Style 135 color change and a couple questions

[Kimber]

I've been debating about buying new wheels and going square setup for some time now. I love our 135's and it's one of the reasons I bought the car. I have a '06 titanium silver convertible and the stock silver color is just too much silver for me. I don't want black, but something in the grey or anthracite category.

So here are my questions for you guys:

I know there is a performance gain by going with new, lighter, wheels, but I REALLY love our wheel style and am really thinking I am going to keep them. I am looking for anyone that will talk me out of keeping the stock staggered setup. So many people seem to be going square, but from what I have been told/read its more of a track thing, and I will never be racing my car. So stay staggered, or go square?

For the center caps, do you guys have the rears that are flat and the fronts that are sort of bubble out? I'm wondering if the PO lost a couple and bought 2 new stye ones for the front and left the flat style on the rear wheels? I'll try to put pics up later, but my rear "flat style" have like a lip of aluminum around the edge that isn't looking to nice. So maybe i just switch them all to the same. Anyone know the cheapest place to get them?

How about the M stickers, anyone know a cheap replacement, as I have a couple missing.

Is there a benefit to getting a kit like ECS sells for the wheel bolt replacement to studs other than ease of mounting the wheel easier? Here is what i found for $120 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/wheel-stud-conversion-kit-full-set/001467ecs08kt/), but its not like I am switching wheels all the time, so if that's the only benefit, then I will stick with my bolts I have now. I do like the black lug nuts though since I am switching my wheel color to a darker color.

I'm also getting new Michelin's as well and wanted to know do we have sensors in our wheels? I know there is that button under the radio, but honestly never read up on what it does. Can someone fill me in on what I might need to replace inside the wheel?

Thanks everyone!

[KevinC]

I have a silver coupe. I love the 135's too - despite the fact that they're so damn heavy, and difficult to clean. I solved the latter problem by switching to Akebono brake pads early on - they stay clean as a whistle now.

Personally, I think darker wheels would look awful on your car. If I'm in your shoes, I stay stock. These cars are getting older, and the desirable ones are the ones that have a 100% stock appearance at this point. Pretty much holds true for all cars as they age, especially cars like ours. The 135's are part of what makes a ZHP, a ZHP. A big part of it since that wheel wasn't used on any other USA-bound BMW.

Pretty sure there are no sensors in your wheels even though it's an '06. E46's didn't have them, they started in the '06 model year with the E90. But yours is a late carryover E46, so I doubt they were added - someone else should be able to confirm.

[fredo]

I'm pretty sure no ZHP came with the factory with TPMS sensors. But I heard you can retrofit them in some way. I had an early e90 (2006 330i) and it didn't come with such sensors.

[Sreten]

Not the best picture, but my first ZHP 330Ci auto had factory equipped TPMS.

https://s28.postimg.org/6h9fvxiwp/image.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6h9fvxiwp/)

If you don't have this button, then you probably don't have it.

[Dual]

Sreten: I'm not so sure that BMW wasn't fitting a proprietary tire pressure monitoring system as opposed to TPMS. I have something from BMW monitoring the tire pressure on my car. There are a few pages in the manual which discuss a "Flat Tire Monitor", going back as far as 2004, I believe.

I found asian knockoffs of the tiny ///M stickers on CL or Amazon: weren't hard to locate. EDIT: here you go (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQ7RBO/).

My Alpine white has a staggered set, painted BMW B39 Mineral Gray Metallic, which appear darker here 'cause I like to push "Clarity" in Lightroom. While I don't want to wade into the "tastes great/less filling" debate I will say my wheels look clean pretty much all the time.

[anandoc]

There are no TPMS sensors in the wheels on our cars. The TPMS works via the DSC system through the wheel spin sensors. You can check out this DIY for retrofitting the TPMS system:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11072-OEM-TPMS-Retrofit-The-full-package-doityourself

[Sreten]

You are right. Correct name for it would be 251 Run Flat Indicator using VIN decoder.

