The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[san]

How often is it recommended to replace spark plugs on our cars?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[///Mark_D]

I've been following this guide from Archbid on E46Fanatics for the most part when it comes to maintenance schedule. Spark plugs are good for around 100k, but I've actually been doing them closer to 60k using FCPEuro's replacement warranty.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-e46-maintenance-schedule.1268849/

[cakM3]

I've been following this guide from Archbid on E46Fanatics for the most part when it comes to maintenance schedule. Spark plugs are good for around 100k, but I've actually been doing them closer to 60k using FCPEuro's replacement warranty.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-e46-maintenance-schedule.1268849/

That is a good guide to follow. Thanks for posting the link. :thumbsup

I can tell you that the fuel pump interval is about right. I learned this from experience. A lot of what Archbid posted in his guide is what I go by when maintaining my cars.

[san]

I've been following this guide from Archbid on E46Fanatics for the most part when it comes to maintenance schedule. Spark plugs are good for around 100k, but I've actually been doing them closer to 60k using FCPEuro's replacement warranty.

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-e46-maintenance-schedule.1268849/

Thanks Mark!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

Next question:

I know a lot of you recommend Eldor ignition coils but I don’t see that listed for our cars, so have they been discontinued or something else?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330Ci/Ignition-Coil/?year=2005&m=20&e=180&t=6&b=9&d=589&v=

Can’t find it on ECS as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

Next question:

I know a lot of you recommend Eldor ignition coils but I don’t see that listed for our cars, so have they been discontinued or something else?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330Ci/Ignition-Coil/?year=2005&m=20&e=180&t=6&b=9&d=589&v=

Can’t find it on ECS as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought them last year, they are still available here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273

[san]

I bought them last year, they are still available here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273

Yup, saw that but it doesn’t list our car under figment so wasn’t sure.
Thanks for confirming


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[das boots]

I bought them last year, they are still available here: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273

Read the FCP reviews. Are these also good for a '03 E39 530i M54. Although FCP states not applicable to a M54 E39. Wonder why FCP does not recommend on M54s.

I just might replace my ZHP with these coils with 165+ mi.

However the coils are still original to the E39. Thinking of time for a replacement at 135+ mi on the clock. Engine would have a slight jerking (sometime) on 1st gear as releasing of clutch. I have to really play the real smooth release of the clutch to avoid the slight jerking.

[papa_g]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220604/b103974e89b0dbc738b369b3b7ae322c.jpg
So just finished with my new A/T sump gasket and filter, and decided to try to figure out what is going on here. I’ve noticed for a long time that this piston looking thingy (I have no idea what it is or what it’s for) is always wet with oil. I thought it might be from my sump gasket leak, but I am concerned it might be a leak of its own. Anyone ever seen this?
The part in the red circle has some play to it; kinda rocks in and out 1-2mm. I don’t know if this is supposed to have play or not, but it looks like I may be able to tighten that nut down. Wanted to see what you guys had to say about it first before doing anything dumb. Thanks guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PdZHP]

Looks like that's the infamous transmission selector shaft seal leak.

[BMWCurves]

I am planning to do my OFHG along with an oil change and was wondering what else I should consider doing while I'm in there?

I'm using a few resources to do it, but FCP Euro has this OFHG replacement kit with a lot of parts, a lot of which seem overkill: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46

Thoughts?

[san]

I am planning to do my OFHG along with an oil change and was wondering what else I should consider doing while I'm in there?

I'm using a few resources to do it, but FCP Euro has this OFHG replacement kit with a lot of parts, a lot of which seem overkill: https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-the-oil-filter-housing-gasket-vanos-line-bmw-e46

Thoughts?

The obvious items are belts and pulleys and tensioners. If you want to replace the bolts, make sure they’re genuine BMW. The bolts I got with my replacement tensioner snapped while I was torquing it, so I reused the old one.
The fcp kit doesn’t seem too overkill to me. The coolant sensor gasket I think does start to leak at some point (I could be wrong) and the oil line they recommended changing does leak slightly on my car and I probably should’ve replaced it. But I think you’re fine reusing the bolts which is what I did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

The obvious items are belts and pulleys and tensioners. If you want to replace the bolts, make sure they’re genuine BMW. The bolts I got with my replacement tensioner snapped while I was torquing it, so I reused the old one.
The fcp kit doesn’t seem too overkill to me. The coolant sensor gasket I think does start to leak at some point (I could be wrong) and the oil line they recommended changing does leak slightly on my car and I probably should’ve replaced it. But I think you’re fine reusing the bolts which is what I did.

Okay, good to know. I'll pass on the pulleys/tensioners and belts as those are up to date, and I replaced the VANOS oil line previously. So it sounds like I should maybe grab the bolts and the sensors? Any preferences/suggestions on brands for the sensors?

[san]

Bolts if you want to replace, I’d go genuine BMW for sure. Not worth the hassle of snapping a bolt.

Sensors I might go with OE supplier but haven’t replaced those on my car, so just stating what I would do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Will]

Don't forget the crush washers for that VANOS hose, even if you're reusing the hose.

[///Mark_D]

Check the upper/lower intake boots for cracking, and the fuel pressure reg vacuum line on the F connector in the intake boot. Also worth inspecting the DISA while you're in there for a loose flap or failed vacuum bladder.

Might also want to consider replacing the CCV while you're in there since you'll have about half the parts you need to remove already taken off. If you go that route, it's a good time to do the VCG as well since you'll have that CCV line disconnected from the valve cover.

I am down a similar rabbit hole right now replacing all the same parts on my daily driver 325i sedan. Most of it I've already replaced at least once before so the parts are free with FCP's warranty.

[BMWCurves]

Check the upper/lower intake boots for cracking, and the fuel pressure reg vacuum line on the F connector in the intake boot. Also worth inspecting the DISA while you're in there for a loose flap or failed vacuum bladder.

Might also want to consider replacing the CCV while you're in there since you'll have about half the parts you need to remove already taken off. If you go that route, it's a good time to do the VCG as well since you'll have that CCV line disconnected from the valve cover.

I am down a similar rabbit hole right now replacing all the same parts on my daily driver 325i sedan. Most of it I've already replaced at least once before so the parts are free with FCP's warranty.

All good suggestions - thankfully I've replaced the upper and lower intake boots already, rebuilt the DISA valve recently, and same with the VCG. Haven't touched my CCV but I don't think I'll have time this weekend to do that.

Good luck on your repairs/maintenance!

[papa_g]

Question for anyone who has done a heated seat retrofit: do I need to do my own wiring, or can I use the wires from the donor vehicle?

Context: I am looking at some new seats for my zhp. They have lumbar support and heated function. My zhp currently has none of these options. I am wondering how simple it will be to transfer the the seats over to my car and integrate heated seat functionality.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[YoitsTmac]

It would be easier to wire your own in my opinion, assuming you have wires and buy some terminals. On a donor car, the heated seat bits will be intertwined with the main harness.

One fat one thin from each seat to center console. Then thick ground to a ground terminal under the seat.

[papa_g]

It would be easier to wire your own in my opinion, assuming you have wires and buy some terminals. On a donor car, the heated seat bits will be intertwined with the main harness.

One fat one thin from each seat to center console. Then thick ground to a ground terminal under the seat.

thank you, sounds simple enough. Just need to get my hands on a center console piece with the seat heater buttons now

[ZHPizza]

thank you, sounds simple enough. Just need to get my hands on a center console piece with the seat heater buttons nowI think I have one in my stash that I bought for when I was going to wire up the heated seats in the wife's touring. Never got around to that project so it's going back on eBay unless you want it!

[papa_g]

I think I have one in my stash that I bought for when I was going to wire up the heated seats in the wife's touring. Never got around to that project so it's going back on eBay unless you want it!

Is it the 5 button version? 2 heated seats, Traction control, dynamic sound and tire pressure reset?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RamTheJam]

Where to find an affordable replacement front bumper for 04 coupe?
I was shipped one for a sedan. It's a bit too wide at the ends.
Didn't know or think they would be different. It seems some suppliers don't realise their's a Base (sedan) and a Coupe.
Part number...anyone? Mod trick? Secrect mount parts?
I learned something new. Even my shop guy was head scrathing.

[John in VA]

Where to find an affordable replacement front bumper for 04 coupe?
I was shipped one for a sedan. It's a bit too wide at the ends.
Didn't know or think they would be different. It seems some suppliers don't realise their's a Base (sedan) and a Coupe.
Part number...anyone? Mod trick? Secrect mount parts?
I learned something new. Even my shop guy was head scrathing.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-09-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=51_4310

[papa_g]

Where to find an affordable replacement front bumper for 04 coupe?
I was shipped one for a sedan. It's a bit too wide at the ends.
Didn't know or think they would be different. It seems some suppliers don't realise their's a Base (sedan) and a Coupe.
Part number...anyone? Mod trick? Secrect mount parts?
I learned something new. Even my shop guy was head scrathing.

This is for an mtech II bumper right? Have you tried ümnitza? That’s where I’m going to get mine. Waiting for a sale though haha

[YoitsTmac]

This is for an mtech II bumper right? Have you tried ümnitza? That’s where I’m going to get mine. Waiting for a sale though haha

Let me know what you think. They’re right by me and my bumper should really be re-done

[papa_g]

Let me know what you think. They’re right by me and my bumper should really be re-done

For sure. I've heard good things, even that their prepainted parts are pretty spot on.

[papa_g]

Unable to find definitive info on this, but does someone know if I need to get a new wire harness for the heated seat swap, or are our cars already equipped with the necessary harnesses to accommodate new wires routed to the heated seat pins?

[YoitsTmac]

You need to add wires manually. One thin wire and one fat wire from the center console to each seat. And then a thick ground to the ground comb under the seats. I don’t have the pin connectors on me, but Archbid has a great DIY that lists all these parts and potentially pins. If you have any issues, PM me as I’m doing the same project. I’m just @work

[BADCLOWN]

I recently revamped my cell phone mount situation in my 4runner. I was using one of the two cupholders to house a cell phone holder but have switched the setup to free that cup holder up. As a result of all this, I switched to a magsafe iPhone case (integrated magnetic ring into case, slim in width but the diameter of the circle is large and then it has a small straight magnetic strip at the 6 oclock)

Id like to do the same in the ZHP, I currently just prop the iPhone up in the cupholder but I would like to switch to something magsafe. Ive seen those cell phone mounts that are on the right side of the radio area. Who makes those? Does anyone have any magsafe/magnetic mount suggestions? Im looking for a really clean setup that doesn't stick out too much or look out of place while trying to free my cup holders up.

