E46 BMW Control Arm Bushing DIY doityourself

[kayger12]

Since this is a common failure item for our cars, I figured I'd throw a DIY in here.

For starters, this is what a bad CAB looks like:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ut_3wmqOXeI

Make sure that you have new bolts for your new CABs. If you don't, I've been told by independent mechs that it is acceptable to reuse the old bolts with some blue locktite.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-25-22_86.jpg

1. Get the car up on jack stands and remove the front tires. I like to put the tires under the car as an extra safety measure so I feel a little better while crawling around under the car.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_10-57-27_633.jpg

2. Remove the splash shield. Now's a good time to Simple Green or otherwise clean up the splash shield so you can easily spot any leaks in the future. Mine had some oil on it from either my former leaking VCG or the Vanos job.

3. Now we're moving on to the aluminum sub frame brace. Start by removing the 4 rubber plugs that cover the access holes for the bolts (pictured below) Note: my 325 did not have these-- was surprised to see them when I got under the ZHP

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-03-15_389-2.jpg

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-17-47_415.jpg

4. Now Remove the aluminum sub frame brace by removing the 8 bolts shown below (picture still shows rubber plugs which you should have just removed).

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-03-15_389-1.jpg

5. If you have auto-leveling headlights, remove the nut that secures the auto-leveling sensor to the passenger side control arm and pull the leveler straight up and clear of the control arm (pic below). If you don't do this and push down too hard on the control arm during the removal of the CABs, you risk breaking the sensor.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-23-12_501-1.jpg

6. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the passenger side control arm bushing (pic below).

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_11-23-12_501-2.jpg

7. Get your three-jaw puller and remove the old bushing. In my case, the puller removed the carrier but left the inner portion of the bushing on the control arm. I had to keep at it for a little while with the puller to get the inner portion off. Just be patient and it will come.

8. Repeat steps 6/7 for the drivers side.

9. Use some cheap dish soap to lubricate the inside of the new passenger side bushing and press the new bushing onto the control arm. This takes a fair amount of force. You can use a dead blow hammer. I didn't have a dead blow so I used a block of wood and a 4 lb sledge.

10. Lift the control arm so the holes of the carrier line up to the mounting holes on the car. It may be necessary to twist the bushing on the control arm a little to get it to line up properly.

11. Secure with your new bolts (or old bolts with blue locktite). Torque to 44 ft lbs.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_12-57-02_746.jpg

12. Repeat steps 10/11 for drivers side.

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-03-27_12-56-46_942.jpg

13. Lower the auto-leveling sensor back into the hole in the passenger side control arm and secure with the nut.

14. Replace the aluminum sub frame brace using the 8 bolts. Do not tighten the bolts when you start replacing them. You may need some play to get all of the holes lined up properly. Once you have all 8 bolts properly seated, torque the bolts to 43 ft lbs and then 90degrees plus 30 degrees with a torque angle gauge. I do not have an angle gauge so I went 43 ft lbs plus Uncle Keith's eyeball 30 degrees...

15. Replace the splash shield.

16. Remount your tires.

17. Lower your ride and torque your lug bolts to 88 ft lbs. Make sure you get the front tires back on the ground to load the suspension before the soap dries up. You should have plenty of time to do this, so don't rush and dump your car off of the jack stands-- just don't leave her up in the air for another couple of hours.

18. Have a beer, cigar, yoo hoo, or whatever else you use to celebrate a job well done.

Short cut Method: Courtesy of Lespaulman, here is a short cut and much faster way to get the LCABS off:


This is a well written DIY, but fwiw, there is an exceptionally easier way to do this.

After you remove both bolts from the LCAB, the control arm and bushing drop away from the frame. Put one of the bolts back into it's threaded hole about 1/2 way. Take the tip of a long pry bar (I use a 42" or a 60") and wedge against the bolt head. Put the shaft of the pry bar on the metal bottom of the bushing. Use the pry bar to push the bushing off the control arm. Using this method and full air tools, it takes less then 15 min from start to finish to replace BOTH sides :)


Sent from an over-glorified pager



Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[danewilson77]

Very nice my man. Suspension should be loaded prior to soapy water drying up also.

Nice touch with the HID Auto level comment. Like!

[kayger12]

Good info, DW. Added.

[danewilson77]

Good info, DW. Added.

Keith, I appreciate you taking the time to document and type this up for the site. Truly a class act.

Note: I would rather have the car fall on me than the 135's...lol....j/k. Nice safety touch. What about goggles? Hehe.

[kayger12]

Note: I would rather have the car fall on me than the 135's...lol....j/k. Nice safety touch. What about goggles? Hehe.

LOL- that was exactly what I was thinking as I was pushing them under there.

I had to settle for my eye glasses for eye pro. Can't put contacts back in until Tuesday and don't have goggles that would fit over my glasses.

And as for taking the time to document this stuff-- just following your lead my friend. If I give back half as much to this community as you have I'll be feeling pretty good about things...

