Kicker Hideaway Sub Install

[mLuMaN83]

I am very surprised at this sound this thing has! It sounds like a 10" at 200 watts. Fills the cabin with deeeep bass. I was worried that being an 8", it would just punch and not have much deep bass but it has more that I even need. Hits well too. If you want to add some bass to your sound system or replace you subwoofers, I don't think you can go wrong here. Keep in mind, sound is subjective, but for me, this thing is even more than I expected. I have the settings turned down extremely low and it sounds perfect. On top of the sound, it is a massive space saver. Another plus is the fact that everything you need for the install comes in the box. You don't need anything else. The wiring harness that they provide is everything you need. That is of course if you are using a factory head unit. If you have an aftermarket head unit then you need an RCA converter.

- Connect remote wire to harness by factory amp. (It's a white wire. There are two "2" white wires. Gotta find out which one is the right one because only one of them carries enough voltage.)

- Connect positive

- Connect ground

- Splice left and right sites into your existing subwoofer wires. Do this before the sub box and connectors. I am currently spliced into the amplified signal which is not the right way of doing this at the moment. Once I correct the situation, I will let you know what colors the wires that need to be tapped are.

Thats it!




In the middle of surgery. . .

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Ghetto rigged coil on subwoofer amp board.

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The finished product.

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Best of all, it fits into the cubby tray on the left no problem. The only thing needed is some sort of custom bracket to hold it in place in case of any spirited driving incident. I am going to go to home depot and find some way to make a cheap bracket to hold it in place. It needs to be removable as well because I need that extra space for my golf clubs. Need a solution so I can slide in in and out when needed. There are also other mounting options for the unit. It comes with a strap mounting solution as well as brackets to bolt to a flat surface.

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I am more than happy with this purchase. No complaints at all. Everything I was looking for and more. You can get these at your local Best Buy. That's where I got mine from. They had plenty in stock in store.

[mLuMaN83]

Wow.

[Oli77]

Not sure what is up with Newjack's answer.

I think you can take a line out signal (that means before the amp on your trunk above left wheel well) and connect to the kicker amp. That is assuming the kicker amp in the add you posted has a line in level input.

[cakM3]

I'd like to see how this sounds....


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[mLuMaN83]

Not sure what is up with Newjack's answer.

I think you can take a line out signal (that means before the amp on your trunk above left wheel well) and connect to the kicker amp. That is assuming the kicker amp in the add you posted has a line in level input.
I'm not sure either lol.

The unit comes with a plug an play harness. Power, ground, +/- left, +/- right, remote. Thats everything on the harness. I was going to just splice in and and plug it up.

I've done many head units, subs, and amps in the past but they were "typical" and this is, not so much. I was hoping I could receive the same signal from the amp for left and right subs as I could splicing to the wiring from the sub circuit board. Worst case scenario, I take this ghetto fixed circuit board and stick it up there near the factory sub location to ensure proper splicing. I may just do that. I am weary of cutting into factory wiring so close to the business end.


I'd like to see how this sounds....


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I know a guy who had one in his 4 door Tacoma and it was actually really good. Crap load of full deep bass. Sounded like a 10 on 200 watts. It's so small too which is what I like. I want to take up the least amount of real-estate possible. If I bolt this to the back of the seat, I can use my trunk as I always have. Even with the seats folded down, I can still slide large items in without interference. It's heavy duty as well. I would not worry about anything breaking while laying on top of the unit.

PS, Kyle only had the best to say about you brother. Loving the wheels and the CF trim. You cray. :cheers

[midlandtech]

Looks like a good space saving option. What speakers did you use to replace the stock doors and rear deck?

taptalk + Note 3

[mLuMaN83]

Rockord Fosgate P16S. Two sets. I had Kyle AKA (Static) help me out with the install. It needs to use the old brackets for the big ones and it needs custom brackets for the kids and tweets. Best to shoot him a PM. Not too hard. Just takes a bit of know how. The main thing is making new brackets for the tweeters and putting the old HK brackets onto the mid bass speakers.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P16-S-Component-Systems/dp/B008IB8RAS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1402459508&sr=8-2&keywords=rockford+fosgate+p16

[cakM3]

Kyle is the man when it comes to stereo upgrades. He helped me upgrade the stereo in my ///M. Awesome guy to work with. Just wished I was local to him :)

[Oli77]

But but but, you can't take a preamplifier signal from the head unit that is amplified by our amp and then splice that into a third amplifier. That is at least two amplifiers in series. And that circuit board looks like a filter to me. I would bypass that as I am sure the kicker has its own.

[mLuMaN83]

But but but, you can't take a preamplifier signal from the head unit that is amplified by our amp and then splice that into a third amplifier. That is at least two amplifiers in series. And that circuit board looks like a filter to me. I would bypass that as I am sure the kicker has its own.

Gotcha. I think what I am going to try to do is remove one of the speakers in the factory sub box and place the ghetto rigged circuit board inside the box. It is such a delicate fix that any sort of force or quick movement will cause the solder to break. I cant use the original metal casing that the circuit board fits inside because I had to use wire to reconnect the coil and it now sits sideways to allow room for the new wires. If your factory subs are working then this will be much easier.

