Totaled my ZHP--what should I do?

[usinjin]

Mafia, I write you today with the heaviest of hearts. Coming home from an incredibly long and exhausting trip, I took a curve too fast on a hill after it had just started to rain (in my own neighborhood of all places), and I spun out and hit a tree. I haven't gotten anyone to look at it yet, but I am positive that I've totaled it.

32838

Firstly, I am completely fine. Not so much as a bruise. What hurts the most is my pure idiocy. I feel unworthy to have ever driven such a beautiful machine, only to destroy it in an instant by driving irresponsibly.

I do not have collision insurance--only liability. The car is a total loss.

I write you today asking for advice. I'm a student still and simply am hoping to recover what I can from the vehicle in terms of monetary value.

It had just shy of 120,xxx miles on it.

The car is sitting at my house currently (the tow from 100 feet down the street to my house was $250.. -_-). Obviously the frame of the car is bent, the fans/radiator system is smashed, but from what I can tell, the damage may not extend inwards further than that, so the engine may be okay.

What would something like this be worth, and what might be the best course of action for me to take to recoup some fraction of its value at least? Get offers from local BMW shops? Attempt to part it out? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Any words would be appreciated, as a matter of fact. I've never wrecked a car before, and to wreck my wonderful ZHP made me feel like utter horsesh*t.

Thanks in advance.

[fredo]

Very sorry to hear the news. Glad you are ok. Are you in Austin TX ? I remember your screen name for some reason.

You will get more money if you part your car. However this could be time consuming and as a student you may not have that luxury.

GL, sir.

[danewilson77]

You may be able to recover a few thousand via part out.

Rims and tires + interior could fetch ~$2000 alone, depending on condition.

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[Vas]

Sorry to hear. With liability coverage, your best bet is to with sell the car as is or part it out if you have the time and place for it.

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[slater]

bummer - sorry to hear. but glad you are OK with nothing but a bruised ego. :)

with only liability coverage, your options are limited:

1. keep and fix
2. part out
3. sell as a whole

KEEP AND FIX
you mentioned the frame is likely bent - well, you don't know this until you start to disassemble. since you hit right in the middle, i think your chances are as good as they could be that it is actually OK (might be talking out my arse here). if i were you, i would start disassembling to assess the damage. sourcing parts - especially from here on the forum - should be pretty easy. you could get off as easily as just the cosmetic bits you see, plus the radiator support, radiator, expansion tank. but you gotta get that hood up and bumper cover off to assess.

PART OUT
i've done this before, a few times. it is super time consuming, but you can recoup some major money, and quickly. if your car is a 6-speed, man.... it's a great donor platform for a ZHP Touring build. ;) but seriously, depending on spec - you could do OK here.

SELL AS A WHOLE
clearly the easiest scenario, but you're going to take a major loss here. heck, if i had the time i would buy it (depending on spec) to build another ZHP Touring.



i'm hoping to opt to keep and fix! :) :cheers

[usinjin]

Very sorry to hear the news. Glad you are ok. Are you in Austin TX ? I remember your screen name for some reason.

You will get more money if you part your car. However this could be time consuming and as a student you may not have that luxury.

GL, sir.

Thanks fredo--I am in the Buda area :) I remember you being up in RR?


bummer - sorry to hear. but glad you are OK with nothing but a bruised ego. :)

with only liability coverage, your options are limited:

1. keep and fix
2. part out
3. sell as a whole

KEEP AND FIX
you mentioned the frame is likely bent - well, you don't know this until you start to disassemble. since you hit right in the middle, i think your chances are as good as they could be that it is actually OK (might be talking out my arse here). if i were you, i would start disassembling to assess the damage. sourcing parts - especially from here on the forum - should be pretty easy. you could get off as easily as just the cosmetic bits you see, plus the radiator support, radiator, expansion tank. but you gotta get that hood up and bumper cover off to assess.

PART OUT
i've done this before, a few times. it is super time consuming, but you can recoup some major money, and quickly. if your car is a 6-speed, man.... it's a great donor platform for a ZHP Touring build. ;) but seriously, depending on spec - you could do OK here.

