The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[ELCID86]

And which components would that be? I know there isn't a visible leak in the steering rack. What else could it be? The entire suspension has been replaced in the 2 years I've had the car.

Steering have a guibo or something that would wear out? Couldn't find any parts for that from TMS or ECS.

I believe so. I thought we had a thread on it. Try here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=13077875

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES52315/?gclid=CjwKEAiArqKmBRCOj_qfmuqinnYSJAAkAYwGaEw8pvj k5AIKysXdPqJhuZaAAmnlmE-kgWX-RFo9HxoC7N7w_wcB

[Hornung418]

Does air bag deployment in an E46 activate a kill switch to prevent car from being started?

"No flamesuit required"


Justin?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.


No. Just some dude.

The friendliest forum on the planet.
Justin is me :)

This guy wrecked his car. He did all the repairs himself (to include replacing the air bags) and now needs to drive the car to body and paint shop. But it won't start.

The friendliest forum on the planet.
Did your car start when you got rear ended? I remember my radio was still playing when I had my accident. I don't remember trying to restart it. There's the BST, or Battery Safety Terminal, that explodes in the event of a crash That must be replaced

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/26/c8bf29594a6f903140ce2c020d256797.jpg

"No flamesuit required"


Told him I was pretty sure air bag deployment activated a kill switch of sorts.

"No flamesuit required"


Wow. I would've sent this straight to the scrapper.

Yes...That damage looks much worse than mine. Good on him for fixing it.

[UdubBadger]

I believe so. I thought we had a thread on it. Try here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=13077875

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES52315/?gclid=CjwKEAiArqKmBRCOj_qfmuqinnYSJAAkAYwGaEw8pvj k5AIKysXdPqJhuZaAAmnlmE-kgWX-RFo9HxoC7N7w_wcB

Awesome thanks Shawn.

If I'm replacing the reservoir how much fluid should I pick up?

[Vas]

If your trunk is double locked then unlocking all the doors won't unlock the trunk but the trunk key fob button still will open it. This is to prevent a valet or window smashing thief from being able to open your trunk. Use key to turn trunk lock to the left (counter-clockwise) and then the trunk should unlock when all the other doors are unlocked. Unless your trunk latch switch has failed.

Maybe it is my trunk latch switch that is bad then. After pressing it a numerous amount of times, it started working. Maybe it has something to do with the cold weather.

[Vas]

Awesome thanks Shawn.

If I'm replacing the reservoir how much fluid should I pick up?

I replaced the steering couplter/guibo with an AKG unit.

[UdubBadger]

Didn't know they made one! How you like it?


GoingHAM mobile

[UdubBadger]

Hmmmm don't see it on their site?


GoingHAM mobile

[ELCID86]

Awesome thanks Shawn.

If I'm replacing the reservoir how much fluid should I pick up?

I think 2 bottles of ATF is what I used.

[UdubBadger]

Ohhhh found it Vas. It's Aluminum or Poly 75D and recommended for race vehicles only. (Unless you got a 90A version and they are just out of stock)

Gonna need some feedback before plunging into that as I want to retain some normal drivability on the car.


GoingHAM mobile

[UdubBadger]

I think 2 bottles of ATF is what I used.

Cool thanks


GoingHAM mobile

[Vas]

Ohhhh found it Vas. It's Aluminum or Poly 75D and recommended for race vehicles only. (Unless you got a 90A version and they are just out of stock)

Gonna need some feedback before plunging into that as I want to retain some normal drivability on the car.


GoingHAM mobile
I got the red poly on both of my cars and love it. Dario just installed one on his e46 m3 and says it a a great upgrade over the factory rubber.

[UdubBadger]

I got the red poly on both of my cars and love it. Dario just installed one on his e46 m3 and says it a a great upgrade over the factory rubber.

Still comfortable for everyday driving?


GoingHAM mobile

[LivesNearCostco]

OK here's a random question. If already answered in another thread please let me know.

Before whenever I checked my oil level cold or hot after sitting for at least 10 minutes, the stick was almost dry above the oil level. I could see the level on the stick without wiping off the stick, unless I had just shut off the motor. Now whenever I check the oil, the whole bottom of the dipstick is covered in oil and I must wipe it off and reinsert the dipstick to see the level. I've noticed this since Dec 15, 2014 when I last changed the oil. But it's possible it was happening earlier.

My best theory is the old CCV wasn't draining much oil back into the dipstick tube and the new CCV (changed March 2014) recovers enough oil to coat the whole bottom of the dipstick in normal driving. But seems strange that I wouldn't notice this from March to December. Of course I crashed the car in late July and didn't drive it for 2 months, but still I think I would have noticed it before. Since the crash and repair the only engine stuff I changed was water pump, tensioner/idler pulleys, and a power steering hose (this was happening before the recent VCG job).

So... when you let the car sit and then check the oil, is the stick fairly dry above the oil level or do you need to wipe off the dipstick end every time?

[Vas]

Still comfortable for everyday driving?


GoingHAM mobile
I think so. Wife has no complaints on her zhp with it.

[stephenkirsh]

So... when you let the car sit and then check the oil, is the stick fairly dry above the oil level or do you need to wipe off the dipstick end every time?

I've never needed to wipe my dipstick off to check the oil level. On both my e46. My zhp had ccv changed about a year ago and I didn't notice a difference.

I generally keep my zhp about 1/2 quart over filled to eliminate lifter tick for autox. Not sure if that makes a difference.

[UdubBadger]

I think so. Wife has no complaints on her zhp with it.

Sweet I might just do that then


GoingHAM mobile

[stephenkirsh]

Has coby wheel website changed?

[UdubBadger]

What do you mean?


GoingHAM mobile

[derbo]

Has coby wheel website changed?

Layout has definitely changed since I last visited it.

[stephenkirsh]

Site wasn't working earlier. Looks ok now.

[danewilson77]

Site wasn't working earlier. Looks ok now.
What site?

"No flamesuit required"

[CTYankee]

The pad under my hood has mouse damage. Thankfully... That's all the critter did. Was there when I purchased the car. Would like to replay but I reading a lot of negative reviews that pads don't fit properly, the tabs are breaking etc. Does anyone have a good source to buy a replacement pad as well as the tabs? Thanks.

[ELCID86]

The pad under my hood has mouse damage. Thankfully... That's all the critter did. Was there when I purchased the car. Would like to replay but I reading a lot of negative reviews that pads don't fit properly, the tabs are breaking etc. Does anyone have a good source to buy a replacement pad as well as the tabs? Thanks.

I trashed mine and have not replaced it. Others have done the same. Otherwise the dealer is probably a good option.

[derbo]

I did not replace mine. I just tossed mine.

[stephenkirsh]

What site?

"No flamesuit required"

Coby wheel wasn't working for me. Went to check price of arm rest cover and the site didn't exist. Wouldn't load at all.

[ELCID86]

Coby wheel wasn't working for me. Went to check price of arm rest cover and the site didn't exist. Wouldn't load at all.

Still? Works on iPhone via Chrome.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

Nono. Works fine now. Seemed to only be down for a few hours earlier this week.

[derbo]

Nono. Works fine now. Seemed to only be down for a few hours earlier this week.

I wonder if it was site maintenance or DDOS attack :)

[Fenrir]

Hey guys, random question time. It's well past due for me to replace my old Depo headlights and I've found a few options. Khoalty sells the Depo headlights for a decent price and while I was browsing Rock Auto I saw that they now sell Hella OEM style lights. I can't afford to go to the dealer and order the actual OEM headlights and Ebay lights are out of the question. Would you guys recommend another set of Depos or trying to find some used OEM lights? And does anyone here have any experience or knowledge on the Rock Auto Hella headlights?

[danewilson77]

No thought of keeping yours and going the TRS route or Lightwerks?

"No flamesuit required"

[stephenkirsh]

You replacing the lenses or everything?

[Fenrir]

No thought of keeping yours and going the TRS route or Lightwerks?

"No flamesuit required"
You know, I hadn't looked into that. Tiiime to do some research.

You replacing the lenses or everything?
Everything. But I'm going to look into what Dane mentioned as well.

[az3579]

I would get a used OE setup.


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[derbo]

I would get a used OE setup.


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AL too. :)

[az3579]

AL too. :)

He has a coupe so he doesn't have any other option. ;)


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[Fenrir]

He has a coupe so he doesn't have any other option. ;)


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Si senor lol.

[ELCID86]

I would get a used OE setup.


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+1. I had Depo and got OE used off e46f. Then sold the Depos.


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[Fenrir]

+1. I had Depo and got OE used off e46f. Then sold the Depos.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

That's looking like the current path I'll take. Now to find someone selling some lol.

[derbo]

That's looking like the current path I'll take. Now to find someone selling some lol.

