The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[johnrando]

Nice

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[stephenkirsh]

16397

Looks like I'm rubbing on the rear.

245/45/17 on 17x8.5" arc-8s.

Any suggestions what to do?

I know OEM size is 245/40/17. Tire rack says that makes it a whole inch taller.

[stephenkirsh]

16398

Looks like it's the corner of the inside wheel well protector thingy.

[Johal E32]

Smaller tires. That profile seems to be too tall.

Or remove the rear bumper screw, that should eliminate some rubbing.

[az3579]

Your springs being softer doesn't help as well. I also believe the offsets on those wheels aren't exactly E46 fitment.

On my BBS wheels, the fact that they were et35 offset and that my car is lowered means I had to trim some of that plastic you talk about. Most of it rubbed off by the time I got around to having it modified, but it did the trim.


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[stephenkirsh]

They're et40. Is that correct for e46?

They do seem to stand a bit wider than the style 135s.

My next tires will be the right size. Was hoping for an interim solution.

Rear bumper screw isn't touching. Looks like it's the outer edge/corner of the plastic wheel well liner.

[pilotnick1203]

Quick Question
Will a 2007 3 series 6 spd fit on my car? I had heard the e90 shares the same trans.

[Hornung418]

They're et40. Is that correct for e46?

They do seem to stand a bit wider than the style 135s.

My next tires will be the right size. Was hoping for an interim solution.

Rear bumper screw isn't touching. Looks like it's the outer edge/corner of the plastic wheel well liner.
Et40 is good 35 is best.

Take a Dremel tool to the bumper bolt and you will remove the rubbing. Mine only rubbed under hard cornering when the tires flexed to the outside corner.

Porsches rule! BMWs drool!

[derbo]

Your springs being softer doesn't help as well. I also believe the offsets on those wheels aren't exactly E46 fitment.

On my BBS wheels, the fact that they were et35 offset and that my car is lowered means I had to trim some of that plastic you talk about. Most of it rubbed off by the time I got around to having it modified, but it did the trim.


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I have 17x8.5 +40 (same as Steve) on 245/40/17. The offset is actually very mild for a e46.


Et40 is good 35 is best.

Take a Dremel tool to the bumper bolt and you will remove the rubbing. Mine only rubbed under hard cornering when the tires flexed to the outside corner.

Porsches rule! BMWs drool!

Et recommendations depends on the width of the rim. 35 is actually more aggressive and he would rub even more if he is already rubbing with +40.


The tire size is off and that extra inch is a lot. I would definitely trim the rear bumper bolt and the bumper lining. That will minimize some of the rubbing but I would get the right size next time or 255/40/17.

[stephenkirsh]

I only went with this size cuz it came with the wheels when I bought them used.

Ahem... Uh... What's a Dremel took?

[ELCID86]

Bumping for PilotNick


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[Hornung418]

I only went with this size cuz it came with the wheels when I bought them used.

Ahem... Uh... What's a Dremel took?
A brand name rotary tool. Comes with a variety of accessories to sand, cut, polish anf clean stuff. Give it a Google.

Porsches rule! BMWs drool!

[az3579]

They're et40. Is that correct for e46?

They do seem to stand a bit wider than the style 135s.

40 isn't all that bad, actually. Not sure why you're rubbing on stock suspension. I didn't rub with et40 on a lowered suspension.


Et40 is good 35 is best.



I have 17x8.5 +40 (same as Steve) on 245/40/17. The offset is actually very mild for a e46.

Sorry guys, I can't say I agree. Anything that requires modification to make it not rub is an aggressive offset. 40 is actually on the lower end of what you can run without requiring modification.

In this case I feel it's the higher tire profile that's causing the rub, not necessarily the offset. Any lower though and the offset would become a problem.

[NickZHP]

Do aftermarket strut braces like Dinan perform better than using the OEM e46 M3 strut brace or does it just come down to looks? Thinking about buying a used Dinan strut brace but I am wondering if spending less for a bar from an m3 would be just as good?

[danewilson77]

Dinan is most likely just as good as ///M3 brace regarding rigidity. I'd go ///M3.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

Same

[stephenkirsh]

Suspension question: I think Koni yellows are adjustable, but only on rebound, not compression.

Why would you want to stiffen rebound? Wouldn't compression be more advantage?

[OtterEffect]

Suspension question: I think Koni yellows are adjustable, but only on rebound, not compression.

Why would you want to stiffen rebound? Wouldn't compression be more advantage?

Since rebound affects the speed at which the shock returns to its uncompressed position, being able to adjust it could come in handy if you live in an area with rough roads, or if you auto cross and and want the cars weight to transfer quickly and predictably. However I think in the case of Koni Yellows, some of it comes down to cost. At least in the mountain bike world, rebound chambers are a lot less complicated than compression dampers and thus a shock with only rebound offers some adjustability and at a lot less of the price.

Just my guess, I may be totally wrong here :p

[OtterEffect]

So my windshield cowling is pretty bad and I am going to order a replacement.

Will this suffice? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES129793/)

Or should I get the one with the left and right lining pieces (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES2083242/)?

[Newjack]

So my windshield cowling is pretty bad and I am going to order a replacement.

Will this suffice? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES129793/)

Or should I get the one with the left and right lining pieces (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES2083242/)?


I think just getting the cowl is fine. Although since I've never removed mine I don't know exactly what those other lining pieces are for.


MFW $24.27 shipping costs for the cowl from ECS.

http://media.giphy.com/media/A8mOE2k9WV0yc/giphy.gif

[az3579]

Try the local dealer, maybe theirs would be less with shipping.

[ELCID86]

Try the local dealer, maybe theirs would be less with shipping.

http://www.bmwoffairfax.com/ has $9 flat rate shipping on most items and ~20% off online pricing.

[danewilson77]

So my windshield cowling is pretty bad and I am going to order a replacement.

Will this suffice? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES129793/)

Or should I get the one with the left and right lining pieces (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES2083242/)?

First one is fine.

[3ZHP]

So my windshield cowling is pretty bad and I am going to order a replacement.

Will this suffice? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES129793/)

Or should I get the one with the left and right lining pieces (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Exterior/Body/Windshield/ES2083242/)?
I priced an OE for mine a few months ago and the price wasn't bad. I would definitely check the dealer price before making a purchase. And, don't forget about a new windshield gasket.

[johnrando]

Just the cowl is fine.

[OtterEffect]

Thanks everyone!


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[NickZHP]

Have a question about doing a M3 rear swap for its 3.64 LSD. Is this everything I need to complete the swap; Subframe, LSD, Axles, Upper control arms, Trailing arms, calipers, ebrakes, rotors, Lower arms, and the driveshaft?

[wertyu78]

Have a question about doing a M3 rear swap for its 3.64 LSD. Is this everything I need to complete the swap; Subframe, LSD, Axles, Upper control arms, Trailing arms, calipers, ebrakes, rotors, Lower arms, and the driveshaft?



You could also go with a Diffsonline solution. Swap the carrier only and have a true clutch style LSD. Whatever you do, stay away from OS GIKEN!

[NickZHP]

You could also go with a Diffsonline solution. Swap the carrier only and have a true clutch style LSD. Whatever you do, stay away from OS GIKEN!

Swapping for the M3 LSD would be the cheaper route though, what makes the diffsonline LSD better (other than not having to swap the whole rear)?

[wertyu78]

Swapping for the M3 LSD would be the cheaper route though, what makes the diffsonline LSD better (other than not having to swap the whole rear)?

You're correct. You could also take care of all of the subframe bushings, RTAB's, & diff bushings while doing the M3 subframe swap.

The benefit with a diffsonline diff: choose your gear ratio, all new bearings, clutches, seals, and it's pretty.


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[NoVAphotog]

You're correct. You could also take care of all of the subframe bushings, RTAB's, & diff bushings while doing the M3 subframe swap.