SELL AS A WHOLE
clearly the easiest scenario, but you're going to take a major loss here. heck, if i had the time i would buy it (depending on spec) to build another ZHP Touring.



i'm hoping to opt to keep and fix! :) :cheers

Thanks for this, this gives me hope. There was a moment right after I knocked the tree that I was pretty sure everything was lost--however, on closer inspection this morning, you might be more right. There appears to be no damage to any part of the car other than square on the front (I actually took out a large metal low-water crossing sign box as well, it's miraculous that I did no damage to either fender). The damage may not extend past the radiator. I'm going to attempt to remove the hood later today, I'll post a pic if I can.

I do hope that I can fix it--if possible I will go that route.

[fredo]

We are almost neighbors. I'm in South Austin, Manchaca Rd at 1626. :hi

[usinjin]

Also, the car is the 5AT.

[usinjin]

We are almost neighbors. I'm in South Austin, Manchaca Rd at 1626. :hi

Oh! Indeed you are close--I am at 1626 and Brodie.

[slater]

Thanks for this, this gives me hope. There was a moment right after I knocked the tree that I was pretty sure everything was lost--however, on closer inspection this morning, you might be more right. There appears to be no damage to any part of the car other than square on the front (I actually took out a large metal low-water crossing sign box as well, it's miraculous that I did no damage to either fender). The damage may not extend past the radiator. I'm going to attempt to remove the hood later today, I'll post a pic if I can.

I do hope that I can fix it--if possible I will go that route.


Also, the car is the 5AT.

cool. looking forward to seeing the pics.

let's get this thing back on the road! :)

[ZHPizza]

cool. looking forward to seeing the pics.

let's get this thing back on the road! :)+1 we have enough knowledge here (mostly with Peterman) to be able to study some pics, gauge the extent of the damage, and provide a path forward

[Newjack]

+1 we have enough knowledge here (mostly with Peterman) to be able to study some pics, gauge the extent of the damage, and provide a path forward

Someone call the 7 foot Russian we all love

Dariooooo

[usinjin]

Ouch. Have a gander:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Dy04zeQt-ximY-iK25pR40vKGPS-TD-m?usp=sharing

First thought: Eccchhhhh, this looks pretty bad.

After pulling the hood off: Maybe it's okay. Might just need bumper, radiator assembly, fan assembly, expansion tank, few other things.

It doesn't appear that any of the pulleys were hit, with the exception of the fan. The finned bit on the base appears bent, I'm hoping the shaft is fine.

But then I saw something perhaps more troubling--images IMG_4747 and IMG_4757. That part in the middle, is that a rail? It appears to have separated from the housing next to it. That worries me.

I'm hoping these images can help somewhat. I can take more if necessary.

[slater]

i hate to say it, but from those pics it sure looks like the driver's side frame rail/leg is bent inwards. not only is there that separation that you pointed out, but the radiator support sheared off at the mounting points on the driver's side.

that could still be fixable, but you'd need a frame-straightening specialist to do that.

[usinjin]

i hate to say it, but from those pics it sure looks like the driver's side frame rail/leg is bent inwards. not only is there that separation that you pointed out, but the radiator support sheared off at the mounting points on the driver's side.

that could still be fixable, but you'd need a frame-straightening specialist to do that.

This sounds rather game-over. :(

[Don Adolfo]

Glad to hear you are okay. Lots of good advice here. I hope you are able to fix it.

Any lesson learned to share? Other than don’t speed on a wet curve, any specifics?


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[ELCID86]

I’ve always heard a most accident LSI happen within a few miles of Home. Sorry you are part of that statistic. If you have the time and space, part it out.

[usinjin]

Glad to hear you are okay. Lots of good advice here. I hope you are able to fix it.

Any lesson learned to share? Other than don’t speed on a wet curve, any specifics?


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Interestingly enough, I wasn’t even driving fast enough for the airbag to deploy.

The spot on the road was somewhat odd. It was right at the end of a low water crossing. The road rose up rather sharply at the end and curved upward to the right immediately. Additionally, there was a rather thick pole with a low water crossing warning sign (complete with solar panel and communications box) that seemed to be placed a little too close to the road.

Lesson? Perhaps, don’t be stupid.

