Oil Consumption Thread

[san]

There has been a lot of discussion here about the oil consumption issue and I thought it would be a good idea to get all our opinions and discussions and DIYs into a single thread.

From what I have read, heard and experienced, it seems the oil consumption on the M54B30 engine can vary from zero consumption to about a quart every 500 miles. The oil consumption seems to be present mostly on engines which have over 100k miles on them AND more importantly for a lot of folks the oil consumption seems to have gotten worse and/or started after the CCV has been replaced (for me too personally). There has been a lot of discussion on this issue on various forums, but this seems to be the most comprehensive -

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...8#post23714558

I forgot who posted the link on an another thread, I just bookmarked it for my reference, so a BIG Thank You to whoever it was. The thread linked above talks about the "O2Pilot Mod" which is named after the person who came up with it. It basically involves connecting the port on the oil separator to the port at the back of the intake manifold using a simple vacuum line. The mod seemed to have worked for a lot of folks, with some reporting near zero oil consumption with no side effects, but slater (peter) pointed out that there could be a possibility that condensation could enter the intake manifold through the vacuum line and possibly hydro lock the engine.

I recently found a video on YouTube by 50sKid, which in fine detail explains everything we had been discussing as well as possible solutions to cure the oil consumption including the O2Pilot mod -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYp3ieMy5oI

Also here is a video of the O2Pilot mod DIY by 50sKid -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fo2rLSzNzt0

Obviously there is a lot more information I can add to this post but for starters I just wanted to create thread where we can all discuss the issue instead of in a random thread where it would be difficult to find later.

I would also encourage others to add anything related that you might think is interesting, important or necessary :)

[san]

As of now I think only BP and myself are going to try out the O2Pilot mod, so I will be tracking my oil consumption in this post.

Before CCV replacement my car was consuming a quart of oil every 7000 miles. The first oil change after the CCV replacement my car consumed only 0.5 quart for the 7000 miles, but it has been dropping since then and I am now currently at 3000 miles for every quart although I do seem to have a very small OFHG leak. Once I implement the O2Pilot mod I will update this post :fingerscrossed

[Damian]

Thank you for this. Boss man ELCID86 pointed me in that direction the other day and I will be doing this mod over the weekend. I had ccv replaced and although my oil consumption didn't get any better it didn't get any worse. I'm up to a qt every 400 miles or so and engine is now at 169k. This is my DD so I expect to have results to share shortly after install

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[holyc0w]

Does anyone know if increasing the oil weight could have a significant effect on consumption (reduction in blow-by gas)?

[Damian]

Does anyone know if increasing the oil weight could have a significant effect on consumption (reduction in blow-by gas)?
I've read that 10W-40 helps but you can't use it unless you live in warm climate, I'm in Cali so I tried it. Didn't help my oil consumption at all, neither did additives and I've tried MOS2 as well as CeraTec.

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[BMWCurves]

Nice thread! This would be a great place to consolidate other options as well. e.g. I forget who, but someone used a different valve cover with a built in CCV system, or catch can setups (slater)

[das boots]

I will keep my eye on this thread on how this progresses. I am withholding my move since my no oil consumption has let's say stabilized for the past 2500 mi. ever since I have switched to M1 10w-40. Testing if a lighter weight oil is the answer......hopefully.



Edit: That should have been M1 OW-40

[slater]

...but slater (peter) pointed out that there could be a possibility that condensation could enter the intake manifold through the vacuum line and possible hydro lock the engine.

thanks san, for creating this thread. it is a serious (and costly) issue with a potentially easy fix! in regards to above, adding a 1-way check valve would eliminate the potential for sucking oil back up into the intake manifold. thanks to research done by that youtube video poster, here is the valve:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXAP5CN/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=50skid-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01LXAP5CN&linkId=2c595c8db279cb479ee828779addd44d

please note that this should be a requirement if doing this vacuum mod. it needs to be inserted into the oil drain hose that runs from the bottom of the CCV, to the oil pan. you cut the hose and place this in the middle (and be mindful of the flow arrow!).

for warmer climates, i think this is a solid solution! :) and total cost for the modifications is perhaps $12. :cheers



Nice thread! This would be a great place to consolidate other options as well. e.g. I forget who, but someone used a different valve cover with a built in CCV system, or catch can setups (slater)

ryan in MI used the M56 valve cover, which is a cool idea too - it should help keep the CCV from freezing, but i wonder if you can increase the vacuum on it like with this mod?

for me, i will continue to use my catch can with CCAF system. it's darn cold here and with my car doing some short trips, plus days between drives, i'm a perfect storm for CCV freeze-up. :)

i've been asked to sell a turn-key version of my CCAF system by a few people, which i might.

here's to reduced oil consumption!!! :cheers :cheers

[holyc0w]

I will keep my eye on this thread on how this progresses. I am withholding my move since my no oil consumption has let's say stabilized for the past 2500 mi. ever since I have switched to M1 10w-40. Testing if a lighter weight oil is the answer......hopefully.

Which weight did you have before?



for me, i will continue to use my catch can with CCAF system. it's darn cold here and with my car doing some short trips, plus days between drives, i'm a perfect storm for CCV freeze-up. :)

i've been asked to sell a turn-key version of my CCAF system by a few people, which i might.

here's to reduced oil consumption!!! :cheers :cheers

What's CCAF?

[az3579]

Peter,
How would some condensation hydrolock the engine? Wouldn't the condensate just burn once the engine is warmed up? Do you think such a small amount is enough to be a problem? I thought a considerably larger amount of water was required for there to be an issue, which is why I ask.

Also, for the check valve - what size is needed? I haven't had time to watch the video, but I'm trying to order all the parts I need so they arrive before the weekend, so time is of the essence. I ordered the CCV parts a couple of nights ago - it seems like this check valve is the last thing I need. Is it the 12mm that comes up by default when I click on the link?