[danewilson77]

:blushing

[adb1028]

Nice write up Keith. I'll be tackling this when the 135's go on in 2 weeks. A few questions though:

1. Whats a three jaw puller? Do you need one or can the job be done without one/or with something else?
2. Whats with the soapy water? Just to help slide the new bushing on?

[danewilson77]

The job can be done without a 3 jaw puller. I usually use a dremel.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/images-7.jpg

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[kayger12]

Nice write up Keith. I'll be tackling this when the 135's go on in 2 weeks. A few questions though:

1. Whats a three jaw puller? Do you need one or can the job be done without one/or with something else?
2. Whats with the soapy water? Just to help slide the new bushing on?

I got my 3 jaw puller set from Harbor Freight. I believe they have a store in Brick. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-8832.html

I use straight dish soap as opposed to soapy water. It acts as a lubricant so the bushing goes on easier and also so it sets properly when you load the suspension.

I also read a DIY where the guy used glass cleaner as a lubricant, but that seems like it would dry up way too fast for me.

You can use anything that will dry up-- you just want to avoid using things like oil or grease which won't dry.

If you want to meet up somewhere, you can borrow my puller set. Just shoot me a PM or a call if you still have my number.

[danewilson77]

Got mine there also brother.

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[adb1028]

I got my 3 jaw puller set from Harbor Freight. I believe they have a store in Brick. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-8832.html

I use straight dish soap as opposed to soapy water. It acts as a lubricant so the bushing goes on easier and also so it sets properly when you load the suspension.

I also read a DIY where the guy used glass cleaner as a lubricant, but that seems like it would dry up way too fast for me.

You can use anything that will dry up-- you just want to avoid using things like oil or grease which won't dry.

If you want to meet up somewhere, you can borrow my puller set. Just shoot me a PM or a call if you still have my number.
No need Keith, thanks for the offer though. Just found out my dad has a puller and a dremel so I'm covered on that front.

What else should I do while I'm in there? I just hit 60k.

[danewilson77]

Inspect inner and outer ball joints, and end links.

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[kayger12]

What he said.

Reach out if you need anything.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[VA//M3]

Windex also does the trick

[kayger12]

Windex also does the trick

I read that. Seems like it would dry way too fast :dunno

Sent from section 115 of Citizens Bank Park. Go Phils!

[danewilson77]

I read that. Seems like our would dry way too fast :dunno

Sent from section 115 of Citizens Bank Park. Go Phils!

Pirates fan....hehe

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[kayger12]

Pirates fan....hehe

Droid! Srs Legitness!

Sorry about that ;)

Sent from section 115 of Citizens Bank Park. Go Phils!

[danewilson77]

Sorry about that ;)

Sent from section 115 of Citizens Bank Park. Go Phils!

And Yankees. Those are my two teams....well and the Tigers.

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[kayger12]

And Yankees. Those are my two teams....well and the Tigers.

Droid! Srs Legitness!

Lol.

Sent from section 115 of Citizens Bank Park. Go Phils!

[bcleaver]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm in the process of replacing mine. Got them off no problem, now I just need to stalk my neighbor to borrow his press so I can get the old bushing out and my new powerflex bushings in...

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Keith, well done on the DIY. I just found the youtube video on Google. Points right back to this thread. Good job.

[danewilson77]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm in the process of replacing mine. Got them off no problem, now I just need to stalk my neighbor to borrow his press so I can get the old bushing out and my new powerflex bushings in...

Will PF bushings fit in the stock lollipops?

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

[kayger12]

Keith, well done on the DIY. I just found the youtube video on Google. Points right back to this thread. Good job.

Thanks, Boss.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[GSEN820]

This is the next item to fix on my car after I install camber kit. This is a great write up love the pics.........

[Cadeez]

Nice DIY, but I have to say it is a little misleading, at least for me personally it wasn't quite this easy... I just replaced my control arm last week and I wish it went this smoothly.

Couple things...
- First off I didn't have to remove the aluminum brace underneath, on my sedan it wasn't in the way, so you can leave it on the car and save a little time there. Up to you of course.
- Secondly, I removed the control arm completely (it's only 2 bolts holding on the ball joints), this allows you full access to the removal/installation of the bushing.
- You will definitely need a puller to get the bushing off the control arm, it is the only way. But where my experience differs from this DIY is the reinstallation of the bushing to the control arm, I was not able to do it on my own. I lubed that thing up like it was a freakin porn star, and I tried everything to get it all the way on! I tried pressure, a hammer, a block and sledge, etc. Nothin. I ended up heading down to my local indy shop and they pressed it in for me. I'm told this is the best way, for me it was the only way. Also keep in mind that the bushing if full of liquid, so if you beat the crap out of it trying to get it on you could potentially rupture the rubber bushing and it would be worthless.

Bottom line, if the bushing doesn't slip on without any banging or force then you're good to go, if there's resistance I would suggest having a shop press it on for you. They might charge you $10-$20, but it's better that ordering a new part and pulling all of your hair out. At least that's my 2 cents.

