PA SOFT: How to reprogram our temp gauge

[SoCalZman]

Found this over on E46 fanatics and thought it was very valuable here seeing as how our temp gauge is pretty useless. I will be doing this myself as soon as I learn how to code our cars. More or a history/business guy so I am not good at the hexadecimal stuff they are talking about in the thread.


Thread link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1013600

Main info:

Many e46 owners complain that the non-M coolant temperature gauge is practically useless given its wide buffer range (75ºC-115ºC) and high range settings. The 12 o'clock position represents the buffer range, which means that the needle will stay at this position when the coolant temperature is between 75ºC and 115ºC. This is problematic for at least a couple of reasons. Your needle will stay at the 12 o'clock position even if you have the all-too-common soft failing thermostat (See jfoj's excellent thread (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491) on this issue and related problems ). This was true on my wife's car, which ran in the 77-87ºC range without turning on the service engine soon light (SES). Secondly, an upper limit of 115ºC for the buffer range doesn't give the driver much time to shut off the engine in the event that it overheats. Given the relatively high failure rate of t-stats and other cooling system components on the e46, performing this revision can help avert catastrophe.

TerraPhantm has made it possible to reprogram the temperature gauge to behave in a more linear manner, which provides the driver with a more accurate representation of what's happening under the hood. It does so by setting the buffer range to 90-100ºC instead of the factory programmed range of 75-115ºC and also by adjusting the lower and upper ranges of the gauge. After you perform this modification, you'll know if you have a soft failing t-stat by simply looking at the gauge. You'll also have more advanced warning of overheating and, therefore, more time to shut the engine down. Furthermore, because the lower limit of the buffer range will be set at 90ºC instead of the factory preset of 75ºC, the driver might be less inclined to flog the engine before it reaches operating temperature. By all accounts, the baseline operating temperature for these cars is 95ºC.

TerraPhantm is responsible for most of the useful information that follows. Any errors are, of course, my own.

The first set of instructions that follows can also be found in this thread (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15455435):



But I could not find offset 0x34D (nor 0x340) in my EEPROM so I sent him a line that looked very similar:


0x0F0: OF 00 32 1F 4B 5A 73 5A 7C 94 7D A4 06 0E 1E 0F

From this, he deduced the following:




Factory 0x0F0: 0F 00 32 1F 4B 5A 73 5A 7C 94 7D A4 06 0E 1E 0F
Revision #1 0x0F0: 0F 00 41 1F 5A 5A 64 5A 6E 94 73 A4 06 0E 1E 0F

Worked like a charm. I used the values shown above, but you may want to play with upper range values depending on your driving style and operating conditions. Here's a chart that can help you do it (Added on 11/23):


Decimal 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140
HexaDecimal 14 19 1E 23 28 2D 32 37 3C 41 46 4B 50 55 5A 5F 64 69 6E 73 78 7D 82 87 8C

For example, if you want to eliminate the buffer altogether and make needle behavior in the upper range almost linear, here's another option (added on 11/23):


Factory 0x0F0: 0F 00 32 1F 4B 5A 73 5A 7C 94 7D A4 06 0E 1E 0F
Revision #2 0x0F0: 0F 00 41 1F 5F 5A 69 7C 73 94 78 A4 06 0E 1E 0F


---------------Bottom Hash Mark---Upper Limit of Blue---2nd Hash Mark--12 o'clock---3rd Hash Mark---Lower Limit of Red---Red (Maxed Out/Light On):
Needle Angle-----------ø0----------------ø31-----------------ø55---------ø90----------ø124--------------ø148----------------ø164--------------
T(Factory 0x340)------0-15ºC------------ 50ºC----------------60ºC----75-115ºC-----120ºC----------------125ºC---------------143ºC-------------
T(Rev. 0x340)---------0-15ºC-------------65ºC----------------75ºC------90-100ºC---105ºC----------------110ºC---------------120ºC----------
T(Factory 0x0f0)------0-15ºC-------------50ºC----------------60ºC----75-115ºC-----120ºC----------------124ºC---------------125ºC-------------
T(Rev. #1 0x0f0)----- 0-15ºC-------------65ºC----------------75ºC------90-100ºC---105ºC----------------110ºC---------------115ºC----------
T(Rev. #2 0x0f0)------0-15ºC-------------65ºC-------------75ºC-----------95ºC--------105ºC-------------115ºC---------------120ºC-------------
T=Temperature

The upper range is, of course, not observed, but we can assume that the needle will move accordingly.

