The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[roddykar]

Man.... I’m doing all this refresh/maintenance on my car in the next week for 200k and I realized after researching so many things to do, that I haven’t changed my (edit: steptronic) transmission fluid nor my power steering fluid. I’ve read at this point a risk transmission failure if I change the fluid because it has been so long. Should I just leave it be you think? As far as the power steering fluid, that shouldn’t be a problem to change it should it?

[az3579]

I’ve read at this point a risk transmission failure if I change the fluid because it has been so long.

I assume you have an automatic. You can change the fluid, just don't flush it.

[roddykar]

I assume you have an automatic. You can change the fluid, just don't flush it.
Yes, exactly—it is automatic. Thanks for that.


7440
Awesome. Thank you. My headlights + ccfl’s are still working flawlessly thanks to you, that day I came by your place. :o


Bimmian.com but now changed to weisslicht.com Spektrum Bulbs.

Too bad. Bimmian was so user friendly. They supplied all of my Spektrum exterior lamps. I guess they sold their branding to Weisslicht. Not sure. Bimmian just suddenly dropped off the radar.
Seems like many have faltered unfortunately.

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone know what the part number is for the M logo on the steering wheel?

[roddykar]

Anyone know what the part number is for the M logo on the steering wheel?
I think this is an OEM part, which doesn’t exist for our specific cars, but can be used on it if you cut out the backing with an exacto knife: 32332226479
I saw this post (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?7893-Steering-Wheel-M-Emblem&p=361849#post361849) a little while ago because I’m getting new emblems all over.

[BADCLOWN]

I’m having the steering wheel trim done in carbon fiber and need a new badge for it, I’ve heard steering wheel badges Off newer cars fit too. Can anyone advise?

How does that badge affix to our trim?

[ZHPizza]

I’m having the steering wheel trim done in carbon fiber and need a new badge for it, I’ve heard steering wheel badges Off newer cars fit too. Can anyone advise?

How does that badge affix to our trim?It's just glued in there. It'll pop right out if you pry on it.

Only pic I have of it removed is after I wrapped the lower trim in vinyl but you get the ideahttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200915/5da705991ec7de758b5ba00ab94b1a99.jpg

[pedro2u]

here's an old thread http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-7893.html

in that thread:

I knew I'd seen a steering wheel with a similar emblem on an E30 M3 Evo in an old Bimmer magazine, and sure enough the M Tech wheel emblem found on some Euro models is an exact match. Only difference is it has a backing with two mounting studs that will need to be removed. No big deal, just carefully cut it off with an Exacto knife and glue/epoxy the emblem in place.

Part number is 32 33 2 226 479, $10.00 from the BMW Parts Store

[BADCLOWN]

So I guess this would suffice:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274483716489

[pedro2u]

hmmm, that looks like the one for wheels..... but might work

or this one that needs the tabs cut off (as per the old thread) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW-E30-E31-E32-Steering-Wheel-Plaque-M-Emblem-Badge-OEM-32332226479-/323358296185

[t.er]

Does anyone know what would cause this? This is after 1 track day with HPS pads and Zimmermann rotors. I know, I know... HPS aren't meant to be track pads, but I haven't had any issues with them aside from going through pad material like crazy. I ran 4 track days with the first set I bought and the rotors had a bit of grooving, but nothing abnormal. Pad thickness is about equal inside and out, from what I can see without taking the caliper off.

Truth be told it might be my fault because I didn't bed the pads in when I replaced them - however I thought that was only necessary when switching pad compounds, and since I was replacing old HPS pads with new HPS pads, I wouldn't have to do so. Perhaps that would do it?

https://imgur.com/xt1rKhyl.jpg

https://imgur.com/RdbCHy7l.jpg

[ZHPizza]

Holy shit. Looks like you melted the pads to the rotors lol. I'd definitely ask the track group on nam3f

[az3579]

That's pretty normal after a track day, at least to me. That's what my rotors look like after a day with my PFC 011 pads.
As long as braking performance is normal then don't worry about it. :)

[t.er]

Holy shit. Looks like you melted the pads to the rotors lol. I'd definitely ask the track group on nam3fLol thank god for FCP warranty, I'm making very good use of it
That's pretty normal after a track day, at least to me. That's what my rotors look like after a day with my PFC 011 pads.
As long as braking performance is normal then don't worry about it. :)Wow, that's insane, was it just superficial or could you also feel grooving? I thought it was superficial but if you run your finger across it, you can feel all the ridges, the rotor is definitely scrapped/dented. Braking performance didn't have nearly the bite it had when new (basically no bite) and stopping power was a bit reduced, but it wasn't horrible. Was still able to set my PB by a huge margin but also had coilovers and cooler weather which helped. No vibrations but the pads and rotors are really noisy

[Galapolis]

I've never been to the track and my rotors look the same as yours, except I don't have pad material burnt into them. But I do have lots of grooves that can be felt. I'm also using OEM rotors (Hella Pagid) and Hawk HPS. My braking performance feels the same as always. The noise is normal too with the HPS pads.

[sillieidiot]

Awesome. Thank you. My headlights + ccfl’s are still working flawlessly thanks to you, that day I came by your place. :o


lol yeah most of my customer's with CCFLs are still working somehow. And people said that weren't reliable. Shit lasted like 10+ years.

[az3579]

Braking performance didn't have nearly the bite it had when new (basically no bite) and stopping power was a bit reduced, but it wasn't horrible. Was still able to set my PB by a huge margin but also had coilovers and cooler weather which helped. No vibrations but the pads and rotors are really noisy

Did you fade your pads? With HPS', you probably had brake fade, and probably cooked your brake fluid too. That will result in worse pedal feel.

[t.er]

I've never been to the track and my rotors look the same as yours, except I don't have pad material burnt into them. But I do have lots of grooves that can be felt. I'm also using OEM rotors (Hella Pagid) and Hawk HPS. My braking performance feels the same as always. The noise is normal too with the HPS pads.


Did you fade your pads? With HPS', you probably had brake fade, and probably cooked your brake fluid too. That will result in worse pedal feel.

Yeah stopping power did decrease slightly, but no significant fade to the point where I had any "o shit moments" where I'd go in too hot and go off. Didn't get a chance to check the pads or the fluid yet. I think next year I'm going to swap to something more track-oriented like DTC-60 for the front. If brake bias isn't too messed up, leave HPS on the rear since I'm still on my 1st set with plenty of meat left.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Hypothetically speaking..... if I found a 325xit with a blown motor........ I would have to source a M54B30 xi motor to do a proper swap right?........ then I’d have to simply pay for an EWS delete for it to run, correct?