The benefit with a diffsonline diff: choose your gear ratio, all new bearings, clutches, seals, and it's pretty.


More info here in my LSD thread:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?13858-LSD-types-and-brands-(picking-the-right-one)

[wertyu78]

More info here in my LSD thread:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?13858-LSD-types-and-brands-(picking-the-right-one)

Great info on this thread , OP! This is why I love this forum so much.


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[derbo]

Have a question about doing a M3 rear swap for its 3.64 LSD. Is this everything I need to complete the swap; Subframe, LSD, Axles, Upper control arms, Trailing arms, calipers, ebrakes, rotors, Lower arms, and the driveshaft?

Here is the list of parts:


Subframe
LSD Differential
Driveshaft
Halfshafts
M3 Trailing Arms
M3 Rotors
M3 Calipers
M3 Rear Sway bar
Correct ABS speed sensors for your car


The control arms and camber arm are identical on the non-M but it is usually just easier to find a full subframe with everything attached.

ABS sensors:
You have an 2004 so you will need the ABS sensors with a blue plug from any other E46 except the 330i Manual. Hopefully your M3 swap will come with them.

Ebrake cables are identical from the non-M so you can just undo them from your existing arm and attach them to the M3 ebrakes.

When I did my swap, I replaced RTABS, Subframe/Diff bushings, Rotors, Drum Shoes, Brake pads and various misc bolts n pieces. I ended up at $2500 or so for the swap but it was almost a complete refresh of the rear end. I'm missing control arm bushings and diff rebuild.


IMO, if you just want a great LSD for track purposes, the aftermarket diffsonline or performancegearing is the way to go. I personally wanted the M3 rear end since I figure in the future I will do an S54 swap. With that in mind, I decided to make it M3 for simplicity.

[stephenkirsh]

Turns out my ARC-8s I bought used are bent. Bought them from a guy in bimmerforums.

If anybody has any experience getting money back through PayPal, please PM me for tips.

[ELCID86]

Turns out my ARC-8s I bought used are bent. Bought them from a guy in bimmerforums.

If anybody has any experience getting money back through PayPal, please PM me for tips.

Sucks,. I think BP had a similar issue. Did you send as a gift?

[danewilson77]

How much to straighten? Not really the point, but just curious.

"No flamesuit required"

[stephenkirsh]

How much to straighten? Not really the point, but just curious.

"No flamesuit required"

Wheel guy said they're not fixable.

Since I plan on tracking, I'd feel safer knowing the wheels were perfect. So even if I can find somewhere to straighten them, I'll end up selling them.

[stephenkirsh]

Sucks,. I think BP had a similar issue. Did you send as a gift?

No it was processed as a "payment for goods."

[NoVAphotog]

Anyone have an easier solution/DIY to the "cricket noise" from the Blower fan? Mine has been doing it more and more as it gets colder and colder and I'm running the heater more...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=418987&highlight=Blower+Motor

[UdubBadger]

My brakes are all the sudden squeeking a touch when I come to a slow stop at lights and such.

Pads? Rotors? What are we talking about. Too lazy to google.

Dane come fix it for me

[UdubBadger]

Anyone have an easier solution/DIY to the "cricket noise" from the Blower fan? Mine has been doing it more and more as it gets colder and colder and I'm running the heater more...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=418987&highlight=Blower+Motor

I hear sometimes blasting compressed air in there will help. Essentially the issue is dust/dirt buildup around the fan bearing.

[Avetiso]

My brakes are all the sudden squeeking a touch when I come to a slow stop at lights and such.

Pads? Rotors? What are we talking about. Too lazy to google.

Dane come fix it for me

Sometimes they just squeal. Might need to grease the pads. Or they could be ending their life and the squeal is coming. You need to take a gander.

[NoVAphotog]

I hear sometimes blasting compressed air in there will help. Essentially the issue is dust/dirt buildup around the fan bearing.

Thanks Seth, and blasting it up through the center vents or removing the cabin filter and shoving the nozzle down in there deep and blowing?

[UdubBadger]

Sometimes they just squeal. Might need to grease the pads. Or they could be ending their life and the squeal is coming. You need to take a gander.

New as of Nov 2013 I have to think I got more than 12k out of them.


I'll grease up the backs and see what happens. Only heard when it got cold recently.

[UdubBadger]

Thanks Seth, and blasting it up through the center vents or removing the cabin filter and shoving the nozzle down in there deep and blowing?

Both not a bad idea. Also the little vent in the control housing. Then blast the fan at 100% to get it all out of the system.

[danewilson77]

Yep. Brake lube is a must.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/14/90d3911b5f77864919fb9616f3fbb886.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

[theothersawyer]

Both not a bad idea. Also the little vent in the control housing. Then blast the fan at 100% to get it all out of the system.

Mine has been doing this and it's annoying! I just turn up the volume on the radio! Haha

[UdubBadger]

Yep. Brake lube is a must.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/14/90d3911b5f77864919fb9616f3fbb886.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

Yeah I should do my pins for sure since I have the brass bushings upgrade too.

Anyone have a lube of choice for the backs of pads?

[UdubBadger]

Mine has been doing this and it's annoying! I just turn up the volume on the radio! Haha

Also a very effective solution.

BSW kit FTW.

[johnrando]

Ok to take off the pads when they've already been on for lots of miles, grease the backs, then put them back on? I'm getting squeaks at low braking speeds. Do you have to re-bed them?

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[danewilson77]

Ok to take off the pads when they've already been on for lots of miles, grease the backs, then put them back on? I'm getting squeaks at low braking speeds. Do you have to re-bed them?

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Yes.

No rebed.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

JR not sure bout you but I'm picking this up tomorrow AM.

Permatex[emoji768] CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant
16484

[johnrando]

Thanks Seth. I've got some of the red anti-squeal grease from when I did the brakes the 1st time.

[danewilson77]

JR not sure bout you but I'm picking this up tomorrow AM.

Permatex[emoji768] CeramicExtreme Brake PartsLubricant
16484
That is exactly what I used on the Mini. Green goo.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

This is the supercalifragalisticpurple goo rated to -65 deg which I am sure we will see here in about 2-3 weeks.

[danewilson77]

This is the supercalifragalisticpurple goo rated to -65 deg which I am sure we will see here in about 2-3 weeks.
:rofl

"No flamesuit required"

[derbo]

I usee Neverseez.

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/purenickel.htm

[stephenkirsh]

My dad's 04 M54B30 ZSP with 60k miles had an SES light with a P2237 code, O2 sensors. Looked into it. Seems like 50% of cases are fixed from a software update.

He went to a mechanic that said he could do it. Mechanic started it and got the warning that if they continue the update could damage the DME controller. So he stopped. I guess he hasn't seen that before? Software was AutoLogic.

Is that a generic warning, like Shark Injector could corrupt the DME if done wrong as an example.

Any ideas?

[UdubBadger]

Hmmmm, it could be or it could actually be a bad O2 sensor. I've not personally heard of software throwing a code like that but I suppose it's possible. I mean I used to throw vacuum codes on my E90 when I had a cold air intake and muffler delete. :dunno

[stephenkirsh]

Was more looking for insight on the software update itself. My dad's car was built in 2003, I don't think it's had any updates since then, so it's possible there's newer stuff out there.

Question is, why would an update corrupt the DME?

[UdubBadger]

If it was interrupted it might not have written properly

[az3579]

If it was interrupted it might not have written properly

Or if the battery runs low, but I guess that would count as "interruption".

[stephenkirsh]

So you guys think it's just a generic warning they do at the start?

[stephenkirsh]

He just got a call back from his mechanic.

"They can't do the SOftware update. He talked to the company they get it from. They recommend taking the dme out of the car. So there is less "noise" doing the update like that. But, there is still a chance the dme could be ruined. "

Sounds strange. It's like they offer a product but have no idea what will happen if somebody uses it.