Thanks in advance.



What's CCAF?

I'm assuming Catch Can Anti-Freeze, since he has heating elements installed on his can to prevent freezeups.

[das boots]

Which weight did you have before?

M1 5W-30

Edit: I am presently using M1 OW-40. Way lighter weight.

[slater]

What's CCAF?

I'm assuming Catch Can Anti-Freeze, since he has heating elements installed on his can to prevent freezeups.

dang, nice job! you got it. :)



Peter,
How would some condensation hydrolock the engine? Wouldn't the condensate just burn once the engine is warmed up? Do you think such a small amount is enough to be a problem? I thought a considerably larger amount of water was required for there to be an issue, which is why I ask.

it's not the condensate, although i don't want that going back through my engine either if i can help it... it's oil getting sucked right out of the oil pan, through the return line. it's happened before when the CCV freezes - it's an extreme scenario, but entirely possible. in short, the intake manifold pulls vacuum on the CCV, but the consendate in the lower half of the CCV is frozen (and thus blocking the outlet from the valve cover), so the oil from the pan comes right up the drain tube. clearly a gross oversight on BMW's part... the 1-way check valve would prevent destruction.



Also, for the check valve - what size is needed? I haven't had time to watch the video, but I'm trying to order all the parts I need so they arrive before the weekend, so time is of the essence. I ordered the CCV parts a couple of nights ago - it seems like this check valve is the last thing I need. Is it the 12mm that comes up by default when I click on the link?

yep, it's that exact one! essentially it allows the oil and condensate to drain back into the oil pan - like the OEM design - but does not allow oil to come back up. it's a 1-way valve.

[az3579]

Thanks Peter.

[NorCalZman]

definitely looking forward to seeing some of the results of this!

[stephenkirsh]

I replaced my ccv two years ago with no change in consumption. Am I lucky/rare?

[az3579]

Check valve ordered. Looks like it might be happening this Sunday...

[Karl Lazlo]

BP - I expect a full debrief upon its completion and field testing.

[az3579]

BP - I expect a full debrief upon its completion and field testing.

Roger, Roger.

[Damian]

Check valve ordered. Looks like it might be happening this Sunday...
Where did you place the order? Amazon was going to take forever to get it here. Napa or AutoZone don't carry it.

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[das boots]

Check valve ordered. Looks like it might be happening this Sunday...

12mm?

[holyc0w]

M1 5W-30

Edit: I am presently using M1 OW-40. Way lighter weight.

I believe that would be heavier when warmed up and warm(40 vs 30), and lighter when the oil is cold (0 vs 30).

edit from the future: meant 0 vs 5 :(

[az3579]

Where did you place the order? Amazon was going to take forever to get it here. Napa or AutoZone don't carry it.

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Amazon. I have a Prime membership, so the "one day" shipping only cost me $3.99 extra and should guarantee Friday delivery. The free two-day wouldn't have arrived until Monday, strangely.

12mm?
Yes.

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[san]

Amazon. I have a Prime membership, so the "one day" shipping only cost me $3.99 extra and should guarantee Friday delivery. The free two-day wouldn't have arrived until Monday, strangely.

Yes.

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That's weird, I just ordered it using Amazon prime and it said I should get it by Friday, free 2 day prime shipping...


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[san]

I replaced my ccv two years ago with no change in consumption. Am I lucky/rare?

Not everyone who changed their ccv faces this issue, I know quite a few people whose oil consumption remained the same...


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[holyc0w]

Must be the location of the warehouse. If I were to order within the next 21 hours, it's showing Saturday.

[san]

Ah makes sense, I thought anywhere in USA should be the same shipping time...


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[az3579]

Ah makes sense, I thought anywhere in USA should be the same shipping time...


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That's what I thought, especially considering USPS does special Sunday deliveries for Amazon (from what I heard).

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[das boots]

I believe that would be heavier when warmed up and warm(40 vs 30), and lighter when the oil is cold (0 vs 30).

My bad. I did make an Edit on my response. It is M1 0W-40.

[yj4x4]

Are there any downsides with going with the M56 valve cover?

[ELCID86]

Sweet. I hope it works!

And wow, some of you guys put in as much oil as gas!


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[Damian]

300 miles with 02pilot mod and so far seems like I have zero oil consumption. Should be able to log 1,000 miles in a couple weeks.
If it keeps up I will be one happy camper! Usually I'd be down 2/3 of a quart but it's still at the full mark!

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[san]

300 miles with 02pilot mod and so far seems like I have zero oil consumption. Should be able to log 1,000 miles in a couple weeks.
If it keeps up I will be one happy camper! Usually I'd be down 2/3 of a quart but it's still at the full mark!

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Man, that's awesome! Keep us posted [emoji4]
I plan to do it this weekend


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[Damian]

480 miles and only down half a quart. I would be down at least 1-1.5 quarts before the mod. Pretty sure this means i have a blown head gasket.

Will be doing a compression test and/or leakdown in the future. I expect I'll likely have to replace the engine, hopefully it will last till spring/summer.

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[ELCID86]

I was about to do a BG EPR treatment but am afraid it may increase my consumption (which is pretty minimal at present).


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[GotZHP]

Well guys, going to start following this thread. Appears I have a consumption issue. Dipstick was bone dry the other day, only to be noticed after the engine starting making a weird noise. Will keep everyone up to date with consumption rate. I have recently fixed OFHG, OPG, New dipstick O-ring, New CCV. I know I need to do my valve cover, but I think its contribution to oil loss is small.

I did do a far amount of hard driving after I fixed my fuel filter and vacuum leak at the fuel pressure regulator so lots of sustained revs is my suspect.