[Alphatek45]

^ strange. Mine popped right on with a block and sledge. Just Like in the DIY. Wonder what the difference is.
What kind of cabs did you go with?

[Mtnman]

Yeah. What did you use? I used Meyle HD's. Changed them tonight in 1.5 hours using this DIY. The new bushings went right on with arm grease, then i used a block of wood (2x4) to hit them twice, and they were in. Didnt even need the sledge. Wonder what the difference is?

[kayger12]

Nice DIY, but I have to say it is a little misleading, at least for me personally it wasn't quite this easy... I just replaced my control arm last week and I wish it went this smoothly.

Couple things...
- First off I didn't have to remove the aluminum brace underneath, on my sedan it wasn't in the way, so you can leave it on the car and save a little time there. Up to you of course.
- Secondly, I removed the control arm completely (it's only 2 bolts holding on the ball joints), this allows you full access to the removal/installation of the bushing.
- You will definitely need a puller to get the bushing off the control arm, it is the only way. But where my experience differs from this DIY is the reinstallation of the bushing to the control arm, I was not able to do it on my own. I lubed that thing up like it was a freakin porn star, and I tried everything to get it all the way on! I tried pressure, a hammer, a block and sledge, etc. Nothin. I ended up heading down to my local indy shop and they pressed it in for me. I'm told this is the best way, for me it was the only way. Also keep in mind that the bushing if full of liquid, so if you beat the crap out of it trying to get it on you could potentially rupture the rubber bushing and it would be worthless.

Bottom line, if the bushing doesn't slip on without any banging or force then you're good to go, if there's resistance I would suggest having a shop press it on for you. They might charge you $10-$20, but it's better that ordering a new part and pulling all of your hair out. At least that's my 2 cents.

Are you talking about installing new bushings in the lollipops? You shouldn't need a press to get the bushings onto the control arms. What kind of bushings did you use?

As far as the sub brace, I don't see how you could get the clearance to get the bushings off if the brace is there, but then again-- I didn't try. Did you drop the whole control arm because you couldn't get the bushings off otherwise?

Dropping the whole control arm seems fairly unnecessary-- especially with the pickle-fork beating you usually need to give the ball joints to get them to separate. I would think you would do more harm than good.

[Cadeez]

Haha well apparently I'm in the minority here, perhaps my new control arm had a larger end on it, who knows. Glad you all had such an easy time, I beat my head against the wall, emptied countless containers of lubricant, etc trying to remove/install these dang things! Maybe if/wehn I do the other side it will be easier...

[carsontl]

Just got my meyle HD's, gonna tackle this one this Saturday... any pearls of wisdom before I go into it?

I don't need the claw puller with the HD's right? Since it's just replacing the full bolt on assembly

[danewilson77]

You will need a puller or a dremel for new cabs.

[carsontl]

i got a dremel, what function does the dremel do that relates it to a puller?

edit: ah you just destroy the old one so it comes apart easier... I was trying to picture in my mind a puller addon for a dremel lol

[kayger12]

^ You got it. Just makes it easier to cut the inner ring of the CAB off of the control arm if the puller can't get enough bite to grab it and pull it off.

I only needed the dremel for one side of mine.

[danewilson77]

^ You got it. Just makes it easier to cut the inner ring of the CAB off of the control arm if the puller can't get enough bite to grab it and pull it off.

I only needed the dremel for one side of mine.

Yeah..... I just twist mine off then cut inner rings, with the dremel.

DO NOT NICK THE CONTROL ARM... OVER.

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

[carsontl]

you can get a loaner puller from autozone, but if it's more than $20 then i'm just gonna go grab the kit from Harbour freight

[echo46]

I had to use a three arm puller and dremmel to get the old ones off. The old bushings certainly did not go quietly into the night. To mount the new bushings I made a water and dishwashing liquid mixture and lubed up the control arms with the mixture. The new bushings slid on with minimal effort. The good thing about this type of mixture is that it leaves no residue behind.

[danewilson77]

Bought a puller. The issue is whether or not the feet will "catch" the lip on the CAB.

[kayger12]

Bought a puller. The issue is whether or not the feet will "catch" the lip on the CAB.

This was the issue I had on the one side.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

[echo46]

When I did this job, the three arm puller kept moving around and sliding off the CAB. The problem I had was that the end of the control arm is a rounded ball and I could not get the puller to seat correctly on the end of the control arm to pull the bushing. What I ended up doing was placing a small socket over the end of the control arm so the puller would seat inside the opening on the socket. It worked pretty well but I ultimately had to pull and cut the damn things off. Oh yea, be prepared for the oil to spill everywhere when you break the CAB.

[carsontl]

Oh yea, be prepared for the oil to spill everywhere when you break the CAB.

yeah i heard about that... this just sounds better and better lol

[danewilson77]

yeah i heard about that... this just sounds better and better lol

Unless they really need to be changed.... Then no oil.