Check those coils though guys. They break off from vibration. I was looking online for a replacement and turns out it acts as an amplifier. I can find used ones under $100. I may do this so I can have it bolted back correctly if I cannot figure out a better solution for the ghetto fix.

[mLuMaN83]

Check first post. It's done.

[ELCID86]

Wow. Nice job. Looks like it was made to fit there.
Would Velcro tape work? Some on the bottom of the amp and some on the grey trunk liner?




Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[Hornung418]

So this won't replace the factory subs?

Sent from my GS3.

[mLuMaN83]

Wow. Nice job. Looks like it was made to fit there.
Would Velcro tape work? Some on the bottom of the amp and some on the grey trunk liner?
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

I don't see why that wouldn't work if you wanted to keep it on the floor without bolting it down. I want to use that tray though and be able to remove it in an instant. I think I am going to get 2 "L" brackets, bolt them to the tray, and cover them with soft material. I can use the female side of some velcro I think. Put a few strips on the side of the unit as well. I am going to try to get this done on Sunday.

[mLuMaN83]

So this won't replace the factory subs?

Sent from my GS3.

Not if you don't want it too. You can keep your factory subs as well. Mine were blown so I just cut the wires and spliced in.

That means I am running this WITHOUT factory subwoofers. I am pleased!

[Hornung418]

My question is that if your speakers are blown...wouldnt you want to mount this unit in the stock location?

Sent from my GS3.

[mLuMaN83]

My question is that if your speakers are blown...wouldnt you want to mount this unit in the stock location?

Sent from my GS3.

I thought about that and still may do this in the future. The reason I did it this way is because I have that fixed circuit board and I needed a safe place to put it so it wouldn't break so I put it inside the factory sub box for the time being. Also, if you remove the factory sub box, you must relocate that little amp that is connected to the box. That would have to be placed up top somewhere as well. It was just much easier to put everything back to where it was and run the sub elsewhere. That was my situation. I don't see why you couldn't relocate the little factory amp thing up top with a bracket or 2 and put the sub up there. Like I said, if I buy another working amp box, I might relocate this to the top of the trunk. That little amp has to be there. It enables you to receive a speaker signal that has not yet been amplified. You splice in right before that unit.

[static667]

Didn't take you long to go for further upgrades....:biggrin

[mLuMaN83]

Didn't take you long to go for further upgrades....:biggrin

I had to get it. I am done with audio! Sounds great.

[Oli77]

So to recap, you spliced subwoofer output wires (from our stock amp) to the input of the kicker amp? Essentially cut the wires to the original subwoofers and directed them to kicker input. Easy!

[mLuMaN83]

So to recap, you spliced subwoofer output wires (from our stock amp) to the input of the kicker amp? Essentially cut the wires to the original subwoofers and directed them to kicker input. Easy!

I spliced the wires that plug directly into the factory subwoofers. I did not splice near the HK amp on the left. The factory subwoofers actually use there own little amp. It's located on the sub box. I spliced in right before that. Green/grey wires.

[Oli77]

I dig. http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1402620973&sr=8-3&keywords=kicker+hideaway+subwoofer this was going to be my move. Similar. Someone has it on this forum.

[mLuMaN83]

Yeah I looked at that one. After hearing what I have, I don't see any need for more bass honestly. Its dam good. Sound is subjective though. Some want the rear view mirror to shake to the point where they can't see out of it.

[mLuMaN83]

After doing a bit of thinking, I am in fact tapped into amplified signal. I was thinning in reverse. By tapping into the green/grey, you tap into the amplified signal. The better solution would be to tap into the wires that are before those and the little amp. They are blue and red or something. I need to figure that out.

When I get a chance, I am going to change this and remove the sub box all together and relocate the new sub to the top of the trunk. Maybe thats why it sounds so good LOL.

I will edit the original post.

[ELCID86]

I can't tell if you have folding seats. If not, I have seen some subs mounted to the back of the seat.


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[Oli77]

After doing a bit of thinking, I am in fact tapped into amplified signal. I was thinning in reverse. By tapping into the green/grey, you tap into the amplified signal. The better solution would be to tap into the wires that are before those and the little amp. They are blue and red or something. I need to figure that out.

When I get a chance, I am going to change this and remove the sub box all together and relocate the new sub to the top of the trunk. Maybe thats why it sounds so good LOL.

I will edit the original post.

That has been my concern all along. But I bet the kicker amp is smart and can tell the difference between line level and amplified level and adjust gain accordingly.

[mLuMaN83]

That has been my concern all along. But I bet the kicker amp is smart and can tell the difference between line level and amplified level and adjust gain accordingly.

Yeah. It sounds fine. Settings are way down low! It should be fine but I still may make the change so I can get that broken circuit board out of there and relocate the unit to the location of the old factory subs. Much better that way.

This is also helpful and describes where to splice if you are splicing from the factory amplifier.

https://audioforbmws.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/d110-e46s-subwoofer-installation-guide.pdf

[Tunes]

The hideaway has a variable crossover so you shouldn't have to use a coil to cross it over. Feed it a full range signal and dial in the freq for your application.
Great looking install, and the location is helping the output by loading in the corner. Be careful you don't tap into a signal that has seen a high pass crossover, then the Hideaway won't see any bass to play

Kenwood makes a similar product, a little smaller but not quite as much output