[holyc0w]

From another thread:



i think my catch can, with the heating system, is the best solution for any climate where it gets below freezing temperatures.

for warmer-climate folks - this mod (with a fresh CCV i might add - an old clogged one won't help much), seems like a solid choice - the vacuum results are the same as my catch can, which is important for good ring seal. also important is the 1-way check valve for the oil drain line - that is crucial. i'm recommending this simply for OEM-ness and ease of install. if you want a catch can setup, you need to be willing to check the can contents every so often, and you need the right can - 95% of the designs i've seen out there aren't very good.

What are the downfalls of the 02pilot mod with the check valve in colder climates? And can they be worked around?

[slater]

From another thread:



What are the downfalls of the 02pilot mod with the check valve in colder climates? And can they be worked around?

you still have the potential for the CCV system freezing. generally this can be 'worked around' if you only drive longer distances - say 20min+ at a time - as the engine really needs to get warm enough to burn off the condensation.

[az3579]

you still have the potential for the CCV system freezing. generally this can be 'worked around' if you only drive longer distances - say 20min+ at a time - as the engine really needs to get warm enough to burn off the condensation.
Not driving a car long enough to warm it up would fall outside the normal operating parameters of an engine, so this (having to warm up an engine) isn't really a specific E46 problem.

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[holyc0w]

480 miles and only down half a quart. I would be down at least 1-1.5 quarts before the mod. Pretty sure this means i have a blown head gasket.

Will be doing a compression test and/or leakdown in the future. I expect I'll likely have to replace the engine, hopefully it will last till spring/summer.

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I hope that's not the same case for me.

[Damian]

I hope that's not the same case for me.
1qt low at 700mi but I drive it like I stole it so your results may vary. I'll continue to keep track until I swap the motor.

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[slater]

Not driving a car long enough to warm it up would fall outside the normal operating parameters of an engine, so this (having to warm up an engine) isn't really a specific E46 problem.

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and not all engines have a CCV system as strangely-designed as the M54. ;)

[az3579]

and not all engines have a CCV system as strangely-designed as the M54. ;)

Doesn't matter. If you drive the car within its normal operating parameters then you won't have this problem.
Can't expect a car to behave properly if you drive it in a way it wasn't meant to be driven. :dunno

I work 2 blocks from home. Since I can't leave my car at home without having to move it constantly due to people having to get in and out of the driveway, I drive to work, but instead of driving 2 blocks, I take a 20-minute route all the way around town to make sure my engine warms up. Multiple cold starts like that without warming up the engine makes me cringe, so I counteract it by giving it a proper warm up. :thumbsup
I remember the days of mayo under the filler cap - no more since I started doing this! Gotta love the simple things sometimes...

[slater]

Doesn't matter. If you drive the car within its normal operating parameters then you won't have this problem.
Can't expect a car to behave properly if you drive it in a way it wasn't meant to be driven. :dunno

I work 2 blocks from home. Since I can't leave my car at home without having to move it constantly due to people having to get in and out of the driveway, I drive to work, but instead of driving 2 blocks, I take a 20-minute route all the way around town to make sure my engine warms up. Multiple cold starts like that without warming up the engine makes me cringe, so I counteract it by giving it a proper warm up. :thumbsup
I remember the days of mayo under the filler cap - no more since I started doing this! Gotta love the simple things sometimes...

that's all well and good, but dude, sometimes you can't plan every trip like that. i certainly can't. life happens. a car is a machine.

[stephenkirsh]

Doesn't matter. If you drive the car within its normal operating parameters then you won't have this problem.
Can't expect a car to behave properly if you drive it in a way it wasn't meant to be driven. :dunno

I work 2 blocks from home. Since I can't leave my car at home without having to move it constantly due to people having to get in and out of the driveway, I drive to work, but instead of driving 2 blocks, I take a 20-minute route all the way around town to make sure my engine warms up. Multiple cold starts like that without warming up the engine makes me cringe, so I counteract it by giving it a proper warm up. :thumbsup
I remember the days of mayo under the filler cap - no more since I started doing this! Gotta love the simple things sometimes...

You've got to be like one of five people in the world that would regularly do that.

[GotZHP]

So if the CCV is new, OFHG & OPG are new, and it has been verified that no oil is dripping from under the car, that means the oil is going into the engine. My rate seems to be alarming, yet there is no blue smoke out the exhaust pipes, even first thing after sitting all night. If the oil is being consumed, is there any other potential problem or is the assumption head gasket?

Car is always warmed up before driving and my commute to work is ~20 miles which takes anywhere from 15 to 45 mins depending when I roll out of bed. Trying to figure out what potential culprits could be because there is no oil under my car. Unless, it only drips when the car is running, but it would seem likely that residual oil would fall to the ground after any drive.

[Damian]

So if the CCV is new, OFHG & OPG are new, and it has been verified that no oil is dripping from under the car, that means the oil is going into the engine. My rate seems to be alarming, yet there is no blue smoke out the exhaust pipes, even first thing after sitting all night. If the oil is being consumed, is there any other potential problem or is the assumption head gasket?

Car is always warmed up before driving and my commute to work is ~20 miles which takes anywhere from 15 to 45 mins depending when I roll out of bed. Trying to figure out what potential culprits could be because there is no oil under my car. Unless, it only drips when the car is running, but it would seem likely that residual oil would fall to the ground after any drive.
That seems to be the general consensus. Culprit is likely the piston rings and has been a documented source of vanishing oil throughout the years across the m54 platform.

I don't notice smoke either unless I take it to redline, or close to it, but even then I had attributed it to burning the dust off the valves. Lol. Seems the cats do a very good job of hiding the issue.

A blown head gasket would also result in loss of coolant. So if you aren't losing coolant or dripping oil then all signs point to piston rings.

