William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

[BMWCurves]

Purchased an E46 M3 strut brace from a member over on E46Fanatics. It looks to be in great shape with all the hardware and for a good price. That brings my current list of maintenance mods as follows when I get home in June or July:

Oil change (nowhere near my normal 5k mile interval, but it's coming up on the year interval)
Brake fluid flush (1 year interval). This may include painting the calipers black, gun metal, or maybe blue.
Coolant flush (2 year interval)
Put back on my APEX ARC8 wheels (the car is currently sitting on my Style 135s in storage)
Install UUC TSE3 exhaust
Install E46 M3 front strut brace
Install E46 M3 motor and transmission mounts
Perform a full exterior detail
Perform an interior detail with Leatherique treatment
Swap carpets from all weather to carpet for the summer

Speaking of caliper colors, I thought I would ask you guys for your thoughts (again). I had previously thought about doing yellow, but I'm not sure now. I like the yellow for the contrast since my car has a dark exterior without a whole lot of accents. I'm now leaning more black, gun metal/metallic gray, or a BMW blue they use on brake calipers now in their sport packages. Thoughts? Below are a mock up with my calipers photoshopped yellow, red, and blue, as well as another member's black 330i with yellow calipers and some other caliper colors:

Yellow
http://i.imgur.com/aPTgfDx.jpg

Red
http://i.imgur.com/5AO1126.jpg

Blue (although I am not sure on that shade, I think it would be closer to the blue seen below)

Yellow
http://i.imgur.com/Fr26dKf.jpg
http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq109/maxx919/2003%20ZHP/726f887a.jpg (http://s438.photobucket.com/user/maxx919/media/2003%20ZHP/726f887a.jpg.html)
http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq109/maxx919/2003%20ZHP/62be406a.jpg (http://s438.photobucket.com/user/maxx919/media/2003%20ZHP/62be406a.jpg.html)
http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq109/maxx919/2003%20ZHP/32bb3ff4.jpg (http://s438.photobucket.com/user/maxx919/media/2003%20ZHP/32bb3ff4.jpg.html)

Black:
http://i.imgur.com/8JXbrgY.jpg

Gunmetal/Metallic Gray:
http://i.imgur.com/GSbq9YY.jpg

Blue:
http://i.imgur.com/HvDyHos.jpg

[YoitsTmac]

You could go two tone! I did mine light silver for the caliper and black for the carrier and anti rattle and a dark grey for the bolts. Looks really slick, especially with the black bushings. Forgive my wheel which is the dirtiest on the planet. Can't get a wash because it keeps raining.

Edit: yellow looks really good though
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170228/a2f97b67525e54f481af01373f06584b.jpg

[anandoc]

Hey William, nice to see an update on your thread.

I am also planning to get new calipers as part of my full brakes overhaul and paint them. I am thinking silver for the caliper and the bracket. Let me know which color you decide to go with.

[Cadeez]

Damn William, you've been busy! Even though you're not currently even living here, mods are being done on your car haha. I've been so involved with my own ZHP hunt and now my umpteen projects, that I haven't been searching too many other threads, glad I stumbled back upon this one though.

You did mention that you had picked up the UUC exhaust, but you did NOT mention that you also had a Gruppe M intake?! Once you get both installed this summer, I wanna hear this thing, I bet it'll sound awesome. How's the sound with just the intake? Congrats on the ///M3 strut bar too, I'm loving the understated clean look of mine. Looks like we have a lot of similar maint items on our lists, although I hope to have mine done by summer :)

I think you know my opinions on the brakes, but keep us posted on which you decide. In related news, this project thread is 51 pages long...unreal!

[slater]

you post a bunch of pics, but not really any of your car and nothing recent. what the heck? ;)

haha. :cheers


i'm sure you are going nuts not driving your car. i would be.

i would go silver on the calipers.

[san]

I like yellow but since the BMW performance brakes are the same color, I would avoid it... I vote for silver too...


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[holyc0w]

Yellow, silver or bronze would be my pick.

[BMWCurves]

You could go two tone! I did mine light silver for the caliper and black for the carrier and anti rattle and a dark grey for the bolts. Looks really slick, especially with the black bushings. Forgive my wheel which is the dirtiest on the planet. Can't get a wash because it keeps raining.

Edit: yellow looks really good though

Interesting, I had not considered painting the anti rattle clip a different color or doing a two tone scheme. I'll have to ponder that one.


Hey William, nice to see an update on your thread.

I am also planning to get new calipers as part of my full brakes overhaul and paint them. I am thinking silver for the caliper and the bracket. Let me know which color you decide to go with.

Yeah...wish I had more to report for my car. Soon though! Are you buying all new calipers? How come?


Damn William, you've been busy! Even though you're not currently even living here, mods are being done on your car haha. I've been so involved with my own ZHP hunt and now my umpteen projects, that I haven't been searching too many other threads, glad I stumbled back upon this one though.

You did mention that you had picked up the UUC exhaust, but you did NOT mention that you also had a Gruppe M intake?! Once you get both installed this summer, I wanna hear this thing, I bet it'll sound awesome. How's the sound with just the intake? Congrats on the ///M3 strut bar too, I'm loving the understated clean look of mine. Looks like we have a lot of similar maint items on our lists, although I hope to have mine done by summer :)

I think you know my opinions on the brakes, but keep us posted on which you decide. In related news, this project thread is 51 pages long...unreal!

Thanks, man! And yeah, plans are piling up, but that's a good thing. I'm excited; gives me things to do for my car, although first and foremost I just want to get in and let it stretch its legs out in Germantown area. The GruppeM sounds throatier and slightly louder (10-15% louder I would estimate at WOT above 3,500 RPM) than the BMW Performance intake which sounds slightly better than the stock airbox, IMO. If you go back a page you can see what I said about it. The GruppeM matched with the UUC TSE3 sounds great. I heard the GruppeM alone and with the TSE3 on NoVAphotog's car and it's what got me to looking for the TSE3. I'm reaaaaaally looking forward to getting mine on.

The M3 bar just popped up and it looks really clean and has all the caps and everything for a good price so I went for it. I know it doesn't do a whole lot, but it's factory and was in the M3 so I can't complain. And as you say, it's understated.


you post a bunch of pics, but not really any of your car and nothing recent. what the heck? ;)

haha. :cheers


i'm sure you are going nuts not driving your car. i would be.

i would go silver on the calipers.

HAHAHAHA hahaha ha....ha....

I miss my car. So very very very much. But every day I'm in DC makes me thankful I did not bring my car because I wouldn't have much time to drive it, it would sit parked outside, and when I did drive it, it would be a hateful experience 80% of the time (traffic, being in central DC, mostly only have time to use it for errands).


I like yellow but since the BMW performance brakes are the same color, I would avoid it... I vote for silver too...

The BMW Performance brakes are more Phoenix yellow, are they not? But I know what you mean, not really a factory color.


Yellow, silver or bronze would be my pick.

So it seems like the votes are:
Silver: 5
Yellow: 2
Metallic Gray: 1
Bronze: 1

I'm wondering...is it bad to paint the calipers twice? Since I already have the yellow kit, I might just go ahead and do that, then paint over it if I really hate it and do something more subtle. Thoughts? Words of wisdom? Jokes about pickles?

[anandoc]

My opinion - but the stock calipers are not large enough to be shown off in a bright color such as yellow. If I saw another E46 with painted calipers in something bright such as yellow or red, I would mutter "sigh...poser". It just doesn't look right. A conservative color such as silver or black would make it look clean and OEM-ish and prevent it from rusting and looking like crap.

Again, this is a personal choice - if painting it yellow makes you happy, go for it!!

[az3579]

My opinion - but the stock calipers are not large enough to be shown off in a bright color such as yellow. If I saw another E46 with painted calipers in something bright such as yellow or red, I would mutter "sigh...poser". It just doesn't look right. A conservative color such as silver or black would make it look clean and OEM-ish and prevent it from rusting and looking like crap.

Again, this is a personal choice - if painting it yellow makes you happy, go for it!!
I agree that the stock calipers don't have enough of a presence. With that said, I'd say it still would look great in said colors from a contrast perspective, but you do run into that "just painted calipers" thought that some people get on the street.

Against blue, I'd choose yellow all day long. Black or silver are a bit too boring for my personal taste. Can't wait to get a second car so I can remove my black Wilwoods and give 'em a proper yellow paint job! Of course this matches my personality; I'm far from conforming, like to be unique, and am a bit of an oddball, so highly contrasting colors are what I'm all about. ;)

The best advice I can give is go with what reflects your personality. Do you like to stick out, or are you more subtle?

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[Vas]

Stock boring calipers = keep it simple color aka black or silver IMO

[ZHPizza]

Also chiming in with the silver/black vote. I do like the uniqueness/contrast of yellow, but only if they were performance calipers of some sort and not the same hardware that's on every 330 (and 325?).

[johnrando]

I painted my rear calipers phx yellow with the G2 kit. It matches the BBK Phx yellow. Don't know if that helps.

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[BMWCurves]

My opinion - but the stock calipers are not large enough to be shown off in a bright color such as yellow. If I saw another E46 with painted calipers in something bright such as yellow or red, I would mutter "sigh...poser". It just doesn't look right. A conservative color such as silver or black would make it look clean and OEM-ish and prevent it from rusting and looking like crap.

Again, this is a personal choice - if painting it yellow makes you happy, go for it!!

I agree that the stock calipers don't have enough of a presence. With that said, I'd say it still would look great in said colors from a contrast perspective, but you do run into that "just painted calipers" thought that some people get on the street.

Against blue, I'd choose yellow all day long. Black or silver are a bit too boring for my personal taste. Can't wait to get a second car so I can remove my black Wilwoods and give 'em a proper yellow paint job! Of course this matches my personality; I'm far from conforming, like to be unique, and am a bit of an oddball, so highly contrasting colors are what I'm all about. ;)

The best advice I can give is go with what reflects your personality. Do you like to stick out, or are you more subtle?

Stock boring calipers = keep it simple color aka black or silver IMO

Also chiming in with the silver/black vote. I do like the uniqueness/contrast of yellow, but only if they were performance calipers of some sort and not the same hardware that's on every 330 (and 325?).

I painted my rear calipers phx yellow with the G2 kit. It matches the BBK Phx yellow. Don't know if that helps.

Appreciate the input, gentleman! Thankfully I have time to mull it over. I'm not really into silver despite that being the factory color. I think I'll either go loud with yellow (I think it looks decent with the black 330i I posted) or black to give it some contrast with my APEXs.

[BMWCurves]

Picked up a used set of clear yellow fog light housings from the current owner of the Estorilblau coupe. The pile keeps growing...

[Ridgey]

Picked up a used set of clear yellow fog light housings from the current owner of the Estorilblau coupe. The pile keeps growing...

That's what I'm saying! My pile of parts keeps getting larger and larger lol. Hey, with the Apex wheels, did you notice you a huge difference in ride comfort and handling?

[BMWCurves]

That's what I'm saying! My pile of parts keeps getting larger and larger lol. Hey, with the Apex wheels, did you notice you a huge difference in ride comfort and handling?

When I switched from my factory 18" style 135 wheels to the 17" APEX ARC8 wheels I definitely a noticed a small improvement in ride quality. I couldn't tell you if that was due purely to a lighter wheel and less unsprung weight (~28 lbs vs 17.2 lbs), different tire compounds (old Toyo Proxes vs. fresh Continental ExtremeContact DW), or the taller sidewall when downsizing from the factory 18" to 17." I will say that they are more comfortable ride-wise, and I found a noticeable improvement in handling and grip as well. The car is much more planted than before. Where bumps on a certain road used to upset the front wheels or make the rear wheels skitter about, it now absorbs those bumps and stays firmly planted to the ground. It was an expensive upgrade, but I'm aware of it each day I drive it and am especially grateful when I drive on some twisty backroads.

I had a thread trying to figure out wheel sizing a while back. The first post has most of my questions along with my final decision on sizing, impressions, and an interesting Road and Track article on decreasing wheel mass and its improvement on rotational inertia and acceleration: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16922-Apex-ARC8-17-quot-vs-18-quot-Offset-and-Tire-Size-Questions

[BMWCurves]

The M3 front strut bar arrived yesterday evening. My father looked it over and says it looks basically brand new and has all the associated hardware! I'm very excited. Now I have to figure out if I need those extended hex nuts for the strut tower since I have the strut reinforcement plates and the strut brace. Can you use the normal strut tower nuts, or do I need those extended ones (part no. 51717895241, link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/hex-nut-priced-each/51717895241/)

Crappy phone pic:

http://i.imgur.com/fP2wfqW.jpg

[anandoc]

The M3 front strut bar arrived yesterday evening. My father looked it over and says it looks basically brand new and has all the associated hardware! I'm very excited. Now I have to figure out if I need those extended hex nuts for the strut tower since I have the strut reinforcement plates and the strut brace. Can you use the normal strut tower nuts, or do I need those extended ones (part no. 51717895241, link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/hex-nut-priced-each/51717895241/)

Crappy phone pic:



William, the 6 nuts that came with your strut tower brace (as pictured above) are infact part# 51717895241 and can be used even with the tower reinforcement plates. I too have the strut tower reinforcement plates and I have the ///M3 strut brace installed with these nuts and its fine.

[BMWCurves]

Ah nice! I didn't even notice they were the same. I just assumed they were the same part as our strut tower nuts. Saves me some dough.

[anandoc]

Ah nice! I didn't even notice they were the same. I just assumed they were the same part as our strut tower nuts. Saves me some dough.

Yeah those strut brace nuts are very expensive at $10.50/ea.

[BMWCurves]

Yeah those strut brace nuts are very expensive at $10.50/ea.

Hence my fear of having to buy six of the stupid things.

[BMWCurves]

This nice weather in DC mixed with procrastinating while studying for an exam tomorrow has me daydreaming of getting back to my car :begging

Updated list of maintenance/mods to be done upon my return (for personal reference).

Oil change (nowhere near my normal 5k mile interval, but it's coming up on the year interval)
Brake fluid flush (1 year interval).
Paint brake calipers. I am currently foregoing my plans for yellow. Now I need to decide between either a lighter blue like today's generation ///M calipers or black. Leaning black.
Coolant flush (2 year interval).
Put back on my APEX ARC8 wheels (the car is currently sitting on my Style 135s in storage).
Install yellow fog lights.
Install UUC TSE3 exhaust.
Install E46 M3 front strut brace.
Install E46 M3 motor and transmission mounts.
Perform a full exterior detail.
Perform an interior detail with Leatherique treatment.
Swap carpets from all weather to carpet for the summer.
Inspect power steering fluid leak
Replace old fuel filter soft hoses

List of other odds and ends I need to do:

Finish my coupe interior swap DIY guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18663-E46-Coupe-Interior-Swap-and-Sound-Deadening-Guide)
Actively try and sell my factory coupe interior.
Buy an external microphone and record the sounds of the factory intake, BMW Performance intake, and GruppeM intake. Perform with the mic by the intake, inside the cabin, and by the exhaust. Repeat with UUC TSE3 installed. Make a comparison video.
Just drive the damn thing

I'm sure there's more I'm missing.

One of the most recent photos of it:

http://i.imgur.com/sggs329.jpg

[san]

Is the brake fluid flush really necessary after just a year and considering you haven't really driven it much?


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[BMWCurves]

Is the brake fluid flush really necessary after just a year and considering you haven't really driven it much?


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Honestly, probably not. But it's cheap to replace and brake fluid is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture with time. Driving probably increases the rate of moisture absorption (movement theoretically exposes it to more places where moisture exists) but there is a baseline absorption of moisture. Having stainless steel brake/clutch lines probably helps minimize moisture absorption as well.

[Lorenzo]

Good list of projects! I would not go with black brake fluid. The old fluid will be black - ha. You'll want to see the change in color from old to new.


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[san]

Good list of projects! I would not go with black brake fluid. The old fluid will be black - ha. You'll want to see the change in color from old to new.


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Hmm, I thought he was talking about the caliper paint. What are black, yellow and blue brake fluids?


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[Lorenzo]

Hmm, I thought he was talking about the caliper paint. What are black, yellow and blue brake fluids?


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Ha. You're right. He mentioned the colors under brake flush - hence my confusion.


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[BMWCurves]

Yup :facepalm. I had copied that list from an earlier post and did a piss poor job of editing.

[ELCID86]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170411/eda0fe1f20b74ded9df5de68327614d4.jpg
;-)
(And good luck on the exam! )

[BMWCurves]

Haha, appreciate it!

[slater]

...so when do you get back home?

[BMWCurves]

...so when do you get back home?

Not sure yet, but probably early or mid-June. There are a lot of things up in the air. I'll have hopefully submitted my medical school applications by early June. Then I have to consider if I'm going to take the MCAT again by mid-August. In the mean time I'll be doing some job searching for the coming year while I wait to hear from medical schools. I have two potential job offers here in DC and one in Portland. I'd prefer a job in Portland since it'll be lower cost of living and I have lots of friends and family there. We'll see...

[slater]

Not sure yet, but probably early or mid-June. There are a lot of things up in the air. I'll have hopefully submitted my medical school applications by early June. Then I have to consider if I'm going to take the MCAT again by mid-August. In the mean time I'll be doing some job searching for the coming year while I wait to hear from medical schools. I have two potential job offers here in DC and one in Portland. I'd prefer a job in Portland since it'll be lower cost of living and I have lots of friends and family there. We'll see...

nice. i've never been to portland, but i imagine i would prefer it over DC - the climate for one, and i love the PacNW.

[BMWCurves]

nice. i've never been to portland, but i imagine i would prefer it over DC - the climate for one, and i love the PacNW.

Well if you ever pass through, be sure to let me know! I too love the PacNW.

[Sockethead]

Other than the winters, I liked where I lived in South Jersey/Philadelphia area. Didn't you spend some time in Philly?

[BMWCurves]

I went to school in Philly for four years and two years working. Philly continually grew on me, especially once I graduated.

[Sockethead]

How long ago was that? The waterfront has really bloomed down there.

[BMWCurves]

It has, the city's becoming popular again and really starting to build up since I left. I graduated in 2012 and left Philly in 2014. Before I left I was living down over on South Street near Jim's Steaks and when I was leaving the city was beginning to build up the waterfront. Had those trucks and hammocks and lights just north of Penn's landing that was really nice at night.

I do miss those BYOs...

[Sockethead]

Ahh yes, South Street! The wife and I loved it down there. I know exactly where you were... Bridgett Foy's was one of our favorite restaurants. We took the kids down there a lot when they were still in the stroller. They loved that park. Lots of good people watching down there ;)
Philly was about 15 minutes from our house in Jersey. I grew up on the Main Line, west of Philly in PA.

