Rear LCA install

[nsk040]

Continuing my refresh, I'm working on some rear control arm items. I have upper outer bearings, lower outer bushings, and lower control arms (which come with the inner bushing pre-pressed in).

I have a shop that will just bill me actual hours to get this stuff installed. It sounds like the two outer bushings/bearings are pretty easy with the right tool, however the driver's side LCA sounds like a pretty big pain with having to move the diff to be able to access the inner nut. Anyone have any experience with how long this all takes?

[PetesZ]

I have not done this yet. And will be interested in the results.

I was looking at dropping the entire subframe.

[nsk040]

I have not done this yet. And will be interested in the results.

I was looking at dropping the entire subframe.

I was thinking about doing all the subframe bushings as well, but the shop assures me they are all solid. I'm tiring of replacing stuff under the logic that "part xyz tends to fail at your mileage" as this has been an expensive and ineffective way to solve problems. So I may just do the outer LCA bushings/bearings only before moving onto LCAs, inner bushings/bearings, and perhaps diff bushings as well. Any wisdom out there on best way to proceed?

[PetesZ]

My understanding is that most of the wear is the lca.

I just looked at mine when I swapped the differential. They all seemed fine. I plan to do the lca here soon and add limiters. Have no decided to go the full poly or spherical.

[nsk040]

My understanding is that most of the wear is the lca.

What part of the LCA takes the brunt of the wear - inner bushing, outer bushing, the LCA itself? Not sure that I follow...

[PetesZ]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/55-SUSPEN-Replacing_Your_Rear_Trailing_Arm_Bushing/55-SUSPEN-Replacing_Your_Rear_Trailing_Arm_Bushing.htm

The rear trailing arm bushings

[ZHPizza]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/55-SUSPEN-Replacing_Your_Rear_Trailing_Arm_Bushing/55-SUSPEN-Replacing_Your_Rear_Trailing_Arm_Bushing.htm

The rear trailing arm bushingsU gotta go spherical for the track car. The rear is so damn planted with them. Moogs are $17 ea too!

[nsk040]

Has anyone done their LCAs? Curious just how much of a pain the driver's side one is to get in with having to move the diff.

[Sockethead]

Yea, you have to move the diff. I did mine last spring. Common problem is the lower bolt seizing in the bushing, making it impossible to adjust. and the fact that they are so flimsy, they usually get bent

In my experience, It's impossible to really evaluate the diff bushings with the diff in place. Both sets of the bushings I replaced in my car were torn but was impossible to see that with the diff in place because you can't really see the tears unless you flex the bushing.

If you go to this page of my build thread, as you scroll down, you can see what I mean about the bushings tearing. also there is a pic of me about to put the diff back in where you can see where the two upper control arm bolts are.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18649-The-it-was-supposed-to-be-just-an-oil-pan-gasket-project/page24

[nsk040]

Thanks. Perhaps best to do the three diff bushings by the time the diff is loosened to get the LCAs in.

[Sockethead]

Well, you have to completely remove the diff to do the bushings but by the time you unbolt enough stuff to get to the control arm bolt, you're half way there...

[sillieidiot]

isn't the rear control arm easy the replace? I remember replacing it and all you do is push up the diff and then take the bolts out. Takes a little longer on jackstands. But it's like a 30 min job to replace the arms on the lift.

[Sockethead]

I did mine when I was taking out the diff for the bushings.
I know there are some you tube videos, maybe see how others did it on there...

[Boris3]

Just did the "salad tongs" on mine. Originals with 157k and driver's side was bent so I just replaced them both. Pretty easy DIY. I had stopped into a dealership to get the latest passenger airbag recall done and they quoted me around $475 to do just the driver's side. Driver's side is a bit of a pain on jackstands with shifting the diff but not that bad. Passenger side goes much faster. Mark the orientation of the cam washers before you remove to get the alignment close enough for the drive to get things aligned.

This video was helpful for visualizing the basic idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V206BJ8DzAk&t=717s

DIY's here and on e46Fanatics were also helpful.

Picture is of the old driver's side and new one:

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