I guess that and TMPS are two different things. Learn something new everyday. :)

[Kimber]

Sreten: I'm not so sure that BMW wasn't fitting a proprietary tire pressure monitoring system as opposed to TPMS. I have something from BMW monitoring the tire pressure on my car. There are a few pages in the manual which discuss a "Flat Tire Monitor", going back as far as 2004, I believe.

I found asian knockoffs of the tiny ///M stickers on CL or Amazon: weren't hard to locate. EDIT: here you go (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQ7RBO/).

My Alpine white has a staggered set, painted BMW B39 Mineral Gray Metallic, which appear darker here 'cause I like to push "Clarity" in Lightroom. While I don't want to wade into the "tastes great/less filling" debate I will say my wheels look clean pretty much all the time.

Thanks for the link, I saw some stuff on there as well, just didn't know if its a crap shoot finding decent quality stuff. I might get some center caps from ebay as well for cheap, as the OEM ones are crazy $$ for some plastic and a BMW sticker. LOL

I actually took them to Costco today and popped the tires off, no sensors, but i do have that button, so it seems everyone is correct about having the wheel spin monitor it. At least that saves me some money getting new sensors. :)

[Kimber]

I have a silver coupe. I love the 135's too - despite the fact that they're so damn heavy, and difficult to clean. I solved the latter problem by switching to Akebono brake pads early on - they stay clean as a whistle now.

Personally, I think darker wheels would look awful on your car. If I'm in your shoes, I stay stock. These cars are getting older, and the desirable ones are the ones that have a 100% stock appearance at this point. Pretty much holds true for all cars as they age, especially cars like ours. The 135's are part of what makes a ZHP, a ZHP. A big part of it since that wheel wasn't used on any other USA-bound BMW.

Pretty sure there are no sensors in your wheels even though it's an '06. E46's didn't have them, they started in the '06 model year with the E90. But yours is a late carryover E46, so I doubt they were added - someone else should be able to confirm.

I get ya about keeping it stock for resale, but I am keeping this car for a LONG time. I have pretty much refreshed every part on this car and have YCW coilovers that are being finished up and hopefully done within the month.

The thread a couple down from this one about color change has a titanium vert just like mine and his color is a little too dark for me, but something like that is what I am going for. Stock is just too much silver for me. LOL

[johnrando]

You can get good M stickers on ebay. Staggered wheels promote understeer, you don't need that. Plus, you get a bit more rotation ability with square. For sensors, you don't need to replace anything.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Kimber]

So Costco has ordered the Michelin Pilot Super Sport in stock staggered size for me. They took the old tires off for me already (the car is on jack stands in my driveway) so I can drop the wheels off at the paint shop on Monday. The guy said he should have wheels done in about a week, and Costco said the tires should be delivered in about a week, so hopefully it comes together nicely. Just have to see what color I want on Monday now.

So what do you guys think about those ECS stud kit? Worth the money? And then I can get black nuts and everything will look nice and new.

[johnrando]

If you take off wheels frequently or just like the looks, yes. If not, you can pass.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Kimber]

You can get good M stickers on ebay. Staggered wheels promote understeer, you don't need that. Plus, you get a bit more rotation ability with square. For sensors, you don't need to replace anything.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yeah I think I will go thru and take some time on ebay and get new center caps and M stickers from some chinese knock off place. OEM is just not worth the dollars! LOL

I have read so many things back and forth on square vs staggered. I like the rotation aspect, but I also heard/read you get a lot more tramlining with square. Handling with the stock setup is supposed to be a tad better for daily spirited driving as well. But again everyone has their opinions.

At this point I am just going to stick with staggered and maybe in a couple years when I get bored with the color change, I'll switch to new wheels completely.

I'm very indecisive, and if I think on this any longer I will bag the whole idea. LOL

[Kimber]

If you take off wheels frequently or just like the looks, yes. If not, you can pass.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks John, I do like the black nuts compared to the silver lug bolts I have now, especially going to a darker wheel color.

Do I get the regular size ones, or get the ones that are longer for wheel spacers? I don't really know why people use wheels spacers and haven't researched that yet. But is there a reason I might want spacers down the road?