[BMWCurves]

Yup! IDefinitely enjoyed Bridget Foy's a few times. South Street was a great area to live in; there were cool shops (gotta have my Rita's wooder ice), good restaurants, rent was relatively cheap, and a young population like me. I do miss it from time to time. I have some older family out on the Main Line that I see every so often. I lived up in Manayunk as well, and my parents lived in East Falls for a while my mom was at school years ago.

[Sockethead]

Cool! glad to see someone else that likes the area.... Terraphantm is going to School there too. I gave him a few tips on places to go.
You know VAC Motorsports is right off of Snyder Ave. We got a tour of their facility when Kristen had her LSD put in the 135 by them... good bunch of people there.

[BMWCurves]

Cool! glad to see someone else that likes the area.... Terraphantm is going to School there too. I gave him a few tips on places to go.
You know VAC Motorsports is right off of Snyder Ave. We got a tour of their facility when Kristen had her LSD put in the 135 by them... good bunch of people there.

Definitely. It's very different from the PacNW, but in a mostly good way and I'm glad I lived there for a while. I spoke to Terra via PM last year when he mentioned he was going to school there. Hopefully he's found time to explore the city. I'm interested in what you suggested to him, I always have my own list but I discovered that some of those places have disappeared since I left.

I never went to VAC, actually, but they seemed like a good shop. I was planning to go to them when I was first thinking of buying my old '03 330Ci, but the sellers were way up in NW so I had the PPI done at Bavarian Specialties up by KoP. I ended up doing maintenance through them since they were close to me in Manayunk.

[Sockethead]

I told him about the waterfront, South Street and the White Dog Café in University City. There are so many Good restaurants down there that I couldn't name them all. Jones was one of our favorite restaurants too. the whole menu is comfort food

I know where that shop is in KoP. I worked for a computer manufacturer right down the street from there in the late 90's.

[BMWCurves]

~24 days until I'm home and can be reunited with my car. Hopefully mice or other small vermin haven't taken up residence and found the ever tantalizing wiring/rubber of my car as delicious.

Picked up a set of LEDs for my front turn signals from Nate, so now the maintenance to be done currently stands with the following:

Oil change (nowhere near my normal 5k mile interval, but it's around the 1 year interval). Still need to purchase oil and filter kit. Need to decide if I want to stick with Mobil1 0W-40 or go with something else.
Brake fluid flush (1 year interval). Still have an unopened bottle of Pentosin DOT4 LV I'll use.
Paint brake calipers. I am currently foregoing my plans for yellow. Now I need to decide between either a lighter blue like today's generation ///M calipers or black. Leaning black. Or maybe I'll get roped into some 135i calipers...
Coolant flush (2 year interval). Need to purchase coolant/crush washers for the engine block.
Put back on my APEX ARC8 wheels (the car is currently sitting on my Style 135s in storage).
Install yellow fog lights.
Install UUC TSE3 exhaust. Still need to purchase exhaust gaskets.
Install E46 M3 front strut brace.
Install E46 M3 motor and transmission mounts.
Install LED bulbs in the front turn signals (Philips X-Treme Ultinon T20 Amber LED)
Perform a full exterior detail (ugh).
Perform an interior detail with Leatherique treatment. Need to purchase the Leatherique.
Swap carpets from all weather to carpet for the summer.
Inspect power steering fluid leak
Replace old fuel filter soft hoses. Need to purchase Bav Auto kit.

List of other odds and ends I need to do:

Finish my coupe interior swap DIY guide (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18663-E46-Coupe-Interior-Swap-and-Sound-Deadening-Guide)
Actively try and sell my factory coupe interior.
Buy an external microphone and record the sounds of the factory intake, BMW Performance intake, and GruppeM intake. Perform with the mic by the intake, inside the cabin, and by the exhaust. Repeat with UUC TSE3 installed. Make a comparison video.
Just drive the damn thing


Can't say I haven't spent some of my time waiting by listening to the TSE3 videos...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfJ5_9DAvvw

[ELCID86]

Nice list [emoji1360]. I know you'll be glad to get back home to her. What's next for you?

[BMWCurves]

Nice list [emoji1360]. I know you'll be glad to get back home to her. What's next for you?

I'll (hopefully) have sent out my med school apps by the time I leave and then it's job hunting back home, and possibly taking the MCAT again (ugh). I have a few leads on jobs so I'm not too worried. Basically plan to relax a bit this summer and enjoy myself before I pick up again with work and working on secondaries from medical schools.

[704sw]

Thanks for embedding that video...jerk.
http://media.giphy.com/media/Kerg053G7ZJUQ/giphy.gif

[ZHPizza]

Just drive the damn thing


I was looking for this the whole time I was reading through the list. Make this priority #1.


Thanks for embedding that video...jerk.
http://media.giphy.com/media/Kerg053G7ZJUQ/giphy.gif

That dude on the left has a nice rack

[BMWCurves]

Thanks for embedding that video...jerk.

It's provocative.

No it's no-

It gets the people going! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNUsxoxoAHs&t=2m24s)



On the real though, I can't wait to have this thing installed and put up more videos.

Edit: Also, can't say I'm not a teensy tiny bit envious of your 135i calipers.


I was looking for this the whole time I was reading through the list. Make this priority #1.

http://i.imgur.com/pKYGmxn.gif

I would love to be putting miles on my car RN. So. Close.


That dude on the left has a nice rack

Gynecomastia. Not even once.

[BMWCurves]

I'm home and loving it!

Sadly though, I have to wait to remove my car from barn hibernation until this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/A0BhBq2.gif

[704sw]

https://media.giphy.com/media/qLWdMYX1NYF2g/giphy.gif

[Cadeez]

Welcome home!! Looks like you brought that summer rain back with you, at least for a couple days. Supposed to be nice for the next couple weeks though stating on Sat, so you should have ample time to clean her up and get her roadworthy again. How's that project list looking these days? Moreover, what's first on the list?

I've got a few small things planned for this weekend while I'm up in Seattle visiting the old man. I figure I may as well put him, his lift and garage full of tools to work on Father's Day. I may even get him a burger and a beer for the trouble haha

[BMWCurves]

Welcome home!! Looks like you brought that summer rain back with you, at least for a couple days. Supposed to be nice for the next couple weeks though stating on Sat, so you should have ample time to clean her up and get her roadworthy again. How's that project list looking these days? Moreover, what's first on the list?

I've got a few small things planned for this weekend while I'm up in Seattle visiting the old man. I figure I may as well put him, his lift and garage full of tools to work on Father's Day. I may even get him a burger and a beer for the trouble haha

Thanks! I'm okay with the rain; it's typical June in Portland and I'm loving it.

I probably won't get all that much done this weekend, as I still have to go get the car out of storage and then I'll probably be spending a lot of time with friends and family, but the following week I'll get cracking on some items. I'll probably knock out the easy stuff first like LED front turn signal bulbs, M3 dead pedal, M3 front strut brace, etc. In the following weeks I'll hopefully get to more maintenance items like coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, fuel filter soft lines, M3 motor and transmission mounts, and installing the UUC TSE3 (so excite). Somewhere in there I need to wash the thing, and detail the engine bay for the first time in its life.

I'm also seriously considering getting my car prepped for CQuartz Finest coating so that I can be lazier about exterior cleaning of my car. Waiting to hear back from two places in town that can do it and maybe some paint correction.

What else do you have left for your car? I know you're doing your side mirrors and I don't think you've swapped your interior yet.

[BMWCurves]

As an aside, for those of you with a TSE3, can you take a quick look at the hanger on the muffler that is most inboard/most rearward of the two and tell me if it bends at all or if it is perfectly straight? It's hard for me to describe, but this one:

http://i.imgur.com/n3w3b4D.jpg

Which is correct, A or B? I have a feeling A is correct and the part out car the TSE3 comes from that was in a rear end accident probably bent the rear hanger a bit.
http://i.imgur.com/9ta707J.jpg

You can see the rubber mount is bent up (I believe):
http://i.imgur.com/S9fh3oU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Bc0FuDL.jpg

[704sw]

If it's too loud I'll buy it. Just planting that seed.

[BMWCurves]

If it's too loud I'll buy it. Just planting that seed.

Spenser be like:

30286

[BMWCurves]

Just purchased some stuff for the engine bay cleaning and other odds and ends:

Microfiber towels
Speed Master Jr. Wheel Brush
Simple Green
Extra spray bottles
LED reverse bulbs: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright Max 50W High Power 1156 1141 1073 7506 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White (gotta love that description)
Adam's In and Out Spray

[Sreten]

I think you are fine, it's supposed to be like that.

Here's how mine looked:

https://s21.postimg.org/lhkzuf25v/bmw_exst_p_1.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/lhkzuf25v/) https://s21.postimg.org/ktc5bh3g3/bmw_exst_p_4.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ktc5bh3g3/) https://s21.postimg.org/qwtpvdtpv/bmw_exst_p_7.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/qwtpvdtpv/) https://s21.postimg.org/8sqpaqw1f/unnamed.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/8sqpaqw1f/)

I bet you can't wait to drive it and work on it!

[BMWCurves]

I think you are fine, it's supposed to be like that.

Here's how mine looked:

https://s21.postimg.org/lhkzuf25v/bmw_exst_p_1.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/lhkzuf25v/) https://s21.postimg.org/ktc5bh3g3/bmw_exst_p_4.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ktc5bh3g3/) https://s21.postimg.org/qwtpvdtpv/bmw_exst_p_7.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/qwtpvdtpv/) https://s21.postimg.org/8sqpaqw1f/unnamed.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/8sqpaqw1f/)

I bet you can't wait to drive it and work on it!

Oh nice! It does appear similar.

And yeah, I just want seat time in it haha. I'm driving around in the rain in my father's NA Miata right now.

[slater]

I'm driving around in the rain in my father's NA Miata right now.

i hope the top is up.

[BMWCurves]

i hope the top is up.

Hard top is on. It's been in storage longer than my car, and it fired right up without even a hint of lifter tick. Gotta love old Japanese cars. Sadly he plans to sell it this summer if no one drives it. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM, it's a fantastic Miata with the rare R Package (pretty much this car: http://bringatrailer.com/2014/12/12/laguna-blue-67k-mile-1994-mazda-miata-r/). We would love it to go to a good home.

[RUS_ZHP]

Seems like you will be very busy for the next few weeks.
I can't wait to see you car with the exhaust installed [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Spenser be like:

30286

http://25.media.tumblr.com/03ce668337ddff99d09b05202587d437/tumblr_mwm0c7kfzm1r066hlo4_250.gif

[slater]

Hard top is on. It's been in storage longer than my car, and it fired right up without even a hint of lifter tick. Gotta love old Japanese cars. Sadly he plans to sell it this summer if no one drives it. If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM, it's a fantastic Miata with the rare R Package (pretty much this car: http://bringatrailer.com/2014/12/12/laguna-blue-67k-mile-1994-mazda-miata-r/). We would love it to go to a good home.

crap. i'll likely PM you for deets, please.... ugh.

[704sw]

crap. i'll likely PM you for deets, please.... ugh.

You can put it on the roof rails of the touring and drive it back.

[ZHPizza]

crap. i'll likely PM you for deets, please.... ugh.

This is hilarious. Let us know what the wife thinks.

popcorn.gif

[slater]

This is hilarious. Let us know what the wife thinks.

popcorn.gif

she definitely wouldn't be on board for putting it on the roof.

[BMWCurves]

she definitely wouldn't be on board for putting it on the roof.

But disassembled in the trunk is a go?

[slater]

But disassembled in the trunk is a go?

i would definitely be up for a "fly out and drive it back" kinda thing. always wanted to do that cross-country.

my wife is out of town right now. i'm sure when i bring this up she'll freak.

[704sw]

i would definitely be up for a "fly out and drive it back" kinda thing. always wanted to do that cross-country.

my wife is out of town right now. i'm sure when i bring this up she'll freak.

I feel obligated to inform you the NA Miata can accommodate an LS swap.

[slater]

I feel obligated to inform you the NA Miata can accommodate an LS swap.

i know. :)

[BMWCurves]

Loving that this is turning into the "enable Peter thread."

There's no rush, we'll keep it through August at a minimum to enjoy it through the summer one last time.

[704sw]

Loving that this is turning into the "enable Peter thread."

Jeez William, way to threadjack this thre---oh wait.

So, you get those LED signals put in yet?

[BMWCurves]

Jeez William, way to threadjack this thre---oh wait.

So, you get those LED signals put in yet?

Nah, I won't be picking up my car until Sunday.

[Cadeez]

Thanks! I'm okay with the rain; it's typical June in Portland and I'm loving it.

I probably won't get all that much done this weekend, as I still have to go get the car out of storage and then I'll probably be spending a lot of time with friends and family, but the following week I'll get cracking on some items. I'll probably knock out the easy stuff first like LED front turn signal bulbs, M3 dead pedal, M3 front strut brace, etc. In the following weeks I'll hopefully get to more maintenance items like coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, fuel filter soft lines, M3 motor and transmission mounts, and installing the UUC TSE3 (so excite). Somewhere in there I need to wash the thing, and detail the engine bay for the first time in its life.

I'm also seriously considering getting my car prepped for CQuartz Finest coating so that I can be lazier about exterior cleaning of my car. Waiting to hear back from two places in town that can do it and maybe some paint correction.

What else do you have left for your car? I know you're doing your side mirrors and I don't think you've swapped your interior yet.

That's a decent little list man, and all relatively "fun" in the scheme of things. You'll have to let me know how the tranny/engine mounts go, I've been debating replacing mine due to shifting into 1st & 2nd being a little tough sometimes. Why are you replacing yours? Your car still has crazy low miles, no real need to replace them. I wanna hear it when you get that exhaust installed too! I've been toying with the idea of an exhaust recently, I just haven't heard one yet that I think I can live with on a DD. What's CQuartz? Never heard of that before.

Yep I've got the M3 mirrors in the mail and should have them back in a couple weeks I'd assume. That poor lonely NB interior is still sitting in my garage waiting it's fate, still undecided there. Going up to my dad's in Seattle this weekend though and I'm taking a piece so we can use the dye I got with his airbrush. I want to see how it turns out. If it looks good, then I'll dye both fronts and stick that interior in there! We're also gonna do some maint stuff; tranny fluid, bleed brakes, check to see if the CDV is there and pull it if so, re-adhere my roof spoiler, etc. Nothing big, I don't want to work him too hard on Father's Day weekend

[BMWCurves]

That's a decent little list man, and all relatively "fun" in the scheme of things. You'll have to let me know how the tranny/engine mounts go, I've been debating replacing mine due to shifting into 1st & 2nd being a little tough sometimes. Why are you replacing yours? Your car still has crazy low miles, no real need to replace them. I wanna hear it when you get that exhaust installed too! I've been toying with the idea of an exhaust recently, I just haven't heard one yet that I think I can live with on a DD. What's CQuartz? Never heard of that before.

Yep I've got the M3 mirrors in the mail and should have them back in a couple weeks I'd assume. That poor lonely NB interior is still sitting in my garage waiting it's fate, still undecided there. Going up to my dad's in Seattle this weekend though and I'm taking a piece so we can use the dye I got with his airbrush. I want to see how it turns out. If it looks good, then I'll dye both fronts and stick that interior in there! We're also gonna do some maint stuff; tranny fluid, bleed brakes, check to see if the CDV is there and pull it if so, re-adhere my roof spoiler, etc. Nothing big, I don't want to work him too hard on Father's Day weekend

I bought the engine and transmission mounts because they were cheap(ish) at the time and I figure the current mounts are 12 years old, so why not?

We should meet up later this summer once I have the exhaust installed and you can see how that sounds to you, plus the UUC SSK. I know what you mean about a DD exhaust, I'm not sure if the TSE3 will be too much, but I've liked how it sounds in Daniel's car so we'll see.

CQuartz is a ceramic coating that you can have installed over the paint similar to wax or sealant, but lasts a lot longer. Talked with a guy for 15 mins on the phone today about it. He was very helpful and I think I may end up doing it along with some paint correction first sometime later this year.

Let me know how the dye goes, I'll be very interested to see. I'm surprised you haven't checked/removed the CDV yet! It was one of the early things I did. But that other stuff will all be nice to have done. Definitely look forward to seeing your car in person at some point.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 55,884 miles

Retrieved my car from storage today. Bird poop EVERYWHERE on the tarp I left over it. The tarp didn't cover everything and I had a generic cloth car cover on it that stopped the other bird poop for the most part, but still had some get through. Not a big deal.

Barn apparently lost a door during a wind storm this winter but didn't suffer any other major damage, and the car itself was fine. I went around and removed all the dryer sheets and moth balls I had strategically placed in and around the car. No rodent nests this time that were immediately visible, just a few spider webs.

The car cranked up fine like I drove it yesterday. No lifter tick or anything. I drove it out of the barn and let it idle and there was some smoke coming out of the front of the car. I think one of the dryer sheets fell back behind the block and is touching something hot behind the block because it's sort of a sweeter smell and it left this plasticky film on the engine cover (which is slightly warped for some reason). Otherwise the car drove fine all the way home. So nice to be back in it.

I plan to wash it when the sun sets a little later and then tomorrow jack it up and see if I can find the culprit for the smoke.

[fredo]

Reunited and it feels so good ... I bet. :roundel

[704sw]

Reunited and it feels so good ... I bet. :roundel

+1.

William, check for stowaways in your head and tail lights too. I had a spider take up residence in my Mazda's reverse light housing, and then die in there, leaving behind his unsightly carcass to forever piss me off.

[BMWCurves]

Reunited and it feels so good ... I bet. :roundel

It so so does! I won't drive it much until I can figure out and hopefully remove the source of the smoke (95% sure it's a left over dryer sheet).


+1.

William, check for stowaways in your head and tail lights too. I had a spider take up residence in my Mazda's reverse light housing, and then die in there, leaving behind his unsightly carcass to forever piss me off.

That's a good point, will do a more thorough inspection tomorrow. I already have a teeny tiny little spider carcass in my left replacement tail light but it has since been shifted so you can only see it from a certain angle and only if you're looking for it.

[ZHPizza]

Excited to hear how charred mouse tastes fresh off the exhaust manifold.

[BMWCurves]

Excited to hear how charred mouse tastes fresh off the exhaust manifold.

Like disappointment.

[Cadeez]

I bought the engine and transmission mounts because they were cheap(ish) at the time and I figure the current mounts are 12 years old, so why not?

We should meet up later this summer once I have the exhaust installed and you can see how that sounds to you, plus the UUC SSK. I know what you mean about a DD exhaust, I'm not sure if the TSE3 will be too much, but I've liked how it sounds in Daniel's car so we'll see.

CQuartz is a ceramic coating that you can have installed over the paint similar to wax or sealant, but lasts a lot longer. Talked with a guy for 15 mins on the phone today about it. He was very helpful and I think I may end up doing it along with some paint correction first sometime later this year.