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

[echo46]

Yea, your right Dane, when I did mine the left side spit oil all over my face and the right one was dry.

[carsontl]

Unless they really need to be changed.... Then no oil.

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

i don't know if they REALLY need to be changed, but they should be changed lol..


whenever i've had to hop on the brakes the steering wheel gives a decent twitch

[danewilson77]

i don't know if they REALLY need to be changed, but they should be changed lol..


whenever i've had to hop on the brakes the steering wheel gives a decent twitch

How do tie rod ball joints look?

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

[carsontl]

How do tie rod ball joints look?

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

actually I don't know, and I honestly don't know what condition they're in even if I'm looking at them.

once I get the car back from the shop i'll post some pics.

[danewilson77]

actually I don't know, and I honestly don't know what condition they're in even if I'm looking at them.

once I get the car back from the shop i'll post some pics.

Copy. We will try to help best we can.

Just so ya know... You have some superstar help there in Ohio.

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

[SureShot434]

Copy. We will try to help best we can.

Just so ya know... You have some superstar help there in Ohio.

Sent from SIGFest 2012, via TTv1.5.4

I have some experience with these hehe

I have changed my CABS and then 6 months later changed my Control Arms and CABS

I'm in Indiana haha if you need help depending on what days and such I might be able to make a road trip to Ohio to help out a fellow Mafioso :)

[carsontl]

I have some experience with these hehe

I have changed my CABS and then 6 months later changed my Control Arms and CABS

I'm in Indiana haha if you need help depending on what days and such I might be able to make a road trip to Ohio to help out a fellow Mafioso :)

that's a 4 hour drive! i'd break out some ribeyes and grill us up some proper food if you did that :)

[SureShot434]

that's a 4 hour drive! i'd break out some ribeyes and grill us up some proper food if you did that :)

Sounds good to me lol where abouts are you...send it to me in a pm

[SureShot434]

Just used google maps and appears to be 3 hours for me :) I love driving my car haha so it's no big deal. Now we just have to find a good date that will work, and see if anyone else wants to meet up maybe help and have our own little meet as i can't go to the meet in May :(

(p.s. its only three hours to get there because I will be coming from Fort Wayne, it will be 4 hours to get back to Peru)

[carsontl]

we should do a post in the meets section haha

[SureShot434]

we should do a post in the meets section haha

I second that motion lol what dates are we looking at so we can make a thread? Friday and Saturday, or just Saturday?

[05ZHPCPE]

I followed the DIY and is right on for Coupes, minus the oil leakage and that I did the swap on ramps. I went with an "underdog" FCAB and results are fantastic! 99,000 miles were on the originals... I have the RCAB's in hand, and then an alignment.

[LivesNearCostco]

Did my FCABs last week and this DIY was helpful to me. Except I believed some other thread somewhere saying I could pull off the old ones with a C-clamp, but that didn't work so I ended up using both the 5" C-clamp and 3-jaw puller set I bought at Harbor Freight. Penny-wise, pound-foolish! The AKG 80A poly ones went on with a rubber mallet and no lube.

I re-used the lollypop bolts but forgot about the blue loctite. Need to get under there again. Hopefully it's possible to remove and reinstall each lollypop bolt without removing the reinforcement plate. Then of course I have re-used my reinforcement plate bolts several times and those are supposed to be use-once (torque-to-yield) bolts.

[derbo]

One quick tip too. Glass cleaner (the foam one) makes this slip on very easily when hammering back in.

[Lespaulman16]

This is a well written DIY, but fwiw, there is an exceptionally easier way to do this.

After you remove both bolts from the LCAB, the control arm and bushing drop away from the frame. Put one of the bolts back into it's threaded hole about 1/2 way. Take the tip of a long pry bar (I use a 42" or a 60") and wedge against the bolt head. Put the shaft of the pry bar on the metal bottom of the bushing. Use the pry bar to push the bushing off the control arm. Using this method and full air tools, it takes less then 15 min from start to finish to replace BOTH sides :)


Sent from an over-glorified pager

[kayger12]

This is a well written DIY, but fwiw, there is an exceptionally easier way to do this.

After you remove both bolts from the LCAB, the control arm and bushing drop away from the frame. Put one of the bolts back into it's threaded hole about 1/2 way. Take the tip of a long pry bar (I use a 42" or a 60") and wedge against the bolt head. Put the shaft of the pry bar on the metal bottom of the bushing. Use the pry bar to push the bushing off the control arm. Using this method and full air tools, it takes less then 15 min from start to finish to replace BOTH sides :)


Sent from an over-glorified pager

That is freakin awesome!

Exceptionally easier is an understatement, lol. This was the biggest pita part of the whole thing.

Looking forward to going this route next time.

Might just be the best tip I've ever seen in here. Thanks for posting.

Edit: added to original post.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[danewilson77]

That is freakin awesome!