[UdubBadger]

Or if the battery runs low, but I guess that would count as "interruption".

That would be considered an error/interruption.

When we do tuning we make sure people hook up to a battery tender just in case.

[az3579]

So you guys think it's just a generic warning they do at the start?

I do believe the warning is generic, but personally I would never do a DME update with a non-BMW specific tool. That's just me. :dunno

[stephenkirsh]

Makes sense. He called the dealership. They want $275 "or more" because it could take "over 90 minutes" to do the update.

[az3579]

Makes sense. He called the dealership. They want $275 "or more" because it could take "over 90 minutes" to do the update.

Very likely.
This is why I have my own computer for things like this. Hate dealer rates. :facepalm

[stephenkirsh]

Could it really take 90+ min for that?

[OtterEffect]

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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[Avetiso]

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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Could be:

Wheel speed sensor needs cleaning/replacement. (wouldn't surprise me coming from OH).
Alignment is out of wack (probably not it).
Something wrong with the DSC system in general.

Weird. This has happened a few times across the boards recently. I wonder if cold weather has anything to do with it... doubt it.

[theothersawyer]

Mine does it on occasion as well!

[stephenkirsh]

Could be:

Wheel speed sensor needs cleaning/replacement. (wouldn't surprise me coming from OH).
Alignment is out of wack (probably not it).
Something wrong with the DSC system in general.

Weird. This has happened a few times across the boards recently. I wonder if cold weather has anything to do with it... doubt it.

It's not cold here. Low has been about 45 at most so far.

[OtterEffect]

No fault codes. Upon restart the lights were out and she was fine the whole drive home. Just a hiccup maybe? Is that [a hiccup] even possible?

[Avetiso]

No fault codes. Upon restart the lights were out and she was fine the whole drive home. Just a hiccup maybe? Is that [a hiccup] even possible?

It's happened before. Many times.

[NickZHP]

So today I was driving along when Tessa beeped at me and then turned on her "DSC" and "Brake" dash lights. I've never heard of this happening, any ideas? (The brake light was yellow not red).


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This happened to me for a month and then it turned off and doesn't happen anymore. Once in a while the lights will come on again but its rare.

[stephenkirsh]

Truly random: how hard is it to add, say 5 PSI to a car tire with a bicycle pump? I see people using them at autocross sometimes.

[OtterEffect]

Truly random: how hard is it to add, say 5 PSI to a car tire with a bicycle pump? I see people using them at autocross sometimes.

I've pumped tires with a bike pump before. Wasn't bad at all. Kinda funny considering that car tires run around 40 psi where as road bike tires go over 100 psi.


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[stephenkirsh]

100?! Whoa. Why so much! I keep mine at 50ish lol. But it's not a true "road bike."

[OtterEffect]

The harder the tire, the less rolling resistance I guess..


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[fredo]

Do you know if some websites offer Black Friday specials in auto parts ? I need some for my e90 and Mini.

[stephenkirsh]

I think most usually do. Like ECST and bavAuto for example.

[stephenkirsh]

Going to be doing DrVanos soon.

Is there anything else that should be done in that area? Any sensors or anything?

I'm at 125k and driving 20k a year now.

[Vas]

I did Dr.vanos, vanos oil feed line, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. Plus oil change.

[stephenkirsh]

Plugs were done 10k ago. VCG is on the list. Vanos feed line was done with my CCV.

Woot!

[ELCID86]

Going to be doing DrVanos soon.

Is there anything else that should be done in that area? Any sensors or anything?

I'm at 125k and driving 20k a year now.

Anyone ever inspect and clean the cam sensor?
Too early for pre-cat O2 sensors?
Done plugs? Clean MAF and DISA.



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[stephenkirsh]

I would say cam sensor is a no.

Are pre cat O2 sensors hiding behind the valve cover?

Yes on plugs.

DISA is less than a year old.

[ELCID86]

I would say cam sensor is a no.

Are pre cat O2 sensors hiding behind the valve cover?

Yes on plugs.

DISA is less than a year old.

O2 sensors wires are snaked around the engine and you'll be moving the wires out of the way and you can't really get to them with the engine covers on. It is probably premature to do them though.


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[stephenkirsh]

Ok. I think they're on my 150k to do list.

[az3579]

O2 sensors wires are snaked around the engine and you'll be moving the wires out of the way and you can't really get to them with the engine covers on. It is probably premature to do them though.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

O2 sensors are technically a 100k item. Even if they don't throw codes, you could still get a fuel economy bump by replacing them.


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[ELCID86]

O2 sensors are technically a 100k item. Even if they don't throw codes, you could still get a fuel economy bump by replacing them.


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Good to know. I have them on hand and plan to do soon.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[az3579]

Good to know. I have them on hand and plan to do soon.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Just as a side note, my BMW Master Tech friend recommended I only replace the pre-cat sensors because if I replace the post-cat ones it could potentially throw codes that the cats are bad


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[alexandre]

Just as a side note, my BMW Master Tech friend recommended I only replace the pre-cat sensors because if I replace the post-cat ones it could potentially throw codes that the cats are bad


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Which would be a good thing... not for our wallets though. :rofl

Mine are definitely on the verge of replacement.

[az3579]

Which would be a good thing... not for our wallets though. :rofl

Mine are definitely on the verge of replacement.

Replacing only 2 instead of 4 is not good for our wallets? Am I missing something? :)

[cakM3]

2......4...... it doesn't matter. Those O2 sendors are pricy

[cakM3]

2......4...... it doesn't matter. Those O2 sendors are pricy

Last year I swapped out all 4 at once....

[alexandre]

Replacing only 2 instead of 4 is not good for our wallets? Am I missing something? :)

Needing to replace the cats to pass inspection is ;)

[stephenkirsh]

What part of the VANOS makes the rattle?

[kayger12]

What part of the VANOS makes the rattle?
Bearing spacers

[fredo]

For $250, this seems to be a good deal. Does anybody know the wheel size (16", 17", 18") ?
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4816376201.html

[UdubBadger]

Those are 18x8 and 8.5 rears
It's an E92 wheel


http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/bmw/197

[fredo]

Thanks, I appreciate the info.

[alexandre]

So I'm 100 miles away from home and my belts just grenaded. Car is parked. Very surprising given the fact that everything was replaced a little under 2 years ago.

What happens when a water pump or power steering pump goes bad ? Do they completely seize ? I noticed a pulley hissing noise that amplified before the failure. I wonder if it's because a component has gone bad or if it was simply from the bad belts.

[Avetiso]

So I'm 100 miles away from home and my belts just grenaded. Car is parked. Very surprising given the fact that everything was replaced a little under 2 years ago.

What happens when a water pump or power steering pump goes bad ? Do they completely seize ? I noticed a pulley hissing noise that amplified before the failure. I wonder if it's because a component has gone bad or if it was simply from the bad belts.

Doubt it would seize. I'm betting very bad pulley or bad belt that was defective?

[terraphantm]

Have you ever changed the idler or tensioner pulleys? Those can spin in excess of 10k RPMs and can seize up

[alexandre]

Doubt it would seize. I'm betting very bad pulley or bad belt that was defective?

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?524-BMW-E46-Water-Pump-Failure-Diagnosis-and-Replacement-doityourself

I have a feeling the catastrophic option is what happened. My WP has 65k on it (was planning to replace in the spring)


Have you ever changed the idler or tensioner pulleys? Those can spin in excess of 10k RPMs and can seize up

Everything in the belt drive was new (< 2 years old) except the crankshaft, alternator and PS pulleys. WP has 65k but has a new pulley on it.

Final plan of action is to have the car towed to my place and assess the damage down the line. Registered for a CAA (same as AAA) competitor that offers 5x 150 mi tows per year on top of the usual roadside assist benefits for ~$80 USD.