Let me know how the dye goes, I'll be very interested to see. I'm surprised you haven't checked/removed the CDV yet! It was one of the early things I did. But that other stuff will all be nice to have done. Definitely look forward to seeing your car in person at some point.

"So why not?" Haha that's my excuse like half the time when I buy stuff. When I was under the car this weekend I meant to check the mounts but totally spaced it. We definitely need to meet up this summer though, I need to see your car and hear that exhaust. I'm sure the exhaust will sound great, I've heard a couple clips on youtube and it sounds pretty clean

Sounds cool, but I'm sure it's not cheap. Is your paint in bad shape? Did you contact places like 503 Motoring, or are there smaller detail shops that do it?

The dye actually went really well, after we figured out how to do it. Took a bit of trial and error, but the section we did turned out really good, and it completely covered this nasty stain I had on the back seat. I plan to do the fronts next, that's all I really care about, no one ever sees or sits in the back. I'll post some pics up in my project thread a little later today. That CDV was a bitch to do! I couldn't get the lines screwed back together, and I must've leaked all of the fluid out of the entire system, because when we were finally done there was zero clutch and my entire left side was soaked with brake fluid. It took us a ton of fluid and time to bleed the slave cylinder, but got there eventually. The clutch feel is completely different, at first I was worried because it felt like crap, but after the long drive home from Seattle it felt much better. Tranny feels great now too, shifts much smoother. I drained just over a quart of nasty black fluid out, and put in just about 2 quarts of Redline MT/90

[BMWCurves]

"So why not?" Haha that's my excuse like half the time when I buy stuff. When I was under the car this weekend I meant to check the mounts but totally spaced it. We definitely need to meet up this summer though, I need to see your car and hear that exhaust. I'm sure the exhaust will sound great, I've heard a couple clips on youtube and it sounds pretty clean

"So why not" is going to catch up to me at some point, but until then, live that lyfe!

I wouldn't think visually checking the mounts will do much, but I honestly don't know. Hence why I'm just replacing them. I'll let you know once the exhaust is in and we can meet up. I'm not looking forward to the process, and I still need to purchase the gaskets, but I'll get it done one way or another. I'm really hoping I won't need a torch to get off the exhaust bolts, seeing as I don't have a torch or hot gloves for handling.


Sounds cool, but I'm sure it's not cheap. Is your paint in bad shape? Did you contact places like 503 Motoring, or are there smaller detail shops that do it?

My paint's in pretty darn good shape, but it definitely could use a full detail. It has the standard wispy and superficial microscratches all over from weather and wear working away at the clear coat, making the clear coat look kind of like spider webs. Not a great description and sounds a lot worse than it is, but it'd be great to just get all of them removed and then put a nice protective ceramic coat over all of it.

There are a few shops that install CQuartz across the U.S., two of them local (one in Sherwood and another up in Vancouver). All in for the coating is $600 which isn't cheap by any measure, but also not eye-watering expensive. I have made no commitment but I'm leaning towards it since I've seen Rovert's car in person and it has a CQuartz coating and it looks gorgeous.


The dye actually went really well, after we figured out how to do it. Took a bit of trial and error, but the section we did turned out really good, and it completely covered this nasty stain I had on the back seat. I plan to do the fronts next, that's all I really care about, no one ever sees or sits in the back. I'll post some pics up in my project thread a little later today.

I saw the pics, it does look good! Interesting that the best method was to use a sponge to put it on. I look forward to seeing it


That CDV was a bitch to do! I couldn't get the lines screwed back together, and I must've leaked all of the fluid out of the entire system, because when we were finally done there was zero clutch and my entire left side was soaked with brake fluid. It took us a ton of fluid and time to bleed the slave cylinder, but got there eventually. The clutch feel is completely different, at first I was worried because it felt like crap, but after the long drive home from Seattle it felt much better. Tranny feels great now too, shifts much smoother. I drained just over a quart of nasty black fluid out, and put in just about 2 quarts of Redline MT/90

It's funny, I had trouble with the CDV on the other end because I was replacing the clutch line at the same time with a stainless steel line. Had no problem removing/reattaching the SS line with the modified CDV that I have (amounts to the same thing as deleting the CDV), but dear lord I could not remove the line at the other end. Had brake fluid all over myself as well.

Glad to hear it's improved clutch feel.

[ZHPizza]

$600 for paint correction and CQuartz is a good price. Very well worth it. Is that a quote based on them seeing your paint in person? Sounds like you might need more steps for the correction.

[BMWCurves]

First and foremost, it is SO nice to be back in my car. I love it. The sound, the sensation, everything. I forgot just how good the Gruppe M sounds above 4,500 RPM at wide open throttle. Hnggggggg.

http://i.imgur.com/0w5UAMX.gif

Updates:

1. Source of the smoke
The source of the smoke was never found but it has since stopped smoking so whatever it was (most likely a rogue dryer sheet) either burned off or dislodged itself and fell out. When I'm under there for the TSE3 install or something else I'll take a look.

2. Interior smell
The interior smells like fresh laundry and moth balls since that is what it has housed for six months. I have both driven the car and left the car parked with the windows open in order to dissipate some of the smell. It has been somewhat effective, especially eliminating the moth ball smell, but I will continue to keep all windows open for a while.

3. Wash - 06/19/2017 (55,911 miles)
Gave the car a much needed wash. Not much else to say about that.

4. Installed LED reverse lights - 06/19/2017 (55,911 miles)
I've been hunting for a LED solution for the reverse lights in order to complete my all-LED exterior lighting. I believe it was Nate who suggested these JDM ASTAR LED bulbs from Amazon in size 1156 (link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC6799K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)). Install was easy: just open the trunk, remove the trunk carpet pin things (I used a couple of my forked trim tools which made it very easy) and then pulled back the carpet. You can remove just two on each side, but I thought it was easier to remove three (pictured below)

http://i.imgur.com/1nYgXa2.jpg

Then it is simply a matter of pulling back the carpet, pulling out the reverse light harness/backing, and swapping bulbs. I made sure to test that the LED bulb was properly installed on each side before reinstalling the reverse light housing, carpet, carpet pins, and buttoning everything back up. I would have made a simple DIY for people (surprising that there weren't many when I searched Google), but it was dark and pictures weren't good. I might go back later and make one if I'm not super lazy. Pics:

Factory incandescent bulb on the left, JDM ASTAR LED bulb on the right

http://i.imgur.com/RC5iQGt.jpg

Shitty comparison of the light output. Left is JDM ASTAR LED bulb, right is factory incandescent bulb.

http://i.imgur.com/RGpf8F0.jpg

Overall I am very pleased with the purchase as it is much brighter and inched me closer to all LED lighting for the exterior. No issues with the gauge cluster showing bulb out either.

5. Installed LED front turn signal bulbs - 06/20/2017 (55,911 miles)
I picked up a pair of Philips X-Treme Ultinon bulbs from Nate which he was selling in the classifieds (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20192-FS-Badass-Amber-LEDs-for-facelift-coupe-turn-signals)).

Factory bulb and harness in my palm, LED bulbs in mah fingertips

http://i.imgur.com/96RatKG.jpg

Install was relatively straight forward on the driver's side. Just turn the bulb harness and remove, swap out the bulb (testing that polarity is correct) and reinstall. I found it was easiest to have the hazards on to help see and orient the harness back into place. I did have to move some wires out of the way as the large lip that seals the harness to the turn signal housing would get caught on them. I also used some baby needle nose pliers to turn and lock the harness into place once I had routed the harness back into the housing.

The passenger side was a little harder as it is more crowded by both the car's frame and the windshield washer fluid reservoir. I unbolted the single bolt holding the reservoir in place and moved it to the side and then performed the same installation method as the driver's side, albeit with a few more curse words thrown in because of the narrower work area.

Me, installing the LED bulb in the passenger's side:

http://i.imgur.com/Yh0qrK0.gif

Again, I am quite pleased with the new bulbs. They're bright enough for day time and I love the instant on/off that LEDs provide. No bulb out warnings either. I'd code out the cold checks through PA Soft, but my old laptop that had the software decided to go kaput while I was away in DC (it was 13 years old doe).

6. Swapped the Style 135 wheels for my APEX ARC8 wheels - 06/20/2017 (55,911 miles)
Cleaned up the Style 135 wheels a bit before storing them. I really do not enjoy cleaning those lead bricks, but they do look good. Ran up the hill to the local gas station and pumped the APEXes up to 38 PSI on all corners.

7. Installed used yellow fog light housings and painted/refreshed the fog light covers - 06/20/2017 (55,911 miles)
I picked up and installed a pair of used yellow fog light housings from Spenser that were previously installed in his Estoril coupe (my car has a piece of motoring history, waddup snitches). I think they were originally installed in the Estoril coupe by Peter. I believe they are manufactured by Ziza, part no. 010290ZIZ01A. At any rate, they are clear lenses rather than fluted and I think they suit my car's Orient Blue Metallic paint. Spenser was a gentleman and a scholar to include an extra set of bulbs as well.

I decided at the same time to refresh the fog light covers as they were a little faded and had some pitting. I removed them, cleaned them, and then painted them with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust Semi-Gloss Protective Enamel spray paint (link (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Black-Rust-Resistant-Enamel-Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-15-oz/50257747)) that I had used for the lower grille (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=462028#post462028)). I gave them three coats and let them dry for 24 hours. They came out decent, nothing to write home about. Less expensive than buying new covers, although new ones are cheap (something like $7 a side).

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/VQ7VSiz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oZIJ3i8.jpg

After (picture isn't great, but it looks better than before):

http://i.imgur.com/tLYd0K4.jpg

All together:

http://i.imgur.com/10RuWj5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LKFGVug.jpg

8. Had the car inspected at the DEQ (passed) and renewed the registration - 06/21/2017 (55,935 miles)
Relatively painless. No wait at the DEQ station and got a compliment on the car while waiting to finish up the paperwork. Maybe seven minutes total and I was on my way. I think they upped the price though, now it's $145, good for two years.

8. Installed E46 M3 dead pedal (used) - 06/21/2017 (55,950 miles)
I purchased an E46 M3 dead pedal (part no. 51432695411) from Shawn via eBay. This was a bit of a pain to install, mainly because I hate anything that involves BMW's brittle plastic. I found info from a few different guides (link 1 (http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/pedals.php), link 2 (http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=16)) but I didn't feel they were particularly useful for removing the sill from the sill clips. In short I stuck my fingers underneath the sill nearest the pedals and pulled up as evenly as I could on both sides. It took a lot of force but the trim clip finally let go and popped out the front of the sill. I popped out one more sill clip to provide enough space for the dead pedal to slide by the sill. I removed the sill clips using a set of pliers since the clips were still in the body of the car. Next I removed the philips screw in the hood release handle and then the screw underneath the handle holding the dead pedal into the sidewall. After that I removed the three screws of the bottom dash cover, popped out the plastic twist screw near the gas pedal, and the plastic pop rivet by the center console, releasing the bottom dash cover. I left the wiring for the OBD port and the light attached and just moved the cover out of the way. This made the removal of the dead pedal much easier (I had attempted to do this without fully removing the dash cover and it would not work for me). I highly suggest removing the lower dash cover if you're removing your dead pedal. I swapped over my trunk release button as it had smoother button action/movement than the one that came with the M3 dead pedal. I then reinstalled everything, which was a bit annoying itself. The whole process took me a lot longer than it should have, but I got it all done. The only nagging thing is that the M3 pedal is missing a clip at the top of the pedal that hooks into the bottom dash cover, but it's not a big deal, functionally or visually.

Overall I'm happy with the swap, I think it looks quite good:

Aforementioned clip/hook on my old dead pedal (missing in the used M3 pedal)

http://i.imgur.com/P1ND2EQ.jpg

Installed

http://i.imgur.com/9F15EMA.jpg

[BMWCurves]

$600 for paint correction and CQuartz is a good price. Very well worth it. Is that a quote based on them seeing your paint in person? Sounds like you might need more steps for the correction.

I agree, I felt the price was fair for what I would get. The paint correction is separate and not included in the price of the CQuartz install ($600 for most compact sedans/coupes). Paint correction prices vary on car size and what needs to be done.

[704sw]

Hell of a detailed update. Nicely done.

[BMWCurves]

Hell of a detailed update. Nicely done.

http://i.imgur.com/HR7WaAi.gif

[anandoc]

Nice werk man! The yellow fogs look great on your car just as they do on my jet black. And great job on the fog light covers.

I have a M3 dead pedal sitting around which I bought from slater. I hate yanking at the door sill to get this installed. The last time I did it to replace the cracked dead pedal, it was not fun. I also have OEM performance pedals which need installing. Too many parts sitting around - a good problem to have :)

[slater]

Hell of a detailed update. Nicely done.

meh. i thought it was lacking pictures.



:ducking



not even half-joking aside, glad to see updates. love the ARC-8s. i think a 5-7mm spacer out back would really improve aesthetics. also excited to see how the CQuartz thing turns out.



Nice werk man! The yellow fogs look great on your car just as they do on my jet black. And great job on the fog light covers.

I have a M3 dead pedal sitting around which I bought from slater. I hate yanking at the door sill to get this installed. The last time I did it to replace the cracked dead pedal, it was not fun. I also have OEM performance pedals which need installing. Too many parts sitting around - a good problem to have :)

you haven't installed that yet? ;)


+1 on the fogs/covers - they look great, william.

[BMWCurves]

Nice werk man! The yellow fogs look great on your car just as they do on my jet black. And great job on the fog light covers.

I have a M3 dead pedal sitting around which I bought from slater. I hate yanking at the door sill to get this installed. The last time I did it to replace the cracked dead pedal, it was not fun. I also have OEM performance pedals which need installing. Too many parts sitting around - a good problem to have :)

Thanks! Yeah, I don't enjoy anything that has to do with BMW's plastic. I do have the benefit of some free time this summer so I can knock these out relatively unburdened with things like a "job" or "responsibilities." You'll get to the dead pedal soon enough, I'm sure!


meh. i thought it was lacking pictures.



:ducking

OH HO HO HO I see what you did there


not even half-joking aside, glad to see updates. love the ARC-8s. i think a 5-7mm spacer out back would really improve aesthetics. also excited to see how the CQuartz thing turns out.

I've thought about some spacers, but it's low on the list at the moment. I'll probably just wait around until someone sells their used set. What are the best brands? I know very little about spacers.


+1 on the fogs/covers - they look great, william.

30356

[johnrando]

Def good stuff!

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 56,103

Installed a used M3 strut bar that I purchased from a guy over on E46Fanatics while I was still in DC. It's in great condition and even has all of the black caps for the longer nuts. Only noticeable damage to the strut bar is circular scratches caused by the four nuts on the bar itself, which I don't think is avoidable.

Install was straightforward enough. I just followed Madrussian's guide (Link (http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_oem_strutbar.shtml)) and your guys' suggestion for order of nut installation (base plates first, then bar).

Obligatory crappy phone pic:

http://i.imgur.com/m30iwXL.jpg

[anandoc]

Mileage: 56,103

Installed a used M3 strut bar that I purchased from a guy over on E46Fanatics while I was still in DC. It's in great condition and even has all of the black caps for the longer nuts. Only noticeable damage to the strut bar is circular scratches caused by the four nuts on the bar itself, which I don't think is avoidable.

Install was straightforward enough. I just followed Madrussian's guide (Link (http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_oem_strutbar.shtml)) and your guys' suggestion for order of nut installation (base plates first, then bar).

Obligatory crappy phone pic:



Great werk!

The GruppeM looks crappy in your engine bay - you should get rid of it ASAP at a ridiculously low price. Heck, I will even find you a buyer :) :)

[BMWCurves]

Great werk!

The GruppeM looks crappy in your engine bay - you should get rid of it ASAP at a ridiculously low price. Heck, I will even find you a buyer :) :)

http://i.imgur.com/39gsgsd.gif

Sadly, you'll have to take a number! Three people have already inquired about the GruppeM and my BMW Performance intake whenever I decide which one I want to keep.

[BMWCurves]

Decided to quickly verify that the airbag I received in the recall wasn't a part of this secondary recall (brought to my attention by ZHPizza's post here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20351-If-anyone-hasn-t-got-their-Airbag-recall-GET-IT-DONE-ASAP!&p=534881#post534881)):

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V047-4533.pdf

These are all white labels so it appears my airbag is A-OK

http://i.imgur.com/dRXaJdX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8EiSqVH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2mC6mEI.jpg

[johnrando]

Don't want to hijack your thread but I will be selling my Gruppe M soon, tell them to check our classifieds soon.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Decided to quickly verify that the airbag I received in the recall wasn't a part of this secondary recall (brought to my attention by ZHPizza's post here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20351-If-anyone-hasn-t-got-their-Airbag-recall-GET-IT-DONE-ASAP!&p=534881#post534881)):

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V047-4533.pdf

These are all white labels so it appears my airbag is A-OK

http://i.imgur.com/dRXaJdX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8EiSqVH.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2mC6mEI.jpg
Yeah, dude. Recall issued airbags are good. The secondary recall was to check cars that weren't originally part of the recall, but may have had the airbag replaced during regular [post accident?] service during the time that they were installing the yellow tagged claymores.

Not that that helps you and the other neurotic mafiosos sleep any better. Y'all gotta check it out for yourselves, of course.

[BMWCurves]

Don't want to hijack your thread but I will be selling my Gruppe M soon, tell them to check our classifieds soon.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Will do. But they're eagle-eyed fellows. They'll probably spot your ad quickly.


Yeah, dude. Recall issued airbags are good. The secondary recall was to check cars that weren't originally part of the recall, but may have had the airbag replaced during regular [post accident?] service during the time that they were installing the yellow tagged claymores.

Not that that helps you and the other neurotic mafiosos sleep any better. Y'all gotta check it out for yourselves, of course.

http://i.imgur.com/z0QwWpb.gif

Misread the point of the most recent recall.

[BMWCurves]

Forgot to add:

(07/07/2017) - 56,148 miles

Added a bottle of Red Line SI-1 fuel injector cleaner with <1/4 tank of gas remaining since it's been 6k+ miles and I figured it'd be good to clean out the injectors after having sat for six months. Topped off with a full tank of gas.

[BMWCurves]

Purchased the following from FCPEuro:

Exhaust gaskets for the UUC TSE3 install (2x18107502346)
1 gallon of BMW coolant (82141467704) - It's been 2+ years since I flushed the fluid the coolant.
Crush washer for the coolant drain plug on the engine block (07119963200)
1 liter of ATE SL.6 brake fluid - need to do a brake fluid flush

Also picked up some Loctite C5-A/LB 8008 copper-based anti-seize compound for the exhaust as well.

[holyc0w]

What did BMW specify for the coolant change interval?

[BMWCurves]

What did BMW specify for the coolant change interval?

Not a clue what BMW states (it's not in the inspection checklist), but I've heard a good interval is 2-3 years.