*Take a mental note of the corresponding needle positions and temperatures in the chart above so that you know how to read the reprogrammed gauge, which will now be much more sensitive in the upper range. This is merely a result of the "new normal" gauge behavior that this modification seeks to achieve. Though the baseline operating temperature is 95ºC, the electrically controlled t-stat allows normal operating temperature to fluctuate in the 75ºC-113ºC range depending on driver input and operating conditions. For more details on how it works, look here (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15828549&postcount=286). As mentioned, the reprogrammed temp. gauge is advantageous because it will, among other things, help you recognize a soft failing and give you more time to shut off your engine if it overheats.

The following is a graphic of the factory vs. revision #1 temp. gauge courtesy of SilberVogel. His original post can be found here (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15933231&postcount=41). He has also attached a screenshot of his revision of offset 0x0F0 with PA Soft 1.4 in post #62 of this thread (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15935600&postcount=62).

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=541901&stc=1&d=1389300895


Here are step-by-step instructions with PA Soft 1.4
1) Click on IKE.
2) Click "Read EEPROM"
3) Hex editor functions are in the lower left hand corner. Click the floppy disk icon to save the factory loaded file onto your desktop as backup.
4) Make revisions from "factory" bolded values to "revised" bolded values shown above: Find the corresponding offset and move the cursor over the bytes to be revised. You can use arrow keys to move the cursor as well.
5) Click "Write EEPROM." Your cluster will flash and beep several times after completion -- and like magic, your gauge will now reflect more accurately what's happening under the hood.

To TerraPhantm, I send a big "thank you." If you're ever in Philly, I'll take you out for a beer, a cheesesteak and whatever else you want.



KMT_KENNLINIE (Coolant Gauge Curve)


2003(?)+ Clusters
E46 M3: 06 0F 3C 55 5F 69 73 00 10 2D 2D
Non-M: 06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D
Revised: 06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 73 00 10 2D 2D

2002(and others?) Clusters:
E46 M3: 0F 00 3C 1F 55 5A 5F 5A 69 94 73 A4 06 0E 1E 0F (hypothesized values)
Non-M: 0F 00 32 1F 4B 5A 73 5A 7C 94 7D A4 06 0E 1E 0F
Revised: 0F 00 41 1F 5A 5A 65 5A 6E 94 73 A4 06 0E 1E 0F





Non-M Default M3 Default Recommended non-M Function / Angle
0x0F (15ºC) 0x0F (15ºC) 0x0F (15ºC) Gauge Start (0º)
0x32 (50ºC) 0x3C (60ºC) 0x41 (65ºC) End of Blue (15.5º)
0x4B (75ºC) 0x55 (85ºC) 0x5A (90ºC) Center (Buffer Start) (45º)
0x73 (115ºC) 0x5F (95ºC) 0x64 (100ºC) Center (Buffer End) (45º)
0x7D (125ºC) 0x69 (105ºC) 0x6E (110ºC) Start of Red (79º)
0x8F (143ºC) 0x73 (115ºC) 0x73 (115ºC) End of Red or LED on?? (84º)
(note, last two temperatures appear to be different for early clusters)

M3 buffer is from 85º to 95ºC. Which is odd because the car comes with an 82º thermostat and it's rare that I can get it above 85º

115ºC might be a little aggressive to max out the gauge, but I figure the early warning would be good. You guys can tweak the values to your liking

[PirateZHP]

This is great! I don't understand how to do it... probably because I don't understand the programming aspect. But, if I can find someone to do this for me, I'll definitely have it done!

