A Mild Predicament

[Prestovie]

I recently received a call notifying me that I had been accepted for a job that I applied for as a camp counselor(which I'm ecstatic about, a few hundred people apply and only 8-12 get accepted!), but that obviously isn't the "mild predicament" for me.
Where the concern comes in is my realization today that this camp is 5hr away into Wisconsin, I don't mind the drive, but my ZHP is my only form of transportation. As you can imagine a summer camp isn't going to have freshly paved roads throughout, a fair amount is gravel and dirt when you're not on the main road, so it got me thinking: I'm going to need to prepare my car specifically for this summer job.
Not taking the job is out of the question, I just need to know some things that I'll need to do and buy in order to make sure I don't exit the summer with a car that looks like it has been sandblasted, so here's what I'm thinking:

-Need a clear bra, either the entire car or just the fenders and front of hood/grille. Cheaper alternative to this would be a black bra which I would be able to use again next summer, but that doesn't protect the entire car
-Skid plate? Like I said there's gonna be a lot of gravel, and I'll be up there for 7-9 weeks, so anyway that I can keep my undercarriage safe from the roads is going to be needed
-Raise it up/lift. Ok so this is where I'm confused, I currently have Koni Yellows but I'm almost positive they're not adjustable(unless they don't adjust like other coilovers using the ring) but I definitely need more ground clearance than I have right now. So I have no idea what I need to do about this part, whether that be to remove the coilovers entirely, or to attach a small lift kit? Any advice is appreciated
-Proper set of tires that won't get devoured by the gravel- I have two sets of tires at the moment, my winter Blizzaks and my Michelin PSS which are at about 40% tread on the front and 60% tread on the back. Is there a meatier tire that I should be buying for these environments, or will the Michelin fair?
-Additional lights, whether it be a light bar or a set of cage lights for the front. The stock ZHP headlights aren't fantastic, and the camp is in a wooded area, so the more visibility the better, right?

Sorry if this seems all over the place, I really appreciate any advice and insight anyone has to offer. In short I need to prepare my ZHP for a demanding summer, if there are any other things you would suggest fire away, I'm trying to get a list together.
Unfortunately I was looking forward to buying a project car this summer and maybe taking that up(like an e28 or e34) but it seems I may be putting more money into protecting the ZHP, which I don't have a problem with, it's the priority.
Again, anything is appreciated. Thanks guys!

[BCS_ZHP]

Fiscally prudent way, buy a $2-3K beater for the summer and do that, beat on it. Keeps miles off your ZHP, and at the end of the summer sell it for $1.5-2.5K. You're only out $500 depreciation plus the cost of registration & insurance for the other car, you'll never second guess yourself on how much you might have hurt your ZHP.

[brettbimmer]

Congrats on the new job! Hmmm...any chance you would buy an SUV for this use and sell it therafter? Thinking a 2000 era 4Runner, or older classic Jeep Cherokee or something? May be cheaper than the parts list for the ZHP.

Standard Koni yellows with separate springs are not height adjustable, short of changing the springs. Dampening can be adjusted on the fronts using a koni supplied knob. Rears usually have to be unbolted and twisted to adjust dampening. Anyone know if xi springs might work? Good luck with whatever you choose.

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[Prestovie]

Fiscally prudent way, buy a $2-3K beater for the summer and do that, beat on it. Keeps miles off your ZHP, and at the end of the summer sell it for $1.5-2.5K. You're only out $500 depreciation plus the cost of registration & insurance for the other car, you'll never second guess yourself on how much you might have hurt your ZHP.

That's a good point, I'd just have to make sure that it would be reliable for the entire summer, can't afford to be putting more money into another vehicle. I'd just have to accumulate the $2-3k by mid spring which shouldn't be terribly difficult. Then it just comes down to what to buy for a beater, already been looking at late 90s Jeep Cherokee's

[Prestovie]

Congrats on the new job! Hmmm...any chance you would buy an SUV for this use and sell it therafter? Thinking a 2000 era 4Runner, or older classic Jeep Cherokee or something? May be cheaper than the parts list for the ZHP.

Standard Koni yellows with separate springs are not height adjustable, short of changing the springs. Dampening can be adjusted on the fronts using a koni supplied knob. Rears usually have to be unbolted and twisted to adjust dampening. Anyone know if xi springs might work? Good luck with whatever you choose.

