William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 84,16x

Recently took two separate drives to the coast in three days and the car ran great as always. I'm busy studying for a licensing exam but have decided I should use the slight increase in free time while being off rotations to do a little maintenance/care for the car. I do not plan to do even a fraction of all of these things, but wanted to try and get it out on "paper" so to speak for my own reference. Questions I have for the forum are highlighted in red

Maintenance:

Brake fluid: I've been flushing on an annual basis with ATE SL6-1. Is there any prescribed mileage that people replace brake fluid?
Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Is everyone still using Redline MTL or have they moved onto other brands/weights?
Differential fluid: same mileage consideration as transmission above, but using Redline 75W90.
Power steering fluid: My lower pressure hose is leaking, so I plan to have that replaced and fluid flushed at the same time using Redline D4 ATF. Also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-kit-basic-e46-e46pskit1) Can someone confirm the power steering feed line part number for our cars is 32416774215?
Replacement of idler and tensioner pulleys: At least one is dying already even though they were replaced 35k miles ago. Cheap to replace.
Replace windshield cowl: 51718232894. She's cracked.
Rebuild DISA: Already have the kit, just need to sit down and do it.
Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Any specific brands/suggestions for a Viton version?
Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23869-DIY-Cheap-Rear-Quarter-Panel-Window-Stripping-Replacement)
Differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked and should be replaced. I don't want to use poly for NVH reasons, but are there good rubber alternatives to original bushings or should I just stick with originals, and are the part numbers 33176770788 (front) and 33176751808 (rear)?
Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=sContact&partnum=28MR7SCON&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_))
Replace/renew fading side markers
Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Assembly-fit-BMW-E46-323-330-325-64118372797/271655775554)

Modifications

Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and purchase/install correct bushings (31352229756). I was planning to pick up a larger 330Cic (33556751267) or Xi rear sway bar w/ correct bushings (33551096669) as well, but ZHPizza suggested just installing the front bar. Do y'all agree with ZHPizza's wild suggestions? I have never replaced the sway bar end links either (31356780847), should that be replaced as well?
Install ZHPizza's larger throttle body: Will also replace the upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759) and clean the ICV at the same time and reset accelerator adaptions
Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Trailing-Arm-Bushings/E46-E36-3-Series-and-Z4-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html): I assume this requires an alignment afterwards, correct?
Reset my Xtrons PB7646BAP to factory settings to see if that'll improve speed. Otherwise consider selling and getting an Avin Avant 4.
Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10199-DIY-Cube-Trim-Repair-Color-Change-(Black-Silver-and-Red)-doityourself/page2) and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11178-E46-vert-quot-all-windows-quot-switch-retrofit-into-sedan-doityourself). Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
Purchase/install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
Purchase/install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit
Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23803-M56-Valve-Cover-Swap)
Purchase/install the euro tray (51167038323)
Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21379-ZHP-NA-Project-More-Power&p=594122#post594122)

[t.er]

Brakes: No mileage, I just do it once or twice a year... but I also track, so it's outside the norm.
Trans fluid: I still use MTL and am fine with it. But I also don't winter my car
OFHG: I use the BavAuto (now sold on ECS Tuning)
Diff bushings: Yeah just use original. FWIW my ECS poly bushings didn't add any NVH but fitment was horrible, so don't get those
Sway bar: Yeah, I'd say just only do the front bar. With the MacPherson strut, you can't make the assumption that larger front bar = more understeer. Because you are also reducing the camber loss, which means more grip. It's hard to say what has more of an effect, but generally with these cars just running a larger front bar will be fine
Endlinks: If you have play in the joints then replace, if not then it's fine to reuse
RTABs: Yes you need an alignment. The RTAB brackets set toe

[BMWCurves]

You are a mensch, my G.

[san]

Brake Fluid: you can do once a year but I think it’s not necessary. I once changed brake fluid after 3 years of use and didn’t notice any difference. I wouldn’t recommend changing them out only once every 3 years but once every year seems like overkill to me for a street driven car.

Tran fluid: after using redline MTL,l twice, I think I’ll try getting bmw fluid from the dealership. The MTL is good for about 10000 miles or so, then it’s not very good.

Diff fluid: been using redline stuff and don’t have issues

Diff bushing: I would stick to OEM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fredo]

Brake fluid: I replace every 2 years regardless of the miles. I heard this time frame is recommended because moisture affects the fluid on the long term. Then the miles are not really important.

Power steering: my mechanic replaced these 2 hoses on my sedan some years ago - 32416796390 and 32416750155.

Differential bushings: I didn't replace yet. But I'm going with OEM when the time arrives.

[cakM3]

Brake Fluid: I try to change mine out every two years regardless of how many times I drive my cars... brake fluid absorbs moisture and in time would cause caliper pistons to seize in place so it is wise to change it out every two years.

Suspension: do all your suspension upgrades and maintenance then plan on getting a full alignment done then you will be set.

Differential bushings: Stick with OEM (+1 with regards to San's comment)

[sillieidiot]

brake fluid: every 2 years. doesn't matter miles.
transmission fluid: i'm still using Redline MTL
power steering: That's the part number that shows on realoem for my car.
OFHG: the viton from BavAuto (ECS sells it)
diff bushings: OE
sway bar: yes large front bar is fine. when I did track/auto-x. I felt like large front bar with no rear bar at all was the way to go sometimes.
endlinks: yeah just replace them too. it's probably bad by now if it's never been replaced. or maybe you'll break it while you're taking them off cause they old.
rtab: yes. do all the suspension stuff at the same time and align once.

[BMWCurves]

Great, thank you all kindly! It seems the consensus is as follows:

Brake fluid: Every two years. I'll update accordingly.
Transmission fluid: Sounds like people haven't been satisfied with Redline so I'll try either genuine BMW or this Ravenol 75W-80 stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK.MCb3YQWKN0) per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22594-Transmission-Fluid-and-Clutch-Change)
OFHG: I'll purchase the BavAuto Viton from ECS here (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-high-performance-dupont-viton-synthetic-rubber-bavarian-autosport/11421719855v~bav/), since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS
Differential bushings: I'll purchase OEM - 33176770788 (front) and 33176751808 (rear)
Sway bar: Sounds like the M3 front bar (31352229755) is sufficient. I'll purchase up the bushings as well (33551096669)
End links: I'll purchase them (31356780847) and replace them with the M3 sway bar. Question: Any preferred brand?
Power steering hoses: @fredo, I don't think those are the ones that are leaking but I'll ask my mechanic next time I see him. You listed (for my own reference) the power steering return hose (32416796390) and suction hose (32416750155)
RTAB: I'll install the RTABs and after everything else is done, get an alignment.

[Galapolis]

I had BMW trans fluid for about 50k miles, then replaced it with Redline MTL. HUGE MISTAKE. The BMW fluid was still brand spanking new after 50k miles. Not a hint of discoloration or particles. Literally could not be distinguished from the new MTL I had.

Also you might find that you won't need a LSD anymore after doing spherical RTABs. The amount of grip they add is insane.

[t.er]

I had BMW trans fluid for about 50k miles, then replaced it with Redline MTL. HUGE MISTAKE. The BMW fluid was still brand spanking new after 50k miles. Not a hint of discoloration or particles. Literally could not be distinguished from the new MTL I had.

Also you might find that you won't need a LSD anymore after doing spherical RTABs. The amount of grip they add is insane.

Sounds like I should swap to BMW fluid then, so long as FCP stocks it. I didn't even put that much mileage on mine (maybe 20k km?) and it was dark when I drained it.

Sphericals are definitely the RTA to go with, but I found I was still spinning up the inside rear wheel on track. They're for sure better than OE or poly, but I think I just had too high of expectations given the reviews on this forum

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

Sounds like I should swap to BMW fluid then, so long as FCP stocks it. I didn't even put that much mileage on mine (maybe 20k km?) and it was dark when I drained it.

Sphericals are definitely the RTA to go with, but I found I was still spinning up the inside rear wheel on track. They're for sure better than OE or poly, but I think I just had too high of expectations given the reviews on this forum

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Yep every single transmission fluid change I watched always contained dark fluid and a lot of shavings. At first I was confused, but then I just felt dumb for replacing mine.

[cakM3]

Great discussion regarding maintenance going on here :thumbsup

[ZHPizza]

Looks like everything was covered but I'll chime in and say I've been using the Ravenol in my transmission too after going down the rabbit hole on m3forum. Feels good2me.

