Coilover Dilemma!

[ef_michael]

Hey guys,
As we can all agree, the 330i is a great car out the box. I was extremely pleased with the ride quality! But ive come to a point where I throw some nice wheels on and lower her a bit! :headbang

Ive done some research on the best coilovers to go with if you're not looking to break much bank.

Im looking for a nice drop. Looking to close the wheel gap and maybe tuck a little bit of tire. Might hit the track once or twice (nothing serious).

Anyways, I initially was deciding between the BC Racing BR, ST XTA and Bilstein PSS10 lol. I quickly eliminated the PSS10 as they were out of my price range. Now im deciding between BC racing (8k and 12k with swift springs) and ST XTA (aka kw v2's little bro?).

I plan to drive my zhp through winters, so id of course want something that could withstand Canadian Winters with all the salt etc..

Can any of you chime in and help me decide which coilover to go with?! Maybe some of you have experience with both and provide some insight into ride quality. I love the fact the two provide the ability to change damping, both come with adjustable camber plates (BC has adjustability in just the front i believe, not too sure about ST). From what Ive read on KW, id need spacers to clear strut? Not sure if id need the same with the ST's.

Anyways... HELP! lol haha


Michael

[slater]

where in canada are you?

i'd avoid the BC's due to corrosion issues with the springs.

check out the bilstein PSS (B14), it's almost half the price of the PSS10.

ST XTA might be nice - i would avoid the non-damping adjustable STs, personally - BTDT on another platform and they were underdamped.

[NoVAphotog]

where in canada are you?

i'd avoid the BC's due to corrosion issues with the springs.

check out the bilstein PSS (B14), it's almost half the price of the PSS10.



+1 for the Bilstein's. Ride is great, good options for height (I didn't want to lower her too much beyond stock, but the option is there). Handles great on the street and at the track. No complaints. Don't have to f**k with dampening adjustment.

25656

[BMWCurves]

+1 for the Bilstein's. Ride is great, good options for height (I didn't want to lower her too much beyond stock, but the option is there). Handles great on the street and at the track. No complaints. Don't have to f**k with dampening adjustment.

25656

:drool

[WOLFN8TR]

I'd avoid the BC's due to corrosion issues with the springs.

Unless you get the Swift springs. [emoji106]

[danewilson77]

where in canada are you?

i'd avoid the BC's due to corrosion issues with the springs.

check out the bilstein PSS (B14), it's almost half the price of the PSS10.

ST XTA might be nice - i would avoid the non-damping adjustable STs, personally - BTDT on another platform and they were underdamped.
I thought BC's were Charlie endorsed?

S7 Edge, out

[WOLFN8TR]

I thought BC's were Charlie endorsed?

S7 Edge, out

Yes they are. If you get some coilovers go thru FCPEuro, they have a Lifetime Warranty on parts.

[ef_michael]

Speaking of Swift springs, other than durability, what performance differences are there between the swift springs and regular bc racing springs?

[ef_michael]

where in canada are you?

i'd avoid the BC's due to corrosion issues with the springs.

check out the bilstein PSS (B14), it's almost half the price of the PSS10.

ST XTA might be nice - i would avoid the non-damping adjustable STs, personally - BTDT on another platform and they were underdamped.

I'm from Toronto!

[WOLFN8TR]

Speaking of Swift springs, other than durability, what performance differences are there between the swift springs and regular bc racing springs?


It's funny you ask as I'm currently researching the very same thing. I just bought some BC Racing coilovers and I'm looking at the Swift springs. From what I've read so far they provide better overall ride from their increased dampening capabilities. Plus they do not corrode as easily as the stock springs.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=778203


I am currently running BC's with swift springs. I originally ran them with the BC springs (8k/12k) but I wasn't happy with them and noticed that they were starting to rust after only 9ish months on them.

After upgrading to swift springs (8k/10k), they ride really well. The ride is smoother and the car feels very planted. I highly recommend upgrading to the swift springs!

[sillieidiot]

Speaking of Swift springs, other than durability, what performance differences are there between the swift springs and regular bc racing springs?

weight. they use less coils to get the same in/lbs vs. other coils. Even when comparing with Hyperco (also another good spring), they are a tad lighter. They also have more travel given the same rates. The main thing with Hyperco/Swift is quality control. The rates are very accurate compared to way cheaper springs.