[smacame]

Is there a good resource for learning about fast-blinking turn signals (hyperflash?) caused by LED retrofits? I'm specifically interested in adding resistors in parallel with the LEDs somewhere. I've read bits and pieces from other uses here that hint at a way most people do the fix.

[Hornung418]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?524-BMW-E46-Water-Pump-Failure-Diagnosis-and-Replacement-doityourself

I have a feeling the catastrophic option is what happened. My WP has 65k on it (was planning to replace in the spring)



Everything in the belt drive was new (< 2 years old) except the crankshaft, alternator and PS pulleys. WP has 65k but has a new pulley on it.

Final plan of action is to have the car towed to my place and assess the damage down the line. Registered for a CAA (same as AAA) competitor that offers 5x 150 mi tows per year on top of the usual roadside assist benefits for ~$80 USD.

If your temperature gauge didn't indicate any WP failure, then your Idler or Tensioner pulley seized and burned the belt. Saw first hand how a seized AC compressor will destroy a belt (98 Dodge 1500). And that's how we found out that the compressor had failed after putting the new one on and turning it over. Hell of a noise and sparks.

Hope you get it squared away. Give all your components an inspection and see where your sticky wicket is.

[alexandre]

If your temperature gauge didn't indicate any WP failure, then your Idler or Tensioner pulley seized and burned the belt. Saw first hand how a seized AC compressor will destroy a belt (98 Dodge 1500). And that's how we found out that the compressor had failed after putting the new one on and turning it over. Hell of a noise and sparks.

Hope you get it squared away. Give all your components an inspection and see where your sticky wicket is.

No red zone, but it was 5 degrees F so it probably didn't get the time to go there. My temp gauge is recalibrated (red starts at 105-110C instead of 125.

Just went to the car and removed the trashed belt to at least move the car to a safe location (it was cold and I drove 2 mins tops). Everything seemed fine, including the water pump - no coolant residue anywhere and it seemed to turn straight by hand. Other pulleys were turning fine with the expected resistance. PS pulley seemed a bit loose - could that be the culprit? I don't recall losing PS though.

I'm seriously startled by this.

[ELCID86]

I'm glad you and the car are ok Alex.

Anyone know what this is?

17258


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[derbo]

I'm glad you and the car are ok Alex.

Anyone know what this is?

17258


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

The black piece? That is the piece they used to separate the ground wire from the harness and ground it properly. This was their fix for the taillight recall.

Here is the service bulletin.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ucm367046/rcsb-11v438-4559.pdf


If it isn't what you are asking, then forget I said anything. :)

[stephenkirsh]

1.) How do you remove the hood emblem?
2.) are the grommets in there generally ok to reuse?

[Vas]

Use something soft and gentle to pry under it. And if you got an emblem kit it comes with new grommets. Otherwise I would get new ones.

[stephenkirsh]

Ok.

My dad had an extra emblem lying around, no grommets though. Thx

[fredo]

I've replaced the hood emblem on two different cars. The dealer recommended to use a plastic box strap (like this one) and it works nicely.

Just slide it under the hood emblem, one side at a time while pulling up. For the grommets, I reused the old ones without issues. GL.

17266

[ELCID86]

The black piece? That is the piece they used to separate the ground wire from the harness and ground it properly. This was their fix for the taillight recall.

Here is the service bulletin.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ucm367046/rcsb-11v438-4559.pdf


If it isn't what you are asking, then forget I said anything. :)

Yes, thanks, sorry I should have been more descriptive (or pointed)! So these appear to have had the recall done (I bought the RYR rears separate). Thanks.

[ELCID86]

I've replaced the hood emblem on two different cars. The dealer recommended to use a plastic box strap (like this one) and it works nicely.

Just slide it under the hood emblem, one side at a time while pulling up. For the grommets, I reused the old ones without issues. GL.

17266
I thought you'd gotten a new chair!

[danewilson77]

1.) How do you remove the hood emblem?
2.) are the grommets in there generally ok to reuse?
Easiest way I've found

1.) How do you remove the hood emblem?
2.) are the grommets in there generally ok to reuse?
Easiest way I've found is to use fishing line or the plastic strapping sometimes used when I receive shipped items.

"No flamesuit required"

[az3579]

The black piece? That is the piece they used to separate the ground wire from the harness and ground it properly. This was their fix for the taillight recall.

Here is the service bulletin.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/ucm367046/rcsb-11v438-4559.pdf


My dealer "performed the fix" for me and doesn't look like that at all.
I originally had the fix done by the PO the day I bought the car from him, well before any Service Bulletin came out for it. All he did was take out the ground wire, splice a connector on the end, and connect it to the "tab" in our tail light bulb carrier. When I went to the dealer to have the "fix" done, they had the car for an hour and said it was done. I checked it and it was pretty much untouched. I never received any new connectors (even though there was a hole burned through the ground pin on the harness connector) and the same cheapo fix is still in place today...

Since I already had the "fix" in place, they didn't do anything to it despite it still looking like a cheap repair. It's kind of annoying that I now have a burned hole through the harness connector and it will never be fixed by them since I already had something in place.

[ELCID86]

SES upon start at the train station this evening. Code P0302 misfire on cylinder 2. It was 19* out. Not sure if ambient temp has an effect or not.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[Dave1027]

SES upon start at the train station this evening. Code P0302 misfire on cylinder 2. It was 19* out. Not sure if ambient temp has an effect or not.

No other codes? Could be any number of things. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

If the code is the only one (like I had a couple times also on a cold morning) it could be piston ring not sealing well. I added a bottle of Lubegard to my oil and it never happened again.

[ELCID86]

No other codes? Could be any number of things. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

If the code is the only one (like I had a couple times also on a cold morning) it could be piston ring not sealing well. I added a bottle of Lubegard to my oil and it never happened again.

Just the one. I cleared it and will see if it returns. Thanks.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

Is there a way to verify what part number my suspension is without taking off the strut?

My dad's ZSP is a good half inch lower than my car. Just about every ZSP seems to be lower than my car.

This is a 17x8.5" with a 245/40/17 tire. Quite a bit more gap in there than the ZSPs I see with OEM style 68s.

17357


Thoughts?

[Just_George]

I'm far from an expert, but seems to me that the springs are the only thing that should affect that. I suppose it's possible that your car could have a 'non-standard' strut with the lower spring perch at a different position, but that seems unlikely. All that being said, I don't know how you could tell if the spring height is correct without removing it from the strut and either comparing to a correct spring or measuring it and trying to find some data that tells you what the height should be...

(fat lotta help I am, eh?!)

[Vas]

Springs have part numbers stamped on them.

[stephenkirsh]

Is it usually in the same spot? I don't have the ability to take the strut off :/

[Vas]

Usually yes. It is either a part number or a color stamp. Might be able to see it with the wheel removed.

[stephenkirsh]

Any idea where I can get information on the color stamp?

[Vas]

That I'm not sure. Maybe do a Google search ?

[bshovers]

While we're on the topic of suspension. I have sachs shocks/struts in the rear. Where can I find the production date on these bad boys?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[UdubBadger]

In the trash when you toss them for a set of KWv3's [emoji6]


GoingHAM mobile

[Just_George]

Any idea where I can get information on the color stamp?

Stephen, the Bentley manual has a page with height measurements for each suspension setup that might be helpful. It's page 300-21...if you don't have the Bentley manual, let me know and I'll try to scan it and email it to you.

[stephenkirsh]

Ok thanks. I think my dad has one.

[wsmeyer]

Is there a way to verify what part number my suspension is without taking off the strut?

My dad's ZSP is a good half inch lower than my car. Just about every ZSP seems to be lower than my car.

This is a 17x8.5" with a 245/40/17 tire. Quite a bit more gap in there than the ZSPs I see with OEM style 68s.

Thoughts?


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/p/y/12.png

Double check that the strut, part #1 is fully inserted into the kingpin, part #2 until it can't go any further, there will be some sort of physical stop. Kind of a long shot but worth checking.

