Talk Me Down From the Ledge, Please? [Archive] - BMW E46 330 ZHP For Sale Forum

MsRN

01-25-2019, 08:31 AM

After a long night shift, I headed home today in -9ºF weather. About 20-25 minutes from home, I noticed the yellow oil pressure warning indicator. Being in no position to immediately investigate during a -30ºF windchill on the interstate, I kept driving. At a stoplight about a mile from home, I smelled what seemed like road tar—or burning oil. I arrived home, threw open the iced-over hood, and discovered oil all over the right side of the engine bay. I impulsively pulled up the dipstick, and black oil literally boiled up from it, splattering my jacket as I jumped back. And being as tired as I am right now, I’m not sure whether to cry and plan to buy a new car, or whether I just need to replace the valve cover gasket (I think), fill the ZHP with fresh Mobil1 0W40 and LiquiMoly Ceratec, clean up the engine bay and drive on.

Thoughts?

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slater

01-25-2019, 09:34 AM

don't jump!!

first off - this sucks, and mostly because it's the middle of winter.

if oil is bubbling out of the dipstick, then you have positive pressure in the crankcase. do you still have a CCV with the supercharger? regardless... with those temps you're experiencing, it sounds like you may have some frozen oil condensate somewhere in the CCV/PCV plumbing. that would cause pressure buildup in the crankcase, head, etc - oil will escape at the path of least resistance, which is usually the valve cover gasket. hopefully your valve cover didn't crack.

i have experienced this firsthand with my old ZHP - before i figured out how to heat the oil catch can so that the system wouldn't freeze over (we have a similar climate here).

get some sleep, and then have a look for the source of the oil leak. :) you got this!

MsRN

01-25-2019, 09:56 AM

MsRN

01-25-2019, 10:05 AM

The dealership had one valve cover gasket in stock; I’ll pick it up with oil and a filter after a nap. According to the parts guy at my dealership, this is a common problem for E46s in this climate, and there are a few fixes for it. More later!

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slater

01-25-2019, 10:14 AM

The car still has crankcase ventilation—there’s a PCV hose between the valve cover and the S/C. So are you thinking that the PCV hose could have frozen? Or by CCV are you referring to another part of the CV system?

yep... exactly, that hose. pull it off and check the insides!

The dealership had one valve cover gasket in stock; I’ll pick it up with oil and a filter after a nap. According to the parts guy at my dealership, this is a common problem for E46s in this climate, and there are a few fixes for it. More later!

if there is positive crankcase pressure, you need to find the root cause - hopefully it's the PCV hose (or the PCV itself!).

Johnmadd

01-25-2019, 01:13 PM

I get mayo in the winter and I have been running around around in 5th gear to see if it being at higher rpm levels helps combat that, I will let you know if that helps.

Sockethead

01-25-2019, 03:44 PM

The whole OEM CCV system is eliminated with the TS supercharger. It replaces the stock manifold. All there is, is one hose from the valve cover to the PCV valve on top the the supercharger manifold. My bet would be that PCV valve got frozen. That PCV valve is a BMW part but I don't know the part number.

My car had mayo in that PCV valve and it's been down here its whole life. Michele, I'd consider getting an oil catch can. That's the route I'm going to take. I already had one in it but the baffling wasn't good enough. It's gotta have good baffling

MsRN

01-26-2019, 06:36 AM

MsRN

01-26-2019, 07:00 AM

MsRN

01-26-2019, 07:41 AM

Also, does the fact that I changed to a mechanical thermostat, which runs the engine cooler, have any bearing on this scenario?

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MsRN

01-26-2019, 09:17 AM

I just picked up a new valve cover gasket, oil and filter from the stealership. The parts rep told me a workaround is to drill two very small holes in the oil filler cap at 90-degree angles to the tabs.

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slater

01-26-2019, 09:57 AM

I jut had a look at the Radium catch can; I think I now know what you mean by ‘mayo’. That model of catch can doesn’t appear to use baffles, but instead uses stainless mesh material. Do you think that would work, or should I look elsewhere?

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i would pass on the radium can - you are correct about the lack of baffling.... the design is... well.... baffling? LOL.

anyway - 42draftdesigns makes great catch cans, and there is 1 or 2 mishimoto ones that look OK...

Also, does the fact that I changed to a mechanical thermostat, which runs the engine cooler, have any bearing on this scenario?

