View Full Version : The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread
sillieidiot
07-30-2015, 01:45 PM
none of mines ever broke when i take the dash trims off. just take your time, don't get impatient. that's how you break things.
ELCID86
07-30-2015, 01:48 PM
Can't really call them inferior since they were designed as single use... and stay perfectly tight right up until you remove them. :)
Hmm. Perhaps.
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az3579
07-30-2015, 04:24 PM
none of mines ever broke when i take the dash trims off. just take your time, don't get impatient. that's how you break things.
Consider yourself extremely lucky. It's damn near impossible to get them off without damaging them. Nine times out of 10, at least one will come out of the dash, damaging them.
Usually the little ears get weak and break off. Other times, they'll get stuck on the pin, and taking it off of those is a PITA in itself.
danewilson77
07-30-2015, 04:52 PM
Hmm. Perhaps.
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+1
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sillieidiot
07-30-2015, 11:16 PM
Consider yourself extremely lucky. It's damn near impossible to get them off without damaging them. Nine times out of 10, at least one will come out of the dash, damaging them.
Usually the little ears get weak and break off. Other times, they'll get stuck on the pin, and taking it off of those is a PITA in itself.
yeah i never had that happen when i'm the first to open it. usually i encounter that shit when someone already took out the trims first and it's like partially broken already. before i just used the bmw screw driver and just wiggle it out. now i have trim tools so it goes by so much faster lol i still have to be more careful on my car than with other cars because i have CF trim.
az3579
07-31-2015, 03:16 AM
yeah i never had that happen when i'm the first to open it. usually i encounter that shit when someone already took out the trims first and it's like partially broken already. before i just used the bmw screw driver and just wiggle it out. now i have trim tools so it goes by so much faster lol i still have to be more careful on my car than with other cars because i have CF trim.
You should post a video so we can learn from you. lol
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Can someone please tell me the part number for the K&N filter for the Gruppe M intake? Or post a link? Thanks!
BMWCurves
08-06-2015, 09:02 AM
Does anyone have good or bad experience with Hella for electronics? I'm looking at ordering a replacement oil level sensor (mine's on the fritz) but the Genuine BMW part is something like $160 while Hella's is ~$70.
Can someone please tell me the part number for the K&N filter for the Gruppe M intake? Or post a link? Thanks!
Wish I could help, but I have no clue. Someone who knows will chime in soon, I'm sure.
stephenkirsh
08-06-2015, 10:28 AM
I don't know about hella specifically, but when I was researching oil Lvl sensor, everybody said go OEM on that one.
danewilson77
08-06-2015, 10:33 AM
I think Hella is solid. Let others chime in though
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When I replaced the sensor on my car, I just bit the bullet and got the OE one from thebmwminipartsstore.com
BMWCurves
08-06-2015, 11:47 AM
I don't know about hella specifically, but when I was researching oil Lvl sensor, everybody said go OEM on that one.
I think Hella is solid. Let others chime in though
When I replaced the sensor on my car, I just bit the bullet and got the OE one from thebmwminipartsstore.com
Hmm...people seem to like Genuine BMW. I appreciate the input. Has anyone had any issues with Hella or is this more of a "it's a sensor, go BMW for that to be sure" thing?
stephenkirsh
08-06-2015, 01:44 PM
Grab your flame suit and search e46f? Probably more people trying cheaper alternatives there than here.
Jconlin16
08-10-2015, 07:49 PM
Is there really a difference between the BMW strut tower brace and the OEM M3 strut tower brace?
BMW Strut Tower Brace
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES127298/
OEM M3 Brace
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES2795003/
Overall Strength?
NDubSki
08-12-2015, 07:10 AM
The appearance of my non ZHP E46 changed drastically. I miss you guys :(21032
God, I'm so ashamed of myself
BMWCurves
08-12-2015, 08:51 AM
Is there really a difference between the BMW strut tower brace and the OEM M3 strut tower brace?
BMW Strut Tower Brace
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES127298/
OEM M3 Brace
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Strut_Tower_Brace/ES2795003/
Overall Strength?
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone knows as well.
Jconlin16
08-12-2015, 10:17 AM
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone knows as well.
Sent them an email, I'll post their response.
fredo
08-12-2015, 10:25 AM
The appearance of my non ZHP E46 changed drastically. I miss you guys :(21032
God, I'm so ashamed of myself
That non-ZHP looks sharp !
Jconlin16
08-12-2015, 01:25 PM
Here's the response I got back from ECS:
"Other than the color, it looks like one comes with polished cap nuts and one doesn't. The more expensive kit also looks like it includes more hardware."
I ended up purchasing the silver strut tower brace and plan to paint it black.
BMWCurves
08-12-2015, 04:32 PM
Here's the response I got back from ECS:
"Other than the color, it looks like one comes with polished cap nuts and one doesn't. The more expensive kit also looks like it includes more hardware."
I ended up purchasing the silver strut tower brace and plan to paint it black.
The only real difference I spot is that the OEM M3 kit looks to have the strut tower reinforcement plates which should cost about $20 on their own. Let us know what you think once you have it installed.
Jconlin16
08-12-2015, 07:06 PM
The only real difference I spot is that the OEM M3 kit looks to have the strut tower reinforcement plates which should cost about $20 on their own. Let us know what you think once you have it installed.
Yep and I already have reinforcement plates installed, which is actually why I was inquiring about the differences. To purchase individually, you have to piece together the M3 brace, which totals around $305 and that doesn't include mounting hardware. So I decided I'll just paint the bar myself and save the $50. I'll post a review for sure!
NDubSki
08-13-2015, 04:09 AM
That non-ZHP looks sharp !
Thank you! Sold my 325ci (hellrot red ) for cheap just before ibjoined the Air Force. In retrospect, probably could've fixed everything and push her to 220000 miles but it was time for change. Considered for a moment on throwing BMW emblems on there, but then reality set in...
johnrando
08-13-2015, 08:42 AM
LOL. Nice non ZHP.
bshovers
08-20-2015, 08:46 AM
Someone local to me is selling used bimmerbrakes headers off a Zhp what's a good offering price?
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TigerTater
08-22-2015, 01:05 PM
Someone local to me is selling used bimmerbrakes headers off a Zhp what's a good offering price?
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Well they're 375 new if irrc. Somewhere south of that depending on condition.
TigerTater
08-22-2015, 01:15 PM
Got a shimmy at speeds >75., and it pulls very hard to the right at speed, as in I'm constantly pulling the wheel to the left. I think my tires are toast and need an alignment. But regardless I lifted the car and pulled the wheels to evaluate the suspension and don't end components for wear and anything being loose. Brake rotors spin freely no warping. All the ball joints intact no wiggle. Took some videos to show some of my concerns. First when the steering wheel is locked out as in not free, I can grab the steering coupling and it has some play in it...normal, or not? Second video is one of the the wheel rotation on the wheel. I don't think the wheel is bent, but there appears to be some out of true rotation when watching it at the 9 o clock location. Also pics of one of the tires. Thoughts? Thanks guys. https://vimeo.com/137024633
https://vimeo.com/137024652
2119221193
TigerTater
08-24-2015, 06:28 PM
Bumppp
UdubBadger
08-25-2015, 04:59 AM
Hmmmm
Tie rods loose?
GoingHAM mobile
BMWCurves
08-25-2015, 09:42 PM
I have never done brake stuff before, but should I get new brake pad wear sensors or can I reuse the old ones without any issues?
danewilson77
08-26-2015, 03:06 AM
I have never done brake stuff before, but should I get new brake pad wear sensors or can I reuse the old ones without any issues?
Reuse
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BMWCurves
08-26-2015, 07:24 AM
Reuse
Perfect, thanks!
TigerTater
08-26-2015, 09:09 AM
Hmmmm
Tie rods loose?
GoingHAM mobile
They don't appear or feel loose. They move on the ball joint but don't have any slack. Idk how to check internal rods.
ELCID86
08-27-2015, 08:26 AM
What wheels have the brake pad sensors?
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NoVAphotog
08-27-2015, 08:50 AM
What wheels have the brake pad sensors?
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Front driver's side, rear passenger side I think
Front driver's side, rear passenger side I think
That is correct
ELCID86
08-27-2015, 12:28 PM
Thanks guys. Need to yank those wheels and try to find the culprit...
BMWCurves
08-27-2015, 03:30 PM
Does anyone know what the part number is for the AC control panel in a car that came stock with navigation? All I can find is 64116956319, which I believe is the same as the non-navigation AC control panel. Are they the same part number?
BADCLOWN
08-27-2015, 03:51 PM
are you talking about the double din panel?
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES82727/
BMWCurves
08-27-2015, 04:25 PM
are you talking about the double din panel?
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES82727/
Yes and no, I guess I'm asking if the AC unit is the same part between navigation and non-navigation equipped e46's, just in a different location with a different bin panel
Yes and no, I guess I'm asking if the AC unit is the same part between navigation and non-navigation equipped e46's, just in a different location with a different bin panel
I am pretty sure it's the same...
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az3579
08-27-2015, 05:26 PM
Does anyone know what the part number is for the AC control panel in a car that came stock with navigation? All I can find is 64116956319, which I believe is the same as the non-navigation AC control panel. Are they the same part number?
Same exact part.
BMWCurves
08-27-2015, 06:18 PM
I am pretty sure it's the same...
Same exact part.
Cool, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
TigerTater
08-28-2015, 01:24 AM
Found my problem. Threw a belt the shop said. New tires on now. Conti DWS 21319
21320
Also taking it to a different shop for alignment as this shop said they did not have the special tool to adjust the toe in the rear...sigh.
BMWCurves
08-28-2015, 07:48 AM
Wow, that looks like basically unworn tread on the outside/inside(?).
ELCID86
08-28-2015, 07:54 AM
Wow, that looks like basically unworn tread on the outside/inside(?).
Ton 'O Camber?