[stephenkirsh]

Stephen, the Bentley manual has a page with height measurements for each suspension setup that might be helpful. It's page 300-21...if you don't have the Bentley manual, let me know and I'll try to scan it and email it to you.

My dad looked. Said there's no mention of zhp ride height.

[Hermes]

Any idea where I can get information on the color stamp?

I believe mine had a red stripe, but not 100% sure. Jack your car up and wipe the dust off your springs, what color is your stripe?

[bshovers]

In the trash when you toss them for a set of KWv3's [emoji6]


GoingHAM mobile


Just a tad out of my price range lol

[UdubBadger]

Just a tad out of my price range lol

Ok so kwv1s


GoingHAM mobile

[danewilson77]

Ok so kwv1s


GoingHAM mobile
Win.

"No flamesuit required"

[UdubBadger]

Talk to me about the E46 steering rack. How easy to go bad? Symptoms? Fixes?


GoingHAM mobile

[slater]

Is there a way to verify what part number my suspension is without taking off the strut?

My dad's ZSP is a good half inch lower than my car. Just about every ZSP seems to be lower than my car.

This is a 17x8.5" with a 245/40/17 tire. Quite a bit more gap in there than the ZSPs I see with OEM style 68s.

17357


Thoughts?

stephen, you're also running a shorter tire so the wheel 'gap' will be greater. measure ground-to-fender lip versus your dad's car and see where it's at.

peter

[stephenkirsh]

We're on identical wheel and tire sizes. ZSP = sports package, incase that was causing some confusion.

[UdubBadger]

Talk to me about the E46 steering rack. How easy to go bad? Symptoms? Fixes?


GoingHAM mobile

Anyone?


GoingHAM mobile

[ryankokesh]

Anyone?


GoingHAM mobile

I think the way they tend to go bad is seal failure. Although I could be wrong. You'd see loss of steering atf fluid, funny noises, etc.

Is there a reason you ask...?


Sent from my iPhone

[az3579]

My dad's ZSP is a good half inch lower than my car. Just about every ZSP seems to be lower than my car.


It's also possible his springs are shot, thereby resulting in lower ride height.

------------------------------

So recently my car decided it would be funny to SLAM when I hit bumps. It's hard to describe, but it's as though the wheel is hitting the bump with full force every time I hit one, regardless of the severity. It is very loud; I'm wondering if perhaps my shock is toast and it is no longer absorbing bumps?? I'm really worried I'll damage something if I keep driving it like this. Has anyone else's car done this before? I do not feel anything in the steering wheel when it does this, and it's only in the front, what seems like only the right side but I can't be sure.

I took a quick peek and it doesn't seem like my swap bar bushings or CABs are damaged; everything looks fine visually. :dunno

[UdubBadger]

I think the way they tend to go bad is seal failure. Although I could be wrong. You'd see loss of steering atf fluid, funny noises, etc.

Is there a reason you ask...?


Sent from my iPhone

No it just doesn't feel as tight as it should be. Haven't noticed any fluids. Probably not the rack, maybe something else?

Ideas?


GoingHAM mobile

[stephenkirsh]

It's also possible his springs are shot, thereby resulting in lower ride height.

------------------------------


I'm comparing my car to every ZSP I see. Just use my dad as an example since it's the easiest. His car barely has 60k on it and has been babied. Recent inspection with no issues, too.

I'll get around to checking my springs this weekend.

[az3579]

I'm comparing my car to every ZSP I see. Just use my dad as an example since it's the easiest. His car barely has 60k on it and has been babied. Recent inspection with no issues, too.

I'll get around to checking my springs this weekend.

In that case, someone probably just put the wrong springs back in your car when they replaced them. :(

[ELCID86]

In that case, someone probably just put the wrong springs back in your car when they replaced them. :(

Hmm, not a bad theory. Can they be measured on the car?

[OtterEffect]

No it just doesn't feel as tight as it should be. Haven't noticed any fluids. Probably not the rack, maybe something else?

Ideas?


GoingHAM mobile

Steering guibo perhaps?

[UdubBadger]

There is a guibo for the steering? Where is that?


GoingHAM mobile

[stephenkirsh]

I think he means U joint?

[wsmeyer]

There is a guibo for the steering? Where is that?


One of these babies:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/32301094703/ES52315/

Common source of steering play / slop

Hermes had a solid one for sale a while back

[stephenkirsh]

Yea that. I believe you can diagnose a bad one by being in a garage with the engine off and turning the wheel back and forth a small bit. Hearing a tap or clunk means it's worn out.

Can anybody else verify that?

[UdubBadger]

Good stuff, I'll pick one up and have the shop put it in next time


GoingHAM mobile

[ELCID86]

I'm glad you and the car are ok Alex.

Anyone know what this is?

17258


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

Looks like it is this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-tail-light-repair-kit-e46tailrepairkit

[stephenkirsh]

Any idea where I can get information on the color stamp?

Here's my spring. According the first Google search result, an e46f thread, red + white = sport with auto transmission. So I guess I'm OEM.

17544

[TigerTater]

Looking at replacing my some of my center console pieces for my birthday!...Looking online to find exactly what I want, and Im unsure what will fit as their seems to be some discrepancies in color and fitment? (maybe an optical illusion?) I want to keep it OEM with cup holders as I prefer them to the bin. Here are the links:

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86856/ center console
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86858/ cup holder
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86860/ coin holder

Anyone have any input on this?

[Hermes]

Here's my spring. According the first Google search result, an e46f thread, red + white = sport with auto transmission. So I guess I'm OEM.

17544

Your spring is not seated correctly

[wsmeyer]

Your spring is not seated correctly


DING DING DING... We have a winner!

[ELCID86]

The end of the spring should sit here. 17630

[stephenkirsh]

Omg duh. How did I miss that.

Anybody got a spring compressor? And know how to use it?!

Also, that might change the ride height a bit. I'll have to look to see if the other side is like that.

[ELCID86]

Omg duh. How did I miss that.

Anybody got a spring compressor? And know how to use it?!

Also, that might change the ride height a bit. I'll have to look to see if the other side is like that.

Ha. Advance Auto has them to "rent".


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[Just_George]

Sure, I have a spring compressor...c'mon over! Seriously, wish I could help - borrowing/renting from your local parts store sounds like a good idea.

[stephenkirsh]

I've no idea how to use one.

Is it as simple as compressing the spring and correctly seating it?

17631

Here's my driver side. Looks like this was either done on purpose or somebody messed up.

[Just_George]

First of all, you're going to have a hard time doing that with the strut assembly on the car. It MIGHT be possible, but it'll be tough - MUCH easier with the strut assembly removed from the car. That said, using a spring compressor is easy - there are different styles, but the most common will be a pair of screw-type spring compressors. These are long bolts with hooks at each end that clamp the coils of the spring. You put one on each side of the spring, then work back and forth between them, tightening each a little bit to compress the spring evenly. An impact makes this a lot easier... Rotate your spring so it sits properly in the lower spring perch, then remove the clamps the same way....a little bit at a time, alternating from side to side.

[ELCID86]

First of all, you're going to have a hard time doing that with the strut assembly on the car. It MIGHT be possible, but it'll be tough - MUCH easier with the strut assembly removed from the car. That said, using a spring compressor is easy - there are different styles, but the most common will be a pair of screw-type spring compressors. These are long bolts with hooks at each end that clamp the coils of the spring. You put one on each side of the spring, then work back and forth between them, tightening each a little bit to compress the spring evenly. An impact makes this a lot easier... Rotate your spring so it sits properly in the lower spring perch, then remove the clamps the same way....a little bit at a time, alternating from side to side.
+1 and especially this: An impact makes this a lot easier

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-strut-spring-compressor-kit-2-piece-648627/9150007-P

[ELCID86]

OK, so I donated one of my new lenses to Colin's car and I now need one (right) headlight lens. I was looking at one on ebay and the seller has this posted. Why wont a lens fit either AL or ZKW housings? (BTW, I don't plan to buy from this guy, but it just made me curious.