[BMWCurves]

Thank you kindly everyone! I'm updating the list here for my own reference.
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids

Brake fluid: Flush every two years (previously every one year). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Currently Redline MTL, but will try Ravenol 75W-80 stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK.MCb3YQWKN0) per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22594-Transmission-Fluid-and-Clutch-Change).
Differential fluid: At 30k miles, should flush sometime soon. Continue to use Redline 75W90.
Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*

Mechanical items

Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-kit-basic-e46-e46pskit1)*
Replace idler (11287841228) and tensioner pulleys (11281748131): At least one is dying already even though they were replaced 35k miles ago.
Rebuild DISA: Use the German Auto Solutions rebuild kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/bmw-m54-30l-disa-repair-and-upgrade-kit/).
Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Will purchase recommended BavAuto Viton version from ECS here (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-high-performance-dupont-viton-synthetic-rubber-bavarian-autosport/11421719855v~bav/), since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS.
Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
Install upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Perform when installing ZHPizza's larger throttle body**
Clean the ICV while replacing intake boots above
Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Assembly-fit-BMW-E46-323-330-325-64118372797/271655775554)
Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9412-DIY-replacing-guibo-(flexdisc)-and-or-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-(CSB)-doityourself).

Exterior

Replace windshield cowl (51718232894): Cracked and weathered.
Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23869-DIY-Cheap-Rear-Quarter-Panel-Window-Stripping-Replacement)
Replace or renew fading side markers

Miscellaneous

Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=sContact&partnum=28MR7SCON&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_))
Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***

Modifications
Suspension

Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and install correct bushings (31352229756).
Install front sway bar end links (31356780847)
Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Trailing-Arm-Bushings/E46-E36-3-Series-and-Z4-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html).***
Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)

Engine/drivetrain:

Install ZHPizza's larger throttle body.**. Details here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=601123#post601123). Additional associated parts (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=601331#post601331)
Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23803-M56-Valve-Cover-Swap) or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/german-auto-solutions-m54-ccv-replacement-kit/)
Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21379-ZHP-NA-Project-More-Power&p=594122#post594122)

Electronics

Reset Xtrons PB7646BAP to factory settings to see if that'll improve speed. Otherwise consider selling and getting an Avin Avant 4.
Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11178-E46-vert-quot-all-windows-quot-switch-retrofit-into-sedan-doityourself). Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit

Interior

Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10199-DIY-Cube-Trim-Repair-Color-Change-(Black-Silver-and-Red)-doityourself/page2) and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
Install the euro tray (51167038323)

Exterior

Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
Install used OEM Shark Fin

[sillieidiot]

I clicked on the rear windows diy only to find out it was the one that I reposted lol :facepalm

[BMWCurves]

I clicked on the rear windows diy only to find out it was the one that I reposted lol :facepalm

Haha, I've been there.

These are the two other threads I found tucked away in my notes somewhere:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/183-side-finisher-rubber-replacement-and-rear-side-window-trim-replacement
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18603-Repairing-rear-quarter-window-rubber-(is-this-trim-or-gutter-)-06-Coupe&p=496871#post496871

[ZHPizza]

* Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide. Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)

Edit: nvm saw that I posted in that thread

[BMWCurves]

Edit: nvm saw that I posted in that thread

My guy, what did you say? Can't just leave me hanging.

[sillieidiot]

My guy, what did you say? Can't just leave me hanging.

He said he always wanted to do it lol

[ZHPizza]

My guy, what did you say? Can't just leave me hanging.I was going to say it didn't work for me, but all I did was hook up a vert window switch, change the coding in pasoft, and hope all the wiring was there for it to work. It was not so I abandoned it. Not worth any more effort than that to me.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 84,268 miles

Did a factory reset on my Xtrons head unit. So far the head unit seems to be much faster and responsive than prior to updating the software. Time will tell if it sticks.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 85,334 miles

Did a little maintenance today.

Pulleys
Replaced the idler pulley (11287841228) and the tensioner pulley (11281748131), both INA branded. The AC pulley may be due at some point.

Windshield wipers
Replaced the windshield wipers using BMW (61610037009). Will warranty with FCP

Replaced the windshield cowl
It was cracked and old. Easy enough to replace, but was thankful to have this windshield wiper puller from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PY8785/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) purchased previously to pull off the windshield wiper arms. Replaced with BMW (51718232894).

I am hoping to do the G.A.S. DISA rebuild kit tomorrow, along with replacing the upper and lower intake boots, cleaning the ICV, and installing my ZHPizza Labs' high flow throttle body. Maybe rotate the tires as well, as they're due.

[cakM3]

Very nice Will! :thumbsup

[fredo]

Well done, Curves. And congrats on your post # 10,000. :roundel

[BMWCurves]

Very nice Will! :thumbsup

Thanks!


Well done, Curves. And congrats on your post # 10,000. :roundel

Thank you kindly! A good 50% of those must have been during my craze of posting all the ZHPs I could find on Craigslist and AutoTrader a few years ago.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 85,343

DISA Rebuild
I ordered a German Auto Solutions (G.A.S.) DISA rebuild kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/bmw-m54-30l-disa-repair-and-upgrade-kit/) a long time ago, and finally got around to installing it yesterday. I used their installation instructions (https://germanautosolutions.com/support/bmw-product-installation-instructions/instructions-m54-disa-repair-and-upgrade-kit/) as well as the video below as references. My DISA was in pretty good condition: it has good vacuum per their test, the bell crank lever didn't show much in the way of wear, and it was very hard to get out the steel guide pin. I did note that a decent amount of rubber gasket was missing from the u-shaped portion on one side where the edge of the flapper valve meets the DISA housing. Hopefully that is not a big issue. Downside is I didn't figure in the 12 hour recommended time to let the Locktite to cure so I had to leave it at my folks' place overnight and reassemble it today.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SApm2qKnmew

Installed ZHPizza's Custom 72mm Throttle Body
Also purchased a while ago, but felt it was time to install it. While in there I also replaced the throttle body gasket (13547504729, Elring). Per ZHPizza's quik mafs (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23174-WTB-Dinan-Throttle-Body-E46-330i&p=597955#post597955), it is 13% larger area than the stock throttle body for the zoom zoom. Time will tell how what kind of noticeable power gains and/or vacuum leaks it produces. I will say I hope it's all hunky dory because I do *not* want to have to access the throttle body again anytime soon (see: tight work space and a dropped hose clamp that had to be retrieved from the recesses of the engine bay by pulling out the belly pan :facepalm). I referenced this Pelican Parts guide (https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/20-FUEL-Throttle_Housing_Replacement/20-FUEL-Throttle_Housing_Replacement.htm) for access, as well as YouTube videos like the one below:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAxr4PNMyA8

Replaced the upper and lower intake boots
While I was in there for the throttle body replacement, I figured it was worth replacing the upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759) (both Rein). Mine were in good shape, but I think it worth replacing 16 year old rubber on these cars.

Cleaned idle control valve (ICV)
Since I was already in the area of the ICV by way of accessing the throttle body for upgrade, I decided to go ahead and clean my ICV. I referenced the second video above as well as the one below as a procedure guide. My ICV was in good shape when removed, and easily made the clackity sound of a healthy ICV when you shake it back and forth. But I hit it with some Gumout carb/choke/parts cleaner (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/gumout/gumout-16-ounce-carburetor-choke-and-parts-cleaner/gum0/800002230?q=gumout&pos=6) in both ends, wiped it with a paper towel, sprayed some more in, let it dry, and did one more round. Nice and clean now.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVPV-XnmJyk

Serviced GruppeM Ram Air Intake
My used GruppeM (https://www.gruppemusa.com/bmw-330i-2001-2005-e46-3.0l-carbon-fiber-ram-air-intake-system/p2423) was last serviced 12/2016, and had been through two summers of forest fires and crap air quality so it was due for a service. It was very grimy upon removal, but I still had my K&N filter kit (part no. 99-5000) from the first time I recharged it so I sprayed it with the cleaner on both sides, let it sit for 10 minutes, rinsed with low pressure cold water from the inside out, and repeated once more whereby the water ran clean. It is currently drying and I will oil it once I am certain it is dry. Unfortunately, the gasket that sits between the carbon fiber shield and the intake filter disintegrated, so I am working on sourcing either a factory or alternative part, depending on what GruppeM has to say.

EDIT: This is what GruppeM had to say:

Unfortunately this cannot be purchased separately. You would have to purchase a new filter or figure out a way to repair it using some sort of gasket material from your local hardware store.

Installed BMW Performance Intake
Per the pending recharge/service of my GruppeM intake, I'll be using my BMW Performance intake as a substitute. I haven't driven with it for some time, and it will confound my butt dyno and review of the big bore throttle body, but c'est la vie.

Side note: I finally decided to read what the exact distances different tones from my parking distance control (PDC) signify, and it seems like it is activated by objects within five feet, and hard tones at twelve inches, which fits with my experience.

https://i.imgur.com/4I4Sn93.jpg

[cakM3]

Will, you can a replacement Gruppe M air filter from ECS Tuning but I don't know if it comes with that gasket you're taking about...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51666038119_88239e42c9_c.jpg

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-gruppe-m-parts/replacement-filter-for-intake-kit/rf-3301a~grm/

[BMWCurves]

Thanks! Yeah, the gasket I am now led to believe is built in/glued to the flange of the filter. So options are to find another gasket, or buy a new filter. I recall San finding a K&N filter a long time ago that was less expensive than the GruppeM one, but I'm not sure of the part number.