[sillieidiot]

It's funny you ask as I'm currently researching the very same thing. I just some BC Racing coilovers and I'm looking at the Swift springs. From what I've read so far they provide better overall ride from their increased dampening capabilities. Plus they do not corrode as easily as the stock springs.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=778203

In that example the guy goes from 12k to 10k. That change alone will change the characteristics of the car for any spring. It does have a more usable stroke to bind, so if he (or you) had that problem because you're too low than the swift springs are a good match.

I don't normally even recommend BCR coils though. They have QC issues on the shocks themselves. I've had a few order come to my house for customers and it would arrive broken, or the welds were bad (where the endlinks mount). I suggest you really scrutinize over them if you are going to get them for safety.

[Vas]

Look into fortune auto coilovers.

[WOLFN8TR]

In that example the guy goes from 12k to 10k. That change alone will change the characteristics of the car for any spring. It does have a more usable stroke to bind, so if he (or you) had that problem because you're too low than the swift springs are a good match.

I don't normally even recommend BCR coils though. They have QC issues on the shocks themselves. I've had a few order come to my house for customers and it would arrive broken, or the welds were bad (where the endlinks mount). I suggest you really scrutinize over them if you are going to get them for safety.

Noted...Thanks Heiu!

[ef_michael]

In that example the guy goes from 12k to 10k. That change alone will change the characteristics of the car for any spring. It does have a more usable stroke to bind, so if he (or you) had that problem because you're too low than the swift springs are a good match.

I don't normally even recommend BCR coils though. They have QC issues on the shocks themselves. I've had a few order come to my house for customers and it would arrive broken, or the welds were bad (where the endlinks mount). I suggest you really scrutinize over them if you are going to get them for safety.

Yeah I understand that from a quality standpoint, they aren't the best coils to go with. But in my case, I need a set that won't break my wallet and still have decent quality which it seems the bcr coils seem to have according to reviews.

It looks like people go with the 8k/12k combination. If I'm going to be using Swift springs, should I go with that same spring rate? Should my choice be modified?

[slater]

I'm from Toronto!

you're welcome to check out my car next time i'm in the city. i live 2.5hrs east of toronto, but am in 1-2 times a month.

[sillieidiot]

Yeah I understand that from a quality standpoint, they aren't the best coils to go with. But in my case, I need a set that won't break my wallet and still have decent quality which it seems the bcr coils seem to have according to reviews.

It looks like people go with the 8k/12k combination. If I'm going to be using Swift springs, should I go with that same spring rate? Should my choice be modified?

Yeah decent quality to me is like KWs lol But that's just me. I mean after getting those broken shocks replaced and installed on my customers cars, they seem ok. Of course I couldn't go and push the car around like I would my car. But I could see it being perfectly fine just for normal driving and stuff. But again, just make sure you really look them over for safety. They seem to have pretty good CS. Contacted them, and they just sent a new one asap.

There are a lot of factors that go into making that decision tbh. Things like your current suspension, wheels, the roads around, etc. Also how you're going to drive the car. A lot of people tend to choose stiffer spring rates thinking it's better to be stiff when going low, but that's not what you really want. If it's too stiff, you end up losing traction. I think 8k/10k would be a safe setup for the street. It's pretty forgiving. That's what I'm currently running, after having Hyperco 550f/650r in/lbs springs (~ 10k/12k Swift springs). I think the 12k would work better on the heavier M3 than it does our cars. Besides, the great thing about having coils is that you could just swap it out to a different rate if you think it's not what you want later.

[Jconlin16]

In that example the guy goes from 12k to 10k. That change alone will change the characteristics of the car for any spring. It does have a more usable stroke to bind, so if he (or you) had that problem because you're too low than the swift springs are a good match.

I don't normally even recommend BCR coils though. They have QC issues on the shocks themselves. I've had a few order come to my house for customers and it would arrive broken, or the welds were bad (where the endlinks mount). I suggest you really scrutinize over them if you are going to get them for safety.

Yep, the reason why I changed from 12k to 10k rates was because I felt that 12k was a bit too stiff for daily driving in my area. I did stick with the 8k up front and I could definitely feel a noticeable difference between the stock BC's and the swifts. Even with lower spring rates in the rear, the car still corners just as well

[ef_michael]

Yeah decent quality to me is like KWs lol But that's just me. I mean after getting those broken shocks replaced and installed on my customers cars, they seem ok. Of course I couldn't go and push the car around like I would my car. But I could see it being perfectly fine just for normal driving and stuff. But again, just make sure you really look them over for safety. They seem to have pretty good CS. Contacted them, and they just sent a new one asap.

