Z4 FCABs?, new Konis, and...?

[Mendoteach]

I just replaced the RTABs, shock mounts and put some new Koni Actives on the ZHP this weekend. I am really liking how it's transformed the car. The car has 104k and they had never been done before. Now, unfortunately, the front feels bad by comparison (the FCABs were done at 65k), so I am going to do the front up. I have the Konis, and need to order FACBs and reinforcement plates. Seems like Z4s are the way to go. More caster should make for some more steering weight and straight line stability. Anybody have thoughts on these and anything else I should to to freshen-up the front end?

New user, but lurked for years before I bought my first ZHP a year and a half ago.

[holyc0w]

Replace the strut mounts with Lemforder strut mounts, and inspect the swaybar endlinks (check for torn boots, leaking grease). Also inspect control arms and tie rods.

[cornercarver]

I did poly FCABs and it made a noticeable difference in the front end; much more precise and direct. Now the rear feels sloppy by comparison.

[PetesZ]

Put a sway bar on it. Turner, hotchkis, hr. Strut bar works wonders also.

[cornercarver]

Put a sway bar on it. Turner, hotchkis, hr. Strut bar works wonders also.
I did that too (Hotchkis F&R) and it helped quite a bit, but be warned; bumpy roads suck with stiffer bars.

[Vas]

Z4m is the way to go with the FCAB

[Mendoteach]

Replace the strut mounts with Lemforder strut mounts, and inspect the swaybar endlinks (check for torn boots, leaking grease). Also inspect control arms and tie rods.

Great advice. I'll have a look this evening at everything you mentioned. I have already added the Lemforder mounts to cart. They are what I used in the rear for shock mounts.

[Mendoteach]

Thanks everybody for the responses. What a great community. Cost $20 to join, but, what a bargain!


Put a sway bar on it. Turner, hotchkis, hr. Strut bar works wonders also.

I sure would like to drive a car with a different sway bar on it. The roads around here are crappy, but they've been getting better at least!


I did that too (Hotchkis F&R) and it helped quite a bit, but be warned; bumpy roads suck with stiffer bars.

That's what I am afraid off. Maybe I'll do the front soft parts and struts, and then try a sway in a few months.


I did poly FCABs and it made a noticeable difference in the front end; much more precise and direct. Now the rear feels sloppy by comparison.

I would love to drive a car with poly bushings in it. If anybody is heading up 101 north of SF on a drive someday maybe we could hook up and I could see first hand. I don't personally know anybody else who has a ZHP. Some claim wonders and others don't like them.


Z4m is the way to go with the FCAB

I think that's what I am doing. I think this car could use some extra castor. Car seems a bit overly willing to steer–a bit nervous, and I would prefer a bit more steering weight. Is there a poly Z4 on the market that doesn't make NVH go up too much?

[Vas]

Stick with the rubber. They are solid and not liquid filled like the factory units.

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[ZHPizza]

Put a sway bar on it. Turner, hotchkis, hr. Strut bar works wonders also.Also M3 or Z4M bar will fit and be cheap af

OP the driveability issues sound like alignment (toe out). If the FCABs are trashed then the front tires will toe out at speed and feel twitchy on the highway. New bushings with a touch of toe in will make it very stable in a straight line.

[Mendoteach]

You all have some gorgeous looking cars. Really impressive. Mine is pretty darn clean. Once I get some mechanical stuff sorted I'll work on getting it looking somewhat like all of yours.


Also M3 or Z4M bar will fit and be cheap af

OP the driveability issues sound like alignment (toe out). If the FCABs are trashed then the front tires will toe out at speed and feel twitchy on the highway. New bushings with a touch of toe in will make it very stable in a straight line.

Definitely could be an alignment. It wandered and tramlined horribly until I replaced the front tires. Now it's just a wee bit nervous. I will get an alignment after I replace the shocks and bushings.


Stick with the rubber. They are solid and not liquid filled like the factory units.


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Are the Z4 bushings oil filled or solid rubber?

[Vas]

You all have some gorgeous looking cars. Really impressive. Mine is pretty darn clean. Once I get some mechanical stuff sorted I'll work on getting it looking somewhat like all of yours.



Definitely could be an alignment. It wandered and tramlined horribly until I replaced the front tires. Now it's just a wee bit nervous. I will get an alignment after I replace the shocks and bushings.



Are the Z4 bushings oil filled or solid rubber?

Solid Rubber

[d-rod]

I’m going through a suspension refresh myself.
I already did new Koni FSDs and have new control arms coming in and redoing all bushing/ball joints for rear trailing arm.
You might as well replace the sway bar end links while you’re in there. One of mine was torn at only 9Xk miles
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180925/963f918459dd07860943c32bba854bba.jpg


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[John in VA]

Sorry for not searching or remembering, but what is the M or Z4 front suspension part that is often recommended but ends up putting the wheel/tire forward in the wheel opening vs. original? I'm all for "while you're in there" upgrades, but this looks strange, to me. Thanks in advance!

[holyc0w]

Sorry for not searching or remembering, but what is the M or Z4 front suspension part that is often recommended but ends up putting the wheel/tire forward in the wheel opening vs. original? I'm all for "while you're in there" upgrades, but this looks strange, to me. Thanks in advance!

Z4 FCABs

I believe M3 FCABs are centered, so they would be similar to stock.

[Mendoteach]

It is my understanding that the Z4 bushing adds a bit of caster. That will increase the the wheels "self-centering" tendencies and increase the steering weight some.

[Mendoteach]

I’m going through a suspension refresh myself.
I already did new Koni FSDs and have new control arms coming in and redoing all bushing/ball joints for rear trailing arm.
You might as well replace the sway bar end links while you’re in there. One of mine was torn at only 9Xk miles
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180925/963f918459dd07860943c32bba854bba.jpg


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I'll have a closer look at the sway bar end links.