ZHP NA Project - More Power

[BerDz3nA]

I'm planning on adding some performance mods on my ZHP to increase HP. At the moment the stats on my car are:

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Year: 2004 6 spd M/T
Mileage: 250 000 Km
Engine has been rebuilt from 0 and only clocks 25 000 Km
Weight: 1500 Kg
Dry Compression Tests: 11.5 Bar in all cylinders (above the minimum stated in manual, check the image below)

The car is completely stock apart from the exhaust being de-catted and i have installed K&N filter in the stock airbox.
I've got a magnaflow x-pipe #11385 installed as a muffler sound amazing. The wheels are AC Schnitzer Type 3 8.5J + 15MM Spacers
And a front upper strut brace from Europe (adjustable).


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After too many topics and reviews on what mods to first install i chose to start with headers as it gives the most power when comparing HP vs Money spent. I purchased ebay headers for a bargain price of 83$ They are made in china, so called supersprint replicas.

(Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-98-05-Exhaust-Manifold-Headers-FITS-BMW-E46-E39-Z4-01-06-2-5L-2-8L-3-0L-L6-/112898795384)

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Note that headers differ according models. 330/325 differ from 328/323. 330/325 is llonger with flanges rotated in different directions (check the picture)

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Providing that i live in Georgia (the country located in Europe), i have to ship the headers from USA back to Georgia. At the moment i am waiting on the shipping company to deliver the headers to me, approximately 28.04.2018 I am thinking on buying Ceramic Coat Paint to paint the headers, as not it only provides protection against corrosion but the heat won't be transferred in the engine bay and will remain in the headers thus increasing the temperature of the tubes resulting in expanded gases that will rapidly flow from the exhaust, in other words more hp. The reason i chose ceramic painting headers apart from wrapping them was that a lot of people posted burnt headers with holes in them due to wrap. (check the link: https://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html)

The paint i chose is VHT Flame Proof that withstands from 700-1000 celsius degrees. (link of the product: http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-flameproof-coating)

At the end of the month i am planning on installing and ceramic coating the headers. I want to dyno the car before i install anything, if i do i will post the dyno graph.

As soon as i have news i will update the topic.

[johnrando]

Good stuff!

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[cornercarver]

I believe the correct way to ceramic coat headers is actually to apply it on both the inside and outside. If you’re planning to DIY, you might be better off with a header wrap.

Some info: (just Googled it)
http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/ceramic-coating-vs-exhaust-wraps-which-improves-horsepower-best

[BerDz3nA]

I believe the correct way to ceramic coat headers is actually to apply it on both the inside and outside. If you’re planning to DIY, you might be better off with a header wrap.

Some info: (just Googled it)
http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/ceramic-coating-vs-exhaust-wraps-which-improves-horsepower-bestI will just do the outside, it give a significant difference. Wraps csn damage the header check my link above for info.

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[Sockethead]

11.5 bar is actually a little on the low side compared to what others are getting... that's about what my car did on a compression test and I'm about 30-40 HP below what others with similar mods got on the Dyno. Doesn't mean there is anything wrong with your car though as long as all of the cylinder are around the same compression

You are really going to like the car with headers!
I would use OEM style gaskets. The gaskets that come with them are not very good. Plus, the OEM style gaskets have a heat shield built into them which is good since the valve cover is plastic.

Your car looks great!

[ryankokesh]

What kind of butt dyno improvement are you looking at with headers?

[Sockethead]

Improvement is increase in torque through out the whole RPM range butt dyno and real dyno :)

[BerDz3nA]

11.5 bar is actually a little on the low side compared to what others are getting... that's about what my car did on a compression test and I'm about 30-40 HP below what others with similar mods got on the Dyno. Doesn't mean there is anything wrong with your car though as long as all of the cylinder are around the same compression

You are really going to like the car with headers!
I would use OEM style gaskets. The gaskets that come with them are not very good. Plus, the OEM style gaskets have a heat shield built into them which is good since the valve cover is plastic.

Your car looks great!

Yeap it is low comparing to others but when comparing to factory numbers it's quite high. Every car here that runs as a stock should do reads 10.5-11.5 bars. I just don't get it how they read that high numbers.

Looking forward to the headers. I've seen posts that it makes bigger difference in a ZHP rather than a 330 due to the cams and tune. I suppose it will make even more with a cold air intake.

Thanks for liking my car :)

[Sockethead]

My "theory" on the different compression numbers is that some cars have more carbon buildup in the combustion chamber... If you've ever seen the piston tops and combustion chambers of some engines, that layer can be quite thick... that has to add something to the compression... I can't imagine that the production specs could be that far off in this day and age of CNC machining and modern quality control...

[PetesZ]

Another internet theory is that the gunk can gum up the rings hindering their seal. I have seen some threads showing a marked improvement by soaking the cylinders in mystery oil type crap over night blowing it out and rolling down the street.

I habitually used Lucas top end treatment and the valves looks mint.

[BerDz3nA]

Ok i got the heades today finally, they are definately 325/330 type and just a simple bolt on.
The quality is exceptional no cracks and it's perfect. I am waiting on the ceramic paint to arrive, probably in 2 weeks i will ceramic coat them and then install them.

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At the same moment i started fabricating a custom cold air intake heat shield, i will post a more detailed topic separately in another topic with bunch of photos. For the moment i am painting it black with a 800 celsius resistant degree paint. I have ordered K&N RC-4630 to match it with my shield. The shield came out great with the hep of a CNC Machine.

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[Reasoned1]

Very nice.

[Sockethead]

Nice job! CNC certainly is better than a vice and couple of hammers that most of us have to use :thumbsup

[johnrando]

+1

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[BerDz3nA]

Here's the final product painted. Waiting for the K&N filter to arrive

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[BerDz3nA]

Attached finally :)

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[johnrando]

Nice

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[BMWCurves]

Really like the look of that fabrication job!

[BerDz3nA]

Thank you guys, around 15th of may i 'll have the filter K&N Rc4630 and will post more photos and videos.

At the moment i am waiting on the VHT CERAMIC PAINT for my headers.

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[Sockethead]

Looks great!
BTW, when you get your headers in, your magnaflow exhaust is going to be much louder but really sounds bad ass at full throttle.
I just installed that exhaust a few weeks ago. It was a little too loud for me so I installed the X-pipe muffler in place of the bare X-pipe... took away a lot of the drone and other annoying sounds that you get with catless headers. It still is pretty loud but sweet at full throttle...

Here's a couple of threads about that exhaust from our own member rkneeshaw that make good reading:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=861129&highlight=magnaflow
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=928024&highlight=magnaflow

The X-pipe muffler I used is in the second link

[BerDz3nA]

Looks great!
BTW, when you get your headers in, your magnaflow exhaust is going to be much louder but really sounds bad ass at full throttle.
I just installed that exhaust a few weeks ago. It was a little too loud for me so I installed the X-pipe muffler in place of the bare X-pipe... took away a lot of the drone and other annoying sounds that you get with catless headers. It still is pretty loud but sweet at full throttle...

Here's a couple of threads about that exhaust from our own member rkneeshaw that make good reading:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=861129&highlight=magnaflow
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=928024&highlight=magnaflow

The X-pipe muffler I used is in the second link


I viewed your links, the X Pipe magnaflow that i have is installed as a mufler in the rear :) it makes awesome sound. Can't wait to hear it with headers on and the intake.

Better Intake + K&N -> Bigger ported intake ports = more fuel/air -> bigger explosion -> bigger exhaust ports -> bigger sound :D
What i expect from intake is 5HP and headers at least 10HP at crank both, plus better throttle response. I also wonder if the ported head will make any difference (just curious about the port quality). That i will check on the dyno :)

[Sockethead]

You're going to get a nice bump in torque too... That's what you gonna notice...

[BerDz3nA]

It's been a while :) The paint has arrived. I already sprayed one layer both on headers and the heat shield too.

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I let it dry one day and today i will spray the second layer. Tomorrow i am going at the dyno to check the hp with the current setup.
The only modifications at the moment from the stock are:

1. Stock manifold without cats
2. Ported Head (both inlet/outlet) by 2mm
3. X-Pipe as mufler
4. K&N filter in stock air filter box

I am looking at about 192-196 HP at the wheels considering the above mods.
The K&N filter will arrive tomorrow. At the weekend i am planning on installing the headers and the heatshield/K&N filter together to feel the HP gain :D

After i am planning on dynoing the before and after results just to make sure how many HP i gained.

[Sockethead]

Stock manifolds without cats?

[BerDz3nA]

Stock manifolds without cats?Yeap they have been de-catted by previous owner.

More pics of ceramic coated headers

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/4917fb58a97ecab927e4f4981a9acc0c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180508/f488ef597a08fb2ce996f1bcaaae437c.jpg

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[PetesZ]

At least if they ever get stolen. Your finger prints will claim them as your property

[johnrando]

Good werk!

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[BerDz3nA]

Today i went and dynoed my car. The results were great 188 WHP, with a 20% loss it equals 235 HP. The main thing was that there was no power drop at 4200rpm which is common in ZHPs. Air Temp 24 Celsius

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I also installed the K&N filter and my custom made heat shield

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First impressions of K&N are that the pedal is more responsive at low rpms and it pulls much better past 4000rpm with a great sound. The shield keeps a steady temperature similar to the stock air box. Air flow to the filter is better as it feeds both from stock pipe from the mid also from the left brake hose.

[kakashi169]

Any videos on how it sounds like now? I am interested in getting headers as well.

[Sockethead]

If you like quiet, you can stick with the stock exhaust. With headers, it's a little louder and a little raspier. I only got about a 7hp increase on the dyno with the Magnaflow system. Anything aftermarket is pretty loud

[BerDz3nA]

So as i said car showed 188 whp without the CAI K&N. After the dyno i installed the K&N CAI and a few days ago i installed the headers.
Unfortunately i had to modify the rear O2 sensor ports because it used to hit the wall. I cut the already crafted ports on the intake into half and wielded the halfs on the other sides. Unfortunately due to my lack of experience i didn't know that shortening the O2 rear sensor ports would mess with AFR. My AFR became lean, thus the DME provides more gas than it needs and doesn't run effectively. The rear O2 sensors clear so there is no chance of them hitting anything. They are not the lowest point plus the 90 degree adaptors i already ordered will change the direction. I was about to dyno the results but the lean code has postponed it until i install the adaptors.