OEM Number: 63126924046
EAN Number: 8001063371627
Placement on vehicle: Right - Passenger Side
Remark: For vehicles equipped with AL/BOSCH headlights. Does not fit ZKW headlights! Make sure your car production date is later than 09/2001
Important: Check certification and shipping condition for Non-U.S. market!
Fits: BMW 3-Series E46 Sedan & Wagon 2001-2005 (Facelift)


ECS has this part listed: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_E46_HeadlightLens_4Door_325i/ES2550213/
Fits both halogen, and xenon headlight assemblies.
For vehicles equipped with AL headlights and production date from 09/2001

[Vas]

Lenses fit both zkw and al j headlights. Only difference is the stamp on the lenses.

[Vas]

Looking at replacing my some of my center console pieces for my birthday!...Looking online to find exactly what I want, and Im unsure what will fit as their seems to be some discrepancies in color and fitment? (maybe an optical illusion?) I want to keep it OEM with cup holders as I prefer them to the bin. Here are the links:

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86856/ center console
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86858/ cup holder
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES86860/ coin holder

Anyone have any input on this?
I just did this. Bought my parts from the bmw mini parts store. Cheaper prices them Ecs tuning.

[ELCID86]

Lenses fit both zkw and al j headlights. Only difference is the stamp on the lenses.

That's what I thought. Weird how they have it listed though.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[TigerTater]

I just did this. Bought my parts from the bmw mini parts store. Cheaper prices them Ecs tuning.

Are those pn good? What's the link? Thanks

[Vas]

Is your interior beige ?

[Vas]

If it is , then the center console with armrest is 51168217942, cup holder is 51168217955 and coin tray is 51168217959.

I found the best prices when I bought mine was here. http://thebmwminipartstore.com/

Just select vehicle information and plug in part numbers.

[stephenkirsh]

The end of the spring should sit here. 17630

Some people on the interwebs are saying this is correct for e46/39. Not just one person, too.

[wsmeyer]

Some people on the interwebs are saying this is correct for e46/39. Not just one person, too.

They're saying the way yours is mounted is correct?

[LivesNearCostco]

The correct mounting of E46 springs has one end seated in the spring pocket and the other end is not seated in what looks like a spring pocket. Unfortunately, I don't remember which end of the spring (top or bottom) does sit in the pocket and which doesn't. And I no longer have OEM springs on the car (they're still in the garage somewhere). So I can't offer a reasonable opinion on Stephen's springs.

[wsmeyer]

Those detents are there for a reason. Not seating the end of the spring in them boggles my mind.

This is from the Bentley manual:

17659

[onaquest]

Do ZHP's come with ///M dead pedals or door sills?

[derbo]

Do ZHP's come with ///M dead pedals or door sills?

Nope. You can buy the M dead pedal new from the dealer. The door sills were part of the M sport package in Europe but not here oddly. I've seen ton of door sills on eBay.co.uk for sale but shipping will be ugly.


Sent from iPad Mini

[onaquest]

Nope. You can buy the M dead pedal new from the dealer. The door sills were part of the M sport package in Europe but not here oddly. I've seen ton of door sills on eBay.co.uk for sale but shipping will be ugly.


Sent from iPad Mini

Thanks for confirming. My Canadian spec M sport II has these items. I've been compiling a list of the similarities and differences of S767A and S338A packages.

-Ryan

[stephenkirsh]

They're saying the way yours is mounted is correct?

Yes



The correct mounting of E46 springs has one end seated in the spring pocket and the other end is not seated in what looks like a spring pocket. Unfortunately, I don't remember which end of the spring (top or bottom) does sit in the pocket and which doesn't. And I no longer have OEM springs on the car (they're still in the garage somewhere). So I can't offer a reasonable opinion on Stephen's springs.

Ok thanks. My dad said he's going to try and look at his today.


Those detents are there for a reason. Not seating the end of the spring in them boggles my mind.

This is from the Bentley manual:

17659

Makes sense. Thanks!

[stephenkirsh]

17679

This is my dad's ZSP. Looks the same as mine.

[ELCID86]

Best I could do without starting the car. Looks similar though. False alarm?

17680


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[stephenkirsh]

Hard to tell. You can jack your car up about 4" and get a better angle

[Hermes]

Your dad's is set wrong as well. BMW has been using this style spring seat for as long as I can think. There is no reason why the end of the spring would not seat in the notch. Those people online who say it's ok are stupid, the spring is supposed to sit in the notch.

edit: 1978/79 E21 struts, notice the notch

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/320i/83CDF4FF-B7B6-4BB7-902A-E2E6F6B87C81.jpg

early 02 front suspension (my springs are too short, thats why its not seated in top. it's a bitch every time I raise and lower the car to make sure the springs are seated correctly)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/2002/P1030946.jpg

non-stock e46, but you can see it's sitting in the notch

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/330Ci%20Mysticblau/A37785AC-C53E-4958-BA54-53D165878368.jpg

[Hornung418]

Before I installed the Lowering springs, the stock springs were seated the way Stephen's pictures show. They were never touched prior to me messing with them. The spring perch is oblong and the spring base is also shaped so that they will only fit on there one way. I tried to seat them that way as thats what made sense, however that's not how they ended up fitting on the strut.

[johnrando]

Wow. We need an expert judge for a verdict on the springs.

[derbo]

Wow. We need an expert judge for a verdict on the springs.

I'll have to agree with JP. All spring perches I've encounter has a perch notch where the uneven flat spring side sits in. The flat side is aimed at the top portion of the shock.


Sent from iPad Mini

[stephenkirsh]

It makes 100% sense that the end of the spring should fit into that notch.

So why are so many cars, including low mileage OEM cars (like my dad's) not up to spec? What causes them to pop out?

[derbo]

It makes 100% sense that the end of the spring should fit into that notch.

So why are so many cars, including low mileage OEM cars (like my dad's) not up to spec? What causes them to pop out?

It's possible that when they are jacked up and the steering is turned, the springs have low enough tension to twist out of position. Only a guess on my part.


Sent from iPad Mini

[zYx]

Here is link for 325Ci (suspension is the same, 325 is selected from my bookmarks, was lazy to change) from TIS and they are only mentioning upper end of coil and alignment to stop of spring pad. I'm also positive that only upper end must be resting on stop of pad and not the lower. So, stephenkirsh's spring is OK.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/325ci_m54_coupe/2_repair_instructions/31__front_axle/31__spring_strut/5_ra__replacing_front_left_or_right_spring_strut_s hock_absorber/page_1487/

[Pip]

Anyone ever get a tin sound when turning right and right after releasing the e-brake? It sounds like maybe the e-brake is slightly loose and rubbing when turning (a tin sound that has the wom wom wom sound...rubbing in a turn).

[UdubBadger]

That's a new one on me and I feel like I've experience a large catalog of sounds/common failures on my car


GoingHAM mobile

[johnrando]

I lost a rivet when attaching the 'heat shield' back to my car body. I can't find what this rivet is. Anyone know? I'm attaching the overall view for reference and a zoomed in view. It's the one with the hole. :)

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/26/bb6836b11702cf9e72b3d3fd8f6fa754.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/26/93789f88dfcee8d9fd8d19d7e8207d23.jpg

Sent from mobile

[Taliben]

I lost a rivet when attaching the 'heat shield' back to my car body. I can't find what this rivet is. Anyone know? I'm attaching the overall view for reference and a zoomed in view. It's the one with the hole. :)



Sent from mobile

I think I lost that one too haha. I just gave up on it tbh,

[johnrando]

I think I lost that one too haha. I just gave up on it tbh,

Technically I lost the one that went to the firewall, but I used the 1 left for that. So, now I've got this one. Hopefully someone knows, I hate not having everything in place.