[Sreten]

Having had wheel spacers, I can't imagine it without them. Simple upgrade and yet the car looks so much aggressive. I would highly recommend them!

First pic without spacers and the second one with.

https://s27.postimg.org/dsmhseuqn/20170125_115349.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/dsmhseuqn/) https://s27.postimg.org/6vwwtmntr/20170125_121149.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6vwwtmntr/)

https://s27.postimg.org/5yqhkrcbj/20170125_195137.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/5yqhkrcbj/) https://s27.postimg.org/e6x0jhtlr/20170125_195148.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/e6x0jhtlr/) https://s27.postimg.org/h3k1jrzfj/20170125_195217.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/h3k1jrzfj/)

More details and pics in my old build thread - http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19523-Adventures-of-Titanium-Silver-e46-330Ci-ZHP&p=516293#post516293

[johnrando]

YW. Longer studs for spacers. Spacers are essentially for looks, especially if you are lowered. Some would say a wider wheel base is better but that's not really what spacers are about. Some would say with spacers you are adding a potential issue but really unless under constant extreme driving, they shouldn't change anything other than looks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Sreten]

If you do buy wheels spacers, they usually come with longer studs.

Found some pictures that might help you. These are Black Chrome powder coated wheels according to the owner.

https://s3.postimg.org/u00hm1a5b/0c41e665-7df3-4457-a61e-bbf1a7b9d5c62.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/u00hm1a5b/) https://s3.postimg.org/r77a209sv/691ce674-218a-4b71-a429-1b1c8daf0b482.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/r77a209sv/) https://s3.postimg.org/6ocdwxvvj/48643197-142c-48a1-9581-1f1b491c52412.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6ocdwxvvj/) https://s3.postimg.org/p56snrbtr/acd2ed3c-8cbf-4fae-8e89-b666a8e829602.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/p56snrbtr/)

Older thread about stock wheel color change:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16256-Style-135-modifications-color-change

Maybe combine these 2 threads together?

[Kimber]

If you do buy wheels spacers, they usually come with longer studs.

Found some pictures that might help you. These are Black Chrome powder coated wheels according to the owner.

https://s3.postimg.org/u00hm1a5b/0c41e665-7df3-4457-a61e-bbf1a7b9d5c62.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/u00hm1a5b/) https://s3.postimg.org/r77a209sv/691ce674-218a-4b71-a429-1b1c8daf0b482.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/r77a209sv/) https://s3.postimg.org/6ocdwxvvj/48643197-142c-48a1-9581-1f1b491c52412.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6ocdwxvvj/) https://s3.postimg.org/p56snrbtr/acd2ed3c-8cbf-4fae-8e89-b666a8e829602.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/p56snrbtr/)

Older thread about stock wheel color change:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16256-Style-135-modifications-color-change

Maybe combine these 2 threads together?

Yup thats what I am looking for, something in that range, not too dark, but darker than stock.

[Kimber]

Having had wheel spacers, I can't imagine it without them. Simple upgrade and yet the car looks so much aggressive. I would highly recommend them!

First pic without spacers and the second one with.

https://s27.postimg.org/dsmhseuqn/20170125_115349.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/dsmhseuqn/) https://s27.postimg.org/6vwwtmntr/20170125_121149.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/6vwwtmntr/)

https://s27.postimg.org/5yqhkrcbj/20170125_195137.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/5yqhkrcbj/) https://s27.postimg.org/e6x0jhtlr/20170125_195148.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/e6x0jhtlr/) https://s27.postimg.org/h3k1jrzfj/20170125_195217.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/h3k1jrzfj/)

More details and pics in my old build thread - http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19523-Adventures-of-Titanium-Silver-e46-330Ci-ZHP&p=516293#post516293

I see now, I guess I never knew really. In your thread you said you would have gone bigger, but did you ever?

They seem like a lot of money for a small plate of steel, but I guess if they come with studs, that $120 i would have spent could go towards spacers now.

So it seems the consensus is 10mm front and 12.5mm rear? Does it matter what brand?

