The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[san]

Does the clutch slip under load? if not, sounds like your clutch master and/or slave cylinders are on their way out...

Nope, does not slip at all... How easy/difficult is it to replace them?

[Karl Lazlo]

Nope, does not slip at all... How easy/difficult is it to replace them?

Here is a thread on E46F that details it. I would start by bleeding the system first before replacing and troubleshoot from there... Good luck.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=950408

<knocking on wood as I have had zero clutch related problems with my 330ci thus far>

[san]

Here is a thread on E46F that details it. I would start by bleeding the system first before replacing and troubleshoot from there... Good luck.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=950408

<knocking on wood as I have had zero clutch related problems with my 330ci thus far>

Thanks a lot... Appreciate ur help...

[theothersawyer]

I still feel like its just a cold start issue, but maybe that's just me!

[ELCID86]

Shawn look here

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/S_BUSH/RSM.html

Thanks Vas. I guess it's worth a try as I'd be upgrading them anyway. I may end up removing the shocks twice if that isn't it and it is a blown shock.


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[stephenkirsh]

Non-OEM ok on power steering hoses?

Reservoir is made by ZF, less than half the price.

Two hoses that connect to reservoir are made by Rein, half price.

[derbo]

Non-OEM ok on power steering hoses?

Reservoir is made by ZF, less than half the price.

Two hoses that connect to reservoir are made by Rein, half price.

ZF is an OEM . I'm not sure if rein is.


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[ELCID86]

Non-OEM ok on power steering hoses?

Reservoir is made by ZF, less than half the price.

Two hoses that connect to reservoir are made by Rein, half price.

I may need to do this on Colin's car soon. I noticed this yesterday while doing the boots.

18732


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[fantinno]

Bump. for more answers.

I had maybe 17k on my PSS before I sold the wheels they were on. Looked like they were about half way to the wear bars.

[stephenkirsh]

I had maybe 17k on my PSS before I sold the wheels they were on. Looked like they were about half way to the wear bars.

That's pretty good. Thanks.

[stephenkirsh]

ZF is an OEM . I'm not sure if rein is.


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That's what I figured on the ZF.

Anybody know about rein?

[TigerTater]

That's what I figured on the ZF.

Anybody know about rein?

I'm pretty sure I used either zf or rein when I replaced them. Good quality, still holding up!

[stephenkirsh]

I'm pretty sure I used either zf or rein when I replaced them. Good quality, still holding up!

How many miles so far?

[Taliben]

Guys, I need to buy an oil extractor and I'm torn between a Motive one or a Mityvac. Does anyone have any insights??

[johnrando]

William has a Mityvac and likes it, which is good enough for me. I tried it out and it works great, that's what I'm going to get. No info on the other.

[wsmeyer]

My MityVac works just fine but since then Schwaben has come out with one that has a gauge and quick release fittings:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/ES2774825/

[johnrando]

The mityvac MIT7400 is now $60. Is that what you have?

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-7400.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp6821311&gclid=CMz5k7_wvsQCFVKDfgodlAYA6g

The one on ECS is $159.

[wsmeyer]

Nope. I have this one:

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-7201.aspx

[derbo]

That's what I figured on the ZF.

Anybody know about rein?


Rein is not an OEM Supplier. Cohline is.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0306/BMW_0306_SUSSTR_pg2.htm#item4

[johnrando]

Thanks. I'm liking $95 vs. $159. Anything that would make the ECS on $60 better? How about you buy the fancy one and sell me yours? :)

[stephenkirsh]

Bingo, that's the info I needed. Thx derbo!

[wsmeyer]

Thanks. I'm liking $95 vs. $159. Anything that would make the ECS on $60 better? How about you buy the fancy one and sell me yours? :)

My preference for the Schwaben was based on the fact that I thought I paid around $120 for my MityVac. I just looked it up though and I paid $85.49 on Amazon and it is now $93.66:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TC/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I were to purchase one now I'd probably choose the just extractor model:

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427129213&sr=1-4

Mine does fill and extract but using it for filling then requires a dismantle and thorough cleaning so unless your going to do a bunch in a diff flush party or something it's not going to be worth the hassle.

[johnrando]

OK. Thanks for the info! I'll likely just get that 2nd one then.

[TigerTater]

How many miles so far?

15k

[stephenkirsh]

I had a rough start this morning. Really abnormal idle to the point I turned off the engine after 10 seconds. Started up again and same problem but it settled into normal idle after 3 seconds. It drove fine the rest of the way to work.

What's the symptoms for a hard start caused by failing fuel pump?

[Hermes]

more like an injector or coil. Fuel pump generally just dies

[Vas]

I may need to do this on Colin's car soon. I noticed this yesterday while doing the boots.

18732


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Does anybody have the special tool to remove the lines from the cooler?

[ELCID86]

Does anybody have the special tool to remove the lines from the cooler?

I could stand to borrow/rent it too.


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[Ssparrow]

So I'm about to install my BC Coilovers this weekend and was just wondering if you guys had any good tips or tricks on the install? It looks pretty straight forward for the most part. I also read danes diy about 100 times by now but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

[danewilson77]

So I'm about to install my BC Coilovers this weekend and was just wondering if you guys had any good tips or tricks on the install? It looks pretty straight forward for the most part. I also read danes diy about 100 times by now but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!
Do you have the skinny 16mm wrench for the endlinks?

Did you get new spring pads?

Are you also replacing RSM's and FSM's?

Also....you can't do one side at a time. I recommend front, then rear.

"No flamesuit required"

[ClimRox]

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

[az3579]

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

I didn't remove the throttle body when I rebuilt my DISA, though I did it on a separate occasion. You should always use a new gasket whenever possible when you remove the throttle body.

[Ssparrow]

Do you have the skinny 16mm wrench for the endlinks?

Did you get new spring pads?

Are you also replacing RSM's and FSM's?

Also....you can't do one side at a time. I recommend front, then rear.

"No flamesuit required"

No on the spring pads but I believe I have everything else!
The BCs come with mounts I believe. I ordered a set of rouge rsms about a month ago so I'll throw those on as well.

Thanks!

[ELCID86]

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

No. But I did remove and clean it on my last ZHP. I'd at least do the ICV. It's more likely more dirty.


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[bshovers]

No. But I did remove and clean it on my last ZHP. I'd at least do the ICV. It's more likely more dirty.


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What cleaner is used for cleaning the ICV. Doing this in the next week or so.


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[danewilson77]

Carb cleaner

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

Carb cleaner

"No flamesuit required"

Yes. Though I'd think that brake part cleaner would be ok. Yes?


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[bshovers]

Okay I was pretty sure it was carb cleaner but I was just double checking. Thanks Dane and elcid86


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[stephenkirsh]

I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

[ELCID86]

I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

+1 :-)


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[danewilson77]

:)

"No flamesuit required"

[az3579]

I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

It's still sold in stores and is still purchased often.


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[derbo]

It's still sold in stores and is still purchased often.


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walmart supertech is 1.77 per can :D

[stephenkirsh]

I know, I was kinda making a joke.

I've never even driven a car with carbs.

[johnrando]

Have you driven a car with proteins? ba DUM dum. I def remember dealing with carbs, distributors, rotor caps, etc.

[wsmeyer]

Have you driven a car with proteins? ba DUM dum. I def remember dealing with carbs, distributors, rotor caps, etc.

:facepalm

Who let this guy in here?