EDIT: Here is San's thread. (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17419-Found-Gruppe-M-replacement-filter-Should-I-buy-it) At the time five years ago, prices were still in the neighborhood of $200, so with inflation, prices are improving! Just kidding, the link San found is now $245, but with the link you posted to ECS, it's only $180. Also, there's a link at the end of that thread to nengun.com (https://www.nengun.com/gruppe-m/kn-replacement-filter), and the RF-3301A filter for the E46 M54B30 Ram Air intake is $125.25 currently. I have no idea if nengun is a reputable seller, but they are from...Japan. Depending on how I feel...

https://i.imgur.com/dc89a9u.png

[san]

Thanks! Yeah, the gasket I am now led to believe is built in/glued to the flange of the filter. So options are to find another gasket, or buy a new filter. I recall San finding a K&N filter a long time ago that was less expensive than the GruppeM one, but I'm not sure of the part number.

EDIT: Here is San's thread. (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?17419-Found-Gruppe-M-replacement-filter-Should-I-buy-it) At the time five years ago, prices were still in the neighborhood of $200, so with inflation, prices are improving! Just kidding, the link San found is now $245, but with the link you posted to ECS, it's only $180. Also, there's a link at the end of that thread to nengun.com (https://www.nengun.com/gruppe-m/kn-replacement-filter), and the RF-3301A filter for the E46 M54B30 Ram Air intake is $125.25 currently. I have no idea if nengun is a reputable seller, but they are from...Japan. Depending on how I feel...

https://i.imgur.com/dc89a9u.png

I don’t think it’s glued or built in to the filter. At least it wasn’t on mine when I got the replacement filter.
Also the $245 price is AUD not USD, so with conversion it’s about what ECS is asking, plus shipping extra.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

I don’t think it’s glued or built in to the filter. At least it wasn’t on mine when I got the replacement filter.
Also the $245 price is AUD not USD, so with conversion it’s about what ECS is asking, plus shipping extra.


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Two important points to consider! Thanks, San. I'll be perusing Home Depot/Amazon/etc to see if I can find something first, like this pressure cooker gasket (https://www.amazon.com/Prestige-Sealing-3-5-Liter-Pressure-Cookers/dp/B00CBGP6CI/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B00CBGP6CI&psc=1)

[Will]

Awesome work! And thorough documentation, too.

What's the diameter / thickness of the gasket you're trying to replace? Wondering if something like a foam weatherstrip seal from Home Depot would work (link (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977))

If you need an extra pair of hands for work on your car PM me, I'm in the PDX (Hillsboro area) for a while (open ended trip).

[Will]

deleted.

[BMWCurves]

Update after a few spirited drives with the G.A.S. DISA rebuild, new intake boots, and large bore throttle body:
I do notice a moderate improvement in the 4k power dip that I was starting to notice recently, but otherwise my butt dyno isn't feeling much in terms of a bump in power or throttle response. Per ZHPizza's FS Thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23174-WTB-Dinan-Throttle-Body-E46-330i&p=600942#post600942), ZHP_Brandon felt:


On the highway, 4th & 5th seem to have a slight blip more in throttle response but I guess that is to be expected. Passing someone didn't feel like a chore in the last two gears like it once was. So my consensus is this, it feels to me that the car breathes more freely climbing through the RPMs. 3rd gear seems to have gained the largest change, don't ask me why. 3rd gear would normally be a spry sprint into the 5500-7k range but now it feels much more severe, almost like it wants to climb faster? Idk
Source: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23174-WTB-Dinan-Throttle-Body-E46-330i&p=600954#post600954

Overall, not upset by it since I didn't expect much, and more just pleased knowing I have a clean-ish ICV, new boots, a rebuilt DISA, and maybe some power/throttle response improvement :)

EDIT: Forgot to add - I miss my GruppeM intake. BMW Performance is night, but it lacks the growl of the GruppeM.


Awesome work! And thorough documentation, too.

What's the diameter / thickness of the gasket you're trying to replace? Wondering if something like a foam weatherstrip seal from Home Depot would work (link (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R734H/100047977))

If you need an extra pair of hands for work on your car PM me, I'm in the PDX (Hillsboro area) for a while (open ended trip).

Sorry for the late response, I somehow missed it.

Honestly, that weatherstrip seal isn't a bad option. My only real concern is whether it could handle engine compartment temperatures and not melt/fail in some manner.

Also, thank you for your offer to help, I appreciate it! I'll let you know if anything comes up. For the moment I'm okay.

[johnrando]

Glad that worked out

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

On my most recent drive out to Tillamook, the coolant temperature gauge kept moving to 3/4 under load. This was a new symptom for me; for some time I have had a low coolant light that would turn on intermittently, but was staying lit for longer and longer periods recently.

Every time I have checked the expansion tank, it needed maybe a 2-3 oz of fluid, but when I pulled over on this drive because of this new phenomenon, I found it was very very low, and I poured in maybe ⅓ of a gallon of distilled water to top it up while the engine was running. I have a leak somewhere, but not sure where, so I'll add that to the list of fluid-leak/replace items I need to perform/chase.

[johnrando]

GL on that.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[san]

When I had a slow leak it turned out to be the thermostat gasket and I could only see it after driving the car for a bit and once it warmed up which makes sense for a thermostat. Good Luck!


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[BMWCurves]

When I had a slow leak it turned out to be the thermostat gasket and I could only see it after driving the car for a bit and once it warmed up which makes sense for a thermostat. Good Luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even though it has about 35k miles on it, I'm tempted to do a full coolant system refresh to just have peace of mind. Unfortunately, I previously purchased the parts from Turner so no free replacement. But if I don't replace the radiator, parts aren't overly expensive.

[BMWCurves]

Not really a part of my project, but my sister has been worried that her car needs to be run for fear of the battery completely draining, etc. I'm on rotation out at the Oregon Coast and so I'm more than happy to help her out, preserve some miles on my car, and get some seat time in a mostly stock ZHP to remind myself what a ZHP normally feels like. Some notable items about my sister's ZHP:


It is a late 2005 6MT in Sparkling Graphite Metallic (SGM) over Black leather interior with Black Cube trim. I really love SGM as a color, and it being a late model it has the stock leather perforated wheel and leather shift and parking brake boots.
Noise: The car has Dinan intake, throttle body, exhaust, and Stage II software installed. It sounds throatier and more aggressive under load than my father's all-stock ZHP, but not nearly as loud as my car that has a GruppeM intake, Custom ZHPizza Labs™ throttle body, and UUC TSE3 exhaust combination. I really like the aggressive sound of my setup, but I could see the Dinan setup for someone that wants something more than the stock sound. I do at times envy the quieter highway noise level from the Dinan setup over mine.
Ride: My sister's car is rocking the stock Style 135 wheels which I think explains the heavier, "thuddier" ride I've been experiencing over the same uneven road from Portland to the Coast. Granted, her suspension is stock, and at 98k miles, is likely overdue for a replacement. But that said, I think more of it comes down to the wheels as I don't remember my stock suspension having this characteristic struggle to damp dips and bumps at highway speeds.
Tramlining: My car has some tramlining, not terribly so, but compared to my sister's car it is noticeable. That is likely down to wider section tires up front (245s vs stock 225s) and more aggressive alignment settings in my car. I love how my car turns in when pushing it, but it does make for needing more concentration to keep the car going in a straight line on highway commutes.
Steering feel: The steering feel is different between the two, but having not driven them back to back immediately, I cannot put my finger on it. Somehow my sister's might feel heavier? Not sure.
Shifter: My car has the UUC short shift kit, which I quite like. It is quite notchy at times, but I like that feeling and I like that the height of the shifter itself is about stock height. My sister's car has some aftermarket short shift kit, but I think it achieves some of it's reduced shift distance through shortening the shifter height, which I don't like as much. The shifts themselves are less notchy/more soft and a little more forgiving, which has been pleasant to experience.
Shift pedal: I have the clutch delay valve (CDV) removed and have a UUC part installed in its place that effectively does the same thing as removing the CDV. I believe my sister's has the valve in place as the shift pedal has the characteristic mushy feel mine had before the CDV removal.
Seats: I installed the seats from an M3 and I have noticed that the cushioning is actually less than the stock seats. I wish they had a little more cushion than the stock seats, but my sister's don't have lumbar support and I have felt that in my back on the two hour drive I have to take. Additionally, the M3 seats sit a bit lower than the stock seats which I need for my tall torso. Also, the M3 seats provide far more side bolstering than the stock sport seats.

Otherwise, things feel similar between the two (as they should). I miss my autodimming mirror and aftermarket radio headunit, but otherwise, it feels like home.