[Sockethead]

BMW states that the coolant is a lifetime fluid but we all know that isn't the case.
I've never fully flushed/ drained the coolant but I've done the expansion tank. 2 water pumps and a thermostat all at different times. The theory is that the original fluid has been diluted enough over the years to negate the need for a full flush...

[BMWCurves]

BMW states that the coolant is a lifetime fluid but we all know that isn't the case.
I've never fully flushed/ drained the coolant but I've done the expansion tank. 2 water pumps and a thermostat all at different times. The theory is that the original fluid has been diluted enough over the years to negate the need for a full flush...

Sounds like BMW to me. I figure a coolant flush is cheap insurance. $24 out the door for a gallon of coolant, a gallon of distilled water, and the crush washer isn't bad.

[Sockethead]

As an aside, for those of you with a TSE3, can you take a quick look at the hanger on the muffler that is most inboard/most rearward of the two and tell me if it bends at all or if it is perfectly straight? It's hard for me to describe, but this one:

http://i.imgur.com/n3w3b4D.jpg

Which is correct, A or B? I have a feeling A is correct and the part out car the TSE3 comes from that was in a rear end accident probably bent the rear hanger a bit.
http://i.imgur.com/9ta707J.jpg

You can see the rubber mount is bent up (I believe):
http://i.imgur.com/S9fh3oU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Bc0FuDL.jpg

I don't have my TSE3 on my car any more but I did have to bend one of the muffler hangars to get the tips to sit right in the diffuser cutout. Not that hard to bend if you have to...

[Vas]

Man wish I could find a used TSE3

[BMWCurves]

I don't have my TSE3 on my car any more but I did have to bend one of the muffler hangars to get the tips to sit right in the diffuser cutout. Not that hard to bend if you have to...

Glad to know it's not hard. Thanks!


Man wish I could find a used TSE3

I was lucky. I just searched "UUC" or "Corsa" (can't remember which) in my local Craigslist under the "auto parts" section and found it. It wasn't even labeled as a TSE3, just "UUC exhaust" from a wrecked car that was being parted out.

[BMWCurves]

Saw/smelled slight smoke out of the passenger side of the engine. Couldn't confirm source but I'm guessing it's a failing VCG due to the smell and those metal fins on the block over the exhaust manifold have burnt oil residue on it.

Anything else I should consider doing while I have the valve cover off? I assume BMW is the best brand for VCG?

[Sreten]

They are all more or less the same. I had very good experience with Elring, changed probably more than 10 and never had a problem.

Might as well use that opportunity and get a rebuilt vanos from Dr. Vanos or rebuild it on your own if it's original.

[Sockethead]

If you've never done the VCG before, make sure you get the complete kit and the rubber grommets for the VC bolts. You'll need a tube of black silicone too (black because you be able to see it when done)

[Sreten]

+1

Permatex Ultra Grey is my go to sealant - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HBGI8K&pd_rd_r=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS&pd_rd_w=MiRZm&pd_rd_wg=iM1A2&psc=1&refRID=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS

[anandoc]

Do your VANOS rebuild at the same time if you haven't already.

[ELCID86]

Do your VANOS rebuild at the same time if you haven't already.

Yep.

[san]

I need to rebuild the vanos on my car so bad, the low end torque is non existent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Do your VANOS rebuild at the same time if you haven't already.


They are all more or less the same. I had very good experience with Elring, changed probably more than 10 and never had a problem.

Might as well use that opportunity and get a rebuilt vanos from Dr. Vanos or rebuild it on your own if it's original.

I don't think I'm experiencing any of the issues of failing VANOS seals, but I guess if I'm in there...


If you've never done the VCG before, make sure you get the complete kit and the rubber grommets for the VC bolts. You'll need a tube of black silicone too (black because you be able to see it when done)

Yup, never done the VCG before. Seems premature to fail at 55k miles, but the gasket is going on 12 years old at this point. Are you talking about a complete kit like this(?):

30524

Source: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/ultimate-valve-cover-gasket-kit/11120030496kt2/

Part no. 11120030496 (valve cover) and (15x) 11121437395 (rubber seal)

Also, black silicone sealant. Can you steer me in the right direction? Something like this(?):

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1500423640&sr=1-3&keywords=rtv+silicone


+1

Permatex Ultra Grey is my go to sealant - https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HBGI8K&pd_rd_r=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS&pd_rd_w=MiRZm&pd_rd_wg=iM1A2&psc=1&refRID=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS

Or this, haha. Beat me to it!


To Recap: These are the parts I need so far for a VCG replacement and a VANOS seals replacement:

(1x) Valve cover gasket (VCG) and (2x) gaskets for the spark plugs. Comes as a kit under part no. 11120030496
(15x) rubber seals for valve cover bolts (part no. 11121437395, or as a part of a kit from 11120030496).
(1x) VANOS piston seals: purchase from Beisan Systems (part no. BS001, link: http://www.beisansystems.com/products)
Black/gray silicone: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HBGI8K&pd_rd_r=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS&pd_rd_w=MiRZm&pd_rd_wg=iM1A2&psc=1&refRID=NZ8REVRS09FE7Q03SHSS

Reading through the Beisan Systems guide for the VANOS seals (link (http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm)), it seems I there are some additional parts to consider. There was a similar thread here on ZHP Mafia from six years ago (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3853-Beisan-Systems-Vanos-repair-kit)), but I'd like to make sure I'm up to date. Any help on identifying which parts I'll need and preferred brands would be greatly appreciated:

(1x) VANOS gasket (part no. 11361433817)
(2x) VANOS oil hose/pipe washer (32411093596)

Items listed I don't think I'll need:

(1x) Oil fill neck gasket (11127526447)
(2x) VANOS piston bolt (11361748745)
(4x) Engine cover bolt/nut cap (11121726089)
(1x) Fan shroud rivet (17111712963)
(4x) Engine cover pad (11121730352)

Finally, am I missing anything? In that previous ZHP Mafia thread, Dane mentions banjo bolts, but I'm not sure where that's relevant. Should I replace the VANOS oil line or is this going full mission creep? Again, any and all info is greatly appreciated!

[Vas]

Don't forget the vanos oil feed line and crush washers for it
Part number for line below;
11361705532

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Don't forget the vanos oil feed line and crush washers for it
Part number for line below;
11361705532

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Thanks! Brand preference? A Rein kit is listed for $30 on FCP (link (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-line-m52-m54-11361705532c)), but BMW is $70 (although $50 at ECS).

[Vas]

Thanks! Brand preference? A Rein kit is listed for $30 on FCP (link (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-line-m52-m54-11361705532c)), but BMW is $70 (although $50 at ECS).Rein is fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[anandoc]

Don't forget the vanos oil feed line and crush washers for it
Part number for line below;
11361705532

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Thanks! Brand preference? A Rein kit is listed for $30 on FCP (link (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-engine-oil-line-m52-m54-11361705532c)), but BMW is $70 (although $50 at ECS).

I used the REIN kit. It even came with the 4 crush washers.

Actually, I have used REIN for all hoses on my car - power steering, VANOS, cooling system - and they have held up so far.

[Sreten]

I've done few Vanos jobs and I'll jump in with some suggestions.

Get a torque wrench if you don't have it. I snapped 2 bolts my first time and wasted another hour running to the store for tools and getting them out.

VANOS piston bolt (11361748745) - get 2 of these as they are so easy to break.

VANOS oil hose/pipe washer (32411093596) - You don't have to get a new Vans oil line if the current one is not leaking. Just 2 crush washers.

I would also suggest you get Rattle Repair Kit. If you rev the engine between 1800 - 3000 rpm you should hear the rattle coming from the Vanos. Every M54 engine I came across had this.

Sounds like this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAyQBiV5GbI

Your engine is still pretty low on miles but try this. Both my ZHP and 530i had this rattle which was gone once I installed rebuilt unit.
Other than annoyance, the bearing rattle shouldn't affect Vanos performance, but it's one of those things while you in there.

I always went for a rebuilt unit from Dr. Vanos simply because it saves so much time. It's around $150 more for Dr. Vanos vs the parts, but with a already rebuilt unit I can probably finish everything in about 3 hours whereas rebuild project would probably take half a day or more. You also need an impact wrench, swivel vise and soft vise jaws for the rattle repair.

But, if you have free time, want to do it yourself and know how it's done while saving a few bucks, go for it!

[BMWCurves]

I used the REIN kit. It even came with the 4 crush washers.

Actually, I have used REIN for all hoses on my car - power steering, VANOS, cooling system - and they have held up so far.

Great, thanks!


I've done few Vanos jobs and I'll jump in with some suggestions.

Get a torque wrench if you don't have it. I snapped 2 bolts my first time and wasted another hour running to the store for tools and getting them out.

VANOS piston bolt (11361748745) - get 2 of these as they are so easy to break.

VANOS oil hose/pipe washer (32411093596) - You don't have to get a new Vans oil line if the current one is not leaking. Just 2 crush washers.

I would also suggest you get Rattle Repair Kit. If you rev the engine between 1800 - 3000 rpm you should hear the rattle coming from the Vanos. Every M54 engine I came across had this.

Sounds like this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAyQBiV5GbI

Your engine is still pretty low on miles but try this. Both my ZHP and 530i had this rattle which was gone once I installed rebuilt unit.
Other than annoyance, the bearing rattle shouldn't affect Vanos performance, but it's one of those things while you in there.

I always went for a rebuilt unit from Dr. Vanos simply because it saves so much time. It's around $150 more for Dr. Vanos vs the parts, but with a already rebuilt unit I can probably finish everything in about 3 hours whereas rebuild project would probably take half a day or more. You also need an impact wrench, swivel vise and soft vise jaws for the rattle repair.

But, if you have free time, want to do it yourself and know how it's done while saving a few bucks, go for it!

Thanks for the info! I'll have to check, but I'm 95% sure my car doesn't have that rattle. If I went the Dr. VANOS route, I have a couple of questions:

Their website says it fixes the rattle, but it makes no mention of using parts to fix the issue like the similar anti-rattle kit from Beisan Systems. They say it is solved simply by using the new VANOS seals, similar to the Beisan Systems. So my question is: did you install the Beisan Systems anti-rattle kit into the rebuilt Dr. VANOS unit, or was the Dr. VANOS unit on its own sufficient to eliminate the VANOS rattle?
They say the core cost is $150 and current cost is $450, so total once my VANOS core is received and processed by Dr. VANOS is $300 out the door, correct?
Is it preferable to send them my unit and just allow for the downtime in terms of keeping the original parts? I'm more inclined to have my original VANOS than some other used unit, but maybe that's just being silly.

[slater]

Get a torque wrench if you don't have it. I snapped 2 bolts my first time and wasted another hour running to the store for tools and getting them out.

definitely a good idea as the bolts are really low torque spec.



I would also suggest you get Rattle Repair Kit. If you rev the engine between 1800 - 3000 rpm you should hear the rattle coming from the Vanos. Every M54 engine I came across had this.

weird. i've only heard it on one (out of maybe 10 M54s i've worked on), and fortunately it wasn't one of mine!

[slater]

They say the core cost is $150 and current cost is $450, so total once my VANOS core is received and processed by Dr. VANOS is $300 out the door, correct?

i think the kit from beisan systems is $60 - much cheaper. the job is not hard at all, just a little tedious. the last one i did was anando's, i think it was about 1.5hrs?

[Sreten]

From Dr. Vanos website.

"Each dual vanos is fully rebuilt using modified bearings along with high-performance Viton O-rings and Teflon seals that will not only eliminate the vanos rattle, but also restore lost power due to worn out internals."

"In addition, we rebuild the internal bearings to eliminate the 'marbles in a tin can' noises."

So yes, they use similar anti-rattle kit if not the same. I just bolted on the unit from Dr. Vanos and the rattle was gone. I used their Vanos 2 times, on my ZHP and 530i.

$300 + shipping out the door. $150 is core deposit that gets refunded to you once you send them your old unit. You will get a shipping label in the box for your old Vanos.

You'll have to check with them, but I think that's doable. Just like you said, more down time.



weird. i've only heard it on one (out of maybe 10 M54s i've worked on), and fortunately it wasn't one of mine!

I had a bunch of M54's when I was wheelin' & dealin' and all had that rattle, some more some less. I just stopped paying attention to it.

[Sreten]

i think the kit from beisan systems is $60 - much cheaper. the job is not hard at all, just a little tedious. the last one i did was anando's, i think it was about 1.5hrs?

I agree, seals itself are not that hard and if you just want to do that and not the bearings, then definitely get a kit from Beisan.

From Beisan - seals kit is $60, anti rattle bearings $60 plus Soft Vise Jaw Liners $15 = $135 total and satisfaction of doing it yourself. ;)

[BMWCurves]

I'll get one spare VANOS bolt I think. Doubt I'd snap both since I have a micro torque wrench on hand.


i think the kit from beisan systems is $60 - much cheaper. the job is not hard at all, just a little tedious. the last one i did was anando's, i think it was about 1.5hrs?

Yup, $60 for the seals kit. It would save me a good chunk of change compared to the Dr. VANOS rebuilt unit, and I'm not particularly worried about doing it myself. It's if I now think it's worth doing the anti-rattle kit, which I would much rather not do myself. Definitely something to think about.


From Dr. Vanos website.

"Each dual vanos is fully rebuilt using modified bearings along with high-performance Viton O-rings and Teflon seals that will not only eliminate the vanos rattle, but also restore lost power due to worn out internals."

"In addition, we rebuild the internal bearings to eliminate the 'marbles in a tin can' noises."

So yes, they use similar anti-rattle kit if not the same. I just bolted on the unit from Dr. Vanos and the rattle was gone. I used their Vanos 2 times, on my ZHP and 530i.

$300 + shipping out the door. $150 is core deposit that gets refunded to you once you send them your old unit. You will get a shipping label in the box for your old Vanos.

You'll have to check with them, but I think that's doable. Just like you said, more down time.

Completely missed that :facepalm Appreciate you going to check the website yourself!

Some days I think I'm dyslexic, but can't be bothered to get tested. The ol' "I've made it this far..."

[Sreten]

I know you always go above and beyond with your ZHP and that's why I mentioned it.

It's not a must, it doesn't affect performance and if you don't have the rattle maybe you should leave it alone.
I was in the same spot as you and I did so much research on this subject when I was deciding what to do with my 530i that it drove me crazy.

My first auto ZHP had 117k miles and had this rattle. I decided to do just the seals and while you could feel improvement in performance, the rattle was still there.

For my 530i I decided to pull the trigger on Dr. Vanos. Just one of those things where I didn't want to think about it down the road and having to come back and do it again.

[BMWCurves]

Went for a 45 min spirited drive + some errands that required stop/start city driving. Not a hint of smoke. Despite that, the VCG and VANOS seals are now on the "near future" maintenance list


I know you always go above and beyond with your ZHP and that's why I mentioned it.

It's not a must, it doesn't affect performance and if you don't have the rattle maybe you should leave it alone.
I was in the same spot as you and I did so much research on this subject when I was deciding what to do with my 530i that it drove me crazy.

My first auto ZHP had 117k miles and had this rattle. I decided to do just the seals and while you could feel improvement in performance, the rattle was still there.

For my 530i I decided to pull the trigger on Dr. Vanos. Just one of those things where I didn't want to think about it down the road and having to come back and do it again.

Yeah, appreciate it. I went out and revved it slowly from idle up to 3500 RPM while parked. No rattle I could hear beyond the usual valve chatter. I'll probably just go with the seals only, but I would kick myself if it began to rattle a little while after I did the VANOS seals.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 56,326 miles

Installed a used UUC Corsa TSE3 catback exhaust
Part no. 14551-2-SS. Link to manufacturer's website: http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/corsa-twin-silencer-exhaust-tse3-for-01-05-e46-330--325-p84.aspx

After "helping" Daniel install his UUC TSE3 (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?13565-The-Scarlett-Thread-Daniel-NoVAphotog-s-Project-and-Maintenance-Thread&p=508105#post508105)) and hearing how good it sounded, I decided I'd look for one of my own. It wasn't high on my priority list since exhausts for our cars are usually quite expensive and don't offer a lot (if any) improvement in performance increases over the stock unit. However, just a few days after I began looking, I found what I thought was a used UUC Corsa TSE3 catback being sold on Craigslist by a guy at Mostly German Auto Recycling Inc near the Canadian border for a very good price (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=508670#post508670)). It came from a part out 330Ci coupe w/ 118k miles that was either a ZHP or a Canadian M-Sport from pictures, but couldn't confirm via VIN. The part out car had been rear ended but the exhaust looked okay. I decided the price was too good to pass up, so after talking with the seller and seeing photos, I purchased it despite probably not installing it until the summer.

The parts arrived mid-November and seemed to be in good shape (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=509808#post509808)). After inspection they were put away in storage. Fast forward to yesterday when the BMW exhaust gaskets arrived (part no. 18107502346), I decided to tackle the install. I had only planned to see if I could remove the bolts that connect the down pipe to the exhaust solely using PB blaster and if that didn't work I'd go to Home Depot and pick up a propane torch to heat those suckers.

I used two guides for the install:

Corsa's installation guide: http://corsaperformance.com/media/pdf/install/INS5132.pdf
This DIY guide: http://www.my330i.com/mod38.php

I got the car up on jack stands and soaked the four 15mm exhaust bolts with PB Blaster. I let it soak in for about 15 minutes and repeated this process two more times. I got out the breaker bar and gave the bolts some love. All four bolts came off without much trouble. The car being a PacNWer its entire life and only 56k miles definitely helped. From there I worked my way back, removing the 13mm bolts along the exhaust channel. I ended up leaving one of the cross brace bolts in the transmission housing because I couldn't quite get it out of the way. Not an issue, just odd.

Once I had all of the bolts off except the four rear 13mm bolts holding the rubber hangers in place (that hold the muffler), I put a jack underneath the exhaust near where the exhaust meets the down pipe. I removed the last four bolts and gently lowered the whole exhaust system down and slid it out from under the car. Looked to be in great shape:

http://i.imgur.com/X8EExH5.jpg

From there I pulled all of the UUC TSE3 segments out from storage and put them in the garage (it had been disassembled for shipping). Reassembly took some work. The female connection points had been clamped closed so they had to be bent back open so that the male portions of the exhaust could fit properly. Once they were all opened I liberally spread some Loctite C5-A/LB 8008 (copper-based anti-seize compound) on all mating surfaces and connected the parts together and then tightened the clamps most of the way down (they would need to be adjusted later). I had to transfer over the center brace and rubber components from the stock exhaust to the UUC exhaust which was simple enough. I had noticed earlier that the rear-most hanger looked bent, especially since the rubber hanger was bent (B is the position it arrived in, A is what looked correct to me) and had floated that question earlier to other members (link[/URL]):

http://i.imgur.com/9ta707J.jpg

I wouldn't know how it fit until I installed the exhaust and could test fit the muffler. So I basically worked in reverse order, first sliding on the two new BMW exhaust gaskets (part no. 18107502346) onto the down pipe exhaust bolts, then the exhaust, followed by the little u-bracket, and finally screwed on the nuts. Following that I attempted to install the muffler section. I found that the metal muffler hanger was indeed bent since the rubber hanger would not match up to the threads in the bumper on that side. I lowered it and bend it back into shape with a big ol' pipe wrench and the bar out of the floor jack for added leverage. I put it back up and screwed it into place with the help from my father.