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it shouldn't.

I just picked up a new valve cover gasket, oil and filter from the stealership. The parts rep told me a workaround is to drill two very small holes in the oil filler cap at 90-degree angles to the tabs.

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interesting. never heard of this before!

MsRN

01-26-2019, 10:04 AM

i would pass on the radium can - you are correct about the lack of baffling.... the design is... well.... baffling? LOL.

anyway - 42draftdesigns makes great catch cans, and there is 1 or 2 mishimoto ones that look OK...

it shouldn't.

interesting. never heard of this before!

I’m looking at the 42draftdesigns can right now; thinking about the NPT-threaded one for versatility’s sake. I agree that it seems the best option of the three (Radium and Mishimoto being the other two). I also read your thread about heating the can; thinking to source those parts as well, so I can cold weather-proof my car and prevent this disaster from repeating itself. Temperatures are supposed to be in the minus 20º-30º F range this week, which bodes ill for a car that has to sit on a surface lot at work all night.

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Sockethead

01-26-2019, 11:46 AM

I had a Mishimoto can, Although the design of the one I had was good on the outside, the can was completely empty of baffling on the inside.

Peter, where did you mount the can on your e46?

MsRN

01-26-2019, 11:49 AM

I had a Mishimoto can, Although the design of the one I had was good on the outside, the can was completely empty of baffling on the inside.

Peter, where did you mount the can on your e46?

So it sounds like 42draftdesigns is the winner. I’m thinking it should go in that open space at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side.

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slater

01-26-2019, 01:27 PM

I’m looking at the 42draftdesigns can right now; thinking about the NPT-threaded one for versatility’s sake. I agree that it seems the best option of the three (Radium and Mishimoto being the other two). I also read your thread about heating the can; thinking to source those parts as well, so I can cold weather-proof my car and prevent this disaster from repeating itself. Temperatures are supposed to be in the minus 20º-30º F range this week, which bodes ill for a car that has to sit on a surface lot at work all night.

it isn't really the sitting, it's short trips - how long is your commute? it's got to be at least 20min with these temps - you need to burn off the condensate.

Peter, where did you mount the can on your e46?

i actually had it sitting right up front, next to the PS fluid reservoir. it was up there initially for ease of access (for testing), and short hose runs - but it seemed to work OK.

So it sounds like 42draftdesigns is the winner. I’m thinking it should go in that open space at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side.

excellent - i have one of their 'ultimate' cans here (the one with the dipstick) that is going in my 335.

as for location - the drug bin really is a great spot for ease of access, and ease of mounting - but the hose runs are fairly long. i will likely mount the one in the 335 directly over the headers - you want as much residual heat to keep that thing warm. also, the 0ºC thermoswitch and 5w silicone heating pad that i used before, i will re-use on the 42draftdesigns can - it just worked so well....

in hindsight here, for this thread - the G.A.S. CCV really is the ultimate solution, albeit expensive - i ran it on my Touring with the ZHP motor and man, it worked so well. but... i guess it won't work with the supercharger??

MsRN

01-26-2019, 03:12 PM

it isn't really the sitting, it's short trips - how long is your commute? it's got to be at least 20min with these temps - you need to burn off the condensate.

The trip on which the gasket appears to have failed was about 75 minutes. The night before, my commute in from my mom’s place was 15-20 minutes, with most of it at highway speeds. I found plenty of frozen mayo in the valve cover and the PCV hose attachment; I’ll try to open the S/C to get at the PCV valve and clean it, too. Also, I found oil in a few of the spark plug wells, consistent with VC gasket failure.

Besides a repeat of this debacle, my biggest worry is oil damage to hoses and belts. I’ll replace the accessory belt, which got oiled. As for the coolant hoses, they’re fairly new, so I’m going to cross my fingers on wiping them down and keeping them.

as for location - the drug bin really is a great spot for ease of access, and ease of mounting - but the hose runs are fairly long. i will likely mount the one in the 335 directly over the headers - you want as much residual heat to keep that thing warm. also, the 0ºC thermoswitch and 5w silicone heating pad that i used before, i will re-use on the 42draftdesigns can - it just worked so well....

From what I’ve read, it’s the cool surface areas in the catch can that cause the oil/fuel vapors to condense; therefore, a cooler mounting spot is preferred in order to facilitate air/oil separation. As for the longer hose runs, 1/2” NPT tubing will take up less space in a crowded engine bay, and could be easily insulated if necessary. I like the thermoswitch and heating pad idea; it’s simple and effective—quite clever, really.

