TSE3 Finally! Need advice though

[daveuls10]

Hello all,

finally the day has come, my TSE3 arrived today!!! I will be installing on Saturday. I am reading a diy on installing the exhaust but want to know firsthand on anyone's experience with installing it. I've come across a few posts over on e46fanatics where there have been slight issues fitting the clamps up front on the oem headers and causing some leaking. Also wondering if I need to put the entire car on jackstands or can I just do it with the rear up there? It's the full cat-back exhaust i have. Last thing, I will be buying a new impact driver to help with the speed of this job. If I have another helping hand while doing the install, about how long would you say it should take? I plan on starting early saturday morning, say 7am or so. I am going out after work to get anti-seize compound/lubricant and the impact driver. Also if you have any tips or advice I will gladly be open to it!

Thanks for your responses, they are all greatly appreciated.

Dave

[Vas]

Take a look at the front studs/nuts where the headers end and meet the factory exhaust. If they are rusted, you are going to have one fun time removing them.

Usually they are rusted so when you try to remove them, you end up breaking them off and drilling out the studs. Then replace them with SS bolts and nuts.

If they are in really bad shape, you might be better off having someone remove them for you.

[daveuls10]

Take a look at the front studs/nuts where the headers end and meet the factory exhaust. If they are rusted, you are going to have one fun time removing them.

Usually they are rusted so when you try to remove them, you end up breaking them off and drilling out the studs. Then replace them with SS bolts and nuts.

If they are in really bad shape, you might be better off having someone remove them for you.

Thanks, I will take a look when I get home from work

[AggieBlake]

Hello all,

finally the day has come, my TSE3 arrived today!!! I will be installing on Saturday. I am reading a diy on installing the exhaust but want to know firsthand on anyone's experience with installing it. I've come across a few posts over on e46fanatics where there have been slight issues fitting the clamps up front on the oem headers and causing some leaking. Also wondering if I need to put the entire car on jackstands or can I just do it with the rear up there? It's the full cat-back exhaust i have. Last thing, I will be buying a new impact driver to help with the speed of this job. If I have another helping hand while doing the install, about how long would you say it should take? I plan on starting early saturday morning, say 7am or so. I am going out after work to get anti-seize compound/lubricant and the impact driver. Also if you have any tips or advice I will gladly be open to it!

Thanks for your responses, they are all greatly appreciated.

Dave

I just installed a TSE3 catback on my ZHP a week and a half ago! Great choice - they sounds amazing! Here's a few notes for you that really helped me:
1) Spray PB Blaster on the header/exhaust nuts the night before you'll actually work on the car. It pays to let it soak in.
2) Get new gaskets for the header/exhaust (they're very cheap). Don't try to reuse your old ones. They crush slightly when compressed, so the old ones won't have the "give" in them that allows them to seal to the new flanges.
3) The nuts on the header flange will be difficult to remove. Be patient. Don't slam on them with the impact wrench at full torque right from the get-go. You risk breaking them. I ended up using a foot-long wrench and a hammer and just tapping till they started to budge. It took a while, but as you tap, you actually give opportunity for the PB Blaster to work it's way further into the threads and loosen the connection. Note, mine were very corroded (all are - heat cycling does that), and I still got all four off.
4) I don't know if you can do it with only the rear axle in the air. You need to be able to work at the exhaust flange to get the nuts off, and that is near the front-axle line.
5) You don't need anyone else there to get the old exhaust out or new one in. First, get every bolt/nut in the old one loosened up, but don't remove them fully. Once you're sure you can get everything, start at either end removing the nuts/bolts and lower the exhaust onto a cardboard box or something similar. Once it's all down, you just pull it out. The new exhaust goes in easily since it's in 4 sections. Mount one at a time starting at the engine.

Hope this helps. If you run into trouble, post questions and pics and we'll try to help! Good luck and enjoy!