TigerTater
08-29-2015, 08:49 AM
Yea my alignment was way off. Tone of toe was right. Got it done right now.
ELCID86
08-29-2015, 09:17 AM
Yea my alignment was way off. Tone of toe was right. Got it done right now.
GTG!
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BMWCurves
08-29-2015, 11:30 AM
Is the a way to remove the green gas cap pull in the right side of the trunk? I'm trying to remove the trunk liner to get at the rear shock mounts but the gas pull thing won't let me remove all of the liner.
ELCID86
08-29-2015, 11:36 AM
Yes. IIRC there is a place where it separates in to two pieces. I think you can remove it from the liner from the inside also.
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BMWCurves
08-29-2015, 11:53 AM
Right you are, it disconnects at the neck. Thanks!
ELCID86
08-29-2015, 12:35 PM
Right you are, it disconnects at the neck. Thanks!
:thumbsup
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TigerTater
08-29-2015, 01:32 PM
The hits keep coming!! Since I've gotten the new tires I ve been able to focus on other vibrations in the car and suspected CSB failure. Jack the car up today got access to the driveshaft and lo and behold the CSB is bad. Figured I'd replace the guibo as well as it looks tired. Any recommendations on brand? Lemforder for guibo? Rein for CSB? Need to get these quickly to replace the worn parts and get back on the road. 21336https://vimeo.com/137709505
I did lemforder and OE bmw.
ClimRox
09-01-2015, 09:20 AM
Replaced wipers today with Genuine BMW Evo style part# 61610037009. I noticed instructions on RealOEM stating to remove the wiper blade guide part# 61618263685. Can anyone confirm they did this? The blade guide appears to work ok with the Evo blade.
BMWCurves
09-02-2015, 08:04 PM
Is there an industry standard or standout brand for wheel alignment equipment that shops have?
NoVAphotog
09-03-2015, 03:34 AM
Is there an industry standard or standout brand for wheel alignment equipment that shops have?
The Hunter Hawkeye Elite.
http://www.hunter.com/alignment-systems/hawkeye-elite
az3579
09-03-2015, 05:41 AM
Is there an industry standard or standout brand for wheel alignment equipment that shops have?
The Hunter Hawkeye Elite.
http://www.hunter.com/alignment-systems/hawkeye-elite
This ^
BMWCurves
09-03-2015, 08:17 AM
Perfect, thanks!
Jphilbeck
09-03-2015, 03:23 PM
Replaced wipers today with Genuine BMW Evo style part# 61610037009. I noticed instructions on RealOEM stating to remove the wiper blade guide part# 61618263685. Can anyone confirm they did this? The blade guide appears to work ok with the Evo blade.
Yes remove it. Ask me how I know?
ClimRox
09-06-2015, 09:58 PM
^ Ha, just saw this. Sounds like I should take your word and remove it. Thanks!
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BMWCurves
09-07-2015, 01:48 PM
When replacing pads and rotors, are there any other screws/bolts that you guys tend to replace at the same time? I'm planning on purchasing four of the brake rotor retaining bolts (34211161806) to have on hand just in case I strip them, but any others people suggest?
ELCID86
09-07-2015, 03:17 PM
Be prepared to drill out the rotor retaining screws. I just did rotors on my '09 Odyssey and they were frozen solid. I broke the tip of an impact driver... Drilled them and did not replace the screws as they are only there for ease of assembly (at least on the Honda--and I assume the same for BMW).
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az3579
09-08-2015, 03:48 AM
Drilled them and did not replace the screws as they are only there for ease of assembly (at least on the Honda--and I assume the same for BMW).
Same for BMW. The rotors are held in by the pads and the wheel when installed, so the screws aren't technically necessary. It sure does make it a lot easier to install though, so what you could do is install a good screen to hold the rotor down, put the caliper and pads back on, then you can take out the screw since the rotor won't fall out with all the other hardware in place.
With my Wilwood setup, I use M3 rotors. The rear rotor screw holes don't line up at all with the standard hub so I don't use any screws whatsoever in the back. It is juuuuuuuuust fine. :)
bshovers
09-08-2015, 06:33 AM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/7279d9a1e83ec6ab288ad64db2874965.jpg
I saw this deal this morning. I was wondering if it would work on our alcantara seats?
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ryankokesh
09-08-2015, 08:28 AM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/7279d9a1e83ec6ab288ad64db2874965.jpg
I saw this deal this morning. I was wondering if it would work on our alcantara seats?
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I think all it would do is get wrinkles out... I doubt it's intended to do any cleaning? :dunno
bshovers
09-08-2015, 08:31 AM
I think all it would do is get wrinkles out... I doubt it's intended to do any cleaning? :dunno
Kinda what a figured. Dane said it would be good to remove tint with too. Just got a couple stains in the seats that are annoying.
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ryankokesh
09-08-2015, 08:32 AM
When replacing pads and rotors, are there any other screws/bolts that you guys tend to replace at the same time? I'm planning on purchasing four of the brake rotor retaining bolts (34211161806) to have on hand just in case I strip them, but any others people suggest?
I did not buy anything else... just reused what was there.
Be prepared to drill out the rotor retaining screws. I just did rotors on my '09 Odyssey and they were frozen solid. I broke the tip of an impact driver... Drilled them and did not replace the screws as they are only there for ease of assembly (at least on the Honda--and I assume the same for BMW).
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Yeah, had a pretty shitty experience with one of those on an e46 myself. If you have an impact driver, like the kind you literally hit with a hammer, I've found that to be your best bet for less-than-corporative screws. Throw some anti-seize on there when you reinstall to save any future headaches :)
ryankokesh
09-08-2015, 08:34 AM
Kinda what a figured. Dane said it would be good to remove tint with too. Just got a couple stains in the seats that are annoying.
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I've never tried it on alcantara, but I've been amazed at how well this stuff works. I like it more than the chemical guys stuff I have, fwiw.
http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-900-Carpet-Stain-Lifter/dp/B0002KKIXC
Probably cheaper at your local parts store or wally world, though.
BMWCurves
09-11-2015, 08:25 AM
Anybody know what the original brand and model of tires that came on a ZHP was? I assume it changed over the production lifetime, but just wondering.
Same for BMW. The rotors are held in by the pads and the wheel when installed, so the screws aren't technically necessary. It sure does make it a lot easier to install though, so what you could do is install a good screen to hold the rotor down, put the caliper and pads back on, then you can take out the screw since the rotor won't fall out with all the other hardware in place.
With my Wilwood setup, I use M3 rotors. The rear rotor screw holes don't line up at all with the standard hub so I don't use any screws whatsoever in the back. It is juuuuuuuuust fine. :)
Cool, thanks for the info, guys.
Anybody know what the original brand and model of tires that came on a ZHP was? I assume it changed over the production lifetime, but just wondering.
Cool, thanks for the info, guys.
I think it was continental but I'm not a 100% sure
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az3579
09-11-2015, 09:25 AM
Anybody know what the original brand and model of tires that came on a ZHP was? I assume it changed over the production lifetime, but just wondering.
A few people on Bimmerforums stated (from threads back in 2004) that their ZHPs came with Bridgestone Potenza RE040's, while a Car & Driver article from 2003 shows that the ZHP they tested came with Continental ContiSportContacts.
BMWCurves
09-11-2015, 10:05 AM
I think it was continental but I'm not a 100% sure
A few people on Bimmerforums stated (from threads back in 2004) that their ZHPs came with Bridgestone Potenza RE040's, while a Car & Driver article from 2003 shows that the ZHP they tested came with Continental ContiSportContacts.
I had read the Car & Driver article but must've missed that part somehow. Thanks for the info!
fredo
09-11-2015, 10:46 AM
My ZHP has the OEM NAV system. The DVD door in the trunk won't open any more. The manual only says "you may need to push the eject button several times." I tried 20 times, no success.
What can I try ?
TigerTater
09-11-2015, 01:54 PM
My ZHP has the OEM NAV system. The DVD door in the trunk won't open any more. The manual only says "you may need to push the eject button several times." I tried 20 times, no success.
What can I try ?
Hammer?! :shrugg
Seriously might need to disassemble it to change the discs out ...I've done that before in my old vehicles
ELCID86
09-11-2015, 02:42 PM
My ZHP has the OEM NAV system. The DVD door in the trunk won't open any more. The manual only says "you may need to push the eject button several times." I tried 20 times, no success.
What can I try ?
It seems there'd be a way. I suppose no hole to put a paper clip in... Google any help?
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fredo
09-11-2015, 02:56 PM
Hammer?! :shrugg
Seriously might need to disassemble it to change the discs out ...I've done that before in my old vehicles
Strange fact here: there's no DVD inside the unit.
fredo
09-11-2015, 03:00 PM
It seems there'd be a way. I suppose no hole to put a paper clip in... Google any help?
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I didn't try google yet. Thanks for the idea !
So yesterday my AC started blowing only warm air at the footwell but the other vents are blowing cold... Did some googling and found this
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=617301
Did anyone else have this issue?? Is this the right diagnosis?? Thanks!!
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johnrando
09-14-2015, 05:14 PM
No idea. Great DIY though. Afa NAV, mine did that too. Did you try holding the button down? I do recall there is a way to get it out manually. Look on xoutpost.com.
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BMWCurves
09-14-2015, 09:49 PM
@san: No idea. I've read that it your AC starts only blowing cold in your middle vents but your side vents are hot, it means you're running low on refrigerant and the system needs to be recharged. Dunno if it's the same case here.
@san: No idea. I've read that it your AC starts only blowing cold in your middle vents but your side vents are hot, it means you're running low on refrigerant and the system needs to be recharged. Dunno if it's the same case here.
Ya I have heard that too... But the issue is only with the vents at the footwell... Weird I know But the diy I posted seem to talk about the exact same issue... I guess il have to try and see...
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BMWCurves
09-20-2015, 11:03 AM
Any luck, San?