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Here is the link to video of headers + k&N + Lean AFR problem acceleration

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YKDYOkqBO4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_Zw4e6fY-I

[kakashi169]

I have the OEM BMWP exhaust and is interested in buying the headers but

Will I have the cel light turned on?
Will it smell like gas in the cabin?

[Sockethead]

Why are you still using the secondary O2 sensors? You trying get the CEL to go off without coding out the secondaries?

[Sockethead]

I have the OEM BMWP exhaust and is interested in buying the headers but

Will I have the cel light turned on?
Will it smell like gas in the cabin?

Yes you will have CEL light. The secondary O2 sensors monitor the cats. No additional fumes are created with headers but the smell will completely different. If you're not used to it, then you may find it annoying.

[kakashi169]

any way to turn off the CEL light?? So will the cabin smell or no?

[slater]

any way to turn off the CEL light?? So will the cabin smell or no?

CEL: yes, you'll need a tune. AA has a tune that can do this, as well as delete the SAP if you want. more importantly (for us), they have a dealer in the GTA, so you don't have to send your DME out.

smell: i can't answer this directly, but from what i've heard... maybe. ;)

personally, if i go with catless headers, i will be installing high-flow cats downstream anyway.

[kakashi169]

hmmmm....ebay item carted...should i check out...hmmmm lol

[BerDz3nA]

I have the OEM BMWP exhaust and is interested in buying the headers but

Will I have the cel light turned on?
Will it smell like gas in the cabin?

1. You will have the CEL light on you need to put the 90 degree O2 spacers to avoid.
2. No it will not

[BerDz3nA]

Why are you still using the secondary O2 sensors? You trying get the CEL to go off without coding out the secondaries?

I am trying to get the CEL go off without coding out. I ordered the 90 degree O2 adaptors. In the future i am planning on coding out but after i will add the Bored TB and the Underdrive pullies.

[slater]

1. You will have the CEL light on you need to put the 90 degree O2 spacers to avoid.

has that worked for anyone?

[BerDz3nA]

has that worked for anyone?

According to the amazon reviews it has worked, i will confirm that at the end of the month :)

[slater]

According to the amazon reviews it has worked, i will confirm that at the end of the month :)

it worked for E46 owners?

just curious, because i've never heard of them working before. ;) would love it if they did actually work!

[BerDz3nA]

it worked for E46 owners?

just curious, because i've never heard of them working before. ;) would love it if they did actually work!

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[slater]

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Cool! I hope they work for you too, that would be a great data point.


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[Sockethead]

I've heard of at least one other person getting it to work but it was a struggle...

[autom3otives]

I can confirm they work. I installed a pair of 90deg angled extenders on my ZHP with catless headers (in the rear-most bungs). It is a bit of a struggle to get them to fit, lots of initial loose fitment until you get the angles just right since the space and clearance is tight, and after a few test fits, you'll be able to figure out what angles the extenders need to point. Just remember that these headers are nothing without a tune. I went with Eurocharged for my tune, and have since added a big bore throttle body, and the response is much, much better compared to stock. I have a set of underdrive pulleys waiting to top it off, and that should be it for NA bolt ons.

When it comes to smog time (CA), I revert my car to the OEM tune and cycle the car on the freeway up to steady 55mph in order to get all the monitors ready for smog. Even with the tune's ability to code out the CEL, the monitors will be in the 'not ready' state, hence the need to go back to OEM to play nice with the smog computers. Going back and forth from OEM tune to Eurocharged, the car responds much differently, such a dog going back to the OEM tune.

[BerDz3nA]

I can confirm they work. I installed a pair of 90deg angled extenders on my ZHP with catless headers (in the rear-most bungs). It is a bit of a struggle to get them to fit, lots of initial loose fitment until you get the angles just right since the space and clearance is tight, and after a few test fits, you'll be able to figure out what angles the extenders need to point. Just remember that these headers are nothing without a tune. I went with Eurocharged for my tune, and have since added a big bore throttle body, and the response is much, much better compared to stock. I have a set of underdrive pulleys waiting to top it off, and that should be it for NA bolt ons.

When it comes to smog time (CA), I revert my car to the OEM tune and cycle the car on the freeway up to steady 55mph in order to get all the monitors ready for smog. Even with the tune's ability to code out the CEL, the monitors will be in the 'not ready' state, hence the need to go back to OEM to play nice with the smog computers. Going back and forth from OEM tune to Eurocharged, the car responds much differently, such a dog going back to the OEM tune.

What throttle body have you installed and how many MM is the diameter ? Have you dynoed the results ?
Also i am planning on installing the underdrive pullies, what brand have you got istalled and what are the results ? feelings ?

[autom3otives]

What throttle body have you installed and how many MM is the diameter ? Have you dynoed the results ?
Also i am planning on installing the underdrive pullies, what brand have you got istalled and what are the results ? feelings ?

I went with this company since they are local to me:
http://westcoastriots.com/shop/automobile-machine/m54b3-0-engine-big-bore-throttle-body-bmw-p-n-13547502445/

No dyno results, but given that all the mods put together complement each other, it makes the car just a bit more fun to drive. It's all subjective anyways, I have an S54 in my other car so my M54 ZHP won't feel as frantic as the S54 but it's fine for daily driving.

I don't have pulleys installed yet. Will probably go with Turner Motorsport or Rogue, whatever big name is available and will be on sale during the holiday/clearance season, highly doubt there is a noticeable difference between the big names.

[BerDz3nA]

I went with this company since they are local to me:
http://westcoastriots.com/shop/automobile-machine/m54b3-0-engine-big-bore-throttle-body-bmw-p-n-13547502445/

No dyno results, but given that all the mods put together complement each other, it makes the car just a bit more fun to drive. It's all subjective anyways, I have an S54 in my other car so my M54 ZHP won't feel as frantic as the S54 but it's fine for daily driving.

I don't have pulleys installed yet. Will probably go with Turner Motorsport or Rogue, whatever big name is available and will be on sale during the holiday/clearance season, highly doubt there is a noticeable difference between the big names.

350$ for approximately 5WHP gain is too expensive, thank you for the info.
Does rogue have 3 set pullies

[Newjack]

Go with Rogue pulleys. All other vendors sell their own pulleys, which are a replica of the Rogue pulleys. Rogue are the original and they usually have sales on them. Best mod I've done to my car in terms of power and responsiveness.

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[Reasoned1]

I have both Turner and UUC, and I don't have an issue with either (can't say I feel either), but I prefer the UUC, because they have spokes, which allows you to more easily prevent them from turning when tightening/installing.

[Sockethead]

I did notice a difference with the UUC. not much but it was definitely there. That was one of the first mods I did.
UUC doesn't under drive the alternator...

[holyc0w]

Rogue doesn't do the alternator either.

[ZHPizza]

Turner underdrives the alternator and it is a son of a bitch to change that pulley

[BerDz3nA]

That's why i am planning on going with TMS. It has the altrrnator pulley.

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[slater]

That's why i am planning on going with TMS. It has the altrrnator pulley.

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I think the nice thing about not doing the alternator pulley is that there is no adverse effects on the electronics.


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[Newjack]

I think the nice thing about not doing the alternator pulley is that there is no adverse effects on the electronics.


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Yeah Rogue pulleys don't include the alternator either. I mean you can run them, but I feel like those are better for track cars since things like radio etc have issues with the alternator pulley.

[Sockethead]

Underdriving the alternator is going to affect it's output more in the low RPM range, think traffic jams, city driving, etc.
I went with UUC at the time because I didn't want to underdrive the alternator but I know there are members that don't have an issue with it.

[Newjack]

Underdriving the alternator is going to affect it's output more in the low RPM range, think traffic jams, city driving, etc.
I went with UUC at the time because I didn't want to underdrive the alternator but I know there are members that don't have an issue with it.

Rogue even says on their website that the E46 M3 RACE pulleys which includes the alternator pulley, are not for street use and no longer uses the A/C.

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogue-Engineering-Power-Pulleys_p_116.html

[Sockethead]

That's because that set replaces the crank pulley too. You don't want to do that on a street car

[ZHPizza]

There's no issues with electronics with the TMS alternator pulley. I asked support before I ordered if I could run both butt toasters, the rear defroster, and the stereo on full blast and they kind of laughed like yeah dude have a party. No issues here.

[JPMo]

There's no issues with electronics with the TMS alternator pulley. I asked support before I ordered if I could run both butt toasters, the rear defroster, and the stereo on full blast and they kind of laughed like yeah dude have a party. No issues here.

Interesting. Did you already do it?

[ZHPizza]

Yeah I've had the pullies installed for at least a year now

[holyc0w]

From what I have seen on the internet, people generally have no issues with the alternator pulley.

[johnrando]

I didnt w mine

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[BerDz3nA]

What about difference in terms of power ? Has anyone dynoed ?

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[Reasoned1]

Was that a rhetorical question? ;)

[BerDz3nA]

Nope i am just curious i havent done it yet

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[BerDz3nA]

*****UPDATE*****

The Throttle Body boots bend when i fully press the gas pedal especially at lower rpms and higher gears.

Pros: The head porting works :D
Cons: I need to find a solution

[kakashi169]

OP, would you recommend the headers or does it just feel like stock and is a waste of resources?

[BerDz3nA]

OP, would you recommend the headers or does it just feel like stock and is a waste of resources?

For the moment i am waiting on the O2 Spacers. Without them it runs lean (I mistakenly cut the rear O2 ports and lowered them). As soon as i install them i will let you know.

[Sockethead]

OP, would you recommend the headers or does it just feel like stock and is a waste of resources?

Definitely recommended. Two things that are going to make the most difference is a gear reduction in the diff and headers...