Look at E46F for part outs in the parting out section.

[Fenrir]

Look at E46F for part outs in the parting out section.
Just finished looking there as a matter of fact lol. Someone is selling a set of oem's from an 06 coupe. Gonna text him tomorrow and see what he's asking for them.

[bshovers]

Does anyone run both a shark injector and sprint booster. I already have the sprint booster. Thinking about getting a shark injector too. Mainly for the low end torque addition.


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[danewilson77]

Does anyone run both a shark injector and sprint booster. I already have the sprint booster. Thinking about getting a shark injector too. Mainly for the low end torque addition.


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I'm running both.

"No flamesuit required"

[johnrando]

Two completely different things that compliment each other well run together or individually. I have an AA tune and an SB.

[stephenkirsh]

My sunroof sometimes bounces back when trying to close.

Any suggestions?

[ELCID86]

My sunroof sometimes bounces back when trying to close.

Any suggestions?

That happened in a car I was checking out for someone here. I think the Subsequent PPI said it was a sensor. Hopefully someone here knows.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[ryankokesh]

I'm almost positive there's a way to recalibrate it... lemme see if I can find anything.

Edit:
Got it! Looks like you hold the close button for a bit. Recalibrating a Sunroof (http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=633758)

[stephenkirsh]

Ok I'll give that a try.

Any suggestions for a lubricant for the tracks?

[ELCID86]

Ok I'll give that a try.

Any suggestions for a lubricant for the tracks?

Synthetic Lithium


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[bshovers]

Is there a way to reset the moving mirros while in reverse function? Mine is driving me nuts right now...I think with the Wisconsin weather it didn't go down once or twice. Now when I hit the key fob to unlock the car the mirror points straight down and i have to adjust it manually before i reverse.

[ryankokesh]

Is there a way to reset the moving mirros while in reverse function? Mine is driving me nuts right now...I think with the Wisconsin weather it didn't go down once or twice. Now when I hit the key fob to unlock the car the mirror points straight down and i have to adjust it manually before i reverse.

It does it when you unlock the doors...? Never heard of that...

I think there's a setting you can change in INPA/PA Soft.

[danewilson77]

It does it when you unlock the doors...? Never heard of that...

+1

"No flamesuit required"

[bshovers]

It does it when you unlock the doors...? Never heard of that...

I think there's a setting you can change in INPA/PA Soft.

Well when I unlock the door using the key fob I can hear something like the mirror wants to adjust/is adjusting. Then when I get into the car the mirror is totally off. Then I have to adjust it before I drive off or go in reverse.


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[Hornung418]

Well when I unlock the door using the key fob I can hear something like the mirror wants to adjust/is adjusting. Then when I get into the car the mirror is totally off. Then I have to adjust it before I drive off or go in reverse.


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It's synced to your key. Do you have two keys to test it with?

I noticed my seat was moving when I first got the car. Get everything adjusted and save the positions with the buttons on the side of the driver seat.

[ryankokesh]

It's synced to your key. Do you have two keys to test it with?

I noticed my seat was moving when I first got the car. Get everything adjusted and save the positions with the buttons on the side of the driver seat.

We have a winner!


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[az3579]

Is there a way to reset the moving mirros while in reverse function? Mine is driving me nuts right now...I think with the Wisconsin weather it didn't go down once or twice. Now when I hit the key fob to unlock the car the mirror points straight down and i have to adjust it manually before i reverse.

I have a similar problem but mine is a failing driver's side mirror motor. If that motor fails, it will affect the other one (from what I'm told).
Try whatever sync procedure you find. If that doesn't work, you'll want to get your car scanned to see if you have codes for the mirror LIN bus.

Because I'm a broke ass, I unplugged my mirror fuse so the passenger mirror stays put.

[bshovers]

I have a similar problem but mine is a failing driver's side mirror motor. If that motor fails, it will affect the other one (from what I'm told).
Try whatever sync procedure you find. If that doesn't work, you'll want to get your car scanned to see if you have codes for the mirror LIN bus.

Because I'm a broke ass, I unplugged my mirror fuse so the passenger mirror stays put.

Yeah I'll do that. I'm not going to put a new motor in it if that's the case. But I think mine is just opposite of what it should be lol. I'll keep an eye on it see what happens.


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[danewilson77]

Not very often I run across something I can't figure out on Realoem.com but I have this for you.

I ordered the below, but now need the piece that goes underneath it. # stumped

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/a364c1da9a33322d243870ac96fd0e0e.jpg

This piece has had a couple of scuffs on the underside since I've owned the car but they're not visible under normal operation, so it didn't really bug me, but now that I'm perfecting the interior I'd like to replace it.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/64e97ab337c1d9cf22bab41d6fa0c0c7.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

[johnrando]

Is there a way to reset the moving mirros while in reverse function? Mine is driving me nuts right now...I think with the Wisconsin weather it didn't go down once or twice. Now when I hit the key fob to unlock the car the mirror points straight down and i have to adjust it manually before i reverse.

Do you mean when you go into reverse and your right mirror points down? That's connected to your side view mirror adjuster button. If the button is toward the right, the mirror will go down. If it's toward the left, it doesn't go down.

[danewilson77]

Do you mean when you go into reverse and your right mirror points down? That's connected to your side view mirror adjuster button. If the button is toward the right, the mirror will go down. If it's toward the left, it doesn't go down.

I thought he was referring to something that happens from his key fob. I haz no idea :dunno

The friendliest forum on the planet.

[bshovers]

Do you mean when you go into reverse and your right mirror points down? That's connected to your side view mirror adjuster button. If the button is toward the right, the mirror will go down. If it's toward the left, it doesn't go down.

Yeah my problem is when I have it set to the right to go down when I'm in reverse it is not calibrated correctly and points way too far down. I pressed my memory seat button this morning on the way to work I'll see if that solves the issue. I just installed my Colby wheel and had to disconnect my battery I was hoping this was going to solve the problem but it didn't hmmm.


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[derbo]

I have a similar problem but mine is a failing driver's side mirror motor. If that motor fails, it will affect the other one (from what I'm told).
Try whatever sync procedure you find. If that doesn't work, you'll want to get your car scanned to see if you have codes for the mirror LIN bus.

Because I'm a broke ass, I unplugged my mirror fuse so the passenger mirror stays put.

The driver mirror motor on the LIN bus is the master motor. The passenger motor is a slave motor. BP is right and check for errors. Usually it is a bad connection on the ribbon somewhere. You can fix it with solder if you want.


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[johnrando]

While at the dealer for the air bag recall, they said I have a leak in my oil pan housing gasket. The DIY says you have to get to the control arms so you can/may want to replace them when you're there. I have 71K DD miles, no tracking. Should I replace the control arms when I'm there? The bushings were changed under CPO at around 50K miles.

[Hermes]

Not very often I run across something I can't figure out on Realoem.com but I have this for you.

I ordered the below, but now need the piece that goes underneath it. # stumped

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/a364c1da9a33322d243870ac96fd0e0e.jpg

This piece has had a couple of scuffs on the underside since I've owned the car but they're not visible under normal operation, so it didn't really bug me, but now that I'm perfecting the interior I'd like to replace it.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/07/64e97ab337c1d9cf22bab41d6fa0c0c7.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

I don't think you can order just the bottom, your best bet is to plastidip yours since it's not really visible anyways

[Vas]

While at the dealer for the air bag recall, they said I have a leak in my oil pan housing gasket. The DIY says you have to get to the control arms so you can/may want to replace them when you're there. I have 71K DD miles, no tracking. Should I replace the control arms when I'm there? The bushings were changed under CPO at around 50K miles.
I didn't touch my control arms when doing the oil pan gasket.

[johnrando]

I didn't touch my control arms when doing the oil pan gasket.

How did you do yours, did you cut it?

[danewilson77]

I don't think you can order just the bottom, your best bet is to plastidip yours since it's not really visible anyways
Gawd I hate you can order one piece and not the other. Guess I have a brand new one for sale.

I hate you can't even order the assembly.

"No flamesuit required"

[Vas]

How did you do yours, did you cut it?
No cutting. Check my imola project thread.

[Vas]

Gawd I hate you can order one piece and not the other. Guess I have a brand new one for sale.

I hate you can't even order the assembly.

"No flamesuit required"
I was in the same boat. Only option was to find a used armrest in good condition or buy a brand new complete assembly with the leather armrest.

[az3579]

Yeah my problem is when I have it set to the right to go down when I'm in reverse it is not calibrated correctly and points way too far down. I pressed my memory seat button this morning on the way to work I'll see if that solves the issue. I just installed my Colby wheel and had to disconnect my battery I was hoping this was going to solve the problem but it didn't hmmm.