Asking for a friend lol


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[Prestovie]

So this happened today. Lightly braked at a stop sign and the whole dang panel dropped from the ceiling. Anyone know how difficult it’d be to get a hand on another part/fix these snapped friction clips? (Sunroof wire was cut previously as a quick fix to accidentally opening the off-track sunroof)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200926/2436f96e8d9dbacdc4860fb24fc1033f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200926/3cb7997b7b5c79c534657f3c1eb93140.jpg


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[das boots]

So this happened today. Lightly braked at a stop sign and the whole dang panel dropped from the ceiling. Anyone know how difficult it’d be to get a hand on another part/fix these snapped friction clips? (Sunroof wire was cut previously as a quick fix to accidentally opening the off-track sunroof)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200926/2436f96e8d9dbacdc4860fb24fc1033f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200926/3cb7997b7b5c79c534657f3c1eb93140.jpg


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I had the same problem until I decided to screw it and purchased a new panel.

[Prestovie]

I had the same problem until I decided to screw it and purchased a new panel.

Ah shoot alright, kinda figured it’d be one of those “easier bought” fixes


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[Galapolis]

Do 10mm hubcentric spacers fit on the rear on our cars? I know the front doesn't work but I've seen people run them in the rear and just wanted to confirm.

[sillieidiot]

Do 10mm hubcentric spacers fit on the rear on our cars? I know the front doesn't work but I've seen people run them in the rear and just wanted to confirm.

It's the same for front and rear. If your spacer sits flush against the hub, then it should be fine. Worst case, you just shave a bit of the lip on the hub so that the spacer can sit flat. I've seen people run it on both. It just comes down to the tolerances of your car pretty much.

[sna77]

Interesting! So these are now T20 bulbs! I've been buying the OE wedge (T10 I believe?) fitment LEDs from various vendors and every single one I got was way too small. This might explain it. Does your setup look similar to mine?

There is a second generation of this bulb available. I am looking to replace the front turn signal bulbs in my 2006 convertible:
Philips X-tremeUltinon gen2 Amber LED WY21W (Twin) x 1
https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-wy21w-twin

37353

@BMWCURVES: You mentioned this in another post:
No bulb out warnings either. I'd code out the cold checks through PA Soft, but my old laptop that had the software decided to go kaput while I was away in DC (it was 13 years old doe).

Are you saying I can direct swap these bulbs without having to code out the bulb out warning on the car? Direct plug and play?

Thanks!

[BMWCurves]

There is a second generation of this bulb available. I am looking to replace the front turn signal bulbs in my 2006 convertible:
Philips X-tremeUltinon gen2 Amber LED WY21W (Twin) x 1
https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-wy21w-twin

37353

@BMWCURVES: You mentioned this in another post:
No bulb out warnings either. I'd code out the cold checks through PA Soft, but my old laptop that had the software decided to go kaput while I was away in DC (it was 13 years old doe).

Are you saying I can direct swap these bulbs without having to code out the bulb out warning on the car? Direct plug and play?

Thanks!

Whatever bulbs I stuck in (X-Treme Ultinon T20 Amber LED Y20 (WY21), 180lm) are plug n' play, and I later turned off the cold checks. No issues in the three-ish years I've had them in.

[ZHPizza]

There is a second generation of this bulb available. I am looking to replace the front turn signal bulbs in my 2006 convertible:
Philips X-tremeUltinon gen2 Amber LED WY21W (Twin) x 1
https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-wy21w-twin

37353

@BMWCURVES: You mentioned this in another post:
No bulb out warnings either. I'd code out the cold checks through PA Soft, but my old laptop that had the software decided to go kaput while I was away in DC (it was 13 years old doe).

Are you saying I can direct swap these bulbs without having to code out the bulb out warning on the car? Direct plug and play?

Thanks!Info here let's see if this works

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforu ms%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D20192&share_tid=20192&share_fid=14392&share_type=t&link_source=app

FS: Badass Amber LEDs for facelift coupe turn signals

[sna77]

Whatever bulbs I stuck in (X-Treme Ultinon T20 Amber LED Y20 (WY21), 180lm) are plug n' play, and I later turned off the cold checks. No issues in the three-ish years I've had them in.

Awesome, thanks!


Info here let's see if this works

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforu ms%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D20192&share_tid=20192&share_fid=14392&share_type=t&link_source=app

FS: Badass Amber LEDs for facelift coupe turn signals

OK... My 06 convertible is coming back next week-- at a BMW indy shop being rebuilt. Coding was today, so all should be whatever the final software release for the car was.

Looks like I need to find my old software cable, my old laptop, and remember how to use PA Soft. Anyone know how to use it that wants to do a screen share with me? :)

[sna77]

So these Philips LED bulbs just came in... They have a large pack connected to them. Were yours like this? If so, where did you stick this thing?

37364

[BMWCurves]

They did not include that...ballast? Regulator(s mount up)? I have no idea what that thing is.

[sillieidiot]

that looks like a resistor pack to me. use the bulbs and turn off all the checks. then you don't have to install that huge thing

[az3579]

that looks like a resistor pack to me. use the bulbs and turn off all the checks. then you don't have to install that huge thing

Turning off the checks isn't going to solve the hyperflash you get if you don't install it.
Unless the bulbs specify they are CANBUS bulbs, you'll need to use the resistor pack. In this case, the box states a CANBUS adapter is included; that means it's a resistor pack.

[sna77]

Turning off the checks isn't going to solve the hyperflash you get if you don't install it.
Unless the bulbs specify they are CANBUS bulbs, you'll need to use the resistor pack. In this case, the box states a CANBUS adapter is included; that means it's a resistor pack.

Looking at the package--I don't see anything about CANBUS compatibility. To confirm, these 1st gen Philips bulbs dont have the resistors and are simply plug and play...?

37367

[az3579]

Looking at the package--I don't see anything about CANBUS compatibility. To confirm, these 1st gen Philips bulbs dont have the resistors and are simply plug and play...?

37367

I haven't seen any CANBUS bulbs from any of the "name brand" manufacturers (Philips, Sylvania, etc.); they all require resistors. If it doesn't come in the package, then it will need a separate resistor. The Sylvania bulbs I purchased for the touring, for example, required resistors that had to be purchased separately.

Based on my searches, the no-name brand aftermarket is where the CANBUS bulbs seem to be. Those are bulbs that have the resistors built-in, which eliminate hyper-flash.