[ELCID86]

This is great! I don't understand how to do it... probably because I don't understand the programming aspect. But, if I can find someone to do this for me, I'll definitely have it done!

+1

[gmurphy]

Thank you this is good stuff!


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[derbo]

muust buy PA Soft..or if anyone want to ship theirs to me to use.. :)


nvm: I just bought one.

[SoCalZman]

muust buy PA Soft..or if anyone want to ship theirs to me to use.. :)


nvm: I just bought one.

You mean the plastic doodad that plugs into the OBDII port for programming the car? I have one. Wouldve brought it over to yah.

[derbo]

You mean the plastic doodad that plugs into the OBDII port for programming the car? I have one. Wouldve brought it over to yah.


I have the OBDII cable for BMW software, but I didn't have PA Soft. It's okay, it's not very expensive.

[terraphantm]

ZHP clusters come with newer software that deals with that curve a little differently, so you'll want to follow the instructions in the post below

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15455435

[kayger12]

Botond-- let me know when you're ready to code this. :)

[JupiterBMW]

I have PA Soft as well, and I'm going to look into this. I like the idea of having a more responsive coolant gauge as well, but didn't want to spend the money on the Coolant Snitch... Will post results if/when I get this accomplished..

[JupiterBMW]

BTW, Terra, you're always a huge driving force in these amazing electronic DIY/retro/fixes... Hats off to you man!

[SoCalZman]

ZHP clusters come with newer software that deals with that curve a little differently, so you'll want to follow the instructions in the post below

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15455435

In other words, what's posted from e46 fanatics is for pre facelift cars?

Do you think I should grab your post and add it to the end of the first post? We want to be sure that ZHP people code their cars correctly, after all.


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[derbo]

ZHP clusters come with newer software that deals with that curve a little differently, so you'll want to follow the instructions in the post below

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=15455435



Thanks Terra :D

[Lanister]

Sub'd. Thanks Terra!

[Fried_Chicken]

Wow, I didn't realize how little information the coolant temperature indicator provides.
Does the car provide any type of audible warning when faced with imminent overheating? I was under the impression it did, but how would I know?

Thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention!

[az3579]

I tried this yesterday and my values on the originally mentioned lines didn't match up at all. I'll check out the link provided for facelift cars and try that today to see if the values match up. If so, I'll be doing this today. :)

Thanks so much for this info... this will be extremely valuable when on track!

[SoCalZman]

I tried this yesterday and my values on the originally mentioned lines didn't match up at all. I'll check out the link provided for facelift cars and try that today to see if the values match up. If so, I'll be doing this today. :)

Thanks so much for this info... this will be extremely valuable when on track!

Be sure to report back on the values and the gauge behavior after!


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[johnrando]

Wow, I didn't realize how little information the coolant temperature indicator provides.
Does the car provide any type of audible warning when faced with imminent overheating? I was under the impression it did, but how would I know?

Thanks for bringing this to everyone's attention!

Not really. Look up 'coolant snitch', which someone developed for that reason.

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[az3579]

Be sure to report back on the values and the gauge behavior after!


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I tried it today after reading the link provided by Terra. This works like a charm!
It's going to take quite a while to get used to the coolant temp gauge staying on the cold side for such a long time while warming up as it is showing the correct temps now. When you shut the car off (in the winter), very shortly, the needle moves down quite a bit, where before it would stay in the middle after starting the car back up because of that wide temperature range it previously had.

It is most definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I just hope I won't freak out when it starts to rise towards the right-side when I'm on the track in the summer!

[SoCalZman]

^^^ as someone in the original thread mentioned that can be an advantage as we are less likely to floor it if our temp gauges are still on their way to the middle mark.

glad to hear it worked. I am going to attempt this next week.

[gmurphy]

I need to do this. For now I just use the OBC to view my temp.


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[PirateZHP]

So... who is in nc that can do this for me? As well as a couple other programming things...

[derbo]

I'm stoked for this. I will try it when I get my pa soft. I usually use the menu setting to display the coolant temp menu 7 Something.

sent from Moto X Dev edition

[328ioc]

I'm stoked for this. I will try it when I get my pa soft. I usually use the menu setting to display the coolant temp menu 7 Something.

sent from Moto X Dev edition

Do you have a link for where you bought PAsoft?