Thanks so much! (oh and thanks for making me want a new exhaust now as well after hearing yours in your thread!! LOL)

[Sreten]

With the ZHP you can always find a way to spend money! Corsa exhaust and M3 seats are also a must. :biggrin

Never went bigger, unfortunately I had to sell the car, but I did want to try 15 mm in the back.

704sw went 12.5 mm front and 15 mm rear on his Estoril blue coupe. - http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19408-Estoril-Coupe-or-How-I-Learned-to-Import-a-Unicorn&p=517969#post517969

Just stay clear from cheap, no name chinese spacers. I went with Precision European Motorwerks spacers.
Build quality seemed solid and price was all right. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-12mm-5x120-Wheel-Spacers-72-6-10-Black-Lug-Bolts-BMW-E60-E90-E92-E36-E46-/281409961145?hash=item4185573cb9

[Kimber]

With the ZHP you can always find a way to spend money! Corsa exhaust and M3 seats are also a must. :biggrin

Never went bigger, unfortunately I had to sell the car, but I did want to try 15 mm in the back.

704sw went 12.5 mm front and 15 mm rear on his Estoril blue coupe. - http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19408-Estoril-Coupe-or-How-I-Learned-to-Import-a-Unicorn&p=517969#post517969

Just stay clear from cheap, no name chinese spacers. I went with Precision European Motorwerks spacers.
Build quality seemed solid and price was all right. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-12mm-5x120-Wheel-Spacers-72-6-10-Black-Lug-Bolts-BMW-E60-E90-E92-E36-E46-/281409961145?hash=item4185573cb9

Thanks for the link, those look nice and for the price I was going to pay for new studs I can get spacers with new black wheel bolts. WIN WIN!!

[orange260z]

I had my original 135s on my white '05 convertible redone in a Subraru WRX gunmetal grey. They looked really nice when clean, and just a little matte when covered in brake dust. There are probably some pics of my car in previous posts.

[Don Adolfo]

I love the 135's too - despite the fact that they're so damn heavy, and difficult to clean. I solved the latter problem by switching to Akebono brake pads early on - they stay clean as a whistle now.

Mine are staying clean since I changed pads, but I found that an easy way to clean them is using a cheap, small foam paint brush between the spokes.

[ZHPizza]

15mm spacers in the rear will rub without a fender roll!

I experimented with 10mm and 15mm spacers front and rear and found that 12.5mm on both would be just about perfect.

[Sreten]

Good to know. That's with stock wheels?

[ZHPizza]

Good to know. That's with stock wheels?
Yep. 15mm in front looked pretty good, so you could pull that off if you wanted to, but 12.5mm is probably the max for the rear without rubbing and would also look the best on the front IMO.

[704sw]

Mine are staying clean since I changed pads, but I found that an easy way to clean them is using a cheap, small foam paint brush between the spokes.

Hmm, never thought of that. I use a MF towel for cleaning spokes instead of a sponge. I just feed it between the 135 spokes and basically floss. It helps get the back of the spokes too.

Wheel woolies or Daytona Speedmaster for the barrels.

[Kimber]

Yep. 15mm in front looked pretty good, so you could pull that off if you wanted to, but 12.5mm is probably the max for the rear without rubbing and would also look the best on the front IMO.

That's good to know since I didn't order the spacers yet. I have YCW coilovers coming, but I highly doubt I will go much lower than where stock sits. I like how stock sits, and I don't want to be worrying about scraping on everything by being too low on ride height. I mean maybe 1/4inch lower.

New Michelin PSS's in stock size as well going on after i get the wheels back from powdercoating.

Do you think 12mm (they don't look to have 12.5mm) all around would be OK if I was just a little lower than stock ride height?

[ZHPizza]

That's good to know since I didn't order the spacers yet. I have YCW coilovers coming, but I highly doubt I will go much lower than where stock sits. I like how stock sits, and I don't want to be worrying about scraping on everything by being too low on ride height. I mean maybe 1/4inch lower.

New Michelin PSS's in stock size as well going on after i get the wheels back from powdercoating.