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By default, it tilts alllllllllll the way down when it dips the mirror. It can be adjusted, but only if you enable that feature via coding. Otherwise, it's all the way down or disabled, no in between.

I coded mine so I could adjust how far it dips. If this is the only problem you're having, it's not actually a problem; it's working as designed.

[TWong1200]

Can you please provide details on what you coded? I can't stand it tilting so far down. Useless that low, IMO

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[az3579]

Can you please provide details on what you coded? I can't stand it tilting so far down. Useless that low, IMO

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Using NCS Expert, I coded the line called SPIEGELMEMORY_GM in the GM5 module. I changed the value from nicht_aktiv to aktiv.

[OtterEffect]

Anyone running a dashcam?


Ate the potato! Bought and iPhone 6 :)

[stephenkirsh]

Permanently or for track events?

[OtterEffect]

Permanently


Ate the potato! Bought and iPhone 6 :)

[ryankokesh]

Permanently


Ate the potato! Bought and iPhone 6 :)

I do. :hi

Say, how long do folks budget to get a set of struts/shocks installed? Couple hours?

[UdubBadger]

1 hr per


GoingHAM mobile

[UdubBadger]

Do that shit yourself dude, your wallet will thank you.


GoingHAM mobile

[OtterEffect]

I do. :hi



What kind? Any problems with it so far?

[ryankokesh]

Do that shit yourself dude, your wallet will thank you.


GoingHAM mobile

That's why I'm asking how long... Trying to figure out when I have time to do it, lol. :thumbsup


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[ryankokesh]

What kind? Any problems with it so far?

So far no major problems. It was only like a $40 one so quality isn't stellar. Sound quality is kinda crummy, but that's not really what you buy it for, I suppose.

18048


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[onaquest]

Question: On a sedan does the light assembly need to be pulled out to open the lowbeam cover?
I wanted to look at the back of my xenon projector bowls to see if there's any sign of 'burning' but it seems pretty tight on space

[danewilson77]

No.

"No flamesuit required"

[danewilson77]

I will say, its pretty tight though.

"No flamesuit required"

[onaquest]

okay, ill fist it some more later when i get home :applause2

[NickZHP]

Has anyone here swapped their differential with a different e46 non-M diff? I want to get the rear swap from an M3 with LSD but availability and funds are kind of getting in the way right now so I am thinking about getting a 3.46 diff without LSD from another e46 because they seem to be somewhere around $150-$300. Is the upgrade worth it?

[stephenkirsh]

I know it's done quite frequently. Never heard anybody complain about them.

[ryankokesh]

okay, ill fist it some more later when i get home :applause2

:rofl

You do have to kind of angle the cover thing just so. It takes a little bit of finagling, but you'll figure it out.

[stephenkirsh]

Anybody used OEM brake pads for autox or track duty? This would be on a DD that gets tracked super rarely.

[UdubBadger]

yeah for a day you should be fine, don't worry too much about it.

[derbo]

Anybody used OEM brake pads for autox or track duty? This would be on a DD that gets tracked super rarely.


yeah for a day you should be fine, don't worry too much about it.

Just be aware they will cook fast. My first track outing, I cooked my brakes the first session. I was pushing pretty hard I guess..

[stephenkirsh]

My dad is asking. He's doing brakes soon and is thinking of doing an HPDE1 with me. Thx guys

[derbo]

My dad is asking. He's doing brakes soon and is thinking of doing an HPDE1 with me. Thx guys

For a first time out, I wouldn't worry about it. My cousin doesn't cook his OE pads when he tracks. I cooked it on my first outing so I think its also how comfortable your dad will be pushing the car to it's limits.

[BADCLOWN]

I just found out last week that my car doesnt have a spare in it. Did our cars come with a full size steel wheel spare? Does a 5th style 135 fit in there?

[UdubBadger]

I'd recommend at least aftermarket pads if he's switching.

Akebono, Stoptech performance, hawk HPS...

If you think he might do it more look into hawk HP+ as they will be better on track but still warm up well on street.

GoingHAM mobile

[Ssparrow]

Getting ready to change my tranny and diff fluid, six speed manual. Any recommendations on which fluid to use? Seen this sticker on the trans
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/26/4ab33379d4494b2ca97e91959848a479.jpg

Thinking of going with this route for the tranny

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2597235/

But what about the diff? Thanks guys!
Also, should I change the plugs just to be safe or is it not really needed?

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[Hermes]

Yup, get MTL. For the diff get 75-90 or Kendall 80-90

When were the plugs last changed? Appx 60k is the interval that they should be done

[az3579]

Anybody used OEM brake pads for autox or track duty? This would be on a DD that gets tracked super rarely.

Depends on how hard he drives it. Personally I would never fathom using OE pads on the track. Squishy brakes is a miserable experience. If he takes it easy he should be OK.


I'd recommend at least aftermarket pads if he's switching.

Akebono, Stoptech performance, hawk HPS...

If you think he might do it more look into hawk HP+ as they will be better on track but still warm up well on street.

GoingHAM mobile

The only way HP+ pads are streetable is if you use them to drive to the event, perform, drive back, and immediately swap them out. HP+ pads squeal loud enough under everyday use to make your ears bleed.


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[johnrando]

I just found out last week that my car doesnt have a spare in it. Did our cars come with a full size steel wheel spare? Does a 5th style 135 fit in there?

Mine came with that donut spare. I think an 8.0 225 wheel/tire combo fit. (But not in my vert unfortunately - at least not flat).

[Ssparrow]

Yup, get MTL. For the diff get 75-90 or Kendall 80-90

When were the plugs last changed? Appx 60k is the interval that they should be done

As far as I know the fluid has never been changed. I'll just go ahead and change em.

One more question, torque for the plugs on the tranny and diff?

Thanks!


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[UdubBadger]

Getting ready to change my tranny and diff fluid, six speed manual. Any recommendations on which fluid to use? Seen this sticker on the trans
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/26/4ab33379d4494b2ca97e91959848a479.jpg

Thinking of going with this route for the tranny

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2597235/

But what about the diff? Thanks guys!
Also, should I change the plugs just to be safe or is it not really needed?

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Thats what I used, Redline all the way. I went 75-90 with my M for the diff. Remember to replace the bolt/plugs too.

[UdubBadger]

Depends on how hard he drives it. Personally I would never fathom using OE pads on the track. Squishy brakes is a miserable experience. If he takes it easy he should be OK.



The only way HP+ pads are streetable is if you use them to drive to the event, perform, drive back, and immediately swap them out. HP+ pads squeal loud enough under everyday use to make your ears bleed.


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Yeah I read that last night actually. I'm gonna go Cool Carbon I think because of that. Cheaper too. ;)

[az3579]

Yeah I read that last night actually. I'm gonna go Cool Carbon I think because of that. Cheaper too. ;)

I will confirm it with experience. I daily drove them for a week because I didn't feel like swapping pads twice in a week (had another event the following week) so I just lived with it. After a certain point when our ears stopped bleeding, my friend and I just laughed every single time I had to brake at a light. I've had a couple of people lean out their cars and say "yo, fix your brakes!". It was embarrassing to say the least.

The performance of the pads are excellent though!

[UdubBadger]

yeah i just don't feel like swapping pads - ever - so I'm just going to go with something that can be daily driven (even tho car is now a garage queen) but perform well on the track.

Eventually when tracking becomes a more regular occurrence I might splurge and just get some real track pads. I want to see if I'm any good of a driver first tho. lol

[ryankokesh]

I want to see if I'm any good of a driver first tho. lol

Well in that case, you've got nothing to worry about at all :ronald

[danewilson77]

I just found out last week that my car doesnt have a spare in it. Did our cars come with a full size steel wheel spare? Does a 5th style 135 fit in there?
No full size. Just a donut.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

Well in that case, you've got nothing to worry about at all :ronald

I cast a spell on your ZHP that your expansion tank will break every time you are more than an hour away from home.

[ryankokesh]

I cast a spell on your ZHP that your expansion tank will break every time you are more than an hour away from home.

I keep wondering if anyone's going to come out with an aluminum one or something. There's gotta be a better solution....

[stephenkirsh]

No full size. Just a donut.

"No flamesuit required"


Mine came with that donut spare. I think an 8.0 225 wheel/tire combo fit. (But not in my vert unfortunately - at least not flat).


I just found out last week that my car doesnt have a spare in it. Did our cars come with a full size steel wheel spare? Does a 5th style 135 fit in there?

I fit a 245/45/17 in there on a 17x8.5 wheel. It was tight and the floor board stuck up about 1/2", but it worked.

[danewilson77]

I fit a 245/45/17 in there on a 17x8.5 wheel. It was tight and the floor board stuck up about 1/2", but it worked.
Did this as well. But with an 18x8.

