The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[blalor]

I hope not. If I knew for sure, or even thought it was likely, I wouldn't do it. But there's a jack point in the under tray, the subframe looks solid, and this is one of the recommended jacking points I saw mentioned here and e46fanatics.

[Just_George]

I hate this process... Anyone wanna donate a lift to me?


Sent from my iPhone

I asked that same question on my birthday back in January - surprisingly, no takers! Have a lift purchased that was supposed to ship on April 23rd, but got delayed. Hopefully soon, although I still have work to do to make the garage ready...

[BMWCurves]

I've been through some of the threads here about brake fluid for our cars and there was a general consensus that our cars call for DOT4 low viscosity brake fluid. Have most of you switched over to it for those of you that ran normal DOT4 fluid before (ATE, Pentosin, etc)? And does it hurt our brake/clutch system to be using a higher viscosity fluid?

[Vas]

I have been using ate 200 brake fluid. Just bought some actually

[BMWCurves]

I have been using ate 200 brake fluid. Just bought some actually

I was thinking of using that with ECS' brake flush kit, but while I was looking through the brake forums I saw the thread on low viscosity (LV) brake fluid that should be used in our cars so I'm still not sure. You've never had any problems with ATE 200?

[Vas]

I was thinking of using that with ECS' brake flush kit, but while I was looking through the brake forums I saw the thread on low viscosity (LV) brake fluid that should be used in our cars so I'm still not sure. You've never had any problems with ATE 200?
Nope. No issues

[wsmeyer]

I've been through some of the threads here about brake fluid for our cars and there was a general consensus that our cars call for DOT4 low viscosity brake fluid. Have most of you switched over to it for those of you that ran normal DOT4 fluid before (ATE, Pentosin, etc)? And does it hurt our brake/clutch system to be using a higher viscosity fluid?

We discussed this in another thread and no one has ever come up with an official explanation from BMW on why our cars call for DOT4LV. Most people just use DOT4 and report that it works just fine. I have no doubt that it feels the same however, we do know 2 facts:

DOT4LV is roughly 30% thinner

BMW calls for it in all models that use our DSC unit.

The DSC unit controls the Dynamic Stability Control system and Antilock Braking System. This leads ME to believe that the internal valving requires the thinner fluid to operate properly. This would also mean that the effect on the systems of using DOT4 would not be readily apparent.

I don't have any direct evidence to back that up but it was enough for me to flush out my system and go back to DOT4LV. I drive in the snow periodically and I don't want to wonder if my ABS is working optimally.

[BMWCurves]

We discussed this in another thread and no one has ever come up with an official explanation from BMW on why our cars call for DOT4LV. Most people just use DOT4 and report that it works just fine. I have no doubt that it feels the same however, we do know 2 facts:

DOT4LV is roughly 30% thinner

BMW calls for it in all models that use our DSC unit.

The DSC unit controls the Dynamic Stability Control system and Antilock Braking System. This leads ME to believe that the internal valving requires the thinner fluid to operate properly. This would also mean that the effect on the systems of using DOT4 would not be readily apparent.

I don't have any direct evidence to back that up but it was enough for me to flush out my system and go back to DOT4LV. I drive in the snow periodically and I don't want to wonder if my ABS is working optimally.

Perfect, thank you. That's a similar conclusion I came to from reading the old thread in the brake section. I just wanted to see if anyone had any actual known failures from higher viscosity brake fluid or other issues.

[terraphantm]

We discussed this in another thread and no one has ever come up with an official explanation from BMW on why our cars call for DOT4LV. Most people just use DOT4 and report that it works just fine. I have no doubt that it feels the same however, we do know 2 facts:

DOT4LV is roughly 30% thinner

BMW calls for it in all models that use our DSC unit.

The DSC unit controls the Dynamic Stability Control system and Antilock Braking System. This leads ME to believe that the internal valving requires the thinner fluid to operate properly. This would also mean that the effect on the systems of using DOT4 would not be readily apparent.

I don't have any direct evidence to back that up but it was enough for me to flush out my system and go back to DOT4LV. I drive in the snow periodically and I don't want to wonder if my ABS is working optimally.

I think this is most important in cold weather. I found my ABS to not work well in sub zero temperatures with normal DOT4 fluid. I switched to DOT5.1 (which is about as thin as DOT4LV w/ higher boiling points), and found everything to work much better. I think it's especially important for functions that control the brakes even when the brake pedal isn't depressed (namely DSC). The MK20 cars had a precharge pump to help push the thicker fluid through.

For cars that are driven exclusively in warm weather, it probably doesn't matter much. A normal DOT4 fluid at 60ºF is going to be thinner than a DOT4LV at 0ºF

[az3579]

I've probably flushed my system more times throughout the nearly 5 years of ownership than a lot of the cars here put together (with the exception of those who do track). I've always used either ATE Super Blue (when it was still "legal") or ATE Type 200. Zero problems on the street. Zero problems on the track. Zero problems in the winter and extreme cold. 221k miles. Zero DSC and ABS malfunctions. Never heard of problems from others using the same fluids. Personally I feel this is just nitpicking at this point. There are zero repercussions to be had from using regular DOT4 based on the lack of evidence to suggest otherwise.

[wsmeyer]

I've probably flushed my system more times throughout the nearly 5 years of ownership than a lot of the cars here put together (with the exception of those who do track). I've always used either ATE Super Blue (when it was still "legal") or ATE Type 200. Zero problems on the street. Zero problems on the track. Zero problems in the winter and extreme cold. 221k miles. Zero DSC and ABS malfunctions. Never heard of problems from others using the same fluids. Personally I feel this is just nitpicking at this point. There are zero repercussions to be had from using regular DOT4 based on the lack of evidence to suggest otherwise.

I wasn't trying to imply that using DOT4 would cause DSC or ABS malfunctions, just that these systems might not be as effective as they should be.

[az3579]

I wasn't trying to imply that using DOT4 would cause DSC or ABS malfunctions, just that these systems might not be as effective as they should be.

I guess we'll just agree to disagree on this one.
It would be nice to see data on this topic since "experiences" don't show a difference. I doubt anyone has ever conducted a study in this though.

[terraphantm]

I guess we'll just agree to disagree on this one.
It would be nice to see data on this topic since "experiences" don't show a difference. I doubt anyone has ever conducted a study in this though.

Most experiences aren't particularly in depth. Most people just find the brakes still work and ABS kicks on, and assume it's fine (not saying that's the extent of your experience specifically).

I personally found ice braking to be less effective when I was running superblue. I haven't really tested DSC (and am not be sure how to do so objectively)

[az3579]

I personally found ice braking to be less effective when I was running superblue. I haven't really tested DSC (and am not be sure how to do so objectively)

To be fair, braking on ice (or any surface for that matter) is affected by a number of things. The tires you run (the amount on tread and type of tread on winter tires plays a BIG part of grip in snowy conditions), the brake pads you use (grabbiness affects how the driver applies the brakes), and the amount of driver skill even plays into braking effectiveness.

[wsmeyer]

I guess we'll just agree to disagree on this one.

I didn't know we were disagreeing. There's a good chance it doesn't make any difference and the fact that they spec it for cars doesn't have anything to do with the DSC ABS system. All we can do is speculate, but ultimately it comes down to:

Potential negative effect on ABS / DSC system <vs> benefits of higher boiling point fluids / convenience of purchasing regular DOT4

Most people agree that for a car that never sees track time the benefits of "racing" fluids or just ones with higher boiling point is dubious at best so FOR ME this was an easy choice and I just oreder Pentosin DOT4LV from Amazon.