Next I used the jack to lift the center section brace and secured the brace with the original bolts. Afterwards I torqued the exhaust nuts to spec (40 ft-lbs), followed by the same for the exhaust clamps. I did my best to shift the middle segment of piping so the spacing was equal between it and the two sections on either end. With the clamps torqued down, I installed the last cross brace, and inspected everything for clearance and appearance. I think everything looks right. There is one section where the exhaust might bump the heat shield. I might go back and see if I can hammer some of it out of the way, but it's not too big a deal. Shitty pic of it all installed:

http://i.imgur.com/eIXcaMG.jpg

All buttoned up and I gave it a start. My dad laughed. My reaction:

http://i.imgur.com/srkeP9R.gif

I didn't get the car off the jack stands because I plan to do a coolant flush today and am considering swapping out my transmission mounts for M3 ones I have on hand, so I didn't get a chance to drive it. I also didn't rev the engine much because I finished the install after 11 PM i.e. I didn't want to annoy the neighbors.

All said and done, not too difficult of an install. I was very lucky that PB Blaster and a breaker bar is all I needed for the exhaust bolts/nuts. It also definitely helped that I had my father to help me maneuver the stock exhaust out and the TSE3 into place. I still have to check for vacuum leaks.

I opted not to swap out my guibo or CSB because I didn't order the parts (which I use as an excuse because really I'm just being lazy). Not that my car particularly needed those parts replaced, just that I was already in there with the exhaust off.

Can't wait to drive this thing and hear it.

EDIT: First, a cold-start video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9x5j3U0KFM

Now that I've driven the car for a little while with the UUC TSE3 installed (with a GruppeM intake), here are a few of my thoughts so far (07/27/2017):

Start up: Start up is definitely louder than stock, and I'm sure it'll be even louder in colder weather. You could not make an inconspicuous get away in the middle of the night with this exhaust. After starting the car and warming up, the exhaust will become quieter at idle, almost stock. You can hear this in the above video.
Volume: The TSE3 is much louder than the stock exhaust. Above 2,500 rpm with any significant throttle input, you know you have a different exhaust. Oddly, to my ears, the volume sort of peaks at about 4,500 RPM and then sort of levels out above that. Just cruising along on flat ground at a constant speed, the exhaust is only slightly louder than the stock exhaust, similar enough not to forget you have a different exhaust. If you're going up an incline at highway speeds it is probably 10-15% louder than stock. At wide open throttle (WOT) though, it is loud.
Exhaust note: It is coarser, and somewhat less refined than the stock exhaust. That's not a negative necessarily, just depends what you're looking for in an exhaust note. It is a much deeper sound, almost a bark vs a higher pitched "whine" of the stock exhaust. Sounds racier.
Drone: Pretty much nonexistent. You hear the exhaust a little more than stock at highway speeds, but really not much and it does not drone in the classical sense. You're just a little more aware of the engine, mostly so if you're going up an incline as stated earlier.
Crackles, burbles, pops: I didn't notice this much on Daniel's exhaust when I rode in his car, but mine definitely pops and burbles and crackles when the engine is at very little or off throttle at low RPMs (<1,500 RPM). I noticed this most when the MPG gauge reads ~50 MPG, when the ECU is feeding the engine just little bits of gas to keep it going.
Weight savings: When installing the exhaust, it definitely weighed a little less than the stock exhaust, but how much I couldn't say. UUC states the TSE3 is "substantially lighter than the original exhaust" ([URL="http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/corsa-twin-silencer-exhaust-tse3-for-01-05-e46-330--325-p84.aspx"]link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=534228#post534228)), but I've never found literature that gives a numerical value to that claim. I'd guess maybe 20 lbs lighter than the stock exhaust at best.
Open vs. closed windows: I'm not sure if my "custom" added insulation to my car has really worked (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18663-E46-Coupe-Interior-Swap-and-Sound-Deadening-Guide&p=497473#post497473)) or if the cabin was that good at insulating sound to begin with, but the exhaust is much quieter with the windows rolled up than down. The TSE3 is still appreciably louder than the stock exhaust with the windows up, but the volume is not overwhelming or obnoxious, and sounds great under acceleration.
Current overall opinion: I'm torn, but it's growing on me and I'm becoming used to it. I love the sound, it's the right level of aggressive but not too unrefined. I like the crackles and burbles although it seems a little juvenile. The volume is what I am still having issues with. I'm not the type of person that wants an overly loud "look at me, bro" exhaust that makes people turn heads and think *look at this ass clown.* For the most part, this exhaust isn't that, but I do wish it were a little quieter in the lower RPMs, say below 3,000. I just don't enjoy being almost self conscious about the noise I produce, although I have yet to notice anyone really turn their head toward my car when I drive by, even when I'm driving moderately spiritedly. What's interesting is that so far I haven't told any of my friends that I've replaced the exhaust and not one of them have asked if something is different about the car. So for now, I'll keep it on. We'll see how I feel in the future.

[Sreten]

Good job and awesome details as always!

TSE3 is one of the best upgrades for a ZHP. It sounds so good. Worth every penny!
I had the light version and can't imagine having a ZHP without it.

[holyc0w]

Does the Corsa retain the "rumble" at lower RPMs? It seems to be more aggressive throughout the range, though I would like to hear it first hand.

[san]

Does the Corsa retain the "rumble" at lower RPMs? It seems to be more aggressive throughout the range, though I would like to hear it first hand.

You should've sat in BP's or my car at the reunion last year. To answer your question, I think the exhaust does have a rumble at lower rpm


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[az3579]

There is no rumble at low rpm, at least by my definition. There is, however, a deep bass when you blip the throttle. You do occasionally get some burble as well on decel, though it isn't consistent as to when. Usually when it's very hot out, and occasionally in the winter.

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[anandoc]

This is awesome!! I bet you can't wait to take the car off the jack stands and go for a spirited drive.

From all the videos I have watched online, I really want this exhaust for my ride one day...

[BMWCurves]

Good job and awesome details as always!

TSE3 is one of the best upgrades for a ZHP. It sounds so good. Worth every penny!
I had the light version and can't imagine having a ZHP without it.

Thanks! I finally got it off jack stands today and got to drive it a bit. Windows up it's definitely louder than before, but not that much louder in the cabin. Windows down though, and it screams. I can't decide if it's too much, but I figured I'd drive with it for a while to figure out how I feel.


Does the Corsa retain the "rumble" at lower RPMs? It seems to be more aggressive throughout the range, though I would like to hear it first hand.

It definitely has some rumble at low RPMs. At idle it's quiet, but below 2k it quietly rumbles, growls, and occasionally pops. You're right though, you have to hear it in person to really tell. YouTube videos don't do it justice since they're usually recorded on phones i.e. not great mics, and each one sounds a bit different. I think mine sounds different from Daniel's, which is the only other car I've heard with it in person.


You should've sat in BP's or my car at the reunion last year. To answer your question, I think the exhaust does have a rumble at lower rpm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed.


There is no rumble at low rpm, at least by my definition. There is, however, a deep bass when you blip the throttle. You do occasionally get some burble as well on decel, though it isn't consistent as to when. Usually when it's very hot out, and occasionally in the winter.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Yeah, I think definitions differ on "rumble." Exhausts are pretty subjective in general. What's far to loud for one is whisper quiet to another. But so far I agree with your assessment, especially on the intermittent burble that is not consistent.


This is awesome!! I bet you can't wait to take the car off the jack stands and go for a spirited drive.

From all the videos I have watched online, I really want this exhaust for my ride one day...

Yeah, I finally got it off this afternoon and took it for a drive. So far I'm loving it. It sounds so aggressive, but right.

Hopefully you'll find one soon!

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 56,326 miles

Installed E46 M3 transmission mounts
I ordered the transmission mounts (part no. 22322282340) way back last March but never got a chance to install them. I wish I had done them while I had the exhaust out last night, but c'est la vie. It wasn't too difficult. I generally followed this DIY:

http://www.bmw330ci.net/projects/transmounts.php

Instead of taking out the whole support brace with the transmission mounts, I took off the support brace first and then the mounts. It gave me more room to maneuver. Once I had the mounts out, I compared them to my M3 mounts and honestly, they're not very different than the stock ones that came with the car. The M3 mounts are slightly thicker top to bottom by about 2-3mm, but I chalk that up to compression over time. They also have about 1/2" longer thread than the stock mounts. Other than that, they seemed pretty much the same. I went and looked at RealOEM and compared part numbers (the ZHP part number is 22316799331), and on ECS, both part numbers fit an E46 330Ci and an M3, so I'm not sure what the difference is, really.

Old on the left, E46 M3 on the right:

http://i.imgur.com/CBehSd8.jpg

The transmission brace removed and the transmission supported by the floor jack. You can see the bolt I couldn't remove from the transmission that held the exhaust bracket in place. Shouldn't be an issue:

http://i.imgur.com/e2HwCse.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8J8oghU.jpg

I swapped out the parts and reinstalled without too much issue. Mostly just working around the exhaust to tighten down the transmission brace.

Coolant flush
The coolant was over two years old so I figured it was due. Simple enough, just followed this guide:

http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/coolant.php

After draining I replaced the crush washer on the engine block coolant drain plug (part no. 07119963200) and took my time filling the system with a little less than a gallon of BMW coolant (part no. 82141467704) and a little less than a gallon of distilled water until coolant came out the bleeder screw. Once that was done, I tightened up the top and took the car off the stands and took it for a 30 minute drive.

The car ran great, minus what I assume is some burnt oil I could smell from the leaking VCG. I had better order those parts (sigh). I turned on the 19.7 feature on the OBC so I could see the exact coolant temp. The temperature fluctuated between 93-98 degrees but never went above once warm. The exhaust was intoxicating. I didn't notice any real difference with the new transmission mounts, but maybe I need some more time to notice.

Overall, knocked off some more maintenance. Still more to go.

[az3579]

Guess you guys have very different definitions of 'rumble'. lol
I'm thinking of the vibration you get in the car...

[holyc0w]

Guess you guys have very different definitions of 'rumble'. lol
I'm thinking of the vibration you get in the car...

Like when going over a rumble strip?

I'm thinking of the deep low sound from startup. It lets me know when the car is ready at the shop.

[az3579]

Like when going over a rumble strip?

I'm thinking of the deep low sound from startup. It lets me know when the car is ready at the shop.
No, the rumble I'm referring to is the "vibration" you get from something like a V8 muscle car when at idle or slightly blipping the throttle.

Really hard to explain. lol

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[BMWCurves]

No, the rumble I'm referring to is the "vibration" you get from something like a V8 muscle car when at idle or slightly blipping the throttle.

Really hard to explain. lol

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I now know exactly what you're talking about.

[Johnmadd]

Nice detailed work here.Great job :thumbsup

[johnrando]

Great werk! Loved my TSE3 but just a tad too loud in a vert (for me).

[Sreten]

Take some videos of the exhaust sound. :)

[BMWCurves]

Nice detailed work here.Great job :thumbsup

Thanks!


Great werk! Loved my TSE3 but just a tad too loud in a vert (for me).

It's definitely not quiet, and I can understand it being too loud (especially in a vert). I'm going to keep it on for a while either way before I decide if I'm keeping it, right now I'm loving it.


Take some videos of the exhaust sound. :)

I'll do a cold start from the outside tomorrow! My iPhone's been giving me weird grief where it starts recording, I get in the car, turn it on, rev it, etc., and then I come out and it only records the last 2-3 seconds of video. Not sure what's up with that. I need to get some sort of GoPro setup to do any driving stuff though. My hastiness to do the TSE3 install messed with my own plans to do a comparison video of:


stock intake w/ stock exhaust
BMW Performance intake w/ stock exhaust
GruppeM intake w/ stock exhaust
stock intake w/ TSE3 exhaust
BMW Performance intake w/ TSE3 exhaust
GruppeM intake w/ TSE3 exhaust (current)

Maybe down the road...

[BMWCurves]

Topped the car's coolant off with distilled water. It was probably short only an ounce or two but I hadn't checked the level since I flushed the coolant.

Also topped off the oil which was down a bit from the last time I checked a week or two ago. I assume it's the valve cover gasket. I'll have to order parts...

[san]

Nice work!

I am so lagging behind on updating my project thread. I am planning to replace the vanos, vcg and spark plugs soon...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Good maintenance update. I loved my TSE3 (as I've said a hundred times on here)

[BMWCurves]

Quick crappy phone video of the car during a cold start with some light revving. You can hear the crackling toward the end of the video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9x5j3U0KFM


Nice work!

I am so lagging behind on updating my project thread. I am planning to replace the vanos, vcg and spark plugs soon...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You and me both, minus spark plugs


Good maintenance update. I loved my TSE3 (as I've said a hundred times on here)

Thanks! It's still taking time for me to get used to it. It's surprising how much quieter the exhaust is inside the car than outside or with the windows down.

[anandoc]

Quick crappy phone video of the car during a cold start with some light revving. You can hear the crackling toward the end of the video:



Sounds like crap bruh. Sell this PoS exhaust immediately!

[DeathTrap]

How much do you guess the TSE3 weighs compared to the stock exhaust?

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[BMWCurves]

Sounds like crap bruh. Sell this PoS exhaust immediately!

http://i.imgur.com/habnUWH.gif


How much do you guess the TSE3 weighs compared to the stock exhaust?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Not a clue. UUC's website says "substantially lighter" than the stock exhaust (link (http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/corsa-twin-silencer-exhaust-tse3-for-01-05-e46-330--325-p84.aspx)), but they give no numerical data. It did feel lighter, maybe 10-20 lbs less? But that's just a wild guess.

[BMWCurves]

I updated my original TSE3 install post with my current impressions (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=537109#post537109)). I'd be interested to hear what other TSE3 owners have to say in comparison to my thoughts:


Now that I've driven the car for a little while with the UUC TSE3 installed (with a GruppeM intake), here are a few of my thoughts so far (07/27/2017):

Start up: Start up is definitely louder than stock, and I'm sure it'll be even louder in colder weather. You could not make an inconspicuous get away in the middle of the night with this exhaust. After starting the car and warming up, the exhaust will become quieter at idle, almost stock. You can hear this in the above video.
Volume: The TSE3 is much louder than the stock exhaust. Above 2,500 rpm with any significant throttle input, you know you have a different exhaust. Oddly, to my ears, the volume sort of peaks at about 4,500 RPM and then sort of levels out above that. Just cruising along at a constant speed, the exhaust is only slightly louder than the stock exhaust, similar enough not to notice. At wide open throttle (WOT) though, it is loud.
Exhaust note: It is coarser, and somewhat less refined than the stock exhaust. That's not a negative necessarily, just depends what you're looking for in an exhaust note. It is a much deeper sound, almost a bark vs a higher pitched "whine" of the stock exhaust.
Drone: Pretty much nonexistent. You hear the exhaust a little more than stock at highway speeds, but really not much and it does not drone in the classical sense. You're just a little more aware of the engine.
Crackles, burbles, pops: I didn't notice this much on Daniel's exhaust when I rode in his car, but mine definitely pops and burbles and crackles when the engine is at very little or off throttle at low RPMs (<1,500 RPM). I noticed this most when the MPG gauge reads ~50 MPG, when the ECU is feeding the engine just little bits of gas to keep it going.
Weight savings: When installing the exhaust, it definitely weighed a little less than the stock exhaust, but how much I couldn't say. UUC states the TSE3 is "substantially lighter than the original exhaust" (link (http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/corsa-twin-silencer-exhaust-tse3-for-01-05-e46-330--325-p84.aspx)), but I've never found literature that gives a numerical value to that claim. I'd guess maybe 20 lbs lighter than the stock exhaust at best.
Open vs. closed windows: I'm not sure if my "custom" added insulation to my car has really worked or if the cabin was that good at insulating sound to begin with, but the exhaust is much quieter with the windows rolled up than down. The TSE3 is still appreciably louder than the stock exhaust with the windows up, but the volume is not overwhelming or obnoxious, and sounds great under acceleration.
Current overall opinion: I'm torn. I love the sound, it's the right level of aggressive but not too unrefined. I like the crackles and burbles although it seems a little juvenile. The volume is what I am still having issues with. I'm not the type of person that wants an overly loud "look at me, bro" exhaust that makes people turn heads and think *look at this asshole.* For the most part, this exhaust isn't that, but I do wish it were a little quieter in the lower RPMs, say below 3,000. I just don't enjoy being almost self conscious about the noise I produce, although I have yet to notice anyone really turn their head toward my car when I drive by, even when I'm driving moderately spiritedly. What's interesting is that so far I haven't told any of my friends that I've replaced the exhaust and not one of them have asked if something is different about the car. So for now, I'll keep it on. We'll see how I feel in the future.

[BMWCurves]

Purchased the following from FCP Euro in preparation for VCG and VANOS seals repair:

http://i.imgur.com/0Lr0RWr.png

Still need to purchase some RTV silicone sealant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/ref=ox_huc_add_on_msg_title_1?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER) and the Beisan Systems seals repair kit (http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html)

[anandoc]

Awesome! I guess you are tackling this job over the weekend? Let us know how it goes.

Also curious to know how the oil looks which drains off your VANOS unit when you are taking it apart. Mine looked pretty dirty for whatever reasons - although I had just had an oil change a week before the VANOS rebuild job.

[BMWCurves]

Awesome! I guess you are tackling this job over the weekend? Let us know how it goes.

Also curious to know how the oil looks which drains off your VANOS unit when you are taking it apart. Mine looked pretty dirty for whatever reasons - although I had just had an oil change a week before the VANOS rebuild job.

Not this weekend, but hopefully soon. I'm a cheapo and opted for the free shipping option from FCP Euro.

Is it necessary to drain the engine oil to do this job, or is generally not that messy and fine to just top off whatever's lost in the process?

[san]

Not this weekend, but hopefully soon. I'm a cheapo and opted for the free shipping option from FCP Euro.

Is it necessary to drain the engine oil to do this job, or is generally not that messy and fine to just top off whatever's lost in the process?

I didn't do it yet, but a friend of mine said he added about half a quart after he was done...


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[anandoc]

Is it necessary to drain the engine oil to do this job, or is generally not that messy and fine to just top off whatever's lost in the process?

Absolutely not required to drain the engine oil. Just have some spare rags lined up right below where the VANOS sits so that the little bit of oil that spills does not go on the belts. Just top up a bit of oil after the job. In my case, I didn't even do that and I was still fine.