"No flamesuit required"

[GE Geoff]

Hey guys, I got random one here:
Looking into my #3 FI leak this morning I noticed I was absent my Intake air temp sensor. I have no CEL at this time nor am I popping any codes (checked last week), and by the looks of all the dust and dirt in there it's been missing for some time. There is an OEM looking plastic plug installed in the IAT sensor port so I'm a little baffled.
I am just curious, can you guys confirm that you do in fact have an IAT sensor installed? I have a couple of crappy pictures I snapped this morning for refrence in case I am mistakingly calling this something else or in the wrong spot for it.
I did check with Realoem (signed in with my VIN) and it indicated that this was installed on my car (or supposed to be).
I cannot find the Wiring Harness or connector for it either, so..... :dunno
1829418295

[wsmeyer]

Looks exactly like that on mine and Rando's car. I examined mine closely out of the car and it's a plug. I assumed for something on another model that used the same intake.

[GE Geoff]

Thank you wsmeyer, I really appreciate you looking into that. I was getting a little bit more than concerned. think I'll relax a bit now.

[alexandre]

I have a cylinder 6 misfire code. Car sounds like a 1970s muscle car. How do I diagnose this ? I assume it's either coil pack or plug.

[ELCID86]

I have a cylinder 6 misfire code. Car sounds like a 1970s muscle car. How do I diagnose this ? I assume it's either coil pack or plug.
Dude. sorry to hear that. I have a period one on cylinder #2 and plan to replace all of the coils. Mine does not sound bad though. The plug didn't blow out did it??

[BADCLOWN]

I'm banking on plug. Swap your cyl 6 coil with a different one after clearing the code and check again. If the cyl misfire changes then the coil is bad. If it stays on 6 than the plug is bad. Of course......if it's one of those two problems.

[wsmeyer]

Wouldn't a bad or clogged injector cause same symptoms?

[Stewbie]

yeah i just don't feel like swapping pads - ever - so I'm just going to go with something that can be daily driven (even tho car is now a garage queen) but perform well on the track.

Eventually when tracking becomes a more regular occurrence I might splurge and just get some real track pads. I want to see if I'm any good of a driver first tho. lol
Check Turner Motorsports website. They have a guide on the pros and cons of various brands of pads.

[UdubBadger]

Thanks bud


GoingHAM mobile

[stephenkirsh]

18311

Any idea how to get under the hood emblem to pop it out? I couldn't get it to budge, even with my trim tools. It's super tight. Fishing wire won't even get under there.

[danewilson77]

18311

Any idea how to get under the hood emblem to pop it out? I couldn't get it to budge, even with my trim tools. It's super tight. Fishing wire won't even get under there.
Take a rag, with a standard screwdriver. Rag on paint, driver on rag, and just place the tip of the driver on the edge of the eblem. Then twist with a moderate amount if force, but not enough force to go through the rag. Be careful. Once you get it started, it'll all be down hill.

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

I used a non-marring tool. I've also heard dental floss can work.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[fredo]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strapping#/media/File:Box_with_strapping.jpg

I used box plastic straps with success. Just start on one side, pull the roundel up a little, move to the other side, and repeat as needed.

EDIT : posted a pic above.

[WOLFN8TR]

Business Card, slide it under the emblem then pop that sucker off with a small flat blade screwdriver.

[danewilson77]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strapping#/media/File:Box_with_strapping.jpg

I used box plastic straps with success. Just start on one side, pull the roundel up a little, move to the other side, and repeat as needed.

EDIT : posted a pic above.



Business Card, slide it under the emblem then pop that sucker off with a small flat blade screwdriver.

I've used both these options as well.

"No flamesuit required"

[fredo]

I like the box plastic straps because a screwdriver never gets close to the paint. That would make me nervous.

[danewilson77]

I like the box plastic straps because a screwdriver never gets close to the paint. That would make me nervous.
If you use a cc, the driver won't get close. This is the method I used the other day on bootlid.

"No flamesuit required"

[derbo]

yeah i just don't feel like swapping pads - ever - so I'm just going to go with something that can be daily driven (even tho car is now a garage queen) but perform well on the track.

Eventually when tracking becomes a more regular occurrence I might splurge and just get some real track pads. I want to see if I'm any good of a driver first tho. lol
PFC Z-rated pads, Stoptech Street Pads are two very good pads for starters. They have a higher heat tolerance than OE pads and if you are a good driver you can get a good amount of beating from them before they cook.

sent from my phone

[brettbimmer]

PFC Z-rated pads, Stoptech Street Pads are two very good pads for starters. They have a higher heat tolerance than OE pads and if you are a good driver you can get a good amount of beating from them before they cook.

sent from my phone
+1.

[UdubBadger]

I'm already running stop tech performance pads. Ready to go a notch higher.


GoingHAM mobile

[brettbimmer]

I keep wondering if anyone's going to come out with an aluminum one or something. There's gotta be a better solution....
How about a carbon fiber tank?? Light weight and sexy appearance.

I cast a spell on your ZHP that your expansion tank will break every time you are more than an hour away from home.

[derbo]

I'm already running stop tech performance pads. Ready to go a notch higher.


GoingHAM mobile


Are you fading your brake pads? What kind of brake fluid are you using?

[UdubBadger]

ATE gold and SS lines

Not fading just want more bite really.


GoingHAM mobile

[Ssparrow]

Okay so I've had this problem ever since I did my cooling system overhaul, every now and then my low coolant light comes on. No loss of coolant anywhere. Level never moves in the expansion tank. Temperature needle is always dead center. I've swapped over my old level sensor and haven't had any luck.

Anyone know what's going on? I'm thinking since I didn't go oem on my expansion tank it's causing problems with the level sensor (read that somewhere) should I go out and buy a new one or are there any tips you guys have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

You've most likely got a bubble working it's way around in the system. I'd bleed it again.

"No flamesuit required"

[Ssparrow]

Was thinking that as well but I've bled twice now and never noticed any more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw. I suppose I can try again. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

Was thinking that as well but I've bled twice now and never noticed any more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw. I suppose I can try again. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lift the car by the driver side and bleed the system.

Alternatively I've heard of techs just filling the system until the fluid spills out of the bleeder. Then run the engine and repeat. Seems to work 100% of the time.

[Ssparrow]

Lift the car by the driver side and bleed the system.

Alternatively I've heard of techs just filling the system until the fluid spills out of the bleeder. Then run the engine and repeat. Seems to work 100% of the time.

Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a shot once the car cools down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

Lift the car by the driver side and bleed the system.

Alternatively I've heard of techs just filling the system until the fluid spills out of the bleeder. Then run the engine and repeat. Seems to work 100% of the time.

Temp and Fan on high?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

Take a rag, with a standard screwdriver. Rag on paint, driver on rag, and just place the tip of the driver on the edge of the eblem. Then twist with a moderate amount if force, but not enough force to go through the rag. Be careful. Once you get it started, it'll all be down hill.

"No flamesuit required"


I used a non-marring tool. I've also heard dental floss can work.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.


Business Card, slide it under the emblem then pop that sucker off with a small flat blade screwdriver.

Tried a plastic gift card and a business card. Nothing is getting under this thing. The cards bent in half. They're way too thick. I've no idea how you guys did that.

ECST has a DIY video with what is basically a box strap. They show it just sliding under the emblem. No way that's happening on mine.

I tried three different screw drivers, including the one in the trunk tool kit. Not even close.

[Hornung418]

Temp and Fan on high?


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
Fan on low...temp on high.

[Ssparrow]

Fan on low...temp on high.

Yeah I've always made sure to do that, with the three red dots on the vent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

Fan on low...temp on high.

Thanks Justin.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

Tried a plastic gift card and a business card. Nothing is getting under this thing. The cards bent in half. They're way too thick. I've no idea how you guys did that.

ECST has a DIY video with what is basically a box strap. They show it just sliding under the emblem. No way that's happening on mine.

I tried three different screw drivers, including the one in the trunk tool kit. Not even close.

I said screw it and didn't use any protection on the screw driver since I've exhausted my options. Marked the pain a bit, but only under the emblem. So no worries. Used a combo screw driver/trim removal tool.

18328

[UdubBadger]

I think I used some thin plastic shim thingy Turner or ECS sells

[GE Geoff]

Lift the car by the driver side and bleed the system.

Thanks Hornung, might havw to use this next time! :thumbup

[johnrando]

Glad you got that done. Strange it was that tight/flat.

[derbo]

ATE gold and SS lines

Not fading just want more bite really.


GoingHAM mobile

Instant bite or high temp bite?

My track pads have terrible low-temp bite but when at the limit, I have a ton of brake bite and vice versa on the Stoptech Street pads.

I personally use Stoptech Street pads for daily and Carbotech XP12 for track. My next option is PFC-Zrated for street and PFC08/06 for track but that is about $900 worth of pads..