[Archbid]

I am a big fan of this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Compatible-Magnetic-Charging-Included/dp/B09F8RLBQY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=1JYZJ4AEGGKJH&keywords=magsafe+car+mount&qid=1658575810&sprefix=magsafe+car+mount%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-5

[BADCLOWN]

Looks clean, but I’d like to not block a vent if possible and don’t want to stick anything on the dash

[papa_g]

Looks clean, but I’d like to not block a vent if possible and don’t want to stick anything on the dash

Right now I’m using a scosche magnet that sticks to the front console.

Pros: low profile and matches the interior. Doesn’t get in the way of any buttons or vents

Cons: the adhesive does not mate well with our cube trims. It works ok with my iPhone 8, but in the summer heat the adhesive doesn’t stick very well and a heavier phone will pull it off. Been brainstorming some ideas to mitigate this as I really like the mount in general.

This is the kind I have

https://www.academy.com/p/scosche-magicmount-select-magnetic-dash-mount-

[BADCLOWN]

I’ve heard good things about that brand but alas, I don’t want to stick an adhesive directly on the dash or the CF dash trim.

[az3579]

I think what you are looking for is something similar to what I have in mine, which is a Bimmian mount. This one mounts directly to the dash with a bolt.
I just stick an adhesive magnetic mount on the plate and use that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51021705692_b6bb218484_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kJBzwU)KTqy5RC (https://flic.kr/p/2kJBzwU) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51230469565_fa68de8e9d_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m44xL2)PXL_20210606_181331538 (https://flic.kr/p/2m44xL2) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr


I found something similar online, though it doesn't have the large metal plate and includes the magnetic mount itself. It is not compatible with MagSafe charging but it does include an adapter to at least be able to mount it with MagSafe.

https://www.rennline.com/exactfit-magnetic-phone-mount-sku-pm01-17/

Unfortunately Bimmian is now defunct, so I'm not sure where else you can get one like mine.

[BADCLOWN]

That’s the mount I was referring too, I guess I’ll have to do some digging and try to find it or something similar. Rennline quality looks nice


If anyone happens across a used bimmian mount, I’ll throw a finders fee their way

[az3579]

Found an alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151837233992?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EUONP8z0QjS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Sent from my Pixel 5a using Tapatalk

[BADCLOWN]

I feel like the bimmian one is angled a little more towards the driver no?

[John in VA]

I feel like the bimmian one is angled a little more towards the driver no?
Reading some other forum threads, some believed the Bimmian mount was made by PanaVise.

[WOLFN8TR]

Reading some other forum threads, some believed the Bimmian mount was made by PanaVise.

Yes it was….

[san]

>200k miles maintenance: what are things that need to be replaced or at least need to be looked at at this mileage?

I’m not talking about replacing the cooling system for the second time or parts that need to be replaced at 100k intervals (did that already). I’m specifically asking about replacing parts for the first time at this mileage. I’m thinking parts like-
Coolant pipes under intake manifold
Front Controls arms? (I’m assuming they fail without warning)
FRM (is this a maintenance item?

What else can you’ll think of?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

What is best option for a new/rebuilt power steering pump these days? The high schooler neighbor we sold my wife's 2000 328i (165k miles) to says it's bad. I replaced the rack (Rack Doctor rebuild), PS hoses, PS reservoir/filter/cap last summer.

Thanks!

[YoitsTmac]

I just pulled out everything for my stock nav except the harness. Is it worth anything as a set? I see a ton of them on eBay individually but I'd like to just get rid of it in one swoop.

[BADCLOWN]

Planning to upgrade to 345x28 (CSL spec) rotors in the front. I know where to get the carrier brackets for the BMWP calipers and will be getting new pads/wear sensors. Question being: I am assuming longer brake lines would be needed?

[san]

Does anyone know if this pedal set works on our cars?

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-stainless-steel-pedal-pads-35000410099

I’m getting conflicting information between websites so it’s unclear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Does anyone know if this pedal set works on our cars?

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-stainless-steel-pedal-pads-35000410099

I’m getting conflicting information between websites so it’s unclear.
Realoem.com & bmwfans.info are the only sites I see that say they are not for E46 application.

[san]

Realoem.com & bmwfans.info are the only sites I see that say they are not for E46 application.

Ecs and fcp also don’t show e46 as compatible. Guess I’ll send them an email and ask… I’ve seen that they can be wrong sometimes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

If you have a local E9x owner perhaps you can compare your pedal pads to theirs to assure the covers will fit.

[san]

If you have a local E9x owner perhaps you can compare your pedal pads to theirs to assure the covers will fit.

Good call


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AM1GO]

Does anyone know if this pedal set works on our cars?

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-stainless-steel-pedal-pads-35000410099

I’m getting conflicting information between websites so it’s unclear.



These are original e90 pedals. Straight out off the box it’s not compatible with the e46. But if you swap bases it’s totally compatible. You will need 5 point tamper proof torx plus bit to disassemble the pedals and swap bases.

Below is my son’s auto, but I have manual ready for a swap into my daily driver, little difference between manual and auto bases for e46.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221019/e2449fe9b0394c83728e0aa50eb97cee.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221019/d65f95f08b8142814e5b583240056c7b.jpg

That’s the modded manual accelerator pedal with original base waiting for the install into my manual ZHP.

It does work for an e82 1M without any mod if anyone is interested.

[san]

These are original e90 pedals. Straight out off the box it’s not compatible with the e46. But if you swap bases it’s totally compatible. You will need 5 point tamper proof torx plus bit to disassemble the pedals and swap bases.

Below is my son’s auto, but I have manual ready for a swap into my daily driver, little difference between manual and auto bases for e46.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221019/e2449fe9b0394c83728e0aa50eb97cee.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221019/d65f95f08b8142814e5b583240056c7b.jpg

That’s the modded manual accelerator pedal with original base waiting for the install into my manual ZHP.

It does work for an e82 1M without any mod if anyone is interested.

This is awesome info, thanks so much!

Very helpful…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AM1GO]

This is awesome info, thanks so much!

Very helpful…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When disassembling be careful sliding the pedal out of the base. Take your time and clean(wash) original base tracks off of dirt, if you don’t you may snap little tab holding it in. Not the end of the world and it would still hold but patience is a virtue.

A 50% IPA mix makes it easy to slip in rubber covers with metal shell on.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vas]

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement business radio faceplate? Pretty sure I saw someone recently replace it with a new one

[NYRhockey]

How easy is it to remove the storage cubbie below the radio and the ashtray/cover between the seats? Do they just pop out? both are broken in my zhp and need to get them fixed.

[John in VA]

How easy is it to remove the storage cubbie below the radio and the ashtray/cover between the seats? Do they just pop out? both are broken in my zhp and need to get them fixed.
The sunglasses cubby can sometimes be removed by putting your hand into the cubby, spreading your hand wide & pulling toward the front of the car.
Or you can take things apart: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhF-05g7xYU&ab_channel=E39Source and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhwjrN3Q-1g&t=232s&ab_channel=AutoRepairGuys

[pedro2u]

Storage cubby pops right out. Watch this at about the 1 min mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oD7FVmcN3_I

[NYRhockey]

thanks, folks. Will give it that a shot.

[NYRhockey]

Turns out it’s pretty simple to pull both out.

The storage cubby i just pulled straight out from the open lid and popped out no problem. The ashtray is just two screws after you pop out the piece that goes inside.

Now need to source some replacement parts. Went to a junkyard today but no luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NYRhockey]

Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pieces of black trim on the left side of the car? Thinking I can get cheaper at FCP Euro or the like.
BMW wants $950 for them which is BS.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221109/c165b8412649a197367ffd59e5328fca.jpg

[RUS_ZHP]

Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pieces of black trim on the left side of the car? Thinking I can get cheaper at FCP Euro or the like.
BMW wants $950 for them which is BS.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221109/c165b8412649a197367ffd59e5328fca.jpgI do not know that p/n, but Ebay is an option too, if used parts are fine with you.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pieces of black trim on the left side of the car? Thinking I can get cheaper at FCP Euro or the like.
BMW wants $950 for them which is BS.
Did you check on realoem.com for the part #s? FCP Euro is usually a bit more expensive than the dealers with online parts sales (such as getbmwparts.com, mybimmerparts.com, bmwoffairfaxparts.com) possibly to cover their lifetime replacement warranty.

[///Mark_D]

Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 pieces of black trim on the left side of the car? Thinking I can get cheaper at FCP Euro or the like.
BMW wants $950 for them which is BS.


https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-07-2004-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=51_3267

Numbers 9 and 12.

Front LH Gloss Black: 51332695283
Rear LH Gloss Black: 51342695289

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/gloss-shadowline-trim-left/51332695283/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/gloss-shadowline-trim-left/51342695289/

You could probably find them used for a lot cheaper, but you'd have to cut and polish them to remove all the scratches and swirls you typically would find.

[John in VA]

$295 & $160 from BMW of Fairfax (VA).
https://www.bmwoffairfaxparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-applique-51342695289

[NYRhockey]

Awesome. Thanks, folks.

I'll bookmark these and check during thanksgiving and see if there are any black friday sales.

[az3579]

Or the even cheaper route is to get a set of regular non-gloss ones and have them painted gloss black. Same result, much less cost.

[///Mark_D]

Or the even cheaper route is to get a set of regular non-gloss ones and have them painted gloss black. Same result, much less cost.

Yeah that's a good point. I plan to go this route on my wagon to convert it over from the stock matte black / polished trim to gloss shadowline. The full OEM set would be like $3,900 otherwise.