What I meant in my previous post was, when I took the VANOS apart, the little bit of oil inside was very dirty...especially since I had just had a oil change the week before. I am curious if you see the same.

[BMWCurves]

I didn't do it yet, but a friend of mine said he added about half a quart after he was done...


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Perfect, all I needed to know


Absolutely not required to drain the engine oil. Just have some spare rags lined up right below where the VANOS sits so that the little bit of oil that spills does not go on the belts. Just top up a bit of oil after the job. In my case, I didn't even do that and I was still fine.

What I meant in my previous post was, when I took the VANOS apart, the little bit of oil inside was very dirty...especially since I had just had a oil change the week before. I am curious if you see the same.

Gotcha on the VANOS part. I'll let you know. The oil's relatively new, just over 1,500 miles on it although it is over a year old.

[ELCID86]

What did you buy the one year oil?! ;-)
Good luck on vanos. Not a bad job to diy.

[holyc0w]

I updated my original TSE3 install post with my current impressions (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=537109#post537109)). I'd be interested to hear what other TSE3 owners have to say in comparison to my thoughts:

Has your opinion settled a bit?

Start ups aren't exactly stealth with the stock exhaust either. I haven't noticed any cars with a louder start-up.

[BMWCurves]

What did you buy the one year oil?! ;-)
Good luck on vanos. Not a bad job to diy.

I gave my oil a top off and what's better than a friend for a gift?

Hopefully VANOS will be easy. I'm holding off though until all parts arrive and this ridiculous heat wave subsides (107F Wednesday and Thursday, apparently. And they say global warming doesn't exist :rolleyes)


Has your opinion settled a bit?

Start ups aren't exactly stealth with the stock exhaust either. I haven't noticed any cars with a louder start-up.

My opinion is about the same currently as what I said in that post. Regardless, I plan to keep it on for a while.

And the stock exhaust on a cold start isn't quiet, but this is appreciably louder.

[slater]

I'm holding off though until all parts arrive and this ridiculous heat wave subsides (107F Wednesday and Thursday, apparently. And they say global warming doesn't exist :rolleyes)

dang, that's hot for oregon...

[Sockethead]

I read you review of the TSE3. That's exactly the way I felt about it.. Not wanting to attract attention/ loud kid car but the more time I spent in the seat, the more I liked it. I just sounds really good.
There is no way to get around the loud startups though... Part of the noise canceling technology it uses. It has to build up some back pressure. It will be a bit louder on startups in the winter...

[BMWCurves]

dang, that's hot for oregon...

Yeah...I'm not looking forward to it. I checked weather around the world after I saw it...lemme just say I'm glad I'm not visiting Baghdad currently.


I read you review of the TSE3. That's exactly the way I felt about it.. Not wanting to attract attention/ loud kid car but the more time I spent in the seat, the more I liked it. I just sounds really good.
There is no way to get around the loud startups though... Part of the noise canceling technology it uses. It has to build up some back pressure. It will be a bit louder on startups in the winter...

The loud start ups don't really bother me. I just wish it were a few decibels quieter below 3,000 RPM under heavy throttle. Otherwise, I think I'd have few complaints. Maybe it crackles too much on that off-throttle, low RPM situation that often occurs through slower city driving.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 56,500 miles


Had the brake fluid flushed at Autobahn Motorwerks with ATE SL.6 brake fluid.
Had the mechanic give a second check of my exhaust install and looked for exhaust leaks - OK
Had the mechanic inspect possible oil leak from VCG. Confirmed weeping.

Question: The mechanic suggested replacing also the valve cover itself as well because it is plastic and warps with age (part no. 11127512839). Has anyone experienced this?

[Sreten]

From personal experience, I don't think it wraps with age, but it is made of plastic so it does get brittle over the years.

Just be careful when you take the valve cover off cause it will be stuck on there good. Once it's off, inspect the cover closely for any cracks or damage and if everything looks good, no need to replace it.

I've replaced many VCG so far and never had a problem, even on a X5 3.0 with 160k miles the valve cover was still good. Your car is very low mileage too so I wouldn't worry too much.

[BMWCurves]

From personal experience, I don't think it wraps with age, but it is made of plastic so it does get brittle over the years.

Just be careful when you take the valve cover off cause it will be stuck on there good. Once it's off, inspect the cover closely for any cracks or damage and if everything looks good, no need to replace it.

I've replaced many VCG so far and never had a problem, even on a X5 3.0 with 160k miles the valve cover was still good. You car is very low mileage too so I wouldn't worry too much.

Gracias, hombre.

I figured I'd chance it and just do the VCG and VANOS stuff, and if it starts leaking again, consider the valve cover.

[Sreten]

Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

[BMWCurves]

Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

Roger roger. Good advice!

[slater]

Question: The mechanic suggested replacing also the valve cover itself as well because it is plastic and warps with age (part no. 11127512839). Has anyone experienced this?

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?



Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy. :cheers

[anandoc]

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?




+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy. :cheers

Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine :thumbsup

[Sreten]

Good tip on the razor blade. On my last ZHP someone used a lot of sealant all around and it took some work to get everything off.

I personally never use a torque wrench for valve covers. I just tighten them down in alternating criss-cross pattern and you can feel with your hand when the nut hits the end and can't go further. But, there's nothing wrong in using proper torque specs. :thumbup

[BMWCurves]

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?

I have no idea the state of my CCV. My car has low miles as you know, but most trips are usually under 20 minutes so I assume it's not in the best condition.


+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy. :cheers

Preference on brake cleaner brand? I just realized our old can from the early 2000s recently emptied out.


Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine :thumbsup

So I've seen/heard/tasted(?). Although it's hard to trust a man who doesn't immediately swap a ready-to-go M54B30 engine into an available touring body. smh


Good tip on the razor blade. On my last ZHP someone used a lot of sealant all around and it took some work to get everything off.

I personally never use a torque wrench for valve covers. I just tighten them down in alternating criss-cross pattern and you can feel with your hand when the nut hits the end and can't go further. But, there's nothing wrong in using proper torque specs. :thumbup

Ah the old "tighten to won't-fall-off" ft-lbs of torque.

[Sreten]

I use a torque wrench for just about everything else.

They simply bottom out and come to a complete stop, if you tighten any more past this point will just rip the bolt off.
That's how most people end up breaking them by reading a wrong torque spec and over-torquing them.

[slater]

Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine :thumbsup

thanks dude! :cheers



I have no idea the state of my CCV. My car has low miles as you know, but most trips are usually under 20 minutes so I assume it's not in the best condition.

if you pull the plastic hose end off where it connect at the front corner of the VC, and have a peek inside.... that will tell you a lot. if there's mayo goop, you should replace. now, that said, it's summer and there likely won't be any, but it's worth a check.



Preference on brake cleaner brand? I just realized our old can from the early 2000s recently emptied out.

doesn't matter, really. whatever you can find at your FLAPs.



So I've seen/heard/tasted(?). Although it's hard to trust a man who doesn't immediately swap a ready-to-go M54B30 engine into an available touring body. smh

ha, oh man... nice one.

aaaaand to think i did have TWO M54B30's here ready to go in TWO Touring bodies! for shame.... hahahaha.



Ah the old "tighten to won't-fall-off" ft-lbs of torque.


They simply bottom out and come to a complete stop, if you tighten any more past this point will just rip the bolt off.
That's how most people end up breaking them by reading a wrong torque spec and over-torquing them.

yep, exactly. i think the torque spec is something like 7lb-ft or something, but they do hit that stopping point then - if you use new grommets then the wee about of torque will hold the VC down a lot better. :)

[danewilson77]

Gracias, hombre.

I figured I'd chance it and just do the VCG and VANOS stuff, and if it starts leaking again, consider the valve cover.I have 230K on mine with no warpage. Plus that VCG is pretty beefy and would still seal well with any small warping that may occur. I do not support his claim.

Sent from my S8+

[Sockethead]

When I did my valve cover gasket, I started torquing to spec but it didn't "feel" right so I did the rest by hand... That was 90k ago
FYI most ft pound torque wrenches can't accurately torque to a setting that low unless specifically design for lower settings

[danewilson77]

When I did my valve cover gasket, I started torquing to spec but it didn't "feel" right so I did the rest by hand... That was 90k ago
FYI most ft pound torque wrenches can't accurately torque to a setting that low unless specifically design for lower settingsThis. I typically use my calibrated left hand torque wrench on the valve cover.

Sent from my S8+

[BMWCurves]

if you pull the plastic hose end off where it connect at the front corner of the VC, and have a peek inside.... that will tell you a lot. if there's mayo goop, you should replace. now, that said, it's summer and there likely won't be any, but it's worth a check.

This guy?

30709

This is what it looks like in mine, there appears to be goop (sorry for the crappy phone pics):

http://i.imgur.com/gpOHsEj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ovp4cUF.jpg

I always assumed my CCV would be gross given the driving I do and that of the previous owners. I really don't want to do the CCV for a while, and when I do, I plan to do the pilot O2 mod or a catch can OR the CCV mod from G.A.S.


doesn't matter, really. whatever you can find at your FLAPs.

What is this "FLAPs" you speak of?



ha, oh man... nice one.

aaaaand to think i did have TWO M54B30's here ready to go in TWO Touring bodies! for shame.... hahahaha.

Doing the wife's first to work out all the kinks for yours? Good man.


yep, exactly. i think the torque spec is something like 7lb-ft or something, but they do hit that stopping point then - if you use new grommets then the wee about of torque will hold the VC down a lot better. :)

That's so little torque. New grommets will be used, so hopefully that'll help.


I have 230K on mine with no warpage. Plus that VCG is pretty beefy and would still seal well with any small warping that may occur. I do not support his claim.

Sent from my S8+

Great, thank you! Since I hadn't heard it anywhere online, I wanted to see if you guys had any experience with it. It appears my mechanic, a very good guy who hasn't tred to oversell me on anything, is overly cautious from his own experience (he said he's had three overly warped M54 valve covers that would not seal with new VCGs).


When I did my valve cover gasket, I started torquing to spec but it didn't "feel" right so I did the rest by hand... That was 90k ago
FYI most ft pound torque wrenches can't accurately torque to a setting that low unless specifically design for lower settings

What didn't feel right, too little or too much torque? And yeah, I have a smaller torque wrench but didn't realize spec is 7 ft-lbs


This. I typically use my calibrated left hand torque wrench on the valve cover.

Sent from my S8+

:rofl

[holyc0w]

Great, thank you! Since I hadn't heard it anywhere online, I wanted to see if you guys had any experience with it. It appears my mechanic, a very good guy who hasn't tred to oversell me on anything, is overly cautious from his own experience (he said he's had three overly warped M54 valve covers that would not seal with new VCGs).

Heard the same from a few mechanics (if it's warped the VC will still leak)

[az3579]

Great, thank you! Since I hadn't heard it anywhere online, I wanted to see if you guys had any experience with it. It appears my mechanic, a very good guy who hasn't tred to oversell me on anything, is overly cautious from his own experience (he said he's had three overly warped M54 valve covers that would not seal with new VCGs).


I have a feeling mine might be like that as well. My ex-BMW tech friend told me the same thing; he's had to replace a few valve covers before due to warpage. My VCG is newer (replaced late last year) yet I still see oil coming out from the side leaking onto the O2 sensor.

[ZHPizza]

CCV looks ok -- no mayonnaise. If you're feeling bold, you can blow into it and see if you hear it bubbling in the oil pan. That'll tell you if the little dipstick tube is clogged.

[slater]

This guy?

This is what it looks like in mine, there appears to be goop (sorry for the crappy phone pics):

I always assumed my CCV would be gross given the driving I do and that of the previous owners. I really don't want to do the CCV for a while, and when I do, I plan to do the pilot O2 mod or a catch can OR the CCV mod from G.A.S.

yep, that's the one. doesn't look horrible, but you definitely need to give it the beans, and take it for some extended drives.

to be honest, after gary @ G.A.S.' findings about too much vacuum applied the the crankcase (letting air and contaminants in through the rear main seal), i would be hesitant to do the catch can or "02pilot" mod without a vacuum regulator in place.

the G.A.S. CCV allows for slightly higher-than-stock vacuum levels. about 25% of what the catch can/"02pilot" mod will.



What is this "FLAPs" you speak of?

Friendly Local Auto Parts store. :)

[BMWCurves]

Heard the same from a few mechanics (if it's warped the VC will still leak)


I have a feeling mine might be like that as well. My ex-BMW tech friend told me the same thing; he's had to replace a few valve covers before due to warpage. My VCG is newer (replaced late last year) yet I still see oil coming out from the side leaking onto the O2 sensor.

Makes sense to me. I am just surprised I haven't heard much about it. Perhaps now that our cars are getting on 11+ years, more will start popping up. Hopefully not though.


CCV looks ok -- no mayonnaise. If you're feeling bold, you can blow into it and see if you hear it bubbling in the oil pan. That'll tell you if the little dipstick tube is clogged.

Nothing like a little mouth to mouth for my car, eh? To be clear, I should hear bubbling or no? I'm not particularly familiar with the CCV plumbing.


yep, that's the one. doesn't look horrible, but you definitely need to give it the beans, and take it for some extended drives.

to be honest, after gary @ G.A.S.' findings about too much vacuum applied the the crankcase (letting air and contaminants in through the rear main seal), i would be hesitant to do the catch can or "02pilot" mod without a vacuum regulator in place.

the G.A.S. CCV allows for slightly higher-than-stock vacuum levels. about 25% of what the catch can/"02pilot" mod will.

Interesting, I didn't know your position had changed on those mods you had done yourself! Do you know what kind of testing Gary did i.e. how does he know those mods produce too much vacuum at the crankcase?

Remind me, when is your G.A.S. unit going in?


Friendly Local Auto Parts store. :)

Ahhh...makes much more sense than what I had in my mind (Fucking Lazy Ass Parts(store))

[slater]

Interesting, I didn't know your position had changed on those mods you had done yourself! Do you know what kind of testing Gary did i.e. how does he know those mods produce too much vacuum at the crankcase?

he actually built a test rig for it - i think there's a video on his website. pretty cool. after seeing that.... yeah, i am intrigued for sure, and definitely more 'on the fence' about the catch can setup if left unregulated. the stock CCV is definitely still a steaming pile of dung for anyone living in a climate with temps that get below freezing.

the magic amount of vacuum required would be nice to know - enough to help those low-tension rings to seal better, but not enough to allow the RMS to be flexing enough to let air/etc in.



Remind me, when is your G.A.S. unit going in?

i would love to install it now, but i think i'm going to wait until the motor swap happens. we'll see. the M54B25 in the red Touring is using a crapload of oil right now, so i might do it soon just to see....

[ZHPizza]

Yep, should hear bubbling as you're essentially blowing into the oil pan. The valve in the CCV opens under vacuum from the intake manifold. I actually broke that hose when I was blowing into mine, but it was cooked in Florida for 10 years, so brittle af.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=274149&stc=1&d=1302596015

Excellent thread here (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5989795#post5989795) full of information and test procedures. Note that we do not have the vacuum line on our CCV's, but everything else is the same.

And here is Gary's test for too much vacuum (http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/m54_pcv_main_seal_page.php) that Peter was referencing.

Get to work, son!

[ZHPizza]

Side question: What was the difference between your OE door panels and the ones from the M3? Leather type?

[YoitsTmac]

Side question: What was the difference between your OE door panels and the ones from the M3? Leather type?

I've seen both. Yeah it's like leather vs nappa leather

[slater]

And here is Gary's test for too much vacuum (http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/m54_pcv_main_seal_page.php) that Peter was referencing.

thanks dude. i'm curious if we can run the M52 rear crank seal or not...

[BMWCurves]

You guys are invaluable :thumbsup


he actually built a test rig for it - i think there's a video on his website. pretty cool. after seeing that.... yeah, i am intrigued for sure, and definitely more 'on the fence' about the catch can setup if left unregulated. the stock CCV is definitely still a steaming pile of dung for anyone living in a climate with temps that get below freezing.

the magic amount of vacuum required would be nice to know - enough to help those low-tension rings to seal better, but not enough to allow the RMS to be flexing enough to let air/etc in.

Yeah, it sounds like the CCV is a very poorly designed solution from the numerous threads I've read about it. #HotGarbage

I wonder if Gary has done more testing to figure out a good range for proper vacuum. I assume the G.A.S. CCV solution is aimed at that range.


i would love to install it now, but i think i'm going to wait until the motor swap happens. we'll see. the M54B25 in the red Touring is using a crapload of oil right now, so i might do it soon just to see....

That's what I figured. Sigh...

http://i.imgur.com/EhqOqMe.gif


Yep, should hear bubbling as you're essentially blowing into the oil pan. The valve in the CCV opens under vacuum from the intake manifold. I actually broke that hose when I was blowing into mine, but it was cooked in Florida for 10 years, so brittle af.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=274149&stc=1&d=1302596015

Excellent thread here (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5989795#post5989795) full of information and test procedures. Note that we do not have the vacuum line on our CCV's, but everything else is the same.

And here is Gary's test for too much vacuum (http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/m54_pcv_main_seal_page.php) that Peter was referencing.

Get to work, son!

Thanks for that. Helps visualize both the plumbing and the actual issue at hand. To be clear, is that video supposed to show too much vacuum caused by some modification? Or a failing RMS? Because otherwise it shouldn't be sucking in the smoke under normal conditions, right?


Side question: What was the difference between your OE door panels and the ones from the M3? Leather type?

I've seen both. Yeah it's like leather vs nappa leather

Yup, leather type (Napa vs. Montana). Otherwise everything should be the same, and appeared so when I swapped my door cards (link to my interior swap DIY (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18663-E46-Coupe-Interior-Swap-and-Sound-Deadening-Guide&p=497473#post497473)). The used M3 door cards I bought came with H&K speakers which I'm not sure were standard on all M3s. I swapped my speakers from my ZHP door cards because the previous owners were a middle-aged couple, so the speakers probably had more life in them than the ones coming from an M3 owned by a 20-something year old mobbin' around with his "squad":

30712

#CallingTheKettleBlack

[slater]

I wonder if Gary has done more testing to figure out a good range for proper vacuum. I assume the G.A.S. CCV solution is aimed at that range.

not sure, but i did ask him about it the first time we talked about his CCV design. he said it does pull more vacuum than the stock CCV... if i remember correctly, something like 8-10inHg. a new, stock CCV pulls anywhere from 3-6inHg (a tired/clogged one will pull close to 0inHg, or worse - produce positive pressure - which equals blown gaskets), and a catch can with a standard PCV valve will be pulling around 15inHg. a HUGE difference.

so, yes, in short - i am very curious to see how gary's CCV performs!