[terraphantm]

To be fair, braking on ice (or any surface for that matter) is affected by a number of things. The tires you run (the amount on tread and type of tread on winter tires plays a BIG part of grip in snowy conditions), the brake pads you use (grabbiness affects how the driver applies the brakes), and the amount of driver skill even plays into braking effectiveness.

I am aware. At least in my case, all of those factors remained constant, except for the brake fluid

[stephenkirsh]

Any idea what this is? I unscrewed the cap. Looks like a slightly larger tire air valve.

19757

[az3579]

Any idea what this is? I unscrewed the cap. Looks like a slightly larger tire air valve.

19757
Should be for recharging the AC system.

[BMWCurves]

Yup, low pressure AC valve I believe. It's what I used to charge my AC system a few weeks ago.

[stephenkirsh]

Oh spiffy.

Is that simple to do?

[fredo]

Check the last pic on this CL ad. It appears this 2001 330i has red needles. Do you think they upgraded to a ZHP cluster at some point ?

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/5026050146.html

[stephenkirsh]

Damn is that thing even worth $1000?

[az3579]

Check the last pic on this CL ad. It appears this 2001 330i has red needles. Do you think they upgraded to a ZHP cluster at some point ?

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/5026050146.html
It's not a ZHP cluster, just painted needles.

[fredo]

Thanks, man. In addition, I just noticed the 2001 330i has up to 6000 RPM. We know the ZHP has up to 6800 RPM.

[stephenkirsh]

Wow really? Odd. Both m52 and m54 have 6500 rpm redline I thought

[az3579]

Ignore this post

[stephenkirsh]

Ignore this post

Dont push the big red button!

[ELCID86]

Ignore this post

How?


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[terraphantm]

Thanks, man. In addition, I just noticed the 2001 330i has up to 6000 RPM. We know the ZHP has up to 6800 RPM.

Rev limit was still 6500

[BMWCurves]

Is there a part number for the individual buttons on window switches? Or can you only buy them as a unit with the window switch itself? One of my window switches is scuffed and peeled around the window icon and I'd like to replace it but only if I don't have to do the whole window switch itself.

[az3579]

Is there a part number for the individual buttons on window switches? Or can you only buy them as a unit with the window switch itself? One of my window switches is scuffed and peeled around the window icon and I'd like to replace it but only if I don't have to do the whole window switch itself.
You can buy used window switch units for less than $40...

They must be replaced as a unit.

[BMWCurves]

You can buy used window switch units for less than $40...

They must be replaced as a unit.

Sounds like that'll have to be my solution, thanks!

[wsmeyer]

They do come apart easily though so even a broken one (electrically) would get you what you need.

[san]

Between S04 Pole Position and the Continental DW which tires would you guys recommend? I do not track the car but enjoy some spirited driving... Also I noticed that these 2 tires do not come with a tread life warranty like Michelin PSS does...Is this something to be concerned about?

[UdubBadger]

Both are nice. I've ran DW a few times and always like them.


GoingHAM mobile

[az3579]

Between S04 Pole Position and the Continental DW which tires would you guys recommend? I do not track the car but enjoy some spirited driving... Also I noticed that these 2 tires do not come with a tread life warranty like Michelin PSS does...Is this something to be concerned about?

S-04 all day long. I got 23k miles out of them and they were quiet as a mouse even though they're currently corded. Grip is still amazing after all this time.

[KevinC]

No experience with S-04's, but replaced PSS's with DW's recently, and I LOVE them. They are 2 lbs lighter than the PSS's and I could feel it immediately. Slightly less-jarring sidewalls than the PSS's, yet still stick and handle like stink. Will probably put them on my Z4M when its PSS's are shot.

[fredo]

DW for sure. They came with my ZHP, so I can't really compare to S04.

[SoarinZHP]

When I had my ZHP I had S04's and changed them to DW's. Personally, I prefer the DW's. The DW's had better grip and were quieter. I also preferred the stiffness of the sidewall on the DW's.

[fredo]

Hi, SoarinZHP. Do you remember when you got the last set of DW ? I wonder how many miles can you get out of them.

[san]

Thanks guys!

But is the lack of tread life warranty on both S04 and DW an issue? The PSS seem to have 6year/30,000 mile warranty but the other 2 do not have it...

[UdubBadger]

Warranties never did it for me. Never sold me or strayed me away from tires at least. Expect they all have very good tread wear rating. If you run em hard they'll burn up faster. When they go, evaluate and reconsider or buy again.


GoingHAM mobile

[fredo]

The warranty is a good indicator how long the tires will last. I'm a big fan of Michelin (currently on my e90, Mini, and Saab). If I needed to buy 4 tires today for the ZHP, that would be Michelin. Since I need to buy only 2 rear ones, then I plan to buy Conti DW so the 4 match.

[az3579]

My random question of the day:
If I replace my sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment?


Thanks guys!

But is the lack of tread life warranty on both S04 and DW an issue? The PSS seem to have 6year/30,000 mile warranty but the other 2 do not have it...


The warranty is a good indicator how long the tires will last. I'm a big fan of Michelin (currently on my e90, Mini, and Saab). If I needed to buy 4 tires today for the ZHP, that would be Michelin. Since I need to buy only 2 rear ones, then I plan to buy Conti DW so the 4 match.

Treadwear warranties are a tricky thing to comprehend. The warranty only covers defects in the manufacturing. If the treadwear warranty is 30k and the tires wear out at 25k, they probably won't offer muck to you in terms of warranty since that is still considered normal wear.

BTW, the PSS 30k warranty is ONLY if you run a square setup. Staggered setups are half that, 15k.

You rarely need to worry about tire warranty, but do not take the warranty as an indicator of how long they will last as that is false hope. How long they last entirely depends on your suspension setup, whether you run square (so you can rotate), your vehicle type, and your driving style. I'll be damned if you can get 30k out of a set of square PSS tires; I find that highly unlikely knowing how our cars chew through tires.

[UdubBadger]

I would but that's just me because I have lifetime alignments


GoingHAM mobile

[az3579]

I would but that's just me because I have lifetime alignments


GoingHAM mobile
But is it actually required, is the question. I can't spend money on it if it isn't required.

[UdubBadger]

I think more "suggested". You're not changing out the strut so I assume the camber, caster and toe won't change but if I'm wrong then yes I would think it warrants being taken in.

[danewilson77]

But is it actually required, is the question. I can't spend money on it if it isn't required.
No

[az3579]

No
Thanks guys! :thumbsup

I think more "suggested". You're not changing out the strut so I assume the camber, caster and toe won't change but if I'm wrong then yes I would think it warrants being taken in.

[derbo]

But is it actually required, is the question. I can't spend money on it if it isn't required.

I wouldn't. All it would do is wear out those nuts and bolts for the camber/toe.

[Ssparrow]

So when I had the front of my car in the air yesterday I inspected my suspension for any play, when I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 I feel no play whatsoever, but when Push/pull at 3 and 9 I feel some play. I replaced my fcabs and tie rods not even 10k ago... Any other things that could cause the play im having? The ride is a little harsh, but I figured that was from my new coilovers. No clunks when steering/braking either. I used meyle for both the tierods and fcabs if anyone was wondering.

Any ideas? Could my fcabs be toast already? The bushings didn't look like they were worn or anything, but I'm definitely having some movement.

Thanks!

[ELCID86]

How much play? The steering mechanism does move a bit.


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[Ssparrow]

Maybe that's what I'm feeling then, it's definitely not a TON of play but there is some there

[ELCID86]

Try to watch the steering wheel while you do it (or have a helper).


