ATI Super Damper Install doityourself

[rkneeshaw]

So this was my labor day project today, and here are my notes.

For those wondering what this part does, do a google search for M54B30 harmonics issues and oil pump nut failures. Basically, if your car sees track time or hangs out at 6500+ RPM for extended periods of time, then you may be performing this procedure.

Tools you will need beyond your typical socket set:
At least 1/2" breaker bar, go 3/4" if you can.
22mm socket, 3/4" drive is ideal but I used a 1/2" drive socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter on the end of the 3/4" breaker bar.
Long jack handle that will slip over the end of the breaker bar handle, for leverage
BMW Flywheel locking pin, BMW Tool number 112300
3/4" flat washer

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg.html)

Remove your radiator fan assembly, AC and accessory belts, lower splash sheild, and the aluminum brace under the oil pan.

Rotate the crank to TDC

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg.html)

by aligning these marks

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg.html)

Then you can insert the flywheel locking pin. There is a blue plastic/rubber plug on the side of the block. I didn't get pictures, but, if you remove your stock airbox you can look down there and see it. From below, you reach up between the drivers side control arm and the engine block and remove the plug (feel for it) and insert the flywheel locking pin. In this picture, it is directly to the left of this bolt:

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg.html)

You may need to rock the crank back and forth a bit and then you'll feel the locking pin "click" into place.

For those unsure if you should use the flywheel locking pin for this kind of work, see this thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=953907

Grab your breaker bar, your jack handle, some big muscle, and a bit of courage

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg.html)

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg.html)

In my case the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter didn't break. It was a brand new ktool adapter. I was a little nervous, but it held up fine for me.

The stock damper slid off by hand for me, BUT, only after I removed my water pump pulley. I have the Turner underdrive pulleys so my water pump pulley is a little bigger than stock and was in the way. I'm not sure if a person with a stock waterpump pulley would have to remove it, but, at least you know to think about it.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg.html)

Next put a little anti-seize on the crankshaft snout to ease installation

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg.html)

And I can now confirm the ATI damper is still interference fit. It only slides on about 1/4" by hand and then needs to be drawn onto the snout of the crank using the crankshaft bolt.

This is as far as it goes on by hand, which is enough to align the keyway:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg.html)

But, it turns out that the crank bolt (with its "washer" or centering ring) is too short to use to draw the damper onto the crankshaft. The ATI damper's hub is about 1.75" deep compared to about 1.5" deep for the stock damper.

I scoured my city for a longer M18 bolt, checked auto parts stores, advance auto, home depot, local hardware stores, and a tractor supply store. Nobody had anything bigger than M14 except the tractor supply store, but they only had M18 with a 2.0 pitch. The stock bolt is M18 and either 1.5 or 1.25 pitch.

I decided to try a flat washer, this one is a 3/4" washer.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg.html)

And it worked. I was able to get about two full turns on the bolt and it started to draw the ATI damper onto the snout of the crankshaft. Slowly and steadily it slid on. I was able to crank it on there by hand fairly easily with my 1/2" ratchet until it tightened up at the end, then I needed the lead pipe to get extra leverage to tighten it up real good.

Stock specs call for 300ft-lbs on that crank bolt. I just don't have access to a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs. I tightened it as hard as I could with the shorter lead pipe I had, I figure it should be damn close.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg.html)

Also of note, my ATI damper came with a 5-rib AC pulley. I'm still waiting to here back from ATI if that is correct or not, but my car only uses a 4 rib AC belt. I was ready to leave the AC belt off while this got sorted, but it looks like the 4 rib belt lines up fine on the 5 rib pulley, and maybe its fine as is.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg.html)

Don't forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before buttoning up the underside of the car.

[johnrando]

Thx for the DIY

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[rkneeshaw]

And please don't hate on my filthy engine bay :(

[terraphantm]

Where does one buy one of these and how much do they cost?

[ELCID86]

Wow. Nice work. Were you having symptoms?


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous

[Sockethead]

Ryan, you'll be fine with the 5 rib crank pulley. My AC compressor has a 5 rib pulley on it and a 4 rib pulley on the crank.

Thanks for this DIY. Good to know that this can be done with common tools-except for the pin of course :)

[rkneeshaw]

Where does one buy one of these and how much do they cost?

These are sold exclusively through VAC Motorsports. I waited until they had a 10% off sale. The super damper itself is in existance thanks to a group buy on e46f several years back, looking for a better damper solution than stock, born primarily from the theory that harmonics are the cause of the oil pump nut failures on these motors when they are tracked and see high RPM frequently.


Wow. Nice work. Were you having symptoms?

No not really. Based on visual inspection I thought my stock damper had slipped because the rubber wasn't even all the way around the damper. But then I found a thread on e46f that shows that even brand new dampers have the rubber misaligned. So now I am left not knowing how you can tell if the stock damper is good or not. But, given the age of the car and mileage, and I want to track the car, and I wanted more insurance against oil pump nut failure, I went for it.

The engine is noticeably smoother above 6k RPM.


Good to know that this can be done with common tools-except for the pin of course :)

Thanks sockethead! Yes, mostly common tools, as long as a giant big ass breaker bar is common for you too :)

[Sockethead]

Maybe post over there asking for pics of a spun balancer? There are a lot more boosted/modded/ raced cars on that site...

[terraphantm]

These are sold exclusively through VAC Motorsports. I waited until they had a 10% off sale. The super damper itself is in existance thanks to a group buy on e46f several years back, looking for a better damper solution than stock, born primarily from the theory that harmonics are the cause of the oil pump nut failures on these motors when they are tracked and see high RPM frequently.

Oof, $900. Even with 10% off I'd have a hard time justifying that. Shame it costs so much more than the ATI dampers for other cars.

[rkneeshaw]

For real, it still makes me cringe thinking I spent that much on a damper. But, the cost of an OEM style damper is $300 or so. If you track your car often you're either probably going to replace the OEM damper a couple times or buy an ATI and call it good.