Tackled OB

[zhpnsnv]

Decided to take 1.5 days and tackle this OB once and for all.

This car's paint is far from perfect. Lots of swirls and deeper scratches from PO using a california water blade. That said, very happy with the results. Couldn't touch the deeper stuff, but it's worlds better than it was. I think with more patience I could get more of the deeper stuff out, but for some reason this OB seems a lot harder to polish than the IR and TiAg I've had on other E46s.

Process:
- wheels (sonax)
- wash
- clay
- wash
- M105 with LC yellow pad on a DA @ speeds 5 and 6 - had to do a lot of passes on the trunk lid and some other areas. Still, didn't get everything out.
- menzerna super-intensive polish with LC white pad on a DA @ 5
- I use 4 inch pads because they're easier to maneuver and you don't get product all over the place.
- menzerna power lock sealant
- let menzerna cure over night, apply second coat
- optimum gloss enhancer QD on wheels
- poorboys tire shine
- black wow on black plastic
- stoner's invisible glass
- rainx
- 303 aerospace protectant in wheel wells

Did some basic interior stuff - leather, vacuum, etc...

I'm not good at taking before and/or during photos.

Before:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/9BB4157D-EF16-419C-94C6-91F807B62BE9_zpsqylqmefu.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/27F04FDB-369D-4EB9-A986-C39692BDD125_zpsdiwqbmvv.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/7560BD0B-3F1E-4FB7-AFD1-2094D6C91BD6_zpsc2pde8dd.jpg

During (after second polish):
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/E87F068C-6D35-4984-B9D9-992A23E348F4_zpsquf93kz5.jpg

Afters:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/2621FCCB-405A-4AE9-B6EF-BE8B78E5C31E_zpsvrcxwvkj.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/2883C99B-92EF-48FC-A232-7265796CDFED_zpslfa4vnvj.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/D20EC1A1-5BAE-45B5-B198-912BD0F76E5F_zpsra6bz5ve.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/36FD3263-A661-49CD-9565-0D6FA4E9C4FB_zpseaxetogf.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/mbcoops/325ci/EC1F2491-FABD-4850-AF8D-FE392CE4467D_zpsrz84hkeq.jpg

Note: If you use menzerna powerlock, make sure you get all of it off before applying the second layer! I have small pieces of residue trapped under the second layer! Guess I'll get them off in 4 months.

I also debadged it.

[ELCID86]

Beautiful! I need to do my car. Maybe after the weather cools a bit.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[Johnmadd]

Beautiful! I need to do my car. Maybe after the weather cools a bit.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

+1

[zhpnsnv]

Thanks guys. Definitely a lot of "zen" time!

[brettbimmer]

Nice werk Marc! She looks really good.

Sent from my pineapple under the sea.

[Oli77]

Questions, is M105 mequire's M105 cut compound?

Is menzerna powerlock applied by hand?

[az3579]

Is there any measurable benefit to 1) letting the powerlock cure and 2) applying a second coat? I currently do one coat and wipe it off immediately after I finish the panel...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zhpnsnv]

Questions, is M105 mequire's M105 cut compound?

Is menzerna powerlock applied by hand?

Yes, M105 is the cut compound. For this job, with the marring on this paint, I could have used a more aggressive compound and/or DA. As I said, I could have gotten it all out, but it would have taken all weekend.

I apply all wax/sealant by hand, though a lot of people apply by DA. I just prefer by hand.


Is there any measurable benefit to 1) letting the powerlock cure and 2) applying a second coat? I currently do one coat and wipe it off immediately after I finish the panel...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I did some reading on the product and came to a few conclusions. Wiping it off immediately doesn't give it a chance to "bond" to the paint, as sealants want to do (whereas wax sits on top of the paint). So the general consensus on the detailing boards is to let it sit on the paint for a while (some even let it sit an hour or more), then remove, then let that layer sit for 12-24 hours, then reapply.