I had to reinstall windows and now I can't find my CD to reinstall it. :-(

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[alexandre]

^Xcar360 has a link on the product page IIRC.


iP4S + TT2

[328ioc]

Ah ha. I think that was where I bought it last time.

Thanks.

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[SoCalZman]

I thought pa soft was free software...?

[328ioc]

Nope its about 30 bucks. Maybe 40.

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[gmurphy]

Is this the one? http://www.xcar360.com/bmw-scanner-1-4-0-bmw-scanner-bmw-diagnostic-bmw-scan-tool.html

[328ioc]

Yep.

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[terraphantm]

In other words, what's posted from e46 fanatics is for pre facelift cars?

Do you think I should grab your post and add it to the end of the first post? We want to be sure that ZHP people code their cars correctly, after all.


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There are at least 3 variants that I know of

Prefacelift (99-01)
Early "facelift" (02-03? My ZHP was July 03 and had the later variant... also note that this can include preface coupes)
Late facelift (03ish+)

The first post applies to the early facelift variant. The post I linked to applies to late facelift. I'm not sure how to do it on the 99-01 models, but I can figure it out if I get a couple dumps (ideally one M3 and non non-M). Also keep in mind that old cars may have newer clusters if it was ever replaced. Also if I get a few late 02 and early 03 dumps, I (or anyone else I guess) can figure out when the cutoff was. I suspect it was March 2003 since a lot of stuff changed at that time

[SoCalZman]

Thanks for the clarification!

[derbo]

I bought my pasoft from newegg

sent from Moto X Dev edition

[johnrando]

Glad to hear it worked for you BP. Looking forward to this.

[ELCID86]

I tried it today after reading the link provided by Terra. This works like a charm!
It's going to take quite a while to get used to the coolant temp gauge staying on the cold side for such a long time while warming up as it is showing the correct temps now. When you shut the car off (in the winter), very shortly, the needle moves down quite a bit, where before it would stay in the middle after starting the car back up because of that wide temperature range it previously had.

It is most definitely a worthwhile thing to do. I just hope I won't freak out when it starts to rise towards the right-side when I'm on the track in the summer!
Nice. Want to start a To Do list for the Mafia Reunion?? I'm in!

[alexandre]

Nice. Want to start a To Do list for the Mafia Reunion?? I'm in!

I have all these cables too so I'll be able to do some coding at the meet :)


iP4S + TT2

[ELCID86]

I have all these cables too so I'll be able to do some coding at the meet :)


iP4S + TT2
Awesome. I need to get my seat belt beeper turned back on too (I hope this is the problem).

[Crickett]

Wow; with this and recoding the speedo, I have got to get myself a BMW Scanner!

Does anybody have good info on what temp (or temp range) is “too cold” and “overheated” for our cars/engine? I know the general wisdom is “don’t flog the engine until it’s warmed up”, but what temp is “warmed up”? And on the other end, how hot is too hot/overheated/causing damage? If the t’stat allows 75–113°, perhaps <75° is “warming up” and >115° is approaching damage/overheating?

Personally, I think I would want to program my temp gauge to stay in the blue until it’s “warmed up” and go into the red once it’s a few degrees (~5–10°) above “normal” and trip the light/warning a few degrees before “overheated”.

[SoCalZman]

I think the point of this change is so that for warm up people won't flog the car until the needle is in the middle of the gauge. And for overheating, if it moves to the right at all that would be a very early warning compared to how out gauges are programmed now

[Pip]

You have to be careful when stating "warmed up". The M water temp is warm well before the engine is ready to rock n roll (oil temp). I know part of this is due to a thicker oil and not wanting to stress the engine before it is at the appropriate temp so the 330i might reach the warm temp sooner than the M, but I imagine it is still after the water temp reaches "warm".