Exceptionally easier is an understatement, lol. This was the biggest pita part of the whole thing.

Looking forward to going this route next time.

Might just be the best tip I've ever seen in here. Thanks for posting.

Edit: added to original post.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

+1

[Sean330]

great diy! i used it to do my fcabs a couple weeks ago. i ended up only being able to get my hands on a two jaw puller but it did the job.

[echo46]

I used Meyle HD Cabs and am now a bit concerned about their quality. I think I have about 5,000 miles on them and they seem fine. The reason I question their quality is the following. I recently did a full suspension replace on my e36 and bought Meyle HD shock mounts to replace the original BMW mounts. Let me tell you I had huge rubbing and figment issues for months. I took the struts on an off at least 6 times trying to find why my suspension was making weird noises. Finally I realized that the Meyle mounts were slightly too small. I bought BMW mounts and they were much beefier and just better built. Put them on and the car is perfect. I used to like Meyle but I now only buy BMW or better replacement parts for both my whips.

[kayger12]

^ I remember reading that Meyle changed their manufacturing location/plant/process some time in the last year or two. It seems that their products after the switch are nowhere near the quality as before the switch.

I've had Meyle HD fcabs onthe ZHP for 20k miles now with no issues. but I installed them in March of '11 so I'm, thinking they're pre-switch.

Based on the current info about Meyle, I'll be going with something else next time.

[danewilson77]

^ I remember reading that Meyle changed their manufacturing location/plant/process some time in the last year or two. It seems that their products after the switch are nowhere near the quality as before the switch.

I've had Meyle HD fcabs onthe ZHP for 20k miles now with no issues. but I installed them in March of '11 so I'm, thinking they're pre-switch.

Based on the current info about Meyle, I'll be going with something else next time.

I have Meyle HD. Never an issue. 43k miles on this set. Replaced the day before the 2011 meet. The roads I drive on suck balls as well.

So KG....what are you gonna go with? Lemforder? BMW? Treefrog? PF?

[kayger12]

I have Meyle HD. Never an issue. 43k miles on this set. Replaced the day before the 2011 meet. The roads I drive on suck balls as well.

So KG....what are you gonna go with? Lemforder? BMW? Treefrog? PF?

Need Horney to chime in. I think he was the one with the info about the changes. I know I've seen a lot of people unhappy with Meyle in 2012.

I'll be researching before I make a decision. I'm not interested in poly, so I'll most likely go back to OEM.

If the Meyles hold up as they should, I shouldn't need to replace them for at least 3 more years.

[echo46]

Not that anyone cares, I will be going with BMW and Lemforder for the suspension.

[kayger12]

^When the time comes, I'm leaning towards that as well.

[echo46]

You know what, for a few extra bucks it's worth it. BMW and Lemforder parts are just made better and much easier to work with. When I buy Meyle or some other fugazy brand, I always find myself making minor mods to make things fir t perfectly. When I use BMW or Lemforder, the parts always fit perrrrfectly.

[kayger12]

I can't complain about the Meyle fcabs. They went on clean and have performed well-- so far. I use them on my 325 as well with no issues. It's a shame that their quality took a nosedive.

[echo46]

Yea, agree, my Meyle FCABS went on fine in 2011 and seem to be good. Hey, what year is you 325. My1995 325 vert needs new FCABs and control arms. I'm thinking Lemforder for the FCABS, Control Arms and tie rods (already did the end links). Also going to do rear upper and lower bushings. Thoughts?

[kayger12]

It was an '03. Sold it when I got the ZHP. I put Meyle HD fcabs and Meyle control arms on it. It had about 100k on it when I did that. I was happy with the handling and didn't have any problems.

In light of the issues now, I would say going with Lemforder is a good choice.

I'm a simple guy with suspension. Never was interested in coil overs, lowering, etc. I tend to stick fairly close to what the engineers that designed the cars that we bought for their handling (as designed by the engineers) envisioned.

[echo46]

I too am a stock kinda guy. The suspensions in the e30s,e36s and e46s are set up pretty good at the factory. Who am I to mess with that type of German know how and ingenuity.

[az3579]

Need Horney to chime in. I think he was the one with the info about the changes. I know I've seen a lot of people unhappy with Meyle in 2012.

Yep. Both sides on mine failed after about 20k miles.

Currently have OEM ZHP CABs in and after about a month, still feel as tight as they should. I can't say the Meyle's still felt quite as tight as Day 1 after a month, but they were okay for a little while. Will probably have to report back on the OEMs on a lowered suspension after a year.

[danewilson77]

Yep. Both sides on mine failed after about 20k miles.

Currently have OEM ZHP CABs in and after about a month, still feel as tight as they should. I can't say the Meyle's still felt quite as tight as Day 1 after a month, but they were okay for a little while. Will probably have to report back on the OEMs on a lowered suspension after a year.

Is there such a thing as a zhp CAB?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Vas]

I still have the UUC bushings to install. But its bloddy cold outside.