[UdubBadger]

Yeah not kidding, expensive.


I want good initial bite DD that will hold up well on the track. I'm not running the 24 hrs of LeMans (yet) so probably not a fully dedicated track pad yet needed but want something better than what the Stoptechs are giving me now as it don't plan on changing pads every time I go out.


GoingHAM mobile

[derbo]

Yeah not kidding, expensive.


I want good initial bite DD that will hold up well on the track. I'm not running the 24 hrs of LeMans (yet) so probably not a fully dedicated track pad yet needed but want something better than what the Stoptechs are giving me now as it don't plan on changing pads every time I go out.


GoingHAM mobile

A pad made of out unobtainium would work best! Any dual purpose pad will sacrifice initial cold bite to obtain a higher temperature range of operation. The top edge of the range will be lower than a full-fledge track pad and be a medium track pad. Stoptech Streets are probably your best bet unfortunately. If you want something more, I highly suggest a street and track pad setup. I personally like this method because it lets me double check the car for inspection while I install the track pad/rotors.




StopTech Street Performance brake pads offer an unusual combination of good bite, low noise, and extremely wide temperature range, making them ideal as "dual use" street to medium track pads. Included with StopTech big brake kits and available for most OEM calipers. Zeckhausen Racing's preferred high performance street pads for aggressive drivers.



Hawk HPS high performance street pads have low dust, low noise, and low rotor wear. Slightly higher in friction level than Hawk Ceramic pads with a similar MOT of around 750 degrees F. Not recommended for track use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when the MOT is exceeded.


Hawk HP PLUS high performance street pads have moderate dust, moderate rotor wear, very high initial bite and a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) slightly higher than Hawk HPS. They tend to be noisy, often squealing under light braking, although proper bedding can help. Ideal for autocross and may be used for track days on lower horsepower cars. Not recommended for heavy track use, as friction level falls off rapidly when MOT is exceeded.

[UdubBadger]

I looked into the HP+ but heard horror stories of ears bleeding on the streets when braking.

I've had cool carbons before on my 1er and loved um so will probably go that route again. The stop techs are good but I think the CC will bite a touch more if I remember correctly.


GoingHAM mobile

[derbo]

I looked into the HP+ but heard horror stories of ears bleeding on the streets when braking.

I've had cool carbons before on my 1er and loved um so will probably go that route again. The stop techs are good but I think the CC will bite a touch more if I remember correctly.


GoingHAM mobile

I hated the cool carbons on the track. They had terrible pedal feel and became very spongy at the track. I was on ATE Type 200 and SS Lines at the time and I really hated the pedal feel. The brakes itself didn't keep up with the heat at Laguna Seca or Buttonwillow. I brake faded them within the first session and was pissed the whole day that the brakes could not even do a full session.

My personal preference is to stay away from Cool Carbons as a "dual purpose" pad.


HP+ squeal like no other. A high dust pad with mediocre track pad properties. IMO not a good track pad for our heavy cars.

[UdubBadger]

So you think Stoptech Street is a better option than Cool Carbon? Or just telling me to man the hell up and get 2 sets of pads lol?


GoingHAM mobile

[az3579]

HP+ squeal like no other. A high dust pad with mediocre track pad properties. IMO not a good track pad for our heavy cars.

It's interesting you say that about the HP+ because I have the opposite experience with them. Their performance has been superb for me on Lime Rock Park, Watkins Glen, and Calabogie Motorsports Park. I never once had brake fade and the bite has been very good both on and off track.

It goes without saying that I am not easy on my brakes. I've had pads cook not even halfway through the first session before...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[UdubBadger]

What about the daily driveability of those BP?

[derbo]

So you think Stoptech Street is a better option than Cool Carbon? Or just telling me to man the hell up and get 2 sets of pads lol?


GoingHAM mobile

I'm saying you are looking for a Holy Grail pad that doesn't exist. If you want low noise, regular dust, high bite, high temps, its going to be next to impossible to find something in that range. 2 Pads is a good idea and I would recommend 2 pads from the same manufacturer so their compounds would have a better chance of bedding in properly on the same rotor. Otherwise sacrifice the noise, and the HP+ is probably good enough..



It's interesting you say that about the HP+ because I have the opposite experience with them. Their performance has been superb for me on Lime Rock Park, Watkins Glen, and Calabogie Motorsports Park. I never once had brake fade and the bite has been very good both on and off track.

It goes without saying that I am not easy on my brakes. I've had pads cook not even halfway through the first session before...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BP,

did you run them on the 135i calipers or did you run them on the stock caliper? One thing I might think account for lower brake temperatures is that you have some tracks that have a lot of long straights that help with cooling those brakes. Laguna barely has a straight and Buttonwillow barely has one as well. Thunder hill is the closest thing to having a straight for us. I've tried them on an E46 M3 with stock calipers and a few s2000s and they constantly would overheat them at Laguna Seca, Buttonwillow mainly. I wish I had some temperature readings to see what the actual temperatures on the brake pads were.

Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) on the HP+ seems to be around 900-1000F from what I can gather. In comparison my Carbotech XP12s MOT are 1850F+. My old setup, Carbotech XP10s (MOT 1475F) + SS lines + ATE Type 200 on stock rotors started to have brake fade at the 20-minute mark of the session during a spring/summer session. The HP+ was never enough for even 15minutes of running hard for me before I started to feel brake fade.

In my experience with HP+, they can do a dual purpose pad but they fall short of being a great track pad and is a really squealy street pad. Of course what you, (BP) and I are going for requires a dedicated track pad and it might not be what Seth is aiming for.

I am very curious at the temperature readings now how hot those brake pads actually get.

[UdubBadger]

Thoughts on EBC red pads?

[az3579]

What about the daily driveability of those BP?

They're perfectly DD'able... if you wear ear plugs. Functionally they're fine.



did you run them on the 135i calipers or did you run them on the stock caliper?

I have sets for both caliper pairs and have run both on the track. What I said applies to both.



One thing I might think account for lower brake temperatures is that you have some tracks that have a lot of long straights that help with cooling those brakes. Laguna barely has a straight and Buttonwillow barely has one as well. Thunder hill is the closest thing to having a straight for us. I've tried them on an E46 M3 with stock calipers and a few s2000s and they constantly would overheat them at Laguna Seca, Buttonwillow mainly. I wish I had some temperature readings to see what the actual temperatures on the brake pads were.

I don't think Laguna Seca is any more demanding per se, in my opinion. The Glen does have a couple of straights but I do brake pretty frequently in between the straights. When I run there, I run it in June, which is usually pretty hot. The same goes for Calabogie. The only track I don't run in the summer is Lime Rock.

I think the thing working against you is that you frequently run in 100+ degree days. Most of the time when I'm on track, it's 80-90, which plays a pretty big part in this...


Thoughts on EBC red pads?

EBC Reds are fantastic pads... only for the street.
They are long wearing, so they'll last a long time, and they barely create any dust at all. I can go 2-3 weeks without cleaning my wheels and you'd still see silver on my wheels.

EBC Yellowstuff is the pad that is their track/street combo pad. My buddy has these on his E36 M3 and they feel AMAZING for pedal feel. I haven't driven his car on the track with them but he says they are very good. I don't think he pushes his car as hard as me though, so I can't really provide some real comparisons on them, and I've only ever driven his car on the street with those pads.

[UdubBadger]

Hmmm maybe thats what I'll look at then. Thanks for the info. ;)

[az3579]

Oh, keep in mind... the EBC Yellowstuff pads also squeal a bit.

[wsmeyer]

Lot's of great brake advice here but I'm afraid most people will miss it being located in this thread

[UdubBadger]

Oh, keep in mind... the EBC Yellowstuff pads also squeal a bit.

ugh i can't win. lol

2 sets it is!

[az3579]

ugh i can't win. lol

2 sets it is!

Sorry man... you probably could get away with one set while you're still starting out, but once you start getting a bit faster you'll need two sets of pads because overheated brake pads kill the entire experience.

I'd probably go with something like the Redstuff to start with, because that is a street pad that is probably OK for some "light" track use. Do the research and see what others are saying about using that on the track.

[UdubBadger]

will do thanks

[derbo]

I have sets for both caliper pairs and have run both on the track. What I said applies to both.



I don't think Laguna Seca is any more demanding per se, in my opinion. The Glen does have a couple of straights but I do brake pretty frequently in between the straights. When I run there, I run it in June, which is usually pretty hot. The same goes for Calabogie. The only track I don't run in the summer is Lime Rock.

I think the thing working against you is that you frequently run in 100+ degree days. Most of the time when I'm on track, it's 80-90, which plays a pretty big part in this...