[johnrando]

lol

[UdubBadger]

Hahahahaha


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[danewilson77]

:facepalm

Who let this guy in here?
:caseyshrug

"No flamesuit required"

[san]

Hi guys,

Has anyone replaced the transmission linkage bushing? What are the symptoms of a bad one and at what mileage is it usually changed? Thanks!

[az3579]

Hi guys,

Has anyone replaced the transmission linkage bushing? What are the symptoms of a bad one and at what mileage is it usually changed? Thanks!

Yes, I have. When the bushings are worn, it's a lot easier to slip in and out of gear, and there is play in the shift linkage when moving the shifter around in the gate. Personally, the easy in/out of the shift gates really suited my lazy driving style, and when I refreshed the bushing, it was a lot harder to shift smoothly. Everyone else seems to think this is better, and it is a lot firmer now that it's been replaced. I also took this time to have the BMW Performance short shift kit installed as well.

Mileage isn't a good indicator of when to replace shift bushings (since highway miles won't wear that bushing at all). You replace them when you feel the shifting to be too sloppy.

[UdubBadger]

so should we just change the name of the thread to "BP answers all random E46/ZHP questions" thread?

[az3579]

so should we just change the name of the thread to "BP answers all random E46/ZHP questions" thread?

Until others start to give answers before I do, I say yes. :biggrin


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[san]

Yes, I have. When the bushings are worn, it's a lot easier to slip in and out of gear, and there is play in the shift linkage when moving the shifter around in the gate. Personally, the easy in/out of the shift gates really suited my lazy driving style, and when I refreshed the bushing, it was a lot harder to shift smoothly. Everyone else seems to think this is better, and it is a lot firmer now that it's been replaced. I also took this time to have the BMW Performance short shift kit installed as well.

Mileage isn't a good indicator of when to replace shift bushings (since highway miles won't wear that bushing at all). You replace them when you feel the shifting to be too sloppy.

Thanks for the info!

[ELCID86]

Thanks for the info!

Short shift kit!

[Ssparrow]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!

[bshovers]

Has anyone used the EGR block off valve thing ? It's a plate that blocks the flow of the secondary air pump system so you can remove the whole pump itself. It seems like it's a cheap alternative to replacing the whole pump.


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[UdubBadger]

All preference. I rock about a 3/10 in firmness both front and rear


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[danewilson77]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!
Yes. Someone here has done this mod.

BP?

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

Rofl



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[az3579]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!


Yes. Someone here has done this mod.

BP?

"No flamesuit required"

Yes, I mostly deleted my washer setup. I put in a washer tank from a car that didn't have headlight washers. I left the headlight washer strips under the headlights since I can't be bothered to spend on another set of strips and painting for them. I don't like "deleting" options that came with the car so I wanted to maintain the "look" of the option.


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[UdubBadger]

Ok so talk to me on why the RE-11 would be a better choice for spirited driving and say 3-6 HPDE's in the summer over the PSS.

I realize PSS is Max Performance Summer category and RE-11 is Extreme Performance Summer.

18881

[UdubBadger]

And if you do recommend PSS is it worth buying a new set over the current DW's that I have on the car right now


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[fredo]

Along the same lines, this is what I decided to do for my ZHP. She came with DW all around and the rear tires need to be replaced soon.

I considered to replace all tires with Michelin PS3 ... But at the end, I decided to buy 2 DW for the rear. Once the DW are done, I will replace with PS3.

[stephenkirsh]

Ouch. Those prices remind me why I went with 17" wheels! About $165 for a PSS 245/40/17.

[Vas]

Ok so talk to me on why the RE-11 would be a better choice for spirited driving and say 3-6 HPDE's in the summer over the PSS.

I realize PSS is Max Performance Summer category and RE-11 is Extreme Performance Summer.

18881

Max performance tires are great on the street and can be used on the track.
Extreme performance tires are great for track events and can be used on the street. Standing water with them can be an issue due to the design of the tire.

The biggest difference is UTQG rating. Also extreme perfomance tires usually have a much stiffer sidewall for steering response and a softer compound that is more sticky.

My opinion, I would go with the PSS if you have the money. Otherwise the Bridgestone S04 is a runner up in the max performance category right behind the PSS.

[UdubBadger]

If that's the case. Is PSS that much of an upgrade from the DW's I have now to warrant spending the money on a new set when the DW's still have a lot of life left (only a year old and spend half the year in storage for winter)


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[Vas]

Ouch. Those prices remind me why I went with 17" wheels! About $165 for a PSS 245/40/17.

Different strokes for different folks. I personally would not downgrade to 17" wheels when the car came with 18". I paid roughly the same amount for a set of tires in the factory size for Bridgestone S04.


If that's the case. Is PSS that much of an upgrade from the DW's I have now to warrant spending the money on a new set when the DW's still have a lot of life left (only a year old and spend half the year in storage for winter)


GoingHAM mobile

They are an upgrade however are you not satisfied with the DW? I would run them till they are done and then look at tires.

[slater]

If that's the case. Is PSS that much of an upgrade from the DW's I have now to warrant spending the money on a new set when the DW's still have a lot of life left (only a year old and spend half the year in storage for winter)


GoingHAM mobile

if you're that concerned about grip then go for the PSS and sell the used set of DWs... recoup some costs... they are an entirely different league of tire.

if you do opt for new tires, get the PSS, and stay away from the RE11's, apparently they cannot handle the heat.

peter

[UdubBadger]

Cool thanks. Yeah just not sure how much I can get for the DWs so might just run um to see how they do. Will at least upgrade to PSS when I toast the contis


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[GE Geoff]

Seth, how much life you got left on the RE-11's


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[3ZHP]

I'm on my second set of RE11s and have had no issues. They've been on a few HPDS and several xcross events. Love the performance and grip I get from these, and now that I'm in the back hills of TN, push them hard daily, with the only being that big smile, I can't keep off my face.


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[3ZHP]

Note, that the RE11s have been superseded by the RE-71Rs so, you might find a close out price on the RE11s in the near future.


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[fredo]

Looks like Seth has Contis DW.


Seth, how much life you got left on the RE-11's


iPhone 5/meat hook hands/Tapatalk

[GE Geoff]

Looks like Seth has Contis DW.

Doh! Lol should've read more.


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[UdubBadger]

Seth, how much life you got left on the RE-11's


iPhone 5/meat hook hands/Tapatalk

I have DWs


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[UdubBadger]

Doh! Lol should've read more.


iPhone 5/meat hook hands/Tapatalk

No worries


GoingHAM mobile

[az3579]

If it came down to PSS versus RE-11, I'd choose RE-11 from autocross/track usage.
If it came down to mostly street driving, I'd choose PSS.

The PSS is a better daily driving tire. The RE-11's follow every little groove in the road, which can get annoying, and they don't last very long if driven on the street. While the PSS is no better for wear, I believe they are quieter and have better wet traction.

For track/autocross usage, I have a dedicated set of RE-11's. I have had them since I've owned the car (ordered the set right after purchase) and STILL have them over 4 years later. They are finally on their last legs. They have been used 95% autocross/track and some very minor daily driving for the times my primary set were unavailable. The traction is still awesome on them even though they're mostly worn down.

For this kind of usage, I'd choose something else other than the PSS. Most of the track junkies I know that run street tires do not run PSS but instead something in the class of the RE-11 (RS3's, RE-11, Star Specs, etc.) I'm sure there's a good reason for that. Let's not mention that this class of tire is also STILL cheaper than those damn PSS tires! They're way too expensive for what they are. You can almost get R-Compound tires for the price of PSS tires... *almost*. They're like 3-400 off R-comps, but consider the S-04 tires are almost 300 less than the PSS, and those are a very close second to the PSS in performance.

