Defeated by the VANOS oil return

[Asiah119]

My vanos oil reline has been spitting oil for awhile and I finally made a trip to the Dealer for the line. Today is the day. I start pulling parts of of the engine to get access to the return line. Strike 1 I realize that I'm going to need to pull the manifold off. I keep pulling things off, usually in the wrong order. Strike 2 my hands are too big to squeeze between the manifold and the firewall to disconnect the fuel line. I fucked with that for probably 40 minutes. Strike 3 I notice that I don't appear to have the right sized crescent wrench to undo the oil return bolts.

Is it possible/plausible to do this w/o pulling the intake manifold off? Anyone have any experience w this to give me tips on disconnecting the fuel line?

[kayger12]

If we're talking about the same line you shouldn't need to pull the intake.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422843&highlight=diy+oil+feeder

[Avetiso]

No need to remove the manifold.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

19mm Banjo bolt and two crush washers per connection. No need to pull the manifold. However it's not that hard to get the manifold off with proper panel removal. Undo the DME side heat shield and the wiper motor plate with the two twist-to-pop rivets.

Hope this helps.

[Hornung418]

Fuel rail removal/disconnection is accomplished by snipping some zipties (aid of a mirror is suggested). The rail it self is connected to the line by a push to release connection. There are special tools, but it can be completed with out them.

Remember to release pressure from the rail via the Schraeder valve at the forward part of the rail. The rail will depressurize and make removing the hose easier.

There are four 10mm bolts holding the rail to the manifold. They need to be removed and then you need to work on the rail from each end. The injectors are held in by O-rings only at this point. They will need to be rocked out gently or you risk bending the rail. Ask me how I know...however you can source used rails cheap on ebay or parts pulls for cheap. Paid $20 shipped for my replacement.

You shouldn't have to do any of this, but I hope this helps you with the repair!!

[danewilson77]

I think he's talking about a different connection/line if he's referring to the firewall.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

I think he's talking about a different connection/line if he's referring to the firewall.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=11_2170&hg=11&fg=15

Part 15, no?

[danewilson77]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=11_2170&hg=11&fg=15

Part 15, no?

Yes. I suppose where he talks about squeezing his chubby whittle fingers between the manifold and "firewall" is where it threw me off.

I honestly don't think I've ever pulled the other side of that hose off.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Asiah119]

Yes, part 15, but also yes to Dane. It's the fuel line to the fuel rail that I cant get disconnected. And my fingers arent fat, its the palm of my hand that I can barely squeeze between the manifold and the firewall. Kayger, I'll give that a whirl, but honestly, it seems like just as much work as pulling the manifold off.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=13_0900&hg=13&fg=15
My problem is separating 11

[Hornung418]

Pull the rear HVAC cover and you will expose more room. Take a set of channel locks and press the fitting down into the hose to release it. See the psot above. What clearance do you need to undo the banjo bolts? You can move the power steering reservoir and unclip the return line that way.

Loosen the Oil filter cap to drain the oil from the hosing to minimize leakage from the OFH upon removal of the lower point.

Sent from my GS3.

[Smolck]

Wow, you guys take a lot of crap off to do a very simple task. Remove air box, reach under the manifold and undo the back side bolt with a 19mm socket (3/8 drive) and then unbolt the top connection. No need to remove the fuel rail, manifold, or anything else. Just did it a few weeks ago.

[danewilson77]

Wow, you guys take a lot of crap off to do a very simple task. Remove air box, reach under the manifold and undo the back side bolt with a 19mm socket (3/8 drive) and then unbolt the top connection. No need to remove the fuel rail, manifold, or anything else. Just did it a few weeks ago.

You guys? I thought you were one of us?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Avetiso]

You guys? I thought you were one of us?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Clan #catchcan. He is better than the rest of us. :rofl

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Naaaa... Just messing around.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

Just because I know how to tear into the engine bay doesnt mean I'd do it for this job. ;)

Sent from my GS3.

[Smolck]

You guys? I thought you were one of us?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I am. I just meant the people responding in the thread. You must be in a good mood, joker!

[danewilson77]

I was in a good mood. That's why I was poking you.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Smolck]

I was in a good mood. That's why I was poking you.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Friday, I am always happy!

[Asiah119]

Hah, so it continues. I was all set to start pulling parts off the car this morning and got to the tensioner when I realized I only have up to a t45. One of these days I'm going to do some work properly and make sure I have all of the tools I need before I start working.

[Smolck]

Hah, so it continues. I was all set to start pulling parts off the car this morning and got to the tensioner when I realized I only have up to a t45. One of these days I'm going to do some work properly and make sure I have all of the tools I need before I start working.

Removing the belt isn't needed for this hose either.

[Asiah119]

hah, my big hands and lack of finesse do though. I also picked up the housing gasket because, though the return line is obviously going bad, I might as well do both and make sure that I fix the problem.

[Smolck]

hah, my big hands and lack of finesse do though. I also picked up the housing gasket because, though the return line is obviously going bad, I might as well do both and make sure that I fix the problem.

Here is some good news if you go that route, the VANOS hose comes off while still being bolted to the VANOS hose. So all you have to do is unbolt the upper portion and remove the rest.

[Hornung418]

Here is some good news if you go that route, the VANOS hose comes off while still being bolted to the Oil Filter Housing. So all you have to do is unbolt the upper portion and remove the rest.

Fixed.

Sent from my GS3.

[JupiterBMW]

...the right sized crescent wrench...

I don't mean to sound like a dick or poke fun, but I have to admit, this part made me chuckle a bit... Perhaps the terms you use just aren't the same ones generally accepted...

A crescent wrench is a general term for an adjustable wrench, typically referred to as a 'crescent' wrench because of the company, Crescent Tool, that is known for perfecting the design.

Anyway, the irony is that you mentioned you didn't have the 'right size' which is funny, because they're adjustable, infinitely so within the range of each one.

Typically at work, if we see someone struggling trying to loosen/tighten a fastener with a crescent wrench, we'll typically joke that they have the metric crescent wrench, vs a standard one, or perhaps a left handed vs. right handed one.

At the end of the day, crescent wrenches shouldn't be used for small hardware... Ratchets/sockets or box end wrenches are best...

But, good luck with your repairs.

[LivesNearCostco]

This crescent wrench is two-way adjustable! (I do mean to poke fun)
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/160x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11266.jpg