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Thanks so much! And my thoughts exactly when it comes to the ideas for a beater, my uncle is actually keeping an eye out in his mudding club for people selling their old cherokees. And thanks for the information on the Koni, it was confusing to say the least the first time I took the wheels off and looked at them :thumbup

[Prestovie]

Something like this for the summer:
28790

[BCS_ZHP]

Please don't do that, opens up more potential problems. Big tires & lifted suspensions equals terrible angles of attack for drive shafts. Just get a standard 4x4 and deal with the sub-par driving experience for the couple of summer months. I do the exact opposite, buy a 4x4 beater for the winter so a BMW can hibernate. Stock is good enough for your summer, you don't need the baddest ride there at camp.

[Prestovie]

Please don't do that, opens up more potential problems. Big tires & lifted suspensions equals terrible angles of attack for drive shafts. Just get a standard 4x4 and deal with the sub-par driving experience for the couple of summer months. I do the exact opposite, buy a 4x4 beater for the winter so a BMW can hibernate. Stock is good enough for your summer, you don't need the baddest ride there at camp.

Haha I suppose so, forgot about the terrible ride of a lifted truck. I'll keep looking into it, but what would you think about getting something like the older bimmers I mentioned before? I'd end up keeping it for the winters(like you mentioned, wish I had one this winter) and it would be a project car

[BCS_ZHP]

If your u go back as far as an e28 or e34, count on every piece of rubber in that 25-30 year old car being dry rotted. Better idea, buy an early e46, you know how to work on it. Or an early e39 6 cylinder, same engine as a pre-facelift e46, you can work on that too.

Best bet, a 12-15 year old suburb awd sedan or wagon. They're dirt cheap, ugly, and will carry you for the summer, then sell after summer or retain for a winter beater.

[bandwagn]

Rental car? $200-$300/week and you dont have to worry about a thing.

[Prestovie]

Rental car? $200-$300/week and you dont have to worry about a thing.

Lol I wish, I'm not 25, just off by a few years

[Prestovie]

If your u go back as far as an e28 or e34, count on every piece of rubber in that 25-30 year old car being dry rotted. Better idea, buy an early e46, you know how to work on it. Or an early e39 6 cylinder, same engine as a pre-facelift e46, you can work on that too.

Best bet, a 12-15 year old suburb awd sedan or wagon. They're dirt cheap, ugly, and will carry you for the summer, then sell after summer or retain for a winter beater.

Yea that would make more sense I guess, I might even be able to do some good for an older e46 or e39 and add a little value to it(doubtless). We'll have to see when the time comes, I'm gonna talk to my brother about it and get his opinion on it too.

[BADCLOWN]

If you can find a mildly clean 3rd gen Toyota 4Runner I'd recommend that

[Prestovie]

If you can find a mildly clean 3rd gen Toyota 4Runner I'd recommend that

I'll keep an eye out for one, thanks for the recommendation!


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[az3579]

How much of the roads aren't paved? I would think most of them are. What if you just drive slowly on the non-paved roads?
Are your lights ZKWs? If not, you can order a PA Soft module and enable all of your headlights to turn on with the high beam. I find this lighting setup more than sufficient for even the darkest roads.

I'm thinking buying a beater car defeats the purpose of having a summer job, but that's just me. Unless, of course, this job isn't because you need the money, but instead because you love doing it, in which case, have at a beater!

[NoVAphotog]

I'll keep an eye out for one, thanks for the recommendation!


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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-vehicles/

+1 Obviously to that suggestion. Toyota Premium is a thing though so may not be in the true "beater" category. Plus they have a tendency to exhibit the same effects on your wallet as our other cars if you care about it enough.