[kakashi169]

im just waiting to hear back from OP, i dun want a CEL light.

[BerDz3nA]

im just waiting to hear back from OP, i dun want a CEL light.

I installed the spacers for the O2 Sensors.I had to cut into half it would screw because i had modified the rear hole.
The car runs great, i also did the adaptation erase of everything. The only problem i have are the throttle body boots, they bend when i accelerate. Most say it is due to the boot quality. I will check that tomorrow i'll install another pair. As for the headers torque increase is humangous :D as for the acceleration and HP wise can't test is fully due to the boot mentioned above. Another thing CEL light hasn't showed up since then :) but when running obd2 scanner it reads rear banks lean and stuck. Maybe due to the spacers leading to incorrect values but no CEL and engine runs smooth as rear O2 sensors don't contribute to AFR as i thought. The only purpose is to check catalytic efficiency.

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[kakashi169]

how does it sound OP?

[BerDz3nA]

how does it sound OP?

Sounds badass but on a magnaflow it is kind of annoying

[kakashi169]

vids please?

[BerDz3nA]

vids please?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_Zw4e6fY-I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YKDYOkqBO4

[kakashi169]

any sound clips from the outside?

[BerDz3nA]

any sound clips from the outside?Sorry no

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[BerDz3nA]

Badd news the spacers for o2 dont cure the SES. Light it came twice this week.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180531/42f8eca1b929d787e20093dae8763a26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180531/ad5a4344c53f6dd599b89b78fa37e547.jpg

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[Sockethead]

If you can, try adding a little more spacer to it. That's what another member did... I wish I could remember who it was....

[BerDz3nA]

If you can, try adding a little more spacer to it. That's what another member did... I wish I could remember who it was....

After many experiment i have decided to fully stock my car. I am reverting back to factory. I dont like how the magnaflow sounds, plus the headers didn't really made that huge difference. As for the intake K&N the stock box is way better heatwise.

[Sockethead]

Do you still have the stock ZHP exhaust? It flows pretty well and sounds much better with the headers. I may go back to the ZHP exhaust as well.
FYI, I only got 7-8 hp gain on the Dyno with the full Magnaflow exhaust over the stock ZHP exhaust

The one issue with the magnaflow muffler is that the inlets are dual 2.5 inches but the outlet is a single 2.5 that restricts to 2.25 at the Y for the tips. This is fine for non modded engines with cats in place but once you start increasing flow through the system with headers and in my case super charger, it becomes a real issue and it doesn't sound very good.

[Reasoned1]

You guys sure make me want to leave well-enough alone when it comes to exhaust, and I've been debating putting my stock airbox back on--although I love the sound of the K&N CAI.

[Sockethead]

yea it's a fine line between power and annoying :)

[rkneeshaw]

You guys sure make me want to leave well-enough alone when it comes to exhaust

Honestly, I think this is pretty true with quite a few things with these cars.

[kakashi169]

So you are telling me that you regret installing the headers now OP? lol

[Sockethead]

I don't regret installing my headers! Code out the secondary O2 sensors and the secondary air pump and leave the stock exhaust in place and you'll be happy! It will run and sound great with no check engine light

[BerDz3nA]

So you are telling me that you regret installing the headers now OP? lolI put back the stock headers because at the moment i am trying to find the issue that causes:

1. At 1500 rpm when in 4 5 6 gear and i fully press the gas pedal the car jerks for about 1-3 secpnds and then accelerates
2. When accrlerating at 4 gear i can hardly reach 6000 rpm and i. 5 gear i cannot go past 5000 rpm no power
3. When i redline at neutral it misfires in the muffler
4. At idle when i turn ac on the car starts jerking


My assumptions

1. Fuel pump
2. Coil
3. Injectors


It must be either of these what do you think ?

P.S. ebay headers are a must mod !

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[Newjack]

I put back the stock headers because at the moment i am trying to find the issue that causes:

1. At 1500 rpm when in 4 5 6 gear and i fully press the gas pedal the car jerks for about 1-3 secpnds and then accelerates
2. When accrlerating at 4 gear i can hardly reach 6000 rpm and i. 5 gear i cannot go past 5000 rpm no power
3. When i redline at neutral it misfires in the muffler
4. At idle when i turn ac on the car starts jerking


My assumptions

1. Fuel pump
2. Coil
3. Injectors


It must be either of these what do you think ?

P.S. ebay headers are a must mod !

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Coils and plugs would show symptoms at idle or low RPM's right?

Maybe fuel pump/filter if its old or a failing injector?

[Vas]

MAF sensor...

[Newjack]

MAF sensor...

http://i.imgur.com/Wzlm9xX.gif

[BerDz3nA]

Coils and plugs would show symptoms at idle or low RPM's right?

Maybe fuel pump/filter if its old or a failing injector?

Plugs are brand new and i have tested two different sets of them to eliminate plugs.
Coils are next to test and fuel pump.

Fuel filter is brand new.

[Sockethead]

Did you scan for codes? Not all codes will trigger SES light

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings,
Long time no post. I have removed the headers because it messed up with my AFR, providing that I ordered from ebay, the post cat banks didn’t clear so I relocated them to another spot, and I also had to seal the pre cat bank one because it hit the other header and I was unable to mount the cat sensor, so I had to drill another hole to fit it. Unfortunately drilling another hole that was not the same height and was positioned not similarly to the other pre cat sensor messed with my AFR and the car couldn’t rev post 6000 rpm in 5th gear, there was just not enough power.
Note that pre cat sensors are in charge/reponsible for fuel/air mixture
I know I could have drilled another hole, a proper one this time but I decided to sell the headers and buy factory drilled in the future.

33491

I also went and dynoed the resulted with K&N intake. I wanted to compare before and after K&N gains, which by the way were impressive. Before I installed the K&N my car showed 235 HP at the crank. With K&N the car showed 248 HP ! A big gain of 13HP at the crank, So the K&N air filters really work. The torque was 297 lb/ft and now is 328 lb/ft this is a massive gain for torque, but i think decated manifold with K&N really brought up the power + ZHP cams
At the moment my car specs are:
1. Decatted exhaust manifold
2. K&N filter + Custom Intake


33494
33492

As you can see from the dyno AFR results from 2300rpm – 4000rpm the AFR stays between 14 ratio which is lean. From 4000rpm – 64000rpm stays at 13.5 which is normal. Because the filter induces more air the DME needs tuning to keep the 13.5 ration constant. After I install the headers I will get it tuned.

As for the problem at 1500 rpm i think it is due to the AFR needing tuning, if i unmount the MAF cable it solves itself, when unmounting the dme provides rich mixture that is why it stops the problem. As i said earlier i will tune the dme after i install the headers.

[ZHPizza]

Wow for a second there I glanced over the decatted bit and thought you got that power boost from the intake. I'm betting almost all of that power came from removing the cats, but damn that's a nice gain on the stock exhaust manifolds!

[kakashi169]

so the headers was too much of a headache and thats why you sold them??

i was expecting a happy ending with the modded header story

[BerDz3nA]

Wow for a second there I glanced over the decatted bit and thought you got that power boost from the intake. I'm betting almost all of that power came from removing the cats, but damn that's a nice gain on the stock exhaust manifolds!I don't even know what you are saying but if you looked at my previous posts you would see i was already decated when my car ran 235 hp everything else stock after i installed the k&n then i gained additional 13 hp so there is no need of betting and wondering it is clearly due to the intake.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[BerDz3nA]

so the headers was too much of a headache and thats why you sold them??

i was expecting a happy ending with the modded header storyThe china ebay headers was too much headache for me i will buy locally the one that will not cause that much problems. Headers is still on top of my must mods for a zhp.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

If you are going to get a tune, I'd eliminate the post cat O2 sensors completely along with the secondary air pump when you install the headers. Any decent tuner should be able to code them out. It will save you a lot of headache.
As far as headers go, The Bimmerbrakes headers (now sold by europarts online) quality and fit is pretty good. I'm running the V3 version which are equal length tubing but are much harder to install than the V1 version due to the positioning of the pipes to make them equal length.

[BerDz3nA]

If you are going to get a tune, I'd eliminate the post cat O2 sensors completely along with the secondary air pump when you install the headers. Any decent tuner should be able to code them out. It will save you a lot of headache.
As far as headers go, The Bimmerbrakes headers (now sold by europarts online) quality and fit is pretty good. I'm running the V3 version which are equal length tubing but are much harder to install than the V1 version due to the positioning of the pipes to make them equal length.

I was thinking about the bimmerbrakes but it costs much more compared to ebay headers.

[Sockethead]

Well, you get what you pay for you know?

[BerDz3nA]

Well, you get what you pay for you know?Yeap but in this case prive vs hp is not justified i prefer china

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Bimmerbrakes headers are made in china too... same with Schmiedmann

[Newjack]

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure @Hornung418 had eBay headers that required a lot additional fitment work and it was a huge PITA.

As long as whatever you get can bolt right on it should be fine

[Hornung418]

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure @Hornung418 had eBay headers that required a lot additional fitment work and it was a huge PITA.

As long as whatever you get can bolt right on it should be fineMine fit fine. It was a real bear getting them in place and mounted up. But when I did one of them was short by about a half inch and it was slightly to the left of where the rest of the system naturally rested. The shop used a donut spacer to fill the void and a couple of bolts to hold it all together. Everything worked out fine in the end.

It might be in the build thread I have linked in my signature??

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[BerDz3nA]

Greetings,

Been a while since i posted an update. My performance project has come to an end. The main reason were the headers, after i found out they were defective i decided not to order new one because it was 50/50 chance it came good or the same as the previous one. Plus the MOT test in Georgia prohibits CO levels above 0.80, mine was 0.66 without the headers, if i continued my project headers, intake, throttle body, remap it would exceed the limit.

So i decided to make it fully factory, i swapped my magnaflow xpipe exhaust for stock zhp exhaust
I sold the intake and installed factory box with paper filter. I also bought the manifold with catalytic converters and installed it.