[Don Adolfo]

Interestingly enough, I wasn’t even driving fast enough for the airbag to deploy.

The spot on the road was somewhat odd. It was right at the end of a low water crossing. The road rose up rather sharply at the end and curved upward to the right immediately. Additionally, there was a rather thick pole with a low water crossing warning sign (complete with solar panel and communications box) that seemed to be placed a little too close to the road.

Lesson? Perhaps, don’t be stupid.

What was your speed? Was there water accumulation on the road?


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[usinjin]

What was your speed? Was there water accumulation on the road?


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Quite frankly sir, I’m not sure about the details. I had driven to San Antonio and back 3 times that week in the early AM and was quite frazzled. It was a stretch of roadway I’d driven hundreds if not thousands of times, so the details didn’t really stick in my head. I don’t think there was any water on the road itself.

[slater]

This sounds rather game-over. :(

sorry, man. again, i'm just going by the pics - and i'm not a frame expert. i would definitely call a frame specialist and at least discuss and show them the pictures.

[usinjin]

sorry, man. again, i'm just going by the pics - and i'm not a frame expert. i would definitely call a frame specialist and at least discuss and show them the pictures.

I admit I’d already braced myself to give it all up once I saw the bend in the unirail, but you’re absolutely right in that I should at least speak to an expert and get their opinion. I may ask a few BMW shops if they can recommend anyone who can do frame work.

[Don Adolfo]

Oh, okay. I did not intend to insist; I trust there is a safety lesson learned for you in there somewhere. Live and learn. I have learned a lot of lessons from being unsafe. I cannot say I always do or am, but I try to think safety and be safe every time I am behind the wheel.

[johnrando]

Glad you are ok. Good luck with your decision.

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[wstr75]

1. Don't beat yourself up about the past and don't obsess about the future. Learn from the past and park the negative thoughts. Plan for the future just enough to have a recognition of what can or may be coming your way. Spend the greatest amount of available time thinking about the present and make personal action plans and daily to-do lists to make things happen efficiently.

2. What you don't ask for, you don't get. Ask trusted locals for the names of three body shops having frame straightening equipment. Show them the pictures and ask what they would charge to do the straightening. Also ask them what they would charge to do the full monte of repair and painting work.

3. Research the cost for you buying the major parts and re-installing them yourself. Ask yourself if you have the time to do this work with your studies.

4. It sounds like the rest of the car is in good shape. My vote would be to straighten frame and make repairs knowing it will likely be a $2500 to $3500 repair. Lets assume you can get $1000 salvage value selling outright or $2500 parting out yourself. Lets also estimate the cost to get into a similar quality replacement car at $6000+ . If you can repair your car for $2500 - $3500 within a reasonable time period this would favor keeping your ZHP and driving it a long time.

5. Pull all this information together and have a meeting with family members. You may find with rolling out your numbers and research, they see more clearly what you are seeking to accomplish and warm to helping you execute your plan with financial assistance.

I've been there and done all that in my youth. My dad frequently made the comment once I got out of our local county he felt better about my accident chances. I had a spell of five years (age 16 - 21) where I had several accidents on local roads. One instance involved sudden, severe, unexpected hydroplaning. It was a unique circumstance and subsequently I have always been on alert for similar circumstances.

You are now a better driver because of your unfortunate accident. I applaud you for taking the parts off the front of your damaged car and doing your assessment work.

[usinjin]

Oh, okay. I did not intend to insist; I trust there is a safety lesson learned for you in there somewhere. Live and learn. I have learned a lot of lessons from being unsafe. I cannot say I always do or am, but I try to think safety and be safe every time I am behind the wheel.

No offense taken, and you're quite right. I'd say the conditions of the road at the time probably did not help (slightly damp, plus new construction), but mostly I would say it was my emotions that got in the way--I'd been driving for too long, and my and level of fatigue and impatience clouded my better judgement. I guess really I was annoyed with myself for behaving foolishly--I believe that was the real takeaway.


1. Don't beat yourself up about the past and don't obsess about the future. Learn from the past and park the negative thoughts. Plan for the future just enough to have a recognition of what can or may be coming your way. Spend the greatest amount of available time thinking about the present and make personal action plans and daily to-do lists to make things happen efficiently.