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[smacame]

Is it possible to get individual pieces of black cube trim? One of the pin holder bits on one of my panels is cracked. The piece wiggles itself loose occasionally so I'm considering replacing/repairing it.

The pin right behind my finger on this piece is the issue:
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag96/smacafee/2015-05-26%2010.06.52_zpsyxgminut.jpg

[danewilson77]

Is it possible to get individual pieces of black cube trim? One of the pin holder bits on one of my panels is cracked. The piece wiggles itself loose occasionally so I'm considering replacing/repairing it.

The pin right behind my finger on this piece is the issue:
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag96/smacafee/2015-05-26%2010.06.52_zpsyxgminut.jpg
Yes Sir.

PC 2

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-02-2004-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=51_3310

[blalor]

Yes Sir.

PC 2

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-02-2004-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=51_3310

$63 at ECS: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51457830187/ES117799/ :-)

[smacame]

Thanks guys! I think I'll epoxy the broken bit since it's out of sight. I knew these must have been easier to find than my first google search indicated...:rolleyes

[ryankokesh]

Is it possible to get individual pieces of black cube trim? One of the pin holder bits on one of my panels is cracked. The piece wiggles itself loose occasionally so I'm considering replacing/repairing it.

The pin right behind my finger on this piece is the issue:
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag96/smacafee/2015-05-26%2010.06.52_zpsyxgminut.jpg

Got the same problem... lemme know how it goes for ya.

[smacame]

Got some Sikaflex 1a on there and it's curing in my in-home humid chamber (aka the dishwasher). It's a little sloppy looking, but I think this'll hold. I glued this spot with 5 minute epoxy previously, but it wasn't strong enough. The Sikaflex will have a lot more give so I'm hoping it won't break if things aren't lined up perfectly.

http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag96/smacafee/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150526_221146_zps6slwmwyy.jpg

[BMWCurves]

Good luck, let us know how it works out.

[sillieidiot]

i don't have any broken pins, but on my friends car which I fixed for him. I just used jb weld. now it's on there hard as a rock lol

[smacame]

The Sikaflex treatment worked well. JB weld would also be good. The plastic doesn't seem to be too difficult to bond to.

[Ssparrow]

So my drivers side seat has some cracks beginning to develop on the bottom part of the seat. Are there any products out there that can repair the cracks? I'd like to do it as soon as possible so they don't get any worse. Grey leather btw.

[az3579]

So my drivers side seat has some cracks beginning to develop on the bottom part of the seat. Are there any products out there that can repair the cracks? I'd like to do it as soon as possible so they don't get any worse. Grey leather btw.
The best you can do is treat it regularly with Leatherique Rejuvenator and Pristine Clean. If you have some miles on your vehicle, I'd recommend replacing your seat cushion foam as well so the leather has fresh foam to stay tightly wrapped against. Deteriorating foam is one of the causes of cracks in the leather. When it wears, the leather doesn't stay as tight anymore and ends up folding. The repeated pressure of sitting on folded leather eventually makes it crack. Leather dehydration will also cause this to happen, which is what you need Leatherique for.

[Ssparrow]

That's kind of what I figured. How hard is it to swap out the seat cushion/leather bottom? I've been keeping my eye out for some used grey leather seats but haven't found any that are in better shape than mine are

[ClimRox]

Does anyone know the location of a good DIY for removing exterior B-pillar trim? I found this: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=379663, however it is for an E39 so I don't know if it really applies.

[hcbeck2689]

Hope this is a good thread for this..
So I have been thinking about CAI awhile and have decided to do a little project based off of spoonerDee's DIY CAI thread http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6884

I have access to some aluminum sheet but also started thinking about lexan or plexiglass. How do you guys think that would look? Clear shield with metal angle on corners.
Thoughts..?


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[bshovers]

Is anyone running akg red tranny mounts?

Is anyone running Megan racing adjustable rear control arms?

Thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated before I pull the trigger on a good deal.


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[UdubBadger]

I'm running all AKG bushings on my M

[blalor]

Does that bend the subframe at all?
19953
The circled area is where the indentation is on the aluminum under tray on my car (I'm assuming all ZHPs have the newer tray and not the tubular brace). So you're lifting the front of the car by the subframe. Looks pretty solid to me, and if it *does* bend, it's easier to replace than the unibody. :)

[stephenkirsh]

Damn that's pretty clean down there.

[blalor]

Thanks. Southern car! No rust, but all the exterior rubber top-side is shot. :-P It's such a pleasure to work on it without having to fight with rusted fasteners. Hopefully it stays this way…

[stephenkirsh]

My car is a california car and it's not that clean! Granted I've had oil, coolant and power steering leaks lol

[stephenkirsh]

I need engine and trans mounts. My #1 priority is longevity. I'm going M3 engine mounts but I don't know what to get for trans mounts. Suggestions?

[NoVAphotog]

I need engine and trans mounts. My #1 priority is longevity. I'm going M3 engine mounts but I don't know what to get for trans mounts. Suggestions?

If priority is longevity than the oem M3 mounts are still rubber, the longevity trade off is usually the polyurethane ones, but than you get more NVA.

[BMWCurves]

If priority is longevity than the oem M3 mounts are still rubber, the longevity trade off is usually the polyurethane ones, but than you get more NVA.

What is NVA? I've seen that acronym thrown around here a lot but don't know what it stands for. I assume it's associated with noise and vibration?

[NoVAphotog]

What is NVA? I've seen that acronym thrown around here a lot but don't know what it stands for. I assume it's associated with noise and vibration?

NVH** Sorry. Noise, Vibration and Harshness.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness

[stephenkirsh]

If priority is longevity than the oem M3 mounts are still rubber, the longevity trade off is usually the polyurethane ones, but than you get more NVA.

Yup, m3 on the engine mounts.

What about trans? Are there m3 ones that work on an auto non-m?

[Vas]

I am OE M3 engine mounts and trans mounts. E46 or E92 will work.

[stephenkirsh]

Oh spiffy. Found the m3 trans. Didn't realize those worked too.

Thx guys.

[BMWCurves]

NVH** Sorry. Noise, Vibration and Harshness.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise,_vibration,_and_harshness

Perfect, thanks!

[az3579]

I need engine and trans mounts. My #1 priority is longevity. I'm going M3 engine mounts but I don't know what to get for trans mounts. Suggestions?


I am OE M3 engine mounts and trans mounts. E46 or E92 will work.

I have M3 engine and tranny mounts as well. They are just perfect.

[ryankokesh]

I have M3 engine and tranny mounts as well. They are just perfect.

How do I know when I need these? Hah...


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[az3579]

How do I know when I need these? Hah...


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Motor mounts will be obvious; engine will vibrate more in various instances. In my case, I got some nasty vibration above 4k RPM when I accelerated.

Tranny mounts - I just had them done because they were original at the time with 164k on them. Little did I realize 40k later that I had already done them (forgot to check my log) and had them replaced again. Oops...
I never felt any problems with the tranny mounts. I wouldn't even know what to look/feel for.

[UdubBadger]

Nice

[cakM3]

Motor mounts will be obvious; engine will vibrate more in various instances. In my case, I got some nasty vibration above 4k RPM when I accelerated.

Tranny mounts - I just had them done because they were original at the time with 164k on them. Little did I realize 40k later that I had already done them (forgot to check my log) and had them replaced again. Oops...
I never felt any problems with the tranny mounts. I wouldn't even know what to look/feel for.

Guess I need to consider replacing both my motor mounts and tranny mounts sometime.... I'm sure they are OE but I haven't had any vibration issues with my ZHP.... what do you think BP? You've driven it...