[daveuls10]

I just installed a TSE3 catback on my ZHP a week and a half ago! Great choice - they sounds amazing! Here's a few notes for you that really helped me:
1) Spray PB Blaster on the header/exhaust nuts the night before you'll actually work on the car. It pays to let it soak in.
2) Get new gaskets for the header/exhaust (they're very cheap). Don't try to reuse your old ones. They crush slightly when compressed, so the old ones won't have the "give" in them that allows them to seal to the new flanges.
3) The nuts on the header flange will be difficult to remove. Be patient. Don't slam on them with the impact wrench at full torque right from the get-go. You risk breaking them. I ended up using a foot-long wrench and a hammer and just tapping till they started to budge. It took a while, but as you tap, you actually give opportunity for the PB Blaster to work it's way further into the threads and loosen the connection. Note, mine were very corroded (all are - heat cycling does that), and I still got all four off.
4) I don't know if you can do it with only the rear axle in the air. You need to be able to work at the exhaust flange to get the nuts off, and that is near the front-axle line.
5) You don't need anyone else there to get the old exhaust out or new one in. First, get every bolt/nut in the old one loosened up, but don't remove them fully. Once you're sure you can get everything, start at either end removing the nuts/bolts and lower the exhaust onto a cardboard box or something similar. Once it's all down, you just pull it out. The new exhaust goes in easily since it's in 4 sections. Mount one at a time starting at the engine.

Hope this helps. If you run into trouble, post questions and pics and we'll try to help! Good luck and enjoy!

Wow thanks alot this is extremely helpful! I'm thinking about not getting the impact driver and save some money. Plus can't the vibrations damage the O2 sensors? I will use my breaker bar and hammer. I will be picking up PB tonight along with the new gaskets. I will probably have to go to the stealership for the gaskets since I do not think they'd be here in time for me to install the exhaust on saturday. Your information is greatly appreciated good sir!

[daveuls10]

I also have a mapp fuel torch. Would heating the nuts up help with not shearing the studs? I want to try to avoid this at all costs.

I called pep-boys out of curiosity just to see how much it would run me for them to do the work before I begin the headache of installing myself. I was first told yesterday that they could not install the exhaust until they saw the exhaust and could not give me a price quote until they saw it. So I called again this morning and spoke with someone else. This time they told me they could install it for me. I asked for a quote. I was thinking $60-$100. The guy told me $115 an hour and it would take at least 4 hours. I told him no thanks. So I will be doing this myself, which I was most likely going to from the beginning.

[AggieBlake]

Yeah, I would definitely not have them do it at that rate!! That's ridiculous. It took me an hour total and I'm not a pro. I've never tried heating the nuts to get them loose. Others would have to give advice on that. I really think that liberal application of PB Blaster will work if you give it a lot of time to soak in. Remember that as you put torque on the nut to loosen it, you distort the nut and the threads slightly, opening new paths for the PB to work into. So some mechanics will spray PB, let it soak, try to loosen, then give it more time for the PB to work in (maybe spray again if needed), and then come back to really break it lose. Be patient - it usually works with time.

[CarbonZHP]

PB plaster or WD. Let sit for an hour or so. Then breaker bar to get them started. Then airgun for the rest

[daveuls10]

Yeah, I would definitely not have them do it at that rate!! That's ridiculous. It took me an hour total and I'm not a pro. I've never tried heating the nuts to get them loose. Others would have to give advice on that. I really think that liberal application of PB Blaster will work if you give it a lot of time to soak in. Remember that as you put torque on the nut to loosen it, you distort the nut and the threads slightly, opening new paths for the PB to work into. So some mechanics will spray PB, let it soak, try to loosen, then give it more time for the PB to work in (maybe spray again if needed), and then come back to really break it lose. Be patient - it usually works with time.

Thanks again! I think I'm really just psyching myself out reading horror stories on broken and sheared studs on the exhaust haha. I like the idea of spraying, loosening, spraying again. Maybe I will try a repeated version of this as well but will definitely be very patient!



PB plaster or WD. Let sit for an hour or so. Then breaker bar to get them started. Then airgun for the rest

Thanks! Also on a side note, love your vert in your sig. I read your thread over on e46fanatics a while back and was in awe. Love that diffuser.

[GotZHP]

Daveuls10 , here are a few more tips and ideas.