[NYRhockey]

Yeah that's a good point. I plan to go this route on my wagon to convert it over from the stock matte black / polished trim to gloss shadowline. The full OEM set would be like $3,900 otherwise.

I did a price comparison of flat vs gloss black trim for the 2 pieces i need and to my surprise flat was only $60 cheaper, which would easily be absorbed in having the shop paint them gloss black.

[az3579]

I did a price comparison of flat vs gloss black trim for the 2 pieces i need and to my surprise flat was only $60 cheaper, which would easily be absorbed in having the shop paint them gloss black.That's why you buy used...

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

Or the even cheaper route is to get a set of regular non-gloss ones and have them painted gloss black. Same result, much less cost.

I'll just buy new and be done . . . no need to buy used . . .

[az3579]

I'll just buy new and be done . . . no need to buy used . . .No need? I think the large quantities of money to be saved say otherwise. You get zero benefit going new with this part.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

No need? I think the large quantities of money to be saved say otherwise. You get zero benefit going new with this part.

You know me Botond :shifty

[Galapolis]

I got my full set used for $160. If new was my only option, I'd still be on matte trim to this day...

[NYRhockey]

I got my full set used for $160. If new was my only option, I'd still be on matte trim to this day...

where did you get it? part out from someone here? i've been to a couple junk yards and no luck

[Galapolis]

where did you get it? part out from someone here? i've been to a couple junk yards and no luck

Facebook marketplace a few years ago. I've gotten quite a few good deals on there and Craigslist, but you need a lot of patience (sometimes I hunt for parts for months).

[az3579]

where did you get it? part out from someone here? i've been to a couple junk yards and no luck

You've got to look for partouts. I know a guy who has parted several ZHPs; I'll ask him if he has those trims.

[BavarianZHP]

Going to drive across country next month and am planning on getting a TPMS set up with the head unit. Anyone know if intenal TPMS sensors are compatible with Style 135 wheels? Otherwise, I'll go the external route. Getting new tires installed a week before the trip too.

Update 12-14-2020: I got Michelin Pilot Sport AS 4's installed at Costco and they installed the internal TPMS sensors without any issues on the stock Style 135's. The Head unit is also reading them fine! The guy at the front desk complimented the car, then the guy moving tires did the same as I was making my way back, then the mechanic who handed me the paperwork said he only can wish his 2020 looks like mine when it gets to that age. :rofl They also did not charge me for the TPMS installation even though there's a service for it, even after I insisted. Thank you Costco Tire Center, appreciate the service.

[t.er]

Has anyone had clutch judder before having to replace it? Mine is original at ~226k miles, lately it's been juddering quite badly when engaging it from a stop and only when cold. After ~5-10 mins of driving, it disappears. I was thinking if somehow the RMS seeps overnight, but also with the car warm the oil is thinner and the leak would be worse.

[YoitsTmac]

I get clutch shudder when it’s cold and my revs are low, but that’s because I’m SMF

[Galapolis]

Has anyone had clutch judder before having to replace it? Mine is original at ~226k miles, lately it's been juddering quite badly when engaging it from a stop and only when cold. After ~5-10 mins of driving, it disappears. I was thinking if somehow the RMS seeps overnight, but also with the car warm the oil is thinner and the leak would be worse.

I've had clutch judder since I got the car at 110k miles and I'm at 183k now. Clutch still works, but the judder only appeared if I engaged the clutch "wrong" to begin with from standstill, never while driving (hard to pinpoint what wrong is but too slow is probably the closest explanation). Sounds like it judders while you drive too?

[Will]

wow, 226k on original clutch? maybe it's simply time for a new one.

[san]

Has anyone had clutch judder before having to replace it? Mine is original at ~226k miles, lately it's been juddering quite badly when engaging it from a stop and only when cold. After ~5-10 mins of driving, it disappears. I was thinking if somehow the RMS seeps overnight, but also with the car warm the oil is thinner and the leak would be worse.

I’ve had clutch judder since I bought the car when it had 95k miles. I’m at 212k now and it’s worse than it was back then but has nothing to do with engine/Tran being cold or ambient temps. It’s pretty consistent.
A friend of mine also bought a Zhp at the same time I did back then and his came with a new clutch and it was a night and day difference. No judder what so ever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[t.er]

I get clutch shudder when it’s cold and my revs are low, but that’s because I’m SMF


wow, 226k on original clutch? maybe it's simply time for a new one.


I’ve had clutch judder since I bought the car when it had 95k miles. I’m at 212k now and it’s worse than it was back then but has nothing to do with engine/Tran being cold or ambient temps. It’s pretty consistent.
A friend of mine also bought a Zhp at the same time I did back then and his came with a new clutch and it was a night and day difference. No judder what so ever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It still grabs super strong! I know BP made it to even higher mileage than that on the original one, so at least there's that data point. Until it starts having more severe symptoms, I'm gonna leave it *knock on wood*. Not sure whether I'll go Valeo SMF reading some of the stories here, but I for sure need a new DMF flywheel ($$$) if I do go the stock route


I've had clutch judder since I got the car at 110k miles and I'm at 183k now. Clutch still works, but the judder only appeared if I engaged the clutch "wrong" to begin with from standstill, never while driving (hard to pinpoint what wrong is but too slow is probably the closest explanation). Sounds like it judders while you drive too?

Mine is the opposite, engaging it at a "normal" speed makes it judder, but raising the revs a bit and engaging slower makes it better. It doesn't judder while driving, only starting in 1st from a standstill. Though I do have a small clunk if you shift poorly, which I suspect may be from the crappy ECS diff bushings that keep wanting to slip out of the subframe

[YoitsTmac]

It still grabs super strong! I know BP made it to even higher mileage than that on the original one, so at least there's that data point. Until it starts having more severe symptoms, I'm gonna leave it *knock on wood*. Not sure whether I'll go Valeo SMF reading some of the stories here, but I for sure need a new DMF flywheel ($$$) if I do go the stock route



Mine is the opposite, engaging it at a "normal" speed makes it judder, but raising the revs a bit and engaging slower makes it better. It doesn't judder while driving, only starting in 1st from a standstill. Though I do have a small clunk if you shift poorly, which I suspect may be from the crappy ECS diff bushings that keep wanting to slip out of the subframe

Oh my god the ECS diff bushings are such shit, I'm so sorry you find yourself with them. I know I certainly was. I checked the torque on it a few times and when I finally removed it, the hole for the rear bolt was a long oval :)

[t.er]

Oh my god the ECS diff bushings are such shit, I'm so sorry you find yourself with them. I know I certainly was. I checked the torque on it a few times and when I finally removed it, the hole for the rear bolt was a long oval :)

Did you have other issues aside from that? The front ones kept slipping forward, pushing the bolt head onto the aluminum guard that goes around the tail end of the driveshaft - this resulted in what I attributed to be severe scraping, but really it was just the noise of the diff directly transmitted to the body. This was the solution:

https://i.imgur.com/SNNXs5Nl.png

First and last time I go with ECS-branded parts. I should've just pressed OE bushings in

[YoitsTmac]

Did you have other issues aside from that? The front ones kept slipping forward, pushing the bolt head onto the aluminum guard that goes around the tail end of the driveshaft - this resulted in what I attributed to be severe scraping, but really it was just the noise of the diff directly transmitted to the body. This was the solution:

https://i.imgur.com/SNNXs5Nl.png

First and last time I go with ECS-branded parts. I should've just pressed OE bushings in

It was my first and last time with ECS parts as well. I had that issue too, of it hitting the aluminum cross member. But I had a nasty clunk from off throttle to WOT. For me, it happened nearly immediately. I didn't think it was the bushings at first because "they were just replaced." It was incredibly annoying. I spent hours and diagnosing and tons of cash replacing things simply because I was running out of places to look. I even saw the bushing bolt rubbing against eh carrier, but it didn't make sense for my symptoms. I digress. I eventually told myself "regardless of what I know about the age of the differential bushings, I will go to AKG like the subframe." My issue was fixed immediately.

Of course, recently I have developed a new rear end clunk that's not the differential bushings, and I can't find this one either.

[Galapolis]

Mine is the opposite, engaging it at a "normal" speed makes it judder, but raising the revs a bit and engaging slower makes it better. It doesn't judder while driving, only starting in 1st from a standstill. Though I do have a small clunk if you shift poorly, which I suspect may be from the crappy ECS diff bushings that keep wanting to slip out of the subframe

Oh OK sounds like your clutch is just in it's final 200k stretch of life, you might need to replace it in another decade or so. :)

[NYRhockey]

Does Colorchip paint expire? I have some left that is probably 5+ years old.

[John in VA]

Does Colorchip paint expire? I have some left that is probably 5+ years old.
If it's a bit dry add some paint thinner, drop by drop as you shake it up.

[John in VA]

Does Colorchip paint expire? I have some left that is probably 5+ years old.
If it's a bit dry add some paint thinner, drop by drop as you shake it up until it's like you like it.

[YoitsTmac]

Anyone have a RTAB tool I can rent?

[NYRhockey]

For those with experience listing at C&B/BAT, is there value in paying for professional photos? Full set of ~100 pictures is $250.

[fredo]

BaT has these 2 links in their Resources page. I think you can save those $250.

https://bringatrailer.com/bat-photography-10-tips-for-making-better-photos-of-your-car/

https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/1584980647d1165b6SellerShotList_Mobile.pdf

[NYRhockey]

BaT has these 2 links in their Resources page. I think you can save those $250.

https://bringatrailer.com/bat-photography-10-tips-for-making-better-photos-of-your-car/

https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/1584980647d1165b6SellerShotList_Mobile.pdf

Yea CB has something similar. Probably not worth paying. Nowadays even phone cameras are so good.

[NYRhockey]

What are people’s thoughts on reserve vs no reserve?

Sites will say no reserves get more activity but wonder if that’s the case.

[fredo]

Personally, I don't see a difference. If I'm interested in a car, I would bid no matter what (reserve or no reserve).

[t.er]

What are people’s thoughts on reserve vs no reserve?

Sites will say no reserves get more activity but wonder if that’s the case.