2. What you don't ask for, you don't get. Ask trusted locals for the names of three body shops having frame straightening equipment. Show them the pictures and ask what they would charge to do the straightening. Also ask them what they would charge to do the full monte of repair and painting work.

3. Research the cost for you buying the major parts and re-installing them yourself. Ask yourself if you have the time to do this work with your studies.

4. It sounds like the rest of the car is in good shape. My vote would be to straighten frame and make repairs knowing it will likely be a $2500 to $3500 repair. Lets assume you can get $1000 salvage value selling outright or $2500 parting out yourself. Lets also estimate the cost to get into a similar quality replacement car at $6000+ . If you can repair your car for $2500 - $3500 within a reasonable time period this would favor keeping your ZHP and driving it a long time.

5. Pull all this information together and have a meeting with family members. You may find with rolling out your numbers and research, they see more clearly what you are seeking to accomplish and warm to helping you execute your plan with financial assistance.

I've been there and done all that in my youth. My dad frequently made the comment once I got out of our local county he felt better about my accident chances. I had a spell of five years (age 16 - 21) where I had several accidents on local roads. One instance involved sudden, severe, unexpected hydroplaning. It was a unique circumstance and subsequently I have always been on alert for similar circumstances.

You are now a better driver because of your unfortunate accident. I applaud you for taking the parts off the front of your damaged car and doing your assessment work.

Thank you for taking the time to provide such wise advice and experiences on the matter. My real goal is indeed to keep my ZHP and drive it for as long as I can. It's been an excellent car and I don't wish to part with it any time soon.

I did speak with a gentleman today who operates a shop that specializes in frame repair--I will continue to explore my options further.

I suppose I was somewhat rattled because I've never so much as backed into a mailbox, and this felt rather intense. However, hearing about other's road mishaps has leveled with me, and I'll focus on moving forward instead of moping so much. :)

Again, cheers to everyone who has responded with their experiences and advice--I'm hoping I can find a suitable repair avenue, and will post updates as I do.

[usinjin]

Mafia, I am here with an update, for anyone interested in following.

I have removed the headlight assemblies, bumper, radiator and radiator support, expansion tank, fans, and airbox. With all this off, the car doesn't seem quite so terrible.

The photos can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ln9D9Cw-UcLIgIm2yzhs2rMSU_vB9a5q?usp=sharing

It's much easier to see what is bent--the driver's side unirail. It appears to have split at the weld. There could be additional frame damage that isn't apparent to my untrained eye, but this doesn't seem that terrible to me. I have a little more hope that it can be repaired now.

I plan to visit frame repair facilities tomorrow with these pictures.

[fredo]

Glad to hear there is hope. Keep us posted.

[Don Adolfo]

Glad to hear there is hope. Keep us posted.

+1


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[ZHPizza]

Awesome update. That ain't pretty, but I'll never underestimate what talented people can do to fix seemingly major problems. Looking forward to hearing what the frame dudes have to say.

[Vas]

The drivers side frame rail is bent inwards for sure and that is why it separated from the wheel arch area. However that can be fixed with the car being put on a frame machine to get the specs back in-line.

Also the inner part of your passenger front wheel is bent.

Keep us updated

[usinjin]

I visited my Indy shop today, and my mechanic was optimistic. He quoted me $1500 for the parts and labor (not including the rim, which I will replace).

More soon!

[wstr75]

Excellent! Way to go usinjin!

[slater]

Mafia, I am here with an update, for anyone interested in following.

I have removed the headlight assemblies, bumper, radiator and radiator support, expansion tank, fans, and airbox. With all this off, the car doesn't seem quite so terrible.

The photos can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Ln9D9Cw-UcLIgIm2yzhs2rMSU_vB9a5q?usp=sharing

It's much easier to see what is bent--the driver's side unirail. It appears to have split at the weld. There could be additional frame damage that isn't apparent to my untrained eye, but this doesn't seem that terrible to me. I have a little more hope that it can be repaired now.

I plan to visit frame repair facilities tomorrow with these pictures.

sorry, i didn't see this until now! good work getting all of that off!

looking at the second pic, it does like like the passenger side rail is also tweaked a bit, but just at the very end (where the studs are) - this could also be camera lens distortion.