[az3579]

Could someone please take a pic of their emergency trunk release handle on the inside? I found mine dangling today with no way of pinning it back up so Id like to know what holds it up.

This is mine:

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/01/1d25e4d1265c400d5ff5e21ea33134b6.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/01/c609277b21c96e18ea039384ed4cef85.jpg



It looks like there's supposed to be something that goes on the black plastic nub in the second pic...


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[ELCID86]

That's where it goes. Just snaps in as I recall. Slide it down?


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[ELCID86]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!

I think you will be sorry not to have washer fluid at some point. Not sure what your climate is though. There is a washer that can be replaced for <$5 that usually fixes the leak. I have my headlight washers coded off.


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[Jconlin16]

So after swapping my winter/summer tires, I've noticed that my steering wheel shakes at 55+mph. I had the tires mounted and balanced at discount tire just a week ago, what are the chances that they incorrectly balanced a wheel? My summer wheels are Apex ec-7's 18x9 with 255/35/18 wrapped all around. If it isn't the wheels, I'll just swap the winters back on, see if the issue goes away and then wait until I install my coilovers and get an alignment with the summers on. Any thoughts?

[Vas]

I don't think there is anything else for it. But then I don't open my trunk unless I'm putting dead bodies inside of it.

[johnrando]

I'll take a pic today BP.

As for headlight washers, I don't think mine have ever come on automatically, but I like the idea of having them and I have tested them before. When a shop did my front bumper work they forgot to plug in the hose but that was the only reason I had a leak (of course it was an easy fix).

[az3579]

That's where it goes. Just snaps in as I recall. Slide it down?


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I tried that to no avail... I never touch that release handle so I can only assume something that was retaining it broke off.


I think you will be sorry not to have washer fluid at some point. Not sure what your climate is though. There is a washer that can be replaced for <$5 that usually fixes the leak. I have my headlight washers coded off.


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He said he wanted to just do a headlight washer delete. That doesn't affect the standard windshield washing system.


So after swapping my winter/summer tires, I've noticed that my steering wheel shakes at 55+mph. I had the tires mounted and balanced at discount tire just a week ago, what are the chances that they incorrectly balanced a wheel? My summer wheels are Apex ec-7's 18x9 with 255/35/18 wrapped all around. If it isn't the wheels, I'll just swap the winters back on, see if the issue goes away and then wait until I install my coilovers and get an alignment with the summers on. Any thoughts?

You will mostly likely need to have them rebalanced. Check all the tire pressures just to be certain.


I'll take a pic today BP.


Is the vert setup the same as a sedan?


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[wsmeyer]

Could someone please take a pic of their emergency trunk release handle on the inside? I found mine dangling today with no way of pinning it back up so Id like to know what holds it up.

This is mine



It looks like there's supposed to be something that goes on the black plastic nub in the second pic...


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Looks to me like the black pieces of plastic on the handle broke off of here

18892

[anandoc]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Thanks guys!

I have been troubleshooting a leak in my washer system for months now so I have become somewhat of a self-proclaimed expert at the E46 windshield/headlight washer system.

You can simply remove the headlamp washer pump (the pump facing towards the front of the car) and disconnect it from the wiring harness. Then you can just plug the hole with anything that fits and you are good to go. This is what I have done right now.

If you want to do it the proper way, you can get a new/used washer reservoir which does not have the front hole (part# 61667007970 for the cars that did not come with the cold weather package) and replace your existing reservoir.

I seem to have a leak in the rubber hose which connects to the windshield washer pump (the one at the back of the reservoir) and my washer fluid leaks out very slowly. Once it warms up a little bit, I am going to have to replace all the rubber hose just so that this problem does not pop-up again. Sigh!

[Ssparrow]

I have been troubleshooting a leak in my washer system for months now so I have become somewhat of a self-proclaimed expert at the E46 windshield/headlight washer system.

You can simply remove the headlamp washer pump (the pump facing towards the front of the car) and disconnect it from the wiring harness. Then you can just plug the hole with anything that fits and you are good to go. This is what I have done right now.

If you want to do it the proper way, you can get a new/used washer reservoir which does not have the front hole (part# 61667007970 for the cars that did not come with the cold weather package) and replace your existing reservoir.

I seem to have a leak in the rubber hose which connects to the windshield washer pump (the one at the back of the reservoir) and my washer fluid leaks out very slowly. Once it warms up a little bit, I am going to have to replace all the rubber hose just so that this problem does not pop-up again. Sigh!

That's what I've thought about doing. I still need to get in there and check things out to see exactly where it's leaking from (somewhere on the drivers side headlight). If I were to completely do a headlight washer delete all I would need is the tank that you mentioned and the lower headlight trim that doesn't have the washers in them right?

Thanks for the help!

[johnrando]

BP, just texted you the pics. LMK if you need something better. On mine, it just slides into a little nub.

[ELCID86]

Sparrow, would coding them off help or is there a leak besides?


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[ELCID86]

It doesn't sit flush.
18893

18894


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[anandoc]

That's what I've thought about doing. I still need to get in there and check things out to see exactly where it's leaking from (somewhere on the drivers side headlight). If I were to completely do a headlight washer delete all I would need is the tank that you mentioned and the lower headlight trim that doesn't have the washers in them right?

Thanks for the help!

Correct. You would also need to remove the hoses and the telescopic arms and nozzles etc. But if I were you, I would not bother with all those things. Just remove the pump, plug the hole securely and call it a day. You may also want to wrap up the connector to the pump and secure it so that water does not corrode the connectors should you change your mind in the future.

@Shawn, I think there is a leak here so coding the headlamp washers off would not help.

[Ssparrow]

Thanks for the help! It's very odd, it seems like it'll only leak the first time I start the car in the mornings, I thought it was coolant at first until I actually got a good look at it and realized it was coming from my headlight washers. I'll have to find something to plug up that hole on the tank. Thanks for the help guys!

[TheFinanceGuy]

BP. Mines the same way.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/02/ace8351ff8c795a9851e828884353670.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/02/df77e92d7c448555db7483e6a92262db.jpg


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[johnrando]

Just heard from BP, he got his working correctly. Thanks for all the input and pics.

[az3579]

Sparrow, would coding them off help or is there a leak besides?


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Shawn,
It would continue to leak as long as there is a connection to the washer reservoir. If the proposed fix is implemented (getting rid of the pump and plugging it, or swapping out the reservoir for a non-headlight washer one), then that would be the ultimate solution to the problem if one has no interest in actually fixing the leak.


The pic that Rando sent me via text this morning for the trunk release handle did the trick; I saw how the handle slides onto the plastic nub. Can't believe I didn't see how it goes sooner; it's all fixed now. :)

[cakM3]

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).


Thanks guys!

Sparrow, I did the complete headlight washer delete on my ZHP with exception of keeping the headlight washer pump and plumbing. This is how I plugged the washer reservoir...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/14/7egedype.jpg

All I had to do was plug the reservoir and disconnect the washer hoses from the headlight assemblies and replace the lower headlight trim. That was it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/14/3e3ase3y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/14/mebajedy.jpg

Then BP was kind enough to code my car so the headlight washers wouldn't be used...so far I haven't had any issues regarding leaking washer fluid on my car but when we did this to BP's car using the very same technique, he was experiencing leaking washer fluid. Not sure why mine is different but to this day it is still as shown above...