[ZHPizza]

Looking at the package--I don't see anything about CANBUS compatibility. To confirm, these 1st gen Philips bulbs dont have the resistors and are simply plug and play...?

37367Yes, the Japanese ones were plug and play with no errors or hyperflash. We only disabled the hot/cold checks because it makes them flicker like a damn strobe at startup (cold check) and randomly (hot checks).

@az3579 it's a facelift coupe thing...you wouldn't understand lol

[sna77]

Yes, the Japanese ones were plug and play with no errors or hyperflash. We only disabled the hot/cold checks because it makes them flicker like a damn strobe at startup (cold check) and randomly (hot checks).

@az3579 it's a facelift coupe thing...you wouldn't understand lol

your box didnt have the resistors included, and you just didnt use them, correct?

Hope it's also a facelift convertible thing lol.

[ZHPizza]

your box didnt have the resistors included, and you just didnt use them, correct?

Hope it's also a facelift convertible thing lol.Nope no resistors in the box. Coupe and vert have the same lights so you should be fine. I think I have another pair of the Japanese ones I can send you if they do throw an error.

[BMWCurves]

Yeah, I have the same ones as ZHPizza and the box included just the bulbs. No resistors. No issues.

[sna77]

Nope no resistors in the box. Coupe and vert have the same lights so you should be fine. I think I have another pair of the Japanese ones I can send you if they do throw an error.


Yeah, I have the same ones as ZHPizza and the box included just the bulbs. No resistors. No issues.

I wrote PowerBulbs where I bought the bulbs. This was the response:

Hello,

Thank you for your email.

I can confirm that the bulbs purchased are second generation. More recent Philips products have included a canbus adaptor along with the bulbs which just saves individuals making another purchase if they run into canbus issues.

The bulbs can be installed on their own, with the adaptor being used as a sort of backup option if you run into problems. We find that some vehicles do need the adaptor while others do not, but if you see warning signs on your dashboard pop up after installing the bulbs on their own then the adaptor will have to be used.

If we can help answer any further questions you may have please get back in touch.


Kind regards,

PowerBulbs

[malapane]

Anyone know fore sure what color grilles came on the sedan from the factory? I assume it is chrome surround and chrome slats, but I am not sure. I also figured the info is in this forum somewhere, but I did several searches and didn't find it. The chrome surround with black slats is an alternate and not stock, correct?

Thanks!

[Galapolis]

Anyone know fore sure what color grilles came on the sedan from the factory? I assume it is chrome surround and chrome slats, but I am not sure. I also figured the info is in this forum somewhere, but I did several searches and didn't find it. The chrome surround with black slats is an alternate and not stock, correct?

Thanks!

Chrome and black slabs is stock in the US. Full chrome is Euro spec. At least on a base 330i. Might be different for other models.

[malapane]

Chrome and black slabs is stock in the US. Full chrome is Euro spec. At least on a base 330i. Might be different for other models.

Interesting. This car has the chrome slats. I was pretty sure they were original. I didn't expect someone had changed out the black slat grilles for chrome.

[John in VA]

Interesting. This car has the chrome slats. I was pretty sure they were original. I didn't expect someone had changed out the black slat griiles for chrome.
My '06 ZHP coupe came originally with the chrome slat grilles - 51137064317 & 51137064318.

[Galapolis]

The ZHP is different from the base model. MSport is also different, that came with shadowline grills.

[ZHPizza]

Interesting. This car has the chrome slats. I was pretty sure they were original. I didn't expect someone had changed out the black slat grilles for chrome.Mine came with chrome slats too

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201015/4563f402266af05b7a2ad93231554347.jpg

[BMWCurves]

I'm 95% sure looking at old photos of my car that it too had silver slats with silver surround on the stock grille.

[pedro2u]

I was just looking at some 2005 brochures. The ZHP sedan shows with black slats and most other models (non ZHP) with silver slats. Same thing in the 2005 convertible brochure

[holyc0w]

Pretty sure the ZHP came with chrome grilles. Mine came with chrome grilles and that's what you usually see when somebody buys one. But black grilles are a popular mod.

[John in VA]

Pretty sure the ZHP came with chrome grilles. Mine came with chrome grilles and that's what you usually see when somebody buys one. But black grilles are a popular downgrade!
Fixed that for you!

[holyc0w]

Fixed that for you!

I was worried I said upgrade for a second. I do like the chrome grilles.

[pedro2u]

Pretty sure the ZHP came with chrome grilles. Mine came with chrome grilles and that's what you usually see when somebody buys one. But black grilles are a popular mod.

I agree that the black grilles are popular, I've done both my ZHP and my E92, but the twist here is that in the brochure the ZHP's had chrome outlines and black slats like this:

[holyc0w]

I agree that the black grilles are popular, I've done both my ZHP and my E92, but the twist here is that in the brochure the ZHP's had chrome outlines and black slats like this:

It also has a European style plate holder, so I'm not sure how much value I would place on that. Personally, I've only seen that chrome outside, black inside grille on a ZHP once and I believe they were either modified or replacements.

[pedro2u]

It also has a European style plate holder, so I'm not sure how much value I would place on that. Personally, I've only seen that chrome outside, black inside grille on a ZHP once and I believe they were either modified or replacements.

it seems all the brochures have European plates..... but I kind of like that grille more than the total black out look

[Galapolis]

it seems all the brochures have European plates..... but I kind of like that grille more than the total black out look

But Europe never got the ZHP, so that doesn't really say anything. I guess that based on the responses, we can deduce:

330i base US: black slabs
330i base EU: chrome slabs
ZHP: chrome slabs
MSport: shadowline

Not sure about the difference between sedan and coupe, if there is any.

[pedro2u]

I hear ya. I can't defend why they put European plates in the US brochure, but look at pages 8 and 9 in the attached brochure where they highlight our "Performance Package" which as we know was only offered here in the states. Go figure :dunno

They did put US plates in the Owner's Manual however

[Galapolis]

I hear ya. I can't defend why they put European plates in the US brochure, but look at pages 8 and 9 in the attached brochure where they highlight our "Performance Package" which as we know was only offered here in the states. Go figure :dunno

They did put US plates in the Owner's Manual however

Ah OK, so the first couple of pages are obviously Euro spec cars. That red ZHP pic looks like it just has a Euro plate photoshopped on (though it might just be the lighting that's weird). But yeah, almost all press photos are gonna be taken in Europe with Euro cars, so they just reuse those for brochures around the world. It wouldn't make sense to spend millions to take pictures of the car in every country it will be sold in.