[san]

Not really a part of my project, but my sister has been worried that her car needs to be run for fear of the battery completely draining, etc. I'm on rotation out at the Oregon Coast and so I'm more than happy to help her out, preserve some miles on my car, and get some seat time in a mostly stock ZHP to remind myself what a ZHP normally feels like. Some notable items about my sister's ZHP:


It is a late 2005 6MT in Sparkling Graphite Metallic (SGM) over Black leather interior with Black Cube trim. I really love SGM as a color, and it being a late model it has the stock leather perforated wheel and leather shift and parking brake boots.
Noise: The car has Dinan intake, throttle body, exhaust, and Stage II software installed. It sounds throatier and more aggressive under load than my father's all-stock ZHP, but not nearly as loud as my car that has a GruppeM intake, Custom ZHPizza Labs[emoji769] throttle body, and UUC TSE3 exhaust combination. I really like the aggressive sound of my setup, but I could see the Dinan setup for someone that wants something more than the stock sound. I do at times envy the quieter highway noise level from the Dinan setup over mine.
Ride: My sister's car is rocking the stock Style 135 wheels which I think explains the heavier, "thuddier" ride I've been experiencing over the same uneven road from Portland to the Coast. Granted, her suspension is stock, and at 98k miles, is likely overdue for a replacement. But that said, I think more of it comes down to the wheels as I don't remember my stock suspension having this characteristic struggle to damp dips and bumps at highway speeds.
Tramlining: My car has some tramlining, not terribly so, but compared to my sister's car it is noticeable. That is likely down to wider section tires up front (245s vs stock 225s) and more aggressive alignment settings in my car. I love how my car turns in when pushing it, but it does make for needing more concentration to keep the car going in a straight line on highway commutes.
Steering feel: The steering feel is different between the two, but having not driven them back to back immediately, I cannot put my finger on it. Somehow my sister's might feel heavier? Not sure.
Shifter: My car has the UUC short shift kit, which I quite like. It is quite notchy at times, but I like that feeling and I like that the height of the shifter itself is about stock height. My sister's car has some aftermarket short shift kit, but I think it achieves some of it's reduced shift distance through shortening the shifter height, which I don't like as much. The shifts themselves are less notchy/more soft and a little more forgiving, which has been pleasant to experience.
Shift pedal: I have the clutch delay valve (CDV) removed and have a UUC part installed in its place that effectively does the same thing as removing the CDV. I believe my sister's has the valve in place as the shift pedal has the characteristic mushy feel mine had before the CDV removal.
Seats: I installed the seats from an M3 and I have noticed that the cushioning is actually less than the stock seats. I wish they had a little more cushion than the stock seats, but my sister's don't have lumbar support and I have felt that in my back on the two hour drive I have to take. Additionally, the M3 seats sit a bit lower than the stock seats which I need for my tall torso. Also, the M3 seats provide far more side bolstering than the stock sport seats.

Otherwise, things feel similar between the two (as they should). I miss my autodimming mirror and aftermarket radio headunit, but otherwise, it feels like home.

The heavier steering feel on your sister’s car compared to yours is I’m sure down to the 135 wheels. I remember noticing the difference when I swapped the 135s for arc 8s on my car.


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[AM1GO]

Noise: The car has Dinan intake, throttle body, exhaust, and Stage II software installed. It sounds throatier and more aggressive under load than my father's all-stock ZHP, but not nearly as loud as my car that has a GruppeM intake, Custom ZHPizza Labs[emoji769] throttle body, and UUC TSE3 exhaust combination. I really like the aggressive sound of my setup, but I could see the Dinan setup for someone that wants something more than the stock sound. I do at times envy the quieter highway noise level from the Dinan setup over mine.

Otherwise, things feel similar between the two (as they should). I miss my autodimming mirror and aftermarket radio headunit, but otherwise, it feels like home.

Dinan intake + exhaust do produce nice sound, can confirm, my son has that combo and gets constant compliments.

I do like it more than Afe + stock exhaust on mine and thinking of getting Dinan exhaust.


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[cakM3]

Dinan intake + exhaust do produce nice sound, can confirm, my son has that combo and gets constant compliments.

I do like it more than Afe + stock exhaust on mine and thinking of getting Dinan exhaust.


I have not heard the DINAN intake and DINAN exhaust on the ZHP but can say from experience that the Gruppe M intake and UUC CORSA TSE3 exhaust with stock headers does sound amazing and the car was peppier in performance as well... the other thing I really loved about the setup I had on my last ZHP was the burble sound the car made while cruising at low speeds... just sounded right with the ZHP...

[Galapolis]

Been thinking about that DINAN intake for some time now for that little extra sound. Wish I could hear it in person though, hard to make a decision based on descriptions.

[cakM3]

Getting the DINAN badge is nice to have but in my opinion, you're overpaying for the performance gain and the name... there are better solutions out there for the money....

[Galapolis]

Getting the DINAN badge is nice to have but in my opinion, you're overpaying for the performance gain and the name... there are better solutions out there for the money....

Unfortunately there aren't though, DINAN is the only affordable intake that maintains the stock box design. Would also love the BMW Performance intake but I think that train has left the station a long time ago considering the prices.

[cakM3]

Unfortunately there aren't though, DINAN is the only affordable intake that maintains the stock box design. Would also love the BMW Performance intake but I think that train has left the station a long time ago considering the prices.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211208/8b3254ec043ea4eb6c26c800729ace42.png
You're right because the Gruppe M intake I use on my ZHP run around $400 used and retails close to $800 brand new...


Sent from my iPhone 11 Pro Max using Tapatalk Pro

[BMWCurves]

I have not heard the DINAN intake and DINAN exhaust on the ZHP but can say from experience that the Gruppe M intake and UUC CORSA TSE3 exhaust with stock headers does sound amazing and the car was peppier in performance as well... the other thing I really loved about the setup I had on my last ZHP was the burble sound the car made while cruising at low speeds... just sounded right with the ZHP...

The GruppeM intake is my favorite noise-related modification if I could only choose one item. The TSE3 exhaust bundled with it is really great. Sometimes I find the burbles a little childish, but it really puts a smile on my face and that's all that matters to me (and isn't overly obtrusive to neighbors, which is also important).


Been thinking about that DINAN intake for some time now for that little extra sound. Wish I could hear it in person though, hard to make a decision based on descriptions.

I wish I had an actually good mic to record what it sounds like. It's maybe 10-15% more volume than stock, and a deeper, throatier sound overall. I'd be pretty happy with a Dinan setup. This is an okay example video of it:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMq_3AMA8N4


Getting the DINAN badge is nice to have but in my opinion, you're overpaying for the performance gain and the name... there are better solutions out there for the money....

I don't remember much of a change in performance when I swapped to the GruppeM / UUC TSE3 exhaust combo in either throttle response or otherwise, but my butt dyno isn't very sensitive. I think almost any bolt on intake/exhaust shouldn't be purchased with the expectation it'll drastically improve performance for the E46. Mostly go down to preferred sound / price point.

[cakM3]

... I don't remember much of a change in performance when I swapped to the GruppeM / UUC TSE3 exhaust combo in either throttle response or otherwise, but my butt dyno isn't very sensitive. I think almost any bolt on intake/exhaust shouldn't be purchased with the expectation it'll drastically improve performance for the E46. Mostly go down to preferred sound / price point.

For any non-M you need to consider boosting the car any significant performance related "upgrade" and that alone will cost $$$$ if you go down that path. For me it has been purely for sound and some performance but not entirely for HP gains.... I have an M3 and Porsche to scratch my "go fast" itch... ;)

[Galapolis]

I don't remember much of a change in performance when I swapped to the GruppeM / UUC TSE3 exhaust combo in either throttle response or otherwise, but my butt dyno isn't very sensitive. I think almost any bolt on intake/exhaust shouldn't be purchased with the expectation it'll drastically improve performance for the E46. Mostly go down to preferred sound / price point.

Thanks for the video. It actually sounds quieter than my current setup (stock intake + ZHP exhaust), but I think that's mostly because I get a lot of metallic rasp through the Group N mounts.

We'll see, given the reasonable price I might just impulse buy the DINAN intake one of these days.

[BMWCurves]

Thanks for the video. It actually sounds quieter than my current setup (stock intake + ZHP exhaust), but I think that's mostly because I get a lot of metallic rasp through the Group N mounts.

We'll see, given the reasonable price I might just impulse buy the DINAN intake one of these days.

Cell phone videos don't really capture sound well at all for this purpose. If you watch a video of a stock ZHP, it sounds quieter, almost anemic compared to that video.