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[GotZHP]

That seems to be the general consensus. Culprit is likely the piston rings and has been a documented source of vanishing oil throughout the years across the m54 platform.

I don't notice smoke either unless I take it to redline, or close to it, but even then I had attributed it to burning the dust off the valves. Lol. Seems the cats do a very good job of hiding the issue.

A blown head gasket would also result in loss of coolant. So if you aren't losing coolant or dripping oil then all signs point to piston rings.

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I checked my coolant level the other day and it is still in range. I did have some leaking out from a connection at the expansion tank, which stopped weeping once I reset the locking U pin thing. Ill go check it once the coolant cools more. Wouldn't I find mayo in / on the dipstick and dipstick tube? That was the tell all sign with the T5s in Volvos.

[Damian]

Mayo in dipstick would be indication of clogged ccv.

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[GotZHP]

That seems to be the general consensus. Culprit is likely the piston rings and has been a documented source of vanishing oil throughout the years across the m54 platform.

I don't notice smoke either unless I take it to redline, or close to it, but even then I had attributed it to burning the dust off the valves. Lol. Seems the cats do a very good job of hiding the issue.

A blown head gasket would also result in loss of coolant. So if you aren't losing coolant or dripping oil then all signs point to piston rings.

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Follow up question. Is it necessary to replace the piston rings or could I just keep adding oil? Granted, cost of oil would eventually exceed the cost of parts & my time but to do piston rings means engine comes out, which means I have no ride, which means rental or GFs car. Also, If the engine is coming out and being taken apart, I am going to do just more than piston rings while I am in there....

[GotZHP]

Mayo in dipstick would be indication of clogged ccv.

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No mayo, so CCV is good. Replaced that early in my ownership of the car. I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets because oil was finding its way into the idle air ports from the failed CCV.

[edwin.colo]

Have you done your VCG?? Sometimes it leaks around the back and drips on top of the exhaust. It sometimes doesn't drip down, it burns on the exhaust.
Do you by any change smell like burning oil coming through your A/C vents?


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[Damian]

Follow up question. Is it necessary to replace the piston rings or could I just keep adding oil? Granted, cost of oil would eventually exceed the cost of parts & my time but to do piston rings means engine comes out, which means I have no ride, which means rental or GFs car. Also, If the engine is coming out and being taken apart, I am going to do just more than piston rings while I am in there....
BMW considers oil usage normal but all the research shows that only by replacing the piston rings can you stop the oil consumption. You can try a heavier weight oil but that's really just making the problem.

My consumption is pretty bad so I picked up a spare engine. I'll end up swapping out the piston rings and some other things, you know while I'm in there and then putting the engine in to minimize downtime. I'll document that process on my project page.

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[GotZHP]

Have you done your VCG?? Sometimes it leaks around the back and drips on top of the exhaust. It sometimes doesn't drip down, it burns on the exhaust.
Do you by any change smell like burning oil coming through your A/C vents?


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My valve cover does have a small leak towards the rear. Last I checked, there was hardly any evidence of oil seepage or leak. I run my A/C often as I am located in Socal, and have not noticed the smell of oil. I do need to do my VANOS seals, so valve cover will be addressed then.

One thing to note, this problem is relatively new. So unless my valve cover got substantially worse, almost over night, then My thought is towards the piston rings. My coolant level is stable, so head gasket seems not as likely

[GotZHP]

BMW considers oil usage normal but all the research shows that only by replacing the piston rings can you stop the oil consumption. You can try a heavier weight oil but that's really just making the problem.

My consumption is pretty bad so I picked up a spare engine. I'll end up swapping out the piston rings and some other things, you know while I'm in there and then putting the engine in to minimize downtime. I'll document that process on my project page.

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Just watched a lot of the 50sKid videos on YouTube and after this, Piston rings seem the most likely suspect (if VGC checks out). I have recently done my CCV, and I after all of my maintenance and repairs, i started to drive the car very, very hard.

He mentioned a piston ring supplier located in Van Nuyes that will sell a piston ring set that has the two upper rings from the M54 and the oil ring from the M52TU. I drive through Van Nuyes twice a week, so I plan on stopping in and checking out the hardware.

My to-do-list is very long and I still need to get a hood on my car so an engine rebuild is off in the far future. Meanwhile, I am thinking the 02PilotMod will be implemented. Creates great vacuum and is very friendly to the wallet! I would like a catch can setup but my cash flow needs to be allocated to more important items.

Maybe I can ask Santa for a spare m54 engine and turn my GFs office into my workshop :) That would go over well. It would be very fun to tear down and rebuild an engine. This task is actually on my bucket list.

[Damian]

Just watched a lot of the 50sKid videos on YouTube and after this, Piston rings seem the most likely suspect (if VGC checks out). I have recently done my CCV, and I after all of my maintenance and repairs, i started to drive the car very, very hard.

He mentioned a piston ring supplier located in Van Nuyes that will sell a piston ring set that has the two upper rings from the M54 and the oil ring from the M52TU. I drive through Van Nuyes twice a week, so I plan on stopping in and checking out the hardware.

My to-do-list is very long and I still need to get a hood on my car so an engine rebuild is off in the far future. Meanwhile, I am thinking the 02PilotMod will be implemented. Creates great vacuum and is very friendly to the wallet! I would like a catch can setup but my cash flow needs to be allocated to more important items.

Maybe I can ask Santa for a spare m54 engine and turn my GFs office into my workshop :) That would go over well. It would be very fun to tear down and rebuild an engine. This task is actually on my bucket list.
I plan on tracking down that same shop! My work is in LA and live in Covina so it's a bit of a detour but well worth the drive.