[az3579]

Guess I need to consider replacing both my motor mounts and tranny mounts sometime.... I'm sure they are OE but I haven't had any vibration issues with my ZHP.... what do you think BP? You've driven it...
Your ZHP feels fine to me. If you aren't getting any vibrations then you're still good to go. :thumbsup

[cakM3]

Your ZHP feels fine to me. If you aren't getting any vibrations then you're still good to go. :thumbsup

Sounds good to me :thumbsup Thanks BP!

[az3579]

Sounds good to me :thumbsup Thanks BP!
No problem, amigo.

[stephenkirsh]

My engine mounts are shot but I don't notice any vibration or anything. My trans mounts are destroyed and causing a clunk.

[Vas]

Guess I need to consider replacing both my motor mounts and tranny mounts sometime.... I'm sure they are OE but I haven't had any vibration issues with my ZHP.... what do you think BP? You've driven it...

At your mileage I would replace them. Rubber gets old and cracks. Then the mounts leak out the fluid inside of them and break apart.

As far as trans mounts, old ones will be squashed when you look at them. That results in the transmission sitting at an angle.

100k is what I would run on mounts. I did it on both of my zhps and noticed that they were already asking to be replaced. With the OE M3 engine and trans mounts, the car is much nicer to drive. Engine moves less and the shifter from the stiffer mounts feels much better at least to me.

[ELCID86]

At your mileage I would replace them. Rubber gets old and cracks. Then the mounts leak out the fluid inside of them and break apart.

As far as trans mounts, old ones will be squashed when you look at them. That results in the transmission sitting at an angle.

100k is what I would run on mounts. I did it on both of my zhps and noticed that they were already asking to be replaced. With the OE M3 engine and trans mounts, the car is much nicer to drive. Engine moves less and the shifter from the stiffer mounts feels much better at least to me.

Come help me do mine!


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[danewilson77]

I'm at 205k with original mounts.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

[Vas]

Come help me do mine!


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Sure thing. It wasn't bad to replace them.

[stephenkirsh]

I'm at 205k with original mounts.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

Come drive in California for a week, we'll fix that for Ya.

[danewilson77]

Come drive in California for a week, we'll fix that for Ya.
[emoji12]

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

[hcbeck2689]

After seeing so many pictures on here I have noticed that most people have the non-projector fog lights. Is this for looks or just the way they were bought? I have projector fogs and like the way they look plus they have a nice light out put


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[ryankokesh]

After seeing so many pictures on here I have noticed that most people have the non-projector fog lights. Is this for looks or just the way they were bought? I have projector fogs and like the way they look plus they have a nice light out put


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They came with just reflector type housings. My PO installed projectors but I went back for the OEM look. Plus in my case the projector output was pretty poor.


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[hcbeck2689]

Ok, so all ZHP's came with reflector housings?


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[ryankokesh]

Ok, so all ZHP's came with reflector housings?


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Yup, believe so.


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[stephenkirsh]

Yea all 330s except for a few early ones have the same fogs.

[hcbeck2689]

Yea all 330s except for a few early ones have the same fogs.

I have a 2003. Everything on my car was original to my knowledge when I bought it. Except for the OEM xenons that the mechanic I bought it from replaced with halogens because of the burnt bulbs.

So maybe mine are original
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[sillieidiot]

it's not, none of the e46s came with projectors for fogs.

[az3579]

Ok, so all ZHP's came with reflector housings?


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Halogen is OE.
Projectors are aftermarket.

[NorCal-Dimitri]

Will any E46 end link fit our cars?

[danewilson77]

Will any E46 end link fit our cars?
If suspension is stock, yes.

Not sure what you mean by "any" though.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

[hcbeck2689]

What should I put on the the bolts I use to tighten my exhaust on? Locktight? Anti-seize?


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[san]

After how many miles does the yellow oil level light come on -

1) if ccv is blocked
2) under normal conditions


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[NorCal-Dimitri]

If suspension is stock, yes.

Not sure what you mean by "any" though.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

I mean as far as E46 M3, 325ci, 323i, 330xi, etc. Just wondering if they all fit each other.

Thanks!

[Just_George]

San, I don't think it's mileage based at all, but rather is entirely dependent on the oil level detected by the sensor.


After how many miles does the yellow oil level light come on -

1) if ccv is blocked
2) under normal conditions


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[alexandre]

San, I don't think it's mileage based at all, but rather is entirely dependent on the oil level detected by the sensor.

Yup. You'd burn more if CCV was getting clogged. Turns on when it gets close to a quart low.

[BMWCurves]

Yup. You'd burn more if CCV was getting clogged. Turns on when it gets close to a quart low.

Or if it's like mine, the yellow oil light comes on intermittently because it's probably faulty since my oil sits right at the "full" mark on the dipstick.

[san]

San, I don't think it's mileage based at all, but rather is entirely dependent on the oil level detected by the sensor.


Yup. You'd burn more if CCV was getting clogged. Turns on when it gets close to a quart low.


Or if it's like mine, the yellow oil light comes on intermittently because it's probably faulty since my oil sits right at the "full" mark on the dipstick.

Ok, so when do I check for the oil level? Immediately after I turn the engine off? Or a minute or two after turning the engine off? Or when the engine is cold?


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[danewilson77]

Ok, so when do I check for the oil level? Immediately after I turn the engine off? Or a minute or two after turning the engine off? Or when the engine is cold?


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10-50 minutes after shutting car off.

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[Just_George]

10-50 minutes after shutting car off.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

What he said (needless to say....he's Dane, after all!) You want the oil to be hot, or at least warm, then give it enough time to drain completely back into the pan before checking. Now aren't you glad you have a dipstick instead of having to rely on a sensor that may or may not be working? :thumbup

[san]

10-50 minutes after shutting car off.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge


What he said (needless to say....he's Dane, after all!) You want the oil to be hot, or at least warm, then give it enough time to drain completely back into the pan before checking. Now aren't you glad you have a dipstick instead of having to rely on a sensor that may or may not be working? :thumbup

Thanks Dane and Dave...

Yup, that is one of the reason I like the E46 platform...


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[alexandre]

10-50 minutes after shutting car off.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

Or you wait for light :shifty

[danewilson77]

Or you wait for light :shifty
:facepalm

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[stephenkirsh]

I usually wait for the car to stall. Is that bad?

[ClimRox]

I'm planning on doing a cooling/power steering refresh this weekend. On the cooling refresh: I have an A/T. Does anyone know if the A/T thermostat that sits in the expansion tank/mounting plate "clips in" or is simply held in by the pressure between the expansion thank and the plate? I haven't found a DIY thread yet that shows exactly how to install this part.

[danewilson77]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/16/8de1cc3f4fb5e28489742727eb15250c.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/16/3e92f52605ca94e62e59f5cf95f582c7.jpg

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[danewilson77]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/16/256c54ac931fa496f1a21437dd81aa15.jpg

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge

[ClimRox]

^ Ahh... I always forget about the BavAuto blogs/video. Thanks!! :roundel

[BMWCurves]

I've ordered Z4M FCABs and once I swap out all the suspension components I plan to get an alignment. Is there anything I should tell the indy shop that's doing the alignment beyond that the FCABs will have added caster? Does anyone know what the acceptable added caster should be post-alignment?

[ELCID86]

He'll most likely figure the caster can come into spec as my guy did.

Here is where mine ended up.