Thanks for that. Helps visualize both the plumbing and the actual issue at hand. To be clear, is that video supposed to show too much vacuum caused by some modification? Or a failing RMS? Because otherwise it shouldn't be sucking in the smoke under normal conditions, right?

that video is showing what a catch can setup without a PCV would be doing - it's connected directly to intake manifold vacuum. introducing a PCV does limit vacuum somewhat, depending on the PCV - but not much.

M/E Wagner makes a super cool adjustable PCV valve, that i REALLY would like to try with my catch can setup. it's $129 though - if it works, it actually would put the catch catch setup on par cost-wise with the G.A.S. setup. and gary's is way cooler than mine! :cheers

[Tatarin]

Hey, wondering about the wheel and tire package.
What size and composition tire are you running? I like the "meaty" look of it.

[BMWCurves]

Hey, wondering about the wheel and tire package.
What size and composition tire are you running? I like the "meaty" look of it.

They're square Apex Arc8 17x8.5" ET40 wheels in Hyper Black finish, wrapped in 245/40R17 Continental ExtremeContact DW tires.

[BMWCurves]

All of my VCG, VANOS oil seals, and VANOS oil line replacement parts have arrived. Now I just need to read through the Beisan Systems guide a few times to get familiar and a cooler day to work.

Side note: For those of you that use a collapsable sun shade for your windshield, what do you use?

[webster]

I use the bav auto "ultimate" sunshade or whatever they call it. Works great. I can definitely notice a difference in cabin temps.

https://www.bavauto.com/catalog/product/view/id/179461/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=BM-24-R-325I-2003-356323&gclid=CjwKCAjwzrrMBRByEiwArXcw2wO8fngsVb7ENYr2btQb FSdC6T5tMREkFDheNVYOMmq4kDqU0fqjFhoCW28QAvD_BwE

[BMWCurves]

I use the bav auto "ultimate" sunshade or whatever they call it. Works great. I can definitely notice a difference in cabin temps.

https://www.bavauto.com/catalog/product/view/id/179461/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=BM-24-R-325I-2003-356323&gclid=CjwKCAjwzrrMBRByEiwArXcw2wO8fngsVb7ENYr2btQb FSdC6T5tMREkFDheNVYOMmq4kDqU0fqjFhoCW28QAvD_BwE

I've seen that and considered it. Unfortunately, the problem I'm foreseeing is that the coupe and sedans are slightly different in terms of their windshield (coupe is larger and more raked, I believe) so they require different sunshades or else the sedan version will be too short and fall over in the coupe.

Another option I considered is this, anyone familiar with them? Supposedly it is specifically made for each body type of E46.
http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/60A1228A0A0A2051710.aspx

I've been looking at these types since they collapse a lot smaller, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-17950-25-Inch-Sunshade/dp/B000H9QWH4/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502591298&sr=1-9&keywords=sunshade&th=1

[John in VA]

I have the Covercraft product for a number of my cars. There are different patterns, ex., with or without rain sensors. Not as compact as the fabric ones you linked to, but they both work well, depending on which style you prefer. I rarely have passengers, so just fold up the UVS100 and have it on the passenger floor.
Search eBay for UVS100 - you'll sometimes catch a bargain there.
https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/uvs100-custom-sunscreen.UV?gclid=CLjqz-Ck1NUCFdOCswod7dEBpw

[webster]

I've seen that and considered it. Unfortunately, the problem I'm foreseeing is that the coupe and sedans are slightly different in terms of their windshield (coupe is larger and more raked, I believe) so they require different sunshades or else the sedan version will be too short and fall over in the coupe.

Another option I considered is this, anyone familiar with them? Supposedly it is specifically made for each body type of E46.
http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/60A1228A0A0A2051710.aspx

I've been looking at these types since they collapse a lot smaller, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-17950-25-Inch-Sunshade/dp/B000H9QWH4/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502591298&sr=1-9&keywords=sunshade&th=1

I had a coupe and now a sedan and the sunshade fits both fine.

I've used those flimsy amazon kind and they're rubbish.

[BMWCurves]

I had a coupe and now a sedan and the sunshade fits both fine.

I've used those flimsy amazon kind and they're rubbish.

Interesting the BMW one fits both sedans and coupes. I've heard otherwise from a few people.

My parents have the flimsy ones and they work pretty well, but they bought them locally and I can't find them locally or online.

[ELCID86]

WRT sunshade. I think I got mine from AutoAnything. Shiny on one side...


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[BMWCurves]

Minor things:


Washed the car which it badly need.
Vacuumed and wiped down the interior which I hadn't done since I picked it up from storage in my friend's barn.
Swapped my BMW all weather mats for my carpeted mats.
Washed the BMW all weather mats and put away in storage.

Received my Orient Blue Metallic shark fin antenna. It has unused, original adhesive stuck on the bottom which I'd hate to tear away, but I think I have to in order to remove the actual antenna itself which I don't need. Then I need to figure out if I either want to stick it to my car with adhesive of some sort or with rare earth magnets separated by felt to keep it from scratching the paint underneath.

Also purchased a new ECS Tuning aluminum water pump pulley from the classifieds here to replace my original plastic one. Should arrive shortly. EDIT: came in the mail today.


WRT sunshade. I think I got mine from AutoAnything. Shiny on one side...

Great, thanks everyone for the input!

[san]

When do you plan on doing the vanos job?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

When do you plan on doing the vanos job?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure. Hopefully next week. I have a friend coming into town tomorrow so I have no real time for car maintenance until he leaves.

[anandoc]

Not sure. Hopefully next week. I have a friend coming into town tomorrow so I have no real time for car maintenance until he leaves.

Prioritizing so-called "friends" over the ZHP? Sigh...

[BMWCurves]

Prioritizing so-called "friends" over the ZHP? Sigh...

I know. Who needs friends anyways?

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 56,957

Had some free time today so I decided to replace my factory plastic water pump pulley with an aluminum one from ECS Tuning (ECS Tuning part no. 001977ECS03A, link (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/ecs-aluminum-water-pump-pulley-black/001977ecs03a~a/)) that I purchased from Ridgey (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20576-(Sold)-ECS-Tuning-Aluminum-Water-Pump-Pulley-New)).

The process was pretty straight forward:

Remove the three expanding rivets to remove the intake shroud
Remove the two electrical connections to the radiator fan on the passenger side of the fan assembly
Remove the T25 torx screw on the passenger side of the fan assembly and the expanding rivet on the driver's side of the fan assembly and then remove the whole assembly by pulling up
Loosen the four 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley
Pop off the dust covers on the two tensioner pulleys, one for each belt.
Remove the AC belt by releasing tension on the AC belt via a breaker bar with a T50 torx bit and turning clockwise on the tensioner pulley. Repeat process for the other alternator/water pump belt.
Remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley
Attempt to remove the water pump pulley but because it's seized to the water pump, slip and bang your hand and curse gods you didn't even know existed.
Don't be a wuss and muscle that stupid piece of good-for-nothing plastic water pump pulley off. Giant fuck you, chemical bonds.
Compare the old pulley with the new pulley. Cool. They're the same pulley basically (left: old, right: new)
http://i.imgur.com/ZIuvX6l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SIgSyQb.jpg
Put some anti-seize(ure) compound onto the back of the ECS aluminum water pump pulley and put everything back together. Note: water pump pulley bolts call for 10 nM or ~7 ft-lbs of torque. New pulley installed:
http://i.imgur.com/zMBVFzp.jpg
Realize you forgot to put the dust caps back on after you've put the last expanding rivet into the air intake shroud because you've been rocking out to some of Jay-Z's new album (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSkA61esq_c)
Repeat your litany of curses for your own forgetfulness.
Remove stuff to put the dust caps back on. Check everything is right this time.
Make like Chef Tony and BAM you're done.

Okay. Now onto some questions and then pics for all of you who I didn't bore to death.

When I installed my GruppeM intake, I never removed the air intake shroud thing. Is there any benefit to keeping it there vs. removing it? The funneled air is aimed sort of at the intake, but its rearward to the cone of the intake so I'm not sure it really does anything other than possibly providing a minor cooling effect to the intake at speed. Thoughts? Shroud installed vs removed:
http://i.imgur.com/d4lPf8f.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fHALkTB.jpg
I managed to find my lost headlight cover hiding down in the depths of the engine bay. Seems I didn't need to replace it after all :facepalm
http://i.imgur.com/CjuMvD5.jpg
I recently purchased a used OEM "shark fin" antenna because I thought it was painted Orient Blue Metallic but upon closer inspection it appears to be Monaco Blue. However, the difference is so slight that it's practically indiscernible. At any rate, I've always liked the look of the shark fin, while I know others do not. I removed the antenna that was inside (I'll save that info for another post) but now I have to figure out how to attach it to the car. There is 3M double sided tape, but I think I'd prefer a less permanent form of attachment such as rare earth magnets (a setup similar to this guy: link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z2WNOmQntM)). If I go that route, it seems Amazon has some 2x6mm ones for cheap. The question now is what sort of covering or layer of protection from scratching could I use that's thin enough to not make the fin sit up too high? I was contemplating finding some felt from a crafts store, but I'm open to anyone's suggestions.


The car with the fin:
http://i.imgur.com/wyb6KL4.jpg
The car without the fin:
http://i.imgur.com/miqC4jt.jpg
The car with the fin:
http://i.imgur.com/FxOrDQw.jpg
The car without the fin:
http://i.imgur.com/dlW9aGl.jpg

[ELCID86]

Jimmy Buffet.

[anandoc]

I have the ECS Tuning aluminum pulley in my car as well. Its pretty sweet!

I think you should get rid of the air intake shroud thing - it does not seem to have much effect on the Gruppe-M intake. Atleast on my Afe intake, the shroud actually routes into the intake housing so some air is actually getting scooped up and into the intake.

For the shark fin, why dont you use some velcro tapes? Or wait, is it magnetic? If so, just get some really thin felt/velvet tape from Michael's and use that in between the shark fin and the roof metal.

[BMWCurves]

Jimmy Buffet.

https://media.tenor.com/images/967e31b044c1004bc380cf9dc8d0cbf5/tenor.gif


I have the ECS Tuning aluminum pulley in my car as well. Its pretty sweet!

I think you should get rid of the air intake shroud thing - it does not seem to have much effect on the Gruppe-M intake. Atleast on my Afe intake, the shroud actually routes into the intake housing so some air is actually getting scooped up and into the intake.

For the shark fin, why dont you use some velcro tapes? Or wait, is it magnetic? If so, just get some really thin felt/velvet tape from Michael's and use that in between the shark fin and the roof metal.

I'd rather not tape anything to my car, I think I'm going to try out the magnets first.

[az3579]

Just make sure the magnet is strong as hell. If it's loose enough to move with a finger, you'll get dirt underneath there and when the fin shifts, it'll grind that dirt against the paint. At least if it's a super strong magnet (that requires some force to remove) you won't have to worry about it.

[BMWCurves]

Just make sure the magnet is strong as hell. If it's loose enough to move with a finger, you'll get dirt underneath there and when the fin shifts, it'll grind that dirt against the paint. At least if it's a super strong magnet (that requires some force to remove) you won't have to worry about it.

That's what I was thinking. I'm going with some rare earth magnets, hopefully they'll do the trick.

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 58,508 miles

Car is still slowly leaking oil that I attribute to the failing VCG. I really should get around to it and the VANOS, I've just been lazy as hell.

I also finally got around to installing PA Soft on my father's decade old IBM X60 since the laptop that used to have PA Soft was my 13 year old IBM X40 from high school kicked the bucket. I coded out my cold check for the front turn signal bulbs since they the LEDs I bought from Nate (Link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20192-FS-Badass-Amber-LEDs-for-facelift-coupe-turn-signals)) and they would sometimes flicker on start up. No longer (I think)!

Some quick questions for you folks. I cleared codes but these seemed to be persistent. Anyone know what they may be?

SRS
https://i.imgur.com/jr3lrwn.png

IKE
https://i.imgur.com/k7oyqIm.png

ABS
https://i.imgur.com/iIg6V8q.png

EDIT: some shitty phone pics from a nice fall drive yesterday:

https://i.imgur.com/alP4mfa.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nIjeN1C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KnLDMtI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TM8zZ1S.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/srFWKbJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7Wltl8v.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jr6mnuY.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 58,552 miles

This weekend I tackled my leaking valve cover gasket (VCG) and while I was in there I replaced my VANOS seals and VANOS oil line. The repair itself wasn't particularly difficult, but it was time consuming as I took my time and ran into a few hiccups. I used the following guides and videos to assist in the VCG and VANOS:

Valve cover gasket:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR_krqKVAAo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWgMrJcww_Y

VANOS seals:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eUVF6OLFFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2-tsoSONf4

VANOS oil line:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JauxplR_iKc

Parts purchased (part number, brand):

VANOS seals repair kit (#BS001, Beisan Systems)
VANOS gasket (11361433817, BMW)
Valve cover gasket kit from FCP Euro (11120030496KT, elring [OEM]) - includes the valve cover gasket (11120030496), valve cover gasket gromet (11121437395, x15), valve cover washer (11127838077, 15x), and valve cover oil fill gasket ring
VANOS unit fit bolt (11361748745, BMW) - unused
VANOS oil line (11361705532, Rein [OEM]) - includes four crush washers.
RTV silicone gasket maker (82194, Permatex) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Comments/pictures :
Getting the car backed up and ready for repairs. The garage does not have great lighting inside so I make do with sunlight for most things.

https://i.imgur.com/MUxleTn.jpg

I managed to snap two of the tabs on the plastic engine caps (11121726089), so I'll need to replace those.

The first issue I encountered was that the VCG would not budge from the engine head. It would not budge. I then quickly discovered that the putty knife was nowhere to be found, so I had to make a quick run to the hardware store to get one so I could separate the gasket from the head. It was a tough battle, and I realized why: once I got the gasket off, the gasket's rubber had fused with the metal. The VCG's rubber was incredibly brittle and left hardened chunks all over the place (see next picture). I fished around and found some pieces of the VCG that had snapped off and fallen into the area below the spark plug holes the cams.

https://i.imgur.com/RRSMrOg.jpg

I ended up using a shop vac jerry rigged with some narrow caliber tubing to see if I could suck up any plastic lost to where my fingers couldn't go. I didn't pick up any bits with the vacuum, but I think the engine will be fine. My only fear is that some chunk will clog up an oil return hole somewhere, so fingers crossed that doesn't happen.

To clean up the head I gently used a combination of my putty knife, trim removal tools, my fingernails, microfiber towels, and brake cleaner to get most of the old VCG off of the head. It was tedious work to say the least and took up a significant amount of time.

Once I had that cleaned up I removed the VANOS unit which wasn't too bad. I had purchased a spare "VANOS unit fit bolt," (the one that is counter threaded) because the Beisan guide said it was easy to strip, but I had no problems there. I placed down a lot of plastic bags and towels over my belts and basically anything below the VANOS unit, so no oil spilled on that area.

Once the VANOS was out I set about replacing the seals.

https://i.imgur.com/S5hG04u.jpg

Once I the VANOS unit disassembled, it was apparent that my seals were in need of replacement. There was significant play between both the piston and the VANOS unit intake/exhaust cylinders and the piston and the VANOS cover cylinders. I removed the old seals, taking care not to nick the piston with the knife which was not an easy task, especially for the second underlying o-ring. It was cold out so I had to heat up the outer teflon rings in some warm water before installing them. I found the smaller teflon rings more difficult to install without messing up the shape compared to the larger rings, but they were compressed to their proper shape via Beisan's fitting procedure.

One annoying aspect was that Beisan listed several additional parts you might consider replacing when performing the VANOS seals replacement, but did not list the VANOS cover gaskets, the ones that go between the VANOS unit and the intake/exhaust VANOS covers. I'm not sure they have individual part numbers or not, but other replacement kits (e.g. this kit from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/DUAL-VANOS-Ring-Repair-M52tu/dp/B00JMG9O1O)) do include those gaskets. I had to make do with reusing my old ones.

Reassembly and reinstallation of the VANOS was easy enough. I cleaned up the unit and the mating surfaces as best I could with brake cleaner and some towels. Next I replaced the VANOS oil line that looked to be in perfectly good shape but I was advised to do it while I was in there. It was simple enough to do, just there was no room to torque it down to spec so I just went by what felt right, plus there were crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt so I felt safe giving it some love.

https://i.imgur.com/zkutRcc.jpg

I removed the old VCG (so brittle!) from the valve cover, cleaned up the valve cover a bit, and installed the new VCG (so bendy!). I placed a small layer of RTV sealant (linked above) where the VANOS met the head and on all the corners of the half moon areas of the head, front and rear, and let it cure for a few minutes. Next I reinstalled the valve cover, taking time to torque down the bolts in a cross-star sort of pattern, using new rubber grommets and washers in the process.

The rest was just reassembly.

IMPRESSION:
The break in period is approximately 200 miles, but even with my short drive this evening the engine was much smoother when it first started up/was cold (my car would sometimes bog down or judder when it's really cold and at low RPM), and had noticeably increased low-end torque. It's not like I have suddenly 30 ft-lbs more torque, but enough to be noticeable. I had to drive my father's ZHP down to the hardware store for the putty knife, and I noticed that his car had more low-end torque than mine. Now my car feels like it has the same, if not more low-end torque than his car.

EDIT: After ~40 miles since the replacement I have noticed that I have to use less throttle input to get the car going, which I attribute to more low-end torque. The car was also approximately have a quart low on oil, which I topped off.

So overall, I needed to replace the VCG because it was leaking, but I am very pleased with the VANOS seals replacement so far.

[san]

Seemed like a lot of work. Must be glad to be done with it. My car with 167k miles is so down on low end torque that is almost embarrassing when I see other cars pull away from me at a stop light. I should get this done on my car ASAP but I’ve been saying that for about a year now. I should’ve replaced the vanos line too when I replaced the ofhg but I didn’t :facepalm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Yelkos]

Great write up William, Thanks for including all the links and part numbers.

[slater]

nice work, william! it feels good to knock out repairs like that - and as you can see, even though your car has crazy low miles, age still takes its' toll on rubber bits.

what kind of light do you have in the garage? are there any standard bulb sockets? i saw this sweet 3x LED light thing for a standard bulb socket in the latest BAVauto catalog... might be a good idea for an older garage (i would have bought them if i didn't already install 5 x twin-T8 flourescent fixtures ;)).

[holyc0w]

Nicely done!

[BMWCurves]

Seemed like a lot of work. Must be glad to be done with it. My car with 167k miles is so down on low end torque that is almost embarrassing when I see other cars pull away from me at a stop light. I should get this done on my car ASAP but I’ve been saying that for about a year now. I should’ve replaced the vanos line too when I replaced the ofhg but I didn’t :facepalm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This repair was not as much work as it sounds. A lot of the work is just tearing away at the engine so you can actually get to the VANOS. I'm quite slow when it comes to performing maintenance because I try and keep bolts and screws organized, double/triple check guides, take pictures of how the engine looks at various stages of tear down so I know how to put it back together, etc. If I did this again, I could probably knock it out in an afternoon. I'm very happy that I did it now though. If you've got loss of low end torque, this sounds like it might be a good way to try and improve it a bit for you. Plus, you don't even have to put the thing on jack stands, one of my favorite parts of the whole repair.