[alexandre]

Technically I lost the one that went to the firewall, but I used the 1 left for that. So, now I've got this one. Hopefully someone knows, I hate not having everything in place.

Fairly certain it's either 51718204904 or 51718215962.

[johnrando]

Thanks! Hard to tell which. I'll roll the dice and get one of each since it's under $4.00 total.

[alexandre]

My blower motor went when my car was in the shop 2 weeks ago. I had it replaced with a scrap yard unit immediately as I needed heat for an imminent road trip. I found out new X3 units (which are interchangeable) are $100. I paid $80 for the used one and I can return it within 2 weeks. What do? I've seen DIY time estimates go up to 6 hours but my tech took 40 minutes to do it...

[stephenkirsh]

My blower motor went when my car was in the shop 2 weeks ago. I had it replaced with a scrap yard unit immediately as I needed heat for an imminent road trip. I found out new X3 units (which are interchangeable) are $100. I paid $80 for the used one and I can return it within 2 weeks. What do? I've seen DIY time estimates go up to 6 hours but my tech took 40 minutes to do it...

6 hours?! Are they accessing the motor from inside the car?

[stephenkirsh]

Here is link for 325Ci (suspension is the same, 325 is selected from my bookmarks, was lazy to change) from TIS and they are only mentioning upper end of coil and alignment to stop of spring pad. I'm also positive that only upper end must be resting on stop of pad and not the lower. So, stephenkirsh's spring is OK.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/325ci_m54_coupe/2_repair_instructions/31__front_axle/31__spring_strut/5_ra__replacing_front_left_or_right_spring_strut_s hock_absorber/page_1487/

So I'm back to square one about my rattle?

[alexandre]

6 hours?! Are they accessing the motor from inside the car?

Nope - lots of fiddling around to get it to sit right apparently.

[ELCID86]

^ was going to ask you the other day if you used the x3 blower...

[stephenkirsh]

Your dad's is set wrong as well. BMW has been using this style spring seat for as long as I can think. There is no reason why the end of the spring would not seat in the notch. Those people online who say it's ok are stupid, the spring is supposed to sit in the notch.

edit: 1978/79 E21 struts, notice the notch

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/320i/83CDF4FF-B7B6-4BB7-902A-E2E6F6B87C81.jpg

early 02 front suspension (my springs are too short, thats why its not seated in top. it's a bitch every time I raise and lower the car to make sure the springs are seated correctly)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/2002/P1030946.jpg

non-stock e46, but you can see it's sitting in the notch

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/330Ci%20Mysticblau/A37785AC-C53E-4958-BA54-53D165878368.jpg

Here's what my BMW master tech says. He started working at dealerships when e90 came out and has seen plenty of e46 over time.

17736

Him + the Bentley manual makes me think my springs are fine.

[ELCID86]

Maybe this should be in the edumacate me on suspension thread. :dunno

[LivesNearCostco]

To respond to question why shouldn't the lower end of the spring sit in the lower perch pocket?
1) The lower is not a pocket to capture the end of the spring, it's a notch to fit a spring compressor arm in there
2) Look at shape of lower notch and upper notch--very different shapes at least on OEM strut
3) Spring shouldn't turn with steering (whole strut turns on bearing in strut hat). But when you compress the spring the ends may rotate relative to each other, so if you have both top and bottom ends captured in pockets, they won't stay there all the time.

Here's what my BMW master tech says. He started working at dealerships when e90 came out and has seen plenty of e46 over time.

I lost the same plastic push rivet as Rando.

My e-brake makes soft creaking noises if I don't crank it tight enough and get in or out of the car.

My blower fan took about 6 hours to remove and replace the first time, about 4 hours the 2nd time, and if I had to do it again, <3 hours. Just have to remove lots of pieces to get to it, and some of the torx screws holding it in are hard to remove/replace. (The first time I just oiled it, the 2nd time I replaced it).

[johnrando]

I ordered both so I'll let you know which it is.

[danewilson77]

Does air bag deployment in an E46 activate a kill switch to prevent car from being started?

"No flamesuit required"

[ELCID86]

Does air bag deployment in an E46 activate a kill switch to prevent car from being started?

"No flamesuit required"

Justin?


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[danewilson77]

No. Just some dude.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

[danewilson77]

This guy wrecked his car. He did all the repairs himself (to include replacing the air bags) and now needs to drive the car to body and paint shop. But it won't start.

The friendliest forum on the planet.

[danewilson77]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/26/c8bf29594a6f903140ce2c020d256797.jpg

"No flamesuit required"

[danewilson77]

Told him I was pretty sure air bag deployment activated a kill switch of sorts.

"No flamesuit required"

[alexandre]

Wow. I would've sent this straight to the scrapper.

[derbo]

To respond to question why shouldn't the lower end of the spring sit in the lower perch pocket?
1) The lower is not a pocket to capture the end of the spring, it's a notch to fit a spring compressor arm in there
2) Look at shape of lower notch and upper notch--very different shapes at least on OEM strut
3) Spring shouldn't turn with steering (whole strut turns on bearing in strut hat). But when you compress the spring the ends may rotate relative to each other, so if you have both top and bottom ends captured in pockets, they won't stay there all the time.



That makes sense. I was just guessing because I was assuming the notch was correct and couldn't explain why it would change.

[theothersawyer]

So a couple of times when I go to unlock my car, it only unlocks the drivers door no matter how many times I push the button (on the key or inside the car) The only way to let a passenger in was to open the door from the inside. Anyone know why? Is it something weird that I just happen to have done each time or is it some electrical gremlin?

[alexandre]

So a couple of times when I go to unlock my car, it only unlocks the drivers door no matter how many times I push the button (on the key or inside the car) The only way to let a passenger in was to open the door from the inside. Anyone know why? Is it something weird that I just happen to have done each time or is it some electrical gremlin?

Your GM5 is probably getting tired. www.bmwgm5.com

[theothersawyer]

Thank you!!!

[danewilson77]

Told him I was pretty sure air bag deployment activated a kill switch of sorts.

"No flamesuit required"
Anyone confirm this?

"No flamesuit required"

[wsmeyer]

There definitely is a kill switch on our + cable, which is why it costs so much:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BW53&mospid=47707&btnr=61_1108&hg=61&fg=30

Whether it tripped or not is another matter. Easy to test with a voltage meter though.

[Vas]

Is the trunk supposed to unlock if you hit the unlock button on the key twice ?

[E_Rak]

Made a mistake and slid into a granite curbstone --> bent rear lower control arm. What should be replaced along with it?

Details on damage: definitely cambered the wrong direction, only slightly though. Alignment way off, as expected. Moved the car into a parking space, no scraping sounds or other unusuals. ABS / Brake lights now on the dash. Also i royally fucked my rim. So yeah. Good day. Live and learn.

Looked underneath and everything seemed in order apart from the arm.

[derbo]

Is the trunk supposed to unlock if you hit the unlock button on the key twice ?

Yes.

[stephenkirsh]

To respond to question why shouldn't the lower end of the spring sit in the lower perch pocket?
1) The lower is not a pocket to capture the end of the spring, it's a notch to fit a spring compressor arm in there
2) Look at shape of lower notch and upper notch--very different shapes at least on OEM strut
3) Spring shouldn't turn with steering (whole strut turns on bearing in strut hat). But when you compress the spring the ends may rotate relative to each other, so if you have both top and bottom ends captured in pockets, they won't stay there all the time.


I lost the same plastic push rivet as Rando.

My e-brake makes soft creaking noises if I don't crank it tight enough and get in or out of the car.

My blower fan took about 6 hours to remove and replace the first time, about 4 hours the 2nd time, and if I had to do it again, <3 hours. Just have to remove lots of pieces to get to it, and some of the torx screws holding it in are hard to remove/replace. (The first time I just oiled it, the 2nd time I replaced it).