Now it is fully factory :)

[Sockethead]

Nothing wrong with full factory.... less headache in the long run.
ZHP exhaust is a good exhaust. I'm still running that exhaust with headers and supercharger

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings long time no update :) After i went fully stock on my ZHP, i found a guy was selling his E46 330 Gruppe M air filter. I couldn't miss the chance and i bought it. I was looking for one since i bought the car. The sound is amazing like a V8 and when accelerating it's got a nice whistle sound.

In the nearest future i am planning on installing the headers, but at the moment i am looking for a ebay header that doesn't need welding and it's bolt on. As you saw in my previous posts the previous headers was a headache since i modified three O2 sensor ports and still wouldn't work.

34306
34307

[3LiterStraightSix]

Greetings long time no update :) After i went fully stock on my ZHP, i found a guy was selling his E46 330 Gruppe M air filter. I couldn't miss the chance and i bought it. I was looking for one since i bought the car. The sound is amazing like a V8 and when accelerating it's got a nice whistle sound.

In the nearest future i am planning on installing the headers, but at the moment i am looking for a ebay header that doesn't need welding and it's bolt on. As you saw in my previous posts the previous headers was a headache since i modified three O2 sensor ports and still wouldn't work.

34306
34307PLEASE let me know if you discover headers!! I've been looking for a bolt on for a long time [emoji17]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

GruppeM intake is one of my favorite mods on my car.

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings guys long time no post :)
I have been busy working on my new project, a bigger throttle body, yeap you heard it right, i am keeping on going to finish the project.

For the moment my car specs are:

2004 ZHP M/T, I have installed japanese OEM exhaust manifold with catalytic converter and Gruppe M Intake.
I decided to install the N52B30 throttle body, which is 76mm in comparison with ZHP's 68mm (Check the first image for comparison). I could go on installing the E60 545 Throttle Body but it is way too big at 80mm.

The N52B30 throttle body plug adapter is the same as the ZHP's, so there is no problem in hooking up the plug. The problem is that you need a spacer, because only two holes can be used to mount the throttle body onto the intake manifold. The other two should be mounted onto the spacer. Also you need to enlarge the diameter of the intake manifold because as i mentioned the throttle body is bigger, the inner diameter is 76mm. I bought a separate intake manifold to work at home, because i wouldn't be able to enlarge the intake manifold diameter attached it onto the car. I used high heat grade sealant when i installed the spacer on it, let it dry for a few days. The spacer specs are 10cm*11cm*1.1cm. As for the throttle body boot, I used Ford Mondeo 1.6 1992 intake boot (p/n: 93bb-9c623-gad05wa), it is exactly 76mm and 90mm on the other end. The problem is that it has no hose ports to connect the idle valve and the vacuum hose. So i fabricated a 90mm diameter, 10cm long aluminium pipe, and welded inside two aluminium hoses to attached the idle valve and vacuum hose. I bought curved hose for idle valve i don't know that car's was and i installed a longer hose. I also bought a second Ford intake boot cut it to use as a connector between the MAF and the Gruppe M, and then i used gruppe m silicone tube to connect aluminium pipe and the other end of MAF. After i finished installing everything i smoked tested the intake to make sure air wasn't able to get in between connections, and everything worked like a clock :) At the moment i am not sure if i gained anything, but i am pretty sure that my throttle response is much better and sharper, also the gruppe m started sounding meaner.

Ok as for the pros and cons from first experience

Pros:

Better throttle response
Better sound with gruppe m

Cons:

You cannot attach the cables coming from DME that used to be bolt on the idle valve as the throttle body is bigger you have to hang it there, it is no problem providing that they are only a set of cables
Too much details when starting the project and it took me around 3 full days to install, fabricate it.

As for the prices, I live in Georgia (The country in Europe), so the used spare parts are:

1. Throttle Body of N52B30 - 15$
2. Intake Manifold of M54B30 - 19$
3. Ford Mondeo Intake Boot (Quantity: 2 pcs) - 7$
4. Spacer Fabrication - 19$
5. Aluminium Pipe & Fabrication - 17$
6. Installation by me - FREE :D

In Total: 77$

Now compare it to DINAN, Dinan costs 911$ and it is only 74mm, also on ebay a British guy sells CNC-ed Throttle Bodies for around 200$ but it is only 72mm.
Not bad for 77$ and 76mm :D


https://i.postimg.cc/cvnC7DZz/1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvnC7DZz) https://i.postimg.cc/G8cpCdY0/20190224-153432.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G8cpCdY0) https://i.postimg.cc/WtY1BR1K/20190224-225722.jpg (https://postimg.cc/WtY1BR1K) https://i.postimg.cc/143z7Rsw/20190224-225731.jpg (https://postimg.cc/143z7Rsw)

https://i.postimg.cc/hQvPXspp/20190224-225751.jpg (https://postimg.cc/hQvPXspp) https://i.postimg.cc/BXdQvxDB/20190224-230043.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BXdQvxDB) https://i.postimg.cc/fVmWSJfn/20190224-230056.jpg (https://postimg.cc/fVmWSJfn) https://i.postimg.cc/4mKxZ8K3/20190224-230109.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4mKxZ8K3)

https://i.postimg.cc/Q90dNwkF/20190224-230319.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Q90dNwkF) https://i.postimg.cc/Jy8rNMpy/20190224-230346.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Jy8rNMpy) https://i.postimg.cc/gXSGbRmR/20190224-230509.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gXSGbRmR) https://i.postimg.cc/8Fb1w9YZ/20190225-220920.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8Fb1w9YZ)

https://i.postimg.cc/cvRZ4Pdd/20190227-230517.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvRZ4Pdd) https://i.postimg.cc/XXPn2w26/20190302-204743.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XXPn2w26) https://i.postimg.cc/ppnR3p7h/20190302-204803.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ppnR3p7h) https://i.postimg.cc/SnFk4mFZ/20190302-204823.jpg (https://postimg.cc/SnFk4mFZ)

https://i.postimg.cc/Jt01cT5Q/20190302-212211.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Jt01cT5Q) https://i.postimg.cc/HcxCzxXL/20190302-224821.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcxCzxXL) https://i.postimg.cc/VS48XMST/20190302-224906.jpg (https://postimg.cc/VS48XMST) https://i.postimg.cc/F7cXDwd0/20190302-224913.jpg (https://postimg.cc/F7cXDwd0)

https://i.postimg.cc/cvByNYcH/20190302-225011.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvByNYcH) https://i.postimg.cc/MMXhRLJM/20190304-001343.jpg (https://postimg.cc/MMXhRLJM) https://i.postimg.cc/2qjpj6Hx/20190304-001536.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2qjpj6Hx) https://i.postimg.cc/gwgCxWQb/20190304-001542.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gwgCxWQb)

https://i.postimg.cc/K12SVQBw/20190310-154930.jpg (https://postimg.cc/K12SVQBw) https://i.postimg.cc/N2HSCrMQ/20190310-164545.jpg (https://postimg.cc/N2HSCrMQ) https://i.postimg.cc/Q9Pvqqj6/20190310-164546.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Q9Pvqqj6) https://i.postimg.cc/PP10mZ94/20190310-165132.jpg (https://postimg.cc/PP10mZ94)

https://i.postimg.cc/BjskNbGG/20190310-180406.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BjskNbGG) https://i.postimg.cc/ZWcgQmTv/20190310-192347.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ZWcgQmTv) https://i.postimg.cc/67bP9h49/20190310-192433.jpg (https://postimg.cc/67bP9h49)

[BerDz3nA]

Today i went and dynoed my car. The outside temperature was 15 degrees celsius, and car specs were:

1. Headlight Less so the filter would breath freely
2. Gruppe M
3. N52B30 Throttle Body
4. 98 Octane Super

The peak HP at the wheels was impressive considering that i have catalytic converter restricting the engine to breath. But the AFR was awfull.
From 3900rpm to 4100rpm the AFR gets lean, then normalizes and at 5800rpm starts getting richer and drops down to 11,3. The HP peak is at 5500rpm and shows 203,4HP at the wheels. I think the AFR is due to the bigger throttle body. So next step are the headers (at the local shop my friend bought and installed on his 330, the rear o2 didn't fit but i don't care as i am planning on coding out the rear o2s), after i install them i will check the dyno again to see what difference the headers made and then i will head to tune the DME at the local shop GELASHVILI PERFORMANCE. I am aiming at the 220WHP, let's see what my car shows.

If you saw my last dyno results, i showed 202WHP and my specs were:

1. KN Intake
2. Headlightless
3. Decated exhaust manifold

Now comparing with my current setup, if we say that after i installed the catalyst converter, the restriction should have reduced around 4-5WHP, the WHP should have been 197-198 WHP. So providing that i showed 203WHP with catalyst converted the throttle body should have gained me, 203WHP-197/198WHP = 5-6WHP

Take into consideration that 5-6WHP is without tuning the DME and correcting the AFR. If i tuned it the results will be greater. So at the end it was totally worth isntalling the N52B30 throttle body.

34883

[johnrando]

Good to know

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[ZHPizza]

Awesome work! Thanks for sharing your journey + updates!

[BerDz3nA]

Awesome work! Thanks for sharing your journey + updates!

Thank you 🙂👍

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings,

This time i've got a sooner update :) I installed supersprint replica headers. A local shop has imported from china, ebay lookalike headers. The box read E46 330i. The front O2 sensors installed with no problems. The rears needed alocation because it hit the wall but as i was not planning to install the rear o2 sensors, because i am planning on remapping my dme and code out the rear o2s i decided to install the blank bolts instead. I disconnected the rear o2 sensors from the car. SES light came up but it doesn't matter for me. Another issue was bolting the headers in the rear section with the exhaust. One header was longer than another and i had to cut and weld a pipe in between. Approximately 1.5-2cm pipe. Apart from that everything went well and the car runs great. The sound of the muffler has increased but not dramatically, it has a nice sound when the headers get hot.

Headers price: 150$

First impressions are that it accelerates faster and has more torque. I will dyno the results on saturday and i can compare it to the before dyno results. I ran the adaptations with inpa, a full adaptation program, it will be interesting what the afr will be.

