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TomSc
03-18-2019, 07:29 AM
Alright here we go. Just posted my intro thread in the new member section, but wanted to get this going as well.

The Short:
I'm about a week into owning a lovely Orientblau ZHP. It has ~130k on the odometer, but overall is in great shape. Got a few maintenance items take care of before I took ownership, but now the fun work begins.

Things I know:
So the car is not stock, there are few changes from previous owner(s) that I know up front, probably a few that I'll learn about on the way. I know that it has a swapped rear diff with a shorter final drive (love it). The headlights may or may not be aftermarket (more on that later), I know they have been swapped at some point. It has a Euro LCM with working rear fogs, but the headlight level dial doesn't do anything. Also, the auto level sensor seems to be disconnected. It could stand tires an an alignment, but that's minor.

So that brings us to...

Phase I - restoring former glory

For starters I'll just be dealing with the little things that will get this car back to acting like new. This will take a while as I'm sure I'll figure out what it needs as I go along.

The first issue to come up, was lighting:

Shortly after getting the car, the driver side headlight goes out and I get a headlight indicator on my dash. The light would come back after cycling the switch, but it was short lived, especially if I hit a bump. When starting the car, the driver side clearly struggled to come on, but usually would before going back out. So this became priority number one last weekend. The car has BiXenons and as mentioned has a Euro LCM that doesn't seem to fully work. While investigating the LCM I learned about the auto-level sensor, looked at my suspension and saw that it is disconnected. During the week I also noticed that the headlights only had 2 of the 4 screws holding them in, so I'm clearly not the first to tamper with this.

First order of business was find a junkyard with an e46 on hand and get screws, which was easy enough. Next was the task of getting the lights off and try swapping parts. With a little help we made that happen, and after taking the driver side light off saw a few things. The backing behind the xenon was loose, and when that came off the ignitor came too with no effort. Looking in the ignitor (pics to follow) I saw that it was black and burned, not at all like the pretty ignitor on the passenger side. We had found a likely culprit. I still thought it was worth swapping bulbs, but as we looked more at the light we saw that the plastic border inside the light was broken and after going back and forth thinking I just need a new headlight, decided to assemble it as is and put it back on. Sure enough, just seating the ignitor on firmly has the light working perfectly. New headlights are still on the menu, but now I have time to shop around.

Some other questions that came up: the lights will go up and down to calibrate when the car is on (but the engine off), however the Euro LCM aiming dial still does nothing. Is this a coding issue? I would have assumed that if the rear fogs work then it had been coded... but why not code the whole thing?

Second, my lights are aimed pretty low. Going to try tonight to raise them, but given the state of the plastic insert I'm not sure if that will go well on the driver side.

Third, when shopping for replacements, all of them had vertical plug attachments in the back of the light. Mine are all horizontal (parallel to the light). Can I use the headlights with vertical connectors, or will that not fit in my car? Is it a problem if the driver and passenger side are different? I meant to grab a part number, but I'll have to get that this evening to hopefully clarify what I'm asking.

Finally, before I did this the passenger light was set back pretty far from the front of the hood. I managed to get it much more flush when screwing it back into place.

All in all, not a bad weekend. I have two working headlights and the front end is more flush than before. We called it a victory and had a beer. Definitely raised more questions though. This is going to be fun.

Thanks for any input you have, and glad to be part of this little corner of the world.

racer2086
03-18-2019, 10:17 AM
Welcome! Did you get that in NC? Wondering if it was the orient blue on beige that I had my eye on. Looked like a nice car!

TomSc
03-18-2019, 10:52 AM
I did indeed. I actually looked at the one you picked up as well but you had already reached out to the owner when I contacted him. Hope it’s going well!

johnrando
03-18-2019, 09:39 PM
Not sure re headlights. GL with the work!

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TomSc
03-21-2019, 04:13 PM
Ok finally time for some updates.

First the lights. So poking around, it looks like the way my plugs are arranged (horizontal vs vertical) is indicative of ZKW lights? Is that right? And does it mean I have to get ZKWs if I replace the entire assembly?

I tried aiming with the wheels on the light housing and they did nothing. Well, not entirely, they did a little on the driver side, nothing on the passenger. The driver side black plastic bezel within the light was all kinds of broken, so honestly I expected that one to work less than the passenger side. I guess I'll be taking them back out and opening the passenger one to see if I can figure out the aim. Still no luck on the Euro LCM aiming dial. I looked behind the RF wheel and found the sensor, which is disconnected. Even wiggling that arm did nothing so as of now there's no way to make use of the motors in the lights (they do work, as I see the lights move on start-up).

I also think I figured out the gaps around the light - I didnt realize there was a... eyebrow(?) piece for lack of a better term. Mine definitely don't have that. That said, the light still doesn't sit perfectly in its gap. Can the mounting bracket adjust at all?