Do you think 12mm (they don't look to have 12.5mm) all around would be OK if I was just a little lower than stock ride height?
I think that'll be perfect. The 10-12mm spacers on BMWs are a bit odd fitting due to the depth of the hub lip, so it's easy to get the seating off a bit. Just be sure to take your time with tightening the lugs. Go in a star pattern and move in small waves. Hand tight, a little tighter, a little more, then full torque.

[Kimber]

OK guys I just dropped the wheels off, and picked a color called P5 Glimmer made by Tiger powder.

Here's the chart (http://tigerpowderinfo.com/dev/images/downloads/colorcharts/TIGER_Drylac_Stellix_Color_Card_Volume_2_2013_tas. pdf)

They had the Kingsport Grey as well, but I didn't like how dark it got in the shadows/evening. (looks awesome in direct sun) The P5 Glimmer seemed to hold its shade of color a little better and wasn't as dark overall. I was really torn between the gunmetal, P14, and the P5.

I'm hoping the P5 glimmer is the right choice. LOL

What do you guys think?

Oh my car is identical to ecrabb in this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16256-Style-135-modifications-color-change/page9) I think post 82 shows his car with Kingsport grey.

[Dual]

I think that'll be perfect. The 10-12mm spacers on BMWs are a bit odd fitting due to the depth of the hub lip, so it's easy to get the seating off a bit. Just be sure to take your time with tightening the lugs. Go in a star pattern and move in small waves. Hand tight, a little tighter, a little more, then full torque.
I haven't had a wheel off the car on my own yet so it's a bit hard to visualize. What do the Turner kits which supposedly correct for the 10/12.5mm spacer installation problem do?

[ZHPizza]

I haven't had a wheel off the car on my own yet so it's a bit hard to visualize. What do the Turner kits which supposedly correct for the 10/12.5mm spacer installation problem do?

It looks like the issue might be limited to the 10mm size, but here's Turner's info on it:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-wheel-spacers-encyclopedia#Fitment

[Dual]

Great find! Many thanks.

[Don Adolfo]

Hmm, never thought of that. I use a MF towel for cleaning spokes instead of a sponge. I just feed it between the 135 spokes and basically floss. It helps get the back of the spokes too.

Wheel woolies or Daytona Speedmaster for the barrels.

Great technique too. I'll have to try it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Kimber]

It looks like the issue might be limited to the 10mm size, but here's Turner's info on it:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-wheel-spacers-encyclopedia#Fitment

Thanks for that info, but your saying if I go with 12mm all around it shouldn't be an issue, correct?

I was going to go with the Precision European Motorwerks spacers as SreTen did. Price is great and I can get spacers, studs, and nuts for about $125 total which is what I was going to spend at ECS for just stud conversion! LOL

Here is what I was going to get:

12mm spacers (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331286914645?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Stud conversion (http://www.ebay.com/itm/381926156249?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Lug nuts with Key (http://www.ebay.com/itm/331286917095?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

And just in case anyone wanted the spacers and wheel bolts together thats this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281409959242?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Now I am assuming that the stud kit I linked is going to be OK as it is 61mm overall and the shank is 44mm. In the above link where they provide new wheel bolts they say the shank is 39mm.

Can anyone confirm that the stud kit I linked is the proper length with the nuts I linked as well? I'd hate to get the wrong ones because I didn't ask you guys! LOL


Thanks everyone!

[Dual]

AFAIK it's been a long time since people dealing with normal-use wheels worried seriously about wheel theft to the point of adding and dealing with keys. Of course I live in a bit of an outback here in Maine...?

[Kimber]

AFAIK it's been a long time since people dealing with normal-use wheels worried seriously about wheel theft to the point of adding and dealing with keys. Of course I live in a bit of an outback here in Maine...?

It's the only ones they had and I thought I would just get everything from them. LOL But hey I wouldn't want some "regular e46" trying to take my awesome ZHP wheels!! :)

[Kimber]

So I decided to just get 12mm all around and got the kit with the 39mm shank black wheel bolts included. I couldn't seem to get solid answers from Precision European on their stud conversion sizes, and from the pictures it seems that their stud end that goes into the hub goes in further than what any of the others I was researching which would cause issues.

