Best OEM+ pad?

[nsk040]

Doing a brake refresh. Likely going with Zimmerman rotors and new lines all around....plan do a track day or 2 a year. Happy keep the sessions a bit shorter to manage brakes, however wanted to get something a little better than OEM but want to avoid noise. Don't care about dust. Recommendations?

Thanks

[az3579]

My friend uses EBC Yellowstuff on track. It is equivalent to Hawk HP+, but his doesn't squeak at all, and can be used on the street. He has an E36 M3, so I don't know if that will translate to the same noise levels in an E46, but something to look at.

And DON'T buy Hawk HP+. Your ears will bleed.

[Vas]

I like ebc red.

[derbo]

I like stoptech Streets. I heard PFC Z rated are nice too.

[3ZHP]

I went with Hawk 5.0 and Brembo solid rotors about a year and a half ago and luv them. Great stopping in a shorter distance, very low dust, no noise and just very slight rust on the brake rotor hubs.


http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/high-performance-street-50


Definitely something to look into. These pads are a new composite, that have proved out well for me. On the rotors, Brembo uses a zinc coating that works great in keeping the rust off the non functional surfaces.

Check Tirerack! That's where I got mine at a reasonable cost.


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[az3579]

Keep in mind, he's looking to track it twice a year - most of the street pads won't be sufficient if he's an advanced driver.

[UdubBadger]

Red is more OEM+ even though yellow would be better track suited


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[3ZHP]

Keep in mind, he's looking to track it twice a year - most of the street pads won't be sufficient if he's an advanced driver.

I wouldn't have a problem with the Hawk 5.0s on the track unless, he's running in A class or an instructor.


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[slater]

i've been happy with the stoptech 'sport' pads. the brakes actually work when wet now. no noise, low dust, good cold bite.

[UdubBadger]

Stoptech is amazing on the streets but man they fade real quick on the track - ask me how I know #wenttooHAM


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[az3579]

I wouldn't have a problem with the Hawk 5.0s on the track unless, he's running in A class or an instructor.


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Some of the fast Novice drivers fade them as well. I remember I was fading my HPS pads way back in the day in the Beginner run group.

It would just be a shame to go to the track and have fading problems. Fade ruins my mood real quick, not sure about everyone else. The absolute best choice would be to get a street pad for the street (I highly recommend EBC Redstuff) and then swap to track pads for track days. It's easy to do. No compromises! :)

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[NoVAphotog]

It would just be a shame to go to the track and have fading problems. Fade ruins my mood real quick, not sure about everyone else. The absolute best choice would be to get a street pad for the street and then swap to track pads for track days. It's easy to do. No compromises! :)


+1

I have Centric Posi-quiet pads/ Centric blank rotors up front which have lasted we well over the last few years and several autocross events. If I could do it again I'd probably have gone with them all around as it is my fronts stay dust free and my rears (stock BMW) get all dusty. I picked up Hawk HP+ pads for the track. Flushed the brake fluid and swapped them on. Takes 20-30min (not counting getting her in the air...ugh and I'm not even that low). BP is right that really is the best solution. I will admit I am a novice driver and was not pushing the car as hard as I could have so I have yet to experience fade with them. The squeal went away as they heated up. That said, they are fantastic pads, the squeal when I did need to drive on the street was HORRIBLE but that bite with even a little graze of the pedal was very addicting... :drool

Do not feel like you need anything fancier than OEM blank rotors. I've had MANY people who race/track their BMW's regularly say that is more than enough and to focus on pads and having fresh, correct temp rated fluid. Drilled/slotted is just compromising integrity for minimal gain.

[Vas]

In regards to the EBC Red, they dusted crazy when they first were installed. This was most likely due to the coating that they come with for the "brake in" when the pads are first installed. Now there is barely any dust and they are quite.

http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/

[az3579]

I picked up Hawk HPS+ pads for the track.

I have to make note that this typo is important: what you have are HP+ pads. For those reading this, keep in mind that HPS and HP+ are quite different. HPS = street, HP+ = streetable track

[nsk040]

Thanks for all the great info. Is it worth the $100 or so to do new lines as well while I'm in there? Also, any reason to consider anything other than Zimmerman rotors?

[NoVAphotog]

I have to make note that this typo is important: what you have are HP+ pads. For those reading this, keep in mind that HPS and HP+ are quite different. HPS = street, HP+ = streetable track

Corrected. Thanks BP. The ones I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZZRR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[NoVAphotog]

Thanks for all the great info. Is it worth the $100 or so to do new lines as well while I'm in there? Also, any reason to consider anything other than Zimmerman rotors?

Absolutely. Stainless steel lines. I believe Stoptech has a kit. Nah, Zimmermann are fine. Like I was saying above, OEM blanks. Centric, Zimmerman, Brembo, etc. All fine.

[GotZHP]

Buy two sets of pads is my advice. Any street pad will most likely be ruined in a hard day at the track if it already has wear from the street. I went with OEM pads for now and will have a separate set for the few track days a year I will eventually do.

[nsk040]

Thanks for the advice. Obviously the 2 pad route is ideal - though a bit of a pain. Are the basic Akebono pads (ECS Tuning has them) an OEM comparable option for solely street use?

Shops tend to want to sell me the parts too. If I bring my own parts, about how many hours ($ cost) should a shop charge me to do rotors/pads/lines and flush the system out?

I did a quick search for DIYs on pads/rotors/lines/flush on the forum but didn't find anything. Some decent stuff on youtube but was curious if there are any nicely detailed DIYs on here as I consider giving it a try myself.

Thanks

[GotZHP]

Thanks for the advice. Obviously the 2 pad route is ideal - though a bit of a pain. Are the basic Akebono pads (ECS Tuning has them) an OEM comparable option for solely street use?

Shops tend to want to sell me the parts too. If I bring my own parts, about how many hours ($ cost) should a shop charge me to do rotors/pads/lines and flush the system out?

I did a quick search for DIYs on pads/rotors/lines/flush on the forum but didn't find anything. Some decent stuff on youtube but was curious if there are any nicely detailed DIYs on here as I consider giving it a try myself.

Thanks

I can give you a write up on the pads, rotors, & Sensors part of that job. If you are doing pads and rotors and the rest of the system, don't forget the sensors! They are not that expensive and are easy to swap out.

PM if you want to do the brakes. It is pretty simple and can be accomplished with basic tools, a jack, and jack stands. I paid just shy of $500 for 4 pad sets, 4 rotors, 2 sensors. Labor would bring this number up anywhere from $200 to $500 I would imagine depending on the shop. American Tire wanted $190 in labor to do just the front pads on the Fiesta ST. Its a Ford and that didn't include the parts!