[terraphantm]

You have to be careful when stating "warmed up". The M water temp is warm well before the engine is ready to rock n roll (oil temp). I know part of this is due to a thicker oil and not wanting to stress the engine before it is at the appropriate temp so the 330i might reach the warm temp sooner than the M, but I imagine it is still after the water temp reaches "warm".

There might not be as big of a difference on the non-Ms. They don't have an oil cooler, so the oil should heat up faster.

[derbo]

Does the M have a thermostat on the oil cooler?

[alexandre]

There are at least 3 variants that I know of

Prefacelift (99-01)
Early "facelift" (99-03? My ZHP was July 03 and had the later variant... also note that this can include preface coupes)
Late facelift (03ish+)

The first post applies to the early facelift variant. The post I linked to applies to late facelift. I'm not sure how to do it on the 99-01 models, but I can figure it out if I get a couple dumps (ideally one M3 and non non-M). Also keep in mind that old cars may have newer clusters if it was ever replaced. Also if I get a few late 02 and early 03 dumps, I (or anyone else I guess) can figure out when the cutoff was. I suspect it was March 2003 since a lot of stuff changed at that time

I just did this on mine (thanks a lot for the research by the way!). May 2003 and I have the newest cluster variant.

[SoCalZman]

I am the type to measure 3x before cutting once so in regards to reprograming my IKE I don't want to go further without confirming with someone that has done it already. Terra's instructions stated to find offset 0x34D and make the changes on that line. I don't think I understand what "D" means exactly. I see the values he is talking about start on 0x340 near the end and continue on 0x350. Is that what other people saw and made changes to those values? You can click the picture to make it bigger. EDIT: That is right isn't it....D = 13. So the values we are supposed to look at start start 13 spaces over. DUH.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/nazanuge.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/jy4a9ada.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/4a7e3aza.jpg

[derbo]

You got it right my man. The whole sequence is there.

sent from Moto X Dev edition

[SoCalZman]

I was able to program this mod into car this morning with my mac. Everything went smoothly. Edited the values, programmed, got the two beeps and things seemed ok. I just had to set the date and time again for some reason. I compared the picture to the gauge behavior while I drove the car and it lined up as expected. Instead of 78 (120 degrees) for the last value, I used 73 (115 degrees) . I figure if the car is pushing 115 degrees its about to die anyway. No use not having needle pegged by then.

[derbo]

For some reason I can't get my pa soft to work with my retina mbp. I'll have to debug this.

sent from Moto X Dev edition

[llll1l1ll]

I was curious: do I have to buy like all sorts of cables and stuff, or can I just buy that hookup thing and CD of software from Newegg (or wherever you guys got it)? I read up on creating a diagnostic computer and that seems like a LOT of effort.

[JupiterBMW]

Must get off my ass and do this... Tonight... I do it tonight... No more slacking... :facepalm

*edit* And this means I get to make "use" of my new Mafia X-mas first aid box (where all my coding cables are stored)... :biggrin

[derbo]

I was curious: do I have to buy like all sorts of cables and stuff, or can I just buy that hookup thing and CD of software from Newegg (or wherever you guys got it)? I read up on creating a diagnostic computer and that seems like a LOT of effort.

You need PA Soft. These instructions are for PA Soft not BMW diagnostic software. :)


Cmon Joop, do it already!

[JupiterBMW]

Cmon Joop, do it already!

I would be doing it right now, but its time for the lady and I to relax on the couch and spend some quiet time... watching the Bachelor... :facepalm

[328ioc]

I would be doing it right now, but its time for the lady and I to relax on the couch and spend some quiet time... watching the Bachelor... :facepalm

Dude. Shark tank is on. Much better show. Lol

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[JupiterBMW]

Dude. Shark tank is on. Much better show. Lol

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Clearly you haven't seen the chicks in the bikinis...

*Back on topic*

[328ioc]

Yes....still hunting for my pa soft CD so I can do this when my car is home.

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[derbo]

Yes....still hunting for my pa soft CD so I can do this when my car is home.

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Have you tried this?

http://www.bmw-scanner.com/?page=bmw-scanner_files_download&lang=eng

[328ioc]

I believe I did a while ago.