The benefit of the second layer is entirely subjective. For me, it's another layer the weather has to work through to get to the clear coat. I don't think it changes the appearance of it at all. I used to put collinite insulator wax on top of the powerlock or whatever sealant I was using, but I wanted to try this out for once.

I definitely found that letting it sit on the paint before removing made it extremely easy to work with. Then the next day when I removed the second layer and found the small areas of first layer residue that I couldn't touch let me realize that this product actually layers, which makes me think it's protecting well. It's not scientific, but I've never seen it before.

[Oli77]

Thanks Marc, I am new to this and learning. Is DA an orbital polisher?

[az3579]

Well I did some reading on the product and came to a few conclusions. Wiping it off immediately doesn't give it a chance to "bond" to the paint, as sealants want to do (whereas wax sits on top of the paint). So the general consensus on the detailing boards is to let it sit on the paint for a while (some even let it sit an hour or more), then remove, then let that layer sit for 12-24 hours, then reapply.

The benefit of the second layer is entirely subjective. For me, it's another layer the weather has to work through to get to the clear coat. I don't think it changes the appearance of it at all. I used to put collinite insulator wax on top of the powerlock or whatever sealant I was using, but I wanted to try this out for once.

I definitely found that letting it sit on the paint before removing made it extremely easy to work with. Then the next day when I removed the second layer and found the small areas of first layer residue that I couldn't touch let me realize that this product actually layers, which makes me think it's protecting well. It's not scientific, but I've never seen it before.

Damn! I guess I'm gonna have to remove/apply again before the winter. Thanks!

[cakM3]

Looks great Marc!

[az3579]

Looks great Marc!

Agreed. OB is beautiful when freshly detailed. It shows when you put time and effort into it.

[zhpnsnv]

Thanks Marc, I am new to this and learning. Is DA an orbital polisher?

No problem! Ask whatever questions you want. I have a porter cable DA which stands for Dual-Action. It oscillates in various directions, which means you can't really burn through the paint with it. A straight orbital is more what the pros use - you can do amazing work with it, but you can also damage your paint beyond the point you're able to fix it. I got this PC probably 10 years ago -- nowadays there are tons more on the market that are more effective (griots garage, rupes, etc...). If I had to do it again, I'd just go to one of the online detailing sites and get a kit they put together, complete with the correct counter weights, backing plates, pads, etc...


Damn! I guess I'm gonna have to remove/apply again before the winter. Thanks!

Good luck removing it. Some guys did tests and found powerlock to be basically immune to chemical strippers. If you're not going to polish before winter, just apply another layer.


Looks great Marc!

Thankya!

[az3579]

Good luck removing it. Some guys did tests and found powerlock to be basically immune to chemical strippers. If you're not going to polish before winter, just apply another layer.


Claybar..... no?

[zhpnsnv]

Claybar..... no?

Not according to what I've read. But if you're all polished underneath, there's nothing wrong with just applying another layer.

[az3579]

Not according to what I've read. But if you're all polished underneath, there's nothing wrong with just applying another layer.

It is polished... the rough surface doesn't matter? Should it be claybarred anyway prior to applying another layer?

[zhpnsnv]

Maybe. I'm not an authority on the subject. I keep claying to only the times when I'm doing a full polish, because claying will definitely leave marring on the paint. You can't rub all that crap around, remove it, and hope for a perfect finish afterwards without polishing, no matter what the lubrication is.

Since you're polished, I'd either leave the one layer on and see what kind of durability you get, or I'd just add a layer. Unless you want to redo the entire thing claybar and all. But I would absolutely not clay the paint and then just add a last step product. Clay, in my mind, should always come right before polish.

[OtterEffect]

Looks fantastic! OB is such a pretty color. The final results definitely make it worth the labour (thanks for the inspiration).


Sent from my potato using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

Beauty!

[spoonerDee]

$20 bucks if you come do mine ;)

I've only washed my car once this summer. Just haven't had the time.