[Ssparrow]

Very helpful! I'm going to try to tackle this this weekend. I may eventually end up ordering a new tank and headlight trim, and my trim is all sorts of road rashed. Any of you know if anywhere sells headlight trim already painted?

[cakM3]

Very helpful! I'm going to try to tackle this this weekend. I may eventually end up ordering a new tank and headlight trim, and my trim is all sorts of road rashed. Any of you know if anywhere sells headlight trim already painted?

You will have to paint your headlight trim. They come primered so be careful handling them so your finger print grease doesn't get on them. You should have no problem having a body shop paint the trim pieces exactly to the color of your car. :thumbsup

[ELCID86]

Maybe that's where I have a leak too!


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[Ssparrow]

Just went out and plugged the headlight washer pump, luckily found a small enough hose clamp in my junk drawer. All is good for now!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/02/be42654f3f7533394e8b9750236409f0.jpg

[ELCID86]

What did you put in it to close it off?

[danewilson77]

Looks like he pinched it off with a hose clamp. Just squished it perhaps.

"No flamesuit required"

[Ssparrow]

I actually found a rubber plug type thing that slipped over the end of the washer pump nice and tightly. Hose clamp is just for added security but I'm not sure if it's really needed

[danewilson77]

I actually found a rubber plug type thing that slipped over the end of the washer pump nice and tightly. Hose clamp is just for added security but I'm not sure if it's really needed
Perfect.

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

I'm on the hunt for a :blinkrubber plug type thing

[az3579]

You guys are better off acquiring a non-headlight washer pump, IMO... that would guarantee you'll never have this problem again.

[cakM3]

You guys are better off acquiring a non-headlight washer pump, IMO... that would guarantee you'll never have this problem again.

Not sure why you continued to experience leaking issues when we did yours initially BP. I have a similar setup on my ZHP and have no leaks :scratchinghead I don't think Sparrow will have issues with his solution based on the pic he provided. Looks good Sparrow! :thumbsup

[az3579]

Not sure why you continued to experience leaking issues when we did yours initially BP. I have a similar setup on my ZHP and have no leaks :scratchinghead I don't think Sparrow will have issues with his solution based on the pic he provided. Looks good Sparrow! :thumbsup

All I'm saying is that as long as the plumbing from the washer pump exists (plugged or not), it's a potential point of failure. It's a matter of time before the hose coming from the pump develops a crack or leaks. It's not a permanent solution.


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[cakM3]

All I'm saying is that as long as the plumbing from the washer pump exists (plugged or not), it's a potential point of failure. It's a matter of time before the hose coming from the pump develops a crack or leaks. It's not a permanent solution.


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Point taken but if I choose to someday go back to OE configuration regarding headlight washers, my way would make going back much easier....that's all I'm sayin'.

[Ssparrow]

Yeah that's definitely just temporary. I'd like to eventually get a new tank without headlight washers and new headlight trim as well. For as much as I take my headlights out, not having headlight washers would make it SO much easier

[Dave1027]

Here's a totally random question. Seems I get tailgated a lot in this car. Am I the only one noticing this? Is it only down to the way the rear view mirror works?

[UdubBadger]

I get a lot of that too but I always figured it was just asshole Chicago drivers or people snapping pix of my plates


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[WOLFN8TR]

Now I get it too. It really gets annoying as hell. [emoji35]

[bshovers]

Whats a reasonable offer to pay for used shadowline trim? Im going to grab some off a zhp part out close to me. I don't want to low ball the seller nor do I want to over pay.

[ELCID86]

I guess it depends on the condition, etc. As you know it's very expensive new. $150-300 maybe?


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[bshovers]

Ecs.com has it brand new for $215. I had originaly offered him $300 but I think im gonna try and get him down to $150. Just gotta find a DIY video now or write up...

[ELCID86]

^$215 for all of it on both sides?


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[bshovers]

^$215 for all of it on both sides?


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215 per side. That's lower than what it used to be I believe


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[Dave1027]

I get a lot of that too but I always figured it was just asshole Chicago drivers or people snapping pix of my plates

The thing is, I don't get tailgated when I drive my truck. Only when I drive the zhp. I'm thinking it's because it's low and other drivers can easily see over the top from behind. My truck is pretty tall. There's no seeing over that.

[UdubBadger]

Probably. I don't think I notice less tailgating in my Pilot... Just no photos


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[BMWCurves]

For those of you who tinted your cars, what tint do you have and how do you like it? I had SunTek Carbon on my last car for 18 months and had no problems but I'm just trying to see if I should venture to another brand/line with my ZHP.

There's a place in town that does work for local Audi and BMW dealerships and they use either SunTek Carbon for $200 or SunTek CXP (SunTek's top of the line I think) for $250, which seems reasonable. They deal with the dot matrix by adding vinyl 2-3 weeks after the initial tint has cured.

Thoughts?

[UdubBadger]

Brands are brands, just make sure you get ceramic


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[NickZHP]

Deos anyone have any tips for getting these chips and small dent fixed?
http://i.imgur.com/TwyzWvx.jpg?2
Is there a good kit or DIY that would fix this? Would it be expensive to get it fixed by a pro? Its not that large but the small dent is pretty annoying and the chips dont help it.

[fredo]

I would ask a PDR shop about the dent, it should be cheap because it's small. I hear Dr ColorChip can fix the chips, you get the kit and DIY.

[ELCID86]

+1 on PDR

[danewilson77]

PDR + Dr. Colorchip

"No flamesuit required"

[derbo]

PDR might even have touchup for it if they specialize in BMWs. I know my guys uses to do that. Dent Wizard.

[ClimRox]

Looking to buy FCABs, and will most likely get Lemforder as they appear to be the OE supplier and I would like to stick with the OE ride. I believe I read somewhere on here that the Meyles are of poor quality currently...

So, when I plug in part number 31126783376 to a BMW parts search engine I gets lots of results, with RockAuto being most cost effective by a decent margin for the Lemforder brand (~$65 with a discount). They appear to be ~$91 at ECS. I have never ordered from RockAuto, and when you click on the part number (1797801) it doesn't show that they fit our cars per RockAuto. However, it is directly linked to the BMW part number above.

Could someone advise whether these are indeed the correct FCABs or not? I tried to look at the Lemforder catalog, and 1797801 appears to be correct, but thought I would check here to make sure. Thanks.

[Vas]

Looking to buy FCABs, and will most likely get Lemforder as they appear to be the OE supplier and I would like to stick with the OE ride. I believe I read somewhere on here that the Meyles are of poor quality currently...

So, when I plug in part number 31126783376 to a BMW parts search engine I gets lots of results, with RockAuto being most cost effective by a decent margin for the Lemforder brand (~$65 with a discount). They appear to be ~$91 at ECS. I have never ordered from RockAuto, and when you click on the part number (1797801) it doesn't show that they fit our cars per RockAuto. However, it is directly linked to the BMW part number above.

Could someone advise whether these are indeed the correct FCABs or not? I tried to look at the Lemforder catalog, and 1797801 appears to be correct, but thought I would check here to make sure. Thanks.

Another good option is factory Z4M control arm bushings.

[az3579]

I believe I read somewhere on here that the Meyles are of poor quality currently...

I had Meyle on my car for one year before they shit the bed. Both the control arms and bushings failed.