The drivers side frame rail is bent inwards for sure and that is why it separated from the wheel arch area. However that can be fixed with the car being put on a frame machine to get the specs back in-line.

Also the inner part of your passenger front wheel is bent.

Keep us updated

good eyes on that wheel, vas.



I visited my Indy shop today, and my mechanic was optimistic. He quoted me $1500 for the parts and labor (not including the rim, which I will replace).

More soon!

awesome - does that include the frame straightening as well? hood, bumper, rad support? if so... that's amazing!

[usinjin]

Excellent! Way to go usinjin!

Thank you sir :)


sorry, i didn't see this until now! good work getting all of that off!

looking at the second pic, it does like like the passenger side rail is also tweaked a bit, but just at the very end (where the studs are) - this could also be camera lens distortion.




good eyes on that wheel, vas.




awesome - does that include the frame straightening as well? hood, bumper, rad support? if so... that's amazing!

Yes--he has access to a body shop (which I was unaware of until now), and is including all bodywork, parts and labor into that figure. I know, pretty amazing. According to him, I "hit the car in the right spot".

I believe the passenger side rail might be slightly bent too--hard to tell though by eyeballing it (also my normal DSLR was not working, so I used my iPhone camera, which has some minor distortion).

Also, note the wheels (particularly the driver's side) look slightly splayed--I think I at least need a new tie-rod on that side. He said he'd check that (and of course a front end alignment will be in order).

Here I what I need currently (not officially the place I should be requesting these items, I know):

Style 135 18x8 rim
Hood--are there options beyond stock hoods for our cars that are any good? Might ask this in another post

Other items that I might not get to yet (but am thinking about, because one fell swoop for all the work might be best):
Better anti-sway bars (Hotchkis or perhaps M)
Driveshaft guibo

[ZHPizza]

I can't believe how cheap his estimate is. Gotta be leaving something out...like labor...

You should be able to find a hood easy from a rear ended parts car. For the front sway bar, the M3 bar will fit, but the Z4M bar will have the right twist on the end to be a better fit for a non-M e46. They're just harder to find.

[az3579]

$1500 sounds way too cheap. I have a feeling that number will shoot up once disassembly starts...

[fredo]

Any updates ?

[usinjin]

Finally an update--my mechanic is recommending I buy this car from him for $800 and replace what I need on my car myself. (Engine overheated)

It isn't a ZHP (and I rather like the M-Tech trim) so I'd like to find another bumper later. He thinks I could even straighten the frame myself with a come-along--hmm. I'm still considering having a shop do that work. Suggestions on that?

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[danewilson77]

No fam

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[fredo]

I don’t get it. What about his original estimate for 1,500 ?

[usinjin]

I don’t get it. What about his original estimate for 1,500 ?

I’m just as confused. My guess is he’s been on the hunt for the parts all this time. I have neither the space nor the resources to perform the work. If he refuses to do the work I will find another mechanic to do it. More soon!

[holyc0w]

Seems like a weird switch-a-roo. I would leave the frame straightening to the experts.

[fredo]

PM sent.

[usinjin]

Seems like a weird switch-a-roo. I would leave the frame straightening to the experts.

Agreed. Can you imagine chaining the frame to a tree and ripping away at it? “Eh, close enough”

[holyc0w]

Agreed. Can you imagine chaining the frame to a tree and ripping away at it? “Eh, close enough”

Yep...

Whoops, that's a bit too far

[az3579]

I'd skip that car in the pic. It looks beat up and poorly optioned.

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[usinjin]

I'd skip that car in the pic. It looks beat up and poorly optioned.

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Even just for the radiator assembly, fans, and 2 pulleys? That's pretty much all I need. I found a new ZHP bumper.

[san]

Even just for the radiator assembly, fans, and 2 pulleys? That's pretty much all I need. I found a new ZHP bumper.

I would honestly buy new radiator and pulleys.


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[usinjin]

I would honestly buy new radiator and pulleys.