For anyone who has refreshed their lower grille by spray painting it, was there a particular paint you used that you liked?
Any luck, San?
For anyone who has refreshed their lower grille by spray painting it, was there a particular paint you used that you liked?
I haven't tried fixing it yet... Since the weather is getting colder it doesn't really bother me that much... I know I'm just being very lazy... This weekend I will be installing the konis at Dave's (just_george) place, so will tackle the AC issue probably early next month...
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BMWCurves
09-21-2015, 07:34 AM
I haven't tried fixing it yet... Since the weather is getting colder it doesn't really bother me that much... I know I'm just being very lazy... This weekend I will be installing the konis at Dave's (just_george) place, so will tackle the AC issue probably early next month...
Fair enough, I'm sort of in the same boat. I don't think my AC issue is 100% fixed but it works well enough, and now that I'm headed into the fall there won't bee too much need to fix it.
You'll love the Konis. I've had mine in for a couple of weeks now and they're great. I set them to 3/4 turn from soft on all corners and it rides much better than my old shocks/struts. Good luck.
Fair enough, I'm sort of in the same boat. I don't think my AC issue is 100% fixed but it works well enough, and now that I'm headed into the fall there won't bee too much need to fix it.
You'll love the Konis. I've had mine in for a couple of weeks now and they're great. I set them to 3/4 turn from soft on all corners and it rides much better than my old shocks/struts. Good luck.
Thanks! I think I will go with the same 3/4 turn from soft...
What is wrong with ur AC??
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BMWCurves
09-21-2015, 02:14 PM
It just hisses when I turn it on, suggesting either my compressor is failing or I'm low on refrigerant. I tried filling it a couple months ago and it went away but now it's back so...who knows. Probably have it assessed professionally next spring.
It just hisses when I turn it on, suggesting either my compressor is failing or I'm low on refrigerant. I tried filling it a couple months ago and it went away but now it's back so...who knows. Probably have it assessed professionally next spring.
Hmmm... Mine hisses too, since I bought it... But the AC blows ice cold, except for he recent issue... Now you have me thinking if I have another issue... Haha...
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ELCID86
09-21-2015, 03:58 PM
Fair enough, I'm sort of in the same boat. I don't think my AC issue is 100% fixed but it works well enough, and now that I'm headed into the fall there won't bee too much need to fix it.
You'll love the Konis. I've had mine in for a couple of weeks now and they're great. I set them to 3/4 turn from soft on all corners and it rides much better than my old shocks/struts. Good luck.
Maybe I need to go softer. Mine has a bit of a bone-jarring effect when I hit a dip, etc.
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BMWCurves
09-21-2015, 04:08 PM
What did you set yours to? Right now mine are stiff but not spine-crushingly so. They still translate bumps into the cabin but they aren't a nuisance, and definitely a tad more comfortable than the OE shocks/struts I replaced.
ELCID86
09-21-2015, 04:19 PM
What did you set yours to? Right now mine are stiff but not spine-crushingly so. They still translate bumps into the cabin but they aren't a nuisance, and definitely a tad more comfortable than the OE shocks/struts I replaced.
I don't recall offhand and would have to check the fronts. I did loosen them up a couple of notches recently and it helped. I with the rears could be set easier...
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ELCID86
10-04-2015, 02:35 PM
Anyone have a front (right if it matters) black speaker grille (mid bass)?
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ELCID86
10-04-2015, 05:17 PM
Anyone have a front (right if it matters) black speaker grille (mid bass)?
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Found one on eBay. It's on the way.
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UdubBadger
10-05-2015, 10:39 AM
Hard shutter in the steering wheel yesterday at Road America. First session was good, second session I made it 2 laps before the issue started, right after a really hard brake down from about 150-60ish.
I was on Cool Carbons which aren't "track pads" but have similar specs as a Hawk HP+ pad (hybrid) from what I researched so I doubt I cooked them. Brakes have never done that before. System was just bled - would some air in the system possibly cause that? Stuck piston? The Brembos were rebuilt this April.
Or could this be more suspension related?
Went out again for 3rd session and same thing so I hung it up for the day and drove home. Car was fine on the highway.
Thanks
stephenkirsh
10-05-2015, 01:58 PM
What about the rotors?
Feel any vibration in the brake pedal?
UdubBadger
10-05-2015, 02:33 PM
A bit, not as bad as in the wheel, but the rotors looked ok upon inspection and if they were warped that'd be fucked up cuz theyre new BMW ZCP ones from April/May. Those aren't gonna warp that quickly/easily. I should probably have them turned anyway just in case but somehow I don't think that's the issue or else I'd really feel it at highway speeds which I don't.
az3579
10-05-2015, 05:59 PM
I was on Cool Carbons which aren't "track pads" but have similar specs as a Hawk HP+ pad (hybrid) from what I researched so I doubt I cooked them. Brakes have never done that before. System was just bled - would some air in the system possibly cause that? Stuck piston? The Brembos were rebuilt this April.
That class is pad isn't designed for repeated 150-60 stops... that is considered heavy pad usage. While I doubt that is what is causing your shuddering issue, I'm just saying don't be surprised if your brakes cook easily with those pads at those speeds. You may want to invest in some race pads for that kind of speed.
Did you have your bushings inspected? Does it happen at all stages of the brake pedal (light pressure, medium, and heavy pressures) or just a certain stage? Does turning while braking make a difference in the shuddering?
It is not recommended to "turn" BMW rotors, BTW. I'm not sure of the exact science behind it but I've seen/heard it from numerous sources.
If I had to take a guess, I'd say there's uneven pad deposits on one or both rotors. Did you properly bed them in prior to going to the track?
UdubBadger
10-05-2015, 06:07 PM
That class is pad isn't designed for repeated 150-60 stops... that is considered heavy pad usage. While I doubt that is what is causing your shuddering issue, I'm just saying don't be surprised if your brakes cook easily with those pads at those speeds. You may want to invest in some race pads for that kind of speed.
Did you have your bushings inspected? Does it happen at all stages of the brake pedal (light pressure, medium, and heavy pressures) or just a certain stage? Does turning while braking make a difference in the shuddering?
It is not recommended to "turn" BMW rotors, BTW. I'm not sure of the exact science behind it but I've seen/heard it from numerous sources.
If I had to take a guess, I'd say there's uneven pad deposits on one or both rotors. Did you properly bed them in prior to going to the track?
Yeah I've heard guys had decent days on track with them. This happened 2nd session out. I had DT60s but only front so I was advised to not use them.
Bushings have all been replaced in this car within 2 yrs and less than 20k. It was only on the hard braking from what I recall. Like I said car drove fine on way home a few hours later. This morning they felt a little weak. We looked for pad deposits but didn't see much of anything and instructor did some hot laps to try and see if they could clear them. I bedded the pads when new. If they weren't then, they are now right? Lol
GoingHAM mobile
az3579
10-05-2015, 06:22 PM
Yeah I've heard guys had decent days on track with them. This happened 2nd session out. I had DT60s but only front so I was advised to not use them.
Bushings have all been replaced in this car within 2 yrs and less than 20k. It was only on the hard braking from what I recall. Like I said car drove fine on way home a few hours later. This morning they felt a little weak. We looked for pad deposits but didn't see much of anything and instructor did some hot laps to try and see if they could clear them. I bedded the pads when new. If they weren't then, they are now right? Lol
GoingHAM mobile
Weird. I've got nothin... :dunno
UdubBadger
10-05-2015, 06:26 PM
Lol. Well shit
GoingHAM mobile
NYRhockey
10-06-2015, 06:32 AM
Holy fog! Got the car in the spring so this is my first fall with it and foggy situations and man, it fogs up quick! it had only been a few minutes of starting the car when i took this pic and could not believe how foggy it was. I had the defogger going and the windshield was ok but it had not gotten to work on the side windows yet.
I noticed when i ran the defogger that regardless of what temp i gave it the air coming out was hot. Is this the way it's supposed to be? found that odd. if i switched out of defogger and into regular air flow the air temp would go to whatever i had set it at.
Also, in the air vents above the radio there's a wheel you spin to make it warmer/cooler. What is the point of this when you have the temp arrows to set the temperature? seems redundant, no?
21894
az3579
10-06-2015, 07:40 AM
I noticed when i ran the defogger that regardless of what temp i gave it the air coming out was hot. Is this the way it's supposed to be? found that odd. if i switched out of defogger and into regular air flow the air temp would go to whatever i had set it at.
This is normal behavior.
Also, in the air vents above the radio there's a wheel you spin to make it warmer/cooler. What is the point of this when you have the temp arrows to set the temperature? seems redundant, no?
The wheel is what you should actually use to adjust the temperature you want. The Auto function ensures the temp stays at whatever temperature you specify inside the cabin, which is why it'll blow different temperature air out of different vents to regulate that temperature. I leave mine at 72 degrees all the time; I never touch the temperature adjustment buttons. I control whether I want hot or cool with the slider in between the vents.
ELCID86
10-06-2015, 07:57 AM
Mine was very foggy today too. Ambient temp always about 47* I'm a 69-71*guy. Mostly 69. I have to hit the recirculate every time as mine won't stick on. I also adjust he red/blue dash dial some when I don't want cold air blowing in my face in the winter, etc.
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stephenkirsh
10-06-2015, 08:15 AM
Holy fog! Got the car in the spring so this is my first fall with it and foggy situations and man, it fogs up quick! it had only been a few minutes of starting the car when i took this pic and could not believe how foggy it was. I had the defogger going and the windshield was ok but it had not gotten to work on the side windows yet.
I noticed when i ran the defogger that regardless of what temp i gave it the air coming out was hot. Is this the way it's supposed to be? found that odd. if i switched out of defogger and into regular air flow the air temp would go to whatever i had set it at.
Also, in the air vents above the radio there's a wheel you spin to make it warmer/cooler. What is the point of this when you have the temp arrows to set the temperature? seems redundant, no?