So, when I plug in part number 31126783376 to a BMW parts search engine I gets lots of results, with RockAuto being most cost effective by a decent margin for the Lemforder brand (~$65 with a discount). They appear to be ~$91 at ECS. I have never ordered from RockAuto, and when you click on the part number (1797801) it doesn't show that they fit our cars per RockAuto. However, it is directly linked to the BMW part number above.

Could someone advise whether these are indeed the correct FCABs or not? I tried to look at the Lemforder catalog, and 1797801 appears to be correct, but thought I would check here to make sure. Thanks.

If you want Genuine OE parts, you'd be paying a lot more than $65. That is definitely an aftermarket part.

Do yourself a favor and download the BMW Part Number Price Comparison tool (BMW PNPC) available here:

http://www.bmwpnpc.com

Use this tool to search all the online dealers for the genuine BMW part. You won't regret it.


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[stephenkirsh]

+1 on Z4M. That's what I have. No change in ride quality.

[san]

The tires on my car were changed by the previous owner about 40k miles and 8 years ago (General Exclaim UHP) and they have plenty of tread still left... Is it advisable to keep using them till the tread wears out or should I change the tires based on their age?

[stephenkirsh]

8 years ago is kinda old. I think 10 years is the default for changing no mater what.

I guess you don't drive the car too hard?

[san]

8 years ago is kinda old. I think 10 years is the default for changing no mater what.

I guess you don't drive the car too hard?

I have only had the car for about 6 months now, I do drive the car quite hard, but I guess previous owner did not...:)

[stephenkirsh]

Probably safe to just wear them out then :)

[Crickett]

Do yourself a favor and download the BMW Part Number Price Comparison tool (BMW PNPC) available here:

http://www.bmwpnpc.com

Use this tool to search all the online dealers for the genuine BMW part. You won't regret it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
BP, that looks amazing! Thanks for the heads-up!

[san]

Probably safe to just wear them out then :)

Thanks!

[stephenkirsh]

Does anybody know what the turn signal bulb type is for the rear tails? I've clear bulbs in there and I'm looking for some "stealth" Amber bulbs to get legal.

Has anybody ever been pulled over for not having the right color turn signals? These days you'd think the police would be happy you're even using the signal!

[az3579]

Does anybody know what the turn signal bulb type is for the rear tails? I've clear bulbs in there and I'm looking for some "stealth" Amber bulbs to get legal.

Has anybody ever been pulled over for not having the right color turn signals? These days you'd think the police would be happy you're even using the signal!

1156/7506.


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[stephenkirsh]

Oh same as the front turn signals? Cool thanks!

[az3579]

Oh same as the front turn signals? Cool thanks!

Yes, same as fronts.


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[ELCID86]

Looking for new end links to go with my "new" KW V2 coilovers. Suggestions?


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[UdubBadger]

Turner


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[ELCID86]

Turner


GoingHAM mobile
Thanks Seth.

[danewilson77]

Looking for new end links to go with my "new" KW V2 coilovers. Suggestions?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
E36 M3 endlinks

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

E36 M3 endlinks

"No flamesuit required"

Are these and do I need adjustable? I assume yes.

anyone know these? http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworld-strut-mounted-adjustable-swaybar-links-p1394.aspx

[danewilson77]

Adjustable not required. No they are not. Try to get measurements before you purchase. I may be mixing up the V1's and tge FK's I used to have.

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

Adjustable not required. No they are not. Try to get measurements before you purchase. I may be mixing up the V1's and tge FK's I used to have.

"No flamesuit required"
WILCO. ANd I confirmed you were right, these are V2.

[BMWCurves]

For anyone that's changed their transmission oil in a manual car, did you have torx bit plugs for both the fill and drain plugs? All the DIY's I read prior to doing my transmission for 330i/Cis were 17mm hex bolts instead so I was very confused today when I saw the torx fill/drain plugs. Is that a ZHP specific thing?

[Jconlin16]

I just recently changed mine and it was an 8mm hex head...

[Ssparrow]

Mine were 8mm hex as well

[danewilson77]

Both mine are torx.

"No flamesuit required"

[danewilson77]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/13/0aee4590bcb640618279268b9b23ddc9.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

[BMWCurves]

Okay, I feel a little more comfortable knowing all E46 didn't come with just hex bolts for the fill/drain bolts in manual transmissions. Much appreciated everyone!

[stephenkirsh]

K Derek and BP are making me question this so I wanted to get a full answer from the family (not that I don't trust them).

What lights need to be Amber color for DOT rules?

[BCS_ZHP]

F
Looking for new end links to go with my "new" KW V2 coilovers. Suggestions?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

A new set of end links in my garage, saw them last weekend, don't know the brand, price is right -- beers for us to catch up. They came with one of the suspensions I've bought over the years.

[UdubBadger]

Mine are born from liquified steel that I molded with my bare hands and cooled to the touch using unicorn tears and the poisonous secretions of Dendroaspis Polylepis, otherwise known as the Black Mamba.

"No flamesuit required"

Fixed

[danewilson77]

Fixed
You're crazy man.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

hey you're the one playing with liquid steel and black mambas...

[ELCID86]

F

A new set of end links in my garage, saw them last weekend, don't know the brand, price is right -- beers for us to catch up. They came with one of the suspensions I've bought over the years.
I'll take you up on that if you'll help me install it!! Let's talk :-) Out of town until Friday.

[BCS_ZHP]

I'm around for the weekend, the girls headed to NYC/NJ area for a soccer tourney.

[ELCID86]

I'm around for the weekend, the girls headed to NYC/NJ area for a soccer tourney.

I'll text you in the next day or two.

[az3579]

I'll take you up on that if you'll help me install it!! Let's talk :-) Out of town until Friday.


I'm around for the weekend, the girls headed to NYC/NJ area for a soccer tourney.


I'll text you in the next day or two.


I'll be in your area on Saturday morning, if y'all want to meet up. :)

[theothersawyer]

So I've been trying to figure this out, and I guess it's only to know more about the car than anything else. I don't really need bluetooth, anyways.

My car doesn't have bluetooth, but when I push the R/T button on the steering wheel it say "Phonebook Empty!!" My car does have BMW Assist, so it already has the microphone. On my friends 330i when he pushes the R/T button it does nothing. So why does mine say phonebook empty and his doesn't? Also, what would be needed to add bluetooth?

[ELCID86]

I'll be in your area on Saturday morning, if y'all want to meet up. :)

Yes! Bruce's ?? ;-)


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[az3579]

Yes! Bruce's ?? ;-)


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Yessir.

[NoVAphotog]

I'll be in your area on Saturday morning, if y'all want to meet up. :)

:biggrin but at the same time :(

I'll be across the Chesapeake going around cones a few times and then watching other cars do the same all morning!

Are you driving down BP slash how long will you be in the area?

[az3579]

:biggrin but at the same time :(

I'll be across the Chesapeake going around cones a few times and then watching other cars do the same all morning!

Are you driving down BP slash how long will you be in the area?

I'm driving down very early Saturday morning and can stay as long as I want. I'll be done with what I need to get done by 10:30 or so, and will be heading to Bruce's place afterwards.

[Vas]

Well this meet-up sounds exciting.

[terraphantm]

I could have sworn I had an 8mm hex for the transmission on my ZHP

[BMWCurves]

I could have sworn I had an 8mm hex for the transmission on my ZHP

It very well may be. Mine was a Torx (I think a T50?) but it seems our ZHPs are either Torx or hex.