I think it's too much of a gamble with no reserve

[///Mark_D]

I would absolutely pay for professional photos. $250 is nothing compared to how much poor photos will hurt a listing. Doug Demuro has gone on several rants about this in various videos and podcasts. Pro photos bring value to the listing and the return is worth the small price. Realistically speaking it's about 1 bid.


Yes, you can take great photos with a phone, but professionals also have an eye for staging the car properly. You want to avoid distractions in the background, set up a location with good lighting conditions, etc. I think I'm a pretty decent photographer but there's something to be said about a pro that specializes in cars and knows how to capture them well.

[pedro2u]

When I sold my ZHP on BaT, I paid a local photographer to take the shots. There was no way I was going to get great shots and perfect lighting with my iPhone.... Phone cameras are good, but not that good. I think it was money well spent (and returned) https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-bmw-330ci-zhp-convertible-13/

Another note, I had an issue with BaT setting a reserve. I requested what I thought was a reasonable number, and they came back and low balled me. It took a few days to negotiate with them to get to a number we settled on... I knew it would make it to the reserve. But it can be nerve racking to have the market tell you what your car is worth!

[NYRhockey]

Thanks guys for the feedback.

Of the 2 bid sites, i am leaning towards C&B.

[YoitsTmac]

Professional photos are always worth it. I used to keep all the data sheets. The two biggest points were the following: brighter photos are more visually attractive and when you see a visually pleasing photo, you consider it more valuable. You can really think of anything...a roll of tape at the floor of your desk vs a roll of tape advertised on a website well lit and all. You'll also notice in the link above the black car was rather bright. Also professional photos can enhance the gloss and the like to look as good as something truly is.

Also I agree BaT just straight up brings more dollars per car. When I look at ZHPs alone, that's the correlation I see.

[pedro2u]

Thanks guys for the feedback.

Of the 2 bid sites, i am leaning towards C&B.

I think of BaT as the sellers marketplace, and C&B as the buyer's marketplace. Prices can be lower on C&B in my opinion.

So I bought my M3 on C&B, but sold my ZHP on BaT. Just my perspective

[t.er]

Anyone know if an M54 valve cover gasket can be used with an M56 valve cover? Just found a good deal on the VC off eBay, but I just did the VCG recently. If it is I may swap it, if it isn't I guess the VC will just sit around for a while until I decide my CCV needs to be replaced

[YoitsTmac]

Anyone know if an M54 valve cover gasket can be used with an M56 valve cover? Just found a good deal on the VC off eBay, but I just did the VCG recently. If it is I may swap it, if it isn't I guess the VC will just sit around for a while until I decide my CCV needs to be replaced

It does not seem to be interchangeable

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=AZ33-USA-12-2004-E46-BMW-325i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3102&q=11127521009&series=E46

[t.er]

It does not seem to be interchangeable

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=AZ33-USA-12-2004-E46-BMW-325i&mg=11&sg=15&diagId=11_3102&q=11127521009&series=E46Yeah, looking at some pics online it seems the "channel" for the M54 VCG is non-existent with the M56 VC. Looks like this part will sit in the stash for a while

[Will]

I'm about to change front brakes and I see various options on FCP Euro.

Wondering if anyone has experience with the various front pads:

Textar: $69.99
ATE (607155) : $55.99
ATE (34113404362): $52.99
Jurid (571994J): $37.89

Tempted to go with Jurid (they're OE fronts for the e46m3).

[az3579]

I'm about to change front brakes and I see various options on FCP Euro.

Wondering if anyone has experience with the various front pads:

Textar: $69.99
ATE (607155) : $55.99
ATE (34113404362): $52.99
Jurid (571994J): $37.89

Tempted to go with Jurid (they're OE fronts for the e46m3).


I went Ceramic and never looked back. The Akebonos are fantastic in that regard. Excellent braking performance and almost no dust.

[san]

I'm about to change front brakes and I see various options on FCP Euro.

Wondering if anyone has experience with the various front pads:

Textar: $69.99
ATE (607155) : $55.99
ATE (34113404362): $52.99
Jurid (571994J): $37.89

Tempted to go with Jurid (they're OE fronts for the e46m3).

I think I went with Jurid (if I’m remembering correctly).
They stop really well, but they create a lot of brake dust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

Wondering about low dust pads too. Has nobody tried Textar?

[Will]

I went Ceramic and never looked back. The Akebonos are fantastic in that regard. Excellent braking performance and almost no dust.

I had the Akebono ceramics on my m3 for a few thousand miles, ended up replacing them with Jurid fronts and Textar rears (OE combo). Loved the fact they don't dust, but the trade off in lack of bite and feel was unacceptable for me. I tried them because many on the old m3forums touted them. I guess I have different perspective and preferences.


I think I went with Jurid (if I’m remembering correctly).
They stop really well, but they create a lot of brake dust.


Awesome, thanks for your feedback. I don't mind the brake dust.

[Will]

Does anyone have experience with these Chinese made center armrest lids? Link (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284835045560?hash=item42517de0b8:g:2-sAAOSwDApiN-mS&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4J9Nmkb9P5Ec3x2hNBRYUd%2BcRlA DbRBJr9pBLS32VgSQWdpi3j1ALQJJVFWSKVwBxKop7mlUbXcls ld50ugGe%2B7fmRmvA9NfW2iVRiUua2rruCQJxKacUrgHoSyHV YpJ6DnECjYdJeMTxxzHnENbVGGoSmgeTN%2BRWLAejTG4938ia 4ZoI0jazgR9cjQwO4H9zsP4PudZ8NNK6XwdWAaFkPnf4ITIIfK l7bBKQ8xzMuzfVAQQ%2FPAlzWe35U2frE5bMdqMWFjX2Zaco2m jqHlyRqnHQ3D4s82mubR2z5%2FNWn7T%7Ctkp%3ABFBM0tD6qd ph)

I know the leather quality will probably be crap, but the plastic hinge / "ears" on mine has broken.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2-sAAOSwDApiN-mS/s-l1600.jpg

[///Mark_D]

I bought one of those reproduction armrests on ebay a while back. Not the greatest quality and the leather feels kinda rubbery. The stitching pattern did not match my original arm rest either, and the gray color was about two shades too dark.

I decided to go another route on my interior after picking up some natural brown seats, so I had my local upholstery shop reupholster a black armrest with some natural brown leather that I scavenged from a parts car rear seat armrest.

If you are looking for a replacement in the standard colors (black, beige, or gray) there are a few good used ones I've seen on ebay, just make sure you are actually buying an OEM one. Otherwise if you're picky and have the money to spend, it might be worth it to you to buy a new one. It's a commonly touched part of the car that is front and center when you look at the interior.

In my case since they never made a natural brown armrest, using OEM leather and reskinning an original armrest was the best route for me. Shoutout to Manda Marie Upholstery who did an excellent job on the reupholstery. https://www.mandamarieuph.com/

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39714&d=1678809702

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39715&d=1678809713

Here was the leather I provided along with the donor armrest. The rear seat flip down armrest had perfectly preserved leather on the inner surface that never saw sunlight, and I just treated it with some leatherique to soften it up a little before handing everything over.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39716&d=1678810023

[Will]

Thanks for that thorough reply, Mark. That upholstery work looks fantastic, and great idea to use the inside surface of the rear armrest!

Initially I was thinking of buying a cheap Chinese one and transfer my current leather onto it since I just need to replace the plastic hinges. But I ended up finding one locally on Offerup. I'll still swap the leather covers though as mine's in better shape.

Your armrest looks great.

[///Mark_D]

Thanks, glad to hear you were able to find a used one to swap over your leather cover. Should be pretty straightforward to swap, you just need to pry out the two plugs in the plastic cover on the inside of the lid to access the screws. Those plugs are a pain to get out without damaging the actual cover. After struggling for a while I finally just slit them with a razor blade and then pried them out with a screwdriver from the middle. The plugs are still available new if you have to destroy the old ones to get them out. PN 51168228760 and are a couple of bucks each. After removing the lid release button at the front, the rest off the leather is just held on with glue around the edges.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39717&d=1678894659


More pics here too if you're interested.
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/marks-s54-touring-build.1244247/page-15#post-19018937

[Will]

Thanks, Mark! Great resources.
I'll be doing that this week / weekend.

[Will]

Update, I swapped the leather covers on the armrest tonight.

The new armrest lid on the left and the old lid on the right
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AhlKJy1zWnKEtHBL6b3LO61AOa-n4Dw3aJYC1hs24xt1c0jYU2CFv9Fc6kMOQcsruYxTF2N-01XOi-Xq909MMasrqd7Dg3CC1w2hmZ5E7VG_BPkk3ZRWPf9OgtjnIUzs mNypk7smP8BqZQrupXIEv2=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

Removing the leather cover
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8DfSOjaym3tESjtwCVEh1RLAze_tq7a6ZE749v7f1f0KO 7Dridcw_YdtXTgi7iYSEnxLETPWazwwCqV7ip-1WsLh9Y8H61HSsTdnbMBoh1DS_motQJiK6G2-m6qRdRI_cU5r_oqro4CUSGb51HuqWEc=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

Cleaning off the old glue
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8B2ew5uixgzUxyk8bfsu-hqQ_JmV7VsPKEaKYmAzCSKjeEaNXhAxoGDr0phGkkhbCJ2VG7m 9KTAJzGVkUidS5-0R9m-t44s3ERbPaiZYR-9v3RVAPpDRsA88pMrs17Rc9-IAq3Hf0_yWRZK0aTHy8_Q=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

Getting ready to glue the leather to the new lid
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8C82BXbv8ppWZDPed6fUGNEmjg2baUgcyPPl942_P2uRv Vwltz7pqnK_VYmumEyjOK6NfC3uoCtHzgoFKRTlwpU8hkwME1L zM8xtK4gUzgQUmwvNkk-70KRmc8TGvw7lsYe5tdU45n85Ln1EFH5P6h3=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

Finished.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8ArDRXd8A7Zw7Vz6tSMrT_oFFEbrCze_xryUxX3l46Y8n _o2uNdV2_qAGvNmQdgrVPoAzf6k8HsI_-enz1W9Wf71t4kPuQkFuKEqD65dHzq5cVtfcZelTN2upYRZx_pD CBWh6mHUCdpEqimh3uHxH4b=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Bl-mpsq5LhtgYQ07rbeqrYWo79RUjzWEa_BqTizUZfPkIK0TQvmJM _HJ--WH5sy8teTNbLrpA5LxlWEWqAUWSMPFoexjlqi9tULo0SFhurrV 35esIlII7TY6RjCVpxGU3hWFS77XvYHpDjeYdHoCKN=w800-h600-no?authuser=0

About 3 hours start to finish. Most of it was spent cleaning off the old dried glue by using my steamer and scraper.

