ZHP Alignment

[poke08]

I just took my car in for an alignment since I did some suspension bits and I have no idea what any of these numbers mean. Can anyone explain this sheet for me?

Thanks!

[ELCID86]

Have you read the other alignment threads here?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[poke08]

Have you read the other alignment threads here?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Currently doing that right now.

[ELCID86]

Good start. Did they use the "sport" setting? Doesn't say on the sheet (and I don't recall the specs OTTOMH).


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[ELCID86]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=321


http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4278

Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[danewilson77]

I just took my car in for an alignment since I did some suspension bits and I have no idea what any of these numbers mean. Can anyone explain this sheet for me?

Thanks!

Green is good, Red is bad. It looks like the only thing they had luck with on the fron was Toe. This is the way your tires sit, pointed in or out if you will, I think negative camber would look like a person walking with their feet opointed inward. Positive toe would be like walking like a duck. There isn't much camber adjustment up front unless they punch pins on the FSM's.

Rear is looking sweet.

My comments above are regardless of what specs they used in the computer (sport/non-sport/etc)

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment.gif (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment.gif.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/AlignmentCasterangle.jpg (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/AlignmentCasterangle.jpg.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment_camber.jpg (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment_camber.jpg.html)

[poke08]

Green is good, Red is bad. It looks like the only thing they had luck with on the fron was Toe. This is the way your tires sit, pointed in or out if you will, I think negative camber would look like a person walking with their feet opointed inward. Positive toe would be like walking like a duck. There isn't much camber adjustment up front unless they punch pins on the FSM's.

Rear is looking sweet.

My comments above are regardless of what specs they used in the computer (sport/non-sport/etc)

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment.gif (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment.gif.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/AlignmentCasterangle.jpg (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/AlignmentCasterangle.jpg.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment_camber.jpg (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maint%20and%20Misc%20II/Alignment_camber.jpg.html)

Alright so everything should be good then?

[danewilson77]

I'd be perfectly happy with that.

You could have probably had them "zero out" rear camber more to prolong tire life, if you don't track/autox.

"No flamesuit required"

[derbo]

I'd be perfectly happy with that.

You could have probably had them "zero out" rear camber more to prolong tire life, if you don't track/autox.

"No flamesuit required"

I would've been nitpick that the toe wasn't exactly the same on both sides but I nitpick. Reducing the toe in will reduce the tire wear more than the camber. I would suggest setting the toe closer to the 0 side next time if you don't drive that hard.

[poke08]

I'd be perfectly happy with that.

You could have probably had them "zero out" rear camber more to prolong tire life, if you don't track/autox.

"No flamesuit required"

Gotcha.


I would've been nitpick that the toe wasn't exactly the same on both sides but I nitpick. Reducing the toe in will reduce the tire wear more than the camber. I would suggest setting the toe closer to the 0 side next time if you don't drive that hard.

I was thinking the same at first too. The good thing is that I get unlimited alignments from Tire Plus for 3 years. Their alignment guy is really good and highly recommended in the area so for $99, I can't complain.

[derbo]

Gotcha.



I was thinking the same at first too. The good thing is that I get unlimited alignments from Tire Plus for 3 years. Their alignment guy is really good and highly recommended in the area so for $99, I can't complain.

BMW's factory alignment is meant for performance. Front toe-in improves straight stability. Rear Toe-in helps improve acceleration out of a corner. Too much of either will result in sluggish understeer. I personally think if you set your toe-in to the lower limit of the alignment settings (closer to 0) your tires will last a little longer.

[mmiller2002]

Mind you, this has been with my slightly lowered WRX, but I always asked for Zero Toe first, then max negative camber in front (rear wasn't adjustable) for performance handling street/track. It handled very well.

How would that prescription work for a ZHP with KW coilovers that I just bought? I plan to raise it up just enough to clear cement parking bumpers...

[derbo]

Mind you, this has been with my slightly lowered WRX, but I always asked for Zero Toe first, then max negative camber in front (rear wasn't adjustable) for performance handling street/track. It handled very well.