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slater

01-26-2019, 04:40 PM

The trip on which the gasket appears to have failed was about 75 minutes. The night before, my commute in from my mom’s place was 15-20 minutes, with most of it at highway speeds. I found plenty of frozen mayo in the valve cover and the PCV hose attachment; I’ll try to open the S/C to get at the PCV valve and clean it, too. Also, I found oil in a few of the spark plug wells, consistent with VC gasket failure.

wow, that's nuts. 75 minutes should be plenty... i wonder if your PCV froze after the 15-20min drive.

From what I’ve read, it’s the cool surface areas in the catch can that cause the oil/fuel vapors to condense; therefore, a cooler mounting spot is preferred in order to facilitate air/oil separation. As for the longer hose runs, 1/2” NPT tubing will take up less space in a crowded engine bay, and could be easily insulated if necessary. I like the thermoswitch and heating pad idea; it’s simple and effective—quite clever, really.

thanks, but i can't take all the credit for it - my father lent his (professional) engineering brain on the thermoswitch idea after i brought up the heating pad idea. it is most definitely simple - and it worked for the two winters i ran it, in plenty of -20C weather.

as for the cooler mounting spot - the G.A.S. CCV sits right atop the oil filter, and it works phenomenally at evaporating the vapors. to my mind, the hotter, the better - those vapors need to evaporate.

when you buy tubing... maybe sure you get oil-friendly tubing that is very, very stiff - regular heater hose will most definitely collapse (BTDT on my first test rig)! check our mcmaster-carr for serious hose.

MsRN

01-26-2019, 08:24 PM

wow, that's nuts. 75 minutes should be plenty... i wonder if your PCV froze after the 15-20min drive.

That’s what I’m guessing, anyway.

thanks, but i can't take all the credit for it - my father lent his (professional) engineering brain on the thermoswitch idea after i brought up the heating pad idea. it is most definitely simple - and it worked for the two winters i ran it, in plenty of -20C weather.

Then thanks to you AND your father! It’s on my list to use this winter, which stands to be a cold one.

as for the cooler mounting spot - the G.A.S. CCV sits right atop the oil filter, and it works phenomenally at evaporating the vapors. to my mind, the hotter, the better - those vapors need to evaporate.

You may be right; I may be crazy. Still, I’m going to try the ‘drug box’ and see if it works. Report to follow!

when you buy tubing... maybe sure you get oil-friendly tubing that is very, very stiff - regular heater hose will most definitely collapse (BTDT on my first test rig)! check our mcmaster-carr for serious hose.

Thank you! I’ll certainly check that site out; otherwise, 42 Draft Designs also sells hose.

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Sockethead

01-27-2019, 07:41 AM

MsRN

01-27-2019, 10:04 AM

I haven't looked into the GAS CCV... does that drain back or do you disassemble to clean/drain? I may revisit the drub box location, I liked how it looked and fit in there. I'm interested to see what you come up with, Michele...

This is how I did mine...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170415/365d156c33b829b78df3e52c154023b7.jpg

I’ll take pictures once it’s in; I just ordered it with NPT hose and fittings, which should be a little less bulky.

I looked at the GAS CCV; they have a finalized design for forced induction, which they say they’d produce if enough people expressed interest. I’m going to express interest; perhaps you should, too.

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holyc0w

01-27-2019, 01:01 PM

Sort of off-topic, but I think my engine has been heating up faster with the GAS CCV.

Sockethead

01-28-2019, 06:10 AM

I looked at the GAS CCV; they have a finalized design for forced induction, which they say they’d produce if enough people expressed interest. I’m going to express interest; perhaps you should, too.

Hmm... someone needs to post about this in the FI forum on e46f... I'm sure there would be some interest over there... not a lot of FI cars here

johnrando

01-28-2019, 07:48 PM

First, sorry to hear that happened. 2nd, a bit confused, if you go FI no need for CCV, so what is the product?

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MsRN

01-28-2019, 08:02 PM

First, sorry to hear that happened. 2nd, a bit confused, if you go FI no need for CCV, so what is the product?