[sillieidiot]

Turning off the checks isn't going to solve the hyperflash you get if you don't install it.
Unless the bulbs specify they are CANBUS bulbs, you'll need to use the resistor pack. In this case, the box states a CANBUS adapter is included; that means it's a resistor pack.

Well, generally when they mention CANBUS, it's actually a microcontroller that talks to your car and tells your car it's load and stuff. You can have CANBUS bulbs and still have hyper-flashing. But most aftermarket CANBUS actually uses a capacitor. Sometimes it's a combination of both capacitor and load resistor. There are resistors that are part of the LED bulb already to account for the voltage drop as well. The main issue for the hyper-flash is actually because those bulbs aren't drawing enough current on their own. But most of the time, if you're buying anything that says high powered LED or something like that, it should have enough current on it's own.

Honestly, I would stick the bulbs in there without the packs and see if they work before going through the trouble of installing everything. It's not hard to swap the turn signal bulbs out.

[fredo]

The dealer wrote down this note on my last ZHP visit: "Rear brakes may need attention next visit. Rear brake pads at 5 mm".

The pads are OEM. How many miles do you think I still have available ? Most of my drive is in the city. No auto-X or track use.

[pedro2u]

Lots of different opinions on miles or mm.....

I say everyone's mileage will be different based on how they drive, but assuming a new pad is 10-12mm, and assuming you expect the same driving pattern to continue, how many miles have you driven on the pads to get to 5mm?

Then you can calculate approximate miles per mm, and use that number to calculate how many miles you could drive to get to 2 or 3mm...... or whatever thickness is your desired replacement point

[fredo]

Good logic, Pete. PO replaced the pads around 60k miles ago. This means 12k miles is wearing out 1 mm of pad. Sounds like I still have plenty of miles to go.

[Galapolis]

I wouldn't worry. Just keep going until the brake pad sensor comes on.

[fredo]

Right, I didn't think about the sensor until now. Thanks.

[BADCLOWN]

What’s the leather reconditioning product everyone recommends, is it leatherique?

[BMWCurves]

What’s the leather reconditioning product everyone recommends, is it leatherique?

Si.

[t.er]

At some point I gotta try some of that stuff. From what I'm hearing it's a night and day difference

[johnrando]

I hear that's best on the older BMWs, not the E46 leather.

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[BMWCurves]

It made my M3 interior noticeably nicer. Not huge leaps and bounds more supple or anything, but you could tell it was hydrated and different.

[joeybananaz18]

What’s the leather reconditioning product everyone recommends, is it leatherique?

I did leatherique on my new heated seats before they went it. The impact was negligible. From what I’ve read once the Montana leather gets hard, it’s a done deal. Nappa on the M3 is totally different as I’m sure you know- they stand to gain a lot more from using it. It does clean it up a bit tho.


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[sna77]

I did leatherique on my new heated seats before they went it. The impact was negligible. From what I’ve read once the Montana leather gets hard, it’s a done deal. Nappa on the M3 is totally different as I’m sure you know- they stand to gain a lot more from using it. It does clean it up a bit tho.


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Wonder what it costs to order new leather from BMW for the front seats

[az3579]

Wonder what it costs to order new leather from BMW for the front seatsLast I checked it was over $1200 for both top and bottom covers for a single seat. This was years ago; surely it's more expensive now.

Nevermind - I just checked for basic black Montana leather and it shows NLA. Not sure I looked up the right one this time.

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[t.er]

Yeah, probably best to just find mint sport or M3 seats, much cheaper than new hide

[PdZHP]

This.

[sna77]

Last I checked it was over $1200 for both top and bottom covers for a single seat. This was years ago; surely it's more expensive now.

Nevermind - I just checked for basic black Montana leather and it shows NLA. Not sure I looked up the right one this time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure the difference in these versions of SCHWARTZ Montana leather
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BW53-USA-08-2006-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=52_2574


Bottom:
For vehicles with
Leather Montana/basic equip/schwarz
N6SW=Yes
03 Seat cover leather left SCHWARZ 1 52108255537 $581.55
03 Seat cover leather right SCHWARZ 1 52108255538 $581.55

Top:
For vehicles with
Leather Montana/basic equip/schwarz
N6SW=Yes
04 Cover backrest leather left SCHWARZ 1 52108255547 $695.57
04 Cover backrest leather right SCHWARZ 1 52108255548 $695.57

37421

[Mash46]

Hey mafia - I’m talking to the dealer for this specimen:https://www.adiautosport.com/inventory/2005-bmw-3-series-330ci/291422

Anyone inspect it? Dealer mentioned someone has a PPI report- is it you?

[Prestovie]

Just moved into a new place and the parking garage entrance/exit has a major lip and downwards slant. Front bumper clearance is surprisingly fine but I keep bottoming out on the undercarriage. Not a great sound.
I’ve tried to go at it at multiple angles and i can’t seem to get around it, any advice? Maybe something to throw on the lip to roll over?


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[fredo]

Just moved into a new place and the parking garage entrance/exit has a major lip and downwards slant. Front bumper clearance is surprisingly fine but I keep bottoming out on the undercarriage. Not a great sound.
I’ve tried to go at it at multiple angles and i can’t seem to get around it, any advice? Maybe something to throw on the lip to roll over?


I thought about this when I read your question.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20420-Rub-me-Not

[JETSET303]

Hey mafia - I’m talking to the dealer for this specimen:https://www.adiautosport.com/inventory/2005-bmw-3-series-330ci/291422

Anyone inspect it? Dealer mentioned someone has a PPI report- is it you?

I drive past it everyday on my commute. Took a pic for the sighted thread. Sorry, never stopped to look closer or talk to them about it.


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[Prestovie]

I thought about this when I read your question.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?20420-Rub-me-Not

Ah, I appreciate the link, can’t seem to pinpoint the product on their website(not the greatest layout). That might be something that i have to just keep in my trunk, though, for the future


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[joeybananaz18]

I've got a random one about leaks and vapor barriers.

So, in the time of my ownership i've come across two locations for water pooling, originally the front passenger side footwell and more recently the rear passenger footwell. Originally when I asked about the front I was told to check out the sunroof drain going down the A-pillar. However neither the A-pillar nor dashboard or anywhere else was wet. It was at this point where the ZHP was put into the garage for most of the year (only to come out a couple of weeks ago), so I never really investigated the front. However I notice the other day after some rain that there was a damp spot in the rear.