[Crickett]

Is there such a thing as a zhp CAB?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

A quick look at BMWFans.info yields a single P/N for the CAB; no special one for Sports Package nor Performance Package. (Though that's the same for the struts, shocks, & sway bars, & people doubt that the ZHP's are the same as Sport's, so . . . YMMV.)

[echo46]

I'm fairly certain they are the standard BMW CABs for an e46.

[az3579]

Is there such a thing as a zhp CAB?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

I don't know. I remember reading somewhere that the Sport and Performance packages used the same CAB, but I didn't know this for a fact. It didn't make any mention of regular non-sport models having this bushing, so I'd rather specify which one I got than to make a statement that is false. Pretty much the gist of it is, "whatever bushing the ZHP is supposed to have".

[Lespaulman16]

That is correct. There is no differentiation between luxury and sport package cab's. They are the same part


Sent from an over-glorified pager

[Vas]

Finally got my uuc control arm bushings installed. What an improvement over the meyle hd.

[danewilson77]

That is correct. There is no differentiation between luxury and sport package cab's. They are the same part


Sent from an over-glorified pager

Ok. That's what I thought. Thanks Guitar Dude.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[echo46]

So no difference in the bushing but there is a difference in the ZHP arm itself?

[danewilson77]

So no difference in the bushing but there is a difference in the ZHP arm itself?

Yes sir. The Control Arms are ZHP specific and will have the ///M sticker on them. The CAB is the same CAB as any 330............

Although post 16, below, tells me otherwise. Mmm...

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1002-E46-BMW-330-ZHP-Control-Arms/page2&highlight=control

[echo46]

Ah, I'll bet they are a bit more costly. Just checked my ball joints and bushings, all still seems good. I just read that post, need to do some research.

[az3579]

Thanks for the clarification on the bushings. Good info.


Sent from my iPhone 4S from Tapatalk

[Dave1027]

14. Replace the aluminum sub frame brace using the 8 bolts. Do not tighten the bolts when you start replacing them. You may need some play to get all of the holes lined up properly. Once you have all 8 bolts properly seated, torque the bolts to 43 ft lbs and then 90degrees plus 30 degrees with a torque angle gauge. I do not have an angle gauge so I went 43 ft lbs plus Uncle Keith's eyeball 30 degrees...

Can somebody elaborate on this? You torque the bolts to 43 lbs and then turn each 90 degrees and then turn each again 30 degrees? Is that correct?

[kayger12]

Can somebody elaborate on this? You torque the bolts to 43 lbs and then turn each 90 degrees and then turn each again 30 degrees? Is that correct?

Yep, you've got it right.

[echo46]

I used Uncle Keith's method and got pretty close.

[Dave1027]

I find it odd this easily bent aluminum piece requires such an elaborate torque method. It's not like it's critical like a cylinder head.

[kayger12]

I used Uncle Keith's method and got pretty close.

:like

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Lanister]

So what's the point of this extra measure? I thought that torquing to spec of 43 ft/lb is enough?

Sent from outer space...

[Hermes]

Torque to yield bolts, it's how they work

Edit: you need a torque angle gauge

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/objects_lg/52400/52393.JPG

Edit2: basically they need like 44.x ft/lbs, that's why they tell you 43, then the angles

[Lanister]

Oh snap, learned something new :)

Thanks :thumbsup

[Hermes]

No prob. It makes more of a difference on head bolts and important items like that, but it doesn't hurt to follow directions on all bolts in your car. Also, you don't need the snap on version. I think harbor freight makes one that works fine

[Lanister]

Good to know. I'll do that next time. Funny enough, since I didn't know about this I've been torquing these bolts to 43ft/lb and driving without a problem. I've had that plate off about 4 times now. I suppose that 43lb/ft is no slouch and it's not likely to come undone on its own.

[Hermes]

Another thing you should know, torque to yield bolts are one time use only (they stretch slightly). It might be that the ones for the thrust arm bushings are not in face TTY, but I don't have a copy of TIS to check. BP (or anybody else), what's your copy say?

Edit: based on Keith's original post where he mentions to have new ones I'm now sure they are in fact torque to yield. Basically, don't reuse them more than once as the stretch more every time and eventually will fail. Better plan is to just buy new ones if you plan to take the lollipop off

[Lanister]

Hmm perhaps it would make sense to order a set of news ones. My Akg bushings didn't come with them.

Sent from outer space...

[Smolck]

Just FYI, despite what it says when you go "by the book", I have done more CAB's than I can count and never had one single failure when re-using bolts. I also rarely torque the aluminum plate bolts with a torque wrench. I go by feel and nobody has died. Is that the "right" way? No. But I have been wrenching long enough to know what corners you can and can't cut. My $0.02 anyways.

[danewilson77]

Just FYI, despite what it says when you go "by the book", I have done more CAB's than I can count and never had one single failure when re-using bolts. I also rarely torque the aluminum plate bolts with a torque wrench. I go by feel and nobody has died. Is that the "right" way? No. But I have been wrenching long enough to know what corners you can and can't cut. My $0.02 anyways.