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[GotZHP]

I plan on tracking down that same shop! My work is in LA and live in Covina so it's a bit of a detour but well worth the drive.

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Cool, I work in Irvine and live between Garden Grove and Santa Barbara. Oil consumption is going to be a problem if it persists at the current rate because I drive over 500 miles a week. Just rolled 122,000 miles. I am expecting to put just over 20,000 miles in my first year of ownership. Considerable less than my BRZ which was 36,500 miles in 18 months of ownership but still, A LOT of miles for a 12 year car to face.

Going to install the 02PilotMod tomorrow and peak around some while I am at it. Going to inspect the valve Cover and try to attach some absorbent material near by to see if anything is dripping out and hitting the exhaust manifold.

[san]

Just watched a lot of the 50sKid videos on YouTube and after this, Piston rings seem the most likely suspect (if VGC checks out). I have recently done my CCV, and I after all of my maintenance and repairs, i started to drive the car very, very hard.

He mentioned a piston ring supplier located in Van Nuyes that will sell a piston ring set that has the two upper rings from the M54 and the oil ring from the M52TU. I drive through Van Nuyes twice a week, so I plan on stopping in and checking out the hardware.

My to-do-list is very long and I still need to get a hood on my car so an engine rebuild is off in the far future. Meanwhile, I am thinking the 02PilotMod will be implemented. Creates great vacuum and is very friendly to the wallet! I would like a catch can setup but my cash flow needs to be allocated to more important items.

Maybe I can ask Santa for a spare m54 engine and turn my GFs office into my workshop :) That would go over well. It would be very fun to tear down and rebuild an engine. This task is actually on my bucket list.

If you have done your ccv recently then that can definitely cause the oil consumption to go up, that's exactly what happened to me and I've read quite a few people had the same thing happen to them..


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[GotZHP]

If you have done your ccv recently then that can definitely cause the oil consumption to go up, that's exactly what happened to me and I've read quite a few people had the same thing happen to them..


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I've heard the same although I did it about 10,000 miles ago. Recently, i've started to drive the car much harder since i have fixed a handful of vacuum leaks and done a ton of other maintenance so I think revving an old motor a lot is catching up with it unfortunately.

[Dave1027]

BTW, doing the O2Pilot mod on a zhp is very simple to do. The 50skid goes through some elaborate method that is not necessary.

I used 28 inches of 3/16 heavy duty vacuum hose. Took me about 20 minutes to hook it up. My method is simple because I attach the vacuum hose by reaching around the back of the manifold and then from under the engine to the CCV diaphragm nipple.

[az3579]

So, I just checked my records today. I topped up my oil last (the first top up since implementing the O2pilot mod) at 257,823 miles. I now have 258,513 miles and the oil level is just a smidge under full. :biggrin

Normally my oil light would be on by now and I'd be a quart to a quart and a quarter (lol) low...

[san]

So, I just checked my records today. I topped up my oil last (the first top up since implementing the O2pilot mod) at 257,823 miles. I now have 258,513 miles and the oil level is just a smidge under full. :biggrin

Normally my oil light would be on by now and I'd be a quart to a quart and a quarter (lol) low...

That is excellent news!
I really want to do it too but it's so freaking cold [emoji24]


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[az3579]

That is excellent news!
I really want to do it too but it's so freaking cold [emoji24]


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Borrow a garage, phone a friend, or just pay the hour labor to have a shop do it. :)

[GotZHP]

So, I just checked my records today. I topped up my oil last (the first top up since implementing the O2pilot mod) at 257,823 miles. I now have 258,513 miles and the oil level is just a smidge under full. :biggrin

Normally my oil light would be on by now and I'd be a quart to a quart and a quarter (lol) low...

That is great news! My oil level seems to be holding almost steady, but I have backed off of the revs a lot. Engine is idle hunting again (great, ugh), and the SES for the fuel level sensor came on, so I have been taking it easy on my girl. I am closing in on 123,000 miles now and will be doing much more "scientific" oil level readings once I hit 123k dead. At the moment its more like, check dipstick, if low add random amount of oil, drive some more. I bought 3 quarts of oil three weeks ago, and I just tapped into the last one already : / Not stellar but I log somewhere around 500 to 600 miles a week. Rough math , 500 miles a week X 3 weeks = 1,500 miles / 2 quarts oil used = 750 miles per quart of oil.

I am going to install the O2pilotmod this weekend, and next oil change I am going to switch to Liqui Moly. Need to determine if I should use 5w30 or 5w40

[slater]

That is excellent news!
I really want to do it too but it's so freaking cold [emoji24]


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can't be as cold as it is here. put on a coat. :)

[Karl Lazlo]

Borrow a garage, phone a friend, or just pay the hour labor to have a shop do it. :)

How many burritos or pulled pork sandwiches for you to do the mod on my 2x M54B30s? I don't know the exchange rate.

[az3579]

How many burritos or pulled pork sandwiches for you to do the mod on my 2x M54B30s? I don't know the exchange rate.
I dunno, I didn't do it. I paid my friend to do it. lol

It certainly doesn't seem hard so I wouldn't mind taking a crack at it. I watched him do it and wasn't phased by it.

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[Vas]

I dunno, I didn't do it. I paid my friend to do it. lol


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Much disappoint.

[az3579]

Much disappoint.
Why, because replacing the CCV is such a colossal pain in the ass that I didn't want to bother?