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Probably a better idea. The issue I think is my mechanic wants to save me the maximum amount of money possible by pulling everything used off of another car. I don’t want that. I’d rather spend the $$ on good parts. If I wanted a cheap car, I would be driving a ‘90-something Camry. XD

Looking at pulleys, I was also reminded that I’ve been considering a nicer set of aluminum power pulleys (maybe the TMS ones). More of this somewhat silly saga sure to come.

[ZHPizza]

Probably a better idea. The issue I think is my mechanic wants to save me the maximum amount of money possible by pulling everything used off of another car. I don’t want that. I’d rather spend the $$ on good parts. If I wanted a cheap car, I would be driving a ‘90-something Camry. XD

Looking at pulleys, I was also reminded that I’ve been considering a nicer set of aluminum power pulleys (maybe the TMS ones). More of this somewhat silly saga sure to come.Haha I was about to say you might as well get some underdrive pullies. You can get the bumper support pieces from any pull-a-part car or maybe even eBay.

[slater]

i have a good radiator support, but shipping will be ridiculous from here, unfortunately.

[usinjin]

Finally talked in person with my mechanic.

The $1500 estimate was for the labor. Ah, that makes more sense. That price covers all necessary towing, the frame straightening, painting (in my case the bumper), and the installation of all replacement parts into my car.

That figure does not account for the parts. He wants me to purchase that blown 330i I posted a picture of for $900. I’m not sure this is the best idea. I told him I am going to buy a new radiator instead of using the one that came off a car that had been overheated (hello??). I also want to buy new power pulleys instead of the plastic OEM ones. Am I safe with the rest off that car (radiator support, fans, bumper support, fan clutch, etc)?

What I am hoping is someone will come back on here and say “you can buy all those parts new for within $400 of that $900 used 330i. Buy everything new instead.”

[fredo]

I would consider the $900 car plus a new radiator. You can sell the parts car after the job is completed and get some of your money back.

[az3579]

I would consider the $900 car plus a new radiator. You can sell the parts car after the job is completed and get some of your money back.If you have the space and time to accommodate a parts car, you could part that car out and make all your money back and then some. This could turn a profit. I originally thought he was recommending you swap your stuff into that car. Dunno why I thought that. lol

You should be fine to use the radiator support. Does that parts car have the electric fan? Automatics used regular fans with fan clutches while manual ZHPs have electric fans (the better choice). Just something to note.

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[usinjin]

If you have the space and time to accommodate a parts car, you could part that car out and make all your money back and then some. This could turn a profit. I originally thought he was recommending you swap your stuff into that car. Dunno why I thought that. lol

You should be fine to use the radiator support. Does that parts car have the electric fan? Automatics used regular fans with fan clutches while manual ZHPs have electric fans (the better choice). Just something to note.

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Yes, that would be an enormous and very depressing downgrade to go to a ratty stock 325i with a blown engine :(

[usinjin]

Well, on the way to driving it to be repainted, evidently the tranny lost all its fluid due to a crack. Back to the shop it goes for a new one...

[slater]

Well, on the way to driving it to be repainted, evidently the tranny lost all its fluid due to a crack. Back to the shop it goes for a new one...

ahh, frig. sorry man.

[fredo]

No bueno. I assume you can not use the tranny from your parts car ?

[usinjin]

No bueno. I assume you can not use the tranny from your parts car ?

I'm going to assume not. I don't have the VIN for the 325. Googling is giving me unreliable information. realoem says no.

Edit: Mechanic says no, the 325 doesn't have the GM tranny. He added "don't worry, all will be okay"

hhhhnnggggggg it's been 6 weeks :(

[usinjin]

It's been a long time coming--3 months and 2 days to be exact (!!) but I FINALLY got my car back!

33640

My mechanic is probably more relieved to see the back of it than I am. Evidently, after he got it, not only did he have to get it back to his shop after realizing the transmission was cracked, they had to tow it back AGAIN after part of the fan shroud fell and destroyed the new fan, fan clutch assembly, and the new radiator I bought. On the second tow the tow dolly broke. Not only that, the transmission they found initially had the wrong connector type. Then they couldn't find the right transmission fluid for it. Yikes.

Because it took so long, he isn't charging me for the transmission, the new radiator + fan, or the labor to install either.

