90k maintenance?

[phillipjfry]

Hey all, I'm at around 87k, starting to think about maintances coming up.

What do you guys do, or suggest for 90k?

I know I need new rear rotors/pads. Already did the rear diff, and MTF at 82k. Control arms have new bushings already.

Thank you.

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[san]

It would help if you post the maintenance history. But something obvious to replace would be the cooling system (minus the radiator, they last a little while longer)...


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[Newjack]

Cooling system

[BMWCurves]

Previous maintenance history is important to give context. But the usual things to consider if they haven't been replaced:
- Spark plugs
- Pulleys and belts
- Cooling system
- Fuel filter
- VCG if it's leaking (and might as well do VANOS seals while you have it open)
- OFHG if it's leaking
- Suspension components
- Many more...

[phillipjfry]

It would help if you post the maintenance history. But something obvious to replace would be the cooling system (minus the radiator, they last a little while longer)...


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHistory is unknown when I bought it. Almost zero leaks, except a small coolant leak somewhere.
Other than that runs, and drives great. Zero issues.

I've read the coolant system should be done. Thats not too bad, around 250$. I was thinking spark plugs too.

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[phillipjfry]

Previous maintenance history is important to give context. But the usual things to consider if they haven't been replaced:
- Spark plugs
- Pulleys and belts
- Cooling system
- Fuel filter
- VCG if it's leaking (and might as well do VANOS seals while you have it open)
- OFHG if it's leaking
- Suspension components
- Many more...Good call on the fuel filter. Didnt even think of that.

Vcg is fine, no reason to crack it. Suspension is tight.

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[BMWCurves]

Suspension may feel tight because of the car is generally stiffly sprung, but if it's all original components, it'd be worth replacing the shocks/struts and the bushings. My car felt "tight" when I had it at 50k miles and 13 years old, but when I replaced the shocks/struts, they were all dead. They would not rebound.

Here's what I replaced: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16182-Help-with-Suspension-Refresh-at-50k-miles-10-years

[phillipjfry]

Suspension may feel tight because of the car is generally stiffly sprung, but if it's all original components, it'd be worth replacing the shocks/struts and the bushings. My car felt "tight" when I had it at 50k miles and 13 years old, but when I replaced the shocks/struts, they were all dead. They would not rebound.

Here's what I replaced: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16182-Help-with-Suspension-Refresh-at-50k-miles-10-yearsNot sure if they have been replaced or not. Probably not though. At this time with suspension, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just had a baby last month, short on time!

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[phillipjfry]

So far I'm doing the FCP Euro coolant kit, Mann fuel filter, ngk plugs, rear brake pads, possibly rear rotors.

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[Newjack]

History is unknown when I bought it. Almost zero leaks, except a small coolant leak somewhere.
Other than that runs, and drives great. Zero issues.

I've read the coolant system should be done. Thats not too bad, around 250$. I was thinking spark plugs too.

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FYI I wouldn't buy anything but OEM parts when it comes to the cooling system. Yes the expansion tank is a stress point, but its very safe to assume it will last at least 50k or 5 years.

Also if you go with FCP good luck getting parts that aren't shipped broken.

[phillipjfry]

FYI I wouldn't buy anything but OEM parts when it comes to the cooling system. Yes the expansion tank is a stress point, but its very safe to assume it will last at least 50k or 5 years.

Also if you go with FCP good luck getting parts that aren't shipped broken.I'm not a purest. Not OEM have always served me well on 95% of the applications. Thank you though. What company would you suggest?

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[Newjack]

I'm not a purest. Not OEM have always served me well on 95% of the applications. Thank you though. What company would you suggest?

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I understand, and in most cases getting a non oem part will do, but there are certain areas of the car I just don't want to risk it. Cooling system being one of them.

I would recommend literally any other vendor out there.

[phillipjfry]

I understand, and in most cases getting a non oem part will do, but there are certain areas of the car I just don't want to risk it. Cooling system being one of them.

