Turn Key, Car won’t start

[BADCLOWN]

Need some help guys:

This problem has been going on for the last few weeks but just a moment ago was the last straw. No matter which key I use this happens: I put the key in and turn it/hold to start and get nothing. The cluster lights up, the fuel is priming, it’s not a battery or starter issue. The last two weeks, I would simply take the key out and put it back in and turn the key resulting in a start. Just now: I tried both keys repeatedly (10-15 times each) and nothing. Luckily I got it to start.


Any idea what the issue is?

[3ZHP]

Starter!

The wife had the same issue on her 2006 330CIc Sport and it was diagnose by the dealer as a starter. It’s a pretty big job to do and expensive to have done.


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[TKZHP]

Could be a EWS problem. I had a similar issue...would turn the key, everything comes on, but no start. No cranking, and I believe no clicking. Sometimes it started right away, other times it may have taken 2, or 3, or 5 attempts. And sometimes it wouldnt start at all after 15 tries...there was no pattern. Anyways, my mechanic went nuts trying to find a solution, tested the alternator, the battery, reflashed both my keys. Turns out there was an issue with the EWS, i believe he had to redownload it. This is pretty uncommon, but if youre sure its not a battery or starter issue, I would consider looking into this

[BADCLOWN]

TKZHP: that sounds similar to my symptoms. Started doing this out of nowhere. So you had your ECU reflashed?

[ZHP_Brandon]

Had a similar issue, luckily I had the plastic Valet/Plastic key and I had to drive with both keys at all times.

If it is your starter, go with Bosch I cheaper out and have a horrid whine coming from mine everytime it starts.


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[BADCLOWN]

IF it’s the starter, which one of FCPEuros website is it, some have different flange sizes?

Could the ignition switch cause the issue as well?

My Indy suggested starter, ignition switch, CPS in that order of “that’s probably it”

I just had to go out to it to start it up and go somewhere and it wouldn’t start after two turns. On the third turn, I held it and pumped the clutch and it started. Does that sound more like the CPS?

[TKZHP]

If it started while you pumped the clutch then count my suggestion out

[BADCLOWN]

If gotten it to start 2-3 times by pumping the clutch. Other times I’ll just keep turning the key (taking it out, reinserting it) and get nothing, orher times I’ll try the key a few times and it will work as normal, and sometimes it’ll start first try no issues.

[Karl Lazlo]

Is the car coded to disable (defeat) the clutch interlock? Pumping the clutch prior to start makes me think the switch may be wonky...

[ELCID86]

Is the car coded to disable (defeat) the clutch interlock? Pumping the clutch prior to start makes me think the switch may be wonky...

That’s what I was thinking.

If it is the starter, consider YourMechanic.com. Best money I’ve spent on my car. The tech worked in my garage for almost 6 hours! (He did use Bosch).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180706/2d0b757160765b2f88fdb869a9b8645d.jpg

[BADCLOWN]

I got in it today and it fired right up to run an errand and then fired up again coming home. I’m just going to hold off on it until my Indy is done with his “no side work summer vacay” is over in August and have him diagnose it as well as install some other parts/to do items.

Such a weird intermittent issue.

[nextelbuddy]

im guessing its your clutch switch. if yo had PASoft you could set your EWS to manual instead of the Automatic setting (all US cars are set to automatic in EWS which requires the clutch to be depressed to start) setting to manual means you dont need to push the clutch in so you are bypassing the switch in the clutch slave cylinder.

the switch is just a magnetic switch and they can go bad.

another test is if it wont start... then push start the car... roll the car with clutch in in 1st or 2nd gear and let the clutch out and see if it starts.

if it does then its either your clutch switch, starter or a bad ground... check the ground wire on the passenger side that goes from the engine mount arm to the fram rail. mine was loose causing the same issue.

[ZHPizza]

im guessing its your clutch switch. if yo had PASoft you could set your EWS to manual instead of the Automatic setting (all US cars are set to automatic in EWS which requires the clutch to be depressed to start) setting to manual means you dont need to push the clutch in so you are bypassing the switch in the clutch slave cylinder.

the switch is just a magnetic switch and they can go bad.

another test is if it wont start... then push start the car... roll the car with clutch in in 1st or 2nd gear and let the clutch out and see if it starts.

if it does then its either your clutch switch, starter or a bad ground... check the ground wire on the passenger side that goes from the engine mount arm to the fram rail. mine was loose causing the same issue.+1 this also makes it possible to install a clutch stop

[Sockethead]

Personally, I'll never bypass the clutch switch... I go between the automatic and clutch cars too many times... Too much potential to start the car without pushing in the clutch but definitely good for TS

[BADCLOWN]

I’m nearly positive it’s the CPS based off reading this and what I’m seeing.