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[san]

Borrow a garage, phone a friend, or just pay the hour labor to have a shop do it. :)


can't be as cold as it is here. put on a coat. :)

I'm being a wimp. Thing is I like to work on my car only on the weekend as this is the only car I have and I can't go to work without it and I haven't been home the past few weekends. But I did get close to finishing it one day, I connected the pipe to the back of the manifold and when I tried to connect the other end to the oil separator, I realized that the oil separator is covered with an insulation so I couldn't connect the pipe. I didn't have the time that day to remove everything else and remove the insulator so I put everything back [emoji52]


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[ELCID86]

Much disappoint.

lol. And I don't blame BP for not wanting to do CCV. #trunkmonkeywanted

[Vas]

I look at it as challenge accepted

[az3579]

I look at it as challenge accepted

I look at it as a chore. I really don't enjoy wrenching on cars, would rather just drive it.
You're welcome to do any future maintenance on my car if you want. :p

[Vas]

Don't enjoy wrenching ? Mind blown.

[slater]

Don't enjoy wrenching ? Mind blown.

LOL. vas, i share your love of wrenching - it is therapeutic, except if it involves rust - then it's a chore. i hate rust.

CCV isn't the funnest job, but it's not bad.

[Simmsled]

Has anyone tried ACDelco X66P to soak the pistons?
I keep reading that it is amazing and have a bottle to try out on my 325xi.
The theory being that the rings can be 'decarbonized', and oil consumption can be drastically reduced.

[dpark]

That seems to be the general consensus. Culprit is likely the piston rings and has been a documented source of vanishing oil throughout the years across the m54 platform.

I don't notice smoke either unless I take it to redline, or close to it, but even then I had attributed it to burning the dust off the valves. Lol. Seems the cats do a very good job of hiding the issue.

A blown head gasket would also result in loss of coolant. So if you aren't losing coolant or dripping oil then all signs point to piston rings.

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This doesn't make me happy :(

My oil consumption has recently spiked. It was holding steady at about a quart every thousand miles, and has recently accelerated to 1 quart every 500 miles. Like others have stated, no blue smoke out of the tailpipe, gas mileage isn't suffering, and no oil on the garage floor. If it is piston rings, gonna be bummed.

If it is the piston rings, would a compression check show this?

Can it be the head gasket if I am NOT losing coolant?

Car is going in for Inspection 2 soon...

[az3579]

This doesn't make me happy :(

My oil consumption has recently spiked. It was holding steady at about a quart every thousand miles, and has recently accelerated to 1 quart every 500 miles. Like others have stated, no blue smoke out of the tailpipe, gas mileage isn't suffering, and no oil on the garage floor. If it is piston rings, gonna be bummed.

If it is the piston rings, would a compression check show this?

Can it be the head gasket if I am NOT losing coolant?

Car is going in for Inspection 2 soon...


Sounds like you're being affected by the typical oil consumption a lot of us have. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do about it; rebuilding will just have the issue happen again later on. Make sure you checked the usual things (no leaks from oil pan, valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, CCV system in good shape).

The one thing that made a huge difference for me was switching to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 diesel oil. Consumption halved; went from 1qt / 600 miles to about 1qt /1200-1500 miles, depending on vehicle usage.

[stephenkirsh]

Sounds like you're being affected by the typical oil consumption a lot of us have. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do about it; rebuilding will just have the issue happen again later on. Make sure you checked the usual things (no leaks from oil pan, valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket, CCV system in good shape).

The one thing that made a huge difference for me was switching to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 diesel oil. Consumption halved; went from 1qt / 600 miles to about 1qt /1200-1500 miles, depending on vehicle usage.

Diesel oil?!

[az3579]

Diesel oil?!Yup. Lots of people use it on their non-diesel cars.

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[stephenkirsh]

What’s the advantage?

I think I recall seeing it at autozone for fairly cheap compared to mobil1 5w-30

[az3579]

What’s the advantage?


Significantly reduced oil consumption, in our case.
I was speaking to the guy at FCP about it and he was also saying the diesel oils have better "protective" qualities compared to the gasoline ones. I'm guessing it may be due to stricter requirements for diesel engines? I hope I understood him correctly. I did specifically ask whether it was safe to run in a gas-powered car and he said absolutely.

[stephenkirsh]

Interesting. I’ll have to look into this

[holyc0w]

I have an update on my oil consumption situation. It used to be that I had to add about a quart every 500-600 miles, which was every 1-1.5 months. I had some work done and now the light hasn't been on for several months and it was only down 3/4 of a quart today.

The major changes were the GAS CCV system and oil pan gasket. Unfortunately I haven't been monitoring closely after these were done to tell which one made the major difference and the gasket was done a few months after the CCV. Also there is another variable, since I had an oil change done at the time of the gasket and it's now on LiquiMoly 5W30. The consumption is still probably a lot but around half of what it used to be.

TLDR:
X+Y+Z = less oil usage

[Karl Lazlo]

Funny that you mention it. Just recently had that done on my 03: CCV, VCG and o/c with LM 5W30. 303k miles and still loses oil but not at the rate previously.

[dpark]

So reviving an old thread. Oil consumption has held steady around a quart every 500 miles. Tried the Rotella T6 oil, no difference. I do have an oil pan gasket leak but it is drops at a time (I have a plastic mat on my garage floor under the engine and it is literally drops every day).

However I recently took a road trip to golf at Bandon Dunes and drove 500 miles RT. I made sure the oil was full on the dipstick when i left. I checked the oil when I arrived at Bandon, no drop in oil. And checked again when I got home, no change. Apparently I burned no oil for a 500 mi RT when I typically go through a quart over that distance.

I did have the car on cruise control most of the way and was averaging 80mph.

Why did I burn zero oil on this trip? It is the constant RPM? Just curious why this would be the case. I haven't driven much since I have been back home, so can't tell if the normal oil will return. Just very odd to have no oil consumption. Any advice would be appreciated if someone had a similar experience.

[t.er]

So reviving an old thread. Oil consumption has held steady around a quart every 500 miles. Tried the Rotella T6 oil, no difference. I do have an oil pan gasket leak but it is drops at a time (I have a plastic mat on my garage floor under the engine and it is literally drops every day).