[sillieidiot]

I like the sound of the Gruppe M, but on my car, it actually felt like it lost performance vs. stock. I forgot that I swapped it out with my buddy when he needed a stock intake for smog. I was wondering the whole time why my car felt a bit sluggish but sounded better lol

[cakM3]

I like the sound of the Gruppe M, but on my car, it actually felt like it lost performance vs. stock. I forgot that I swapped it out with my buddy when he needed a stock intake for smog. I was wondering the whole time why my car felt a bit sluggish but sounded better lol

That's funny Hieu because I experienced the opposite. Better intake growl yes but my car also feels peppier after installing my Gruppe M intake. I actually look forward to driving my car with this intake installed.... I don't have actual data but just feeling the car as I drive it tells me having the Gruppe M installed is better than stock. Just my observation... but then the air where I am is much cooler then it is where you're located....:)

[BMWCurves]

Updating my list for my own reference
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids

Brake fluid: Flush every two years (previously every one year). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
Transmission fluid: I've passed the 30k mile mark and should probably change it for cheap maintenance. Currently Redline MTL, but will try Ravenol 75W-80 stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK.MCb3YQWKN0) per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22594-Transmission-Fluid-and-Clutch-Change).
Differential fluid: At 30k miles, should flush sometime soon. Continue to use Redline 75W90.
Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*

Mechanical items

Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-kit-basic-e46-e46pskit1)*
Track down source of significant coolant leak or replace the cooling system.
Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Will purchase recommended BavAuto Viton version from ECS here (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-high-performance-dupont-viton-synthetic-rubber-bavarian-autosport/11421719855v~bav/), since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS.
Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter
Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Assembly-fit-BMW-E46-323-330-325-64118372797/271655775554)
Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9412-DIY-replacing-guibo-(flexdisc)-and-or-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-(CSB)-doityourself).

Exterior

Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23869-DIY-Cheap-Rear-Quarter-Panel-Window-Stripping-Replacement)
Replace or renew fading side markers
Replace the hood and trunk gas struts (51238202688 / 51248254281, respectively) with Stabilus units

Miscellaneous

Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=sContact&partnum=28MR7SCON&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_))
Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***

Modifications
Suspension

Install used M3 27mm front sway bar (31352229755) and install correct bushings (31352229756).
Install front sway bar end links (31356780847)
Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Trailing-Arm-Bushings/E46-E36-3-Series-and-Z4-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html).***
Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)

Engine/drivetrain:

Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23803-M56-Valve-Cover-Swap) or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/german-auto-solutions-m54-ccv-replacement-kit/)
Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21379-ZHP-NA-Project-More-Power&p=594122#post594122)

Electronics

Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11178-E46-vert-quot-all-windows-quot-switch-retrofit-into-sedan-doityourself). Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit

Interior

Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10199-DIY-Cube-Trim-Repair-Color-Change-(Black-Silver-and-Red)-doityourself/page2) and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21135-Mishka-05-AW-Thread&p=612527#post612527)
Install the euro tray (51167038323)
Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster (https://id4motion.shop/blogs/bmw-3-series-e46-digital-cluster/bmw-e46-digital-gauge-cluster-signals)

Exterior

Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
Install used OEM Shark Fin

[YoitsTmac]

If you are looking for a clutch based LSD that’s BTO let me know. I had an excellent experience with Performance Gearing. He has a race and street version. You can spec the final drive and ramp angles. I have been very happy. I chose to buy my own for the more acceptable final drive over an M3 read, and because I had concerns over the M3 clutches. I also heard the ramp angles are aggressive on the M3 differential to make the car feel edge and exciting rather than performance.

I personally chose him for the lack of core return and he has some adaptable mechanical clutch mechanism. More clutches for the money and adaptable locking depending on driving habit. I don’t want to attempt to explain it as the owner would do a better job. He oozes passion for what he does.


Looking forward to a review/feedback on the spherical RTAB’s.

[BMWCurves]

Nice, I'll tuck that info away!

Yeah, these are all not immediately being addressed, with the exception of finding the coolant leak. But am hoping to get that taken care of and then do the RTABs and the front sway bar.

[BMWCurves]

Current mileage: 86,777

Some maintenance:
My car has sat for the past couple of weeks because it has a significant coolant leak. Ostensibly the only fault point was the junction between the upper radiator hose and its connections to the expansion tank and the radiator. Whenever the engine was running, coolant would pool at below the filling neck and then slowly spill out, but it was so bad that basically every other trip I had to fill with coolant.

I tried to see if any other leak existed using some dye (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I2VOCA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) and seeing if it reflected under UV light. No additional leaks were identified. Another symptom was increasingly loud chirping from the engine compartment, which, by the state of things, could be any of the pulleys (including the idler and tensioner pulleys that were recently replaced) because of how much leaked coolant was being sloshed around during regular driving. I thought it was the alternator as it was covered in coolant and made me nervous, so I purchased one of those automotive stethoscopes (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H8RHFT7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details), but by the time they arrived, the chirping had died down a bit and was tough to localize at idle (now only present when under acceleration).

So backing up a bit, I figured I had a coolant leak with likely culprits being the upper radiator hose (17127510952, Rein) or expansion tank (BMW, 17117573781). Since I was replacing those, I bought a new coolant level sensor (17137553919, BMW), some coolant (82141467704, BMW), and figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the return coolant return hose (11531436410, Rein). Unfortunately, I thought I had purchased a lower radiator hose (11531436408) as cheap maintenance while I was in there, but looking back through my receipts, I hadn't :facepalm. To chase down the chirp I decided to again replace the idler (11287841228, INA) and tensioner pulleys (11281748131, INA) and return them using FCP Euro's warranty in the near future. I again thought I had purchased an additional pulley for the AC compressor, but realized I just foolishly purchased an additional idler pulley.

Yesterday I put those parts in without too much problem. I referenced a few videos and guides (see below), but for the most part remembered how things should go. The one thing that annoyed me is I could not get the engine block drain plug out. I think my mechanic must have torqued it like crazy, which is unlike him, but I couldn't get it off with a ratchet, a breaker bar, a bigger breaker bar, or an electric ratchet. Defeated and not wanting to strip the plug, I left it be for someone else to deal with. I put it all back together and couldn't find any leaks. I had to bleed the circuit twice but it finally blows hot when it's at 91F and high fan speed. Additionally, the chirping I had heard seemed to have been eliminated so I am left with trying to decide if the chirping was somehow the pulleys I replaced or magically the alternator stopped being sad. Any thoughts on if an alternator gets sprayed with coolant, it could damage it in some way that I should be concerned about?

Cooling system references:

https://bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne1TYgnTCCg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKFE919xuoA

While I had the car up on jack stands, I also installed a used 26mm front sway bar I purchased in 2019 from an M3 part out car (31352229755, BMW) and then some new sway bar bushings (31352229755, BMW). I used some copper anti-seize lubricant both inside the bushing and outside against the bracket. Unfortunately, when trying to install some new end links (31356780847, LEMFÖRDER), I couldn't find (or only imagined I had) my thin set of wrenches so I couldn't tighten them down. I removed them and I'll leave it either for my mechanic or I'll buy a set of thin wrenches.

Sway bar references:

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/PDF_11107_BMW_E46_Sway_Bar_Installation.pdf
http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_eibach_sway.shtml

Both my hood (51238202688, Stabilus) and trunk struts (51248254281, Stabilus) were quite weak - my hood has attempted to kill me several times by just "giving up" and falling on my head). I followed a couple of videos, but it seems pushing the connector clip forward rather than up is the better method to releasing the strut.

Hood / trunk strut reference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvAOpcUtHAY

Finally, I rotated my tires because it was due.

I plan to have my mechanic give the car a once over for the power steering line, put in my Bimmerworld spherical RTABs, install the end links, and if I'm feeling lazy, have him install the oil filter housing gasket and replace my differential, transmission, and power steering fluids.

[Galapolis]

Unfortunately, when trying to install some new end links (31356780847, LEMFÖRDER), I couldn't find (or only imagined I had) my thin set of wrenches so I couldn't tighten them down. I removed them and I'll leave it either for my mechanic or I'll buy a set of thin wrenches.


I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

[BMWCurves]

I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

I was definitely doing damage to the rubber and I'd rather not pierce the rubber prematurely.

Also, what's the part number for the normal transmission oil? I found 83222339219 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/oil-for-manual-transmission/83222339219/) and 83222339221 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/75w-90-transmission-fluid-1-liter/83222339221/) but don't know which. I'll happily try it.

[san]

I've been able to tighten it with a regular adjustable wrench. It will seem like you are damaging the rubber but it will be fine.

Also for the transmission fluid let them put in Genuine BMW. I used it for 50k miles and when I drained it, it looked identical to the new fluid and had no visible wear or shavings. Shifted smoothly too, which can not be said of the Red Line stuff I have now.

+1 about end links and using genuine bmw tranny fluid


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[BMWCurves]

+1 about end links and using genuine bmw tranny fluid


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting, just a normal ol' adjustable wrench?

38805

And which BMW part no. did you use for the transmission fluid?

[san]

Interesting, just a normal ol' adjustable wrench?

38805

And which BMW part no. did you use for the transmission fluid?

That can work yes. I think last time I undid them, a friend was just able to tighten them using an impact wrench. But the first time, I used adjustable wrench and pliers.