There are a lot of factors that go into making that decision tbh. Things like your current suspension, wheels, the roads around, etc. Also how you're going to drive the car. A lot of people tend to choose stiffer spring rates thinking it's better to be stiff when going low, but that's not what you really want. If it's too stiff, you end up losing traction. I think 8k/10k would be a safe setup for the street. It's pretty forgiving. That's what I'm currently running, after having Hyperco 550f/650r in/lbs springs (~ 10k/12k Swift springs). I think the 12k would work better on the heavier M3 than it does our cars. Besides, the great thing about having coils is that you could just swap it out to a different rate if you think it's not what you want later.

Yeah you're right. That's why im so unsure about spring rates lol. I'm definitely going to go with Swift springs. In terms of wheels etc, I'm going to be on 19s and I plan to just close wheel gap; at lowest, I'd tuck a little bit of tire. In terms of roads in my area, they aren't terrible but they aren't the greatest. And if this is something else I should consider when choosing spring rates I I'll occasionally have two passengers in the back. Still go with 10k rear or 12k?

[sillieidiot]

Yeah you're right. That's why im so unsure about spring rates lol. I'm definitely going to go with Swift springs. In terms of wheels etc, I'm going to be on 19s and I plan to just close wheel gap; at lowest, I'd tuck a little bit of tire. In terms of roads in my area, they aren't terrible but they aren't the greatest. And if this is something else I should consider when choosing spring rates I I'll occasionally have two passengers in the back. Still go with 10k rear or 12k?

Lol no worries, I was in the same boat. You could only go so much through recommendations since everyone has different setups and stuff that messes with everything.

With 19s, it's going to be a rougher ride already depending on the tires. Most likely it'll be some lower profile ones since normal profile tires look weird with 19s. I would stick with 8k/10k if the roads are just decent. i think 12k+ is like for smooth roads tbh. At least with my experience, it's great in smooth areas. But jumps around and slides a little when it's not. You can do the rest of the adjustment with the shocks. I think BCR has something like 32 clicks or something. Even though most of them don't do anything. It's like every 5 clicks you feel a difference. Basically the same as my ASTs which only has 12 clicks.

[ef_michael]

So then with the height I'm going to be at, should I be worried about rear passengers and rubbing if I go 10k? I'll have 255/30 in the rear in the 19's.

[WOLFN8TR]

I need a set that won't break my wallet and still have decent quality which it seems the BCR coils seem to have according to reviews.

It looks like people go with the 8k/12k combination. If I'm going to be using Swift springs, should I go with that same spring rate? Should my choice be modified?

PM Sent...

[sillieidiot]

So then with the height I'm going to be at, should I be worried about rear passengers and rubbing if I go 10k? I'll have 255/30 in the rear in the 19's.

Like I've stated before, making your suspension stiffer just because you're low isn't a solution. You should just make it so that your wheels can fit without rubbing in the first place. All the spring will do is slow down the rate, but you will still rub while screwing up with your handling in the process.

[ef_michael]

I think im just going to go with the 10k rear spring rates with Swift springs. I'm gunna really think it through the next day or two and then make my order. I hope there are no regrets haha

[ef_michael]

Like I've stated before, making your suspension stiffer just because you're low isn't a solution. You should just make it so that your wheels can fit without rubbing in the first place. All the spring will do is slow down the rate, but you will still rub while screwing up with your handling in the process.

Yeah I see what you mean. I just want to choose a spring rate that will feel solid yet comfortable (as comfortable as I can be lowered on 19s)

This is roughly how I'd like my ride to sit:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I3kD8rx2jeM/TjxBWatA4yI/AAAAAAAAA4I/KwB1GizZvgU/w1064-h626-no/IMG_6880.jpg

[sillieidiot]

Yeah I see what you mean. I just want to choose a spring rate that will feel solid yet comfortable (as comfortable as I can be lowered on 19s)

This is roughly how I'd like my ride to sit:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I3kD8rx2jeM/TjxBWatA4yI/AAAAAAAAA4I/KwB1GizZvgU/w1064-h626-no/IMG_6880.jpg