Laguna never gets to 100+ let alone 90. Usually its about 70-80F on a hot day. What gets Laguna is the difference in elevation. The Corkscrew is about 6 stories up from the lower point in the track. Turn 2 is heavy on braking after about 115-120mph in our cars down to 40mph. But like you said, it's really hard to judge why the HP+ didn't work for me vs it worked wonders for you.

I'm just saying in my experience, the HP+ has left a pretty sour taste in my mouth.

Zeckhausen Racing:

Hawk HP PLUS high performance street pads have moderate dust, moderate rotor wear, very high initial bite and a Maximum Operating Temperature (MOT) slightly higher than Hawk HPS. They tend to be noisy, often squealing under light braking, although proper bedding can help. Ideal for autocross and may be used for track days on lower horsepower cars. Not recommended for heavy track use, as friction level falls off rapidly when MOT is exceeded.

Turner's Description:

Hawk's HP Plus pads fill the need for a "dual-purpose" pad - offering acceptable street performance that also holds up well on the racetrack. The beauty of these pads is that you can put them on at home or your shop and use them to drive to and from the track, with a full day of on-track driving in between. While these track pads actually do work on the street, noticeable increases in noise, dust, and brake wear are to be expected. These pads are great for the weekend track junkie who wants exceptional street performance while also having a capable pad on the track. They are excellent for novice and first-time drivers while also being a favorite of instructors too. And they are inexpensive compared to most full race pads.

These are not all-out racing pads, however, and they work best when used within their temperature range (100-800*F). Higher friction levels and brake temps will increase wear, especially on heavier cars. Brake cooling kits are strongly recommended. If you find these pads are not lasting, or you are exceeding their performance capability, it will be time to step into a full, dedicated track/racing pad.

[derbo]

I do wish we could do a track day together BP :)

[UdubBadger]

fuck it I'll just run stop tech pads and then get real track pads. I'm not gonna fuck around with faded braking at Road America.

[derbo]

fuck it I'll just run stop tech pads and then get real track pads. I'm not gonna fuck around with faded braking at Road America.

YES!

So Seth,

the MOT on the Stoptech Street pads is 1400F. That is incredible high for a street pad. I think you will be fine.

[UdubBadger]

oh i know. just want the bite i'm not getting with them right now even with drilled/slotted rotors.

[derbo]

oh i know. just want the bite i'm not getting with them right now even with drilled/slotted rotors.

Did you bed the brakes properly? Drilled rotors reduce surface area and does not provide any gain on braking performance. Slotted does as it cuts the pad to even out the pad surface. I always recommend Slotted rotors over drilled and highly shy away from drill/slotted for track rotors.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/How_to_select_brake_rotors.htm

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in


For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

[UdubBadger]

Right that's what I've seen as well. Yeah I bedded the brakes I'm just missing that nice hard stopping power like I had in my 135i with the Brembos and cool carbons.


GoingHAM mobile

[derbo]

Right that's what I've seen as well. Yeah I bedded the brakes I'm just missing that nice hard stopping power like I had in my 135i with the Brembos and cool carbons.


GoingHAM mobile

The one thing is, I've cooked my stoptech street pads very quickly on one of the mountain roads out here. A few other veteran track guys did the same for the street pads. I doubt I will like them on the track but I assume your track experience is closer to the beginner side?

[UdubBadger]

Yes, it is but I don't expect it to be that way very long. I do have some karting experience under my belt, not competitively but frequently and directed by people who know what they're doing including my dad (just realized that was almost 15 years ago, damn).

Again, the track days this year are likely going to put me in the lowest class because Ive never actually signed up for one but I'm assuming (maybe overconfidently) that I probably know a bit more about the principles of racing, than most guys with a $65k BMW and an afternoon to kill which is who I'll likely be at these events with.

Thats the only reason I'm looking for something more than just a street pad. I don't want the limiting factor in me progressing even in just an afternoon, to be my pads couldn't hold up to the track. HP+ sounds like it would be right in my wheel house but after looking, they're $400 a set. I could get an OE spec set or stoptechs to run on the street and a set of fully dedicated track pads for the days I spend on the track for about $500, so I guess maybe I need to just either be totally serious about what I am going to run and be ok with swapping pads at a track, or just deal with whatever drawbacks there are from running 1 pad full time that does both things marginally well.

[derbo]

Yes, it is but I don't expect it to be that way very long. I do have some karting experience under my belt, not competitively but frequently and directed by people who know what they're doing including my dad (just realized that was almost 15 years ago, damn).

Again, the track days this year are likely going to put me in the lowest class because Ive never actually signed up for one but I'm assuming (maybe overconfidently) that I probably know a bit more about the principles of racing, than most guys with a $65k BMW and an afternoon to kill which is who I'll likely be at these events with.

Thats the only reason I'm looking for something more than just a street pad. I don't want the limiting factor in me progressing even in just an afternoon, to be my pads couldn't hold up to the track. HP+ sounds like it would be right in my wheel house but after looking, they're $400 a set. I could get an OE spec set or stoptechs to run on the street and a set of fully dedicated track pads for the days I spend on the track for about $500, so I guess maybe I need to just either be totally serious about what I am going to run and be ok with swapping pads at a track, or just deal with whatever drawbacks there are from running 1 pad full time that does both things marginally well.


Gotcha.


Seth, why don't you stick to the stoptechs and bring tools along with a set of track pads in case you do cook the stoptechs? That way you are prepared to fix your afternoon.

PFC08s are nice for your M3. $342 for front axle, $262 for the rear axle. They are an endurance compound with a linear torque and MOT of 2000F. It's my next track pad for sure. It's not cheap but its one of those pads that will last very very long.

[UdubBadger]

Good info... Anthony from BimmerBrakes keeps telling me to do PFC's so I should probably listen - he tracks a lot as well.

I'll just hold off till I get close to the first day on the track and then grab something I can swap if needed.

[ClimRox]

I'm planning to replace the OFHG later this spring, and am looking for torque specs on the 6 bolts that hold the housing to the block. I can't find them in the Bentley manual. Should I look closer, or is there another place to find this info when not contained in the Bentley manual?

[ELCID86]

I'm planning to replace the OFHG later this spring, and am looking for torque specs on the 6 bolts that hold the housing to the block. I can't find them in the Bentley manual. Should I look closer, or is there another place to find this info when not contained in the Bentley manual?

I didn't see it either thought page 010-7 tell you how to calculate it based on the bolt (too much math for me). 22Nm according to this: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=647405

Post #7 might help: http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=785995

[Hornung418]

I'm planning to replace the OFHG later this spring, and am looking for torque specs on the 6 bolts that hold the housing to the block. I can't find them in the Bentley manual. Should I look closer, or is there another place to find this info when not contained in the Bentley manual?
I've always used a method where I tighten until tight and then swing the ratchet down two clicks and tighten to the angle previous.

[danewilson77]

I'm planning to replace the OFHG later this spring, and am looking for torque specs on the 6 bolts that hold the housing to the block. I can't find them in the Bentley manual. Should I look closer, or is there another place to find this info when not contained in the Bentley manual?

194 in*lbs (16 ft*lbs) = 22Nm.

Ref: Chilton

[UdubBadger]

he did that all in his head...

[Fenrir]

:thumbsup Great brake info in these posts.

[ClimRox]

^ Thanks all for the OFHG info!

[ELCID86]

^ Thanks all for the OFHG info!

Not a bad job once you get all of the stuff out of the way (alternator, etc.) Keep us posted.

[az3579]

Seth,
The absolutely best advice I can give right now to you, as a first timer on the track, is just run what you have. See where your actual skillset is. Some people don't cook their pads until a few events in. It's amazing how much you can actually push your car before you start to "need" things to improve the experience.

For now, just take the time to learn the most important things: the line, the flags, and the rules. It'll take you a while before you even master these things, so I wouldn't worry about your pads for now. :thumbsup

[UdubBadger]

Too late...


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[az3579]

Too late...


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If you mean for brakes, do keep one thing in mind: If you ordered dedicated track-only pads that aren't for use on the street, you have to get them up to temperature before they will work.

If you got something that's both street and track friendly, then just swap in and go! Might as well use 'em now that you already ordered... I assume this is what you meant by "too late".

[johnrando]

Yup. Doing the math is 16. Going to do my OFHG soon.

Sent from mobile

[stephenkirsh]

What kind of jack stands are you guys using? Any recommendations?

[ELCID86]

What kind of jack stands are you guys using? Any recommendations?

Harbor freight.


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[GE Geoff]

What kind of jack stands are you guys using? Any recommendations?

AC Delco O'reilly specials. LOL

[UdubBadger]

Yeah never felt the need for ultra expensive stands for any reason.
As long as they're reliable when locked up, that's all that's needed. I have 2 ACDelcos and 2 Craftsmans


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[johnrando]

Harbor Freight.