I unfortunately have red line right now, so I know it’s not great. I drove a friends car with OEM fluid and it was much better. I was going to try this next time-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/75w80-mtf-lt-2-manual-transmission-fluid-1-liter-genuine-bmw-83222339219


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[BMWCurves]

That can work yes. I think last time I undid them, a friend was just able to tighten them using an impact wrench. But the first time, I used adjustable wrench and pliers.

Lol in the LEMFÖRDER packet that it comes in, it specifically says not to use any sort of powered wrench. Love it.

Pliers? On which side? I can get the nut on fine with a socket wrench, its the back side holding the end link still that's tough.


I unfortunately have red line right now, so I know it’s not great. I drove a friends car with OEM fluid and it was much better. I was going to try this next time-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/75w80-mtf-lt-2-manual-transmission-fluid-1-liter-genuine-bmw-83222339219

Ah okay, so the 83222339219 stuff, 75W80 MTF-LT-2.

[t.er]

I forget, do those end links have an internal hex on the end of the ball stud? You could run it down with a regular wrench (painful) or ratcheting wrench (less painful) while using an allen key. You can still torque it up once the joint has enough friction to hold itself together.

Or yeah, use an impact on the low setting with less of a trigger finger, and you can still torque it as well

[san]

Lol in the LEMFÖRDER packet that it comes in, it specifically says not to use any sort of powered wrench. Love it.

Pliers? On which side? I can get the nut on fine with a socket wrench, its the back side holding the end link still that's tough.



Ah okay, so the 83222339219 stuff, 75W80 MTF-LT-2.

Lol ya, I think as long as you don’t damage the rubber seals, it’s fine. I used pliers to hold it from behind to stop it from spinning while I tightened it down.


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[ZHPizza]

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N52WJRT/

[emoji102]

[BMWCurves]

Y'all out here being too smart

[sillieidiot]

Yeah, pretty much just holding that back part so it doesn't move. This one time, I just used a metal fork (like eating utensils). I just cut the 2 middle ones and bent the outsides until it could hold it. then tightened down the nut. It's not stupid if it works lol

[RUS_ZHP]

I just noticed that you're approaching 100k mark. Two more years or so?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Date: 02/17/22

Mileage: 86,777 miles


I changed the differential fluid using just over 1 quart of Red Line 75W-90 GL5 (purchased two quarts). Read my old post (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=429156#post429156) to remind myself that it needs a 14mm hex to remove both the fill and drain plugs. The drained oil itself was dark but certainly not overly dirty so I'm happy with this 30k mile interval I have. I had previously installed crush washers on both (part no. 07119963355) but that seems to be for cars with drain/fill plugs that don't have a rubber washer built. My plan is to replace both the drain and fill plugs next time as the rubber looked a little worse for wear (part no. 33117525064). For the job I couldn't find my fluid pump but purchased this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0853CNLYZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) I found on Amazon and it worked fine despite the description specifically saying it will not fit Red Line bottles. The pump can't screw down on the threads of the Red Line bottle but it functioned fine. Torqued them to 44 ft-lbs (60 Nm) per this thread (https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/torque-specs-differential-and-transmission-drain-plugs.496775/post-5603808) that states it is from their TIS manual
I also changed the transmission fluid. I was debating between Ravenol 75W-80 stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK.MCb3YQWKN0) per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22594-Transmission-Fluid-and-Clutch-Change), or BMW's transmission oil (83222339219), but I felt a little less comfortable with the Ravenol, and then my local BMW dealership was billing me $48/liter so I went with the two liters of Red Line D4 ATF this time around. I'd like to replace both the drain and fill plugs because they were stripping (part no. 23117531356). Per the above thread, I torqued the bolts to ~38 ft-lbs (50 nM).
Finally I was able to connect the new LEMFÖRDER end links (31356780847) using this slim wrench (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N52WJRT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details). I was only able to get a torque wrench into the wheel well at the strut (48 ft-lbs per ECS Tuning's guide (http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/PDF_11107_BMW_E46_Sway_Bar_Installation.pdf)), but not on the sway bar so I tightened it to "won't fall off" Nm of torque.

Unfortunately, I still have chirping coming from the alternator so I would like to have that looked at, as well as the OFHG at some point, Bimmerworld spherical RTABs installed, power steering fluid flushed / checked for leak at the high pressure hose, and check the battery since the car would not turn over after only sitting for a week.

[Galapolis]

I went with the two liters of Red Line D4 ATF this time around


Hope you like not being able to put your gears in when it's cold.:)

[BMWCurves]

List updated as of 02/21/2022
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids

Brake fluid: Flush next year (half way through two year cycle). Continue to use 1L ATE SL6-1.
Transmission fluid: Replace in 30k miles. Currently Redline D4 ATF, but will try either Ravenol 75W-80 stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK.MCb3YQWKN0) per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22594-Transmission-Fluid-and-Clutch-Change) or BMW's transmission oil (83222339219)
Differential fluid: Replace in 30k miles. Currently Red Line 75W-90 GL5
Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*

Mechanical items

Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-kit-basic-e46-e46pskit1)*
Replace lower coolant hose (11531436408) at next coolant flush (82141467704) next year.
Replace leaking oil filter housing gasket (OFHG, 11421719855): Purchased BavAuto Viton version from ECS here (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-high-performance-dupont-viton-synthetic-rubber-bavarian-autosport/11421719855v~bav/), since BavAuto was absorbed by ECS. Will use this guide (https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46).
Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter.
Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Assembly-fit-BMW-E46-323-330-325-64118372797/271655775554)
Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9412-DIY-replacing-guibo-(flexdisc)-and-or-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-(CSB)-doityourself).

Exterior

Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23869-DIY-Cheap-Rear-Quarter-Panel-Window-Stripping-Replacement)
Replace or renew fading side markers

Miscellaneous

Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=sContact&partnum=28MR7SCON&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_))
Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***

Modifications
Suspension

Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Trailing-Arm-Bushings/E46-E36-3-Series-and-Z4-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html).***
Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)

Engine/drivetrain:

Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23803-M56-Valve-Cover-Swap) or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/german-auto-solutions-m54-ccv-replacement-kit/)
Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21379-ZHP-NA-Project-More-Power&p=594122#post594122)

Electronics

Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11178-E46-vert-quot-all-windows-quot-switch-retrofit-into-sedan-doityourself). Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit

Interior

Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10199-DIY-Cube-Trim-Repair-Color-Change-(Black-Silver-and-Red)-doityourself/page2) and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21135-Mishka-05-AW-Thread&p=612527#post612527)
Install the euro tray (51167038323)
Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster (https://id4motion.shop/blogs/bmw-3-series-e46-digital-cluster/bmw-e46-digital-gauge-cluster-signals)

Exterior

Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
Install used OEM Shark Fin

[BMWCurves]

Hope you like not being able to put your gears in when it's cold.:)

Eh, I had trouble with MTL, so we'll see if this is any better.

[BMWM3186]

Eh, I had trouble with MTL, so we'll see if this is any better.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini-manual-trans-fluid-83220403247#description

I used this FEBI fluid after MTL and have had pretty good results. Not perfect in the cold but I do think its a bit better than MTL in that regard

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 86,790

Not much to report. While I was on my last vacation for the foreseeable next few years (bicycled from Siagon to Hanoi in Vietnam!), my mechanic took a look at the chirping coming from my alternator that I was concerned about the significant coolant leak splashing all over the alternator having damaged the alternator in some way. My car had been sitting for some time before he laid eyes on it, and couldn't reproduce it for several days straight so for now it's "fixed."

Since replacing the coolant system items there hasn't been any noticeable coolant leak and everything has been running well (he yells confidently over plastic rattles throughout the car). Took her for a trip down to Eugene for the marathon this past weekend without a hitch. Finish line photos show how I choose to approach life: blindly, yet confidently.

https://i.imgur.com/wJfMwNQ.jpg

Lots to do between now and when I start as an intern in June, but I am also poor. We'll see which way my heart leans

[san]

While I was on my last vacation for the foreseeable next few years (bicycled from Siagon to Hanoi in Vietnam!)

*Top gear flashbacks*


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[BMWCurves]

*Top gear flashbacks*

I briefly thought about renting a moped in Vietnam to live out my Top Gear dream, but am thankful I opted for that option when my girlfriend and I stopped in Thailand for a few days before we flew home. Apart from Thailand apparently driving on the wrong side of the road, it was a lot less busy/hectic. Just look at this suave, self-assured, renaissance man:

https://i.imgur.com/8fZGsqn.jpg

[fredo]

Cool pics. And GL with internship!

[san]

Haha, that pic is great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

This thread should be marked NSFW for that much thigh action [emoji91][emoji91][emoji91]

[BMWCurves]

Cool pics. And GL with internship!

Thanks! It's going to be a funky year learning not only to be a surgical intern, but I'm reapplying/pivoting to anesthesia so that'll be a nice wrinkle to the year!


Haha, that pic is great!