New question: For those of you that opted for a CDV delete, did you replace the old CDV with Zeckhausen's modified CDV (http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3_9_65_243&products_id=273) (now $95) or did you simply remove the CDV and reassemble the assembly like so: http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_cdv_delete.htm

For either one, have you found any issues?

[NoVAphotog]

I'm driving down very early Saturday morning and can stay as long as I want. I'll be done with what I need to get done by 10:30 or so, and will be heading to Bruce's place afterwards.


Well this meet-up sounds exciting.

Sounds good. I should be able to stop by after the autox, in perfect time for a lunch meetup! I know a couple of Imola sedan light control module's that are in need of an intimate, erotic and passionate coding session with an expert if you are bringing the materials along?

Speaking of Imola sedans...Vas...you better get in gear and head over. I'll have my camera gear with me so we can get pictures of Wobz, Scarlett, Imola Elite and Rehab as well as help Bruce with some shots of the 335 for sale. :thumbsup

[terraphantm]

It very well may be. Mine was a Torx (I think a T50?) but it seems our ZHPs are either Torx or hex.

New question: For those of you that opted for a CDV delete, did you replace the old CDV with Zeckhausen's modified CDV (http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3_9_65_243&products_id=273) (now $95) or did you simply remove the CDV and reassemble the assembly like so: http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_cdv_delete.htm

For either one, have you found any issues?

Just remove it and reassemble. The only purpose for the Zeckhausen piece is if you want to retain the stock look for warranty purposes, which shouldn't apply to any e46 owner now. I never had an issue with the line reassembled without the CDV in either my M3 or ZHP.

[Vas]

Sounds good. I should be able to stop by after the autox, in perfect time for a lunch meetup! I know a couple of Imola sedan light control module's that are in need of an intimate, erotic and passionate coding session with an expert if you are bringing the materials along?

Speaking of Imola sedans...Vas...you better get in gear and head over. I'll have my camera gear with me so we can get pictures of Wobz, Scarlett, Imola Elite and Rehab as well as help Bruce with some shots of the 335 for sale. :thumbsup

I am going to see if I can make it. Not sure what time to aim for though but I will be in the wife's zhp since I need to have an LCM coded into her car.

[BMWCurves]

Just remove it and reassemble. The only purpose for the Zeckhausen piece is if you want to retain the stock look for warranty purposes, which shouldn't apply to any e46 owner now. I never had an issue with the line reassembled without the CDV in either my M3 or ZHP.

Perfect, thanks!

[az3579]

I
New question: For those of you that opted for a CDV delete, did you replace the old CDV with Zeckhausen's modified CDV (http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3_9_65_243&products_id=273) (now $95) or did you simply remove the CDV and reassemble the assembly like so: http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_cdv_delete.htm

When I put mine in, my car was under CPO. I purchased the gutted CDV, though it wasn't from Zeckhausen. Even if my car wasn't under warranty, I prefer the look of a car that looks 100% factory, with nothing "missing".


I know a couple of Imola sedan light control module's that are in need of an intimate, erotic and passionate coding session with an expert if you are bringing the materials along?




I'll bring the massage oil.

[Vas]

When I put mine in, my car was under CPO. I purchased the gutted CDV, though it wasn't from Zeckhausen. Even if my car wasn't under warranty, I prefer the look of a car that looks 100% factory, with nothing "missing".




I'll bring the massage oil.
I will be attending for sure now. See you guys Saturday

[danewilson77]

When I put mine in, my car was under CPO. I purchased the gutted CDV, though it wasn't from Zeckhausen. Even if my car wasn't under warranty, I prefer the look of a car that looks 100% factory, with nothing "missing".




I'll bring the massage oil.
There's zero difference between removing something that shouldn't be there in the first place and putting a GruppeM intake on. Zero. Zip. Nada.

"No flamesuit required"

[az3579]

There's zero difference between removing something that shouldn't be there in the first place and putting a GruppeM intake on. Zero. Zip. Nada.

"No flamesuit required"

I meant it from a "something is missing" perspective.
If screws are missing, or covers/plastic trim are missing, then that falls into this category. The same way that if this valve isn't there, then it's obvious (to someone in the know) that something is missing.

[danewilson77]

I meant it from a "something is missing" perspective.
If screws are missing, or covers/plastic trim are missing, then that falls into this category.
Imho.....after you reconnect the lines....nothings missing homey.

Guess I'm a "glass half full" guy.

Also...if I know you, you're not the guy to tout installing something just to give off the perspective that, somethings there, which in effect is what you do with the hollowed out cdv.

"No flamesuit required"

[cakM3]

I meant it from a "something is missing" perspective.
If screws are missing, or covers/plastic trim are missing, then that falls into this category. The same way that if this valve isn't there, then it's obvious (to someone in the know) that something is missing.

there's someone I know who have some screws missing....;)

[danewilson77]

there's someone I know who have some screws missing....;)
:rofl

"No flamesuit required"

[terraphantm]

I meant it from a "something is missing" perspective.
If screws are missing, or covers/plastic trim are missing, then that falls into this category. The same way that if this valve isn't there, then it's obvious (to someone in the know) that something is missing.

Still, it's not like it looks like anything is obviously missing. The two ends fit together and it looks like that's how it was meant to be from the factory. Sure us enthusiasts know, but most of us would say "that's got to go" if we saw a CDV

[az3579]

Still, it's not like it looks like anything is obviously missing. The two ends fit together and it looks like that's how it was meant to be from the factory. Sure us enthusiasts know, but most of us would say "that's got to go" if we saw a CDV

I must be in the minority with my OCD, "knowing" that something that was there is no longer there.

[az3579]

Still, it's not like it looks like anything is obviously missing. The two ends fit together and it looks like that's how it was meant to be from the factory. Sure us enthusiasts know, but most of us would say "that's got to go" if we saw a CDV

I must be in the minority with my OCD, "knowing" that something that was there is no longer there.
This is probably why I'm having a hard time deleting my headlight washer system. It's an option that was there... and my OCD is not allowing me to completely get rid of it.

[danewilson77]

I must be in the minority with my OCD, "knowing" that something that was there is no longer there.


I must be in the minority with my OCD, "knowing" that something that was there is no longer there.
This is probably why I'm having a hard time deleting my headlight washer system. It's an option that was there... and my OCD is not allowing me to completely get rid of it.

Yes.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

[terraphantm]

I must be in the minority with my OCD, "knowing" that something that was there is no longer there.
This is probably why I'm having a hard time deleting my headlight washer system. It's an option that was there... and my OCD is not allowing me to completely get rid of it.
Nah I'm like that about most things on the car, but with the CDV, that area looks more stock without it in place lol

The headlight washers I actually like when they work. They do a pretty good job of cleaning salt off the lenses, which is quite helpful in winter

[az3579]

The headlight washers I actually like when they're not leaking. They do a pretty good job of cleaning salt off the lenses, which is quite helpful in winter

Fixed. :shifty

[san]

I am trying to get a european custom number plate, something like this -

https://www.customeuropeanplates.com/

and I want to install it on the towing hook location on the front... Has anyone done this? I have seen some people do it using a USA size number plate, so will I need the same parts for the european one as well??

Also my state does not require a front license plate, so will it cause a problem when I drive in states that require a front license plate? Thanks!

[ELCID86]

See if http://www.gominigo.com has one.


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[UdubBadger]

See if http://www.gominigo.com has one.