However I recently took a road trip to golf at Bandon Dunes and drove 500 miles RT. I made sure the oil was full on the dipstick when i left. I checked the oil when I arrived at Bandon, no drop in oil. And checked again when I got home, no change. Apparently I burned no oil for a 500 mi RT when I typically go through a quart over that distance.

I did have the car on cruise control most of the way and was averaging 80mph.

Why did I burn zero oil on this trip? It is the constant RPM? Just curious why this would be the case. I haven't driven much since I have been back home, so can't tell if the normal oil will return. Just very odd to have no oil consumption. Any advice would be appreciated if someone had a similar experience.My car consumes a bit of oil and I've found the same. Drove from Toronto to the SF Bay area and didn't have to fill oil even once.

Conversely I've found that when I autox or consistently drive my car hard, oil consumption is much higher than normal. I never let my oil get much lower than maybe 3 mm below the full line on the dipstick, so I've found that I had to fill up after a day of hard driving to maintain my oil level to within this tolerance.

It's because of the difference in pressure below versus above the piston rings. Higher engine loads and speeds create higher combustion pressure, so more oil is likely to make it past the rings and into the crankcase

[Thatguy_JZ]

I remember reading something that says the consumption is most prominent whenever you're in high revs but letting off the gas. So rev matching, downshifting, that type of thing. Has to do with changes in vacuum pressure.

How true that is, I don't know.

Have you tried the O2 Pilot mod?

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[t.er]

I remember reading something that says the consumption is most prominent whenever you're in high revs but letting off the gas. So rev matching, downshifting, that type of thing. Has to do with changes in vacuum pressure.

How true that is, I don't know.

Have you tried the O2 Pilot mod?

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I remember reading something years ago, where GAS did testing of the rear main seal, and simulated the O2 Pilot mod by applying the same vacuum pressure to behind the seal. He ran a smoke machine in front of the seal, and the smoke got sucked in. I forget where I saw it but I also remember seeing pics of the M54 rear main seal, most conventional seals have a coil spring around the circumference to maintain compression on the crank, but the M54's seal is low-tension and doesn't have one.

IMO the right way to go about this is either the GAS CCV, or the M56 valve cover - I wouldn't want to risk dirtier oil or blown seals with more crankcase vacuum

[Thatguy_JZ]

I remember reading something years ago, where GAS did testing of the rear main seal, and simulated the O2 Pilot mod by applying the same vacuum pressure to behind the seal. He ran a smoke machine in front of the seal, and the smoke got sucked in. I forget where I saw it but I also remember seeing pics of the M54 rear main seal, most conventional seals have a coil spring around the circumference to maintain compression on the crank, but the M54's seal is low-tension and doesn't have one.

IMO the right way to go about this is either the GAS CCV, or the M56 valve cover - I wouldn't want to risk dirtier oil or blown seals with more crankcase vacuumI've heard that as well, about the rear main sucking in dirt. I guess you could do an oil analysis before and after. A number of guys have been running the O2 mod for a while without failure. If you're going through a qt every 500 miles I'd think you'd be more likely to blow the engine from low oil before the trace amounts of dirt would do it in. Pick your evil I guess.

M56 manifold is an option but one that isn't really serviceable. The membrane in the cap isn't readily replaceable. The Russian one doesn't seal quite right and requires tweaking to provide correct vacuum. Replacement caps aren't readily available either.



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[t.er]

I've heard that as well, about the rear main sucking in dirt. I guess you could do an oil analysis before and after. A number of guys have been running the O2 mod for a while without failure. If you're going through a qt every 500 miles I'd think you'd be more likely to blow the engine from low oil before the trace amounts of dirt would do it in. Pick your evil I guess.

M56 manifold is an option but one that isn't really serviceable. The membrane in the cap isn't readily replaceable. The Russian one doesn't seal quite right and requires tweaking to provide correct vacuum. Replacement caps aren't readily available either.



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I haven't done a whole lot of reading on the M56 valve cover, so I'm not familiar with replacement options for the cap, but I believe there's a guy in Cyprus who is working with a machinist to CNC new ones.

Luckily I'm still quite a while away from all that - I only drive my car from April to October so I rarely see freezing temps, and by my best guess I'm going through 1L/4000 km or so with a stock setup and Rotella T6

[Thatguy_JZ]

I haven't done a whole lot of reading on the M56 valve cover, so I'm not familiar with replacement options for the cap, but I believe there's a guy in Cyprus who is working with a machinist to CNC new ones.

Luckily I'm still quite a while away from all that - I only drive my car from April to October so I rarely see freezing temps, and by my best guess I'm going through 1L/4000 km or so with a stock setup and Rotella T6

Yea, Paralokis or something like that. He's been around the E46 game for a while. He releases a batch every so often.

I've noticed a slight drop in my consumption as well since switching to T6.

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[dpark]

Thank you for all the quick responses. I have not decided what path to take on corrective action (Catch Can, O2 Pilot etc) since I don't have a lot of free time, my car isn't leaking oil like a sieve, and adding 1 quart of oil every 500 miles, while annoying, isn't a show stopper issue. I am the OG owner of my ZHP, I love it to death, and hope to keep it for many more happy years. It has been very reliable and a joy to drive.

The four things that have annoyed me are:
1. Cooling system (fixed and good for another 90k miles which will be another 6 years at my driving pace)
2. Burnt out headlight reflectors (temp fix with rebuilt reflectors)
3. Window regulators (a total PITA, but I did it myself with only the cost of badly skinned knuckles during installation)
4. Oil consumption

With the 80%+ city driving I do, the answers above explain why I was seeing the oil consumption I have, and a reasonable answer for why my roadtrip saw literally none.