I would recommend literally any other vendor out there.Is it the hoses, the expansion tank, wp, thermostat that are all inferior?

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[Newjack]

Is it the hoses, the expansion tank, wp, thermostat that are all inferior?

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I'm not sure what you mean.

The OEM parts on our cars are almost always the best thing you can replace the original parts with. The fitment is factory, the quality is high and you know exactly what you're getting. There are a few parts here and there that are arguably (some factually) better than OEM parts. Things like the G.A.S. coolant cap, G.A.S. DISA rebuild kit, Stett boots, viton gaskets etc.

The expansion tank on the E46 is known to have issues. They fail quicker than they should, because of the high pressure of the cooling system, and the fact that the expansion tank is made of plastic, it tends to crack over time. This is why whenever anyone says "I have a coolant leak and I'm not sure where" everyone suggests the expansion tank first. With that being said, there aren't many other options out there for non OEM expansion tanks, and as long as you replace your expansion tank preventatively, you shouldn't ever get stranded on the side of the road.

The rest of the OEM cooling system parts are fine and I would highly recommend using OEM parts primarily because if a cooling system part fails, your engine can potentially overheat, and the M54 does not enjoy heat at all. The heads will warp very quickly under high heat without proper coolant.

Things like washer fluid pumps, tail lights, anything aesthetic or not critical to the motor or trans are usually what people consider to be fine when replacing OEM parts with non OEM parts. If you buy non OEM front control arm bushings and they fail prematurely, your motor won't explode and your trans will be fine. You will just have to enjoy a shitty driving experience until they get replaced. No biggie.

At the end of the day it's your car and you can do whatever you want to it. Not everyone is made of money and sometimes we have to cut some corners. I'm just giving my two cents about what corners are the least destructive to the well being of the car.

[phillipjfry]

I'm not sure what you mean.

The OEM parts on our cars are almost always the best thing you can replace the original parts with. The fitment is factory, the quality is high and you know exactly what you're getting. There are a few parts here and there that are arguably (some factually) better than OEM parts. Things like the G.A.S. coolant cap, G.A.S. DISA rebuild kit, Stett boots, viton gaskets etc.

The expansion tank on the E46 is known to have issues. They fail quicker than they should, because of the high pressure of the cooling system, and the fact that the expansion tank is made of plastic, it tends to crack over time. This is why whenever anyone says "I have a coolant leak and I'm not sure where" everyone suggests the expansion tank first. With that being said, there aren't many other options out there for non OEM expansion tanks, and as long as you replace your expansion tank preventatively, you shouldn't ever get stranded on the side of the road.

The rest of the OEM cooling system parts are fine and I would highly recommend using OEM parts primarily because if a cooling system part fails, your engine can potentially overheat, and the M54 does not enjoy heat at all. The heads will warp very quickly under high heat without proper coolant.

Things like washer fluid pumps, tail lights, anything aesthetic or not critical to the motor or trans are usually what people consider to be fine when replacing OEM parts with non OEM parts. If you buy non OEM front control arm bushings and they fail prematurely, your motor won't explode and your trans will be fine. You will just have to enjoy a shitty driving experience until they get replaced. No biggie.

At the end of the day it's your car and you can do whatever you want to it. Not everyone is made of money and sometimes we have to cut some corners. I'm just giving my two cents about what corners are the least destructive to the well being of the car.I was talking about which OE supplier parts that are inferior.

Yeah, OEM parts are the best, some times. But they are also the cheapest possible part manufactured cost to cut costs for the 100's of thousands of vehicals that part is going to go on. It's called value engineering. It's also not the 80's anymore. There are tons of manufacturers that the same parts to OE specs, for a fraction of the cost. Mostly due to labor agreements, and the cost of such a large inferstructor.

Usually the only parts I do buy 100% of the time, are any electronic widget, sensor, crap like that.

I do appreciate the input, I'll do a little more reading on the quality of the the parts I buy.

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