Thanks for the pointers and the thread you linked to, Mark. It was a big help.

[///Mark_D]

Wow that turned out great, nice work!

[alexandre]

Wondering about low dust pads too. Has nobody tried Textar?

My old car had Textar rear pads for ~6 years (nothing special, just whatever part is the OE equivalent). Definitely seemed less dusty than my Jurid fronts but they also get a lot less usage.

[Will]

My old car had Textar rear pads for ~6 years (nothing special, just whatever part is the OE equivalent). Definitely seemed less dusty than my Jurid fronts but they also get a lot less usage.

Same. My zhp has Textars on the rear. No complaints. They're good quality OE replacements, imo.

[san]

What type of alternator does the Zhp have?
I’m seeing 90 vs. 120 amp and 2 pin vs. 3 pin on fcp and it says they all fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

What type of alternator does the Zhp have?
I’m seeing 90 vs. 120 amp and 2 pin vs. 3 pin on fcp and it says they all fit.

Looks like they came with both:
Exch. compact alternator 90A 12317501687
Exch. compact alternator 120A VALEO 12317501599 ENDED
Exch. compact alternator 120A BOSCH 12317501690

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-09-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=12_1082

[t.er]

What type of alternator does the Zhp have?
I’m seeing 90 vs. 120 amp and 2 pin vs. 3 pin on fcp and it says they all fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think an easy way to check was whether it had a duct or not. Mine didn't and had the rounder plug.

FWIW try swapping just the voltage regulator first, seems to have done me and a bunch of e46f guys the trick rather than replacing the whole thing

[san]

Looks like they came with both:
Exch. compact alternator90A12317501687
Exch. compact alternator120A VALEO 12317501599 ENDED
Exch. compact alternator120A BOSCH 12317501690

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-09-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=12_1082

Thanks John.
Some folks seemed to have bad experience with Bosch alternators, especially remanufactured ones. Maybe Valeo is the way to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

I think an easy way to check was whether it had a duct or not. Mine didn't and had the rounder plug.

FWIW try swapping just the voltage regulator first, seems to have done me and a bunch of e46f guys the trick rather than replacing the whole thing

Ah my car doesn’t have the duct either.
I’ve thought of replacing just the voltage regulator but at 215k miles and nearly 18 years old, I’m thinking might as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Thanks John.
Some folks seemed to have bad experience with Bosch alternators, especially remanufactured ones. Maybe Valeo is the way to go.
Yeah, Bosch has gone downhill over the past decade - I'd imagine a Bosch rebuild might be iffy, but should come with a warranty. See if you can get your eyes on the plug - maybe that will solve the mystery.

[Galapolis]

Have a buddy who works for Bosch in Germany and he says all they do is cut costs all day. I made the mistake of buying a Bosch coil that ended up lasting 3 WEEKS. Replaced it with an actual quality part and haven't had issues since. I would avoid Bosch at all costs.

[PdZHP]

I've replaced my 90v with a 120v remanufactured Duralast alternator. It was less expensive than the 90v with lifetime warranty. It's been a year with no issues.

[Will]

Ah my car doesn’t have the duct either.
I’ve thought of replacing just the voltage regulator but at 215k miles and nearly 18 years old, I’m thinking might as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe this place, Maniac Electric Motors, has applicable parts (link (https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/alternator-rebuild-kits-regulator-brushes-bearings.html)). I don't have experience with them, but might try one of their rebuild kits.

[san]

Is Rein a good option for power steering hoses?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

Is Rein a good option for power steering hoses?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NO

@ZHPizza can confirm

[san]

NO

@ZHPizza can confirm

What else would you recommend ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

What else would you recommend ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Genuine BMW is the only other option unfortunately.

[san]

Genuine BMW is the only other option unfortunately.

Ya, not seeing any other options. Anyway, thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

NO

@ZHPizza can confirm

What was the actual issue in using Rein power steering hoses? Just curious to know the discussion that was had regarding use of Rein power steering hoses...

I found this discussion and with exception of the high pressure power steering hose, the use of Rein hoses was okay.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?12618-power-steering-hoses-reservoir-3rd-party-brands&highlight=rein+power+steering+hose

[Galapolis]

I believe for ZHPizza the hoses collapsed soon after installation. For me they started leaking soon after installation. Quality is simply bad on Rein parts.

[cakM3]

I believe for ZHPizza the hoses collapsed soon after installation. For me they started leaking soon after installation. Quality is simply bad on Rein parts.

Gotcha. Thanks :thumbsup

[ZHPizza]

I think mine made it 8 months but basically disintegrated and collapsed. I remember getting on FCP Euro and seeing similar feedback in the reviews. This was a few years ago though they may have fixed it since then.

@san if you're willing to risk doing the job twice FCP did of course make good on their warranty and gave me credit towards the genuine BMW hose when I said I wanted that instead of more Rein trash.

[cakM3]

I think mine made it 8 months but basically disintegrated and collapsed. I remember getting on FCP Euro and seeing similar feedback in the reviews. This was a few years ago though they may have fixed it since then.

Thanks for chiming in on this.

[san]

For folks that got fuel injector cleaning done, would you recommend it? I’ve heard pros and cons, with some saying it brought back lost performance and the other side saying it does more harm than good…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Will]

For folks that got fuel injector cleaning done, would you recommend it? I’ve heard pros and cons, with some saying it brought back lost performance and the other side saying it does more harm than good…


If the car has >150k miles then it's prob worth it, in my opinion. The upsides are the injectors will be balanced and spraying as it should be, and the performance maximized. The downside is you might find an injector that's beyond cleaning and require replacement - this I see as an upside, too.

There was a guy on the forums, "MEPEH," that was doing it for people. I had it done on the m3 at around 160k, he sent me before and afters. It's nice to have objective data to confirm the difference.

Prices seemed to have gone up quite a bit in the last few years. RC Injectors are now $29 each. InjectorRX.com is about $22 each.

Before, looks like all but #2 was low:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PsZxKbc9b0B3GrsHx8ETuUVPhHJh4lul9j8CpvWgzqBPz9lBc7-v6GhMO1IfwsyHvRLjU5kXzGM3BIm9YHZzN4m3iKWmoDEcmZhPv _BOQjkrA3MdvyRYbX-9E9RgXFIQPI0UMBEjQY8InkqNm5GPV8EOCmtc2TtD7enanbi2q ORLyXjlC4JrI5ZpRQToK0TRsOGmCNe9lhW84tpo0nK2UuvKtLV 6YqFo2qkStmXfkfcYiPBkbqs5jYgAd42_10t0CxTbjY027S4jZ fNDeIlxmfLNPqiZQqQiiwMW6y-zOK9WouqfySN8qwGKzQihQsnhAHLdtI3mOS1aCWEIsf8Dvxr8M 6VW5geLfk0Hdb-reIbK6gNn2wzGBrH9iCLmwlNSTVkKxMO-vnu71_fHxqnY5Ld_augvTRPLfzQZoXj7QHJfb6jDw25-0iw8S5A0QmjaXV7ZREBkfqfg5a8pkRlQa9sk4OSQEKX6ejqty5 jA2cae8n5n_1aSbu22PM9oUPwHvWX7vPazlqb7oRKt2g8rMTBG dRVGNh9ieo28-0AQCRa9FgvNGYrPqpgeRYO9HtiIMIuNhAuAO02w-Iu-AD7GTDbRT0mqWg5O78X53pf1KCNnfRaQIv5WUlVTVPreAvs6qV yiVEox-cuGzBCRSfr4TGSwmoPzqeXd6bunBe7dtONzM9rEDu0ewBQTTcV 2buDsyj81phidh2Ai1jRVWLQA3CTso4qnMZw8Sf4KRrGYhCEu5 _gyljuVjLNpp53KSPlpPcyAaNuVjS1oX3gLU6iHI2AcbfOKWsw dq2GNZCaulfZjk0E_ipIOWNzIAqHJLR9HcwAaVoTN9I5PRF0Pi wFtggJmTei4ildE-S5OAEPl0C3Xfc-JjIczT2aT4FrZF64RwAyDI6qggeU23fybXAwgJQ0ULuTHZ3X9p huK7__CT6uHwPkz=w800-h600-s-no?authuser=0


After, not perfect, but much better:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pchva00P081qphRJJL-jkzhpE4t4Ux4shItrn1CX4UjrIGNUWFssD8ydYWQHBL_xFyd4Z 6_gfnUdIVxeouf4H2q5e62wjP36OBdTbPDiFihgBCc-_Z0TJHkVTrOPem5SGftiyM2tsT96nJEYfJRIkHsEXowD1UYQ6g yDroiviEaSsgPVpeAkmk2iC_P4WtJ8G1VPHhqsYiU0tWypwumz ft4oybFwMC1dczwO_oqQpJPQlpM8JudfAnJ-NKcDU540CQ7OD7txuJYIfjKjgs16s_HSinqdZ2LOh_psxzSoZd pyLsFkaxq4NYPi6fW6JPSeasXlylQVpFe9IxveVb2vsQMpUdEX 0X2zTVq_1IDHMfft6IwsmIrnh2Sruga17dqQjqljWnYanH0wgS H_o_HC_TxGxu-9eiiFWyh9yrTB_r-MHJKPV6SSPoFC82Dp5OkgtRchbot-vQO5Z1Txy-uM42m2RzCOYsED-yTTYymdkuzZQvoHoy1l7DW003JHP-6IHBfKVySmKp_ksLkrGREvfH6ipR9yeDqVpzdHRrYCfF2-pZ7Afiejh-8drSVlKdMt3d7rc6X3CbgGRE-zcPJI4PJX0rMk8TD2FWBmYMdhpLQoOEy-844iZPFokTuLmUlwE-goFsb5InIV7bTpePUbOuU7fxBxCd1JMiFLB7pfZKiuHD3qQps0 fbRXkZVuTykw173U46KqgBon-q1USmK7-h8Mb_GJ8shfOrVUnNsEBfEqv2NAuXqBo6BzqjikNDGXqWFKTtv bVOUgMBqmVWQg0zWNp0S2__dp5l3caU9jJdQ8mXHCrN2BjNb-PKk6KW5xedBgy-UD_4zsUxEyKHMGFG8Lb-JXquOXPRph2n_Q7JXBYdQ6_7o_d3wsBqV0fmi6tvksUhHYJ2Gh HSjlUOEBdt2yLc-EwBTYg7avMdnCSpGBKbpa=w800-h600-s-no?authuser=0

I'm not sure how the different providers compare. For $5 each, I was pretty happy with the outcome. I can't seem to find him anymore.