Some of you know that I've been doing a two tone interior so I figured before I button up the doors, I'd check the front vapor barriers for any leaks. I took my roll of butyl tape and literally went around the whole barrier and sealed it up along with holes that had wires coming out of them. I wanted to do the fronts first because I didn't want to worry about working around the airbags once the battery was back in. When I took of the front door panel, I saw that the part of the door closer to the hinge had beads of moisture on it. Could that be the source of the leak up front? I read somewhere that the windshield cowl could also attribute to interior leaks. I haven't replaced mine yet but if I find more water up front, should I look to do that?

Also regarding that rear puddle, i'll be doing the butyl on the rear VB tomorrow. Any other area I should look at?

[BMWCurves]

Anyone have some recommendations on a cordless ratchet? Thinking about splurging.


I've got a random one about leaks and vapor barriers.

So, in the time of my ownership i've come across two locations for water pooling, originally the front passenger side footwell and more recently the rear passenger footwell. Originally when I asked about the front I was told to check out the sunroof drain going down the A-pillar. However neither the A-pillar nor dashboard or anywhere else was wet. It was at this point where the ZHP was put into the garage for most of the year (only to come out a couple of weeks ago), so I never really investigated the front. However I notice the other day after some rain that there was a damp spot in the rear.

Some of you know that I've been doing a two tone interior so I figured before I button up the doors, I'd check the front vapor barriers for any leaks. I took my roll of butyl tape and literally went around the whole barrier and sealed it up along with holes that had wires coming out of them. I wanted to do the fronts first because I didn't want to worry about working around the airbags once the battery was back in. When I took of the front door panel, I saw that the part of the door closer to the hinge had beads of moisture on it. Could that be the source of the leak up front? I read somewhere that the windshield cowl could also attribute to interior leaks. I haven't replaced mine yet but if I find more water up front, should I look to do that?

Also regarding that rear puddle, i'll be doing the butyl on the rear VB tomorrow. Any other area I should look at?

Hmmm...I don't really know, I'd always head the sunroof, don't really know where the other drains around the car are. Other people more knowledgeable can chime in, sorry!

[pedro2u]

Anyone have some recommendations on a cordless ratchet? Thinking about splurging.

I bought the M12 Milwaukee ratchet after watching the 50sKid videos... he used it on everything

it's the most used and best tool I've ever added to my box. I use it on almost every repair... https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2457-21-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Ratchet/dp/B006GKFWSS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+m12&qid=1604540715&sr=8-4

I have since added multiple M12 tools (inflator, nailer, drill, flashlight) to optimize the M12 batteries and they are all awesome

[BMWCurves]

I bought the M12 Milwaukee ratchet after watching the 50sKid videos... he used it on everything

it's the most used and best tool I've ever added to my box. I use it on almost every repair... https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2457-21-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Ratchet/dp/B006GKFWSS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+m12&qid=1604540715&sr=8-4

I have since added multiple M12 tools (inflator, nailer, drill, flashlight) to optimize the M12 batteries and they are all awesome

Gracias! Is 35 ft-lbs of torque enough for most auto-related jobs excluding wheels?

[pedro2u]

Gracias! Is 35 ft-lbs of torque enough for most auto-related jobs excluding wheels?

not for wheels. it's not an impact. But for almost every nut or bolt I grab this this tool (and at the tougher end think brake calipers bolts) is in the wheel house of this ratchet. I have Craftsman impact for wheels

[BMWCurves]

not for wheels. it's not an impact. But for almost every nut or bolt I grab this this tool (and at the tougher end think brake calipers bolts) is in the wheel house of this ratchet. I have Craftsman impact for wheels

Yeah, I already have an impact wrench, wouldn't dream of reaching for the ratchet for the wheels.

[roddykar]

I realized a little while ago my zhp doesn't have tips on the exhaust (just bare metal muffler tips?)
Is this normal? And does anyone know if I can buy OEM exhaust tips that'll fit these (without requiring welding) that aren't the regular chrome e46 ones?

I think I read somewhere that e53 x5 exhaust tips will also fit our mufflers?

[PdZHP]

ZHP muffler came with polished metal tips, no chrome. They polish up nice with some elbow grease.

[roddykar]

ZHP muffler came with polished metal tips, no chrome. They polish up nice with some elbow grease.
I see. So I shouldn't get any tips then? Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? I feel like mine look like worn metal, like no polish to them.

[t.er]

I see. So I shouldn't get any tips then? Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? I feel like mine look like worn metal, like no polish to them.

I have the BMWP exhaust, but it was pretty cruddy for a while. I sanded it with 800 grit sandpaper, which was enough to get rid of all the carbon. How much polishing and the number of steps would depend on how shiny you want it - 800 grit is good for something like a brushed finish, you can move to 1500, 2000 grit, then various steel wools. Then use actual metal polish with a MF towel if you want it to have a mirror-like shine.

https://i.imgur.com/j8BQST5l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/C0Rzzf6l.jpg

[PdZHP]

I see. So I shouldn't get any tips then? Any recommendations on what to use for cleaning? I feel like mine look like worn metal, like no polish to them.

Blue Magic works like magic.

[roddykar]

Got it. Appreciate the gents. Gonna give that a shot.

While I’m here, anyone know where I can find some warm-colored LED interior bulbs? Looking to either go back to just regular OEM bulbs (if I can even find any) or change from my existing LED 6000k/6500k to something in the 4000k range. Where I’m at right now is just way too white-blue. I’ve checked Amazon, EBay, seen Ziza on ECS, but I’m afraid they’re still too white-blue for me.

[az3579]

Got it. Appreciate the gents. Gonna give that a shot.

While I’m here, anyone know where I can find some warm-colored LED interior bulbs? Looking to either go back to just regular OEM bulbs (if I can even find any) or change from my existing LED 6000k/6500k to something in the 4000k range. Where I’m at right now is just way too white-blue. I’ve checked Amazon, EBay, seen Ziza on ECS, but I’m afraid they’re still too white-blue for me.


This is the reason I haven't changed my bulbs yet either; everything is too cold looking. Curious about this one as well.

[roddykar]

This is the reason I haven't changed my bulbs yet either; everything is too cold looking. Curious about this one as well.
Man....I've been looking for quite some time. Can't find anything. I just started looking for just regular OEM bulbs, and I can't find those either, although I just started looking. And it's hard to create my own custom set off eBay because everyone's definition of 4000k (if they even have it) is slightly different; so buying from multiple vendors might give an inconsistent look.

[BMWCurves]

My sis is going through her car for some maintenance stuff, and on the list is replacing the fuel filter. I figure she should replace the soft fuel lines as well. Are there specific fuel lines to replace i.e. are there specific lines to replace and do they have part numbers?