It's too bad that the KW V2s that he was using has a progressive spring rate so we can't just ask him for reference. But I believe their rate is between 300 and 500 lbs/in. The lower you went the higher the rate. I'm sure he would have been sitting at around 8k/10k lol

The shocks are more important in terms of comfort. I'm pretty sure 8k/10k will be plenty already. You can go the 12k if you think it's better. Like I said before, if you think you've chose wrong, just buy a new spring and swap it in. I'm pretty sure that either direction you go, you'll be fine with it since it's your first suspension, so you tend to let the bad things slide to justify the money you spent lol I know I did when I dropped down $2500 on my second set of coils with spring rates made for the track. Tried to double duty at those rates for a year :facepalm, then I was like screw this and dropped down to the 550f/650r (~ 10k/12k) I told you earlier. It's at 8k/10k now because I no longer track. Street only now.

BTW, is there any reason why you're going 19s? Why not 18s? It would definitely be more comfortable.

[Rovert]

So I was with my friend who has linear spring rates vs my KW progressive rates. He is heavy into auto cross so he was able to get a good feel of it with 20 minutes of driving it with varying street imperfections and corners. He felt that when he went to corner and throttle out there was just a split second delay for my KWs to squat and bite versus his linear springs which feel more instant and direct. He uses his car as a fun car so he doesn't need to worry about daily comfort. He did say that he prefers the way KWs felt on the street because of the progressive rate but he'd take linear on timed track events.

I'm used to the progressive now since I've run them on my 330 and current M3. The split second that I lose on punching the throttle at apex is so tiny that I don't mind it from having street comfort. Once you learn how to load a suspension up prior to the corner you will be able to extract a high level of grip which On public streets I could never make my E46s understeer or slide at speeds that would send me to jail. LOL.

[ef_michael]

It's too bad that the KW V2s that he was using has a progressive spring rate so we can't just ask him for reference. But I believe their rate is between 300 and 500 lbs/in. The lower you went the higher the rate. I'm sure he would have been sitting at around 8k/10k lol

The shocks are more important in terms of comfort. I'm pretty sure 8k/10k will be plenty already. You can go the 12k if you think it's better. Like I said before, if you think you've chose wrong, just buy a new spring and swap it in. I'm pretty sure that either direction you go, you'll be fine with it since it's your first suspension, so you tend to let the bad things slide to justify the money you spent lol I know I did when I dropped down $2500 on my second set of coils with spring rates made for the track. Tried to double duty at those rates for a year :facepalm, then I was like screw this and dropped down to the 550f/650r (~ 10k/12k) I told you earlier. It's at 8k/10k now because I no longer track. Street only now.

BTW, is there any reason why you're going 19s? Why not 18s? It would definitely be more comfortable.

Lol yeah. I'll probably just go the 8/10k route and then swap out springs if I'm not happy. I wish I liked 18s so I could have a better feeling ride but for some reason they look too small for my liking. Just not as aesthetically pleasing as I'd like lol

[ef_michael]

So I was with my friend who has linear spring rates vs my KW progressive rates. He is heavy into auto cross so he was able to get a good feel of it with 20 minutes of driving it with varying street imperfections and corners. He felt that when he went to corner and throttle out there was just a split second delay for my KWs to squat and bite versus his linear springs which feel more instant and direct. He uses his car as a fun car so he doesn't need to worry about daily comfort. He did say that he prefers the way KWs felt on the street because of the progressive rate but he'd take linear on timed track events.

I'm used to the progressive now since I've run them on my 330 and current M3. The split second that I lose on punching the throttle at apex is so tiny that I don't mind it from having street comfort. Once you learn how to load a suspension up prior to the corner you will be able to extract a high level of grip which On public streets I could never make my E46s understeer or slide at speeds that would send me to jail. LOL.

Hmm interesting. So essentially, kw's progressive rates are better suited for daily driving vs linear spring rates like the bc racing coils on the track? At the height you had your sedan, how did it ride? Was it bouncy at all? Lol the ST XTA coils were my other option lol.

[Rovert]

Nope it wasn't bouncy at all. And people that rode in it when I drove it 9/10 on corners just about crapped themselves. LOL

My 330 was setup for just a tad higher than 1.0G of lateral Gs.