[san]

At what age/mileage to the Flex Disc Coupling and the Drive Shaft Center mount bearing usually need replacement??

[UdubBadger]

Crap shoot. Seen some at 80k be trashed, seen some at 120k that look good. Id start checking around inspection 2 unless you have symptoms before then.


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[LivesNearCostco]

Has anyone had poor gripping performance from the parking brake and improved it with new brake shoes? My ZHP parking brake doesn't seem to have much holding power compared to the E36, the minivan, or the old Saturn. Need to pull the handle up extra to prevent car from rolling on a slight incline. Wondering if new brake shoes would fix it, or replacing my rear rotors. Maybe some oil or brake fluid leaked onto the inside of the rear rotors?

What parking brake shoes does everyone recommend?

[Just_George]

Dumb question, but are the shoes adjusted properly? They're supposed to be "self adjusting", but I've found that rarely works. Made a big difference on my car when I adjusted the shoes, then the cables to the parking brake handle.

[johnrando]

Not sure about the shoes, but you can definitely adjust (lessen the travel therefore tightening) the parking brake. There is a DIY here somewhere.

[Just_George]

You can adjust the shoes manually - it's a bit of a pain, particularly if you haven't done it before. As I said, they're supposed to be 'self adjusting', but that almost never works, on any car. Consequently, as the shoes wear they have less bite (more accurately, they're thinner and further from the drum) A little adjustment on the shoes and the cables will make a dramatic difference!

[LivesNearCostco]

I don't know if the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly. Doesn't feel like the e-brake handle needs to be pulled up too far, just that I must pull up harder on it than needed in the minivan or E36 to get the same amount of rear braking force.

I had the rear rotors off once and just left the shoes and adjusting mechanisms in place without any changes. I can't adjust them through a wheel bolt hole because I have wheel studs, but I could take off the rear rotors and adjust the shoes outward, a bit, as long as that doesn't prevent me from sliding the rotors back on.

As for jackstands, I have 3 pairs: 2 Harbor Freight and one O'reilly/Kragen store version. One set goes into my AutoX/Travel tool box. These days I do most of the car work on a sloped driveway so only use one pay of jackstands at a time. Later when the garage gets more cleaned up, I can put the car up on 4 jackstands again on the flat garage floor.

[derbo]

I don't know if the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly. Doesn't feel like the e-brake handle needs to be pulled up too far, just that I must pull up harder on it than needed in the minivan or E36 to get the same amount of rear braking force.

I had the rear rotors off once and just left the shoes and adjusting mechanisms in place without any changes. I can't adjust them through a wheel bolt hole because I have wheel studs, but I could take off the rear rotors and adjust the shoes outward, a bit, as long as that doesn't prevent me from sliding the rotors back on.

As for jackstands, I have 3 pairs: 2 Harbor Freight and one O'reilly/Kragen store version. One set goes into my AutoX/Travel tool box. These days I do most of the car work on a sloped driveway so only use one pay of jackstands at a time. Later when the garage gets more cleaned up, I can put the car up on 4 jackstands again on the flat garage floor.

I would definitely make sure the parking brake is adjusted correctly. Also you should check if the shoes have glazed over or not. Lack of friction from a smooth surface will result in a poor hold. You can also use some sandpaper and try and remove the glossy layer to see if it will improve grip. Double check the rotor surface that the shoe touches. I would use sandpaper on all surfaces related to the handbrake operation.

[Pip]

I don't know if the parking brake shoes are adjusted properly. Doesn't feel like the e-brake handle needs to be pulled up too far, just that I must pull up harder on it than needed in the minivan or E36 to get the same amount of rear braking force.

I had the rear rotors off once and just left the shoes and adjusting mechanisms in place without any changes. I can't adjust them through a wheel bolt hole because I have wheel studs, but I could take off the rear rotors and adjust the shoes outward, a bit, as long as that doesn't prevent me from sliding the rotors back on.

As for jackstands, I have 3 pairs: 2 Harbor Freight and one O'reilly/Kragen store version. One set goes into my AutoX/Travel tool box. These days I do most of the car work on a sloped driveway so only use one pay of jackstands at a time. Later when the garage gets more cleaned up, I can put the car up on 4 jackstands again on the flat garage floor.

That would be scary working on a sloped driveway even with wheels blocked.

[UdubBadger]

I was gonna say Sean just dealt with his parking brake.


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[LivesNearCostco]

OK thanks Derek. I can definitely try sandpaper on both shoes and inner part of rear rotor hat. I do have new rotor hats in the garage that I bought 4 years ago and haven't needed yet--maybe time to put them on! I see new Genuine BMW brake shoes are $99 at AutoHausAZ while aftermarket shoes are $41 there or $40 from BavAuto. ECS Tuning has Meyele for $41 or Pagid for $54. Then there is the option to replace just the springs, springs & adjusters, cables, and cable guide tubes.


I would definitely make sure the parking brake is adjusted correctly. Also you should check if the shoes have glazed over or not. Lack of friction from a smooth surface will result in a poor hold. You can also use some sandpaper and try and remove the glossy layer to see if it will improve grip. Double check the rotor surface that the shoe touches. I would use sandpaper on all surfaces related to the handbrake operation.

[stephenkirsh]

How many miles do you guys get out of your PSSs:
For those who don't track:
For those who do track/autox:

[derbo]

How many miles do you guys get out of your PSSs:
For those who don't track:
For those who do track/autox:

Friend of mine with his 540i got about 16k or so and he tracks.

[Ssparrow]

About to change my diff and tranny fluid this weekend and just realized my new drain plugs don't come with crush washers, do we need em or is that what the green o rings on the plugs for? Doing a bit of research and I couldn't find a good answer. Thanks!


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[Crickett]

About to change my diff and tranny fluid this weekend and just realized my new drain plugs don't come with crush washers, do we need em or is that what the green o rings on the plugs for? Doing a bit of research and I couldn't find a good answer. Thanks!


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Yup, the plugs have built-in o rings, no washers needed!

[Ssparrow]

Good to know! Thanks again!


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[ELCID86]

Can someone confirm the parts needed to replace the drain and fill plugs on a manual tranny and on the diff?

2x tranny plugs 2311 753 1356 ?

2x Diff plugs 711 9963 355?



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[Ssparrow]

Can someone confirm the parts needed to replace the drain and fill plugs on a manual tranny and on the diff?

2x tranny plugs 2311 753 1356 ?

2x Diff plugs 711 9963 355?



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About to tackle this job myself. I bought new plugs but didn't think about crush washers. But I'm pretty sure they are not needed. This is what I bought

Diff plugs x2 33117525064
Tranny plugs x2 23117531356


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[ELCID86]

About to tackle this job myself. I bought new plugs but didn't think about crush washers. But I'm pretty sure they are not needed. This is what I bought

Diff plugs x2 33117525064
Tranny plugs x2 23117531356


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Thanks. The p/n for them is 07119963355, but I can't recall if they are needed or not now.

[UdubBadger]

I just had mine done by iND today too


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[derbo]

I just had mine done by iND today too


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iND must have some nice cars out there...

sent from my phone

[UdubBadger]

They were supercharging an 03 Imola E46 M3. Anthony said they got the cars confused and put mine on the lift until he caught it. :rofl

[ELCID86]

17679

This is my dad's ZSP. Looks the same as mine.

Otto tends to agree with you. see ~12:46. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGyCE9Gqm4o

[stephenkirsh]

They were supercharging an 03 Imola E46 M3. Anthony said they got the cars confused and put mine on the lift until he caught it. :rofl

Woulda been a fun surprise lol

[UdubBadger]

Woulda been a fun surprise lol

Meh...


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[derbo]

They were supercharging an 03 Imola E46 M3. Anthony said they got the cars confused and put mine on the lift until he caught it. :rofl

If only they did. LOL


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[Crickett]

About to tackle this job myself. I bought new plugs but didn't think about crush washers. But I'm pretty sure they are not needed. This is what I bought

Diff plugs x2 33117525064
Tranny plugs x2 23117531356


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. The p/n for them is 07119963355, but I can't recall if they are needed or not now.

I have used the P/Ns Ssparrow quoted, no separate o ring or crush washers needed.

[Ssparrow]

Good to know! When I did my diff fluid today, the plugs had crush washers but the plugs themselves didn't have any O-rings on them. So I ditched the crush washers and just used my new plugs


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[ELCID86]

Thanks guys.

[ClimRox]

Apologies for the noob question, but what is normally recommended for engine oil as between BMW 5W-30 oil and Mobil 1 0W-40? I was set on Mobil 1, but I learned BMW took this off of their recommended oil list. I realize this may simply be related to marketing, but thought I would ask the more seasoned ZHP folks. I didn't find a thread on this specific issue, but am still learning the site. Thanks!