[slater]

interesting. Der Rally ZHP. awesome!

i went camping with my family and the ZHP on a missions trip the summer before last, at a native reserve. this was in remote semi-northern ontario, and on the reserve, 90% of the roads are not paved. we mostly drove on the paved roads but one day we had to go way out to the other end of the reserve, and that meant crazy gravel/dirt roads. i had stock springs and dampers at the time, but even so, it was nerve-wracking. i drove SLOW, but never had any ground clearance issues, despite the huge rocks everywhere (it, of course, had just been grated...).

with that experience behind me, if i was going to do that again, i would either outfit the ZHP for that type of use, like you're thinking already - or buying a cheap SUV like others have mentioned. personally, i think outfitting the ZHP would be more fun and some of the mods will be useful later on:

- 16" wheels that clear 330i brakes, and tall tires - potentially winter tires as they won't wear that much in the summer on dirt - you could probably find these cheap used on craigslist.
- upgrade your headlights with a TRS kit (if you've got ZKWs) or the ZKW-R lenses from TRS if you've got ALs (i have the former and have zero issues seeing at night - and i live in the sticks, where it's DARK at night). this will be awesome long-term for the ZHP.
- get a clearbra or laminex kit for your car. this will be awesome long-term for the ZHP.
- get a set of Ground Control coilover sleeves with long, stock-rate springs (8-9", if they fit), so you can raise the car up an inch. you can keep your konis, and when you're done, swap the springs out for something more road-worthy and then you have some height adjustability with the suspension.
- mudflaps - heck yeah!

and, of course - we need pics of all of this. BMWs (thinking E30s here) can make awesome rally cars. why not?

:cheers

[anandoc]

BMWs (thinking E30s here) can make awesome rally cars. why not?

:cheers

Here is a good example of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HUKTi1vnzA

OP, do it!!

[Prestovie]

How much of the roads aren't paved? I would think most of them are. What if you just drive slowly on the non-paved roads?
Are your lights ZKWs? If not, you can order a PA Soft module and enable all of your headlights to turn on with the high beam. I find this lighting setup more than sufficient for even the darkest roads.

I'm thinking buying a beater car defeats the purpose of having a summer job, but that's just me. Unless, of course, this job isn't because you need the money, but instead because you love doing it, in which case, have at a beater!

This is my first time hearing of this module and it sounds awesome, any idea on how expensive/ how the install process is? And I agree with the fact that buying a beater would practically cancel out any money id be making. I am doing it because I love the job but I also need the pay to keep me afloat(though it isn't a lot)


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[anandoc]

This is my first time hearing of this module and it sounds awesome, any idea on how expensive/ how the install process is?

It is a coding tool which you can use to code your LCM module such that when you pull the high beam stalk, you would have the inner halogens on along with the bi-xenons on high beam (shutter pulled down) and you can have the fog lamps on as well. Also known as the 'trifecta' lights. Pretty bright in my opinion.

Tony sells the PA Soft tool here. Just look up the ZHP parts classifieds sub-forum.

[Prestovie]

It is a coding tool which you can use to code your LCM module such that when you pull the high beam stalk, you would have the inner halogens on along with the bi-xenons on high beam (shutter pulled down) and you can have the fog lamps on as well. Also known as the 'trifecta' lights. Pretty bright in my opinion.

Tony sells the PA Soft tool here. Just look up the ZHP parts classifieds sub-forum.

Awesome thanks so much!


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[slater]

which option is that in PASoft? i'd like that...

[Prestovie]

Here is a good example of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HUKTi1vnzA

OP, do it!!

99% of my body says yes! But the other 1% is my wallet crying out in agony lol, if I can figure out a place to store it(at my dads house if he allows it) then I'll go for it


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[anandoc]

which option is that in PASoft? i'd like that...

Personally, I have only ever used NCS Expert to do this, but I would imagine PA Soft may have this option too. BP may need to confirm...

PWM_WERT2_FL_BIXENON = wert_01 [For Halogen and Bi-xenon together at high beam]
FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ = nicht_aktiv [This allows you to have the fog lamps on when high beam is switched on]

[hcbeck2689]

If this were me I would drive my ZHP up there and find a good little spot out of the way and throw a cover on it for the following weeks. I'm sure there will be other people with cars that you could ride with or even borrow.


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[az3579]

Personally, I have only ever used NCS Expert to do this, but I would imagine PA Soft may have this option too. BP may need to confirm...

PWM_WERT2_FL_BIXENON = wert_01 [For Halogen and Bi-xenon together at high beam]
FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ = nicht_aktiv [This allows you to have the fog lamps on when high beam is switched on]


I don't typically use PA Soft either... I thought people have used it for this before. I do everything through NCS and try to avoid PA Soft whenever I can...