Anyways I have it back and I feel nothing different. It drives like it used to (for what I can tell). It tracks straight, and I don't feel any vibration or wobbles. So far so good.

Errr..except for a few things.

Firstly, it's missing a number of things. Where are my Orion V4's? My mechanic claims not to have them anymore. :( Foglights are missing (the lights themselves, I still have the lenses). Part of the air intake is missing (the part that covers the fan at the front). No hood roundel. Hood is obviously not fitting quite right (the latch sticks out).

Secondly, the hood looks pretty good..the bumper, not as much. The area right above the license plate in particular, it doesn't sit flat in the middle. The plastic has about 3 waves in it. See photo below.

Also, the body has quite a few new marks in the paint. Mostly white marks like something scraped up against it. The first order of business today was to vacuum and wash it--there were dirty footprints everywhere inside, including on seats and on the dashboard. :(

I came to a stop on an empty country road and put it in manual mode to see how the transmission felt. Alarmingly, in first gear, as I approached 5k RPMs, the back wheel(s) (I think) went thunkthunkthunkthunk very rapidly, as though I was driving over lane markers. When I shifted to second, the noise and vibration went away. What the heck could that be? :(

I'm taking it to a few shops with certified BMW mechanics to take a look at, I want to get an all-over inspection of the vehicle and the work done to it. It's going to be much more expensive, but I'd rather not take it back to my other mechanic.

It's a big relief to have it back--but it does still need a lot of TLC.

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[fredo]

Good to hear your car is back on the road. Hope the issues you mentioned are an easy fix.

[az3579]

Looks like a rather poor repair job, honestly...

The thunking could be worn diff or transmission bushings, or worn motor mounts.

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[usinjin]

Looks like a rather poor repair job, honestly...

The thinking could be worn diff or transmission bushings, or worn motor mounts.

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Feels bad :(

*sigh* I wish I'd had more insight to the situation. Is it possible a different shop could correct some of the cosmetic repair issues?

I wonder if the tranny they just installed has worn bushings..

[az3579]

Feels bad :(

*sigh* I wish I'd had more insight to the situation. Is it possible a different shop could correct some of the cosmetic repair issues?

I wonder if the tranny they just installed has worn bushings..

Sorry they're tranny mounts, not bushings. Same thing in my mind but whatevs. :)
Transmissions don't usually come with mounts, but it is a possibility they transferred used ones. They should have checked the condition of them though before putting it in.

[usinjin]

Sorry they're tranny mounts, not bushings. Same thing in my mind but whatevs. :)
Transmissions don't usually come with mounts, but it is a possibility they transferred used ones. They should have checked the condition of them though before putting it in.

I have an appointment with ATX Bimmer in the morning. Taking my car to a real BMW specialist..who would have thought? :P I'll ask him to give me his professional opinion and post back here.

[johnrando]

Good to hear your car is back on the road. Hope the issues you mentioned are an easy fix.+1

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[fredo]

Hey … I'm going to ATX Bimmer tomorrow around 1 PM. Maybe I will see you there.

[usinjin]

Hey … I'm going to ATX Bimmer tomorrow around 1 PM. Maybe I will see you there.

My bad, wrong day--I'll be there Thursday instead.

[usinjin]

Today, I went to a real BMW shop and had them do a full inspection and estimate. I learned a lot!

Needs a new driveshaft and carrier--that's very likely the source of the vibration. Transmission reported a code, but I believe that was from the last transmission that died. I hope!

Now to figure out if the front can be salvaged.. :(

[ELCID86]

Glad you got her back.

[Dave1027]

I came to a stop on an empty country road and put it in manual mode to see how the transmission felt. Alarmingly, in first gear, as I approached 5k RPMs, the back wheel(s) (I think) went thunkthunkthunkthunk very rapidly, as though I was driving over lane markers. When I shifted to second, the noise and vibration went away. What the heck could that be? :(
If you were on a dirt road doing 5k in 1st gear the thunking could have been DSC kicking in. Try it again but this time disable DSC first.

[usinjin]

If you were on a dirt road doing 5k in 1st gear the thunking could have been DSC kicking in. Try it again but this time disable DSC first.
No dirt roads for Adriana :) ..it’s a bad driveshaft and carrier.