[san]

Thanks Will!
I’m inclined to get them refurbished since I’m at 215k miles for the reasons you mentioned. But just trying understand if there are any negative reasons that I haven’t thought of and so far the only complaint I’ve heard from some folks is possibility of injectors leaking post refurb…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BADCLOWN]

What all is needed to swap an S54 into our cars the best way possible? front to rear bumper, whats the best way to make that swap work.

[Will]

What all is needed to swap an S54 into our cars the best way possible? front to rear bumper, whats the best way to make that swap work.

I'm not sure, but user "nextelbuddy" on nam3forum.com has a great example of what you're talking about. Maybe he has a build page in his post history (link (https://nam3forum.com/forums/member/777-nextelbuddy)).

https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=222496&d=1687239707




User Bry5on has a great example. Wagon, too!

(link to build page (https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/member-build-journals/195928-black-tan-332it))

https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=195930&d=1670813853



Edit:
Here's another s54 engine swap thread, maybe it'll have some more info:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/member-build-journals/173296-trent-s-s54-rebuild-and-sedan-swap


https://nam3forum.com/forums/filedata/fetch?id=220736

[cakM3]

What all is needed to swap an S54 into our cars the best way possible? front to rear bumper, whats the best way to make that swap work.

Jacob, nextelbuddy is Shawn Robertson. Reach out to him and he should be able to tell you all that is needed for an S54 swap. He has done this a few times so he's a very reliable resource of knowledge.

[GeorgeH]

What all is needed to swap an S54 into our cars the best way possible? front to rear bumper, whats the best way to make that swap work.

How complete do you want it to be? If you want it to be an as close of an M3 replica than IMO you have to by an M3 to donate all of its bits. If you just want an S54 then you can get away with piecing it together. *This is in regards to everything BUT the body work.

This is 99% of the parts for an S54 conversion the way I do them.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXERewHL3N_/

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52171720911_172ec3dba7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nueGZv)

[fredo]

Hi, George. That's a good drone pic. :thumbsup

[BADCLOWN]

How complete do you want it to be? If you want it to be an as close of an M3 replica than IMO you have to by an M3 to donate all of its bits. If you just want an S54 then you can get away with piecing it together. *This is in regards to everything BUT the body work.

This is 99% of the parts for an S54 conversion the way I do them.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXERewHL3N_/

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52171720911_172ec3dba7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2nueGZv)


Thanks for the response. I’ll send you a message privately on IG

[san]

Does anyone where the black internal torx screw, that looks like the DISA valve screw, only shorter goes in and around the intake manifold?

I’m struggling to upload pictures using Tapatalk for some reason, but basically it’s a small black internal torx screw that I removed when I was replacing the coolant lines under the intake manifold it I cannot seems to remember where it goes now.

It’s this screw-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-torx-bolt-with-washer-m6x10-11611708274

Thanks in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Does anyone where the black internal torx screw, that looks like the DISA valve screw, only shorter goes in and around the intake manifold?

I’m struggling to upload pictures using Tapatalk for some reason, but basically it’s a small black internal torx screw that I removed when I was replacing the coolant lines under the intake manifold it I cannot seems to remember where it goes now.

It’s this screw-

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-torx-bolt-with-washer-m6x10-11611708274

Thanks in advance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you remove any of the metal brackets that attach various things to the manifold? I took my manifold off the other week, the only place I remember encountering internal torx on mine were on the 3-4 brackets, and there were 2 different head sizes if I remember right (T25 and T30?)

[san]

Did you remove any of the metal brackets that attach various things to the manifold? I took my manifold off the other week, the only place I remember encountering internal torx on mine were on the 3-4 brackets, and there were 2 different head sizes if I remember right (T25 and T30?)

Yup, this one’s a T30.
I did remove the brackets and as far as I can see, they’re all fastened down and held in place.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Yup, this one’s a T30.
I did remove the brackets and as far as I can see, they’re all fastened down and held in place.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm, I’ll take a look in the morning and see if I can spot any hidden ones. Mine’s still off the car.

[san]

Hmm, I’ll take a look in the morning and see if I can spot any hidden ones. Mine’s still off the car.

Thanks a lot!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Thanks a lot!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay sorry for the delay. I see 3 fine thread T30s

-2 below the throttle body facing upward
-1 to the right of the ICV, it attaches the bracket that holds the “sucking jet pump” thing on the brake booster hose

The other 4 torx I see are coarse thread and smaller than T30.

[san]

Okay sorry for the delay. I see 3 fine thread T30s

-2 below the throttle body facing upward
-1 to the right of the ICV, it attaches the bracket that holds the “sucking jet pump” thing on the brake booster hose

The other 4 torx I see are coarse thread and smaller than T30.

Hmm, I’m not missing those…
I had to remove the intake again today (dropped the cylinder 6 fuel injector between firewall and engine, got stuck right next to the starter) and didn’t see any missing screws.
I think I’ll just leave it in my lost and found box and hope that my car doesn’t miss it.
Thanks again Spenser!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Hmm, I’m not missing those…
I had to remove the intake again today (dropped the cylinder 6 fuel injector between firewall and engine, got stuck right next to the starter) and didn’t see any missing screws.
I think I’ll just leave it in my lost and found box and hope that my car doesn’t miss it.
Thanks again Spenser!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dropping things into the abyss is so frustrating!

While you have that apart let me ask you: are the metal spring clip doo-dads that hold the O2 sensor wires to the fuel rail all rusted up on your car? I’m addressing some rusty hardware while I have stuff taken apart and those 2 things look particularly bad…but since they’re just raw metal with no coating I’m assuming they get crusty on everyone’s car.

[san]

Dropping things into the abyss is so frustrating!

While you have that apart let me ask you: are the metal spring clip doo-dads that hold the O2 sensor wires to the fuel rail all rusted up on your car? I’m addressing some rusty hardware while I have stuff taken apart and those 2 things look particularly bad…but since they’re just raw metal with no coating I’m assuming they get crusty on everyone’s car.

Let me send you some pics over text, since I can’t upload them via Tapatalk…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Does the vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator line and F connector need to be something special, or will any vacuum hose be sufficient since it’s only fuel vapor and not direct fuel contact?

[san]

Does the vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator line and F connector need to be something special, or will any vacuum hose be sufficient since it’s only fuel vapor and not direct fuel contact?

I bought it from fcp euro (genuine Bmw) and it’s just a regular rubber hose from what I saw…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

I bought it from fcp euro (genuine Bmw) and it’s just a regular rubber hose from what I saw…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, that confirms what I saw when searching the part number I got off RealOEM. That short section of flexible line on my car has a different texture than normal vacuum hose—it’s the same as the flexible bit on the purge valve lines. I’m assuming it’s factory original, and that it was “fuel rated,” but there’s no text or anything.

[san]

Thanks, that confirms what I saw when searching the part number I got off RealOEM. That short section of flexible line on my car has a different texture than normal vacuum hose—it’s the same as the flexible bit on the purge valve lines. I’m assuming it’s factory original, and that it was “fuel rated,” but there’s no text or anything.

Let me see if it says anything on the hose. I’ll send you a pic if I find anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Anyone have experience with the Üro aluminum PS pump pulley? My pulley is cracked, that aluminum one is the same price on Amazon as a Febi plastic one from FCP.

[t.er]

Anyone have experience with the Üro aluminum PS pump pulley? My pulley is cracked, that aluminum one is the same price on Amazon as a Febi plastic one from FCP.Installed mine in 2017 and no problems so far. I did both that and the water pump pulley

[704sw]

Installed mine in 2017 and no problems so far. I did both that and the water pump pulley

Awesome thanks, I know üro stuff is typically frowned upon so I was hesitant.

[Will]

Installed mine in 2017 and no problems so far. I did both that and the water pump pulley


Awesome thanks, I know üro stuff is typically frowned upon so I was hesitant.

That's good to know, t.er.

Avoid the Uro trunk struts. I tried them and I thought they were going to rip the trunk off the hinge; opened far too forcefully. Only took one opening for me to toss them in the trash and order Stabilus.

[704sw]

That's good to know, t.er.

Avoid the Uro trunk struts. I tried them and I thought they were going to rip the trunk off the hinge; opened far too forcefully. Only took one opening for me to toss them in the trash and order Stabilus.

That’s good to know also, because I’m going to need hood struts pretty soon. I’ll just assume they’d be the same as the trunk experience you had.

[John in VA]

That’s good to know also, because I’m going to need hood struts pretty soon. I’ll just assume they’d be the same as the trunk experience you had.
Replaced the trunk struts on the 2003 530i with a pair of Stabilus from FCP Euro - the originals only lasted 20 years, so with their lifetime replacement warranty I should be good!

[704sw]

Replaced the trunk struts on the 2003 530i with a pair of Stabilus from FCP Euro - the originals only lasted 20 years, so with their lifetime replacement warranty I should be good!

It’s reassuring to hear multiple positive firsthand experiences with Stabilus. If the only good option had been $72/ea. for OE hood struts I’d just drive around with a 4’ wooden dowel in the trunk.

