rkneeshaw
09-05-2016, 10:30 AM
So this was my labor day project today, and here are my notes.
For those wondering what this part does, do a google search for M54B30 harmonics issues and oil pump nut failures. Basically, if your car sees track time or hangs out at 6500+ RPM for extended periods of time, then you may be performing this procedure.
Tools you will need beyond your typical socket set:
At least 1/2" breaker bar, go 3/4" if you can.
22mm socket, 3/4" drive is ideal but I used a 1/2" drive socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter on the end of the 3/4" breaker bar.
Long jack handle that will slip over the end of the breaker bar handle, for leverage
BMW Flywheel locking pin, BMW Tool number 112300
3/4" flat washer
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg.html)
Remove your radiator fan assembly, AC and accessory belts, lower splash sheild, and the aluminum brace under the oil pan.
Rotate the crank to TDC
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg.html)
by aligning these marks
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg.html)
Then you can insert the flywheel locking pin. There is a blue plastic/rubber plug on the side of the block. I didn't get pictures, but, if you remove your stock airbox you can look down there and see it. From below, you reach up between the drivers side control arm and the engine block and remove the plug (feel for it) and insert the flywheel locking pin. In this picture, it is directly to the left of this bolt:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg.html)
You may need to rock the crank back and forth a bit and then you'll feel the locking pin "click" into place.
For those unsure if you should use the flywheel locking pin for this kind of work, see this thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=953907
Grab your breaker bar, your jack handle, some big muscle, and a bit of courage
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg.html)
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg.html)
In my case the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter didn't break. It was a brand new ktool adapter. I was a little nervous, but it held up fine for me.
The stock damper slid off by hand for me, BUT, only after I removed my water pump pulley. I have the Turner underdrive pulleys so my water pump pulley is a little bigger than stock and was in the way. I'm not sure if a person with a stock waterpump pulley would have to remove it, but, at least you know to think about it.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg.html)
Next put a little anti-seize on the crankshaft snout to ease installation
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg.html)
And I can now confirm the ATI damper is still interference fit. It only slides on about 1/4" by hand and then needs to be drawn onto the snout of the crank using the crankshaft bolt.
This is as far as it goes on by hand, which is enough to align the keyway:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg.html)
But, it turns out that the crank bolt (with its "washer" or centering ring) is too short to use to draw the damper onto the crankshaft. The ATI damper's hub is about 1.75" deep compared to about 1.5" deep for the stock damper.
I scoured my city for a longer M18 bolt, checked auto parts stores, advance auto, home depot, local hardware stores, and a tractor supply store. Nobody had anything bigger than M14 except the tractor supply store, but they only had M18 with a 2.0 pitch. The stock bolt is M18 and either 1.5 or 1.25 pitch.
I decided to try a flat washer, this one is a 3/4" washer.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg.html)
And it worked. I was able to get about two full turns on the bolt and it started to draw the ATI damper onto the snout of the crankshaft. Slowly and steadily it slid on. I was able to crank it on there by hand fairly easily with my 1/2" ratchet until it tightened up at the end, then I needed the lead pipe to get extra leverage to tighten it up real good.
Stock specs call for 300ft-lbs on that crank bolt. I just don't have access to a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs. I tightened it as hard as I could with the shorter lead pipe I had, I figure it should be damn close.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg.html)
Also of note, my ATI damper came with a 5-rib AC pulley. I'm still waiting to here back from ATI if that is correct or not, but my car only uses a 4 rib AC belt. I was ready to leave the AC belt off while this got sorted, but it looks like the 4 rib belt lines up fine on the 5 rib pulley, and maybe its fine as is.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg.html)
Don't forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before buttoning up the underside of the car.
For those wondering what this part does, do a google search for M54B30 harmonics issues and oil pump nut failures. Basically, if your car sees track time or hangs out at 6500+ RPM for extended periods of time, then you may be performing this procedure.
Tools you will need beyond your typical socket set:
At least 1/2" breaker bar, go 3/4" if you can.
22mm socket, 3/4" drive is ideal but I used a 1/2" drive socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter on the end of the 3/4" breaker bar.
Long jack handle that will slip over the end of the breaker bar handle, for leverage
BMW Flywheel locking pin, BMW Tool number 112300
3/4" flat washer
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1257029.jpg.html)
Remove your radiator fan assembly, AC and accessory belts, lower splash sheild, and the aluminum brace under the oil pan.
Rotate the crank to TDC
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937346.jpg.html)
by aligning these marks
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0937127.jpg.html)
Then you can insert the flywheel locking pin. There is a blue plastic/rubber plug on the side of the block. I didn't get pictures, but, if you remove your stock airbox you can look down there and see it. From below, you reach up between the drivers side control arm and the engine block and remove the plug (feel for it) and insert the flywheel locking pin. In this picture, it is directly to the left of this bolt:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0938267.jpg.html)
You may need to rock the crank back and forth a bit and then you'll feel the locking pin "click" into place.
For those unsure if you should use the flywheel locking pin for this kind of work, see this thread here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=953907
Grab your breaker bar, your jack handle, some big muscle, and a bit of courage
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941573.jpg.html)
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_0941516.jpg.html)
In my case the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter didn't break. It was a brand new ktool adapter. I was a little nervous, but it held up fine for me.
The stock damper slid off by hand for me, BUT, only after I removed my water pump pulley. I have the Turner underdrive pulleys so my water pump pulley is a little bigger than stock and was in the way. I'm not sure if a person with a stock waterpump pulley would have to remove it, but, at least you know to think about it.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1010012.jpg.html)
Next put a little anti-seize on the crankshaft snout to ease installation
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1226491.jpg.html)
And I can now confirm the ATI damper is still interference fit. It only slides on about 1/4" by hand and then needs to be drawn onto the snout of the crank using the crankshaft bolt.
This is as far as it goes on by hand, which is enough to align the keyway:
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1227450.jpg.html)
But, it turns out that the crank bolt (with its "washer" or centering ring) is too short to use to draw the damper onto the crankshaft. The ATI damper's hub is about 1.75" deep compared to about 1.5" deep for the stock damper.
I scoured my city for a longer M18 bolt, checked auto parts stores, advance auto, home depot, local hardware stores, and a tractor supply store. Nobody had anything bigger than M14 except the tractor supply store, but they only had M18 with a 2.0 pitch. The stock bolt is M18 and either 1.5 or 1.25 pitch.
I decided to try a flat washer, this one is a 3/4" washer.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1231561.jpg.html)
And it worked. I was able to get about two full turns on the bolt and it started to draw the ATI damper onto the snout of the crankshaft. Slowly and steadily it slid on. I was able to crank it on there by hand fairly easily with my 1/2" ratchet until it tightened up at the end, then I needed the lead pipe to get extra leverage to tighten it up real good.
Stock specs call for 300ft-lbs on that crank bolt. I just don't have access to a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs. I tightened it as hard as I could with the shorter lead pipe I had, I figure it should be damn close.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1305527.jpg.html)
Also of note, my ATI damper came with a 5-rib AC pulley. I'm still waiting to here back from ATI if that is correct or not, but my car only uses a 4 rib AC belt. I was ready to leave the AC belt off while this got sorted, but it looks like the 4 rib belt lines up fine on the 5 rib pulley, and maybe its fine as is.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/rkneeshaw/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg (http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/rkneeshaw/media/2003%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/IMG_20160905_1306055.jpg.html)
Don't forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before buttoning up the underside of the car.