[sillieidiot]

So I was with my friend who has linear spring rates vs my KW progressive rates. He is heavy into auto cross so he was able to get a good feel of it with 20 minutes of driving it with varying street imperfections and corners. He felt that when he went to corner and throttle out there was just a split second delay for my KWs to squat and bite versus his linear springs which feel more instant and direct. He uses his car as a fun car so he doesn't need to worry about daily comfort. He did say that he prefers the way KWs felt on the street because of the progressive rate but he'd take linear on timed track events.

I'm used to the progressive now since I've run them on my 330 and current M3. The split second that I lose on punching the throttle at apex is so tiny that I don't mind it from having street comfort. Once you learn how to load a suspension up prior to the corner you will be able to extract a high level of grip which On public streets I could never make my E46s understeer or slide at speeds that would send me to jail. LOL.

Yeah I like the progressive rates because it's very forgiving. I hate that to adjust the rebound on the rear, you gotta kind of take it out in the rear and spin it vs. using knobs. As far as performance on the street it's fine. I do agree that it does take longer to squat. But I felt that in both corner entry and exit. I don't like it when I have to take continuous hairpins. I feel like it takes too long for the car to rotate. However, this is entirely dependent on ride height (I was in an M3 with KW V2 .5" lower than stock). Since if you're lower, you actually make the KWs more linear since the lower rate coils are partially (or fully) collapsed.

You could get a similar setup to that if you used assist springs to be paired with your linear springs. I considered that for a bit, but it's way too much work to tune lol But if you have good shocks, it'll be comfy too.


Nope it wasn't bouncy at all. And people that rode in it when I drove it 9/10 on corners just about crapped themselves. LOL

My 330 was setup for just a tad higher than 1.0G of lateral Gs.
Iono about you, but I swear I'm more of a scaredy cat when I'm in the passenger seat LOL I swear it's because I can't tell if they saw what I saw and can react to it. On the track I'm not scared cause it's like all clear.

[sillieidiot]

Lol yeah. I'll probably just go the 8/10k route and then swap out springs if I'm not happy. I wish I liked 18s so I could have a better feeling ride but for some reason they look too small for my liking. Just not as aesthetically pleasing as I'd like lol

lol yeah I guess I understand. I had both at one point. I liked that the wheel was bigger and filled out the fenders more, but then you're forced to run low profile cause it will look dumb if you didn't. Then I went with 18s with a meaty tire which also looks great lol

for comparison:

My car on 19s:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93359472@N07/8487864063/

My car on 18s (front fenders are M3, so just look at the rear lol):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v117/sillieidiot/Serenity/Build%20Thread/15064160968_9f255c3fc9_o_zpsbcb042a2.jpg

I couldn't find a side shot of my car on 19s for some reason.

edit:

I found one lol Next to my buddies sedan (which is probably what you have since you reference Rovert's car). He has 18s. From this picture, I swear they look like they are the same size lol

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8488949112_19b6261d12_b.jpg

[ef_michael]

lol yeah I guess I understand. I had both at one point. I liked that the wheel was bigger and filled out the fenders more, but then you're forced to run low profile cause it will look dumb if you didn't. Then I went with 18s with a meaty tire which also looks great lol

for comparison:

My car on 19s:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/93359472@N07/8487864063/

My car on 18s (front fenders are M3, so just look at the rear lol):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v117/sillieidiot/Serenity/Build%20Thread/15064160968_9f255c3fc9_o_zpsbcb042a2.jpg

I couldn't find a side shot of my car on 19s for some reason.

edit:

I found one lol Next to my buddies sedan (which is probably what you have since you reference Rovert's car). He has 18s. From this picture, I swear they look like they are the same size lol

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8488949112_19b6261d12_b.jpg

Wow your car is beautiful on 19s man! Same 19s in the pic with the black sedan? What were you on again? Kw v2s?

[sillieidiot]

Wow your car is beautiful on 19s man! Same 19s in the pic with the black sedan? What were you on again? Kw v2s?

Thanks. I still liked the look, but my current look goes with the 18s way more IMO. Plus the 19s were heavy as hell.

Nah the sedan has 18s. The same ones that are on my car currently lol

Both cars are on the same suspension. AST 4100s with 550F/650R Hyperco springs. The suspension doesn't really matter though, any coilovers you get should be able to adjust to whatever height you want. Although KWs doesn't go as low as a lot of other coils.