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That's where I get all my plate stuff too


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[san]

See if http://www.gominigo.com has one.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Thanks! Will have a look...


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[Ssparrow]

Thinking about doing a brake fluid flush here soon seeing as I'm not sure when the last time it's been done... How much fluid is typically needed for a full flush? Should one liter be enough?

Thanks!

[UdubBadger]

Yeah one liter will be plenty


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[smacame]

How would you guys go about getting a replacement spare wheel/tire for the trunk? I'm driving around without one at the moment (not a super great situation).

-- edit: There actually was a compact spare in there :facepalm, I just didn't realize the cover was over it.

[stephenkirsh]

Full sized or donut?

Either way, I'd probably start looking on Craigslist. Maybe e46f or bimmerforums, etc.

[smacame]

Is there an option for a full size spare? The plastic insert in the well of my trunk looks like it's made for a compact spare. I'd love to have a full size one in there if it'd fit.

[danewilson77]

Full size 8" will fit.

[BMWCurves]

I remember reading somewhere that ZHPs never came with a full size spare, only a donut. I'm not sure what size wheel would fit. My old 330Ci ZSP came with a full size spare but it was a front (17x8", 225 section tire), not sure if it could handle a 18x8.5," 255 section tire if you wanted to go that route.

[danewilson77]

It came with a donut. Full size 8" will fit.

[stephenkirsh]

I fit a 17x8.5" wheel with a 245/45/17 tire on it with minimal modification (I cut some of the black plastic to allow it to fit.). The floor board stuck up about 1/4 of an inch, but I think that's worth it. It's also worth noting 245/45 isn't the right size for e46 on 17" wheels, so a 245/40/17 should fit no problems.

If you're on 18" wheels, you can look at something like tire rack to compare the size of your full spare choice to my 245/45/17 experience. I doubt many other ppl have tried that.

[NoVAphotog]

So it's currently 122 degrees according to my car...no codes...just goes immediately up to 122 after driving for a bit. Can I just replace the ambient temperature sensor or get the whole wiring kit?

[smacame]

Thanks for all the help guys - I haven't purchased a wheel or wheel set for a car before. Just to be super sure: will this (http://m.ebay.com/itm/301600579457?nav=SEARCH) wheel work? There are 135 looking wheels for newer 5 series models is why I ask.

[Don Adolfo]

I recently started having electrical problems. It started after the annual vehicle safety inspection. Shortly after the inspection I started getting an intermittent beep (plus 2 small lights) associated with the alarm system the car had before I bought it. I am pretty sure this was triggered by the OBDII Test; it had happened before. I’ve been driving around like this since I am not driving a lot, expecting to correct it soon…still beeping. More recently, I started experiencing several other problems. The turn signals sometimes stick, they flash inside, but the outside lights do not. They continue to flash for about five seconds even after I turn off the engine and remove the key. Sometimes, the turn signals do not work when I try to use them. The ‘door open’ indicator remains on for about 5 seconds after I have closed the door. I think it is also affecting my iPhone connector; even with a good connection, the music on my iPhone will play a while and then stop. Any ideas what may be wrong? Any suggestions? Thanks.

[BCS_ZHP]

Don, how old is your battery? When they get near the end of their life, weird unexplainable electrical gremlins appear. Bruce

[Don Adolfo]

Not sure. I will have to check.

[stephenkirsh]

Thanks for all the help guys - I haven't purchased a wheel or wheel set for a car before. Just to be super sure: will this (http://m.ebay.com/itm/301600579457?nav=SEARCH) wheel work? There are 135 looking wheels for newer 5 series models is why I ask.

Don't 5 series have different hubs? Maybe that was just the e39?

I've never see a style 135 on a 5 series in the US. Was this imported?

[ryankokesh]

I recently started having electrical problems. It started after the annual vehicle safety inspection. Shortly after the inspection I started getting an intermittent beep (plus 2 small lights) associated with the alarm system the car had before I bought it. I am pretty sure this was triggered by the OBDII Test; it had happened before. I’ve been driving around like this since I am not driving a lot, expecting to correct it soon…still beeping. More recently, I started experiencing several other problems. The turn signals sometimes stick, they flash inside, but the outside lights do not. They continue to flash for about five seconds even after I turn off the engine and remove the key. Sometimes, the turn signals do not work when I try to use them. The ‘door open’ indicator remains on for about 5 seconds after I have closed the door. I think it is also affecting my iPhone connector; even with a good connection, the music on my iPhone will play a while and then stop. Any ideas what may be wrong? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Bruce's battery idea seems very plausible. I'll add to that though and suggest you check for circuits with too much resistance. This is a helpful explanation of voltage drop testing you can do yourself: http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

I'm sure it seems daunting, but you can definitely get to the bottom of it with some investigation :idea

Good luck!

[Don Adolfo]

Thanks Ryan. I will give it a shot.

[ryankokesh]

Thanks Ryan. I will give it a shot.

No problem, hope you get it squared away. Those electrical issues can drive a guy insane...


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[az3579]

5 series wheels are not appropriate for the E46. The center bore is different.

[QC_ZHP]

Broke my plastic skid plate (51-71-8-268-344 I believe is the part #). Tischer has it for $97, I found a used one locally but for $85. Seems like alot of $$ for plastic but I could be wrong. A lot of sites like ECS Tuning are blocked at my work so I can't shop around too well at the moment but I was curious if anyone else had to replace theirs?

[ELCID86]

Try Husker parts and BMW of Fairfax (va) too.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

I think my dad bought his from pelican parts. Best price when considering shipping. That was a year ago, though.

[ClimRox]

While replacing the FCABs and steering coupler today, I found something that looked a little loose and I wasn't sure what it was. Apparently, it is a "stop buffer" part #22116753910. Mine appears to be intact, but not really connected and loose. The oil pan is still too hot right now to try and put it back in place. Could anyone confirm they just snap into place on the cross member?

19521

[theothersawyer]

My seatbelt never likes to retract, anyone have any ideas on how to help fix this or make it any better? I always have to help feed the belt to retract and its super annoying!

[az3579]

My seatbelt never likes to retract, anyone have any ideas on how to help fix this or make it any better? I always have to help feed the belt to retract and its super annoying!
You have to take it apart and clean the retractor mechanism.

[theothersawyer]

That's what I figured! Thank you!

[ClimRox]

Would anyone who has a Shark Injector care to share their good/bad opinion on the product? I have one in my possession that I acquired from a friend who never took it out of the box before he sold his ZHP. In doing a search on this forum, it seems like people like them, but there may be a chance of the install going wrong?

For what its worth, I don't plan to do any performance mods to the car that would require a custom tune. I'm just torn between using it, or possibly selling it so I can more quickly address my ZKW lighting issue.

[johnrando]

I don't have one but I've heard good things about them. They had a short run of a "bad batch" but corrected the problems. So, unless you have one of those, there is no reason not to install it if you want to tweak your performance. You just have to follow the instructions and make sure it's on a battery tender. There's always a chance any install can go wrong but the chances with the Shark are no different that other things if you follow instructions - which means it's low chance of error. If the question is that you can't do both, maintenance/correcting problems would be my first choice. I'm sure someone who has a Shark can chime in.

[az3579]

Would anyone who has a Shark Injector care to share their good/bad opinion on the product? I have one in my possession that I acquired from a friend who never took it out of the box before he sold his ZHP. In doing a search on this forum, it seems like people like them, but there may be a chance of the install going wrong?