After the dyno i am planning on remapping and that will be the end to it.

https://i.postimg.cc/fV0cQqYm/20190323-084729.jpg (https://postimg.cc/fV0cQqYm) https://i.postimg.cc/tYbdGN2M/20190323-084734.jpg (https://postimg.cc/tYbdGN2M) https://i.postimg.cc/BjV1bTBs/20190323-084740.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BjV1bTBs) https://i.postimg.cc/V5Wg6hr8/20190323-084916.jpg (https://postimg.cc/V5Wg6hr8)

https://i.postimg.cc/BXNF998j/20190323-104755.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BXNF998j) https://i.postimg.cc/1npgvLh5/20190323-104809.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1npgvLh5) https://i.postimg.cc/XBLrbdYR/20190323-104816.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XBLrbdYR) https://i.postimg.cc/rdRRrDf4/20190323-104820.jpg (https://postimg.cc/rdRRrDf4)

https://i.postimg.cc/nXzDnR70/20190323-104842.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nXzDnR70) https://i.postimg.cc/Ln4TZVLZ/20190323-104849.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Ln4TZVLZ) https://i.postimg.cc/vcPv76t2/20190323-104852.jpg (https://postimg.cc/vcPv76t2) https://i.postimg.cc/WF2Df52G/20190323-104903.jpg (https://postimg.cc/WF2Df52G)

https://i.postimg.cc/Mvcn4M8F/20190323-105029.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Mvcn4M8F) https://i.postimg.cc/qz9NdJJM/20190323-152450.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qz9NdJJM) https://i.postimg.cc/YvYhr50N/20190323-152508.jpg (https://postimg.cc/YvYhr50N) https://i.postimg.cc/z32L0w4h/20190323-152910.jpg (https://postimg.cc/z32L0w4h)

https://i.postimg.cc/McYHR1yv/20190323-152934.jpg (https://postimg.cc/McYHR1yv) https://i.postimg.cc/cg4Hc6mT/20190323-161636.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cg4Hc6mT) https://i.postimg.cc/9R8fgVg2/20190323-163141.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9R8fgVg2)

[YoitsTmac]

Great thread. I assume there is some additional gain by partnering the N52 throttle body with the unrestricted carless headers. Increased air coming in and less restriction going out. In chasing HP, any desire to switch to the M50 manifold?

[BerDz3nA]

Great thread. I assume there is some additional gain by partnering the N52 throttle body with the unrestricted carless headers. Increased air coming in and less restriction going out. In chasing HP, any desire to switch to the M50 manifold?

Yeap there is some additional gain with headers. I dynoed last night the results with:

1. Headlightless
2. Gruppe M Intake
3. N52 Throttle Body (76mm)
4. Ported Head
5. ZHP Camshafts
6. Ebay Headers

The results are: 211WHP / 285 WTQ / AFR 13.00 with a 18-20% loss for drivetrain the results for engine will be: 257-264HP / 348-356 TQ

https://i.postimg.cc/RWNHKH26/20190330-174837.jpg (https://postimg.cc/RWNHKH26)https://i.postimg.cc/qhkBXfgb/20190330-174906.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qhkBXfgb)

To sum up the horsepower journey for my ZHP
The headers gave me - 8WHP
The N52 Throttle body - 4-5WHP
Gruppe M without headlight - 10WHP
As for the ported head, i don't have an idea what it increased. The mods cost me roughly 500$, 500$ for 22-23WHP, worth it ? For me totally.
Last thing that is left is the remap, which i am currently investigating in, locally only one guy can remap an MS45 ECU, George Gelashvili and it costs 350$. The expected gains are roughly 5-10WHP and a better AFR for high rpms. I also want to code out the rear Cat Sensors aka O2 Sensors. Another way is to convert to MS43 and there are around 3-5 guys that know how to remap locally, also the price is lower, around 150-250$.

Remap will be my final mod, i was intending to swap the camshafts too for a custom ones but it is not worth the headache of finding the right alignment for me, maybe in the future but not right now. There is also a mod i haven't done, the lightweight pullies but the difference will be unoticable so i passed on it. There is also a mod that will gain around 5WHP maybe ? The M50 Manifold, my friend has it on his E60 530 M54, but you need to widen the head intake ports and change the form from D to O, you also need to delete the DISA. But for the moment too much for me :)

[DeathTrap]

285 tq? Is that in ft-lbs or Nm?

Good journey here. I believe a proper tune should net you much more than 5-10whp with your supporting mods. Have you considered an online tuner?

I was considering these guys here in the States when that time comes:

https://bimmerperformancecenter.com/products/m54-e46-zhp-dme-tuning

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[johnrando]

Those are nice numbers. The tune shld def help

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[Hornung418]

285 tq? Is that in ft-lbs or Nm?

Good journey here. I believe a proper tune should net you much more than 5-10whp with your supporting mods. Have you considered an online tuner?

I was considering these guys here in the States when that time comes:

https://bimmerperformancecenter.com/products/m54-e46-zhp-dme-tuning

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkGotta be 285 Nm. Standard 330i numbers were 300 Nm or 228lbft.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings guys,

My latest mod that i did on my ZHP is MS45 conversion to MS43 :) Finally i decided that spending 350$ just for a tune wasn't worth it, providing that i might have needed to retune it in the future and every time it would cost me 350$.

So the parts i needed for conversion:

- 2002-2003 E46 325i/330i or E53 X5 3.0 main engine wiring harness
- 2002-2005 E46 325i/330i or E53 X5 3.0 MS43 Siemens ECU, EWS, Key (all matched together and disassembled from a car)
- 2001-2005 E46 325i/330i or E53 X5 3.0 intake air temperature sensor (the MS45 manifold is the same but a screw-on dummy plug is removed for this sensor)
- 2001-2005 E46 325i/330i or E53 X5 3.0 HFM/mass air sensor
- 2001-2005 pre-cat O2 sensors (I don't install post cat sensors as i am planning on disabling it with a tune)

So i began by removing ms45 harness, MAF, EWS, ECU, O2 sensors. The one difference i came across was the alternator clip on the harness.
MS45 engine harness has a bosch plug for alternator which has a round shape, on the other hand the MS43 engine harness has a round plug for valeo alternators. I didn't want to change the alternator so what i did was, i cut off the plug from ms45 harness and paired it with ms43 engine harness (cut the round plug). Here is the tricky part. The ms45 plug has one cable attaching to the plugs whereas the ms43 has two. What i did was i matched the colors "blue" wire, the rest i think it was green i let it hang isolated with tape. The rest was just easy, what i had removed i replaced with ms43 staff. MAF, EWS, ECU, O2 Sensors. One last thing, the harness of ms43 was from an automatic x5, so there were extra cables hanging, i could have cut off but i hid everything in the ecu compartment. Take into consideration that automatic harness doesn't have a separate plug to attach it to your manual transmition so that when you reverse the rear lights come on and the passenger mirror adjust, you have to rewire an aftermarket cable to the ecu. Which i haven't done yet, when i do it i will post how. For the moment the rear reverse lights and mirror adjusting when reversing doesn't work. Also when you install an automatic ms43 ecu, the car thinks it is still automatic and rpms jump during shifting, also the cruise doesn't work you have to reflush with manual tune. After i isntalled everything, the car started with no problems. I went and asked my friend to flash a tune. We installed a manual tune that had retuned VANOS maps, better throttle response, and ignition map + 7000 rpm redline.

The cruise started working, the rpms started working as they should and it didn't jump when shifted. Only thing left is the reverse light and mirror reverse adjusting. Overall to sum up the pros and cons:

Pros:

- The disa started working, as you know ms45.1 new updated ecus have desabled it to prevent the notorious 4k rpm drop in power. Disa started working means that before 3750 rpm the disa is closed thus little air goes into the enigne bay and it is more efficient which results in better torque.
- The rpm raise after hitting the gas pedal is beast mode compared to "granny" ms45 :D
- The parts MAF, O2 Sensors, ECU are 2-3 times cheaper if needed in the future
- I can retune MS43 as every local guy has the proper soft to edit, where ms45 was limited

Cons:

For the moment none :)

If someony is interested in more details please post here and i will be glad to help.

[YoitsTmac]

Great choice. We did this for my friends E85. It’s just a no brainer. Do you want my pedal map? It’s like a spring booster. If you hold a gear and hold your foot in the same position, your rate of acceleration slowly increases, just enough to notice.

If you’ve driven a E46 328, I made the first 1/3 of the pedal resemble the sensitivity of that car better. When I went from a 328 to 330 I felt the gas pedal was so damn lazy. Let me know. My tune is stock otherwise I can help you disable 02’s and whatnot if needed


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[BerDz3nA]

Great choice. We did this for my friends E85. It’s just a no brainer. Do you want my pedal map? It’s like a spring booster. If you hold a gear and hold your foot in the same position, your rate of acceleration slowly increases, just enough to notice.

If you’ve driven a E46 328, I made the first 1/3 of the pedal resemble the sensitivity of that car better. When I went from a 328 to 330 I felt the gas pedal was so damn lazy. Let me know. My tune is stock otherwise I can help you disable 02’s and whatnot if needed


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Thank you,

I have already disabled o2 sensors and the have the pedal response remaped :)

[BerDz3nA]

---Update---

I have connected the manual gearbox to the ECU with a manual cable. I used the MS45 cable and inserted one cable into the ECU harness where the brown cable is located on the blue relay. I inserted into the brown cable behind the harness. As for the ground as you can see from the picture i have wired on the big black ground cable. After i did everything i found out that the blue relay has a ground on it. I don't exactly remember the wire numbers on the relay i think it was #6 and #2 (negative). The rear lights work, also the passenger mirror works when reversing.