[Prestovie]

If this were me I would drive my ZHP up there and find a good little spot out of the way and throw a cover on it for the following weeks. I'm sure there will be other people with cars that you could ride with or even borrow.


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That's not a bad idea, most everybody up there has a vehicle so I'd definitely be able to, and I'm in camp for 6/7 days of the week, my day off everyone piles into cars and goes into town


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[Prestovie]

Personally, I have only ever used NCS Expert to do this, but I would imagine PA Soft may have this option too. BP may need to confirm...

PWM_WERT2_FL_BIXENON = wert_01 [For Halogen and Bi-xenon together at high beam]
FL_UND_NSW_NICHT_GLEICHZ = nicht_aktiv [This allows you to have the fog lamps on when high beam is switched on]

Extremely helpful! Thank you, do you know how to go about installing the software? Do I download it on the computer then OBD II attach it into the car? New to the coding world

[anandoc]

Extremely helpful! Thank you, do you know how to go about installing the software? Do I download it on the computer then OBD II attach it into the car? New to the coding world

You can typically buy the special cable on ebay and it would ship with a DVD (or two) with all the software (NCS Expert, WinKFP, DIS etc etc). The DVD is setup such that when you run it, it installs and configures everything on your laptop (Windows based).

Then you can learn how to use NCS Expert via the various threads here and elsewhere on other forums.

Here is a decent getting started guide:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1800496-Dummies-Guide-to-Basic-coding-with-NCS-Expert

This is the seller I bought the cable from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-USB-OBD-Diagnostic-cable-INPA-Ediabas-DIS-v57-SSS-v32-Progman-GT1/231931285961

[az3579]

NCS is not for the faint of heart. Someone should confirm if PA Soft can do it - this is a much easier option than NCS if it's doable.

[Prestovie]

You can typically buy the special cable on ebay and it would ship with a DVD (or two) with all the software (NCS Expert, WinKFP, DIS etc etc). The DVD is setup such that when you run it, it installs and configures everything on your laptop (Windows based).

Then you can learn how to use NCS Expert via the various threads here and elsewhere on other forums.

Here is a decent getting started guide:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1800496-Dummies-Guide-to-Basic-coding-with-NCS-Expert

This is the seller I bought the cable from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-USB-OBD-Diagnostic-cable-INPA-Ediabas-DIS-v57-SSS-v32-Progman-GT1/231931285961

Thank you again!


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[anandoc]

Thank you again!


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No problems. I have very little coding knowledge and I am still learning. Others here (namely BP and Terra) are coding gurus. But if you have any beginner coding questions, post them in the coding section and we can try to help you out.

[johnrando]

Tough call, will be interested to see what you decide

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[Prestovie]

Tough call, will be interested to see what you decide

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Haha me and you both :biggrin


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[Prestovie]

So, what're your guys opinions on a first gen dodge or chevy? I've always loved the boxy body styles, and I'm just hearing from more and more people not to get the jeep. Other suggestions have been a Bronco


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[NoVAphotog]

Dude I think you are overthinking this. Just take the zhp and enjoy the camp. Get rides with the other people and drive it around and enjoy it on your off days. Take it into town and keep it classy.

It's the ultimate daily driver man. The unibody and suspension is tougher than you think. Make sure she's waxed up before you go and it'll be that much easier to wash off dust and all.

I'd go out and get rogue engineering rear strut mounts and the BMW front strut reinforcement plates. Install those and call it a day. But even that is countered with don't be an idiot and bomb down the roads.

I can't imagine the roads will be that bad if it's even close to being traveled regularly.

What doe it look like online or on google earth?

[Prestovie]

Dude I think you are overthinking this. Just take the zhp and enjoy the camp. Get rides with the other people and drive it around and enjoy it on your off days. Take it into town and keep it classy.

It's the ultimate daily driver man. The unibody and suspension is tougher than you think. Make sure she's waxed up before you go and it'll be that much easier to wash off dust and all.

I'd go out and get rogue engineering rear strut mounts and the BMW front strut reinforcement plates. Install those and call it a day. But even that is countered with don't be an idiot and bomb down the roads.

I can't imagine the roads will be that bad if it's even close to being traveled regularly.

What doe it look like online or on google earth?