20346


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[ELCID86]

And Colin's

20347


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[stephenkirsh]

I've ordered Z4M FCABs and once I swap out all the suspension components I plan to get an alignment. Is there anything I should tell the indy shop that's doing the alignment beyond that the FCABs will have added caster? Does anyone know what the acceptable added caster should be post-alignment?

Yea I didn't tell my shop, but they're really good about upgrading e46 non-m bushings to M ones, so they're used to it.

[BMWCurves]

That was the exact info I was looking for, thank you both!

[NickZHP]

Today I bought r134a refrigerant (without stop leak) and a pressure gauge to recharge my A/C system but now Im seeing forum posts warning users to just take it to a shop to get the system recharged instead of doing a DIY. Has anyone here recharged their A/C? I understand you can break the compressor but is it really that risky?

[BMWCurves]

Today I bought r134a refrigerant (without stop leak) and a pressure gauge to recharge my A/C system but now Im seeing forum posts warning users to just take it to a shop to get the system recharged instead of doing a DIY. Has anyone here recharged their A/C? I understand you can break the compressor but is it really that risky?

I did it myself. I was wary as well, but so far no issues. I didn't use a separate pressure gauge, I used one that came on the nozzle of the bottle I bought and just followed the instructions, shaking the bottle 90 degrees as I filled the low pressure valve. If it was anything more than charging it I would take it to an indy, I wouldn't really want to mess with anything AC.

[smokinfastlegend]

Mirrors won't move with switch but when put into reverse, passenger mirror moves down like normal. Possible module fault that needs to be cleared or will the module need to be replaced?

[fredo]

My ZHP has the factory NAV installed. The previous owner said the maps stopped working because the DVD got scratches. I found a new DVD on eBay for $13, but I'm not sure the unit will scratch the new DVD too. Is it a good idea to buy the DVD and try ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-E46-E53-E65-E66-E83-E85-E86-Navigation-2015-DVD-EAST-WEST-Map-Update-/201347965874?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item2ee14623b2&vxp=mtr

[johnrando]

PM-ing you Fredo.

[ecrabb]

OOohhh, I had a question about nav, too. Mine is super, super-old. My house was built in 2005 - the year after the car was built - and my street (and in fact most of my suburb) isn't in the GPS. Could be an age thing, or it could be the east/west thing. Should I buy the DVD's fredo linked to on eBay? Are there also updates to the nav system itself? Better yet, is there an FAQ or info page*on nav somewhere so I don't have to ask a slew of stupid questions? ;)

I guess I could get out the manual. ;)

SC

[NoVAphotog]

What is this dangling connector/cable and where does it go?

20364

[ELCID86]

Can't quite tell. Is there one on the firewall side of Mr DISA?


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[wsmeyer]

Can't quite tell. Is there one on the firewall side of Mr DISA?

+1

That is definitely the DISA connector

[NoVAphotog]

+1

That is definitely the DISA connector
Well apparently our cars don't need that at all since it's been disconnected for 1000+ miles...

Sent from an HTC One

[johnrando]

I've always heard not to buy the non OEM ones. They say it can mess things up. Who knows if that's true.

sent from mobile device

[az3579]

Mirrors won't move with switch but when put into reverse, passenger mirror moves down like normal. Possible module fault that needs to be cleared or will the module need to be replaced?

Probably a faulty driver's side mirror motor/cabling. You may get additional odd behaviors such as the passenger side mirror tilting down and staying there when taken out of reverse, or you coming to the car and finding it in weird adjustments.

[ClimRox]

Do we have alternator cooling ducts on our cars? I'm missing mine if we do.

[az3579]

Do we have alternator cooling ducts on our cars? I'm missing mine if we do.

No, at least not from the factory.

[ClimRox]

^ Thanks. Sometimes RealOEM makes me think I'm missing parts when I'm not.

[Vas]

Well apparently our cars don't need that at all since it's been disconnected for 1000+ miles...

Sent from an HTC One
Is that what it was ?

[az3579]

Is that what it was ?

Probably left disconnected after the Stett boot install.

[Vas]

And drove without the disa working. Shouldn't it throw a code. ?

[ELCID86]

And drove without the disa working. Shouldn't it throw a code. ?

Right. That's what we thought.


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[rkneeshaw]

I think the fuel tank breather valve connector looks like that too. Connects under our intake manifolds I believe.

[ELCID86]

Daniel? :dunno

[NoVAphotog]

Daniel? :dunno

Haven't hooked it back up yet. Car runs fine, no issues. Will do tomorrow after work and take some more pics/drive afterwards and see if I notice anything different :dunno 600+ miles since Stett boot install, no codes, no rough idle, pulls all the way through rev range, no hiccups, etc...are we sure it's the DISA connector?

[Fenrir]

Hey guys, since coming back to home to visit, I've noticed a weird issue.

Here in southern VA, it's been raining heavily every other day. In the mornings after the rainy nights, my clutch slips above 4k rpm when I first drive the car. After about 20min this goes away. I've dropped it into 5th at 10mph with zero slipping after the "warmup" period.

I suspect that due to the heavy rain and the fact that my folk's property is fairly wet anyways that it may be moisture in the bell housing.

Any ideas?

[az3579]

Sounds unlikely, Ben... but anything's possible I guess.
It was my understanding that the only cause of a slipping clutch was wear. :dunno

I'm curious to see what the cause is.

[ClimRox]

When I removed my expansion tank cap in order to do a cooling system overhaul this weekend, I noticed the indicator stick was below minimum, but when I subsequently removed the bleeder screw the stick popped up above max (all when the engine was cool). I'm confused. Which is the true reading, and why did it do this? I could hear pressure release in the removal of both parts.

[san]

When I removed my expansion tank cap in order to do a cooling system overhaul this weekend, I noticed the indicator stick was below minimum, but when I subsequently removed the bleeder screw the stick popped up above max (all when the engine was cool). I'm confused. Which is the true reading, and why did it do this? I could hear pressure release in the removal of both parts.

I think the true indication is without removing the bleeder screw... As far as I know you should hear the pressure release only if the coolant is hot, but since u said the engine is cool, I am not really sure...


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[Fenrir]

Sounds unlikely, Ben... but anything's possible I guess.
It was my understanding that the only cause of a slipping clutch was wear. :dunno

I'm curious to see what the cause is.
Yeah that was my understanding as well. I baby the clutch though so I wonder what would cause it to wear so quickly. It was my understanding that it has less than 50k miles on it.

[hcbeck2689]

I know this has been asked and I've seen it before, so forgive me.
How much is a good price to pay for a set of m3 mirrors?
If it's more than I want to pay then maybe someone else will want to snatch them up. :broke


-Holden

[johnrando]

Not sure. What are you looking at, I might be interested?

sent from mobile device

[hcbeck2689]

He didn't even have them. :smh
I am wanting to get some eventually though. I have heard everyone say tibia a pain to retrofit, but as long as it gets done


-Holden

[johnrando]

Sedans are a pain, coupes are ready fit. I think I've seen good ones around the high $200's? I don't want to set the wrong expectations.

sent from mobile device

[ClimRox]

I think the true indication is without removing the bleeder screw... As far as I know you should hear the pressure release only if the coolant is hot, but since u said the engine is cool, I am not really sure...


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Thanks san. I agree that it should be without removing the bleeder screw. It's weird how the level changed when I removed the bleeder screw though.

Speaking of, I have all of my parts in today, and will fill and bleed the system tonight. For those that are experienced in cooling system bleeding, do you actually remove the bleeder screw when filling, or simply loosen it?

[az3579]

Speaking of, I have all of my parts in today, and will fill and bleed the system tonight. For those that are experienced in cooling system bleeding, do you actually remove the bleeder screw when filling, or simply loosen it?