Notice: If you want the passenger mirror change position automatically when reversing you will need to flash the manual tune otherwise it won't work even though you have connected the gearbox cable to the DME




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[BerDz3nA]

Long time no posts.
I post the updates. I was to a local tuner shop, Gelashvili Performace. He tuned my car, it took approximatelly 3.5 hours on mustang dyno to tune it.
Before the tune i had 231WHP and afterwards i made 240WHP. The important thing is that 231WHP was at 5600RPM and 240WHP is as far as 6900 RPM. For the moment the car is performing unstable, the ignition is self reducing when accelerating, i am planning on swapping BMW F10 Coils for my old 285 000 KM OEM Coils and i will throw the NGK Iridium 1.1MM Gap spark plugs and will tune again with George Gelashvili. I will post the details as soon as i do it.

[johnrando]

GL!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[BerDz3nA]

**************UPDATE*****************

I bought the F10 535 Coils, Delphi and NGK BKR6EIX-11. The car feels much responsive.
I will retune the vehicle around 12-19 August and will post details.

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[johnrando]

Nice that helped

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[DeathTrap]

Any updates on this one?

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[BerDz3nA]

---UPDATE---

I tuned my ZHP at George Gelashvili Performance. I am racing some cars to check the results.
At the end i will post dyno results, i haven't dynoed it yet as we tuned on dyno and then we retuned on the highway. At the dyno it showed 240 WHP but i think it should have more after we retuned it on the go. The dyno was mustang dyno.

Also check my youtube channel for some racing videos:

https://www.youtube.com/user/BerDz3nA/

[johnrando]

Cool!

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[DeathTrap]

Stay safe out there. Your progress has been excellent so far.

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[YoitsTmac]

Excellent results for a non m. Keep them coming!

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings guys, long time no update. For the moment i am taking a break, i am planning on installing the 3.38 Diff from an automatic 330, will post the results later. Just interested if the 0-220km/h will be faster. Also i am planning on regrind intake camshaft of a 330 to the specs 10.6 264 degree and will post that too soon.

[BerDz3nA]

---------------Update---------------

I installed the 3.38 diff from an automatic 330, i ran against a modded e36 328, M50 intake, 3.0 intake cam/m50b25 intake cam installed at exhaust camside, ebay headers, 68mm tb, 3.38 lsd, tuned then i ran with my diff 3.07 the 3.07 was slightly better, when i had 3.07 the 4th gear was my strongest gear when revving from 6500 to 7000 i would accelerate greatly at speed 190-210 kmh, now with the 3.38 i had to shift to 5th gear at 190-195 and i was overtaken due to it.
So i swapped back my 3.07, also it was really annoying for me the 3.38 i had to shift all the time and engine noise had risen due to high rpms.

I personally don't recommend the 3.38 neither for acceleration or for daily use. Also the mpg is worse as engine has to constantly rev. The 330 has got enough torque to deal with 3.07 and be fuel efficient.

[DeathTrap]

I saw your response on my comment about the diff.

I guess for your style of driving that it is not a good match as the gain in acceleration is not worth the extra shift, noise and MPG loss.

I have a 3.64 diff to swap in and it is extremely aggressive compared to stock.

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[BerDz3nA]

I saw your response on my comment about the diff.

I guess for your style of driving that it is not a good match as the gain in acceleration is not worth the extra shift, noise and MPG loss.

I have a 3.64 diff to swap in and it is extremely aggressive compared to stock.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

There is no gain in 3.38 against the stock 3.07 diff, i compared it against a car on a rolling start from the same speed, actually it was a bit slower than the 3.07.
The only difference it makes is from 0 mph, on the rolling there is no difference.

[ZHPizza]

There is no gain in 3.38 against the stock 3.07 diff, i compared it against a car on a rolling start from the same speed, actually it was a bit slower than the 3.07.
The only difference it makes is from 0 mph, on the rolling there is no difference.Eh yeah kind of. It increases the torque to the wheels, but not the top end power. Mine is definitely faster on an autocross course digging out of corners with the 3.38, but I'm shifting all the time. I'm dialing it back to a 3.23 this year so I still have 5% more torque over the 3.07 but it's not so aggressive. The torque bump is awesome!

[BMWCurves]

Where are you getting a 3.23 from? The ol' Bokchoy says the only E46s that had them were 325Xis

[ZHPizza]

Where are you getting a 3.23 from? The ol' Bokchoy says the only E46s that had them were 325Xis

e85 Z4 3.0si manual
Also has a finned cover and ball bearings on the output shafts instead of needle bearings (minor upgrades from the e46)

[BerDz3nA]

I agree for track use 3.07 is way too long, 3.46-3.38 will be great, 3.23 too.

[BerDz3nA]

==============UPDATE==============


Had to take time our from my project of gaining more horsepower as it turns out my engine has CO, probably the head gasket has burnt and gasses get into the water system thus the pressure increases into the system and the hoses are about to explode the radiator cap lets the excessive pressure but the water also gets out as the gasses raise the water level. The funny thing is that it only happens when i am racing, on normal driving conditions the hoses are fine. It should be a small crack in the gasket.

I have already bought the Victor Reinz cylinder head cover gasket, rubber washers and head gasket. I am waiting on my mechanic to start the engine disassembly.
There are 3 possibilities of what causes the gasses to travel into the water system:

1. Burnt head gasket thus gasses get into the water system.
2. Worn bolts that hold the cylinder head thus it cannot hold the pressure when revving up to 7000 rpm and gasses get out.
3. Crack in the Cylinder head and gasses get in the water system.

There is a possibility that all these 3 symptoms might be simultaneously :D
After the disassembly i will take the cylinder head to the workshop where i will machine test the cylinder head for pressure and possible cracks, if everything's fine i will straighten (grind) on the machine for perfect surface and assemble the engine providing that the head bolts are fine, if bolts cannot be screwed because the threat on the block is useless i will get the help of a turner and install bigger bolts 11mm probably.

Probably i will start the engine disassembly at 10.01.2020 i will post the details. After the assembly i will dyno the car as i haven't seen the gains from the ecu tune, afterwards i am planning on installing the regrinded intake cam, lift 10.2 and duration 262. I know it looks like swiss cheese but the holes don't cause a problem, a friend of mine has installed them everything's fine, he hasn't tested the performance yet. I also think of regrinding the exhaust cam to a lift of 9.7 as N52 engine all have that lift and it should work fine.

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[johnrando]

Wow, GL!

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[BerDz3nA]

Thanks,

Your signature says "gold disa" what is that ? ��

[Galapolis]

I'm assuming it's this upgraded DISA by G.A.S. https://germanautosolutions.com/store/m54-30l-disa-gold-valve/

[BerDz3nA]

I'm assuming it's this upgraded DISA by G.A.S. https://germanautosolutions.com/store/m54-30l-disa-gold-valve/

Damn 429$ for disa ? :( I am planning on buying this kit to rebuild mine.

https://www.amazon.com/1999-330Ci-330xi-VALVE-REPAIR/dp/B01GKC6MIA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=e46+disa+rebuild&qid=1578288863&sr=8-6

[ZHPizza]

Damn 429$ for disa ? :( I am planning on buying this kit to rebuild mine.

https://www.amazon.com/1999-330Ci-330xi-VALVE-REPAIR/dp/B01GKC6MIA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=e46+disa+rebuild&qid=1578288863&sr=8-6

I used this one and it was fine. Might be a little cheaper for you over there.

https://vanos-bmw.com/product/disa-bmw-repair-kit-m54-3-0-and-m56-2-5

Good luck with the rebuild!

[cornercarver]

Damn 429$ for disa ? :(
An OEM BMW DISA is only $270 at FCP Euro; https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-intake-manifold-adjuster-disa-11617544805?ads_cmpid=1586640911&ads_adid=59893888775&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298302526031&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA0svwBRBhEiwAHqKjFkwaHLlxZrQ2-Lji4M9hh5xklIVjQwv50-1v3FBSQNOI2k79pF9cfhoC2qQQAvD_BwE

...And there are cheaper alternatives, though I wouldn’t do anything but OEM for the DISA, or a high-quality rebuild kit.

[Chaplian]

Damn 429$ for disa ? :( I am planning on buying this kit to rebuild mine.

https://www.amazon.com/1999-330Ci-330xi-VALVE-REPAIR/dp/B01GKC6MIA/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=e46+disa+rebuild&qid=1578288863&sr=8-6

Their rebuild kit is actually cheaper: https://germanautosolutions.com/store/bmw-m54-30l-disa-repair-and-upgrade-kit/

And they were the ones who originally designed the fix, IIRC.

[johnrando]

Thanks,

Your signature says "gold disa" what is that ? ��

Yup. The G.A.S. one.

[BerDz3nA]

==========UPDATE=========

I bought new set of wheels :D from a local 325 owner, BBS RGR Forged :> Fronts 8.5J ET38 Rears 9J ET45, the condition is 9/10, tyres F-225/40/18 R-255/35/18, need to be changed ASAP. Main reason why i changed my AC Schnitzer Type 3 was that the rim itself is very soft and any uneven surface or ditch would mess the rim and i had to straighten it everytime, also at high speeds the steering wheels would wobble, providing that i used 15mm spacers, AC center plastic caps it was a nightmare and i decided i had enough :D also the ACs were all the same specs 8.5J ET43 these are not.

I will be selling my ACs, also great news is that the seller had coilovers too and i bought in a bargain price, 150$ :D which a steal deal.
Coilovers: Tein Street Advance Z height adjustment also stifness and smoothness, its dope. Condition 9/10

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[BerDz3nA]

====================UPDATE=======================

Greetings,

As you know my engine had CO at the weekend i went to my mechanic and disassembled the engine, turns out the head bolts (3-4 bolts) were not tightened at the right torque :| so the head wasn't pressed against the block thus the head gasket leaked in three cylinders.

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What is more frustrating is that the head bolts were all streched and one of them broke into half. Whoever rebuilt the engine before me should have changed the bolts with new ones. First i took the head at the shop to test for micro cracks, the head was fine and regrinded it to even the surface, 0.06mm was the grind. I bought Victor Reinz Head gasket, Victor Reinz Head cover gasket and Victor Reinz head cover bolt washers.

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The oil filter housing leaked so i changed the gasket with Erling OEM. I also changed the head valve seals with OEM Erling.