[Rovert]

What!?? I'm only like 4 threads from highest flush on rear perches and my front is 1/3 from the bottom. There is so much slamming KW can go that you'd break something on your first drive. LOL

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/fbab2d103c8d9e925327e2313f2dfd20.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/6506aacad7cc6c1b841a509563635a56.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/55998d97d097b830d4e4135054cbded7.jpg

[sillieidiot]

lol Yeah it's cause you don't work on cars that want the slammed look. You can't do that shit with KWs lol It can go low, but not that low. The lowest coils are the asian coilovers like Fortune Auto/BCR lol because the entire shock body rotates to lower the car rather than lowering the collar on the springs. My coils go pretty low too, I have like nearly half my threads on the front. I don't remember how many on the rear, but I'm using longer springs than normal currently so it's probably not much. But I'll be switching to shorter springs soon so it should be a good amount still, but I'm not trying to slam it so who cares.

What's your camber at Trevor? Looks fairly mild from your pictures. It's nice.

[Rovert]

I removed the nut on the front OEM top hats for max OEM camber. And I changed the camber bolts to max in the rear. LOL

[sillieidiot]

lol damn it barely looks like you broke -2 lol my car looks like it has way more negative camber, but i'm only at -2.5F/-1.7R lol It's probably the wheels.

[ef_michael]

What!?? I'm only like 4 threads from highest flush on rear perches and my front is 1/3 from the bottom. There is so much slamming KW can go that you'd break something on your first drive. LOL

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/fbab2d103c8d9e925327e2313f2dfd20.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/6506aacad7cc6c1b841a509563635a56.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160511/55998d97d097b830d4e4135054cbded7.jpg

Man, Trevor; your make me want an M. Very clean! Well done man!

[ef_michael]

Anyone know anything about the ST XTA? Especially in comparison to bc racing with Swift springs?

[sillieidiot]

not really, but i'm pretty sure the ST will have better damping than the BC does. It'll probably ride like KWs (since it's made by KWs anyways) with a linear spring conversion.

[WOLFN8TR]

Dam Trevor posting that pic makes me want to lower my car now!!

[sillieidiot]

Dam Trevor posting that pic makes me want to lower my car now!!

do it, didn't you just acquire a set of coils? lol

[WOLFN8TR]

do it, didn't you just acquire a set of coils? lol

Yep! [emoji106]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/5853ba8a1611ff6f6ca6780f4f2ce77c.jpg

[Rovert]

I just drove my car with 100% stiff front and 50% rear. What an animal. It's a little bit nutty on public streets because it has a little bit of extra bounce but the turn in is sharper, loading the suspension up is quicker and I can really feel what the tires are doing at the limit. I've never brought the car so easily to the limit in my family turns and felt when the LSD was working hard and when I gave the car too much throttle to understeer just slightly. All I did was balance through the throttle and the car just came through like a crazy person set on fire! I'll dial the front stiffness down after a couple days of fun. LOL

[ef_michael]

So I've decided I'm going to go with the 10k Swift spring rates! While I'm having the coils installed, any recommendations as to what to change maintenance wise (bushings etc) while I'm having them installed? Any recommendations performance wise as well?

Michael

[sillieidiot]

So I've decided I'm going to go with the 10k Swift spring rates! While I'm having the coils installed, any recommendations as to what to change maintenance wise (bushings etc) while I'm having them installed? Any recommendations performance wise as well?

Michael

Have you changed your bushings before? fcabs. Everyone here likes the z4m ones. Meyle HD are fine too. You might need shorter endlinks. I'm not sure since all the ones I've installed of those particular brand of coils, the customer already had adjustable endlinks. That's pretty much all you touch when you do suspension. You don't even touch the fcabs really.

Oh I would get the strut reinforcement plates for the fronts. RSMs for the rear too. I think BC has their own. I like the Rogue so you never have to get back into the trunk to take out the shock lol

[az3579]

Have you changed your bushings before? fcabs. Everyone here likes the z4m ones. Meyle HD are fine too.

There is evidence to suggest the contrary. I'd avoid Meyle HD FCABs at all costs.
The Z4M ones are a decent choice, so are OE and OEM replacements (Lemforder).

[ELCID86]

I had Meyle FCABS and had issues with the rubber bits separating after a few months.

[fredo]

Was that Meyle HD FCABS ?

[ELCID86]

Was that Meyle HD FCABS ?

Yes. Do they make "standard definition " ones?

[fredo]

Sounds right. Check this, they compare Meyle regular vs Meyle HD.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2205490-Meyle-OEM-quality-or-China-made-junk-now