Just loosen it enough for the fluid (and air) to come out. Once it stops "spitting" and just has a steady stream of fluid, it can be tightened back up and you're good to go.

[ClimRox]

^ Awesome. Thanks!

[johnrando]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/75c82ba280726bf1f003cffd0b27fb51.jpg

William said it might be this connector that's hanging

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[ELCID86]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/75c82ba280726bf1f003cffd0b27fb51.jpg

William said it might be this connector that's hanging

sent from mobile device

Ah. Yes, very likely.


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[NoVAphotog]

John, it was this one:

20485

No noticeable effects on driving before or after...

[NickZHP]

So the fabric on my C pillars are coming off, I noticed most old threads mentioned the pillars are cheap to buy and around $35-40 but now I only see them available for $65-80. Does anyone know where I can get them cheaper?

[fredo]

I have the same issue. Shawn (elcid86) said you can peel the fabric from the C pillars and it will look much better. But I didn't try this yet.

[stephenkirsh]

So the fabric on my C pillars are coming off, I noticed most old threads mentioned the pillars are cheap to buy and around $35-40 but now I only see them available for $65-80. Does anyone know where I can get them cheaper?

They have gone up in price a lot lately. I'm wondering if the original ones are all falling apart and it's caused a supply/demand issue.



I have the same issue. Shawn (elcid86) said you can peel the fabric from the C pillars and it will look much better. But I didn't try this yet.

Many people have said that. The material underneath is also black. I bet 99.8% of people couldn't tell a difference.

I tried fabric gluing mine back together. Didn't work and now it looks terrible. Oh well.

[ELCID86]

I peeled them from Colin's car and it's a lot less noticeable than the flapping. ECSTuning was always the go-to place to by them.


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[NickZHP]

I just bought some 3M adhesive spray, hopefully I can get it to look better.

[ELCID86]

I just bought some 3M adhesive spray, hopefully I can get it to look better.

Just be careful to stay it on and let it become tacky (not wet) before your lay the cloth back down or it will soak thru and leave splotches (don't ask... :facepalm )


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[NickZHP]

Just finished reinstalling it back into the car. Doesn't look amazing but sure is a lot better than the fabric hanging down or spending $140+. I don't think anyone would notice any flaws unless they specifically were looking for them. I'll see how it holds up in the next few months...

[az3579]

Many people have said that. The material underneath is also black. I bet 99.8% of people couldn't tell a difference.



I ripped mine off; you can't really tell. It just looks like it needs a vacuum.

[johnrando]

Interesting Daniel. I wonder what that connection does? And yup, it sure does look exactly like the DISA one.

[wsmeyer]

Interesting Daniel. I wonder what that connection does? And yup, it sure does look exactly like the DISA one.

He circled the DISA connection in the photo. Some people say the NJ 4k fix disables the DISA so this may be why he doesn't feel a difference.

[johnrando]

Oh, I missed that it was the DISA.

[san]

Approximately how much engine oil is drained out during an oil change? I mean in terms of quarts...


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[az3579]

Approximately how much engine oil is drained out during an oil change? I mean in terms of quarts...


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I would hope around 6-6.5 quarters... the filter soaks up a good half quart in itself.

[san]

I would hope around 6-6.5 quarters... the filter soaks up a good half quart in itself.

Thanks BP!


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[az3579]

Thanks BP!


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No problem. The actual oil capacity is 6.5 quarts but it'll take 7 because of the oil filter. I figure when you drain you'll get between 6 and 6.5 quarts out because of oil that may still be left in the system after draining. Just FYI.

[fredo]

My radio/NAV unit is acting up. The radio stops playing music at random, maybe 5 secs or less and then continues to play. Any clues what's happening ? I didn't try the CD yet, not sure if it's being affected as well.

[stephenkirsh]

Is there a way to tighten the rear view mirror? It moves when I go over train tracks.

[ELCID86]

My radio/NAV unit is acting up. The radio stops playing music at random, maybe 5 secs or less and then continues to play. Any clues what's happening ? I didn't try the CD yet, not sure if it's being affected as well.

Are you using an Aux jack? Otherwise I'm no help.


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[BMWCurves]

Is there a way to tighten the rear view mirror? It moves when I go over train tracks.

As far as I know, if you mean the ball and socket joint where you actually adjust the mirror, there isn't a way to tighten that. It's just plastic on plastic held in by friction and is probably worn. If you mean where the mirror meets the windshield, you may be able to replace the spring clip on it, but I'm not sure. Sorry I'm not more help.

[stephenkirsh]

Yea it's the ball joint.

I bought the mirror from a member here, was hoping for ...something :(

[BMWCurves]

Yea it's the ball joint.

I bought the mirror from a member here, was hoping for ...something :(

If you go down the list of possible solutions and really can't think of anything else, you could get some bondo or some sort of high-wear paste and just stick a thin layer all over the ball on the ball joint to just give it some added thickness and hopefully more friction.

[stephenkirsh]

Yea that's what I was thinking, just need to figure out what kind of adhesive to put in it that won't glue it down but won't wear out in a week.

[Vas]

Thinking of taking a road trip from Virginia to Florida for a vacation and driving the zhp. Rough idea on what maintenance I should be caught up on?

Latest thing I have replaced was the fuel pump. I am coming up on an oil change so I was going to do oil filter/oil, air filter, cabin filter and a new fuel filter. Any other suggestions?

[ELCID86]

Thinking of taking a road trip from Virginia to Florida for a vacation and driving the zhp. Rough idea on what maintenance I should be caught up on?

Latest thing I have replaced was the fuel pump. I am coming up on an oil change so I was going to do oil filter/oil, air filter, cabin filter and a new fuel filter. Any other suggestions?

Cooling system would be my main worry. I assume it's good on your car(s).


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[Vas]

Cooling system would be my main worry. I assume it's good on your car(s).


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Well I owned my Imola sedan for roughly 37k and the previous owner replaced the cooling system using factory parts before i bought it. Don't see any leaks and the level is steady in the expansion tank. 60k is the recomended replacement right ?

[ELCID86]

Well I owned my Imola sedan for roughly 37k and the previous owner replaced the cooling system using factory parts before i bought it. Don't see any leaks and the level is steady in the expansion tank. 60k is the recomended replacement right ?

I think it would be fine.; assuming he did pulleys and belts.


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[terraphantm]

Well I owned my Imola sedan for roughly 37k and the previous owner replaced the cooling system using factory parts before i bought it. Don't see any leaks and the level is steady in the expansion tank. 60k is the recomended replacement right ?

60k is pretty aggressive. 75-100k is fine IMO

[Vas]

Thanks guys.

[fredo]

Are you using an Aux jack? Otherwise I'm no help.


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Negative, no aux jack involved. Mmhh ... I will test the cd unit and report back.

[fredo]

Thanks guys.

I assume your tires and brakes are good. How many hours is the trip ?

[ELCID86]

Negative, no aux jack involved. Mmhh ... I will test the cd unit and report back.

And?


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[Vas]

I assume your tires and brakes are good. How many hours is the trip ?
12-13 hour road trip. Going to look at the tires and the brakes.

[BMWCurves]

I'm late chiming in but everyone's pretty much covered it: cooling system items, belts if they're old, tires, brakes, motor oil if it's due.

[stephenkirsh]

SPARE TIRE PRESSURE!

even I forget to check that one all the time

[BMWCurves]

SPARE TIRE PRESSURE!

even I forget to check that one all the time

Oooh good reminder. I need to check my donut.