21894
That is some crazy fog. I'd check for water leaks somewhere in your car that cause water to accumulate. You shouldn't be getting that much fog under normal circumstances.
UdubBadger
10-06-2015, 12:58 PM
Weird. I've got nothin... :dunno
So you think it was just the pads? Could it have been the brake fluid?
GoingHAM mobile
stephenkirsh
10-06-2015, 02:28 PM
If you didn't feel anything through the pedal, I doubt it was fluid rotor or pad related.
Any possibility you went off the race Lin and picked up big chunks of tire?
az3579
10-06-2015, 04:53 PM
So you think it was just the pads? Could it have been the brake fluid?
GoingHAM mobile
Sorry man, I haven't a clue at this point. I don't think it's the pads because you'd feel the shuddering through the brake pedal if that was the case. If it was the fluid, then your brakes would have felt mushy, like they have been faded.
Any possibility you went off the race Lin and picked up big chunks of tire?
I don't believe that's the case. Since the shuddering only happens when braking, that means it's not a tire balancing issue. A tire balancing issue from having picked up extra rubber that stuck to the rim (or tire) would have resulted in the tires shuddering all the time at speed, not just when braking.
UdubBadger
10-06-2015, 07:21 PM
Right. So what the fuck causes shuttering upon hard braking but no other time????
Why me?
GoingHAM mobile
az3579
10-07-2015, 02:32 AM
Right. So what the fuck causes shuttering upon hard braking but no other time????
I would still have it looked at by iND (or wherever else you may take it). We can speculate all we want, but unfortunately that isn't going to diagnose the issue properly.
Why me?
That's what I asked myself yesterday. :shifty
UdubBadger
10-07-2015, 05:31 AM
Yeah that's what's going to happen
GoingHAM mobile
UdubBadger
10-07-2015, 08:09 AM
So let me ask you this cuz I had a theory.
When you brake, the car shifts weight onto the front wheels/suspension. What if the car was rubbing slightly upon the hard braking, would that cause a shutter in the steering wheel. I ask because it looks like the fronts have a very small amount of marks from rubbing about a 1/4" wide path at the top of the sidewall
GoingHAM mobile
stephenkirsh
10-07-2015, 09:36 AM
Not likely, plus you would hear it. My back rubs a bit and every time it makes quite a noise.
az3579
10-07-2015, 09:49 AM
So let me ask you this cuz I had a theory.
When you brake, the car shifts weight onto the front wheels/suspension. What if the car was rubbing slightly upon the hard braking, would that cause a shutter in the steering wheel. I ask because it looks like the fronts have a very small amount of marks from rubbing about a 1/4" wide path at the top of the sidewall
GoingHAM mobile
I don't think that would cause shuddering. If anything, you'd smell tire pretty badly if it was rubbing that that much. Also, rubbing that bad would have been caught by iND, and I don't think the car would have been drivable.
UdubBadger
10-07-2015, 11:28 AM
I don't think that would cause shuddering. If anything, you'd smell tire pretty badly if it was rubbing that that much. Also, rubbing that bad would have been caught by iND, and I don't think the car would have been drivable.
The rubbing only would happen on the really hard neck jerking deceleration though, stiff suspension normally but under a lot of g force of a hard brake it would bring the front end down so much it might touch a bit. IND wouldn't have looked for that, it was just a visual inspection.
It did smell a touch funny at times but I figured it was just brake smells.
UdubBadger
10-07-2015, 11:34 AM
Ugh...
The world may never know
GoingHAM mobile
az3579
10-07-2015, 12:35 PM
Brakes and tires have different smells. Are you sure it was tires you were smelling and not brakes? I imagine the brakes would definitely be smelly after multiple 150-60 slowdowns.
sent from my Droid Turbo
UdubBadger
10-07-2015, 02:04 PM
No idea. Oh well. Guess next time I'll raise up the suspension a touch and see if he same issue returns on track pads.
GoingHAM mobile
Newjack
10-07-2015, 03:51 PM
This isn't exactly a question, but this article leads me to believe there is some nonsense going on.
ARTICLE HERE (https://www.carthrottle.com/post/why-remapping-a-naturallyaspirated-car-is-totally-worth-the-money/)
This topic has been beaten to death, but I'm having a hard time believing that this dudes car read 228whp on the dyno. Looks like he threw on Style 135's on a regular 330ci too.
I've driven modified ZHP's before (exhaust, shark, short shifter) and they really didn't feel much faster than mine did.
stephenkirsh
10-07-2015, 04:10 PM
8hp at the peak isn't unusual. What's the issue?
az3579
10-07-2015, 04:15 PM
This isn't exactly a question, but this article leads me to believe there is some nonsense going on.
ARTICLE HERE (https://www.carthrottle.com/post/why-remapping-a-naturallyaspirated-car-is-totally-worth-the-money/)
This topic has been beaten to death, but I'm having a hard time believing that this dudes car read 228whp on the dyno. Looks like he threw on Style 135's on a regular 330ci too.
I've driven modified ZHP's before (exhaust, shark, short shifter) and they really didn't feel much faster than mine did.
There is such a thing as dyno error. If you take that car to a different dyno elsewhere, or maybe even the same type of dyno at a different location, you'll get a different reading.
sent from my Droid Turbo
stephenkirsh
10-08-2015, 10:32 AM
Yea the key is to always use the same dyno when making comparisons.
wsmeyer
10-08-2015, 01:25 PM
And not this dyno:
https://www.facebook.com/districtspeedfans/videos/876638255720068/
NYRhockey
10-11-2015, 10:34 AM
Randomly decided to check the coolant level today and this is what i saw. From the looks of it, it appears to be low, correct? the car is cold (hasn't moved this weekend) and on a flat surface
What type of coolant do i get and what do i mix it with, if anything? if you look inside the tip of the stick is about 1/4 in from the top of the container.
2196121962
fredo
10-11-2015, 10:49 AM
Prestone sells a 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze/coolant mix. They say it's good for all makes, all models. I use it for the Saab. For top off purposes, it should be fine for your car.
NYRhockey
10-11-2015, 11:17 AM
Great, thx. I'll hit the car store in a bit and get some. Sux it went down so much. The car had a coolant flush only a couple of years ago and the car sat a lot with the previous owner (i think she put 5-7K in the last 2yrs of ownership) and i've put 3K in the 7mths i've had it. Looks like there's a leak somewhere though the garage floor is clean.
The system is not full but not fully empty as well.
stephenkirsh
10-11-2015, 02:08 PM
Great, thx. I'll hit the car store in a bit and get some. Sux it went down so much. The car had a coolant flush only a couple of years ago and the car sat a lot with the previous owner (i think she put 5-7K in the last 2yrs of ownership) and i've put 3K in the 7mths i've had it. Looks like there's a leak somewhere though the garage floor is clean.
I check mine ever 4-8 weeks and it does go down. The cap is designed to vent extra pressure, so it'll slowly go down as some is lost from the vent.
I use coolant from BMW. Some argue to ONLY use that kind, but I dunno. I'm only 20 min from a stealership, so it's easy to get.
ELCID86
10-11-2015, 02:36 PM
I use BMW mixed to 50/50. Prestone may work fine in a pinch.
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I use OE bmw coolant. But like I said the system is not empty just a bit low. It does vent so if you fill it up to the top, it will go down eventually
johnrando
10-11-2015, 06:22 PM
I use BMW coolant.
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BMWCurves
10-11-2015, 11:31 PM
When I did my coolant flush I did it with a 50/50 mix of OEM BMW coolant and distilled water. I tend to top off the expansion tank with just distilled water whenever it is a bit low.
NYRhockey
10-12-2015, 08:48 AM
ok ok ok, you guys convinced me. Just went to the dealership and got some OEM coolant :) now need to go to Walmart and get me a measuring container so i can do the proper 50/50 mix
ELCID86
10-12-2015, 10:46 AM
ok ok ok, you guys convinced me. Just went to the dealership and got some OEM coolant :) now need to go to Walmart and get me a measuring container so i can do the proper 50/50 mix
Grab the Mobil1 0w-40 too! I think there is still a rebate.
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stephenkirsh
10-12-2015, 11:13 AM
Isn't BMW coolant premixed?
NYRhockey
10-12-2015, 11:16 AM
nope, need to add water (preferably distilled).
BMWCurves
10-12-2015, 11:53 AM
Grab the Mobil1 0w-40 too! I think there is still a rebate.
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Where is this deal, at the dealership? I'm considering that over BMW oil next oil change.
wsmeyer
10-12-2015, 11:54 AM
ok ok ok, you guys convinced me. Just went to the dealership and got some OEM coolant :) now need to go to Walmart and get me a measuring container so i can do the proper 50/50 mix
You just need to go to the grocery store and buy 2x 1 gallon jugs of distilled water. Water the plants with one and then pour half the second into the first so you have both with equal amounts of water. Then add the coolant equally to both and you've got 2 jugs of 50/50 mixed coolant.
ELCID86
10-12-2015, 12:04 PM
Where is this deal, at the dealership?
Yeah right.
Good call Wes. ^
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NYRhockey
10-12-2015, 12:30 PM
You just need to go to the grocery store and buy 2x 1 gallon jugs of distilled water. Water the plants with one and then pour half the second into the first so you have both with equal amounts of water. Then add the coolant equally to both and you've got 2 jugs of 50/50 mixed coolant.
actually i made things a little less easy by buying a quart instead. I have empty gallons of "regular" water at home, so i'll just pour the coolant in it then take the distilled water and fill the coolant container to get the 1 quart then pour it in the other gallon that has the coolant.
stephenkirsh
10-12-2015, 02:30 PM
nope, need to add water (preferably distilled).