And here's my ignitor. Somehow still working, but will be in the market for headlights if anyone has recommendations:

34901

Next, on to another issue. What is causing this noise?? It seems most similar to DISA noise I heard on the internet, but unplugging didn't make it stop. It happens only at idle, and not every time I start the car. Generally after it's been driven around the block.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lvvlb2yRmEs

racer2086
03-21-2019, 05:20 PM
Sounds like a possible bad bearing. It sounds worse when the camera is towards the front of the engine. Take the belt off and see if it goes away.

3LiterStraightSix
03-21-2019, 05:21 PM
If your disa is bad, where the flap has actually broken off of the pivot arm, it'll still flap around and make noise, even after unplugging, I believe.

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TomSc
03-22-2019, 05:13 AM
Sounds like a possible bad bearing. It sounds worse when the camera is towards the front of the engine. Take the belt off and see if it goes away.

Definitely worse near the front, I was wondering if it could be pulley/bearing related. I’ll try taking the belt off. There are times that I don’t hear it at all so just have to make sure I dont get fooled

racer2086
03-22-2019, 08:17 AM
Good point. You just want to see if you can isolate it. We want to make sure it's an accessory and not something else more serious...like something internal. But from the sound, it seems like just a bearing going bad either on the WP or maybe alt or a/c compressor.

GotZHP
03-22-2019, 04:44 PM
Get a mechanics stethoscope! I bought one to help find out which pulley was making noise. Super cheap and super easy to use. I ultimately ended up swapping out all of my pulleys over the course of 5-10k miles though as they were all original.


https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Mechanics-Stethoscope-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B01BUJZBOO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3FU457K61Z0CS&keywords=car+stethoscope&qid=1553301704&s=automotive&sprefix=car+steth%2Cautomotive%2C191&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

If you think yours are all original, I'd recommend swapping them out as a best practice / preventative maintenance.

Thatguy_JZ
03-22-2019, 07:00 PM
It could definitely be pulley related. Pull the belt and run the engine to see if it goes away. While the belt's off, free spin the pullies. If they free wheel and rattle, there's your problem. A proper one should be silent and spin with some resistance then come to a stop.

I did all pullies and tensioners along with Continental belts and it's nice and quiet up front now. No more chirps or bearing rattles.

I have a new INA drive belt tensioner pulley if you want it. It's OEM. $10, I'm in Winston Salem.

TomSc
03-28-2019, 06:40 AM
Alright a few updates:

Last weekend I got a lot done. I took the headlights off again and discovered the vertical adjustment screw was off its track. With a lot of prying I got it back in place and now my lights almost aim high enough. Also put an Aux input into my sunglasses holder so I’m finally not stuck with local radio stations. Added my first quart of oil and successfully fixed a low oil light on engine shutoff.

To celebrate I took it on a shakedown through the country side and came back with a SES light on... It was throwing lean codes when I bought it but not enough to get a light on. Figured this was a good excuse to establish myself with a local Indy shop and learned it’s the MAF sensor. They also pinpointed that rattle to the pulleys, so a prize for you guys getting it right. Letting them take care of those repairs and trading a little time for money, but it’s a good shop so I don’t mind giving them business. This weekend will replace my missing headlight trim and put on a new hood cowl.

As a bonus, something I did fixed my LCM! Or... it just decides when it wants to work. Now it’s about 50/50 if I can control my lights with the thumb wheel:


https://youtube.com/watch?v=p1BDrmc04Cw

tomnobes
03-28-2019, 07:02 AM
Does your car have a brand new coby wheel wrap done? I test drove a car with the same specs as you listed and it shifted beautifully..

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TomSc
04-01-2019, 09:00 AM
Could be, the Alcantara is in great shape and the stitching looks new. That said I’m not sure shifts great is how I would describe it. For the most part it’s good but I definitely get some notchiness, especially from 1st to 2nd. I’m actually thinking next project will be transmission fluid. I can’t tell that it’s ever been changed in its 130k miles. I’m a little nervous about lifting it up, last time I did any work under a car was my Jeep that I could fit under.

Hood cowl is on and looks great, little detail, but makes me happier.

TomSc
04-19-2019, 12:18 PM
Overdue update:

Had a friend with jack and lifts come over and we successfully got her off the ground. Transmission fluid didn't look terrible but ~2 bottles of Ravenol MTF later and gear shifts are silky smooth. Went ahead and changed the oil while we were down there and tightened up the parking brake because it kept trying to roll away from me on hills. Much tighter now. All in all a successful day of work. I need to get better about documenting work as I'm doing it, but please take this photo of a shakedown drive instead.

34994

danewilson77
04-20-2019, 02:55 PM
Overdue update:

Had a friend with jack and lifts come over and we successfully got her off the ground. Transmission fluid didn't look terrible but ~2 bottles of Ravenol MTF later and gear shifts are silky smooth. Went ahead and changed the oil while we were down there and tightened up the parking brake because it kept trying to roll away from me on hills. Much tighter now. All in all a successful day of work. I need to get better about documenting work as I'm doing it, but please take this photo of a shakedown drive instead.

34994

Gorgeous, and great work.

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ZHPizza
04-20-2019, 08:04 PM
Glad to hear you like the Ravenol as I have some waiting to replace the Redline D4 ATF that's in there now