper piece from the interior crossmember-type thing, while the lower piece meets the undercarriage metal 1/2 way down the front part of the tire tub at the spot welds. From there, we literally hammered it out.

However, in hindsight, I wouldn’t recommend this approach. We killed hours drilling spot welds and gingerly hammering it out - it was 3 am on a Sunday night after a full day before we got the M3 tub swapped over and tacked in. And while the idea of drilling spot welds was to preserve the metal, we ended up with Swiss cheese edges and a piece of metal no better preserved than if we cut it out. The benefit was that the drilled edges of the new tub would rest on top of the lip left in the wagon chassis, meaning that biotch was goin’ nowhere.

If you decide to go for it, shoot me a Pm and we can do a brain dump.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/a4fb321fe48b508a4f71fd8ce454b2d2.jpg

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[nextelbuddy]

Interesting! I didn’t know you had it in the plans originally.

We actually took the latter approach: drilled out the spot welds. The trick is to be able to find all of them. The tub also splits into two sheets (an upper piece and lower piece) where it meets up towards the front of the car, because of the rear chassis design.

We used an angle grinder to separate the upper piece from the interior crossmember-type thing, while the lower piece meets the undercarriage metal 1/2 way down the front part of the tire tub at the spot welds. From there, we literally hammered it out.

However, in hindsight, I wouldn’t recommend this approach. We killed hours drilling spot welds and gingerly hammering it out - it was 3 am on a Sunday night after a full day before we got the M3 tub swapped over and tacked in. And while the idea of drilling spot welds was to preserve the metal, we ended up with Swiss cheese edges and a piece of metal no better preserved than if we cut it out. The benefit was that the drilled edges of the new tub would rest on top of the lip left in the wagon chassis, meaning that biotch was goin’ nowhere.

If you decide to go for it, shoot me a Pm and we can do a brain dump.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/a4fb321fe48b508a4f71fd8ce454b2d2.jpg

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Prodo you think you can take one of the pictures that you posted and maybe use a sketch tool or something to draw a rudimentary line showing where you actually would recommend cutting?

Also once the trunk floor pan Is in place there is also mounting studs underneath of the battery box and the driver side that are supposed to accept the E46 M3 exhaust hanger brackets... normally if you replace the whole trunk floor you buy the whole piece online and it's the tub and the battery box all in one piece that gets welded in and then M3 battery box has those little mounting studs already built in but on non amp battery box is no studs don't exist so what was your solution for that?

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[Stigissimo]

do you think you can take one of the pictures that you posted and maybe use a sketch tool or something to draw a rudimentary line showing where you actually would recommend cutting?



Sure. Here’s what I could do on the old trusty iPhone:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/cc9223c97c4bca0df38ceb745e48c1a2.jpg


I think there are two options for the front section:

1) Drill the spot welds along the blue line. This will separate the lower sheet. Cut the upper sheet along the crossmember (red line) and you can swap the whole tub up to that point.

2)avoid cutting the upper sheet altogether (red line above the blue line), and cut directly along the spot welds (blue line). You’ll be swapping the “lower half” of the tub, replacing the area outlined by spot welds the whole way around, nothing more. Done right, this is probably the simplest method, avoids cutting the crossmember, but is much more dependent on getting a clean/identical cut along the front of both tubs.

For the sides, use the spot welds as a guide for your cut line.

On the m3, cut on the outside of the spot welds, right up against the frame rail, with the goal of having it be a little larger than the hole you cut out of the non-m.

Then on the non-m, cut to the inside of the spot welds, leaving a ridge containing the spot welds along the sides . Your larger M3 cutout will rest on top of this ledge, as if you had drilled spot welds out (just like mine did). This guarantees you will never lose the floor out the bottom lol.

For the rear, cut along the corner, or drill spot welds if you want more lip area to weld.

Overall it’s a better/safer way than trying to cut identically sized hole/cutouts in both chassis and having to deal with lining up what you didn’t cut exactly right.

I found some more pics of cutting out of the M3, it highlights where the spot welds are:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/2eedcd1f2c24b41e9faa56f2b1c01f06.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/8df271a9969c9fa848a2bab21a8b11d8.jpg


Also once the trunk floor pan Is in place there is also mounting studs underneath of the battery box and the driver side that are supposed to accept the E46 M3 exhaust hanger brackets... normally if you replace the whole trunk floor you buy the whole piece online and it's the tub and the battery box all in one piece that gets welded in and then M3 battery box has those little mounting studs already built in but on non amp battery box is no studs don't exist so what was your solution for that?

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Ah, the benefit of living 35 mins down the road from Turner Motorsport ;)

The driver’s side has one additional hangar mount directly aft of the non-m mount. The mount is actually a drop through bracket, with the bracket secured to the interior of the car and studs poking through the floor. I cut the corner of the floor out (after taking measurements). On the passenger side, the mount is a bracket welded to the frame rail. I used a grinder to grind it off.

This part is for sure DIY able, but my buddy who welds and I couldn’t get the brackets done on the day that he had planned to come 2.5 hours south to help me. So I took them to turner. They found that the driver bracket is actually a purchasable part, and purchased it to drop through the floor from inside the car. For the passenger side, they reused my M bracket. It cost me around $550. However, factory mounts. Way better than any alternative.

Sorry I didn’t grab pics of the brackets. It’s fairly straightforward though.

Keep in mind once swapped, you have to swap over the M3 evap system, lines and all. I cut the m3 wires and used them (and the connector) to extend the non-m canister harness. Connector is the same, as is the wiring. Direct swap and no codes.


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[Stigissimo]

Deleted; above post edited for clarity (I always regret typing novels out on my phone)

[nextelbuddy]

thanks a ton, that def helps and makes me a feel a lot more comfortable with going forward. have you posted any pics of your S54 wagon somewhere? would love to see it.

[nextelbuddy]

More pictures from last night.



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[PdZHP]

Just beautiful!

[BMWCurves]

Just beautiful!

Agreed.

[ZHPizza]

Who knew you could take a dope pic illustrating the M3 diff

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/489f51ad7bb8a1963c13667f233db60f.jpg

[Stigissimo]

thanks a ton, that def helps and makes me a feel a lot more comfortable with going forward. have you posted any pics of your S54 wagon somewhere? would love to see it.

No problem man! Don’t hesitate to hit me up if you want more info on what I did.

I haven’t posted anything yet, but rest assured I will soon! And don’t wanna hijack this thread from you posting those incredible pics [emoji15]

Lastly.. heard you were gonna sell it. I’m sure you have a price in mind... this beaut (with flaws though) was asking $26.5k:


https://glenshelly.com/sales/sold-full/2002-bmw-325it-s54-swapped-wagon

I’d be hesitant to purchase the above over yours even at the same price..




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