+1

I echo this.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[kayger12]

I don't have as much wrenching experience as you guys do so I don't trust myself to do it on feel.

I like the peace of mind of knowing it's been done to specs.

I'd recommend that anyone that doesn't have a good amount of experience use a torque wrench where practical.

[Avetiso]

+1

I echo this.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

+2

I rarely follow torque specs. Depends on what I'm doing.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Hermes]

Just FYI, despite what it says when you go "by the book", I have done more CAB's than I can count and never had one single failure when re-using bolts. I also rarely torque the aluminum plate bolts with a torque wrench. I go by feel and nobody has died. Is that the "right" way? No. But I have been wrenching long enough to know what corners you can and can't cut. My $0.02 anyways.

Although I agree it's not always necessary, they're cheap and for peace of mind I will change things when they tell me to. Maybe it's just my OCD kicking in

http://www.thebmwpartstore.com/oemparts/bmw-113/33306760652.html

$1.48 each, $5.92 total - not gonna break the bank especially considering you likely paid a lot more for the bushings themselves

[LivesNearCostco]

I read in another thread somewhere (bf.com?) that the reinforcement plate bolts are not actually TTY that stretch, and the real reason for the extra torquing angle is because the aluminum plate can later bend and leave some bolts loose. So what you're torquing to yield is actually the aluminum plate, not the bolts. I have re-used my reinforcement plate bolts several times and torque them to 55 or 60 foot-lbs instead of 43 foot-lbs + 90 degrees + 30 degrees. Maybe the 4 rubber washers in the front bolts act as a safeguard to prevent those 4 from backing out completely if they get loose. But hey I could be wrong.

For the lollipop bolts, I would happily use new bolts or blue thread locker, except I have already unbolted them 3 times in 18 months and expect to drop them again for the oil pan gasket.



I find it odd this easily bent aluminum piece requires such an elaborate torque method. It's not like it's critical like a cylinder head.

[danewilson77]

I read in another thread somewhere (bf.com?) that the reinforcement plate bolts are not actually TTY that stretch, and the real reason for the extra torquing angle is because the aluminum plate can later bend and leave some bolts loose. So what you're torquing to yield is actually the aluminum plate, not the bolts. I have re-used my reinforcement plate bolts several times and torque them to 55 or 60 foot-lbs instead of 43 foot-lbs + 90 degrees + 30 degrees. Maybe the 4 rubber washers in the front bolts act as a safeguard to prevent those 4 from backing out completely if they get loose. But hey I could be wrong.

For the lollipop bolts, I would happily use new bolts or blue thread locker, except I have already unbolted them 3 times in 18 months and expect to drop them again for the oil pan gasket.

I don't buy the plate theory.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[QC_ZHP]

Anyone do the job with Harbor Freight's 3 jaw puller? I know someone mentioned it earlier in this thread. Need to pick one up for tomorrow.

[kayger12]

Anyone do the job with Harbor Freight's 3 jaw puller? I know someone mentioned it earlier in this thread. Need to pick one up for tomorrow.

Yep, I did.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[QC_ZHP]

Good to hear. Just wanted to make sure they could get the job done.

[LivesNearCostco]

I did also. The center screw pivot of the puller sometimes slipped off the end of the control arm. I didn't punch or mark the end of the control arm to help keep the center screw in place.

[LivesNearCostco]

Agree it's a sketchy theory... but you believe the reinforcement plate bolts are stretching? Maybe I'm in The Nile just because I don't want to replace 8 bolts every time I drop the reinforcement plate.


I don't buy the plate theory.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[TigerTater]

Has anyone replaced there FCAB's using the original carriers and pressed the old ones out...? I found a couple thread's on E46F (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=140066) but just wanted ya'lls more respected opinion...Tackling this tomorrow.

[TigerTater]

Bump for insight!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kayger12]

To avoid the aggravation, I'd just go with one of the many options that include new carriers

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[TigerTater]

Yes I understand that, but I'm on a budget and I bought just the bushings to press into the original carriers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TristanHunter]

Yes I understand that, but I'm on a budget and I bought just the bushings to press into the original carriers.

Take the new bushings and your old carriers to a shop and have them press them in for you. Much easier than trying to do it yourself and cheaper than buying new carriers.

I just bought some z4m bushings and thats my plan for them. I figure $45 for both bushings and about around $30 to get them pressed in is way better than paying $60+ a piece for bushings with new carriers that you dont need.

[Lanister]

AKG poly bushings cost $170 a set including the housings. Once you install them, you can ship your old ones to them and they'll give you $70 core refund. Not a bad deal for no-headache solution.

[Smolck]

Yes I understand that, but I'm on a budget and I bought just the bushings to press into the original carriers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you have a shop press it is easy. Without one, it is difficult.

[QC_ZHP]

Awesome write up. Just used it this weekend and everything went great.