Ah I premixed mine so long ago I forgot lol
BMWCurves
10-12-2015, 07:17 PM
For those with a short shifter kit, specifically the UUC Evo3 kit, do you know what might cause a shifted-to-the-right position in neutral? See pictures and video clip below:
Looking front to back:
http://i.imgur.com/JA8TClZ.jpg
Looking from the side:
http://i.imgur.com/2S70YdO.jpg
Video: https://streamable.com/f4yx
Some background: A few weeks ago I had my UUC Evo3 short shift kit with UUC's double shear selector rod (DSSR) installed by my indy. When he got it back to me it was incredibly hard to shift into fifth. As it turns out, the DSSR was scraping against the carrier. UUC claimed it was an installation error but only after my mechanic measured the dimensions did UUC admit that it sent me the wrong shifter (the proper shifter is longer). They mailed me the correct one but I was out of town so a family member dropped it off at the mechanic and he installed it. Now it shifts nicely, but it has this off-center positioning you see above and neither myself nor the mechanic could manage to get the shifter knob to lock into place even though the neck seems to be the same dimensions as the OE shifter. As an added note, the new shifter had some plastic coming out between the adjustable upper section and the lower section and when my mechanic talked to UUC about it, they said to just cut it off. I'm beginning to wonder if UUC's quality control is slipping.
At any rate, if anyone has any insight that would be awesome. I'm getting quite annoyed with this minor nuisance.
rguti153
10-13-2015, 12:01 PM
From what I remember from other members, it don't really sit right in the middle
wsmeyer
10-13-2015, 12:33 PM
Just noticed your PM too. That's definitely not right. In neutral it doesn't sit directly in the center because it has to move 2 positions to the left and only one position to the right. But, it is supposed to sit straight up and down whereas yours leans to the right and that aint right.
wsmeyer
10-13-2015, 12:40 PM
Here's mine. EVO3 and DSSR sticking straight up in neutral. 21985
BMWCurves
10-13-2015, 12:57 PM
I appreciate the pics! It's definitely installed wrong. The angle of the notch for the shifter knob is facing the rear driver's side window and the passenger's front window, whereas in yours it is the opposite: from the driver's front window to the passenger's rear window. So UUC messed up by having the tamperproof screw on in the wrong side and the mechanic followed their directions causing the issue.
wsmeyer
10-13-2015, 01:09 PM
Yeah the shifter is 180 degrees off. You could put the shift knob on upside down :)
BMWCurves
10-13-2015, 03:56 PM
Yeah the shifter is 180 degrees off. You could put the shift knob on upside down :)
Hah, I thought about that. Now that I look at it though, even if I took it to the mechanic to turn it around, the notch at the top still wouldn't be correct. 180 degrees would mean the notch would still be aimed in the current and most importantly, incorrect direction. Or am I being a doofus?
Karl Lazlo
10-13-2015, 04:28 PM
For those with a short shifter kit, specifically the UUC Evo3 kit, do you know what might cause a shifted-to-the-right position in neutral?
It isn't your UUC kit. Your shifter bushings are worn. And you may have pink eye.
ELCID86
10-13-2015, 04:51 PM
It isn't your UUC kit. Your shifter bushings are worn. And you may have pink eye.
Lol. My Autosolutions SSK sits like dis.
Sorry I'm not showing my bare knob.
21998
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Karl Lazlo
10-13-2015, 04:55 PM
Sorry I'm not showing my bare knob.
Tease.
BMWCurves
10-13-2015, 05:14 PM
It isn't your UUC kit. Your shifter bushings are worn. And you may have pink eye.
Haha I don't even know where to begin with those statements, or if any of them are serious? I doubt the bushings are worn since UUC provides new Delrin bushings, and I am very certain I don't have pink eye. Although...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYXLKRNCVrw
Lol. My Autosolutions SSK sits dike dis.
Sorry I'm not showing my bare knob.
It's okay, my imagination can fill in the rest :p
Karl Lazlo
10-13-2015, 05:23 PM
Haha I don't even know where to begin with those statements, or if any of them are serious? I doubt the bushings are worn since UUC provides new Delrin bushings, and I am very certain I don't have pink eye. Although...
1. Serious
2. Serious
3. Jury is still out
The UUC provides for new bushings (IIRC) but not all of them. The listing to the right, other than being conservative politically, is
likely due to a worn or broken 5th gear lockout pin. I would also see the doc about that potential conjunctivitis.
BMWCurves
10-13-2015, 08:46 PM
Hmm...I'm not clear on what the lockout pin does, why would a worn/broken lockout pin cause the rightward positioning or the rotational issue? I feel resistance both toward 1st/2nd and toward 5th/6th gear.
az3579
10-14-2015, 04:22 AM
1. Serious
2. Serious
3. Jury is still out
The UUC provides for new bushings (IIRC) but not all of them. The listing to the right, other than being conservative politically, is
likely due to a worn or broken 5th gear lockout pin. I would also see the doc about that potential conjunctivitis.
The thing is, it was fine before the SSK install ever took place. That part isn't touched during the process, so it's unlikely it broke during this time.
BMWCurves
10-17-2015, 01:28 PM
Two questions:
1. Would there be any wiring issues retrofitting the side mirrors from a 2004 E46 M3 to a 2005 330Ci?
2. Anyone have any idea how much it might cost to repaint said mirrors? The car I might pull them from is black, I'd need to repaint it Orient Blue.
I appreciate any and all help!
az3579
10-17-2015, 05:23 PM
You need to swap mirror motors because you can't use the M3 motors. Getting them aligned can be a challenge.
sent from my Droid Turbo
05Imola
10-19-2015, 07:59 PM
Is the rear subframe the same on all E46s? I have the chance to pick up a rear subframe from a 330i Auto. I would change the bushings on my time and then swap it into my MANUAL ZHP. Not sure it will swap right over.
I usually use bmw's (shell) 5w30 oil for my Zhp... Since the winter is about to start and I live in a place where it gets close to zero and negative temps, is it better if I go with Mobil 1 0w-40??
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BMWCurves
10-20-2015, 07:21 AM
Is the rear subframe the same on all E46s? I have the chance to pick up a rear subframe from a 330i Auto. I would change the bushings on my time and then swap it into my MANUAL ZHP. Not sure it will swap right over.
I would wager that the 330xi and M3 might have a slightly different subframe, but across 330i transmissions they would have the same subframe. Someone else with more knowledge can confirm.
I usually use bmw's (shell) 5w30 oil for my Zhp... Since the winter is about to start and I live in a place where it gets close to zero and negative temps, is it better if I go with Mobil 1 0w-40??
How cold is it going to get where you live? I think 0W-40 oil will be better suited to colder climates because the oil will be less viscous than 5W-30 when you first start the car allowing the oil to circulate and lubricate the essential motor components more quickly. On the other end of the spectrum, 0W-40 will be slightly more viscous at normal operating temperatures than 5W-30 oil (the "30" part of that oil) but that shouldn't matter for our engines, people use both those oils with no issues as far as I know. Next oil change I'm moving from BMW's 5W-30 to Mobil's 0W-40.
I would wager that the 330xi and M3 might have a slightly different subframe, but across 330i transmissions they would have the same subframe. Someone else with more knowledge can confirm.
How cold is it going to get where you live? I think 0W-40 oil will be better suited to colder climates because the oil will be less viscous than 5W-30 when you first start the car allowing the oil to circulate and lubricate the essential motor components more quickly. On the other end of the spectrum, 0W-40 will be slightly more viscous at normal operating temperatures than 5W-30 oil (the "30" part of that oil) but that shouldn't matter for our engines, people use both those oils with no issues as far as I know. Next oil change I'm moving from BMW's 5W-30 to Mobil's 0W-40.
Ya, that is exactly what I am thinking too...
The extreme it went to last year was -20f... But usually is around 0-20f most of the time...
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stephenkirsh
10-20-2015, 02:03 PM
I'm assuming M3 subframe is completely different.
05Imola
10-20-2015, 03:49 PM
I'm pretty sure m3 subframe is different. What I meant to ask was across the non M cars and if the transmission makes a difference. It seems like transmission does not matter when it comes to the subframe. Thanks
Auto and manual subframe is the same.
M3 subframe is different.
fredo
10-20-2015, 06:29 PM
I'm getting ready to install the silver cube trim. Will some clips break in the process ? If so, I will order some ahead of time. How many clips would you recommend to buy ?
I'm getting ready to install the silver cube trim. Will some clips break in the process ? If so, I will order some ahead of time. How many clips would you recommend to buy ?
I would get 8 at least for the dash trim.
Door trim clips don't usually cause a problem
fredo
10-20-2015, 06:34 PM
Thank you, Vas. I'm glad I asked.
I just bought 6 of them from thebmwminipartsstore
fredo
10-20-2015, 07:18 PM
Is this the part number you ordered ? 071 491 58194.
Is this the part number you ordered ? 071 491 58194.
Part number 51458266814
ELCID86
10-21-2015, 03:38 AM
Always have some clear (door) and orange/red (dash) "anchors" on hand when messing with trim.
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fredo
10-21-2015, 06:51 AM
Thank you, guys. It's clear now after looking at realoem.com :
51458266814 = red clip for dash trim
07149158194 = clear clip for door trim
BMWCurves
10-21-2015, 09:15 AM
Is anyone running a catch can kit? How do you like it? I've been reading up on them and I seem to be a prime candidate for one since I often drive less than 30 minute stints and live in a cold-ish climate (20-40F in the winter). I've been looking at the Radium Engineering one, but not sure if there are better or more cost-effective options.
QC_ZHP
10-21-2015, 11:22 AM
Is anyone running a catch can kit? How do you like it? I've been reading up on them and I seem to be a prime candidate for one since I often drive less than 30 minute stints and live in a cold-ish climate (20-40F in the winter). I've been looking at the Radium Engineering one, but not sure if there are better or more cost-effective options.
There's a thread on here about making your own. I think Schmolk (sp?) started it. The radium kit is eye candy though.
ELCID86
10-21-2015, 04:10 PM
There's a thread on here about making your own. I think Schmolk (sp?) started it. The radium kit is eye candy though.