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John, I’m buying an oil catch can because even with FI the car retains a PCV valve (in the S/C) and a PCV hose between the valve cover and the S/C. My suspicion is that the valve froze up with the ‘mayo’/gunk, causing positive pressure in the crankcase and leading to the valve cover gasket failure. If I can eliminate the gunk before it gets to the PCV valve then the chances of the valve freezing become much lower.

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johnrando

01-28-2019, 08:57 PM

Ah, OK. Thanks for the explanation. Hope it goes well.

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Sockethead

01-29-2019, 04:52 AM

John, might be something to think about since you have a TS too. I have mayo in my system and it’s pretty warm here...it’s pretty simple to pull the hose at the PCV and check.

slater

01-29-2019, 09:39 AM

John, I’m buying an oil catch can because even with FI the car retains a PCV valve (in the S/C) and a PCV hose between the valve cover and the S/C. My suspicion is that the valve froze up with the ‘mayo’/gunk, causing positive pressure in the crankcase and leading to the valve cover gasket failure. If I can eliminate the gunk before it gets to the PCV valve then the chances of the valve freezing become much lower.

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can you post a picture of the PCV hose routing on your motor? just thinking about BMW's 'fix' for this on the E90... well, the CCV was inside the valve cover, but they also have a wire heater that wraps around the hoses... perhaps that would be an easy solution here. although that doesn't help you trap any oil condensate and keep it from entering the intake/SC, which is pretty important. :)

johnrando

01-29-2019, 07:47 PM

John, might be something to think about since you have a TS too. I have mayo in my system and it’s pretty warm here...it’s pretty simple to pull the hose at the PCV and check.Ok, thx. I will.

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MsRN

01-30-2019, 06:18 AM

can you post a picture of the PCV hose routing on your motor? just thinking about BMW's 'fix' for this on the E90... well, the CCV was inside the valve cover, but they also have a wire heater that wraps around the hoses... perhaps that would be an easy solution here. although that doesn't help you trap any oil condensate and keep it from entering the intake/SC, which is pretty important. :)

Just got over a bad migraine. I’ll take pics this morning.

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MsRN

01-30-2019, 04:17 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/7e0a4eb342cf4b4ccf97f9dd11eebd54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/2e2ce28ed6cd32bab3a69a7fc2c71e18.jpg

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Sockethead

01-31-2019, 06:42 AM

Hmm, My car doesn't look like that.... what is that can in the back? Is that your bypass valve?

MsRN

01-31-2019, 10:13 AM

Hmm, My car doesn't look like that.... what is that can in the back? Is that your bypass valve?

I honestly don’t know; I’lll have to do some research.

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MsRN

02-01-2019, 08:19 PM

Waiting for the catch can to ship; that won’t be before early next week at the earliest. :(

Still, now that the weather is practically balmy (single digits above zero), I can at least get into the garage and clean/repair everything else—that is, once I’m done with my long work weekend...

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MsRN

02-15-2019, 11:40 AM

Three weeks after ordering, the 42 Draft Designs can and hoses are supposed to arrive next week Tuesday. Slater—out of curiosity—where did you source your 5W heating pad and 0C thermoswitch?

Oh—and I still have no idea what that can in the back is—I’ll have to trace the hose back to it’s source.

johnrando

02-15-2019, 05:12 PM

Keep us posted

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Sockethead

02-16-2019, 04:55 AM

Oh—and I still have no idea what that can in the back is—I’ll have to trace the hose back to it’s source.

After looking closer at your picture, that's the bypass valve. It looks like the vacuum line is piped in differently than mine. That's what threw me off.

Looks like the side cover for the for the DME/ master cylinder box is missing. Did you take that out or did the original owner leave it out? You might want to put that back in since you drive it in winter. It's an F'n bitch to get back in because of the supercharger. I spent many hours cussing at it but it will go back in.

MsRN

02-16-2019, 10:53 AM

After looking closer at your picture, that's the bypass valve. It looks like the vacuum line is piped in differently than mine. That's what threw me off.

Looks like the side cover for the for the DME/ master cylinder box is missing. Did you take that out or did the original owner leave it out? You might want to put that back in since you drive it in winter. It's an F'n bitch to get back in because of the supercharger. I spent many hours cussing at it but it will go back in.

Yes, the side cover is missing; I broke the original cover removing it to try and access the starter from the top. I have a new one, but have thus far been unsuccessful in shoehorning it into place. What exactly is it’s function—heat shielding for the DME/master cylinder?