[ZHPizza]

My sis is going through her car for some maintenance stuff, and on the list is replacing the fuel filter. I figure she should replace the soft fuel lines as well. Are there specific fuel lines to replace i.e. are there specific lines to replace and do they have part numbers?Don't think it's necessary at all. The only other line I would change with it is the vacuum line that goes to the F connector, and that's only if it falls apart when you disconnect it.

[pedro2u]

My sis is going through her car for some maintenance stuff, and on the list is replacing the fuel filter. I figure she should replace the soft fuel lines as well. Are there specific fuel lines to replace i.e. are there specific lines to replace and do they have part numbers?

are you talking about the rubber hoses that connect to the fuel filter? If yes, when I replaced mine, the Bavauto kit included all the rubber hoses that connected to the hard lines, so I'd say ... YES

[Galapolis]

I used the Bavauto kit too back in the day and I definitely needed new lines, my old ones crumbled apart and were not reusable. That being said, the Bavauto ones are even worse. I checked them recently and they are starting to crack and tear apart after only 2 years. Get silicone hoses.

[t.er]

FWIW I reused mine and they were okay. Honestly, it's just some hose... I'd just take a trip down to the local parts store and buy a small length of fuel-rated hose in the correct size and call it a day

[BMWCurves]

Don't think it's necessary at all. The only other line I would change with it is the vacuum line that goes to the F connector, and that's only if it falls apart when you disconnect it.

are you talking about the rubber hoses that connect to the fuel filter? If yes, when I replaced mine, the Bavauto kit included all the rubber hoses that connected to the hard lines, so I'd say ... YES

Yeah, I meant the soft lines from the fuel filter to the hard lines.

Is Bavauto still even around? I thought ECS acquired them.


I used the Bavauto kit too back in the day and I definitely needed new lines, my old ones crumbled apart and were not reusable. That being said, the Bavauto ones are even worse. I checked them recently and they are starting to crack and tear apart after only 2 years. Get silicone hoses.

That's not great longevity at all.


FWIW I reused mine and they were okay. Honestly, it's just some hose... I'd just take a trip down to the local parts store and buy a small length of fuel-rated hose in the correct size and call it a day

Yeah, I don't hear them being things that require replacement, just if you're there you might as well.

[John in VA]

Is Bavauto still even around? I thought ECS acquired them.
Yes, they are gone - rolled into ECS/Turner/Pelican.

[Will]

Yeah, I meant the soft lines from the fuel filter to the hard lines.
...

I changed them, but I'm not sure there was anything wrong with them, though. I ordered some Continental OEM hose from Pelican and it had the BMW print. But like t.er said, any fuel rated hose should suffice. Size is 8x13. 1 foot is more than enough for the 3 segments. I'd send you some, but I think shipping to PDX would exceed price of getting some fuel hose from NAPA or Oreillys locally.

Photos of the Conti hose in my project thread (here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22161-04-AW-Blk-coupe-project-(engine-replacement-first)&p=582905#post582905)).

Edit: This is what I bought, link (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/13537563456.htm?pn=13-53-7-563-456-M21&SVSVSI=0305&DID=17617)

[BMWCurves]

I changed them, but I'm not sure there was anything wrong with them, though. I ordered some Continental OEM hose from Pelican and it had the BMW print. But like t.er said, any fuel rated hose should suffice. Size is 8x13. 1 foot is more than enough for the 3 segments. I'd send you some, but I think shipping to PDX would exceed price of getting some fuel hose from NAPA or Oreillys locally.

Photos of the Conti hose in my project thread (here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22161-04-AW-Blk-coupe-project-(engine-replacement-first)&p=582905#post582905)).

Edit: This is what I bought, link (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/13537563456.htm?pn=13-53-7-563-456-M21&SVSVSI=0305&DID=17617)

Awesome possum, my dude. Appreciate it!

[ZHPizza]

Anyone know what these plastic washers may be? The number on the bag isn't returning anything, but it looks like I bought 6 of them for something. Thumb for scale.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/a50b83976daaade149b1f76d7029d167.jpg

[Archbid]

Anyone know what these plastic washers may be? The number on the bag isn't returning anything, but it looks like I bought 6 of them for something. Thumb for scale.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/a50b83976daaade149b1f76d7029d167.jpg

51718212163
That’s my guess

[pedro2u]

I found it on a Ukraine BMW site, there's a 3 missing from the end of your part number. Try 51718212163. Looks like it goes on the engine plastic pan X 6

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BW53-USA-09_2002_E46_BMW_330Ci&diagId=51_3274#51718212163

[ZHPizza]

51718212163
That’s my guess
I found it on a Ukraine BMW site, there's a 3 missing from the end of your part number. Try 51718212163. Looks like it goes on the engine plastic pan X 6

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BW53-USA-09_2002_E46_BMW_330Ci&diagId=51_3274#51718212163Ah that's it! Probably would have figured it out on my own if I had found the bag of 6 splash shield screws at the same time lol

Thanks guys!

[pedro2u]

I actually replaced all the missing hardware on my belly pan in May, and bought 7 of these (the oil drain access cover uses it too)

[papa_g]

So I think it's time to finally get a new front bumper. After plastic welding the bracket and getting it as flush as i possibly could, my brother trashed it again by pulling too far forward in a parking stall.

Question: does anyone know where i can get just the MTech II bumper cover for a coupe and none of the associated mesh, foglights, or foglight trim?
https://www.carparts.com/details/BMW/325i/Replacement/2002-2005/B010306P.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces
Like this, but for a coupe. And not genuine BMW lol.

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone know where to buy some decent carbon fiber engine covers?

[Archbid]

Has anyone done rear wheel bearings? There is an OEM installation kit on eBay for $150. I would rather buy a more universal tool, but if this would make life easier I can roll with it. I guess I could rent it out as well.

What would the mafia do? OEM tool or Harbor freight kit?

I did it earlier this year. It is not fun.

I needed:
Axle remover - driver side only
Standard universal bearing press to remove and press the bearing and spindle
Race puller to remove the inner race from the spindle

I bought the axle puller from ecs and borrowed the other two from autozone.

[John in VA]

Anyone know where to buy some decent carbon fiber engine covers?
Have you considered hydrographics/water transfer printing? https://www.lipcollision.com/services/hydrographics/

[BADCLOWN]

Have you considered hydrographics/water transfer printing? https://www.lipcollision.com/services/hydrographics/

id prefer actual CF, that is an interesting process though

[BMWCurves]

Has anyone heard of anyone in the E46 community figuring out how to code the M3 instrument cluster into our cars with a functioning shift light? Not just for specific RPM, but that has been coded for rate of RPM acceleration as well? I remember a previous member was working on it (who I think has now graduated from medical school) but I can't remember his username and he hasn't been active in a long time.