But I'll give it another shot.

Thanks Derek.

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[derbo]

If not,

you can try my copy I copied from the mini-CD.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1185457/hardware%20faulty%20BMW%20Scanner%20v140%20Install .exe

[llll1l1ll]

You need PA Soft. These instructions are for PA Soft not BMW diagnostic

Roger that. Just making sure!

[328ioc]

If not,

you can try my copy I copied from the mini-CD.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1185457/hardware%20faulty%20BMW%20Scanner%20v140%20Install .exe


Looks like it worked but unfortunately I don't have a car to test it out on yet.

[SoCalZman]

Can someone add PA SOFT to the title of my thread and move it to the coding sub forum? Thanks!


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[johnrando]

Done.

[wsmeyer]

I would be doing it right now, but its time for the lady and I to relax on the couch and spend some quiet time... watching the Bachelor... :facepalm

I like that show. My wife now freely admits that woman are fucking crazy.

[JupiterBMW]

I like that show. My wife now freely admits that woman are fucking crazy.

Agree on all accounts.


On topic, I actually did this reprogram and its a huge difference now in getting the car to warm up, which is good because I'm much more ginger for much longer now. :)

Also, on a couple of occasions, after doing extensive city driving, I jumped on the highway... Within a couple minutes the temp gauge actually dropped down a little bit... So, you can definitely see the smaller deadband of the new programming. Also goes to show how much cooler cars run on the highway versus around town!

:thumbsup for a good mod.

[wsmeyer]

I finally got around to messing with this. I changed the values and got the beeps after writing but then if I click read eeprom it takes a few seconds and says it's reading it but when it's done the original values are back.

[SoCalZman]

I haven't gone back into the eeprom to look at it again, but my temp gauge behavior has definitely changed and I confirmed that by using the hidden menu on the dash. Can you confirm the gauge behavior has changed?

[az3579]

Agree on all accounts.


On topic, I actually did this reprogram and its a huge difference now in getting the car to warm up, which is good because I'm much more ginger for much longer now. :)

Also, on a couple of occasions, after doing extensive city driving, I jumped on the highway... Within a couple minutes the temp gauge actually dropped down a little bit... So, you can definitely see the smaller deadband of the new programming. Also goes to show how much cooler cars run on the highway versus around town!

:thumbsup for a good mod.

It is interesting to see how differently the gauge reads. For example, when I'm on track and I'm pushing the car HARD through every corner and every straight, the temp gauge actually sits right at the first line above blue, around 75 degrees (the fact that I know the temp just by looking at it is AWESOME!). With normal driving, it's right in the middle at 90-100 degrees. Apparently when you push the car hard, the water pump works harder and flows more coolant to cool the engine. Who knew? :biggrin

This sure makes it easy to tell a cooling system failure if it reaches the middle or higher under track conditions as it's not really supposed to get higher than 3/4 based on the new temperature readings.

[ELCID86]

I'm admittedly a bit thick sometimes, but I can't figure out what line in the IKE eeprom to edit. A step by step pictorial would sure help.

[wsmeyer]

I'm admittedly a bit thick sometimes, but I can't figure out what line in the IKE eeprom to edit. A step by step pictorial would sure help.

You're looking for this sequence:

06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

Which is the last three entries on the line that starts with 0x340 and continues with the first 8 entries of line 0x350

Change those to:

06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 78 00 10 2D 2D

Click write and wait for the beeps

[Vas]

I'm admittedly a bit thick sometimes, but I can't figure out what line in the IKE eeprom to edit. A step by step pictorial would sure help.

Shawn, Figure this out and then you can program my zhp as well :)

[ELCID86]

You're looking for this sequence:

06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

Which is the last three entries on the line that starts with 0x340 and continues with the first 8 entries of line 0x350

Change those to:

06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 78 00 10 2D 2D

Click write and wait for the beeps

Got it! Thanks.