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Sockethead

02-16-2019, 11:14 AM

yea, heat shielding and weather protection. I took me a long time to get it in but it will go in eventually. I wish I could tell you some trick to get it back in place but I got nothing...

MsRN

02-16-2019, 11:30 AM

yea, heat shielding and weather protection. I took me a long time to get it in but it will go in eventually. I wish I could tell you some trick to get it back in place but I got nothing...

In my case, I’m going to ask the dealership to pull the wiper arms so I can move the lower windshield gasket out of the way first. That should give me a little wiggle room.

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Sockethead

02-16-2019, 01:53 PM

Come to think of it, I did remove the cowl too.

MsRN

02-18-2019, 07:44 PM

I put the car back together today, just in time to drive the 70 miles to my current nursing assignment. Besides the smell of residual oil burning off the cats, everything ran smoothly. I popped the hood at work just to double-check; clean and dry. Tomorrow the oil catch can arrives; I’ll install that, change out my oil and filter, and keep my fingers tightly crossed.

Thanks to all who reassured me! Besides the disgusting oily mess in my engine bay, I seem to have been spared any real damage. And getting back behind the wheel of this car is truly a joy!!

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johnrando

02-19-2019, 05:36 PM

That is great news!

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MsRN

02-19-2019, 06:39 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/297664cd8cf93a1a528fa3de7eb1f24f.jpgThe catch can arrived today! Apparently 42 had a promotion going on—a free upgrade to stainless (I expected the bottom of the can to be black anodized or powder coated). Next steps—find a suitable mounting point, attach the compression fittings to the ends of the hoses, check to see if my hose runs will work, trim back the current hoses and install everything. Pics to follow!

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johnrando

02-19-2019, 07:25 PM

Good looking device

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danewilson77

02-19-2019, 07:52 PM

Well done
Good work
Great sticktoitness

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MsRN

02-19-2019, 08:10 PM

Good looking device

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They do nice work, don’t they?

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MsRN

02-19-2019, 08:24 PM

Well done
Good work
Great sticktoitness

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Thank you, Dane. It’s not perfect by any means; twelve years of daily driving (half of those in the Snow Belt) have taken their toll. Still, it’s an amazing car, and the best I’ve ever had the privilege to drive (that includes a Porsche Macan, which was no slouch).

I still regularly feel dread when I have large-ish car repairs to tackle; but taken in small bites, I eventually get through the repairs. I think I’ll hire out for the CMP subframe reinforcements; those involve welding, which I’m afraid I’d mess up. And I’ll let my alignment pro handle the new suspension install; but I have plenty of other projects on my plate, including other Bimmer fixes that aren’t quite as technically demanding.

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ELCID86

02-21-2019, 02:44 PM

MsRN

02-21-2019, 06:34 PM

I love the catch can, knitting and lunch box! The well versed nurse! ;-)

(I bet if you took it to work ppl would think it was your coffee cup)

You know, the baffles in the catch can remind me of a percolator basket. The dipstick becomes a stir stick...the female threaded ports become handle attachment points.

Of course, not many $250 coffee cups require me to go to Northern Tool and buy an NPT pipe tap and die set, either. The 1/2” NPT stainless bung wouldn’t let me thread in an adaptor beyond four threads of depth until I re-tapped it; the aluminum adaptors and the port in the aluminum cover were perfectly threaded out of the box. Were I the guessing sort, I’d imagine that someone chased the threads before welding the bung in place, but didn’t re-check the fit afterward. I’m going to call and request a new adaptor tomorrow, to replace the one I stupidly tried to force (it’s in, but isn’t very pretty anymore). My fingers are also the worse for that bit of foolishness; slipping wrenches, sharp threads and intact skin don’t mix well, I’m afraid...

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johnrando

02-21-2019, 06:45 PM

Ouch

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MsRN

02-25-2019, 07:47 AM

Fellow Mafiosi: I am becoming frustrated. I pulled into my mom’s driveway after working overnight, and the low oil light came on as I stopped. My engine bay is—as I feared—covered in oil AGAIN. I was unable to complete catch can installation before weather turned colder, but hoped the above-zero temperatures would prove gentler to the PCV system. I’m wondering if I need to replace this brand-new gasket, or can keep it and just eliminate the PCV obstruction, put in the catch can, clean up the oil and drive on. Thoughts?