[t.er]

Yeah I was weary too but I figured they couldn't mess up a small hunk of formed metal! :rofl

[John in VA]

Yeah I was wary too but I figured they couldn't mess up a small hunk of formed metal! :rofl
Fixed that for you!

[BMWCurves]

Does anyone have any good recommendations on brands for an outdoor/all weather car cover? I have moved to NYC and am storing my car at my folks' place likely for at least a year before I can figure out a better (and cost effective) storage solution

[704sw]

Is there a creative way of retrieving something from the bottom of the DME/brake booster compartment abyss? I dropped one of the DME cover torx screws and can’t locate it even with the plastic heat shield thing removed.

Or do i just consider it a sacrifice to the Bimmer gods and get a replacement next time I’m in the junkyard?

[az3579]

Is there a creative way of retrieving something from the bottom of the DME/brake booster compartment abyss? I dropped one of the DME cover torx screws and can’t locate it even with the plastic heat shield thing removed.

Or do i just consider it a sacrifice to the Bimmer gods and get a replacement next time I’m in the junkyard?I usually just poke around one of those extending magnets till it picks it up.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

Bendy magnet:

https://www.grainger.com/product/MAG-MATE-Magnetic-Pickup-Bendable-35T090

[704sw]

I usually just poke around one of those extending magnets till it picks it up.

I’ll keep trying, my cheapo harbor freight magnet’s swivel head has gotten really loose and folds over with a gentle breeze making it pretty useless.


Bendy magnet:

https://www.grainger.com/product/MAG-MATE-Magnetic-Pickup-Bendable-35T090

Now we’re talking, that looks awesome.

[BADCLOWN]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding? I really want to swap out the textured plastic for painted.

[fredo]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding?

No, I don't think so.

[John in VA]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding? I really want to swap out the textured plastic for painted.
Like Fredo said, but I've seen painted trim on a sedan & it looked great.

[3ZHP]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding? I really want to swap out the textured plastic for painted.

The moldings are completely different and I don’t believe they are interchangeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[das boots]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding? I really want to swap out the textured plastic for painted.

I had mine painted by paint shop when I had front bumpers repainted due to road rash. Front, Side & Rear moldings. Although it was cheaper (labor) to provide new moldings than having old molding since I tried to do my own painting and they started to peel. They do a complete prep prior to painting. Moldings are affordable with inner retainer clips. They look fantastic.

[BADCLOWN]

The moldings are completely different and I don’t believe they are interchangeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So the moldings that come on a ZHP are different than a regular sedan?

I’ll have to look on google images and see

[cakM3]

Did the ZHP sedan ever come with painted door and bumper molding? I really want to swap out the textured plastic for painted.

Jacob, sedans never got the painted trim moldings that coupes and vents got. You have to prep and paint them to match if you want to have painted on moldings on sedan.

[BADCLOWN]

Good to know, thanks to all that responded

[papa_g]

Anyone here ever used RTV on transmission pan gasket?
I’m still leaking after a 2nd gasket change, despite diligently cleaning the mating surfaces and torquing properly.
Prepared for the possibility that it’s a warped pan (not sure how that would’ve happened though).

I bought new parts and want this to be the last time I change it…

[YoitsTmac]

What battery do people like? I’m using the Oreillys battery and have had my second failure in 2.5 years. Battery is at 12.0-12.2 after sitting for about 16 hours.

[John in VA]

What battery do people like? I’m using the Oreillys battery and have had my second failure in 2.5 years. Battery is at 12.0-12.2 after sitting for about 16 hours.
Interstate AGM H7 or H8 from Costco.

[t.er]

What battery do people like? I’m using the Oreillys battery and have had my second failure in 2.5 years. Battery is at 12.0-12.2 after sitting for about 16 hours.

You sure you don't have a small drain somewhere?

My OEM battery is from 2014 and is still strong. I am not going to pre-emptively replace it, I have AAA if things go wrong :rofl

[Galapolis]

What battery do people like? I’m using the Oreillys battery and have had my second failure in 2.5 years. Battery is at 12.0-12.2 after sitting for about 16 hours.

I'm using the Antigravity ATX-30. Been very happy with it.

[sillieidiot]

I'm running the Interstate H5 AGM battery. It's the Mini Cooper size, since that was what they used in the CSL.

[YoitsTmac]

Thanks guys. I’m going with the interstate from Costco :) never been this excited about a damn car battery

[NorCalZman]

I'm running the Interstate H5 AGM battery. It's the Mini Cooper size, since that was what they used in the CSL.

is AGM the battery tech that is not good if the car sits for a long time? My car can go weeks without me driving it.

[sillieidiot]

is AGM the battery tech that is not good if the car sits for a long time? My car can go weeks without me driving it.

Don't think so. AGM has a low discharge rate. My car would last ~3 weeks between starts. I think it could go longer if I had a normal sized battery tbh. My car is on a tender nowadays since I just drive the Tesla everywhere.

[ZHPizza]

I'm using the Antigravity ATX-30. Been very happy with it.Antigrav gang WHATUP

My car has been sitting since you left the country, so the battery is def dead. Can't wait to just push the restart button and drive lol

[san]

Interstate AGM H7 or H8 from Costco.

Do AGM batteries need venting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

I'm running the Interstate H5 AGM battery. It's the Mini Cooper size, since that was what they used in the CSL.

Have you had any issues with running H5 size?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Do AGM batteries need venting?

Yes.

[san]

Yes.

John, can you share a picture of how the interstate AGM battery needs to be vented? I went to Costco yesterday to purchase one but the guy at the store wasn’t sure and I saw multiple ports which looked like they could be vent ports.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

John, can you share a picture of how the interstate AGM battery needs to be vented? I went to Costco yesterday to purchase one but the guy at the store wasn’t sure and I saw multiple ports which looked like they could be vent ports.
There are typically a pair of plugs at opposite ends at the edge of the top of the battery. In our trunk you'd use the one closest to the positive terminal. Here's an example: https://hhstuning.com/products/interstate-mtx-94r-h7

[san]

There are typically a pair of plugs at opposite ends at the edge of the top of the battery. In our trunk you'd use the one closest to the positive terminal. Here's an example: https://hhstuning.com/products/interstate-mtx-94r-h7

Thanks John, that helps!

So for the vent hole on the negative side, do you leave it as is or plug it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Thanks John, that helps!
So for the vent hole on the negative side, do you leave it as is or plug it?
Plug the vent hole you're not using.

[JPMo]

Anyone have any insight, a DIY or just general advice on replacing the rear fixed glass seal on a sedan. It’s completely dry rotted and falling apart.

I see it done on coupes but no info on sedans.

Attached photo below. You can see the cracked rubber surrounding the window is like 98% missing. 40046


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Do any of you have these drain plugs for their oil pan?

https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/1834y0a/first_time_seeing_one_of_these_in_the_wild/

[BADCLOWN]

Anybody have info on or know somebody that has retrofitted s54 throttle bodies to an M54 and then ran the S54 BMWP (or after market equal) intake? Is this even possible?

[GeorgeH]

Anybody have info on or know somebody that has retrofitted s54 throttle bodies to an M54 and then ran the S54 BMWP (or after market equal) intake? Is this even possible?

This is of interest to me, it's be a year? since I looked into this so some of this info may be old but still could be noteworthy. I bought a RRD M54 adapter kit:
1. It does not clear the M54 oil filter housing/power steering mounts, likely will have to use an S54 OFH or remote mount the p/s reservoir.
2. It does not clear the heater pipes
3. It is VERY tight to the vanos solenoid.
4. Temp sensor on OFH does not clear plenum
5. AFAIK no one has made S54 ITB/throttle actuator work with MS45.1, I'm on MS43 and I still haven't found conclusive info that it will work.

[BADCLOWN]

Idk if the clearance would be any different but have you heard of rabid racing development? They make ITBs for m54

[GeorgeH]

RRD = Rabid Racing Development. :)

[BADCLOWN]

I missed that part, my bad

[GeorgeH]

I missed that part, my bad

All good, I really want to make this kit work.

I'm going to revisit it this year and see what I can make happen.

[BADCLOWN]

I’m at a point with ownership of my car that it’s either do what has been mentioned above (if it was able to work) or supercharge the thing OR sell it and find a new car to mod/spend time with

[Galapolis]

If you are looking for power you might want to consider a high compression build and the N54 manifold.

Dbilas also makes an ITB kit but it will probably have similar issues to all the other kits.

[BADCLOWN]

I don’t really want to crack the motor open at all honestly

[GeorgeH]

I’m at a point with ownership of my car that it’s either do what has been mentioned above (if it was able to work) or supercharge the thing OR sell it and find a new car to mod/spend time with

TS2 or 3... Or Syncro Design Works turbo kit.

The ITB setup I don't think is going to yield much for hp gains on a stock long block.

[BADCLOWN]

The ITB setup wouldn’t be for horsepower gains so much as “cool factor” and the added noise, assumed increase in throttle response

[Will]

The ITB setup wouldn’t be for horsepower gains so much as “cool factor” and the added noise, assumed increase in throttle response

How about a s54 swap? Comes with ITBs, members like George H has lots of experience with the conversion, too. s54 sedan is pretty sweet.

[BADCLOWN]

How about a s54 swap? Comes with ITBs, members like George H has lots of experience with the conversion, too. s54 sedan is pretty sweet.


I’d love to do that but from my general understanding it costs anywhere from 8-10k parts and labor, I don’t have that kinda cash sitting around plus I’ve got my first kid on the way

[fredo]

... I’ve got my first kid on the way

Congrats !

[BADCLOWN]

Congrats !

Much appreciated, going to be a life changer for sure

[JETSET303]

[emoji991] Look at this post on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Qvk33zAi5mFJtwuY/?mibextid=79PoIi

Funny enough came across this today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240104/f605e80616379dbd0535770fe68581d1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240104/51006b8e06f563402cc9524ed571d0a1.jpg

[GeorgeH]

I’d love to do that but from my general understanding it costs anywhere from 8-10k parts and labor, I don’t have that kinda cash sitting around plus I’ve got my first kid on the way

Doing it DIY and nicely that number is probably still low.