Smolck. I think a few others here have one also.
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
danewilson77
10-22-2015, 03:48 AM
Smolck. I think a few others here have one also.
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
Smolck sold his ZHP.
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NYRhockey
10-22-2015, 09:25 AM
Where's the antenna in our cars? i get a lot of interference that i shouldn't be getting when listening to local stations or AM radio.
It's on back window, I think upper two lines incorporated into rear defogger.
Amplifier is in driver's C pillar.
az3579
10-22-2015, 03:11 PM
Where's the antenna in our cars? i get a lot of interference that i shouldn't be getting when listening to local stations or AM radio.
The antenna is built into the rear glass. The reason you get interference is because there is a short. It's a common problem, and the solution is to buy a new rear glass. A telltale that you have the short is to turn the radio on and then turn on the rear defogger. Your reception will be terrible, if not non-existent like mine is.
ELCID86
10-22-2015, 06:03 PM
The antenna is built into the rear glass. The reason you get interference is because there is a short. It's a common problem, and the solution is to buy a new rear glass. A telltale that you have the short is to turn the radio on and then turn on the rear defogger. Your reception will be terrible, if not non-existent like mine is.
I had that problem the first time I turned on my defrost in the OB AT car--complete static.
There is some type of antenna looking device under the rear deck. Looks like SiriusXm but Colin's car doesn't have that.
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
NYRhockey
10-22-2015, 06:32 PM
The antenna is built into the rear glass. The reason you get interference is because there is a short. It's a common problem, and the solution is to buy a new rear glass. A telltale that you have the short is to turn the radio on and then turn on the rear defogger. Your reception will be terrible, if not non-existent like mine is.
That i had no clue about. Thx. I will try that as see how bad my reception gets. I'll have to learn to live with it (or use the CD player, i guess) since getting a rear glass would be buried at the bottom of my priority list.
fredo
10-23-2015, 04:31 AM
Yesterday I took the ZHP for a ride, 5 miles round trip. The first 2.5 miles I could see the yellow oil warning. Turned off the car, and the warning didn't come back.
What are the chances the oil sensor is going bad ? Car has 139,000 miles.
Should I add some oil just in case ?
Thanks.
05Imola
10-23-2015, 05:17 AM
The yellow light indicated your are low on oil. I think it first stays on for a few seconds when you turn off the car and as the level goes down it will light up when you first drive the car. Check your oil before you worry about sensors haha.
fredo
10-23-2015, 06:07 AM
Sounds good to me. Thank you.
NoVAphotog
10-23-2015, 06:31 AM
Anyone else get the cold weather influenced windshield washer fluid leak? The pump and grommet thing have been replaced on mine and it seems like the first night under 32 degrees her water just broke and spilled all over the floor. I'm still not even sure what failed...I'm assuming the little $7 grommet...again.
BMWCurves
10-23-2015, 07:28 AM
Yesterday I took the ZHP for a ride, 5 miles round trip. The first 2.5 miles I could see the yellow oil warning. Turned off the car, and the warning didn't come back.
What are the chances the oil sensor is going bad ? Car has 139,000 miles.
Should I add some oil just in case ?
Thanks.
I have the same intermittent issue. Sometimes it'll turn on after awhile, other times right when I start the car. I checked my oil and it sits right at the full line on the dip stick. I bought a new sensor and gasket and I plan to replace them on the next oil change. I remember someone saying that the 5W-30 BMW oil sometimes can cause trouble with the oil level sensor, so I plan to switch to Mobil 0W-40. Hopefully doing both of those will make the issue go away.
So in short, check your oil level and if that's normal, it may be the sensor.
Anyone else get the cold weather influenced windshield washer fluid leak? The pump and grommet thing have been replaced on mine and it seems like the first night under 32 degrees her water just broke and spilled all over the floor. I'm still not even sure what failed...I'm assuming the little $7 grommet...again.
That's very strange. I haven't had too cold of weather yet and I replaced the pump and the grommet on mine about a month or so ago but mine is working perfectly so far with no visible leaks.
NoVAphotog
10-23-2015, 07:31 AM
I remember someone saying that the 5W-30 BMW oil sometimes can cause trouble with the oil level sensor, so I plan to switch to Mobil 0W-40. Hopefully doing both of those will make the issue go away.
That was me, was seeing that light a lot with the BMW oil and as soon as I switched, I have only seen it a couple times. Let me know how it goes as it gets colder with the windshield fluid...
az3579
10-23-2015, 07:59 AM
That i had no clue about. Thx. I will try that as see how bad my reception gets. I'll have to learn to live with it (or use the CD player, i guess) since getting a rear glass would be buried at the bottom of my priority list.
Same boat. :(
Anyone else get the cold weather influenced windshield washer fluid leak? The pump and grommet thing have been replaced on mine and it seems like the first night under 32 degrees her water just broke and spilled all over the floor. I'm still not even sure what failed...I'm assuming the little $7 grommet...again.
Mine has been like that for a couple of years at least. It's not weather related. Someone on here mentioned that the washer pump breaks internally, which may cause a leak. I don't know, I haven't placed it on my priority list to troubleshoot yet.
BMWCurves
10-23-2015, 08:53 AM
That was me, was seeing that light a lot with the BMW oil and as soon as I switched, I have only seen it a couple times. Let me know how it goes as it gets colder with the windshield fluid...
Will do.
ELCID86
10-23-2015, 11:49 AM
The yellow light indicated your are low on oil. I think it first stays on for a few seconds when you turn off the car and as the level goes down it will light up when you first drive the car. Check your oil before you worry about sensors haha.
Yes. Mine does this on occasion. Not every time. But periodically it will come on when driving and I'm usually a bit low... Keep an eye on it Fredo.
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
NYRhockey
10-25-2015, 06:26 PM
random question:
Noticed the zhp's color name under the hood says "ImolarotII"...i didn't know there were 2 versions of IR. Where/when was ImolarotI used?
fredo
11-01-2015, 04:29 AM
Two days ago we had heavy rain in town. I drove thru some streets with high water. Yesterday I noticed both fog lamps have condensation and possibly water inside. What could be the fix ?
ELCID86
11-01-2015, 05:45 AM
Two days ago we had heavy rain in town. I drove thru some streets with high water. Yesterday I noticed both fog lamps have condensation and possibly water inside. What could be the fix ?
I was just thinking about you and wondering how you were doing with all the rain. They have exhaust tubes in them. As long as they aren't full of water, I'd think turning them on should dissipate any condensation.
You can also remove them pretty easily and pull the bulb out. Then maybe hit them with a hair dryer. :dunno
Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.
fredo
11-01-2015, 10:39 AM
Thanks, Shawn. I appreciate your thoughts. I'm doing fine after the rain. I will just wait until the fog lamps dry by themselves. Hopefully it was a one time deal. :thumbsup
hcbeck2689
11-03-2015, 01:41 PM
Has any one ever seen these roundels before?
22411
-Holden
fredo
11-03-2015, 01:45 PM
I've seen them before, probably on ebay. I remember the description said they were "really old" roundels.
hcbeck2689
11-03-2015, 02:04 PM
These are listed as Motorsport roundels. $140 for front and back
-Holden
hcbeck2689
11-05-2015, 09:32 PM
Is there any sort of Mafia discount at tirerack?
-Holden
BMWCurves
11-05-2015, 10:15 PM
I posted this over in the BMW Scanner/PA Soft FS thread but didn't get a response so I'll see if anyone here knows:
In the PA Soft UI:
1. Under ZKE5 and "Locking condition," Does Terminal R mean the doors never automatically lock at any speed?
2. Is there a way to code finish the windshield wiper so it finishes it's cycle after the ignition is turned off i.e. I turn off the ignition as the wipers are midway up the windshield, but they'll go ahead and finish the cycle?
Thanks in advance!
stephenkirsh
11-07-2015, 06:40 PM
Does anybody know why the 325 weighs less than the 330 on the E46? The M54 blocks are the same, right? The difference is just stroke?
325ci: 3197 lbs
330ci: 3285 lbs
stats for manual tranny via E46f
325i: 3075 lbs
330i: 3097 lbs
stats for 5 speed via UltimateSpecs.com
ryankokesh
11-07-2015, 06:53 PM
Is there any sort of Mafia discount at tirerack?
-Holden
Unfortunately, no. Just use the affiliate link so the mafia gets their cut!
There are a few good promotions going on now, though! I think good year/Dunlop has a hundred bucks or so in mail in rebates.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
az3579
11-08-2015, 06:18 AM
Does anybody know why the 325 weighs less than the 330 on the E46? The M54 blocks are the same, right? The difference is just stroke?
325ci: 3197 lbs
330ci: 3285 lbs
stats for manual tranny via E46f
325i: 3075 lbs
330i: 3097 lbs
stats for 5 speed via UltimateSpecs.com
Equipment differences. 330's came better equipped for the most part.
sent from my Droid Turbo
mynamenumber
11-16-2015, 10:40 PM
Hi all, for a grey leather interior, is there a recommended product to apply regularly to ensure a good long life for the seats?
Any product for darker grey alcantara?
Thanks!
az3579
11-17-2015, 08:21 AM
Hi all, for a grey leather interior, is there a recommended product to apply regularly to ensure a good long life for the seats?
Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Leatherique Pristine Clean.
hcbeck2689
11-17-2015, 01:46 PM
I have tried finding this on the search function with no real luck.
Has anyone used the m5 illuminated zhp knob (25112284205) on their e46?
I want to replace my alcantara boot with a leather boot so if I could make the m5 boot fit that would be ideal. Is there a thread with this exact info?
-Holden
az3579
11-18-2015, 05:02 AM
I have tried finding this on the search function with no real luck.
Has anyone used the m5 illuminated zhp knob (25112284205) on their e46?
I want to replace my alcantara boot with a leather boot so if I could make the m5 boot fit that would be ideal. Is there a thread with this exact info?