On the same topic, I’ve also concluded that my efforts to decrease engine temperatures (higher-capacity Mishimoto radiator, Zionsville mechanical racing thermostat) appear to have increased the cars susceptibility to PCV valve freeze-up. In support of my conclusion, I note that this is the first winter in thirteen years of driving E46 cars that I’ve experienced this problem. All three of my BMWs (including this one) have regularly experienced weather this cold and colder without problem. Besides the cars age, the only other salient variables appear to be the new radiator and thermostat. Feel free to disagree with my hypothesis; I’m interested to hear any ideas you might have.

Oh—and someone put two new dents in my car. Color me cranky this morning!

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johnrando

02-25-2019, 11:07 PM

Oh no, sorry to hear re oil and dents... sux! Sorry no advice to offer re catch can.

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MsRN

02-26-2019, 01:28 AM

A few hours’ sleep—once I could calm my brain—helped clarify my situation. I’ve put roughly $4000 into this vehicle so far to resurrect it, with the goal of keeping it running 5-10 years at least. I’ve a new gasket on hold at my dealership; I’ll pick it up (using Mom’s car), haul the needed tools and tarp to Mom’s garage, replace the gasket, top off the oil, clean out the PCV valve (if I can figure out how to remove it), finish the catch can install, and order a gel heating pad and thermoswitch from Amazon. Then I’ll drive it home and change the oil and clean up the current oily mess, get new belts, and install the new hood insulation. If that doesn’t fix it, I’ll reinstall the stock thermostat (which I have), which will run the engine hotter. Should the problem persist, I’ll re-evaluate, and perhaps acquire a winter-competent new car this summer/fall. Then I’ll either keep this car for three-season use, or part it out—but I’d prefer not to do the latter. Or maybe—just maybe—I’ll get a CWP-equipped 325iT and transplant the ZHP motor/parts and S/C into it.

Either that, or I’ll buy a Subaru...

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MsRN

03-02-2019, 05:34 PM

Update time! Based on the oil spray pattern and clean spark plug wells, it seemed more likely to me that the leak had occurred not at the gasket, but at the juncture between the valve cover and the ventilation hose. I disconnected the hose from the valve cover and from the supercharger, then poured denatured alcohol in one end of the hose. No alcohol exited the other side. At that point I decided to install my new catch can, then cut the blocked hose down to size and cleaned out the ice inside it. As I was running short on time and lacked two necessary hose clamps, I stopped for the night. Today I finished running the hoses for the catch can, replaced the coil packs, vanity cover and cabin filter, added a quart of oil and crossed my fingers. The engine ran well; I could detect no leaks at the new hose couplings; no oil sprayed out anywhere. My hour drive home was uneventful and no oil leakage occurred. What’s more, the engine seems to have better acceleration in sixth (though that could just be relative to my mom’s Kia, which I’d recently driven) than before.

Next up: changing out the oil, cleaning up the remaining leaked oil, and perhaps shortening the catch can hoses (I made them a bit long). Also, adding a catch can heater and thermoswitch.

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Will

03-02-2019, 09:40 PM

MsRN

03-02-2019, 09:51 PM

Glad to hear you got the problems fixed - great job on not giving up. Did you start noticing the cooling issues after the Mishimoto radiator? One of the more experienced guys on m3forum had poor experiences with their cooling capacity...basically it was worse. (http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=484390&highlight=mishimoto+radiator+hot)

Good to see another RN with a zhp. Which specialty/patient population?

I actually think the Mishimoto radiator and Zionsville Racing thermostat run the engine cooler; then again, it’s not yet summer.

I’m a critical-care nurse; I mostly work in ICUs, though I also have three years of ED experience.

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johnrando

03-02-2019, 10:03 PM

Great to hear you likely found the culprit! It is funny how fast our cars feel after driving other 'regular' cars. :)

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MsRN

03-29-2019, 04:51 PM

Great to hear you likely found the culprit! It is funny how fast our cars feel after driving other 'regular' cars. :)

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John, the car seems even faster with the upgrades. Since changing out the radiator and thermostat, and upgrading the plugs, I’ve had no more misfires. It may be my imagination, but it seems to pull stronger, even in 6th.

The catch can has been working quite well; my sole concern is that I’ve already had to empty it, as it collected 6-8 ounces of ‘gunk’ in less than 1000 miles. I’m unsure if that level of fluid collection is normal for FI engines or not; on NA engines I seem to recall large amounts of catch can waste being a point of concern.

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