You know it, bb


This thread should be marked NSFW for that much thigh action [emoji91][emoji91][emoji91]

Pale thighs save lives (from skin cancer)

[t.er]

bicycled from Siagon to Hanoi in Vietnam!

Holy smokes!!! Did you bring your own bike, or rent one there (presumably you did this on something half-decent)? I just got into riding and will hopefully be picking up an old Bianchi 928 off a friend in the next week or two

[fredo]

Oh, man. I just looked at the map.

39041

[BMWCurves]

Holy smokes!!! Did you bring your own bike, or rent one there (presumably you did this on something half-decent)? I just got into riding and will hopefully be picking up an old Bianchi 928 off a friend in the next week or two

No we went through a bike tour program so they had bicycles for us. They had nice Trek hardtail mountain bikes which were great. The ultra low gears and compliance of the front shocks were helpful for the sometimes uneven terrain.

Nice, Bianchi is great! A nice bicycle really does wonders for getting out there and riding. I love my second hand 2011 BMW M Carbon Racer road bike. It gets a lot of odd looks from other bicyclists but I enjoy that as well:

39042

More info: https://www.bmwblog.com/2012/08/01/bmwblog-review-bmw-m-carbon-racer/


Oh, man. I just looked at the map.

39041

Yeah, we didn't do the entire length (had a train from Hue to a bit up north) but did ~600 miles I think. A lot of cool moments that I'll remember for a very long time

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 87,260

Not a lot to report, but does anyone have a good algorithm for diagnosing the passenger side mirror not working?

For the past three-ish years, the mirror will stop working intermittently. Interestingly, it will often improve after I give the car a wash. Currently, it will budge a bit when I press the mirror control, but then stops moving. To me that feels like the motor is dying but that's just a haphazard guess.

[san]

I can’t help but hope you get it working again.

Neither of my mirrors work or ever have since I bought the car. But the reverse tying function does. It hasn’t bothered me because once I set them manually, I never had to adjust them again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sillieidiot]

I'd probably open it up and see if you can see anything visually. Maybe it's just dirt lol

[ckcatzhp]

Sorry, confused. Is this car for sale?

[BMWCurves]

Sorry, confused. Is this car for sale?

No, it is not. This is my maintenance thread for my car. You'll want to go over to the classifieds section to find for sale ads.

[BMWCurves]

Crossed 89,000 miles on 07/08/2022. She's just easing into her prime.

https://i.imgur.com/6wM5knR.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Nothing to add, just chalking up the miles

https://i.imgur.com/FqTev4I.jpg

[BMWCurves]

As mentioned over at the "How many miles did you drive in 2022?" thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?24081-How-many-miles-did-you-drive-in-2022&p=616819#post616819), I only drove 4,334 miles this year, but that's mostly down to being a resident intern and having no real time to drive, except to and from work, and I live near my program's main hospital.

https://i.imgur.com/DKdLjmh.jpg

The stats:
Mileage at end of 12/31/22: 91,000
Mileage on 01/01/22: 86,666
Total miles driven 2022: 4,334
Estimated mileage for 2022: 7,500
Percent difference in estimated vs. actual: -42%

[BMWCurves]

I am prepping to do my OFHG replacement in a few weeks, I have stuff for an oil change and the oil filter housing gasket itself. What else do I need? I'll be following this guide that seem straightforward: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46

[san]

I am prepping to do my OFHG replacement in a few weeks, I have stuff for an oil change and the oil filter housing gasket itself. What else do I need? I'll be following this guide that seem straightforward: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46

It’s pretty straightforward, just a lot of fasteners. Just get a good torque wrench. Don’t want to snapping bolts while torquing down the OFH bolts.
You can replace a lot is things while you’re there but other than that, you don’t really need a lot of parts or tools while replacing the OFHG.


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[az3579]

I am prepping to do my OFHG replacement in a few weeks, I have stuff for an oil change and the oil filter housing gasket itself. What else do I need? I'll be following this guide that seem straightforward: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46Buy new crush washers for the VANOS oil feed line. If you're loosening the top and bottom, get 4. If only the bottom, get 2. You don't need to loosen the top unless you're replacing the line.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

It’s pretty straightforward, just a lot of fasteners. Just get a good torque wrench. Don’t want to snapping bolts while torquing down the OFH bolts.
You can replace a lot is things while you’re there but other than that, you don’t really need a lot of parts or tools while replacing the OFHG.

Have a torque wrench figuratively in hand.



Buy new crush washers for the VANOS oil feed line. If you're loosening the top and bottom, get 4. If only the bottom, get 2. You don't need to loosen the top unless you're replacing the line.

Perfect. I replaced the VANOS oil feed line a few years ago, so I don't need to replace it.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 92,090

Maintenance update: Finally got around to replacing the OFHG. Boy was it oily down in there, with tons of crud/dirt/grime all in those wings/fins of the main housing. Pretty straight forward, really. I sat there for a little bit confused because I glossed over the need to remove the bolts the power steering pump in order to get the oil filter housing loose. Had to remove the power steering pump pulley as well as the Turner power pulleys have an extra lip over stock that meant I couldn't fit a socket over one of the bolts. Other than that, not too many issues. No pictures, was in a bit of a rush.

References:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/11-ENGINE-Oil_Filter_Housing_Gasket_Replacement/11-ENGINE-Oil_Filter_Housing_Gasket_Replacement.htm
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC_cmsX68Ok

I'll be moving to NYC in late June so I'll be leaving my car behind at my folks' place for at least the next year. Just getting her up to date on maintenance and trying to figure out the best storage solution.

Other maintenance items:
List updated as of 05/03/2023
Green = parts already purchased
Maintenance
Fluids

Brake fluid: Overdue, have spare bottle of Pentosin DOT4 LV (Currently ATE SL6-1)
Power steering fluid: Overdue by a few thousand miles (30k interval) and about one year overdue for flush (five year interval). Continue to use ATF. See below regarding power steering lines.*

Mechanical items

Power steering lines: Leak noted previously by my mechanic. Relatively sure it's the feed line (32416774215[?]), but may also be the return hose (32416796390) or suction hose (32416750155). Should also just assess if other lines/components need to be replaced. (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-power-steering-kit-basic-e46-e46pskit1)*
Replace lower coolant hose (11531436408) at next coolant flush (82141467704) next year.
Replace soft fuel lines to/from fuel filter.
Replace differential bushings: One of them (unclear which) was found to be cracked by BMW dealership during complementary inspection. Will purchase OEM rubber parts (front: 33176770788, rear: 33176751808).
Adjust upper (13541438761) and lower intake boots (13541438759): Replaced when installing ZHPizza's large bore throttle body, but don't seem perfectly aligned (some bend in the upper intake boot).
Replace AC blower: Although squeaking/fluttering sound has improved, will at some point need to replace the AC blower motor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Assembly-fit-BMW-E46-323-330-325-64118372797/271655775554)
Replace driveshaft guibo/flexdisc (26117511454) and the center support bearing (26127501257). DIY guide here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9412-DIY-replacing-guibo-(flexdisc)-and-or-driveshaft-center-support-bearing-(CSB)-doityourself).

Exterior

Repair cracked/dying rear window gaskets using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23869-DIY-Cheap-Rear-Quarter-Panel-Window-Stripping-Replacement)
Replace or renew fading side markers
Replace right tail light for three dead LEDs in the medial line of vertical LEDs of the brake light
Find screw for front license plate bracket

Miscellaneous

Replace spare tire: I believe mine is original and should be replaced (I think it is T125/80R17 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=sContact&partnum=28MR7SCON&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_))
Get alignment following Bimmerworld spherical RTAB installation (see below)***
New tires, the PS4s are wearing out.
Find a replacement for the Xtrons headunit, it is SLOW

Modifications
Suspension

Install Bimmerworld Spherical RTABs (https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Trailing-Arm-Bushings/E46-E36-3-Series-and-Z4-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html).***
Install 330Cic or Xi rear sway bar (33556751267) w/ correct bushings (33551096669)

Engine/drivetrain:

Install M3 fuel baffle (16112229656)
Install M3 motor mounts (11812283798 [2x])
Purchase/install LSD of some sort with 3.23 or 3.38 ratio
Purchase/install the M56 valve cover per this thread (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23803-M56-Valve-Cover-Swap) or purchase German Auto Solutions CCV Replacement Kit (https://germanautosolutions.com/store/german-auto-solutions-m54-ccv-replacement-kit/)
Fabricate/install custom brake duct air scoop: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21379-ZHP-NA-Project-More-Power&p=594122#post594122)

Electronics

Recode the car as a convertible to have one touch up/down windows: Using this guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?11178-E46-vert-quot-all-windows-quot-switch-retrofit-into-sedan-doityourself). Would also require new center console trim and window switch (61316902183)
Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.
Install Bavsound Stage 1 speaker kit

Interior

Repaint the Black Cube Trim to Silver Cube trim: Using this "guide" (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10199-DIY-Cube-Trim-Repair-Color-Change-(Black-Silver-and-Red)-doityourself/page2) and Precision Grey paint from Advance Auto.
Fix lower steering wheel trim through this guy (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21135-Mishka-05-AW-Thread&p=612527#post612527)
Install the euro tray (51167038323)
Consider ID4Motion's digital cluster (https://id4motion.shop/blogs/bmw-3-series-e46-digital-cluster/bmw-e46-digital-gauge-cluster-signals)

Exterior

Purchase/paint brake calipers black using G2 kit
Install used OEM Shark Fin

[cakM3]

Install M3 gauge cluster if someone can figure out coding the shift lights for a manual, non-M car.