[ELCID86]

I use Mobil1 0W-40 in both mine. Walmart.

[wsmeyer]

BMW recommend LL01 for our cars and Mobil 1 0W-40 is so not sure why it didn't make a list

Walmart is currently $26 / 5qt jug and there's a $12 mail in rebate

[ClimRox]

I use Mobil1 0W-40 in both mine. Walmart.


BMW recommend LL01 for our cars and Mobil 1 0W-40 is so not sure why it didn't make a list

Walmart is currently $26 / 5qt jug and there's a $12 mail in rebate

Thanks, and I think I'll probably stick with Mobil 1. It seems to have been a good choice in everything else I have owned. In reading the document again, the only oil they do list is the BMW oil. Seems kinda strange. Awesome deal with the rebate btw.

[ELCID86]

BMW recommend LL01 for our cars and Mobil 1 0W-40 is so not sure why it didn't make a list

Walmart is currently $26 / 5qt jug and there's a $12 mail in rebate

:dunno

18548


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[stephenkirsh]

How many miles do you guys get out of your PSSs:
For those who don't track:
For those who do track/autox:

Bump. for more answers.

[danewilson77]

I use Mobil1 0W-40 in both mine. Walmart.



BMW recommend LL01 for our cars and Mobil 1 0W-40 is so not sure why it didn't make a list

Walmart is currently $26 / 5qt jug and there's a $12 mail in rebate

This

"No flamesuit required"

[ClimRox]

This

"No flamesuit required"

Thanks again fellas. Just to share where I got this info/question from, I googled "bmw usa recommended oil" and in the first few results you would see two pdfs from bmw (January 2008 + August 2013), and a few oil threads discussing the change.

I was probably way over thinking this issue, so I'll look forward to ZHP goodies in the mail this week to keep me busy next weekend. :fingerscrossed

[derbo]

Thanks again fellas. Just to share where I got this info/question from, I googled "bmw usa recommended oil" and in the first few results you would see two pdfs from bmw (January 2008 + August 2013), and a few oil threads discussing the change.

I was probably way over thinking this issue, so I'll look forward to ZHP goodies in the mail this week to keep me busy next weekend. :fingerscrossed

And if you change your oil more often than BMW recommend 10k-15k intervals I wouldn't worry too much.


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[ELCID86]

Ok, so Daniel and I were able to to further isolate the knocking sound in my trunk area. It appears to be coming from the area of the right rear shock. Best guess =shock? or some other sub-component?

https://youtu.be/cfL2ZlI-9n0

Daniel at the wheel and me in the back :-) https://youtu.be/i2DgIs_3KZI

Pics of other parts when I had the wheels of the other day:
18565

18566

18567

18568

18569

18570

[johnrando]

Bump. for more answers.

Sorry, still on my first run with under 5K on mine.

[san]

Ok, so Daniel and I were able to to further isolate the knocking sound in my trunk area. It appears to be coming from the area of the right rear shock. Best guess =shock? or some other sub-component?

https://youtu.be/cfL2ZlI-9n0

Daniel at the wheel and me in the back :-) https://youtu.be/i2DgIs_3KZI

Pics of other parts when I had the wheels of the other day:
18565

18566

18567

18568

18569

18570

Could it be rear sway bar?

[san]

Is it hard for you guys to change gears in your manual ZHP's for the first few miles every morning, especially when it is cold? I mean does the gear box feel notchy and hard? Thanks!

[theothersawyer]

It happens to me but normally only the initial attempt to put it into 1st, after that its fine.

[az3579]

Is it hard for you guys to change gears in your manual ZHP's for the first few miles every morning, especially when it is cold? I mean does the gear box feel notchy and hard? Thanks!

The gearbox and fluid are cold. This is normal. It shouldn't be excessively hard, just hard'er'.

If it's excessively hard, it's time to change your transmission fluid.


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[ELCID86]

Is it hard for you guys to change gears in your manual ZHP's for the first few miles every morning, especially when it is cold? I mean does the gear box feel notchy and hard? Thanks!

A bit yes. And what Botond said.


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[ELCID86]

Could it be rear sway bar?

Perhaps. Not sure. I guess I can visually inspect it when I get home.


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[stephenkirsh]

Sorry, still on my first run with under 5K on mine.

No worries

[Hermes]

Is it hard for you guys to change gears in your manual ZHP's for the first few miles every morning, especially when it is cold? I mean does the gear box feel notchy and hard? Thanks!

Shift into to second, then immediately into first, release clutch pedal and drive off. Drive like normal at low rpm (appx 1/3 redline) until the fluid warms up. Everything should be fine once the gearbox is at temperature

[stephenkirsh]

My auto has always been a bit clunky for the first mile or two. I think they all just need to warm up. The fluid can be pretty thick when it's cold.

[sillieidiot]

Ok, so Daniel and I were able to to further isolate the knocking sound in my trunk area. It appears to be coming from the area of the right rear shock. Best guess =shock? or some other sub-component?

https://youtu.be/cfL2ZlI-9n0

Daniel at the wheel and me in the back :-) https://youtu.be/i2DgIs_3KZI

Pics of other parts when I had the wheels of the other day:
18565

18566

18567

18568

18569

18570

sounds like the RSM to me

[Vas]

Ok, so Daniel and I were able to to further isolate the knocking sound in my trunk area. It appears to be coming from the area of the right rear shock. Best guess =shock? or some other sub-component?

https://youtu.be/cfL2ZlI-9n0

Daniel at the wheel and me in the back :-) https://youtu.be/i2DgIs_3KZI

Pics of other parts when I had the wheels of the other day:
18565

18566

18567

18568

18569

18570

Your booty rattle sounds like a bad rear shock mount.

[ELCID86]

Thanks guys. I don't know much about the rear suspension. Is the RSM replaceable by itself? Where is it in the pics? Top of shock?


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[Vas]

Shawn look here

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/S_BUSH/RSM.html

[san]

Thanks for your inputs guys... As you guys said it does get better after driving for a while, but also most of the times when I am stationary and try to slot it into first gear, there is some amount of resistance and as I try to push the gear lever against the resistance into 1 st gear position, the car moves forward slightly, as if the clutch is not full dis-engaged eventhough I press the clutch pedal to its maximum position... I am guessing my clutch is beginning to fail?

[az3579]

Thanks for your inputs guys... As you guys said it does get better after driving for a while, but also most of the times when I am stationary and try to slot it into first gear, there is some amount of resistance and as I try to push the gear lever against the resistance into 1 st gear position, the car moves forward slightly, as if the clutch is not full dis-engaged eventhough I press the clutch pedal to its maximum position... I am guessing my clutch is beginning to fail?

Does it almost feel like it's grinding when you put it into first? If so, you've got something wrong here...
That would mean the clutch is not being fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed, which could most definitely cause hard shifting. It would do this in every gear though if that was the case, and it would more than likely feel and/or sound like grinding if the car is moving.

[san]

Does it almost feel like it's grinding when you put it into first? If so, you've got something wrong here...
That would mean the clutch is not being fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed, which could most definitely cause hard shifting. It would do this in every gear though if that was the case, and it would more than likely feel and/or sound like grinding if the car is moving.

I don't hear any grinding but sometimes it does feel like it when shifting into first... Also shifting between 1st and 2nd is not smooth... Even I think the clutch is not fully being disengaged...

[az3579]

I don't hear any grinding but sometimes it does feel like it when shifting into first... Also shifting between 1st and 2nd is not smooth... Even I think the clutch is not fully being disengaged...

If that's the case, this is something that should be taking place regardless of whether the transmission/oil are hot or cold. Clutch disengagement is entirely dependent on user action, not on oil temperature.

I'd definitely get that looked at ASAP; you don't want to be wearing out your gears prematurely.
When did this start? Did anything change that caused this to start happening?

[san]

If that's the case, this is something that should be taking place regardless of whether the transmission/oil are hot or cold. Clutch disengagement is entirely dependent on user action, not on oil temperature.

I'd definitely get that looked at ASAP; you don't want to be wearing out your gears prematurely.
When did this start? Did anything change that caused this to start happening?

I bought the car in September 2014... Had been there since I bought it, but I did not notice it during PPI... I changed the tranny oil recently with 2 quarts of Red Line MTL and that made it a little better...

[Karl Lazlo]

Thanks for your inputs guys... As you guys said it does get better after driving for a while, but also most of the times when I am stationary and try to slot it into first gear, there is some amount of resistance and as I try to push the gear lever against the resistance into 1 st gear position, the car moves forward slightly, as if the clutch is not full dis-engaged eventhough I press the clutch pedal to its maximum position... I am guessing my clutch is beginning to fail?

Does the clutch slip under load? if not, sounds like your clutch master and/or slave cylinders are on their way out...