These are the ones I got for anyone else looking (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281409959242?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I don't track my car, but I thought the studs would make a nice little upgrade, but for now(until I can do more research), going to just use their longer wheel bolts.

Ordered the 12mm spacers, new center caps, and the M stickers which hopefully will all be here by end of next week when the wheels should be back from powder. Michelin PSS are all in and waiting for me at Costco. Can't wait! :)

[Kimber]

The shop ordered the P5 glimmer and when they got it they sprayed a sample for me and it wasn't anything like I was thinking it would be from the swatch. They also sprayed me another sample in Anthracite, and it was awesome in the sun, but a little dark in the shade, but I really liked it in the sun. So Anthracite it is! Michelin's go on tomorrow and I'll update pics this weekend when I get everything done.

Just a sneak peak...loving them!!!
29993

Little curb rash on the original, but all gone now!

29994

[oclvframe]

FWIW, I ran e90 sport wheels on my zhp for a year.....their offset was about 13mm more than the stock 135s (i.e. ET50 vs 37). I found that the rear 255/35s would rub when going through larger dips in the road or sharp humps. When I refinished my 135s, I went square with the 8-1/2s and 255s all the way around and the wheels sit perfectly. So, you may need to roll the rear fenders or just live with some occasional rubbing in the rear with 12mm spacers.

[Kimber]

Got the Michelin's mounted and everything bolted up. The 12mm spacers fit really nice except on the right rear, I had to tap it on a bit. (not the spacer fault, I think there was a metal burr on the hub) I only drove it a little but the rears do rub over big dips in the roads. (both my rear shocks are blown, so maybe once I get the coilovers back from YCW it will be better) If not I guess I'll have to go with 10mm in the rear?? All honesty I could have lived with 10mm all around.

30002

A bit dark in the shadows but I think it will grow on me.

30003

Close up, they did a great job on the powdercoat I think! Anyone know what the red dot is? It's the only tire that has it.

30004

[ELCID86]

Anyone know what the red dot is? It's the only tire that has it.


Sniper. Duck!

[Kimber]

So I haven't got an alignment done yet, but am loving the new tires. The rear rubbing is worrying me though. The YCW coilovers have been redone and are on their way back to the USA. So in a couple weeks i can get those back on and get the full alignment. I'm not planning on going super low on the ride hieght, i want a nice ride quality.

Do you guys think the 12mm spacers in the rear will work out once i get the alignment and the coilover installed? (my rear shocks are completely shot right now)

I'm wondering how some people install 12mm and have no problems, and I am rubbing. Could it be the brand new Michelin's as they have so much tread being new?

[Kimber]

Oh and to update on anyone else looking for the parts I got:

ebay M stickers, they all seem to be too big for our wheels, or maybe mine got some extra powdercoat and reduced the size, but I had to trim the stickers I got off ebay. Up close, like nose in the sticker, you can tell they are cut, but from distance looks fine.

ebay center caps, look great to me and fit well, I couldn't see paying 15 a piece for OEM ones.

The spacers were of good build quality and the extended wheel bolts are included (and the price is great). Hopefully if I have to go to 10mm in the rear, they will exchange them for me.

[RBW]

This is what I have been told (could be BS, but my tires balanced out with minimal weights). The red dot is the heaviest point on the tire. it should be lined up (or as close as possible) to the valve stem (lightest point on the rim due to the hole). This is to aid in the the balancing of the wheel/tire package. Can anyone corroborate this? Inquiring minds need to know!

[Kimber]

This is what I have been told (could be BS, but my tires balanced out with minimal weights). The red dot is the heaviest point on the tire. it should be lined up (or as close as possible) to the valve stem (lightest point on the rim due to the hole). This is to aid in the the balancing of the wheel/tire package. Can anyone corroborate this? Inquiring minds need to know!

You know I heard that too but then a buddy said he heard it doesn't matter. LOL

Well I am getting a slight shake in the steering wheel when I get to about 55 MPH. So I am probably taking them back to Costco to redo the balance and I will ask them if they can move that red dot to the valve just in case.