Also, the VANOS oil feed line is super easy to do if you are already in there. Just pop off the airbox and it gives you pretty good access to the lower banjo bolt if you can snake your arm around the power steering reservoir and such.


Great write up William, Thanks for including all the links and part numbers.

Thanks! I try and make a decent write up so I can remember what I did and what I used for future reference. If it helps someone else, all the better!


nice work, william! it feels good to knock out repairs like that - and as you can see, even though your car has crazy low miles, age still takes its' toll on rubber bits.

what kind of light do you have in the garage? are there any standard bulb sockets? i saw this sweet 3x LED light thing for a standard bulb socket in the latest BAVauto catalog... might be a good idea for an older garage (i would have bought them if i didn't already install 5 x twin-T8 flourescent fixtures ;)).

Thanks! Yeah, it feels good to put it all back together, crank the engine, and have it start up smoother than expected! I am acutely aware how time ruins these parts in my car, and my hatred of BMW plastic only grows with each and every repair.

The garage is my folks' and is lit by the garage door motor, a single incandescent bulb, and a lamp I stole from an unused bed room. I keep trying to talk my folks into better lighting, but no dice so far. I'm also trying to talk them into some QuickJacks so...

I had my eye on an LED lighting fixture from CostCo that's pretty cheap. We'll see what happens.


Nicely done!

Thanks!

[704sw]

The Costco LED fixtures (assuming you’re talking about the ones that look like fluorescent shop lights) are badass, and cheap at $30/ea. I put a few in my parents’ attic, and I’m very impressed. I will be putting 4-6 in the detached garage of the house I’m 99% buying by year’s end.

[Sockethead]

I was wondering how those were.... I have 8 double tube florescent lights in my garage now... are they the full fixtures or the replaceable bulb style that fit into existing fixtures?

[704sw]

I was wondering how those were.... I have 8 double tube florescent lights in my garage now... are they the full fixtures or the replaceable bulb style that fit into existing fixtures?

Full fixtures, if I remember correctly. It’s been about 2 years since I put them in. I think it’s basically two rows of LEDs under a diffused plastic lens. They plug into a standard receptacle instead of hardwiring, which has its pros and cons. In the new house I’ll crawl out in the attic over the garage, turn each existing fixture’s box into a 2-outlet receptacle, and hide the plugs above the ceiling. I can get 4 in the parking area, and 2 in the shop area without having to do any real electrical work.

William: you should ask Dane about the portable LED bar he has that hangs on the hood of the car. That thing was awesome.

[Sockethead]

I got the same hood light bar that Dane has... it is awesome!
I added 6 outlets to the ceiling in my garage for light fixtures... :)

William, they make a light bulb socket adapter that adds two outlets and retains the light bulb. You could get two florescent or LED fixtures and add them to your garage without having to do any wiring. This is what I did in my rental house....

[san]

I got the same hood light bar that Dane has... it is awesome!
I added 6 outlets to the ceiling in my garage for light fixtures... :)

William, they make a light bulb socket adapter that adds two outlets and retains the light bulb. You could get two florescent or LED fixtures and add them to your garage without having to do any wiring. This is what I did in my rental house....

Rob you should post a picture of your new garage!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

I was planning on it but it's only half done...

[704sw]

I was planning on it but it's only half done...

If I learned anything with my public school education, it’s that 50% rounds up.

[BMWCurves]

Quick update:

1. after driving the car for about 40 miles, the car still has improved low-end torque. It's not huge, but enough to be noticeable, especially when starting from a stop. I don't have to put as much throttle input to get the car moving.

2. I was also about half a quart low on oil. I topped it off, we'll see how my oil consumption goes in the next few weeks. I also need to change the oil soon.

3. Has anyone replaced their wiper blades through FCP Euro's lifetime warranty? If so, did you just buy a replacement and then mail back the old ones once you had the new ones on hand?


The Costco LED fixtures (assuming you’re talking about the ones that look like fluorescent shop lights) are badass, and cheap at $30/ea. I put a few in my parents’ attic, and I’m very impressed. I will be putting 4-6 in the detached garage of the house I’m 99% buying by year’s end.

These were the ones I was looking at a while ago: https://www.costco.com/4%E2%80%99-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

Are they the ones you have?


Full fixtures, if I remember correctly. It’s been about 2 years since I put them in. I think it’s basically two rows of LEDs under a diffused plastic lens. They plug into a standard receptacle instead of hardwiring, which has its pros and cons. In the new house I’ll crawl out in the attic over the garage, turn each existing fixture’s box into a 2-outlet receptacle, and hide the plugs above the ceiling. I can get 4 in the parking area, and 2 in the shop area without having to do any real electrical work.

William: you should ask Dane about the portable LED bar he has that hangs on the hood of the car. That thing was awesome.

Will do. I have a small one that is serviceable, but I've been thinking about getting a larger bar as well as one of those sitting work lamps like this: https://www.costco.com/Winplus-LED-Folding-Worklight-.product.100375504.html


I got the same hood light bar that Dane has... it is awesome!
I added 6 outlets to the ceiling in my garage for light fixtures... :)

William, they make a light bulb socket adapter that adds two outlets and retains the light bulb. You could get two florescent or LED fixtures and add them to your garage without having to do any wiring. This is what I did in my rental house....

Do you have a brand/model for the hood light bar and/or a link to where I could buy it? Definitely interested.

Those light bulb socket adapters also sound interesting, I had always wondered if those were a thing but never took enough effort to actually look into it.

[704sw]

These were the ones I was looking at a while ago: https://www.costco.com/4%E2%80%99-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

Are they the ones you have?

That’s them.

[Sockethead]

Here's the link to the underhood light. It gets 4.5 stars on Amazon. https://atdtools.com/80050

The light socket adapter is nothing special.... like $1.99 at Walmart

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/616sfQwB%2BLL._SX355_.jpg

[ELCID86]

Quick update:

1. after driving the car for about 40 miles, the car still has improved low-end torque. It's not huge, but enough to be noticeable, especially when starting from a stop. I don't have to put as much throttle input to get the car moving.

2. I was also about half a quart low on oil. I topped it off, we'll see how my oil consumption goes in the next few weeks. I also need to change the oil soon.

3. Has anyone replaced their wiper blades through FCP Euro's lifetime warranty? If so, did you just buy a replacement and then mail back the old ones once you had the new ones on hand?



These were the ones I was looking at a while ago: https://www.costco.com/4%E2%80%99-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain,-2-pack.product.100284402.html

Are they the ones you have?



Will do. I have a small one that is serviceable, but I've been thinking about getting a larger bar as well as one of those sitting work lamps like this: https://www.costco.com/Winplus-LED-Folding-Worklight-.product.100375504.html



Do you have a brand/model for the hood light bar and/or a link to where I could buy it? Definitely interested.

Those light bulb socket adapters also sound interesting, I had always wondered if those were a thing but never took enough effort to actually look into it.

Whoa. I️ like that. I️ have this portable flood light on a stand that is like a torch when it heats up! :-( this is now on my list... I️ replaced the two small lights in my double garage with two two-bulb fluorescent lights. They are better, but I’d like more light. I️ too envy the Dane light!

Oh, and nice job on the Vanos William. Glad you got it done and can feel some difference. It should get even better.
(Do we need (have) a lighting thread?!)

[704sw]

Here's the link to the underhood light. It gets 4.5 stars on Amazon. https://atdtools.com/80050

Oof, $140 for the ATD-80357. I’ll stick with my one Lowes until it dies lol. My wishlist is getting rather lengthy.

[BMWCurves]

Here's the link to the underhood light. It gets 4.5 stars on Amazon. https://atdtools.com/80050

The light socket adapter is nothing special.... like $1.99 at Walmart

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/616sfQwB%2BLL._SX355_.jpg


Oof, $140 for the ATD-80357. I’ll stick with my one Lowes until it dies lol. My wishlist is getting rather lengthy.

Thanks, mate! The hood light does give me a bit of sticker shock, but would probably be worth it in the end.


Whoa. I️ like that. I️ have this portable flood light on a stand that is like a torch when it heats up! :-( this is now on my list... I️ replaced the two small lights in my double garage with two two-bulb fluorescent lights. They are better, but I’d like more light. I️ too envy the Dane light!

Oh, and nice job on the Vanos William. Glad you got it done and can feel some difference. It should get even better.
(Do we need (have) a lighting thread?!)

Lighting is a necessary upgrade in my folks' garage. It's a bit of a struggle in there, especially with black walls.

And yeah, I'm interested to see how the car feels after the VANOS seals break in period.

[704sw]

Black walls, and a single bulb from the opener? Dude how do you get anything done?

[johnrando]

Great werk n write up

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Black walls, and a single bulb from the opener? Dude how do you get anything done?

Many many flashlights. And a disco ball.

[704sw]

Many many flashlights. And a disco ball.

https://i.giphy.com/media/3oEjHQOeg3YhQ8REZ2/giphy.gif

[danewilson77]

Excellent update and great work going on in here.

Sent from my S8+

[Sockethead]

Oof, $140 for the ATD-80357. I’ll stick with my one Lowes until it dies lol. My wishlist is getting rather lengthy.

That's the LED version. The Fluorescent version is under $100

[Whammy]

Mileage: 58,552 miles

This weekend I tackled my leaking valve cover gasket (VCG) and while I was in there I replaced my VANOS seals and VANOS oil line. The repair itself wasn't particularly difficult, but it was time consuming as I took my time and ran into a few hiccups. I used the following guides and videos to assist in the VCG and VANOS:

Valve cover gasket:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR_krqKVAAo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWgMrJcww_Y

VANOS seals:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eUVF6OLFFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2-tsoSONf4

VANOS oil line:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JauxplR_iKc

Parts purchased (part number, brand):

VANOS seals repair kit (#BS001, Beisan Systems)
VANOS gasket (11361433817, BMW)
Valve cover gasket kit from FCP Euro (11120030496KT, elring [OEM]) - includes the valve cover gasket (11120030496), valve cover gasket gromet (11121437395, x15), valve cover washer (11127838077, 15x), and valve cover oil fill gasket ring
VANOS unit fit bolt (11361748745, BMW) - unused
VANOS oil line (11361705532, Rein [OEM]) - includes four crush washers.
RTV silicone gasket maker (82194, Permatex) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Comments/pictures :
Getting the car backed up and ready for repairs. The garage does not have great lighting inside so I make do with sunlight for most things.

https://i.imgur.com/MUxleTn.jpg

I managed to snap two of the tabs on the plastic engine caps (11121726089), so I'll need to replace those.

The first issue I encountered was that the VCG would not budge from the engine head. It would not budge. I then quickly discovered that the putty knife was nowhere to be found, so I had to make a quick run to the hardware store to get one so I could separate the gasket from the head. It was a tough battle, and I realized why: once I got the gasket off, the gasket's rubber had fused with the metal. The VCG's rubber was incredibly brittle and left hardened chunks all over the place (see next picture). I fished around and found some pieces of the VCG that had snapped off and fallen into the area below the spark plug holes the cams.

https://i.imgur.com/RRSMrOg.jpg

I ended up using a shop vac jerry rigged with some narrow caliber tubing to see if I could suck up any plastic lost to where my fingers couldn't go. I didn't pick up any bits with the vacuum, but I think the engine will be fine. My only fear is that some chunk will clog up an oil return hole somewhere, so fingers crossed that doesn't happen.

To clean up the head I gently used a combination of my putty knife, trim removal tools, my fingernails, microfiber towels, and brake cleaner to get most of the old VCG off of the head. It was tedious work to say the least and took up a significant amount of time.

Once I had that cleaned up I removed the VANOS unit which wasn't too bad. I had purchased a spare "VANOS unit fit bolt," (the one that is counter threaded) because the Beisan guide said it was easy to strip, but I had no problems there. I placed down a lot of plastic bags and towels over my belts and basically anything below the VANOS unit, so no oil spilled on that area.

Once the VANOS was out I set about replacing the seals.

https://i.imgur.com/S5hG04u.jpg

Once I the VANOS unit disassembled, it was apparent that my seals were in need of replacement. There was significant play between both the piston and the VANOS unit intake/exhaust cylinders and the piston and the VANOS cover cylinders. I removed the old seals, taking care not to nick the piston with the knife which was not an easy task, especially for the second underlying o-ring. It was cold out so I had to heat up the outer teflon rings in some warm water before installing them. I found the smaller teflon rings more difficult to install without messing up the shape compared to the larger rings, but they were compressed to their proper shape via Beisan's fitting procedure.

One annoying aspect was that Beisan listed several additional parts you might consider replacing when performing the VANOS seals replacement, but did not list the VANOS cover gaskets, the ones that go between the VANOS unit and the intake/exhaust VANOS covers. I'm not sure they have individual part numbers or not, but other replacement kits (e.g. this kit from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/DUAL-VANOS-Ring-Repair-M52tu/dp/B00JMG9O1O)) do include those gaskets. I had to make do with reusing my old ones.

Reassembly and reinstallation of the VANOS was easy enough. I cleaned up the unit and the mating surfaces as best I could with brake cleaner and some towels. Next I replaced the VANOS oil line that looked to be in perfectly good shape but I was advised to do it while I was in there. It was simple enough to do, just there was no room to torque it down to spec so I just went by what felt right, plus there were crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt so I felt safe giving it some love.

https://i.imgur.com/zkutRcc.jpg

I removed the old VCG (so brittle!) from the valve cover, cleaned up the valve cover a bit, and installed the new VCG (so bendy!). I placed a small layer of RTV sealant (linked above) where the VANOS met the head and on all the corners of the half moon areas of the head, front and rear, and let it cure for a few minutes. Next I reinstalled the valve cover, taking time to torque down the bolts in a cross-star sort of pattern, using new rubber grommets and washers in the process.

The rest was just reassembly.

IMPRESSION:
The break in period is approximately 200 miles, but even with my short drive this evening the engine was much smoother when it first started up/was cold (my car would sometimes bog down or judder when it's really cold and at low RPM), and had noticeably increased low-end torque. It's not like I have suddenly 30 ft-lbs more torque, but enough to be noticeable. I had to drive my father's ZHP down to the hardware store for the putty knife, and I noticed that his car had more low-end torque than mine. Now my car feels like it has the same, if not more low-end torque than his car.

EDIT: After ~40 miles since the replacement I have noticed that I have to use less throttle input to get the car going, which I attribute to more low-end torque. The car was also approximately have a quart low on oil, which I topped off.

So overall, I needed to replace the VCG because it was leaking, but I am very pleased with the VANOS seals replacement so far.

I'm jealous you did the vanos. I've wanted to do it but felt a bit scared to mess with it.

[ELCID86]

Black walls, and a single bulb from the opener? Dude how do you get anything done?

It’s a black light.

[BMWCurves]

https://i.giphy.com/media/3oEjHQOeg3YhQ8REZ2/giphy.gif

Pretty much. Throw on some "S.O.S." (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0d27679i-X4) and get busy.


Excellent update and great work going on in here.

Sent from my S8+

Thanks, Dane!


I'm jealous you did the vanos. I've wanted to do it but felt a bit scared to mess with it.

https://i.imgur.com/Pf5LdLd.gif


It’s a black light.

31350

[Cadeez]

Glad to hear the Vanos went well! I was wondering how long it was going to take you to finally do it, guess I'm next up... I did it on my old ZHP, and all in all it went well but the VCG never sealed right after that. I had a little seepage from one of the lobes on the front. Not sure if I didn't torque it down enough or if I didn't use enough RTV. Did you use any RTV sealant on the front where the two Vanos lobes are? Sorry if you explained that in your DIY, I didn't scrub it super close.

[BMWCurves]

Glad to hear the Vanos went well! I was wondering how long it was going to take you to finally do it, guess I'm next up... I did it on my old ZHP, and all in all it went well but the VCG never sealed right after that. I had a little seepage from one of the lobes on the front. Not sure if I didn't torque it down enough or if I didn't use enough RTV. Did you use any RTV sealant on the front where the two Vanos lobes are? Sorry if you explained that in your DIY, I didn't scrub it super close.

I put a thin layer of RTV where the VANOS unit mates against the head, on the corner of each half-moon portion of the VANOS unit, and on the same on the rear half moon parts of the head, like this pic from Beisan's DIY:

31354

[Cadeez]

I put a thin layer of RTV where the VANOS unit mates against the head, on the corner of each half-moon portion of the VANOS unit, and on the same on the rear half moon parts of the head, like this pic from Beisan's DIY:

31354

That's what I did as well, maybe my VC got warped when I took it off, who knows. But that's the main thing holding me back form doing it, this car is as dry as a bone, I'd be so pissed if I did the Vanos and introduced a leak into my pristine engine bay.

[BMWCurves]

That's what I did as well, maybe my VC got warped when I took it off, who knows. But that's the main thing holding me back form doing it, this car is as dry as a bone, I'd be so pissed if I did the Vanos and introduced a leak into my pristine engine bay.

I had the same feeling except mine was leaking. I don't really enjoy fiddling around in my engine because I am not experienced with engine internals. That said, I'm glad I did purely because the VCG was so brittle that it needed replacement regardless that it was failing. It left so much junk on the head and around the spark plug holes. I can only imagine how much worse it would be with a few more years of heat cycling and drying out.

But now the low-end torque is definitely improved, as is engine vibration during cold starts.

[Sockethead]

Just think of what your oil pan gasket is going to be like...:eyetwitch

[slater]

Just think of what your oil pan gasket is going to be like...:eyetwitch

haha... but at least it's [mostly] metal. :)

[BMWCurves]

Mileage: 58,915 miles

Not much of an update, but I checked the little fins above the exhaust manifold and they're clean as when I wiped them down after I replaced the VANOS seals and VCG. It seems it was a successful job. A quick check of my dipstick says the oil level is holding steady as well :)

My car is filthy, but there's not a whole lot I can do about that since I park outside now. I'll wash it soon and apply some RainX while I'm at it that I purchased today. I've never used it, but now's as good a time as any.

Still to do:

R&R engine mounts with M3 engine mounts (in stock)
R&R side markers (to be purchased)
Decide on purchasing the Xtrons head unit that BP reviewed
Make an appointment in the spring to have a CQuartz ceramic coating applied to the car after paint correction.

There are other things to consider as well such as M3 front/330Cic rear sway bars and M3 gauge cluster, but they're on the back burner.

As a complete aside, my father's possibly going to pick up a mid-90s Jeep w/ a manual transmission as a winter beater so he can store his ZHP. Might be going up to Seattle this weekend to pick it up if the PPI comes back clean.