I wrote up a DIY to install an OEM M3 gauge cluster.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23956-M3-Gauge-Cluster-Retrofit-Thread

Since your car is a coupe all you need is to have your RPM Red LEDs changed (contact info provided in DIY) so the new red line starts at 7k rpm (changing out two amber LEDs for red LEDs.

Then contacting Dimitri in Vienna (contact info in DIY) to have an interface box made that will have the OEM M3 gauge cluster work in your ZHP.

I did my retrofit in this manner and have a functional Gauge cluster including shift lights[emoji41] I was not able to find any information on how to code in the DME and Gauge Cluster to work although I know Terraphantm (Mirza) had done the programming. I reached out to him when I began my OEM M3 gauge cluster project and he never responded so I found another solution which also works then wrote up and posted the DIY here to help others . . .

Very impressive list!! [emoji1417]

Sent from my iPhone 11 Pro Max using Tapatalk Pro

[cakM3]

I am prepping to do my OFHG replacement in a few weeks, I have stuff for an oil change and the oil filter housing gasket itself. What else do I need? I'll be following this guide that seem straightforward: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46

Will, I also recommend replacing the VANOS oil supply line and banjo bolts while you're doing your OFHG. Also get the Viton gasket as it will last much longer than the oem one.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-oil-filter-housing-gasket-high-performance-dupont-viton-synthetic-rubber-bavarian-autosport/11421719855v~bav/

I would rather do this once than having to do this again because the gasket failed a few months later...

[BMWCurves]

Will, I also recommend replacing the VANOS oil supply line and banjo bolts while you're doing your OFHG. Also get the Viton gasket as it will last much longer than the oem one.

I did! Well, I replaced the VANOS oil feed line a while ago when I replaced my VANOS. This time I replaced the crush washers and banjo bolts. And I used a Viton gasket from Bavarian Autosport (now owned? by ECS Tuning).

As for the cluster, very much on my "to do in the future" list, but unlikely to be done soon. I loved reading your write up, very straightforward, although it'll take some time before I'm there

[cakM3]

I did! Well, I replaced the VANOS oil feed line a while ago when I replaced my VANOS. This time I replaced the crush washers and banjo bolts. And I used a Viton gasket from Bavarian Autosport (now owned? by ECS Tuning).

As for the cluster, very much on my "to do in the future" list, but unlikely to be done soon. I loved reading your write up, very straightforward, although it'll take some time before I'm there

When you are ready to do the M3 Gauge Cluster retrofit . . . if you decide to go with my DIY, don't hesitate to contact me to go over everything if you need [emoji1417]


Sent from my iPhone 11 Pro Max using Tapatalk Pro

[BMWCurves]

When you are ready to do the M3 Gauge Cluster retrofit . . . if you decide to go with my DIY, don't hesitate to contact me to go over everything if you need [emoji1417]

Thanks, will do!

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 92,9xx

No real updates. It's been stored at my folks' place (ain't no way I'm paying $450/month for parking in NYC on my salary). Took it out of "storage" (purchased the "5-layer all climate" soft car cover from Car Cover World (https://www.carcoverworld.com/covercraft-5-layer-car-cover)) while I was home for a few days. Oh so nice to be back behind the wheel. Got to ring it out a bit on some twisty roads in the rain; made for good fun. Last car I drove was a current gen Toyota RAV4 rental while I was in Banff, a little different of a car, although it did make me want Apple CarPlay

[BMWCurves]

Home for ~30 hours to see my ailing grandfather. Drove my car and it crossed the 93k mark (my fiancée took the pic, not me):

40234

[san]

Home for ~30 hours to see my ailing grandfather. Drove my car and it crossed the 93k mark (my fiancée took the pic, not me):

40234

Hope your grandfather’s health improves.

Congrats on getting engaged.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Sorry to hear about your grandfather, I hope his health improves! Congrats on your engagement :thumbsup

also . . . good to see you got to take your ZHP out :)

[slater]

william, sorry to hear about your grandfather. i'm assuming since you're home for 30 hours, you travelled a distance, and the prognosis isn't good. sorry to hear that.

lots of ailing old folks in my family right now (including both of my parents), so i feel for you, man.

peter

[BMWCurves]

Hope your grandfather’s health improves.


Sorry to hear about your grandfather, I hope his health improves!


william, sorry to hear about your grandfather. i'm assuming since you're home for 30 hours, you travelled a distance, and the prognosis isn't good. sorry to hear that.

lots of ailing old folks in my family right now (including both of my parents), so i feel for you, man.

peter

Thank you all for the kind words! He passed early this morning. This was an expected outcome and am thankful that he was surrounded and supported by our loving family in the preceding days, and did not appear to be in any discomfort. He was a man who lived life richly, retired at 55 and explored the world for 40+ wonderful years.


Congrats on getting engaged.


Congrats on your engagement :thumbsup

also . . . good to see you got to take your ZHP out

Thank you! As I told my now fiancée, it was one of the easiest questions of my life to ask, and have been riding the high ever since. It hasn't faded one bit.

https://i.imgur.com/aZYZKZf.gif

[fredo]

William, I’m very sorry to hear the news. May he RIP.

[slater]

Thank you all for the kind words! He passed early this morning. This was an expected outcome and am thankful that he was surrounded and supported by our loving family in the preceding days, and did not appear to be in any discomfort. He was a man who lived life richly, retired at 55 and explored the world for 40+ wonderful years.

william, i am sorry for your loss. 95 is a good run... i am glad you and your family were there to be with him.



Thank you! As I told my now fiancée, it was one of the easiest questions of my life to ask, and have been riding the high ever since. It hasn't faded one bit.

that's amazing. like, seriously amazing - i'm super happy for you! when are the bells ringing?

[BMWCurves]

that's amazing. like, seriously amazing - i'm super happy for you! when are the bells ringing?

August 2025! We feed each other's goofiness, seen here doing the most low-rent cosplay on site at Plaza de España where this scene from Attack of the Clones was shot, days after I had proposed to her in Spain. Gotta hold onto her.

https://i.imgur.com/HCE9V7Y.jpeg

[slater]

aww, man - that's sweet. very cool!

august 2025... that will be my wife's and my 20th anniversary. holy crap. why are you waiting so long? (just curious.)

[Will]

Sorry about your grandfather.

That's awesome about engagement. congrats!!

[BMWCurves]

Sorry about your grandfather.

Appreciate the condolences! Like I have said before, he led a great life, and it was time. He wasn't able to do the things he loved, it was a rapid but expected decline, and he was surrounded by family as it happened. 98 is plenty of time on this rock.


That's awesome about engagement. congrats!!

Thank you! It's a well-worn phrase, but I am indeed the luckiest man on this planet to be able to spend my life with her. She's incredibly smart, funny, beautiful, finds my silly antics funny, and most importantly, when I matched last year and we knew I was moving to NYC said very quickly "we'll find it in our budget to have a parking spot for your car." Ended up leaving my car back in Portland since a car in NYC during residency is downright silly, but yet another box checked of why she's the one for me.

https://i.imgur.com/ynMRU44.jpeg


aww, man - that's sweet. very cool!

august 2025... that will be my wife's and my 20th anniversary. holy crap. why are you waiting so long? (just curious.)

We're both very tired residents so we wanted plenty of time to plan and not stress about it too much (and give me ample time to moonlight...these darn things are expensive)! Videographers, DJs, caterers...they all get snatched up quickly back home, apparently.

[slater]

very[/I] tired residents so we wanted plenty of time to plan and not stress about it too much (and give me ample time to moonlight...these darn things are expensive)! Videographers, DJs, caterers...they all get snatched up quickly back home, apparently.

damn. that is smart to give ample planning time. stress... ain't nobody got time for that!

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 93,2xx

I came home for a few days, weather was perfect. Allergies were in full swing. Not much to say about the car other than it ran beautifully without issue. Pictured here in the parking area of my wedding venue (first time seeing it in person). Mt. Hood with a cloud hat in the background. She'll do.

https://i.imgur.com/fxiSCsU.jpeg

[fredo]

:like

[BMWCurves]

Letting a friend of mine borrow my car while he has family friends in town (they can't drive a manual transmission). The car crossed a mildly interesting mileage milestone while he was driving it today:

https://i.imgur.com/s8OiHsp.jpeg