If I find a good picture I'll post it in here. And I know that it's an awesome daily driver and I love it for that, I just don't want to sandblast the paintwork while I'm there. I'll look into those reinforcements. I just can't imagine her taking any of the potholes well, my ride around town is jerky and jarring as it is:/ I also don't want to be known as the kid that brings his BMW into camp if that makes sense lol, like I personally know it's not a big deal but I know other people don't think the same way I do haha.
Overall I'd much prefer to do the reinforcements and put the miles on her, but if it's going to cost me the price of a used truck then that's where I'm iffy.
Thanks for the input!


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[az3579]

Screw what other people think. Drive slowly over crappy areas and just enjoy the car everywhere else. :thumbsup

[NoVAphotog]

Screw what other people think. Drive slowly over crappy areas and just enjoy the car everywhere else. :thumbsup

+1!!!

[Prestovie]

Screw what other people think. Drive slowly over crappy areas and just enjoy the car everywhere else. :thumbsup

Hahaha well put, I can see myself leaning that way more and more. Any other recommendations on how to prepare the ZHP then?
So far I've got clear bra, reinforced sway bar brackets, (sub frame reinforcement?), lighting codes, skid plate


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[san]

Hahaha well put, I can see myself leaning that way more and more. Any other recommendations on how to prepare the ZHP then?
So far I've got clear bra, reinforced sway bar brackets, (sub frame reinforcement?), lighting codes, skid plate


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If you are on stock wheels then downsizing to 17" would help if funds allow it...


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[Prestovie]

If you are on stock wheels then downsizing to 17" would help if funds allow it...


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Good point, I'd probably opt for some steelies either way, hopefully can get a used set already wrapped with tires


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[az3579]

If you're not driving over these crappy roads every single day, I would recommend spraying the areas prone to rock chips with PlastiDip. That way, you can nice temporary protection. I would spray the area behind each wheel. You shouldn't have to worry about rock chips in the front if nobody is going to be driving in front of you. PD is cheap, so you can buy a couple of cans and lay it on nice and thick.

[Prestovie]

If you're not driving over these crappy roads every single day, I would recommend spraying the areas prone to rock chips with PlastiDip. That way, you can nice temporary protection. I would spray the area behind each wheel. You shouldn't have to worry about rock chips in the front if nobody is going to be driving in front of you. PD is cheap, so you can buy a couple of cans and lay it on nice and thick.

lol I'm not sure if I'm understanding this correct, but just spraying PD over my paint in prone areas? Seems like it could work utilitarian style but I don't see myself spraying the paintwork


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[az3579]

lol I'm not sure if I'm understanding this correct, but just spraying PD over my paint in prone areas? Seems like it could work utilitarian style but I don't see myself spraying the paintwork


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The beauty of PlastiDip is that it's totally removable by just peeling it up. It's a flexible rubberized material. The thicker you spray it, the easier it is to remove! Just make sure the paint to be sprayed is clean prior to application. Trust me, it's totally safe for your paint.

[Prestovie]

The beauty of PlastiDip is that it's totally removable by just peeling it up. It's a flexible rubberized material. The thicker you spray it, the easier it is to remove! Just make sure the paint to be sprayed is clean prior to application. Trust me, it's totally safe for your paint.

Wow really? I may end up doing that, definitely cheaper than the clear bra lol


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[Dual]

Maybe start off running a lightly "enhanced" ZHP, with cash in reserve for that beater in case you have to change your plans.

I think if I were using a beater for that run, I would still make a few trips in the ZHP just for the fun of it

[Prestovie]

Maybe start off running a lightly "enhanced" ZHP, with cash in reserve for that beater in case you have to change your plans.

I think if I were using a beater for that run, I would still make a few trips in the ZHP just for the fun of it

That's why I really want to take it, I love putting miles on! And what do you mean by enhanced?


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[Dual]

And what do you mean by enhanced? I dunno, like pick from the substantial list of mods that have been discussed here and pick a handful that make the most sense to you.

[Prestovie]

I dunno, like pick from the substantial list of mods that have been discussed here and pick a handful that make the most sense to you.

Oh haha I gotcha, there's already a pretty good amount of mods done to it prior to my purchase, everything that I would have done to it had already been done

[holyc0w]

Are you bringing a bike?

[Prestovie]

Are you bringing a bike?

I was actually thinking of that today, I know they have bikes there but I have a bike attachment for my roof rack, wouldn't hurt to put to good use


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