[TWong1200]

You're looking for this sequence:

06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

Which is the last three entries on the line that starts with 0x340 and continues with the first 8 entries of line 0x350

Change those to:

06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 78 00 10 2D 2D

Click write and wait for the beeps
This, for some reason, does not work for me. I've confirmed that those values are still codes into those lines. My temp gauge reads no different. Sits at about half way.

Any ideas? Thanks.

[SoCalZman]

It's supposed to sit halfway when it warms up still. It just reduces the buffer at the 12 o clock position and changes the temps on either side. You should notice the gauge taking longer to get to the warm up position.

[TWong1200]

It's supposed to sit halfway when it warms up still. It just reduces the buffer at the 12 o clock position and changes the temps on either side. You should notice the gauge taking longer to get to the warm up position.
Ah thanks. I do notice that it does take longer to reach the middle warm of the gauge. Thanks for clarifying!

[SoCalZman]

no problem. Look at the picture of the gauge on the first post. The top numbers are what it is now that you have reprogrammed it. The bottom numbers are what it was before.

[TWong1200]

Fantastic. Thanks again!

[baz11]

hmmm.. i've spent some time searching and still have a question:

Am i able to edit eeprom via NCS expert rather than using PASoft?

[derbo]

hmmm.. i've spent some time searching and still have a question:

Am i able to edit eeprom via NCS expert rather than using PASoft?

no.

[baz11]

Ok, thanks!

[ejp2fast]

Just did this mod and love the more accurate gauge. I wanted no buffer zone, more like a linear gauge, and did this code:18889

[WOLFN8TR]

Sweet. [emoji106]

[ELCID86]

Just did this mod and love the more accurate gauge. I wanted no buffer zone, more like a linear gauge, and did this code:18889

Thanks. I've gone in to do this a couple of times and can never seem to find the right string of digits. Need to try again.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[slater]

i did this the other day, definitely interesting to have 'correct data' - liking it!

peter

[Vas]

Followed the DIY on the first page and flashed the cluster on my zhp to the following string

BEFORE:
Code: 06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

AFTER:
Code: 06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 78 00 10 2D 2D


Thanks Terra for sharing this info.

[onaquest]

I just changed the values on my car. This thread and the E46 Temp Gauge Hex Generator app made it simple.

Mine had the facelift values.

[BMWCurves]

I'm finally getting down to this and I can't decide on values. The "E46 Temperature Gauge Hex Generator" program is helpful but I have a question. Is the program correct that you can't directly edit the two values on either side of the middle two values? For example, the stock values are:

06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D

Which corresponds to:

15 50 60 75 115 121 125 143

The bolded values are the ones you can't directly edit, but are affected by the values on either side of it (121 is affected by the red values, and the 60 is affected by the blue values). I ask because I would like to edit them directly but it doesn't seem like I can.

That said, I think the values I'm going to use are:

20 65 75 90 100 106 110 115

Which corresponds to the hex:

06 14 41 5A 64 6E 73 00 10 2D 2D

[UdubBadger]

wish i could comment but it over my head

[FungShui]

Hrm... When reading my EEPROM shows this string:

0x0F0: 7F 7F 7F FF 0A 01 96 23 12 19 64 19 03 F5 00 62

Has anyone else seen this series in when reading their EEPROM? I don't understand why mine looks so different.

Update: Found the fix. Search feature is my friend.

[Dual]

I am trying to implement the gauge reprogramming for my 2006 (facelift) car but am very confused by crossreferenced posts and the like. I'm not a PC user, but have rudimentary experience with PASoft.

What appears to be the best fit to my car appears here (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15455435&postcount=6), where TerraPhantm writes:

Read your cluster's EEPROM with PASoft. Open the resulting file with a hex editor and go to offset 0x34D. Take note of the following 8 bytes

Code:
06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D...

...I would change it to the following:

Code:
06 0F 41 5A 64 6E 78 00 10 2D 2D
That still leaves a small buffer of 90º - 100º which is an appropriate range for the car.

While most of the online discussion previous to this discussed direct editing within PASoft, TerraPhantm in this case opens a file saved from PASoft with a hex editor and leaves it at that: I can find nothing about how to resave the suggested edits and I have no experience with PC hex editors.