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Also the vanos ignition wasn't adjusted properly and we did that too. After we reassebmled the engine the car started fine, the ignition did its job the idle was perfect. I took it for a spin and the hoses are no longer under pressure when racing, no water leaks everything's like its supposed to be.

I'll take a break and i'll visit the dyno to check the AFR and HP/Torque curves. And at the end a rare information about ZHP Cams :D
Every other person comments different specs for ZHP Cams. I measured with electric measurement tool that turners use, it reads microns too.

The specs are as follow:

Intake Cam Lift: 10.0mm
Exhaust Cam Lift: 9.2mm

Yeap they differ from standard 3.0 (9.7-9.0). That's the info that is 100% tested, I also measured the M54B30 standard cams to check if the measuring tool was reading correct and it showed INTAKE 9.7MM & EXHAUST 9.0, so the results for ZHP cams are correct.

[ZHPizza]

Wow what an update!

1. The new wheels look great! I forgot how clean the silvergray sedan is

2. You didn't list it, but you used new head bolts this time, right? You're spot on that they should be replaced with any rebuild since they're torque to yield (permanently stretched)

3. I cannot believe you used those swiss cheese cams but the more I think about it I guess it really would function ok, just cause more wear on the followers with the uneven surface grinding against it.

4. How did you notice the pressure on the coolant hoses? Did you see water blowing out of the expansion tank cap or something?

5. Nice job on the measurements on the cams! Good that you could anchor your numbers by measuring the base m54b30 cam.

[DeathTrap]

Good stuff. Did you have any headwork done while it was off?

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[BerDz3nA]

Wow what an update!

1. The new wheels look great! I forgot how clean the silvergray sedan is

2. You didn't list it, but you used new head bolts this time, right? You're spot on that they should be replaced with any rebuild since they're torque to yield (permanently stretched)

3. I cannot believe you used those swiss cheese cams but the more I think about it I guess it really would function ok, just cause more wear on the followers with the uneven surface grinding against it.

4. How did you notice the pressure on the coolant hoses? Did you see water blowing out of the expansion tank cap or something?

5. Nice job on the measurements on the cams! Good that you could anchor your numbers by measuring the base m54b30 cam.




2. I used used bolts from a blown head, i checked it was good, it would have been better if i had bought new ones but in my area there is none to buy :)

3. I didn't use grinded cams (swiss ones) and reinstalled the zhps as it turned out the lift was bigger then m54b30s

4. After i raced some cars the coolant hose was so hard you would believe it was about to explode, also after i changed my rev limit from 6800 to 7000 rpm the car started blowing water from the radiator cap, as the compression was higher at high rpms more gasses travelled in the water system. But i also went and measured CO level in water system to 100% make sure it head gasket problems, the CO level was way too high.

[BerDz3nA]

Good stuff. Did you have any headwork done while it was off?

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The previous owner has done head porting.

[johnrando]

Def nice werk/progress.

[BerDz3nA]

Here's a rolling race after the engine rebuilt. I raced a E34 3.0 Stroker, high compression engine, 4.0 TB, Ebay headers, tuned 7200 rpm, weight reduction (no rear bumper, no rear seats), 3.23 diff, S52 cams

https://youtu.be/YV71DYylBsU
https://youtu.be/nId-UdcOD6k

Next i will visit the dyno to check out the AFR,HP and Torque curves.

[ZHPizza]

Lol I love that you get your baseline comparisons via Georgian highway drag racing and then do dyno checks just to see. Really provides a different look at modifications and makes sense as to why the taller differential (that all of us love for low speed driving) didn't do anything for you.

[BerDz3nA]

Lol I love that you get your baseline comparisons via Georgian highway drag racing and then do dyno checks just to see. Really provides a different look at modifications and makes sense as to why the taller differential (that all of us love for low speed driving) didn't do anything for you.

Thanks for the support and positive feedback :happydane

[BerDz3nA]

===============UPDATE==================

I ran againt a Skyline 3.5 A/T 232WHP, before i had done head gasket job it was a draw or sometimes i would outrun him by a bit. With the new rebuilt engine the Skyline beat me hard, the difference was about 3-4 car in between him and me :( I had my friend follow us and he noticed smoke coming from my exhaust when shifted or hit high rpm, then i checked when i stopped the car hit the limiter at 7000 rpm and black smokes came. My AFR is 100% rich, I though i had leaks in my vacuum system i ran a leak tests but it is fine, i also checked the fuel rack pressure it is 3.8 bars which is the same as it used to be. I know everyone reports 3.5 bars but my fuel pump isn't oem and pulls much more pressure that should be the reason for being higher then the oem. I also ran diagnostics BMW Scanner, INPA, Rheingold but the isn't a problem or error. So the only option is to check my AFR and run some tests with the logger attached to the exhaust which i am planning on doing the next weekend at a local tuner where i tuned my car, George Gelashvili @ https://www.facebook.com/GelashviliPerformance/

First we will check the logs and then retune it, i will post the results.

[BerDz3nA]

==============UPDATE==============

I was at the local tuner George Gelashvili yesterday, we attached a wideband AFR reader and observed the car stats via Romraider, it turns out my car runs on 91 map :| Now the reason George explained was that when i had CO the internal combustion compression was lower thus it allowed him to raise the ignition, when i solved the problem and compression rose, the high ignition resulted in detonation and ECU switched from 98 map to 91 for engine precaution, thus i couldn't benefit from 98 fuel and my ignition maps were low and had fewer HP. George decreased the ignition by 1.5 degree at the 98 map and the car started running on 98 map. He made some changes on the VANOS maps too according to the ignition and everything ran fine. The AFR before he did anything was fine steady 13 (AFR). Yesterday i ran with some cars to check the results.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=969v5Y9cfYA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m458zfqA_Vc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-nQWj7mURA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Emt09g-bQjI

Before i had done the head gasket job the 328 used to overtake me now it's draw :) So the retune worked. I am planning on dynoing the car for the results and i will let you know.

[Phillips0417]

Tackling this soon. I'll be installing my TS3 engine into my ZHP and converting to MS43. I have all the required harnesses so I won't be re-pinning the MS45.1 coil pack harness.

A couple of things I'm still not clear about***********:

1.) Is there any re-pinning of X60004 required? This should be the BODY HARNESS, if I'm not mistaken. I will plug this harness directly from my ZHP chassis, into the MS43 DME.
2.) I'm very nervous about tuning or coding the DME to my car. Do I have to write my VIN to the MS43 in order for it to start and run? I don't want to lose my TS3 tune. It already has EWS delete.

I'm sure there will be more questions but that's where I'm at right now. Thanks for any feedback. I'm looking forward to my TS3 ZHP.

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings, I dynoed my car with the latest retune, here are the results:
The dyno curves are bad due to the dyno it had technical issues, also i doubt the AFR reading is correct 13.8-14.2 is way too lean.
As for the WHP i think it is correct considering my previous results.

The dyno is Dyno Dynamics, I will run on a different dyno soon, a Mustang Dyno and will post the results. I used Dyno Dynamics because all the tests previously were done on it, so there was no point in switching dynos in between i wouldn't be able to compare the numbers, now that i have finished the engine mods will try the mustang dyno.

214.8WHP @ 6800RPM

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[johnrando]

:thumbsup

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[BerDz3nA]

Hi guys,

Today i cleaned my injectors at a local service shop. The machine was LAUNCH, they weren't exactly at bad shape but it gave a bit difference in filling the machine cylinders.

The Machine:

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Just filling before cleaning:

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Already cleaned and filling:

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You can notice after i cleaned them the 5th fills up a bit less than others but it is minor and i didn't change the injector. The previous results were much different between the injectors. For a 187 500 mile injectors not a bad result :) Take into consideration that after you have cleaned the injectors and try to start the engine it will need much more effort and engine needs to be rotated way more before the injectors fill up with gasoline and don't panic after the engine has started it goes away. As for the feelings you won't notice if yours is in that condition, there were no symptoms or whatsoever i just did the cleaning just to sleep well so to say :D

[BerDz3nA]

I also did the sound deadening if anybody is interested i will post the pics for details. I used a sound deadening material that is used with house/office/building ventilation inventories, the thickness was 9mm and was sound / vibration / heat proof. No only it will minimize the noise coming from outside but also will keep the inside temperature steady and won't let outside interfere that much.

Okay back to business, I did the rear seat, underneath the alkantara as it is the noisiest of all. Then I did all four doors, I installed the material inside the door itself behind the glass as the steel door is too thin and i would get the most of the material also the door itself has oem deading material and it is double the effect. I also did the trunk and wheel arches as it is the second noisiest piece. Overall the car has changed dramatically, it is more like a BMW E39 comfortwise :D
Another benefit that i noticed is the sound quality of the HK, as there are 6 speakers in front doors and 2 tweets in the rear the base is more firm and high quality.

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This is unfinished I was short in material i will finish it afterwards.

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[johnrando]

Nice werk. Interesting re injectors.

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[Prestovie]

Dang you're thorough, good stuff

[BerDz3nA]

What is up ? Recently i found a guy was selling his supersprint catback muffler :O I contacted him and immediately made the purchase :D There was no way i was missing that, with a stealdeal price of 100$ :O i know right :D The muffler was not in its best shape but i took care of it with a polishing thing, i don't even know what you call these :D Green Thing. The muffler was way bigger than i imagined it would be, i used to own a E39 with a supersprint muffler but the 330 is HUGE (trump voice) :D Considering that in Georgia is quarantine i will be installing later after everything ends.

As for part number details, here is a link:

https://www.supersprint.com/ww-en/bmw-e46/supersprint-performance-sport-exhaust-for-bmw-e46-330i/rear-exhaust-oo-80-v10.aspx#!/

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[fredo]

That's shiny !