Maybe this should be in the edumacate me on suspension thread. :dunno


Here's what my BMW master tech says. He started working at dealerships when e90 came out and has seen plenty of e46 over time.

17736

Him + the Bentley manual makes me think my springs are fine.


So I'm back to square one about my rattle?

Ok I'll put this to rest in this thread and say my springs are fine and my clunk isn't related to improperly set springs.

Phew. Quite a discussion!

[Vas]

Yes.
Wonder why mine won't. Holding the trunk button on the fob opens it though.

[LivesNearCostco]

If your trunk is double locked then unlocking all the doors won't unlock the trunk but the trunk key fob button still will open it. This is to prevent a valet or window smashing thief from being able to open your trunk. Use key to turn trunk lock to the left (counter-clockwise) and then the trunk should unlock when all the other doors are unlocked. Unless your trunk latch switch has failed.

[NoVAphotog]

My blower fan took about 6 hours to remove and replace the first time, about 4 hours the 2nd time, and if I had to do it again, <3 hours. Just have to remove lots of pieces to get to it, and some of the torx screws holding it in are hard to remove/replace. (The first time I just oiled it, the 2nd time I replaced it).

What did you use to oil it and was that done to cure the crickets that have moved into my dash?

[ELCID86]

Wonder why mine won't. Holding the trunk button on the fob opens it though.

Ditto.

[alexandre]

What did you use to oil it and was that done to cure the crickets that have moved into my dash?

If you have crickets you're just delaying failure... IMO if you're gonna pull it throw a new one in there. The X3 blower is a direct fit (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14677302&postcount=174) and only $100-105. #64113453729

[Ryans323i]

If you have crickets you're just delaying failure... IMO if you're gonna pull it throw a new one in there. The X3 blower is a direct fit (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14677302&postcount=174) and only $100-105. #64113453729
Bookmarked! Thanks for sharing!

[NoVAphotog]

If you have crickets you're just delaying failure... IMO if you're gonna pull it throw a new one in there. The X3 blower is a direct fit (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14677302&postcount=174) and only $100-105. #64113453729

Sweet. And that pn comes with the new saddle? Also, 20-40 minute DIY?! I had definitely read the 6+ hour ones before and was :eyetwitch

Anything else to do "while I'm in there" besides general cleaning? What type of oil should I put on the new one (if necessary)?

[alexandre]

Sweet. And that pn comes with the new saddle? Also, 20-40 minute DIY?! I had definitely read the 6+ hour ones before and was :eyetwitch

Anything else to do "while I'm in there" besides general cleaning? What type of oil should I put on the new one (if necessary)?

I think so. I too was under the impression it was a horrible DIY but my tech took 40 mins too...

Only thing I'd do while in there is vacuum the heater core. Nothing else really. I doubt the new one needs oil - I'd just install and that's it.

[NoVAphotog]

I think so. I too was under the impression it was a horrible DIY but my tech took 40 mins too...

Only thing I'd do while in there is vacuum the heater core. Nothing else really. I doubt the new one needs oil - I'd just install and that's it.

Sounds good. Thanks for the PN and advice on this, I can't get over that price difference...and to think there are folks out there blindly paying it at the stealerships the world over (among many other things, of course)!

[az3579]

If you have crickets you're just delaying failure... IMO if you're gonna pull it throw a new one in there. The X3 blower is a direct fit (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=14677302&postcount=174) and only $100-105. #64113453729

Thanks for the info, Alex. I've heard the crickets on mine before but have since gone away, never to be heard again. I'm sure the blower will give up the ghost one of these years.


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[alexandre]

Thanks for the info, Alex. I've heard the crickets on mine before but have since gone away, never to be heard again. I'm sure the blower will give up the ghost one of these years.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It was intermittent in mine. Mostly happened on extremely cold mornings (sub 0F). Certainly not all the time like on Daniel's car. And then it just died out of nowhere.


Sounds good. Thanks for the PN and advice on this, I can't get over that price difference...and to think there are folks out there blindly paying it at the stealerships the world over (among many other things, of course)!

Unbelievable I know. MSRP is even higher than on that thread now - $708.90!!! My local dealer will happily sell me one for $915. I'm just laughing at how ridiculous this is.

The guy that found out that the X3 one is a direct fit is a genius. Ordered one through BMW of Morristown for $100.10 and will be returning the scrapyard unit currently in my car. I'll let you guys know how the job goes...

[LivesNearCostco]

I used WD-40 because I had the crickets and it worked for a short time, then the crickets came back and I replaced it with a new aftermarket fan that cost, maybe $150?

Been going over it in my head to try to figure out if I could replace it in 40 minutes. Memory is a little fuzzy having done this around 3 years ago but the fastest I can imagine doing it tomorrow is 2 hours. But I'm a slow mechanic, so maybe an expert can do it in 40 minutes.


What did you use to oil it and was that done to cure the crickets that have moved into my dash?

[UdubBadger]

How often should you change out Power Steering fluid?

[NoVAphotog]

How often should you change out Power Steering fluid?
According to old school guide, 30k, I believe. I'll double check.

[ELCID86]

How often should you change out Power Steering fluid?

Mike Miller says @30k.


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[NoVAphotog]

Mike Miller says @30k.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
:thumbsup

[ELCID86]

Seth and don't forget the reservoir has a filter built in so should be changed periodically (but probably not as frequently).


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[UdubBadger]

Ok cool thanks. Don't think I included that in my maintenance overhaul this past year, could be part of why my steering feels off. What would really old fluid do to steering effect?

[stephenkirsh]

Define "off"

[UdubBadger]

loose maybe? :dunno

[derbo]

Wonder why mine won't. Holding the trunk button on the fob opens it though.

It's suppose to enable the latch to be pressed.


Sent from iPad Mini

[Johal E32]

loose maybe? :dunno

I don't think it would make it feel loose? Just extract the old fluid and throw some fresh ATF in there. You could disconnect a line a get more fluid out. When I change the fluid, I change it three times from the reservoir after every time I drive it. In order to get as much old fluid out and fresh fluid in.

[ELCID86]

Ok cool thanks. Don't think I included that in my maintenance overhaul this past year, could be part of why my steering feels off. What would really old fluid do to steering effect?


loose maybe? :dunno


I don't think it would make it feel loose? Just extract the old fluid and throw some fresh ATF in there. You could disconnect a line a get more fluid out. When I change the fluid, I change it three times from the reservoir after every time I drive it. In order to get as much old fluid out and fresh fluid in.

I'm not sure, but I'm sure Daniel could tell--he's very sensitive to these minor changes ;-] This would be a good first step, then on to mechanical components.

See the DIY, i used the trukey baster method and refill then with car on, go lock to lock with the wheel several times. "rinse and repeat" ~3 times. I'd go ahead and do the reservoir/filter for the sake of knowing its new.

[NoVAphotog]

I'm not sure, but I'm sure Daniel could tell--he's very sensitive to these minor changes ;-] This would be a good first step, then on to mechanical components.

See the DIY, i used the trukey baster method and refill then with car on, go lock to lock with the wheel several times. "rinse and repeat" ~3 times. I'd go ahead and do the reservoir/filter for the sake of knowing its new.

I can't say I noticed a major difference after replacing the reservoir and flushing the fluid but then again it was done at ~60k. I would venture to guess old fluid could affect steering the same way not changing the transmission fluid affects shifts (sludgy, loose, etc) given how it works with the pump/hydraulic system. I agree with Shawn in that it'd definitely be a good thing to start with as it helps retain the health of the pump itself. Move onto the mechanical components if the same feeling continues.

[UdubBadger]

And which components would that be? I know there isn't a visible leak in the steering rack. What else could it be? The entire suspension has been replaced in the 2 years I've had the car.

Steering have a guibo or something that would wear out? Couldn't find any parts for that from TMS or ECS.