[kayger12]

Awesome write up. Just used it this weekend and everything went great.

Glad to hear. :thumbsup

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Johnmadd]

Is it necessary to get an alignment afterwards? Fyi I'm going z4m fcab's.

[ryankokesh]

AKG poly bushings cost $170 a set including the housings. Once you install them, you can ship your old ones to them and they'll give you $70 core refund. Not a bad deal for no-headache solution.

This is the route I went. Very good experience with those folks and love the bushings.


Sent from my iPhone

[san]

Im planning to change the control arm bushings... Does the ZHP and a regular 330ci have the same bushings? I'm getting mixed responses on this issue.... I found these online, are these the right ones??
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-front-e46-31126757623l

Thanks!

[derbo]

Im planning to change the control arm bushings... Does the ZHP and a regular 330ci have the same bushings? I'm getting mixed responses on this issue.... I found these online, are these the right ones??
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-front-e46-31126757623l

Thanks!

All E46 non-M use the same bushing. That is the correct part. :)

[ELCID86]

Im planning to change the control arm bushings... Does the ZHP and a regular 330ci have the same bushings? I'm getting mixed responses on this issue.... I found these online, are these the right ones??
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-front-e46-31126757623l

Thanks!

Some here recommend Z4M FCABs. Worth considering.

I think these: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-bushing-z4-31107838575

[derbo]

Some here recommend Z4M FCABs. Worth considering.

I think these: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-bushing-z4-31107838575

It increases Caster :)

[san]

Thanks for the info guys...:)

[san]

Just replaced the CAB... Feels so much better...

[WOLFN8TR]

AKG poly bushings cost $170 a set including the housings. Once you install them, you can ship your old ones to them and they'll give you $70 core refund. Not a bad deal for no-headache solution.

Giya do you have a link for these? I couldn't find them on their site. Thanks...:thumbsup

[Oli77]

Been a while this thread has come up for air, about as long as Keith has not been posting.

After changing my shocks, shock mounts and adding reinforcement plates I was happy.

2 months later my car is clunking and clanking pretty badly when I turn at uber slow speeds. Paid a shop to make sure everything was tight upfront and apparently it is.

I am thinking to get new FCABs. Any brand you recommend? Lemfoerder, OEM? Could play in the old FCABs cause these symptoms?

[ELCID86]

Lemdorfer. Don't buy Meyle HD.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[danewilson77]

Lemdorfer. Don't buy Meyle HD.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
Shawn 3:16

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

Shawn 3:16

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

:rofl


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Oli77]

Thanks Shawn and Dane, do you agree that old FCABs could be the culprit of the symptoms?

[danewilson77]

Thanks Shawn and Dane, do you agree that old FCABs could be the culprit of the symptoms?
How do the end links look?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

I have a clunk in the front right corner at slow speeds and suspect a outer ball joint as I just replaced FCABs and end links a few months back.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Oli77]

End links are fresh replaced maybe 6 months ago I think.

I can see play at the fcab when I move wheel in the 3-9 direction.

[ELCID86]

End links are fresh replaced maybe 6 months ago I think.

I can see play at the fcab when I move wheel in the 3-9 direction.

Either FCAB (go with z4m) or ball joints most likely.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Oli77]

Shawn, searching for the Z4M front control arm bushing leads me here. (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-54039-front-control-arm-bushing-right-e85-z4-m-roadster-m-coupe.aspx?utm_source=goog_product&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=31107836863&gclid=COm7y52_oskCFZCFaQodp9ANhg)

Is that the right part?

[Vas]

Pictures don't show the offset bushings. Check ecstuning

[Oli77]

Ok but do I need this offset bushing with a caster change which I assume will require an alignment?

Or could I stay at normal caster and still get the Z4M stiffness and solid feel with those I posted?

[ELCID86]

Should look like this.
22707


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[ELCID86]

Maybe the pic is just wrong PN looks right.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Oli77]

This? (https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-Z4-M_Coupe-S54_3.2L/Suspension/Bushings/ES48907/)

[ELCID86]

Yes. If you are going to press them yourself.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[Oli77]

Yup. Thanks.

Don't see how caster affect alignment much but you guys reckon this Z4M offset bushing will definitely require alignment?

[ELCID86]

Yup. Thanks.

Don't see how caster affect alignment much but you guys reckon this Z4M offset bushing will definitely require alignment?

Not a bad idea but may not affect it much. I probably would.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[chacend]

Just did this DIY this morning, on my birthday. Had no idea how much of a difference this would make, especially under hard braking. Was a little more ass pain than I expected, 3-jaw pullers are a pain in the butt, but I think I just earned a beer and a pizza.

[ELCID86]

Just did this DIY this morning, on my birthday. Had no idea how much of a difference this would make, especially under hard braking. Was a little more ass pain than I expected, 3-jaw pullers are a pain in the butt, but I think I just earned a beer and a pizza.

Nicely done. Happy birthday. Now go relax!