[Jconlin16]

I'm looking at getting a new set of apex EC7's for up front. I'm looking at the 18x8.5's but there are two offsets. Et35 & et 45, which would you choose?

[Vas]

Personal preference. I would do +35

[UdubBadger]

35 for sure


GoingHAM mobile

[Jconlin16]

Personal preference. I would do +35


35 for sure


GoingHAM mobile

Appreciate the input guys.

[az3579]

45 and use spacers to put the wheel where you want it. If you have a fitment problem with 35's it's not as easy to fix.

sent from my Droid Turbo

[UdubBadger]

Yeah but he won't have fit problems on 35s. Can still even space those out if desired. Just stick to oem tire sizes


GoingHAM mobile

[az3579]

Yeah but he won't have fit problems on 35s. Can still even space those out if desired. Just stick to oem tire sizes


GoingHAM mobile

35 is bleeding edge. I had to make modifications to make my et35 BBS' fit, though my car is lowered (not sure if his is). With stock suspension I suspect there'd be enough suspension travel to still rub at least a little bit, but I never had stock suspension so I don't know.

[Jconlin16]

35 is bleeding edge. I had to make modifications to make my et35 BBS' fit, though my car is lowered (not sure if his is). With stock suspension I suspect there'd be enough suspension travel to still rub at least a little bit, but I never had stock suspension so I don't know.

Currently lowered with coilovers, running 18x9 et 42 EC7s. Had to throw on a 7mm spacer to keep it from rubbing on the inside.

[az3579]

Somehow I missed that you said you're only buying fronts. For fronts, you could do et35 all day with no problem. Oops :facepalm
The rears are usually the wheels to give problems with clearance, but you're already set on that so all's well.

[Jconlin16]

Somehow I missed that you said you're only buying fronts. For fronts, you could do et35 all day with no problem. Oops :facepalm
The rears are usually the wheels to give problems with clearance, but you're already set on that so all's well.

Ha no worries, thanks!

[BMWCurves]

I'm working to put my BMW Performance intake into my car and I'm running into some trouble. The tab next to the expansion tank describing the proper coolant levels (pictured below) is too tall and blocking the top intake funnel. The official installation instructions from BMW (attached) state in step 3 "Installing Performance Air Cleaner System" in the second box to "Unclip tab (1)." For the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove it. Does anyone know how?

Tab next to the expansion tank cap, supposedly removable:
http://i.imgur.com/2y1cGez.jpg

BMW Installation Instructions:
20765

EDIT:
Nevermind, that sucker just needed a good yanking.

[johnrando]

Yes, it just slides of IIRC.

[BMWCurves]

New problem! When I originally had a PPI for my car back at the end of March, the mechanic found "a light clicking nose from the rear of the car possible driveline CV." It was faint at that time but now it's become more prominent so I would like to fix it. I'm assuming from the description the mechanic meant one of the rear CV joints, but maybe he meant where the driveshaft meets the differential? Rooting around the interwebs the alternate possibilities seem to be worn differential bushings or the subframe bushings. Any alternative thoughts? I tried getting the sound caught on my phone, but the mic just isn't good enough.

[san]

New problem! When I originally had a PPI for my car back at the end of March, the mechanic found "a light clicking nose from the rear of the car possible driveline CV." It was faint at that time but now it's become more prominent so I would like to fix it. I'm assuming from the description the mechanic meant one of the rear CV joints, but maybe he meant where the driveshaft meets the differential? Rooting around the interwebs the alternate possibilities seem to be worn differential bushings or the subframe bushings. Any alternative thoughts? I tried getting the sound caught on my phone, but the mic just isn't good enough.


Not sure if ur talking about the same sort of issue I had but hope this helps

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14053


To summarize, it was the diff bushings (all 3)... It is easy to inspect the big carrier bushing at the back of the diff, but the 2 small ones at the front are not that easy to inspect...

But unfortunately replacing the bushings did not cure the clunk... Took it to an Indy shop and the mechanic said it is most likely the driver side rear axle as it has some slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


Also the link I posted was my first post on the zhpmafia website so ul see that I asked a lot of stupid questions...[emoji14]

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[stephenkirsh]

Any recommendations on diff bushings? Not sure I wanna go poly. Turner uses myle HD. Are those any good?

My number one concern is durability. I don't want to have to do this again in 75k.

[san]

I went with lemforder


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[BMWCurves]

Not sure if ur talking about the same sort of issue I had but hope this helps

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14053


To summarize, it was the diff bushings (all 3)... It is easy to inspect the big carrier bushing at the back of the diff, but the 2 small ones at the front are not that easy to inspect...

But unfortunately replacing the bushings did not cure the clunk... Took it to an Indy shop and the mechanic said it is most likely the driver side rear axle as it has some slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


Also the link I posted was my first post on the zhpmafia website so ul see that I asked a lot of stupid questions...[emoji14]

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Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?

I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:

1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:

https://streamable.com/l570

2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
https://streamable.com/odtp


Any recommendations on diff bushings? Not sure I wanna go poly. Turner uses myle HD. Are those any good?

My number one concern is durability. I don't want to have to do this again in 75k.

Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.

[san]

Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?

I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:

1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:

https://streamable.com/l570

2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
https://streamable.com/odtp



Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.

That sounds like diff bushing to me... But can never be certain until u inspect it... Shouldn't take u more than 15-20 min... All u need to do is to jack up the rear of the car and try to inspect it visually...

Replacing the diff bushing on mine helped decrease the clunk a little but not did not eliminate it completely... Indy mechanic said it's probably the driver side axle with a a bad cv joint as it has slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Trackerpo9]

Is this the mic at the top of the picture already installed? Do all of our cars have this? If not, why would this be in there unplugged? Looking at installing oem bluetooth because useless buttons drive me crazy! Will be tearing into trunk when I have more time to investigate. 20782

[johnrando]

That's where it would be but not all cars came with. In fact, if you don't have factory Bluetooth I would guess you wouldn't have the mic.

sent from mobile device

[stephenkirsh]

Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?

I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:

1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:

https://streamable.com/l570

2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
https://streamable.com/odtp



Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.

There is no m3 bushing that fits a zhp, that's why I'm stumped.

[BMWCurves]

I doubt there is, but was there ever a console insert that had a single cup holder and the eurotray? Something like this:

http://i.imgur.com/E3mmtQc.jpg

I like the use of a single cup holder but would love to have the eurotray as well. My guess is I'd have to custom fabricate it, I can't seem to find any manufactured part.

[az3579]

I doubt there is, but was there ever a console insert that had a single cup holder and the eurotray? Something like this:

http://i.imgur.com/E3mmtQc.jpg

I like the use of a single cup holder but would love to have the eurotray as well. My guess is I'd have to custom fabricate it, I can't seem to find any manufactured part.

I've been dying for one of these for the longest time. Really wish they made a tray/cupholder.

[san]

I bought a gruppe m intake last week from eBay and it came with a k&n filter and the filter looks quite bad... Which replacement filter would u guys recommended??

[bshovers]

Would M3 HSD / Eibach coil overs fit our cars?

[BMWCurves]

I've been dying for one of these for the longest time. Really wish they made a tray/cupholder.

Same. I've wanted one since my '03 330Ci. You can only use the front cup holder while the armrest is down and I use that one a lot, but the rest of the console would have a lot more utility with the euro tray. I'm seriously tempted to buy the short euro tray and try and custom fab it with my current cup holders but I have no experience with bondo/whatever you might use to do it.