For what its worth, I don't plan to do any performance mods to the car that would require a custom tune. I'm just torn between using it, or possibly selling it so I can more quickly address my ZKW lighting issue.

Personally, I'd spend my money elsewhere. I have one and all I can say is "meh".
I bought it for the throttle response increase but realistically, it didn't really do jack for me.

[stephenkirsh]

I recommend don't sell it if you plan on using it. I think most you can get is $225 and they sell for $350 new, right?

[BMWCurves]

Would anyone who has a Shark Injector care to share their good/bad opinion on the product? I have one in my possession that I acquired from a friend who never took it out of the box before he sold his ZHP. In doing a search on this forum, it seems like people like them, but there may be a chance of the install going wrong?

For what its worth, I don't plan to do any performance mods to the car that would require a custom tune. I'm just torn between using it, or possibly selling it so I can more quickly address my ZKW lighting issue.

I might be interested in it if you decide to sell it. How old is it?

[UdubBadger]

If you don't use supporting mods you won't see much benefit from it anyway. At minimum you'll want a drop in filter like an AFe or K&N


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[ClimRox]

I recommend don't sell it if you plan on using it. I think most you can get is $225 and they sell for $350 new, right?

I have seen the few that have been posted on a different forum go in the $250-$280 range (the ones that are BNIB, not the used ones that have to be sent to Turner for a reset that cost some $). Still, you are right that $350 + shipping is a fair amount more than the mid $200s.


I might be interested in it if you decide to sell it. How old is it?

I"m not sure how often they replace stock, but it is the version with the mini-usb port. From what I understand, this is the newer version. PM me if you decide you are interested.


If you don't use supporting mods you won't see much benefit from it anyway. At minimum you'll want a drop in filter like an AFe or K&N

Thank you, and the other members, who have shared their opinion on the product.

[jwalther]

Did you run across my recent thread? http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15217-SONOFABITCH!

I also have the BMW performance intake, and an Active Autoworks exhaust. I've not had the car tested, but guess that I've added 20-25 hp. That's enough to notice a difference vs. stock, but doesn't make the car a drag racer. Money well spent, IMO.

[ClimRox]

^ I did. I'm glad to see that TMS provided excellent customer service.

[BMWCurves]

Is an M3 interior a direct swap with a 330ci interior? I'd like to swap my black interior for Natural Brown way down the road, but that seems like a pipe dream because so few people seem to sell theirs. On the other hand, Cinnamon leather from an M3 seems more attainable.

[UdubBadger]

Seats are different in M3 and cinnamon is probably on higher demand than natural brown


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[BMWCurves]

Seats are different in M3 and cinnamon is probably on higher demand than natural brown


GoingHAM mobile

I thought so. But the M3 front seats would still fit on the same 330Ci rails, correct?

[UdubBadger]

I thought so. But the M3 front seats would still fit on the same 330Ci rails, correct?

yeah, direct swap.

[BMWCurves]

Awesome, thanks!

[ryankokesh]

My seatbelt never likes to retract, anyone have any ideas on how to help fix this or make it any better? I always have to help feed the belt to retract and its super annoying!

+1

Guess I'll be taking that bad boy apart...

[blalor]

I swapped an M3 interior into my ZHP coupé. I prefer the look and feel of the smooth leather to the coarser grain of the stuff that was stock in my car, but the M3 seats are more stuffed, I guess, so I sit a little higher than I'd prefer. I have to recline the seat a little when wearing a helmet.

@ryankokesh is your airbag light on? I just hooked up PASoft to my car, hoping to reset the light after swapping my seats (see above) and the code it shows for that light is due to the driver's side tensioner. Which hasn't been right since I swapped the rest of the interior…*(see above)

[theothersawyer]

+1

Guess I'll be taking that bad boy apart...
Yeah, I don't really feel like taking the car apart, but I can't stand having to feed the seatbelt back in.

[az3579]

...but the M3 seats are more stuffed, I guess, so I sit a little higher than I'd prefer. I have to recline the seat a little when wearing a helmet.

You know, I have a theory about this...
I had the cloth/alcantara seats when I bought my car. I've been looking for a few years for a Natural Brown leather set to swap it out with, and finally was successful after 4 years of searching. I put the interior in, and all of a sudden, I sit higher up than before. I was (and still am) quite perplexed by this, especially since I can't drive in my usual track memory seating position because the helmet doesn't clear the headliner anymore like it used to.

My seats have lumbar support. My theory is that this may be a trait specific to lumbar support cars, though I have absolutely zero evidence to back it up. I need to try sitting in a car that has leather but without lumbar, with my helmet on, to see what it's like.. Do your M3 seats have lumbar support?

[blalor]

Yeah, my seats are loaded. The old ones (standard leather, not alcantara) had neither neat nor lumbar. So there could be something to that. I notice the same thing between my MINI and my wife's MINI. Mine has cloth and leather seats, but hers has the English lounge leather. I sit much higher up in her car.

[ryankokesh]

@ryankokesh is your airbag light on? I just hooked up PASoft to my car, hoping to reset the light after swapping my seats (see above) and the code it shows for that light is due to the driver's side tensioner. Which hasn't been right since I swapped the rest of the interior…*(see above)

Nope... no light for me. It isn't too bad at retracting yet, though.

[NickZHP]

What front jacking point do you guys use to jack up the car to put in the jack stands?

[stephenkirsh]

I first jack up one side of the car about 4 inches using the jack stand point. Then I slide the second jack under the front and use the square thingy on the subframe to jack it up the rest of the way.

[NickZHP]

I first jack up one side of the car about 4 inches using the jack stand point. Then I slide the second jack under the front and use the square thingy on the subframe to jack it up the rest of the way.

So you use two jacks?

[UdubBadger]

Most use 2


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[stephenkirsh]

So you use two jacks?

Yup. Front is too low for most jacks. Alternative is to use ramps OR drive up onto 2x4s. Never done that one myself, though.

[UdubBadger]

I normally can't get under my front but I can with my rears so I do those and get the fronts on stands that way


GoingHAM mobile

[stephenkirsh]

I never thought about it... Where's a jack point on the rear?

[az3579]

On a lowered car, the rear jack point will actually raise both the rear and the front.

Buying a low profile jack is a requirement with these cars. Depending on where in my driveway I am, I occasionally have to drive up on to 2x4's just to get the low profile jack under the car...

[blalor]

If I'm raising the whole car, I do front then rear. I drive the front onto a pair of stacked and staggered 2x6 blocks (one per wheel; wheels stop on top of total thickness of 4", but they're staggered so you can drive up on them). Then I can get a floor jack onto the front subframe jacking point.

Just remember to put the 2x6 blocks back in place before lowering the car, or you'll trap your jack. And then make sure the tires have air in them, or you'll trap your jack even on the blocks. Yes, I did both of these yesterday with my MINI…

[ryankokesh]

I hate this process... Anyone wanna donate a lift to me?


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[NickZHP]

If I'm raising the whole car, I do front then rear. I drive the front onto a pair of stacked and staggered 2x6 blocks (one per wheel; wheels stop on top of total thickness of 4", but they're staggered so you can drive up on them). Then I can get a floor jack onto the front subframe jacking point.

Just remember to put the 2x6 blocks back in place before lowering the car, or you'll trap your jack. And then make sure the tires have air in them, or you'll trap your jack even on the blocks. Yes, I did both of these yesterday with my MINI…

Does that bend the subframe at all?