-Holden
It's been done by a few. The M5 boot will not fit as-is; it's an entirely different shape than the E46. Maybe with some modifications you could make it fit over the E46 frame, but I'd advise just buy an E46 leather boot instead and using the knob by itself.
hcbeck2689
11-18-2015, 05:08 AM
It's been done by a few. The M5 boot will not fit as-is; it's an entirely different shape than the E46. Maybe with some modifications you could make it fit over the E46 frame, but I'd advise just buy an E46 leather boot instead and using the knob by itself.
I found a useful forum on M3f after I posted. Looks like I will try and use the boot and fit it to a e46 frame
-Holden
cakM3
11-18-2015, 05:52 AM
I found a useful forum on M3f after I posted. Looks like I will try and use the boot and fit it to a e46 frame
-Holden
I have the illuminated F10 ///M shift knob installed on my ///M. I removed the boot from the shift knob and installed the shift knob using the leather boot I already have for my ///M. Pictures of this retrofit are in my ///M project thread.
UWISHU1
11-22-2015, 10:19 PM
I can't seem to find a thread about the window actuator problem. Can someone link me?
...just got the car, tested windows on test drive and they did great, now they're sticking bad. Kinda mad about it.
Also, is everyone's temp gauge exactly in the middle? All my other cars have been a needle or two left of the middle.
BMWCurves
11-22-2015, 11:51 PM
In the last few days when I turn on the car, there's a loud pop from the subwoofer. Speakers sound fine but haven't really played with it. One E46F thread suggested it was an amp dying. Can anyone confirm or deny that?
az3579
11-23-2015, 03:45 AM
I can't seem to find a thread about the window actuator problem. Can someone link me?
...just got the car, tested windows on test drive and they did great, now they're sticking bad. Kinda mad about it.
There are many many threads about the window regulator issue. It's unfortunately too common for them to fail. They slow down, creak/pop, and eventually fail altogether.
Also, is everyone's temp gauge exactly in the middle? All my other cars have been a needle or two left of the middle.
It's like that by design. BMW designed it so that the middle is anywhere between 75-115*C. They did this so people don't panic when the temperatures fluctuate in different driving conditions. Unfortunately this also means that when the needle moves off the right, it will rapidly shoot up to the red, at which point it is *probably* too late to save your engine. This can be coded to show actual temperatures, but you'll need a PA Soft module and a little technical skill to accomplish it.
hcbeck2689
11-25-2015, 10:14 AM
Trying to figure out the size to ssr gt3 wheels but don't know how. Measures from outside to outside of lip. Is that the measurement? Also don't see anything about offset inside wheel.
22772
These are the only numbers I see.
227732277422775
-Holden
BMWCurves
11-27-2015, 09:38 AM
Wish I could help. My intuition tells me you just measure lip to lip for width, but can be hard due to the shape. If you can figure that out, then offset should be the distance the mounting point is from the wheel's centerline. Just measure the total distance from the mounting point to the inside lip and calculate the difference between that and half of the total diameter. Someone else can weigh in on it though.
As for me, is there any difference between the OEM M3 strut brace (black) vs the OEM all-E46 strut brace (51710395077)? I've been eyeing the all-E46 one and it's on sale for ~$250 here (https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Reinforcement/Front_Strut_Brace/ES127298/)
slater
11-27-2015, 10:27 AM
Trying to figure out the size to ssr gt3 wheels but don't know how. Measures from outside to outside of lip. Is that the measurement? Also don't see anything about offset inside wheel.
22772
is that an additional number casting on the outer edge of the spoke portion of the wheel? (about 3 o'clock in the photo)
anything cast in the front?
peter
UWISHU1
11-29-2015, 02:11 PM
There are many many threads about the window regulator issue. It's unfortunately too common for them to fail. They slow down, creak/pop, and eventually fail altogether.
Super!
It's like that by design. BMW designed it so that the middle is anywhere between 75-115*C. They did this so people don't panic when the temperatures fluctuate in different driving conditions. Unfortunately this also means that when the needle moves off the right, it will rapidly shoot up to the red, at which point it is *probably* too late to save your engine. This can be coded to show actual temperatures, but you'll need a PA Soft module and a little technical skill to accomplish it.
That's one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. Ah well. Thx for the input!
hcbeck2689
11-29-2015, 08:00 PM
is that an additional number casting on the outer edge of the spoke portion of the wheel? (about 3 o'clock in the photo)
anything cast in the front?
peter
I don't think it is. I looked pretty hard but I could be wrong. I no longer have access to the wheels. They are my dad's and I am just helping him sell them. Maybe someone on e46f that has had a set will chime in.
-Holden
Engine coils. When to replace them? Wait till a code appears ?
New plugs installed at 120k. Car now is at 135k.
mynamenumber
11-29-2015, 10:06 PM
Some more new owner questions:
-- My turn signal flashes the front side indicators (yellow) AND ALSO the two white angel eyes, whether or not the lights are on. Is this correct? I think my PO replaced something in the headlights, since the side indicators have a white cover instead of yellow ('05 sedan).
-- I don't REALLY understand the auto-recycle air button. Does it actually do stuff? Any way to tell if it's turned itself on?
-- The PO said that the automatic setup of the ZHP "basically skips first gear" unless you opt in to the manual shift mode. Is this true, and is there somewhere I can read more about this?
-- The auto-wiper mode only works if I click into it. That is, if I leave the car in water-detect mode, turn it off, then restart, the wiper will never detect water unless I turn it off then back to auto-detect. No biggie, but is this normal?
-- Local shop said the right rear shock is "leaking just a little bit." They recommended I replace the rear suspension maybe next year. Any thoughts on this? Anything I can do in the interim to make a slow death even slower?
Thanks!
Jconlin16
11-29-2015, 10:23 PM
As for me, is there any difference between the OEM M3 strut brace (black) vs the OEM all-E46 strut brace (51710395077)? I've been eyeing the all-E46 one and it's on sale for ~$250 here (https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/Suspension/Reinforcement/Front_Strut_Brace/ES127298/)
I wanted to know the same thing! The only difference I could see, was the color and that some M3 bars appear to be straight. I ended up purchasing the non-m bar and just painted it black. Not sure if it performs any differently than the M3 bar but it looks and feels good, especially with coilovers and a 27mm sway bar up front!
BMWCurves
11-29-2015, 11:44 PM
Engine coils. When to replace them? Wait till a code appears ?
New plugs installed at 120k. Car now is at 135k.
I assume you replace them (all) when one of them starts throwing codes, since the other coils are likely on their way out. Someone else more knowledgable can verify (or refute) my assumption.
Some more new owner questions:
-- My turn signal flashes the front side indicators (yellow) AND ALSO the two white angel eyes, whether or not the lights are on. Is this correct? I think my PO replaced something in the headlights, since the side indicators have a white cover instead of yellow ('05 sedan).
Are your angel eyes lit all the time, or only while your headlights are on?
-- I don't REALLY understand the auto-recycle air button. Does it actually do stuff? Any way to tell if it's turned itself on?
To quote the owner's manual: "You can respond to unpleasant external odors or pollutants by temporarily stopping the flow of outside
air. The system then recirculates the air currently within the vehicle." Basically the button filters and recirculates current cabin air while blocking out external air supply to prevent more contaminants from entering the cabin. I tend to leave it off, but other's just leave it in automatic mode.
-- The PO said that the automatic setup of the ZHP "basically skips first gear" unless you opt in to the manual shift mode. Is this true, and is there somewhere I can read more about this?
You'll have to find someone more knowledgeable about the Steptronic system.
-- The auto-wiper mode only works if I click into it. That is, if I leave the car in water-detect mode, turn it off, then restart, the wiper will never detect water unless I turn it off then back to auto-detect. No biggie, but is this normal?
I experience the same thing. If I parked my car with the wiper stalk in the "automatic" position and then return, it doesn't usually sense new rain. I just to "reset" it by moving the wiper stalk into the "off" position and then back up into the automatic position.
-- Local shop said the right rear shock is "leaking just a little bit." They recommended I replace the rear suspension maybe next year. Any thoughts on this? Anything I can do in the interim to make a slow death even slower?
I believe the general rule of thumb is to replace all shocks/struts at once, not just an individual shock or just fronts or rears. I don't think there's any way to delay a shock that is leaking fluid.
I wanted to know the same thing! The only difference I could see, was the color and that some M3 bars appear to be straight. I ended up purchasing the non-m bar and just painted it black. Not sure if it performs any differently than the M3 bar but it looks and feels good, especially with coilovers and a 27mm sway bar up front!
That's what I figured, thanks! I was going to paint it black anyways.
az3579
11-30-2015, 04:33 AM
Engine coils. When to replace them? Wait till a code appears ?
New plugs installed at 120k. Car now is at 135k.
Coils are part of a tune-up at 100k mile intervals.
-- My turn signal flashes the front side indicators (yellow) AND ALSO the two white angel eyes, whether or not the lights are on. Is this correct? I think my PO replaced something in the headlights, since the side indicators have a white cover instead of yellow ('05 sedan).
The previous owner who wired them up didn't do it correctly. The angel eyes in your case were tapped into the turn signal wires. They should be tapped to ignition instead for DRL functionality or elsewhere so it doesn't blink when turn signals are activated.
sent from my Droid Turbo
derbo
11-30-2015, 09:02 AM
In the last few days when I turn on the car, there's a loud pop from the subwoofer. Speakers sound fine but haven't really played with it. One E46F thread suggested it was an amp dying. Can anyone confirm or deny that?
I had a similar issue where the grommet in the trunk drain channels was missing and water would leak on top of my Amp. The connectors were all corroded and green in color. It would cause my speakers to pop all the time after every car wash. I fixed the grommet and replaced the amp and all has been well.