[DeathTrap]

Everyone is polishing things lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[BerDz3nA]

Wazzup :D

I decided to manufacture the break intake scoop by my own for my Gruppe M as i am tired of demounting the headlight everytime i race. I used two PVC tubes, one a 45 degree and the other a 90 degree with a diameter of 100mm. I relocated the 90 degree tube in the left brake intake tube, the pvc intake diameter is 110mm and the rest is 100mm from which it connect to the 45 remanufactured tube which has a 100mm diameter and they both act as a shield to direct the cold air to the Gruppe M intake. The base that i used is from the Dinan intake tube but as the Gruppe M intake has a strange form of carbon i couldn't directly connect the tube to the Gruppe M, so i made a "shield" :)

As for the results i have tested in the daily use. The pros are:

1. The tube acts as a sound amplifier, after the Gruppe M makes a V8 roaring sound :D it is directed in the tube and amplifies it, thus a lot of Gruppe M noise is sounded from outside and the car sound like a V8 :D performance wise it is more responsive and accelerates freely, before that there was no way the Groupe M would breath as it is against the headlight. Soon i will race against some cars that i knew the results without headlight and i will compare it with the scoop. In my view the scoop will not have as much effect as it used to breath without headlight but this should be compensated above 150km/h as the aerodinamics with headlight are better and 150km/h - 230km/h should be no worse than it used to be with headlightless, but the fact will show itself :)

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[BMWCurves]

Hmmm...very interesting.

[John in VA]

Wazzup :D
I decided to manufacture the break intake scoop by my own for my Gruppe M as i am tired of demounting the headlight everytime i race.
Nice work - add some red & it'll be even better/faster/louder!

[ZHP_Brandon]

I’ve considered doing something similar, I have H-style fog light covers and was going to buy the proper diameter brake duct hose from SummitRacing.com and route it similarly with some small rivets.

Interested in some videos/sound clips.

So happy I got my hands on GruppeM now lol


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[johnrando]

Oh that is COOL!

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[BerDz3nA]

Check out my Flickr, some random pics of my car :)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/187906608@N05/?

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[BerDz3nA]

-------UPDATE---------

Today i installed the supersprint muffler, it is a fine piece of art :D The sound for me is pretty much the same as the ZHP but friends tell me it is more aggresive :D IDK. Check out my flickr account for pictures.

Flickr @ https://www.flickr.com/photos/187906608@N05/with/49901364873/

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[ApexHitter]

Looks very good. Thinking this will be the muffler for the ZHP I eventually get.

[t.er]

Man that SS muffler was such a steal... jealous!

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings long time no update. I've been trying to solve the problem that i've been having since last 2 months, when racing timing is lowered about 3-4 degrees, 5200/5500/5800/6000 RPMS only. I have changed MAF, Knock Sensors, Sparks but no change.

[BerDz3nA]

===========UPDATE============

I still haven't figured out what the problem is, i took the DME off to check it and had some oil in the wire where it connects onto the DME, i cleaned it but no change. The thing that i observed is that when i race for the first time the ignition is close to 29-30 degrees at max rpm, after some racing it goes back to 21-22 which is a serious drop in hp. For the moment i have postponed the matter and did the O2Pilot Mod as i have been experiencing some oil burn, around 3-5 litres per 8000 km. I will be observing to see if oil burning changes, if not then i will look for new engine block and rebuilt it on a M52TU oil ring. After i solve the oil problem i will continue to investigate on the ignition problem, i will be tuning the car without the MAF on my own and will let you know the results.

[BerDz3nA]

===========UPDATE============

I ran mafless the ignition results were better but had some drops but far less than with MAF, the only drawback was that it ran 26-27 degrees which is lower that it used to 29-30. To sum up mafless is not the way to go. For the moment i am observing the oil level and don't have time to far investigate into ignition. As soon as i find the time i will check coil ignition, DME, Camshaft sensors

[BerDz3nA]

==============O2Pilot Update===============

So far i've clocked 4000 km and have added 1 liter of 5/40.
Will post the results when i hit 8000 km.

[BerDz3nA]

==============O2Pilot Update===============

I've clocked 7500km still the same level of oil at the stick �� Looks like the mod has worked.

[BerDz3nA]

==============O2Pilot Update===============

8500km so far, my oil change is overdue :facepalm The same level at the stick.
The mod has worked 100%, yesterday i made some extreme pulls, the car was under full load for 7-8 runs 0-200km/h despite i am late at oil change the engine didnt make any ticking noises nor the level dropped.

==============Ignition and AFR Update===============

Yesterday i used a different gas brand for the first time, to eliminate the cause of fuel. To my surprise the logger showed better ignition results, it would run 28 degree tops sometimes would drop 3-4 degrees but would come back to the top value, previously it used to run 26-27 tops and then 21-22 and couldn't increase the value. My good friend Akaki at the ETS (Link for the tuning shop: https://www.facebook.com/Euro-Tuning-Solutions-115584733591996) retuned my AFR, previously the car would run 12.5 and after some pulls it would stabilize at 12 untill 6000rpm and 11.5-11.9 past 6000rpm until 7000rpm, no matter what we did with the tune values would not change, this time things changed, the car runs at a stable range of 13.0-13.5, the power is felt past 5500rpm, better acceleration. Next week I will run some tests for the timing values now that i have a stable and perfect AFR for maximum HP.

Please note that better ignition probably resulted from different fuel because my friend only changed the fuel maps but better and stable AFR has resulted from my friend tuning the car properly, it has nothing to do with fuel.

[BerDz3nA]

Greetings,

Check out my buddy's facebook group page, he's a tuner, recently we built a high compression m54b30 that output 316HP :guns
If anybody is in need of a remote tune on any E46 ECU MS42, MS43 MS45 my buddy will help you.

https://www.facebook.com/NarmaniA-AutoMotive-115584733591996/

N/A tuned BMW E46 330i, M/T5, MS43 316HP(268WHP)
Mods:
M54B25 Pistons
M54B30 Crankshaft & Rods
Compression Value 12.0
M50 Intake Manifold
M62B48 TB
Cold Air Intake Boot
K/N Intake Filter
Supersprint Replica Headers
Ported Head
Grinded Camshafts (10.5 264 & 10.0 256)
fuel 98ron (93 octane)
Unfortunately the results was achieved on stock M54B30 injectors which limited the outcome.
The engine was hand built by Temo Todua and tuned by Akaki Narmania


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjcxSbGh6pE

[BerDz3nA]

====UPDATE======

As you know i recently did the O2Pilot mod, thought it worked but at the end it did 0 work. The car burnt oil as it used to do, i must have
misread the dipstick.

I took the engine apart and i am rebuilding it with M52 Oil rings and i might as well built it as a high compression engine, will see about that.
Soon will post the ongoing details.

[BerDz3nA]

====UPDATE======

I rebuilt my engine, the block was not in its best condition so i bought a new (used) one, i did honing, i also enlarged the ports on the head and built a high compression engine with M54B25 pistons, M54B30 rods+M54B30 crankshaft. As i mentioned earlier i bought m54b30 pistons rings and m52 pistons rings too, i installed the m52 oil rings and m54b30 compression rings, as there is a massive difference in oil rings. I used to own a E39 523 which uses m52tub25 and i didn't have oil problems, that's why i decided to assemble the same spec rings. I also installed the M50 intake manifold, with 4.8 throttle body, as i am planning on installing bigger cams in the future. I also changed my vanos, as it had grinded and wasn't functional, i rebuilt the new one with good seals. I installed E46 M3 oil pump chain tensioner as i rev 7000rpm and make sure nothing falls apart.
As for the parts i changed every bit of part that an engine uses:


piston rings
rod bearing
crankshaft bearings
head gasket
cover gasket
oil pan gasket
chain tensioner
guide rail
valve steams
oil filter housing gasket
timing case gasket
crankshaft seal gasket

The car runs smooth, i installed the M54B30 CCV valve, at the moment i have clocked 300km, i'll be running 1000km in total and afterwards i will have the DME tuned.

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[YoitsTmac]

Exciting build! What strup bar is that by the way?


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[BerDz3nA]

Exciting build! What strup bar is that by the way?


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Don't know exactly, It came with the car when i bought it.
There's no manufacturer written on it.

[Galapolis]

Impressive amount of work! I'm surprised you didn't go with lightweight Mahle pistons given your performance goals. Can you elaborate on the M3 oil chain tensioner install? I thought you had to drill into the block to install a tensioner in that position.

[BerDz3nA]

Impressive amount of work! I'm surprised you didn't go with lightweight Mahle pistons given your performance goals. Can you elaborate on the M3 oil chain tensioner install? I thought you had to drill into the block to install a tensioner in that position.

Thank you

One of the main reasons why i went with M54B25 was the price, I bought used ones for 30$ compared to mahle 920$, the piston itself is 280gr, mahle ones are rated at 304gr, interesting if this weight is the piston itself or the piston + pin. Also interesting factor is the bore, m54b25 bore is 83.99mm whereas mahle is 84.127mm it 99% will need block boring.

As for the M3 chain tensioner, I had to drill two holes one for mounting the tensioner itself and the second one for it to be tensioned. As for the template I did it by myself, pressed the tensioner onto the chain took marks with a marker and drilled + made threat onto it.

Feel free to ask furthermore questions

[SoCalZman]

What was wrong with the block that made you get rid of it?

[BerDz3nA]

What was wrong with the block that made you get rid of it?

The cylinder had scratch lines and had formed an elypse shape in the middle.
If i hadn't changed it, it would burn oil

[BerDz3nA]

Guys I've sold my ZHP and bought a 2009 335 E90.
If anything please ask questions will be happy to answer no matter i don't own a ZHP :D

[san]

Guys I've sold my ZHP and bought a 2009 335 E90.
If anything please ask questions will be happy to answer no matter i don't own a ZHP :D

Congrats!


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[BerDz3nA]

Congrats!


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Thanks :cheers

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[san]

Thanks :cheers

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I really like the facelift e90 msport trim.
Looks really good!

MY2009 would still be N54, right?

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[BerDz3nA]

I really like the facelift e90 msport trim.
Looks really good!

MY2009 would still be N54, right?

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Yes it is the latest production N54 in sedans 2009

[fredo]

Congrats, sir! How many miles on the clock?

[johnrando]

Congrats, enjoy!

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