As long as the oil consumption isn't shortening the life of my engine, I have some time to figure out long-term resolution.

My current thinking is to have my indy mechanic do a complete refresh of my suspension (150k miles on original suspension) and while he had the car up to also replace the oil pan gasket (there was a thread I need to find about some other minor, but potentially important part to get to "while you are in there" that could affect oil consumption). He will let me buy the parts from FCPEuro so that will save some bucks, but labor will still be expensive.

I already asked about "other types of fixes" for oil consumption and he won't do anything that isn't recommended by BMW because he doesn't want to be on the hook for something that turns out badly, so if I am going to apply any of the fixes above, I will have to do it.

[dpark]

Yea, Paralokis or something like that. He's been around the E46 game for a while. He releases a batch every so often.

I've noticed a slight drop in my consumption as well since switching to T6.

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I saw NO CHANGE in oil consumption with the use of T6. I bought it when Walmart had a sale on them. Made no appreciable difference in oil consumption for me. I did have high hopes on this one to be a "mechanic free" resolution to my oil consumption problem...

[Galapolis]

There are many reasons as to why the M54 burns oil, but the main reason are the piston rings. They were a novel low-friction design that wore out over time, causing the high oil consumption that the predecessor (M52) didn't suffer from. In Germany it is relatively common to replace the rings. You might want to look into that depending on how much the consumption annoys you.

[Thatguy_JZ]

I saw NO CHANGE in oil consumption with the use of T6. I bought it when Walmart had a sale on them. Made no appreciable difference in oil consumption for me. I did have high hopes on this one to be a "mechanic free" resolution to my oil consumption problem...I think it's a long term thing maybe?? I dunno. On top of being thicker, it's very high in additives, which take time to really clean and do their job. My first round with it wasn't much of a difference, second round so far though seems to be doing better. Maybe it's all in my head.

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[az3579]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare engine for my ZHP since my rod bearings are toast. I will be using a combination of the M52tu and M54 rings on the new build, which should hopefully nearly eliminate non-standard oil consumption.

I'll let y'all know what happens over the course of the new few months.

[t.er]

As long as the oil consumption isn't shortening the life of my engine, I have some time to figure out long-term resolution.

If you're actually burning as much oil as you say you are, I think long-term you may be slowly clogging your cats. I suspect mine are slightly clogged because I'm constantly yelling at my car to accelerate quicker, even when I'm in the powerband and have my foot to the floor. But alas that could be attributed to so many things on my car like VANOS seals (even though the Beisan kit was installed 8-ish years ago) or just being used to quicker cars. I'd actually like to try driving another 330 with lower mileage just to compare


I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare engine for my ZHP since my rod bearings are toast. I will be using a combination of the M52tu and M54 rings on the new build, which should hopefully nearly eliminate non-standard oil consumption.

I'll let y'all know what happens over the course of the new few months.

Yeah I believe this is what 50skid did as well given the more conventional oil scrapper ring design. Looking forward to it

[foolio]

Did you do any blueprinting on the engine you are rebuilding? Just curious to know what you found. I also have a m54b30 on the stand now and while I don’t have the numbers in front of me I did have excessive wear on the oil control rings. Luckily my cylinder bore measurements were still within normal tolerances. Haven’t decided what to do for new rings yet myself. Honestly, I’ll probably just go stock.

[dpark]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare engine for my ZHP since my rod bearings are toast. I will be using a combination of the M52tu and M54 rings on the new build, which should hopefully nearly eliminate non-standard oil consumption.

I'll let y'all know what happens over the course of the new few months.

If it goes well for you, that would be the path I would be most interested in.

[dpark]

If you're actually burning as much oil as you say you are, I think long-term you may be slowly clogging your cats. I suspect mine are slightly clogged because I'm constantly yelling at my car to accelerate quicker, even when I'm in the powerband and have my foot to the floor. But alas that could be attributed to so many things on my car like VANOS seals (even though the Beisan kit was installed 8-ish years ago) or just being used to quicker cars. I'd actually like to try driving another 330 with lower mileage just to compare

Actually I feel my car is still quite "spritely" given its age. I don't do any drop-the-clutch drag race starts with it anymore, but I do wring it out every so often, and it still pulls hard in 2nd. As for clogged cats, I have no way of knowing.

[az3579]

Did you do any blueprinting on the engine you are rebuilding? Just curious to know what you found.

I had to look up what that even meant, so perhaps that answers your question. :)
It sounds like too much work, honestly. I'm working on the engine in my friend's garage about an hour from me in the little free time I have, so I like to maximize my work time when I'm there.



I also have a m54b30 on the stand now and while I don’t have the numbers in front of me I did have excessive wear on the oil control rings. Luckily my cylinder bore measurements were still within normal tolerances. Haven’t decided what to do for new rings yet myself. Honestly, I’ll probably just go stock.

If I understand it correctly, the current ring design for the M54 is a revised design that's supposed to be better than what we had from the factory. However, I still didn't want to take the risk and the M52tu/M54 combo route appears to be pretty bulletproof. Of course the downside to this is having to buy two sets of piston rings.

[foolio]

No problem, man. I fully understand.


If I understand it correctly, the current ring design for the M54 is a revised design that's supposed to be better than what we had from the factory. However, I still didn't want to take the risk and the M52tu/M54 combo route appears to be pretty bulletproof. Of course the downside to this is having to buy two sets of piston rings.

That’s interesting info. I’ll make note of that when I decide.

[das boots]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a spare engine for my ZHP since my rod bearings are toast. I will be using a combination of the M52tu and M54 rings on the new build, which should hopefully nearly eliminate non-standard oil consumption.

I'll let y'all know what happens over the course of the new few months.

Post photos and write up to the Forum Projects when you are done.