[t.er]

Has anyone heard of anyone in the E46 community figuring out how to code the M3 instrument cluster into our cars with a functioning shift light? Not just for specific RPM, but that has been coded for rate of RPM acceleration as well? I remember a previous member was working on it (who I think has now graduated from medical school) but I can't remember his username and he hasn't been active in a long time.Don't know the details but I believe that was terra or terraphantm. I think he's more (and still) active at nam3f

[BMWCurves]

https://i.imgur.com/0gOjdZk.gif

I'll have to stalk him over there. I want an M3 cluster, but only if that can managed to be coded.

[BADCLOWN]

I have an M3 cluster in my ZHP, I’ve been told that the warm up lights don’t work unless you have the S54 swap parts associated with it/actually have that swap. It’s the only thing in the cluster that doesn’t work that I wish would.

[BMWCurves]

I have an M3 cluster in my ZHP, I’ve been told that the warm up lights don’t work unless you have the S54 swap parts associated with it/actually have that swap. It’s the only thing in the cluster that doesn’t work that I wish would.

Terra had gotten the warm up lights to work (in terms of coolant temp) and I might errantly remember him working on coding them as the shift lights like in an M3, but then became busy with medical school.

Terra's warm up lights:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7q7xC0wyIY

This guy's video has the shift lights coded although they seem a little off. Coded by one comrade "Dimitri R":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VE8S_etYT9c

This guy also has it going, apparently:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYAudhc02nQ

[BADCLOWN]

I’d love to get that feature working, part of the reason I got the cluster to begin with, albeit not the main reason. I just think that cluster has a much better aesthetic

[cakM3]

I’d love to get that feature working, part of the reason I got the cluster to begin with, albeit not the main reason. I just think that cluster has a much better aesthetic

Jacob, have you tried sending terra a PM over on nam3f?

[Vas]

I have a cluster that was modified by terra installed in my car. The warm-up lights and other functions work besides the Rev lights. Iirc it was something to do with the dme not being from the m3
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201218/e39a28618c60508b808645771c983359.jpg

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[BADCLOWN]

I’ll have to PM him over there


I thought it wasn’t possible to do without some M3 parts

[iya_e46]

I’d love to get that feature working, part of the reason I got the cluster to begin with, albeit not the main reason. I just think that cluster has a much better aesthetic

My clock spring broke and I'm thinking of just replacing my cluster with another zhp one but seeing this makes me think otherwise. Anybody from the mafia knows how to code to my VIN if I decide to change cluster?

[ZHP_Brandon]

My clock spring broke and I'm thinking of just replacing my cluster with another zhp one but seeing this makes me think otherwise. Anybody from the mafia knows how to code to my VIN if I decide to change cluster?

If you figure this out, count me in. I have an SMG cluster that I’d like to use, My biggest gripe is the yellow illumination. I absolutely hate it.


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[BADCLOWN]

My clock spring broke and I'm thinking of just replacing my cluster with another zhp one but seeing this makes me think otherwise. Anybody from the mafia knows how to code to my VIN if I decide to change cluster?


I had a local guy my indy mechanic knows who coded all my stuff.

[joeybananaz18]

I've got some polish in the black trim pieces that run around the bumpers and doors. Whats the best way to get rid of that stuff? My bumper was just resprayed and it looks perfect. want the rest of the car to follow suit. TIA

[Archbid]

I've got some polish in the black trim pieces that run around the bumpers and doors. Whats the best way to get rid of that stuff? My bumper was just resprayed and it looks perfect. want the rest of the car to follow suit. TIA

Get a plastic pry tool and just pull it off. Clean it and snap it back in.

[RUS_ZHP]

Looking for some data from other states on the cost of labor on your beloved cars.
Anybody did an oil pan gasket recently in the shops and can share the cost? Yesterday, I got a quote from my shop. I was surprised that price got 50% increase in less than 4 years. The recent quote is $900. I called two other BMW specialized shop and all of them quoted me in $900 range.
I am struggling to understand that labor got ~50% in MA in 4 years.

[Fenrir]

I had mine done in 2019 for 600. That's an insane price spike.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

[PdZHP]

Magic eraser


I've got some polish in the black trim pieces that run around the bumpers and doors. Whats the best way to get rid of that stuff? My bumper was just resprayed and it looks perfect. want the rest of the car to follow suit. TIA

[RUS_ZHP]

I had mine done in 2019 for 600. That's an insane price spike.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

Exactly. That was my quote at the end of 2017 from BMW specialized shops, including Turner Motorsport.

[Fenrir]

Exactly. That was my quote at the end of 2017 from BMW specialized shops, including Turner Motorsport.Dude 900 bucks is downright crazy. Just got a quote from my Indie shop out of curiosity. 650 including labor. 900 is just.....wow.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

[RUS_ZHP]

Dude 900 bucks is downright crazy. Just got a quote from my Indie shop out of curiosity. 650 including labor. 900 is just.....wow.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

Thank you for the reference. It is freaking MA being so expensive.

[Fenrir]

Thank you for the reference. It is freaking MA being so expensive.

Very welcome. I'm sorry brother.

[joeybananaz18]

Magic eraser

That’s awesome I’m gonna try that


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[stephenkirsh]

My Schwann torque wrench internals snapped.

What would you guys replace it with?

[Vas]

My Schwann torque wrench internals snapped.

What would you guys replace it with?Most people buy the Tekton torque wrench which is also cheap.

If you are willing to spend more and consider it as an investment check out KC Tools. Those are really nice and are german brand.

Or another nice option is Sonic tools usa. They are also really nice

Do you have a price range/budget ?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Will]

I have a couple CDI Torque wrenches (click type and digital) and I have no complaints. They're part of Snap-on, but I think their primary market is industrial use.

CDI Torque (http://cditorque.com)

Edit to add, I bought mine from Amazon.

[JPMo]

I'm getting a fairly loud, almost electric, whirring sound from around the rear around my passenger side wheel. Any thoughts? Could it be the fuel filter or is it a fuel pump issue?

[papa_g]

I'm getting a fairly loud, almost electric, whirring sound from around the rear around my passenger side wheel. Any thoughts? Could it be the fuel filter or is it a fuel pump issue?

the fuel pump is more likely to be the culprit since it is in that general area.your fuel filter is on the driver side, closer to the front wheel. Then again, a clogged filter could damage the pump.
Is it worse on start-up? does it calm down or get worse through out the drive? How many miles are on your fuel pump?
Do you hear it while driving? maybe it is a wheel bearing or caliper issue.