[az3579]

Same. I've wanted one since my '03 330Ci. You can only use the front cup holder while the armrest is down and I use that one a lot, but the rest of the console would have a lot more utility with the euro tray. I'm seriously tempted to buy the short euro tray and try and custom fab it with my current cup holders but I have no experience with bondo/whatever you might use to do it.
My beef with the cupholders is that the front one is useless. It gets in the way of my shifting. I don't have an armrest installed though so I always use the rear.

sent from my Droid Turbo

[ELCID86]

I've been dying for one of these for the longest time. Really wish they made a tray/cupholder.

I like the looks of that one.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[BMWCurves]

My beef with the cupholders is that the front one is useless. It gets in the way of my shifting. I don't have an armrest installed though so I always use the rear.

So you'd want it the other way around, with the euro tray closest to the shifter and the cup holder in the rear? Interesting. I know what you mean, things in there definitely get in the way when shifting if too large but I get used to it pretty easily.


I like the looks of that one.

It was custom fabricated by a guy over on E46Fanatics back in 2010. He never posted about the finished product, but he describes how he cannibalized the OE cup holders and sawed them in half and attached the short euro tray

Link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=565102


I bought a gruppe m intake last week from eBay and it came with a k&n filter and the filter looks quite bad... Which replacement filter would u guys recommended??


Would M3 HSD / Eibach coil overs fit our cars?

Sorry San and bshovers, I don't want your questions to get lost in the thread while I yap on about euro trays/cup holders. I don't actually know, unfortunately, but someone with more knowledge will surely chime in soon.

[stephenkirsh]

Is there a need to change/upgrade differential bolts when replacing the bushings?




Would M3 HSD / Eibach coil overs fit our cars?

I think they do but they're set up for a different car. It's wider and heavier than non-Ms

[BMWCurves]

Is it possible to swap out the window buttons (like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-3-SERIES-WINDOW-SWITCH-BUTTON-COVER-/151758089563) or do I have to buy a whole new switch? One of my buttons has a lot of the black paint scraped away from the previous owner.

[stephenkirsh]

Is it possible to swap out the window buttons (like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-3-SERIES-WINDOW-SWITCH-BUTTON-COVER-/151758089563) or do I have to buy a whole new switch? One of my buttons has a lot of the black paint scraped away from the previous owner.

Well, buy that and let us know!

An OEM part will only be the whole switch, though.

[BMWCurves]

Well, buy that and let us know!

An OEM part will only be the whole switch, though.

When I had it apart it before it didn't look like there was any good way to get at replacing the button, but they had to get them in there somehow, right?

[az3579]

When I had it apart it before it didn't look like there was any good way to get at replacing the button, but they had to get them in there somehow, right?

Well they're not really designed to be replaced individually, so the "it got in there somehow" mentality may not necessarily apply. Sometimes it's far easier to make it a certain way when you don't have to think about its ease of replacement.

Give it a try and let us know!
I would normally just buy the whole switch assembly; they're not that much money used on eBay. It would be nice if there's a way to replace them individually though. If you're successful, you should write up a DIY. :)

[BMWCurves]

Well they're not really designed to be replaced individually, so the "it got in there somehow" mentality may not necessarily apply. Sometimes it's far easier to make it a certain way when you don't have to think about its ease of replacement.

Give it a try and let us know!
I would normally just buy the whole switch assembly; they're not that much money used on eBay. It would be nice if there's a way to replace them individually though. If you're successful, you should write up a DIY. :)

I'm going to take a look at the switch later this week and see what it might take to do. I can't quite remember what it looks like disassembled. It doesn't help that the whole switch can be had for $25-30 but the buttons all seem to be $10 w/ shipping.

[sillieidiot]

I bought a gruppe m intake last week from eBay and it came with a k&n filter and the filter looks quite bad... Which replacement filter would u guys recommended??

AEM


Would M3 HSD / Eibach coil overs fit our cars?

yes. the top mounts are different though

[BMWCurves]

Follow up on my button question

So I took the driver's side window switch out and at first glance and it seemed that I could remove the button as it was held in with two "axles" (see picture below). However, despite how hard I pushed on the axles to try and create space for the button to slip above it, it would not budge. I put so much pressure on it with a nail punch that fit that I worried I was going to snap it. I really could not do it. I looked at it closely and the top edge of the axle is shaved off at an angle (you can sort of see it in the pic as well). I'm guessing it is that way so that it can be pushed into place easily during assembly, but having the rest of the axle be flush with the side of the button makes it incredibly unlikely to unseat itself. Additionally, the entire area that the axle is attached to is solid so there just isn't enough flex to disassemble it.

http://i.imgur.com/5wIkXku.jpg

And if you are a dolt like me, you may forget which way in the lower assembly of the switch goes into the upper assembly. A quick check by reattaching the lower assembly to the car's power and testing the windows yields the correct orientation below, with the red things of each switch toward the rear of the car:

http://i.imgur.com/azKY2nd.jpg

So with that said, I can either do nothing and let the minor cosmetic issue be, or buy a new OEM assembly switch (part no. 61316902175). With how I like my cars, the latter option is probably my most likely move :help

EDIT: I will post this in my maintenance/project thread for a more permanent location.

[wsmeyer]

You just use a little flat blade screwdriver to pry up on the white area below the hole.

[san]

AEM



yes. the top mounts are different though

Thanks! How about aFe Pro Dry filter, will it fit? And what about having one custom made?
http://afepower.com/shop/custom/filter.php

[BMWCurves]

You just use a little flat blade screwdriver to pry up on the white area below the hole.

Did you get that to work for you? I tried that, even with a set of small eyeglass screwdrivers. It was too snug to remove.

[wsmeyer]

Did you get that to work for you? I tried that, even with a set of small eyeglass screwdrivers. It was too snug to remove.

Many times. You have to disassemble the switch to mod verts and coupe's to get the all-up/dwn feature to work. I pull the buttons out as I find it much easier to assemble the switch and then push the button back in.

[BMWCurves]

Many times. You have to disassemble the switch to mod verts and coupe's to get the all-up/dwn feature to work. I pull the buttons out as I find it much easier to assemble the switch and then push the button back in.

Right you are, I got it to work. Now I feel a little less intelligent for not getting it the first time around, but it always good to be humbled by something. I'll make a quick DIY for those people like me.

[johnrando]

Best way to get the leftmost (driver's side) dash trim piece off?

sent from mobile device

[az3579]

Best way to get the leftmost (driver's side) dash trim piece off?

sent from mobile device

Buy a $6 set of trim tools from Harbor Freight and have at it. There are two pins, one on the leftmost side of the trim, and one on the right side of the trim. Pry carefully from the bottom. I'd do a little bit on each side till it eventually pops off.


I can remove mine by hand, so it takes me 3 seconds. lol

[johnrando]

lol. I have the pry tools and I've done the right/middle so many times they are easy. The left on is definitely solidly in there, so I wanted to make sure there were no tricks. Thanks BP.

[az3579]

The left on is definitely solidly in there, so I wanted to make sure there were no tricks. Thanks BP.

Unfortunately not. "Just do it" is as good as it gets.
Make sure you have spare orange inserts handy because you will destroy at least one!

[ELCID86]

I'd recommend buying 6-10 orange dash trim female connectors. 1-2 typically fall apart every time I remove the trim. Another inferior made BMW plastic bit.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[cakM3]

You can also use a wide flat blade screw driver to get the dash trim pieces off....that's what I do...

[az3579]

I'd recommend buying 6-10 orange dash trim female connectors. 1-2 typically fall apart every time I remove the trim. Another inferior made BMW plastic bit.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

Can't really call them inferior since they were designed as single use... and stay perfectly tight right up until you remove them. :)