I agree with others, be careful with the impact gun. When doing exhaust I like to get everything finger tight and work my way to that point slowly. I end up travelling up and down the underside of the car a few times. I prefer this method to tightening bolts all the way, then crawling out from under the car and your tips aren't centered, or you have a gap between sections of pipes.

As to jack stands, I just do this, see the pictures below. I cut up a few 2x8s and made some ramps. Threw some cardboard down so its easier to slide back and forth. There was just enough room to work under there. It took me about two hours to do the exhaust below, but I was taking pictures for a DIY write up. If you are are new to mechanics, I'd plan 1 to 3 hrs depending on how well the install goes.

Lastly, wipe down your exhaust after it is installed, so finger prints don't get burnt in as the exhaust begins to heat cycle.

[daveuls10]

Daveuls10 , here are a few more tips and ideas.

I agree with others, be careful with the impact gun. When doing exhaust I like to get everything finger tight and work my way to that point slowly. I end up travelling up and down the underside of the car a few times. I prefer this method to tightening bolts all the way, then crawling out from under the car and your tips aren't centered, or you have a gap between sections of pipes.

As to jack stands, I just do this, see the pictures below. I cut up a few 2x8s and made some ramps. Threw some cardboard down so its easier to slide back and forth. There was just enough room to work under there. It took me about two hours to do the exhaust below, but I was taking pictures for a DIY write up. If you are are new to mechanics, I'd plan 1 to 3 hrs depending on how well the install goes.

Lastly, wipe down your exhaust after it is installed, so finger prints don't get burnt in as the exhaust begins to heat cycle.

great ideas and excellent advice. I love the ideas with the wood 2x8's. I have 2x10's I have nailed together for makeshift ramps for when I do oil changes, as I am always nervous putting the car up on jackstands. However, I have some clearance issues with the ramps. I sometimes feel as though they aren't high enough to fit under the car? I have 4 planks instead of 3 nailed on top of each other like the ones in the picture and I feel it's a tight fit.

[GotZHP]

great ideas and excellent advice. I love the ideas with the wood 2x8's. I have 2x10's I have nailed together for makeshift ramps for when I do oil changes, as I am always nervous putting the car up on jackstands. However, I have some clearance issues with the ramps. I sometimes feel as though they aren't high enough to fit under the car? I have 4 planks instead of 3 nailed on top of each other like the ones in the picture and I feel it's a tight fit.

It was a tight squeeze with that BRZ too. Pictures don't do my makeshift ramps justice. I cut the angles on a huge band saw, so the angle had a run of almost 6 inches from where the plank started and were the cut stopped.

Single exit exhaust can be easier to put in, generally. Dual exit exhaust, depending on how the piping is, can be a PITA to get just right so they look centered.

Post of some videos once the exhaust is on. It is one I am considering when time comes.

[Sockethead]

When I did mine I just jacked the ass end way up. It gave me plenty of clearance for the whole job.
If you feel like the the flange nuts aren't going to break free, heat them up cherry red and they should come right off.
If you break one of the studs, no worries, just use a big C clamp and a socket to press it out. The dealer will have the proper copper nuts, studs and such...

[johnrando]

What they said. Enjoy it!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[daveuls10]

Update: WOW! Sounds soooooo good!! Amazing actually! A little information on the install. I broke 2 studs and got 2 off clean. Started around 7:30 am and with the two trips to home depot, and installing the tse3, total time was about 4 hours. Before attempting to drill the studs out, I heated the (f)rank out of the studs and beat them out. Surprisingly they came out fairly easily. I'm thinking the pb helped alot. I was very liberal work it. But wow I had to force myself out of the car to write this review. Used half a tank just driving around. I will get a video up soon!

[GotZHP]

Post that video!

Do drive bys, in car, and just some neutral revs :begging:thumbup

[daveuls10]

12 second Teaser :


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tERWCwt07jw


Will get in car and drive by's tomorrow!
It is :ineedabeer time haha

[Aeternalis]

12 second Teaser :


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tERWCwt07jw


Will get in car and drive by's tomorrow!
It is :ineedabeer time haha
Amazing. I can't wait to get this exhaust.

[daveuls10]

Amazing. I can't wait to get this exhaust.