How would that prescription work for a ZHP with KW coilovers that I just bought? I plan to raise it up just enough to clear cement parking bumpers...

If you are doing track days, I would suggest 0 toe up front and factory toe in on the rear. It will help plant the car acceleration out of a corner and make the steering a little more responsive than stock front toe in.

If you are a racer, I suggest toe-out front, toe-in rear. :)

[poke08]

I just got back in from a drive and realized I'm still rubbing in the rears. I'm currently running 255/40/18s in the rear, will more negative camber alleviate the rubbing? I'm pretty sure it's rubbing on the wheel well liner and not the fenders since those are rolled. I was told to remove the liner but I'm not sure if that would affect the car in any negative way.

My BC BR coils are at max height btw

[danewilson77]

I would've been nitpick that the toe wasn't exactly the same on both sides but I nitpick. Reducing the toe in will reduce the tire wear more than the camber. I would suggest setting the toe closer to the 0 side next time if you don't drive that hard.
Two one hundredths of a degree? Very negligible imho. As a matter of fact, when the car settled off of the lift I bet it would change that much.

I understand what you're saying though. The mechanic could have gotten it perfect on the computer.

"No flamesuit required"

[LivesNearCostco]

First if you have rear spacers, get rid of them or go to thinner ones. Second, could try raising rear ride height by adding back spring pad, using thicker spring pad, or changing to different brand of rear height adjusters. Third, if the outside edge is rubbing on the fender liner, more negative rear camber should reduce or eliminate that. You went to -1.9°, which is fine, but you could go as much as -2.3° and still be within the spec range.

Finally, in the longer-run, get the correct size tires either 255/35/18 or 255/40/17 (0.3" smaller diameter than stock). Yours are one inch larger diameter than stock, so going to stock size would give an extra 1/2" clearance from the hub. Perhaps 235/40/18 would work--those are only 0.4" larger in diameter than stock size.


I just got back in from a drive and realized I'm still rubbing in the rears. I'm currently running 255/40/18s in the rear, will more negative camber alleviate the rubbing? I'm pretty sure it's rubbing on the wheel well liner and not the fenders since those are rolled. I was told to remove the liner but I'm not sure if that would affect the car in any negative way.

My BC BR coils are at max height btw

[poke08]

First if you have rear spacers, get rid of them or go to thinner ones. Second, could try raising rear ride height by adding back spring pad, using thicker spring pad, or changing to different brand of rear height adjusters. Third, if the outside edge is rubbing on the fender liner, more negative rear camber should reduce or eliminate that. Finally, in the longer-run, get the correct size tires either 255/35/18 or 255/40/17. Yours are one inch larger diameter than stock, so 1/2" taller from the center of the hub.

Perhaps 235/40/18 would work--those are only 0.4" larger in diameter than stock size.

Thanks! Say none of the methods work, will rubbing on the plastic fender liner damage the car or wheel?

[slater]

I would've been nitpick that the toe wasn't exactly the same on both sides but I nitpick. Reducing the toe in will reduce the tire wear more than the camber. I would suggest setting the toe closer to the 0 side next time if you don't drive that hard.

agreed, i am extremely picky too! i'd have them zero the toe and reduce negative camber in the rear, all else looks good.



Gotcha.



I was thinking the same at first too. The good thing is that I get unlimited alignments from Tire Plus for 3 years. Their alignment guy is really good and highly recommended in the area so for $99, I can't complain.


if you're getting an alignment tech that good for $99 for 3 years, you are fortunate! most times they are not good.

peter

[danewilson77]

Thanks! Say none of the methods work, will rubbing on the plastic fender liner damage the car or wheel?
Most likely no. But I have heard of the paint burning (heat)

"No flamesuit required"

[Dave1027]

agreed, i am extremely picky too! i'd have them zero the toe and reduce negative camber in the rear, all else looks good.

I'm now running +.1° toe and -.7° camber both front and rear and am really digging the stance, ride, steering and handling. Works well with my Conti DW tires.