Guess I'm asking: was this work ever translated back into an edit that could be described and accomplished in PASoft? Many thanks in advance.

[nextelbuddy]

I am trying to implement the gauge reprogramming for my 2006 (facelift) car but am very confused by crossreferenced posts and the like. I'm not a PC user, but have rudimentary experience with PASoft.

What appears to be the best fit to my car appears here (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=15455435&postcount=6), where TerraPhantm writes:


While most of the online discussion previous to this discussed direct editing within PASoft, TerraPhantm in this case opens a file saved from PASoft with a hex editor and leaves it at that: I can find nothing about how to resave the suggested edits and I have no experience with PC hex editors.

Guess I'm asking: was this work ever translated back into an edit that could be described and accomplished in PASoft? Many thanks in advance.

actually the newer version of PASoft read the EEPROM and then displays it in the actual software and you can edit it and then choose the write command.
the HEX file it reads originally is saved into a folder in the PASoft application folder with the date and time stamp. its a BIN file. you can go there and just make a backup of that file to be safe but you should not need to actually edit it directly when PASoft will let you do that and then hit the write button.

[Dual]

I'm very sorry- I am not communicating well at all these days. I should have just said that I can't find offset 0x34D in that unit. There's an 0x340, but IIRC the 0x340 string doesn't line up at all with that mentioned above.

[Dual]

Bump

[BMWCurves]

I'm very sorry- I am not communicating well at all these days. I should have just said that I can't find offset 0x34D in that unit. There's an 0x340, but IIRC the 0x340 string doesn't line up at all with that mentioned above.

Sorry dude, wish I could help. If I was home I'd take a look. Someone will be along.

[terraphantm]

I'm very sorry- I am not communicating well at all these days. I should have just said that I can't find offset 0x34D in that unit. There's an 0x340, but IIRC the 0x340 string doesn't line up at all with that mentioned above.

Rows increase by 0x10 bytes, columns by 1 byte. So find 0x340 and go across 0xD (13) bytes.

[Dual]

Hi, terraphantm, and many thanks. I'm afraid I don't understand what you're saying there.

ON EDIT: is it possible to post a short DIY for owners of facelift cars and the current PASoft? This conversation has become very convoluted, at least for me as I try to figure out what to do.

[az3579]

I think the easiest way to do this is to just search for the string that's supposed to be there, which will highlight the characters you need.

Search for the following (applies to E46 non-M 2003+):
06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D
These are the stock values, so you should be able to find them based on the search tool when you have it loaded.

[ZHPizza]

Edit: I am an idiot sandwich.

[hcbeck2689]

Have you guys seen this thread? Looks a little more thorough. I haven't done this myself, so apologies for not being familiar enough to know if it's helpful or not.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1013600

It's in the first post


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

It's in the first post


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

...thank you chef...

http://i.imgur.com/tExQ9o4.gif

[Dual]

I think the easiest way to do this is to just search for the string that's supposed to be there, which will highlight the characters you need.

Search for the following (applies to E46 non-M 2003+):
06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D
These are the stock values, so you should be able to find them based on the search tool when you have it loaded.
that's a big help. Thank you! I will be out of touch for a day or so due to communication problems. Hopefully I will get to try things again soon. Many thanks

[Dual]

I think the easiest way to do this is to just search for the string that's supposed to be there, which will highlight the characters you need.

Search for the following (applies to E46 non-M 2003+):
06 0F 32 4B 73 7D 8F 00 10 2D 2D
These are the stock values, so you should be able to find them based on the search tool when you have it loaded.

That did it! I think I'm all set now. Many thanks to everyone.


iPhone/Tapatalk Pro

[az3579]

That did it! I think I'm all set now. Many thanks to everyone.


iPhone/Tapatalk Pro

Sweet!
Whenever I do that programming for people, I always just "Find" the stock values and modify it, instead of searching around for the correct line. I figure there isn't any other line of code in the entire EEPROM that would have the same exact values as that. :)