-Derek
BMWCurves
11-30-2015, 09:10 AM
I had a similar issue where the grommet in the trunk drain channels was missing and water would leak on top of my Amp. The connectors were all corroded and green in color. It would cause my speakers to pop all the time after every car wash. I fixed the grommet and replaced the amp and all has been well.
Which rubber grommet are you talking about, the one on the right side that connects to the trunk lid? I want to inspect the amp but not sure 100% sure it's on the driver's side under the carpet and I don't want to go tearing it up if it's not there (the emergency triangle mount is a pain to remove). Any ideas where it might be in the coupe?
I'll also be replacing my battery, hopefully this week, so maybe that'll help.
mynamenumber
12-01-2015, 12:21 PM
Are your angel eyes lit all the time, or only while your headlights are on?
They are on when the lights are one click right, and two clicks right. Two clicks adds the proper headlight.
If they're off, though, they flash ON along with the turn signal, or OFF if they're on already.
The previous owner who wired them up didn't do it correctly. The angel eyes in your case were tapped into the turn signal wires. They should be tapped to ignition instead for DRL functionality or elsewhere so it doesn't blink when turn signals are activated.
sent from my Droid Turbo
I felt like this was the case. Is there an online reference for the correct wiring / how to access / headlights 101 that I could use to walk-through my current wiring situation?
ELCID86
12-01-2015, 03:53 PM
Engine coils. When to replace them? Wait till a code appears ?
New plugs installed at 120k. Car now is at 135k.
I did mine @185k ;-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BMWCurves
12-01-2015, 04:19 PM
Is there a way to code it so that the doors auto-unlock when I turn off the ignition? I'm getting tired of having to either pull the door handle twice or push the unlock button on the center console every time I turn off the car. I think I can code out the auto-lock feature using PASoft, but I'd prefer to preserve the auto-lock feature for safety/security reasons.
They are on when the lights are one click right, and two clicks right. Two clicks adds the proper headlight.
If they're off, though, they flash ON along with the turn signal, or OFF if they're on already.
I felt like this was the case. Is there an online reference for the correct wiring / how to access / headlights 101 that I could use to walk-through my current wiring situation?
Sounds like the PO wired it to the turn signals or headlight wiring. When I installed my Khoalty angel eyes on my '03 330Ci (pre-facelift), I followed their directions which wired the angel eyes so they were lit whenever the car was on (regardless of whether or not the headlights were lit) as well when the interior lights were on (link: http://www.khoalty.com/blog/e46-angel-eye-install/).
Which is the best place to buy OE m3 tranny mounts for my Zhp? Thinking its time to replace them as preventive maintenance
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mynamenumber
12-01-2015, 05:02 PM
Wait, so maybe a SUPER 101 question: Are Angel Eyes not standard for ZHPs? Mine is 2005, with:
522 Xenon Light Xenon-licht
Which I just assumed included the angel eye component. Is that not the case (e.g it's aftermarket)?
Karl Lazlo
12-01-2015, 05:09 PM
The S522A option code is for xenon lights. E46s were not equipped with angel eyes.
az3579
12-01-2015, 05:53 PM
Is there a way to code it so that the doors auto-unlock when I turn off the ignition? I'm getting tired of having to either pull the door handle twice or push the unlock button on the center console every time I turn off the car. I think I can code out the auto-lock feature using PASoft, but I'd prefer to preserve the auto-lock feature for safety/security reasons.
Nope. Sorry.
I live in a shady city but not even I have auto lock doors. Too few situations where it could be handy to make it worth having to pull that stupid handle twice every single time I want to get out of the car, IMO. Situational awareness trumps all of those situations anyway.
ELCID86
12-01-2015, 06:21 PM
Which is the best place to buy OE m3 tranny mounts for my Zhp? Thinking its time to replace them as preventive maintenance
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check the usual suspects. Ecs, fcp, autohouseAZ, husker...
What about engine mounts? I'm doing both soon.
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BMWCurves
12-02-2015, 05:48 AM
Nope. Sorry.
I live in a shady city but not even I have auto lock doors. Too few situations where it could be handy to make it worth having to pull that stupid handle twice every single time I want to get out of the car, IMO. Situational awareness trumps all of those situations anyway.
Oh well. Coding auto-lock off it is. Thanks for the info.
Check the usual suspects. Ecs, fcp, autohouseAZ, husker...
What about engine mounts? I'm doing both soon.
+1
Maybe check thebmwminipartstore.com as well, they seem to have pretty good prices for OEM parts.
az3579
12-02-2015, 07:24 AM
Oh well. Coding auto-lock off it is. Thanks for the info.
+1
Maybe check thebmwminipartstore.com as well, they seem to have pretty good prices for OEM parts.
You could try to use the BMW Part Number Price Comparison tool to find the best prices among all the online BMW dealers if you want Genuine Parts, or compare it to a bunch of the aftermarket retailers as well.
http://www.bmwpnpc.com/
UWISHU1
12-02-2015, 09:06 AM
Is there a way to code it so that the doors auto-unlock when I turn off the ignition? I'm getting tired of having to either pull the door handle twice or push the unlock button on the center console every time I turn off the car. I think I can code out the auto-lock feature using PASoft, but I'd prefer to preserve the auto-lock feature for safety/security reasons.
I've been wondering the same thing. It's getting really old, really fast.
I have tried at the various online vendors like the ones mentioned above but I was only able to find genuine BMW part and not Lemforder, Meyle etc, so that is what I was asking... Should have been more clear I guess...
Shawn - I have just over 110k miles on the car and when I looked at the engine mounts, they seemed OK. When do they usually go bad?
ELCID86
12-02-2015, 06:18 PM
I have tried at the various online vendors like the ones mentioned above but I was only able to find genuine BMW part and not Lemforder, Meyle etc, so that is what I was asking... Should have been more clear I guess...
Shawn - I have just over 110k miles on the car and when I looked at the engine mounts, they seemed OK. When do they usually go bad?
See if this is it.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/7287f877358b2d918564494fd4bc3667.jpg
WRT the engine mount, I'm not sure. I think it's more the age than the miles as with most of the plastic and rubber bits on these cars. While you're in there...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/3c3e34b6f326930bdf0732c78fde13d3.jpg
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BMWCurves
12-02-2015, 10:30 PM
I'm picking up a new battery from AutoZone tomorrow. The whole process of registering a battery isn't necessary on the E46 platform, correct?
Never hear of it and have been running on a Napa replacement battery that I changed out for 4+ years
Sent from my iPhone 6S using Tapatalk
See if this is it.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/7287f877358b2d918564494fd4bc3667.jpg
WRT the engine mount, I'm not sure. I think it's more the age than the miles as with most of the plastic and rubber bits on these cars. While you're in there...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/02/3c3e34b6f326930bdf0732c78fde13d3.jpg
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Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!!
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az3579
12-03-2015, 04:51 AM
I'm picking up a new battery from AutoZone tomorrow. The whole process of registering a battery isn't necessary on the E46 platform, correct?
Correct, no battery registration on the E46 platform.
johnrando
12-03-2015, 07:41 AM
Yup. That's for later models. And, no radio codes either. :)
ELCID86
12-03-2015, 08:10 AM
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[emoji106]
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BMWCurves
12-03-2015, 08:57 AM
Never hear of it and have been running on a Napa replacement battery that I changed out for 4+ years
Correct, no battery registration on the E46 platform.
Yup. That's for later models. And, no radio codes either. :)
Music to my ears, thanks fellas :thumbsup
Ssparrow
12-03-2015, 08:16 PM
I'm really wanting a leather steering wheel. Anyone ever done business with this seller? If so, how was the quality?
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/221731877614
BMWCurves
12-03-2015, 08:31 PM
I'm really wanting a leather steering wheel. Anyone ever done business with this seller? If so, how was the quality?
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/221731877614
I don't know them, but if you're looking for a leather steering wheel like the one linked (perforated leather on the sides, ///M stitching) I suggest the company I used, suggested to me by Johnrando. It was $350 plus shipping which was $15 for me. You can see pictures of it in my project thread here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=431923#post431923
It should be noted turn around time was 3-4 weeks so I opted to pay an additional $200 core charge which was given back to me when they received my alcantara wheel. Also, they add some padding to the wheel so it's slightly thicker than the stock wheel. I prefer the extra thickness, but others may not.
az3579
12-04-2015, 03:45 AM
I'm really wanting a leather steering wheel. Anyone ever done business with this seller? If so, how was the quality?
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/221731877614
That seller has very very good reviews on other forums.
KevinC
12-04-2015, 07:10 AM
Tempting. Would love to put one of these in my M5.
Ssparrow
12-04-2015, 07:29 AM
I don't know them, but if you're looking for a leather steering wheel like the one linked (perforated leather on the sides, ///M stitching) I suggest the company I used, suggested to me by Johnrando. It was $350 plus shipping which was $15 for me. You can see pictures of it in my project thread here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=431923#post431923
It should be noted turn around time was 3-4 weeks so I opted to pay an additional $200 core charge which was given back to me when they received my alcantara wheel. Also, they add some padding to the wheel so it's slightly thicker than the stock wheel. I prefer the extra thickness, but others may not.
I actually was looking at your build thread the other day trying to find the company that rewrapped your wheel, I may pull the trigger on this eBay one, the quality looks really nice and that way I can sell my old wheel
BMWCurves
12-04-2015, 08:11 AM
I actually was looking at your build thread the other day trying to find the company that rewrapped your wheel, I may pull the trigger on this eBay one, the quality looks really nice and that way I can sell my old wheel
They're DCT Motorsports. Their website is a little...early 2000s to say the least, but emailing them directly worked fine. Whichever route you go, post pics once you've got new leathery goodness installed.
Ssparrow
12-04-2015, 08:15 AM
They're DCT Motorsports. Their website is a little...early 2000s to say the least, but emailing them directly worked fine. Whichever route you go, post pics once you've got new leathery goodness installed.
I'll check em out! Thanks again guys. I'll be sure to post photos with whatever route I go!
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