Do it. Do it now.

[Aeternalis]

Do it. Do it now.
I wish! I have the VANOS, DISA valve, full suspension, cooling system, CCV system, shifter, and steering wheel going in in two weeks.. Lol my poor wallet.

[Sockethead]

The beauty of this exhaust is that it's quiet and loud when you want it to be... It's a total win

[GotZHP]

:drool:drool:drool:drool:drool

[daveuls10]

The beauty of this exhaust is that it's quiet and loud when you want it to be... It's a total win

I noticed. Saw a cop speed gunning people while I was driving in 3rd with some loudish exhaust, threw it into 4th. Sounded just as quiet as the OEM version. And while I'm driving through my girlfriend's development (the Homeowners Association is crazy here), threw it into 3rd, quiet as a mouse. And on the highway, no drone (had straight pipes on my e30 and the drone made me want to hypothetically jump off a bridge at times), Amazing! I'm loving this exhaust so much. In the end, I was thinking this or the Eisenmann race but considering the muffler alone was almost $1200, I'm so happy I went with this exhaust after much research.

Also, I want to thank everyone for their awesome support and information on installing this system. Made my life so much easier, even though I sheared two bolts.

[daveuls10]

:drool:drool:drool:drool:drool

GET ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT

[daveuls10]

I wish! I have the VANOS, DISA valve, full suspension, cooling system, CCV system, shifter, and steering wheel going in in two weeks.. Lol my poor wallet.

Ahh I see, You'll be busy though which is nice. I usually have this period of time when I'm working on my car, cursing up and down because it didn't go as planned and wishing there was nothing left to do but then when it's done the satisfaction of being able to work and fix your own car is overwhelming. Then I want to do it again haha.

CCV should be next on my list for preventative maintenance reasons. And I have been putting off a steering wheel for forever.

[GotZHP]

GET ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT

Will be but maintenance first. and my list is quiet lengthy still... Ill probably get an exhaust before I got after the suspension though (BIG plans in the works there). I like sounding good riding around town. What doesnt sound good is the vacuum leak and squeaky idler pulley lol.

[AggieBlake]

Daveuls10 , here are a few more tips and ideas.

I agree with others, be careful with the impact gun. When doing exhaust I like to get everything finger tight and work my way to that point slowly. I end up travelling up and down the underside of the car a few times. I prefer this method to tightening bolts all the way, then crawling out from under the car and your tips aren't centered, or you have a gap between sections of pipes.

As to jack stands, I just do this, see the pictures below. I cut up a few 2x8s and made some ramps. Threw some cardboard down so its easier to slide back and forth. There was just enough room to work under there. It took me about two hours to do the exhaust below, but I was taking pictures for a DIY write up. If you are are new to mechanics, I'd plan 1 to 3 hrs depending on how well the install goes.

Lastly, wipe down your exhaust after it is installed, so finger prints don't get burnt in as the exhaust begins to heat cycle.

GotZHP... I saw the picks of your BRZ on ramps and it made me a little nervous. Are you just using the parking brake to hold it up there? Parking brakes can fail you, and if I'm seeing these ramps correctly, the car would be inclined to roll easily and come down on top of you. Most ramps will have built in chocks (bumps in front and behind the tire) that serve as a safety against the car rolling off the ramps. You could easily add your own to your ramps by adding 1x2 strips that sit in front and behind the tire (so you'd drive over the rearward ones on your way up the ramp). Anyways, this just might be my OCD... be safe.

[GotZHP]

GotZHP... I saw the picks of your BRZ on ramps and it made me a little nervous. Are you just using the parking brake to hold it up there? Parking brakes can fail you, and if I'm seeing these ramps correctly, the car would be inclined to roll easily and come down on top of you. Most ramps will have built in chocks (bumps in front and behind the tire) that serve as a safety against the car rolling off the ramps. You could easily add your own to your ramps by adding 1x2 strips that sit in front and behind the tire (so you'd drive over the rearward ones on your way up the ramp). Anyways, this just might be my OCD... be safe.

I have 2x4 blocks i screw in on both sides of the tires with 3" GRk screws. Since have bought new jack stands and jack