[BADCLOWN]

I also don’t have the knowledge, time, etc. to do it myself. 90% of the work on my ZHP is done by my independent mechanic

[Will]

I’d love to do that but from my general understanding it costs anywhere from 8-10k parts and labor, I don’t have that kinda cash sitting around plus I’ve got my first kid on the way


Doing it DIY and nicely that number is probably still low.

Ouch, I didn't realize it was that much. Congrats on the first kid!

[GeorgeH]

Ouch, I didn't realize it was that much. Congrats on the first kid!

Its hard to find a good donor for that price, let alone any PM, labor, mods, etc.

[BADCLOWN]

My problem is this: regarding the motor I would want most of it gone through and refreshed, updated with various pieces, I’d want a BMWP (or the liking aftermarket) intake, and just make sure everything was done right so that the motor and setup is 100% good to go for a long while vs. having to address stuff down the road. Versus just buying a known good/lower mileage/compression tested car and just slapping it in there.

[GeorgeH]

$40k minimum for how I you would imagine you'd want it done.

[BADCLOWN]

$40k minimum for how I you would imagine you'd want it done.

I wasn’t thinking that much haha. Simple refresh of the motor, make sure everything is as OEM as possible, and throw that intake on. I know my Indy can do all of that, it’s just a matter of finding the parts. I also don’t know what all is needed outside of the motor bits.

[GeorgeH]

My problem is this: regarding the motor I would want most of it gone through and refreshed, updated with various pieces, I’d want a BMWP (or the liking aftermarket) intake, and just make sure everything was done right so that the motor and setup is 100% good to go for a long while vs. having to address stuff down the road. Versus just buying a known good/lower mileage/compression tested car and just slapping it in there.


I wasn’t thinking that much haha. Simple refresh of the motor, make sure everything is as OEM as possible, and throw that intake on. I know my Indy can do all of that, it’s just a matter of finding the parts. I also don’t know what all is needed outside of the motor bits.

I guess I don't know what a simple refresh is in your mind, lol. Figure a long block from BMW is $16k, Carbon plenum and its trimmings are $3k minimum, Headers/Exhaust to pair with the intake figured $3-4k minimum, cooling system, fuel system, wiring, and misc odds and ends plus labor. Then you have all the suspension, diff, brakes, etc to complete it.

I guess you could do the swap without the rest of the driveline, brakes and suspension but at that point seems a bit silly, but IDK.

[BADCLOWN]

Complete compression tested motors on eBay range from 4k-8k or so depending on mileage. Add in a trans and they range from 7-10k. I have no idea if you can use the 6spd from the ZHP or not and what the advantages/disadvantages are of using the ZHP rear end (if possible, or if you need the M3 rear end). I wouldn’t need brakes as my brake setup is all M3/M3 CSL. Just do rod bearings, vanos stuff, etc.

[fredo]

How can I get the complete VIN out of a partial VIN? For example, let’s say all I have is this:

KM08804

Mdecoder.com requires the full VIN.

[///Mark_D]

If you've got a similar full VIN from a car from the same series of production (2005 330i), you can change the last 7 and Bimmer.work will automatically correct the check digit for you. Otherwise you should be able to figure it out.

The first three digits for any E46 should be WBA (Country of origin W=Germany, Manufacturer code B =BMW, Vehicle type passenger car = A)


Digits 4-7 are the production series type code. In your case it's EV53. You can find that on realoem.com by entering the last 7 of your VIN:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?vin=KM08804

Digit 8 is also manufacturer specified. For E46 sedans/wagons I believe this number is always 4, for 4 doors.

9th digit is the check digit that can be calculated once you know all the other remaining digits.

10th digit is the model year, for 2005 this number is 5.

11-17 you know, KM08804.

So at this point you've got

WBAEV534x5KM08804

To calculate the check digit (x) plug it into the check digit calculator:
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/CheckDigit/Index/


So the full VIN should be WBAEV53425KM08804

https://mdecoder.com/decode/wbaev53425km08804



EDIT:

This chart should also be helpful. Looks like the 8th digit is related to the airbag system

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40141&d=1706027968

[John in VA]

The first three digits for any E46 should be WBA (Country of origin W=Germany, Manufacturer code B =BMW, Vehicle type passenger car = A)
Except those that begin with WBS.

[///Mark_D]

Except those that begin with WBS.

All E46 M3's would start with WBS then, right?

[fredo]

... So the full VIN should be WBAEV53425KM08804

This helps, thanks. I appreciate the detailed info.

[san]

Any while you?re in there parts that I could replace when I?m replacing the Guido and CSB?
Also, would I need to buy anything other than the parts themselves or are there any clips or fasteners that need replacing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

Refresh the shifter?
Exhaust manifold to pipes gaskets and studs
Differential bushings?
Shift Shaft seal?
Trans mounts?

[san]

Refresh the shifter?
Exhaust manifold to pipes gaskets and studs
Differential bushings?
Shift Shaft seal?
Trans mounts?


That?s a good list. Didn?t think of the shifter bits at all.
I?ve replaced the diff bushings, trans mounts and the exhaust manifold gaskets already but doesn?t hurt to check again and replace if needed, I guess.
Thanks George!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

What are folks with oval 2 pin connector alternators using for replacements?
The reman Bosch unit lasted me a year, so I?m considering just getting an OEM replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

Valeo or BMW, the Bosch reman starters and alternators have been hugely unreliable IMO, I won't install them unless there is absolutely no other option.

[san]

Valeo or BMW, the Bosch reman starters and alternators have been hugely unreliable IMO, I won't install them unless there is absolutely no other option.

Does valeo have the 2pin oval connector design? I was able to only find the rectangular 2 pin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vas]

Doesn't Bosch still sell a brand new unit ? I would avoid anything remanufactured

[GeorgeH]

What pn# do you have thats showing the wrong connector and what is the last 7 of your vin?

[san]

What pn# do you have thats showing the wrong connector and what is the last 7 of your vin?

Valeo PN 12317501599

VIN: PD99986


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

Are you looking at the stock photos or did you order one and it had the wrong connector?

I would wager the photos are incorrect, I agree that 599 is correct for your VIN too.

With that said I'm seeing new from BMW online in the $400. The Valeo at FCP looks like it is $271 retail. Personally for the difference I would like buy the BMW. And if you do that supply them your VIN and then you have recourse if you get the wrong one.

BMW parts when bought from a BMW franchise incl a 2yr parts and labor warranty. AND I think alternators might have a lifetime warranty. For those reasons and the price delta I would consider a genuine.

[san]

Are you looking at the stock photos or did you order one and it had the wrong connector?

I would wager the photos are incorrect, I agree that 599 is correct for your VIN too.

With that said I'm seeing new from BMW online in the $400. The Valeo at FCP looks like it is $271 retail. Personally for the difference I would like buy the BMW. And if you do that supply them your VIN and then you have recourse if you get the wrong one.

BMW parts when bought from a BMW franchise incl a 2yr parts and labor warranty. AND I think alternators might have a lifetime warranty. For those reasons and the price delta I would consider a genuine.

I didn?t order it, but the description has the following verbiage:

BMW Alternator - Valeo 12317501599
325Ci, 325i, 325xi, 330Ci, 330i, 330xi, 525i, & more
With rectangular-shaped 2-pin plug socket.
Confirmed fitment.

I bought the reman Bosch as a last resort last year when the genuine bmw or the new Bosch unit weren?t available.
I?ve bought it from fcp and I?ve asked them today if I could return the reman Bosch and pay the difference for a new genuine bmw unit. Let?s see what they say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

Personally I wouldn't take even a new Bosch over a Valeo or BMW.

I see that description even on the BMW, I think thats just some copy and paste action, but certainly good idea to double check if possible.

Usually FCP doesn't let you upgrade unless the original part is NLA, but maybe they will in this case. Keep us posted.

[das boots]

Valeo was the one I chose on my E30 M3 many moons ago when the alternator went kaput. Still going......

[san]

Personally I wouldn't take even a new Bosch over a Valeo or BMW.

I see that description even on the BMW, I think thats just some copy and paste action, but certainly good idea to double check if possible.

Usually FCP doesn't let you upgrade unless the original part is NLA, but maybe they will in this case. Keep us posted.

FCP said they will not upgrade.
George, where did you see the genuine bmw alternator for $4xx?
FCP seems to only carry reman genuine bmw.
I don?t want to deal with reman stuff again, I?ll just get the genuine bmw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

You could ask your local dealer if they will price match or if they give a CCA discount.

But otherwise... The 599 supersedes to 690
https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/68018983/12317501690.html

https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwmonterey.com/p/Bmw__530i/RP-REMAN-Compact-alternator-120A-BOSCH/68018983/12317501690.html

[Vas]

Hope this helps

Core charge is refunded https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/79cad31f1b25e9fa7be28dc61d4da928.jpg

[san]

You could ask your local dealer if they will price match or if they give a CCA discount.

But otherwise... The 599 supersedes to 690
https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/68018983/12317501690.html

https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwmonterey.com/p/Bmw__530i/RP-REMAN-Compact-alternator-120A-BOSCH/68018983/12317501690.html

I called my local dealer and he said it would be $522.2, which seemed too expensive.
But thanks for the links!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

Hope this helps

Core charge is refunded https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/79cad31f1b25e9fa7be28dc61d4da928.jpg

Thanks Vas!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

You could ask your local dealer if they will price match or if they give a CCA discount.

But otherwise... The 599 supersedes to 690
https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/68018983/12317501690.html

https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem-parts/bmw-alternator-12317501690

https://parts.bmwmonterey.com/p/Bmw__530i/RP-REMAN-Compact-alternator-120A-BOSCH/68018983/12317501690.html


Hope this helps

Core charge is refunded https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240806/79cad31f1b25e9fa7be28dc61d4da928.jpg

I just realized that all the links, including the bmwmini parts store seem to only have the remanufactured parts. Any idea if the new parts are available anymore?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeorgeH]

I don't believe BMW sells "new" alternators anymore or have for a long time.

Will your dealer price match or offer a CCA discount? Some will.