[Will]

I second the fuel pump. That's the only thing that makes noise back there while stopped. As Papa_g asked, how many miles? It's amazing that the e46 fuel pumps seem to go between 100-120k miles with uncanny consistency.

[cakM3]

I second the fuel pump. That's the only thing that makes noise back there while stopped. As Papa_g asked, how many miles? It's amazing that the e46 fuel pumps seem to go between 100-120k miles with uncanny consistency.

I can say from experience that these fuel pumps fail around the 100 - 120k range. I had mine fail at 120k on my M3 and with my ZHP I started seeing a slight studder when starting the car so I will be changing out my fuel pump this week as a precaution.

[cakM3]

Exactly. That was my quote at the end of 2017 from BMW specialized shops, including Turner Motorsport.

Sergy, I got you a better quote from my indy shop[emoji41]


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[RUS_ZHP]

Sergy, I got you a better quote from my indy shop[emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone 11 Pro Max using Tapatalk ProYou're the man Charlie! The quote that you obtained from your shop is very good.
I'll share some details once I'll schedule the job.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[cakM3]

You're the man Charlie! The quote that you obtained from your shop is very good.
I'll share some details once I'll schedule the job.

Glad I was able to help you out Sergy! :thumbsup Looking forward to meeting up with you my friend :cool

[JPMo]

the fuel pump is more likely to be the culprit since it is in that general area.your fuel filter is on the driver side, closer to the front wheel. Then again, a clogged filter could damage the pump.
Is it worse on start-up? does it calm down or get worse through out the drive? How many miles are on your fuel pump?
Do you hear it while driving? maybe it is a wheel bearing or caliper issue.
I second the fuel pump. That's the only thing that makes noise back there while stopped. As Papa_g asked, how many miles? It's amazing that the e46 fuel pumps seem to go between 100-120k miles with uncanny consistency.

From my understanding it has never been changed and I'm at about 158k miles. Sound doesn't go away with driving, but I only hear it when idling and I'm standing outside. It's pretty constant.

I guess next question is how urgent is replacing it since I'm only getting noise? I'm not getting any stuttering or fuel level issues but it looks like I'm way overdue.

[papa_g]

Yeah I would change the pump. I’ve heard these things can just fail out of the blue and leave you stranded. I keep a spare in my trunk just in case. Don’t forget to get a new gasket as well.


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[BMWCurves]

Yeah I would change the pump. I’ve heard these things can just fail out of the blue and leave you stranded. I keep a spare in my trunk just in case. Don’t forget to get a new gasket as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And a very inexpensive M3 fuel pump baffle

[papa_g]

And a very inexpensive M3 fuel pump baffle

And very practical for calm daily driving


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[cakM3]

Yeah I would change the pump. I’ve heard these things can just fail out of the blue and leave you stranded. I keep a spare in my trunk just in case. Don’t forget to get a new gasket as well.

I can vouch for this. It has happened twice for me... the first time in my M3. I did not pay too much attantion to the symptoms and was left stranded on the Garden State Parkway as a result and I ended up having to pay a $300 towing charge to get my car to an indy shop 12 miles away to get a new fuel pump installed...

The second time it happened to me I was in a friend's car and the fuel pump had failed so @JPMo get your fuel pump changed out as soon as you can. At 158k miles you're just taking a huge chance and it will be only a matter of time when your fuel pump will fail.

I'm changing out the fuel pump on my ZHP this week as I have no idea when it was changed out last as I am about to take the car out on a road trip this weekend...

[t.er]

And a very inexpensive M3 fuel pump baffle

:shifty I wish they were as cheap as they were a few years ago. New ones are about $90 and used ones, $50-60

Still well worth the price if you go to the track, it's quite frustrating taking a right turn and having power cuts at 1/2 tank

[Will]

From my understanding it has never been changed and I'm at about 158k miles. Sound doesn't go away with driving, but I only hear it when idling and I'm standing outside. It's pretty constant.

I guess next question is how urgent is replacing it since I'm only getting noise? I'm not getting any stuttering or fuel level issues but it looks like I'm way overdue.

Urgency, who knows. It's more peace of mind and avoidance of potential hassle of being stranded, or ruining your plans for the day(s).

There were no symptoms when mine failed; no stumbling, no stuttering. It was sudden onset.

Parts were ~150 for the VDO pump and ~10 for the gasket, and 2 hrs for DIY (do it with less than 1/2 tank of fuel). Your local shop will vary. I was quoted 700.

[JPMo]

Alright, will do. The videos online are easy enough. I'll probably go ahead and get the fuel filter as well.
Thank you all for your help!

[John in VA]

I'll probably go ahead and get the fuel filter as well.
Sometimes the hose clamps are single use - you might consider a new pair. Good luck!

[Will]

Sometimes the hose clamps are single use - you might consider a new pair. Good luck!

I concur. But if you decide not to, just use a pair of pliers or vise-grips to get them tight.


Alright, will do. The videos online are easy enough. I'll probably go ahead and get the fuel filter as well.
Thank you all for your help!

Good luck. Don't forget to disconnect the battery.

[Prestovie]

Any DIY fixes for a frozen key cylinder? Had to crawl through my trunk(which thankfully wasn’t frozen) this morning and unlock from the inside to make it work on time, and of course even at the end of the day it still won’t budge.
I can get the key in but it’s like inserting it into a block of ice


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[John in VA]

Any DIY fixes for a frozen key cylinder? Had to crawl through my trunk(which thankfully wasn’t frozen) this morning and unlock from the inside to make it work on time, and of course even at the end of the day it still won’t budge.
I can get the key in but it’s like inserting it into a block of ice
I've had the opposite occur - key moves freely to left or right without resistance, not locking or unlocking the door. Not to say this is the same problem you're experiencing. Got the repair kit from eBay (choose the closest seller/best feedback). There are several good You Tube videos detailing how to R&R the handle & innards. Good luck!
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=bmw+e46+door+lock+repair+kit&_sacat=0

[BADCLOWN]

Anybody ever bought one of these style lips before off eBay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324029807686

[cakM3]

Anybody ever bought one of these style lips before off eBay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324029807686

I’m considering purchasing one of these eventually but right now I have a few things going on I need to address first before getting to this…


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[BADCLOWN]

I’m considering purchasing one of these eventually but right now I have a few things going on I need to address first before getting to this…


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Charlie I’ve been eyeing them for like two years. I may just pull the trigger and let you know how the quality is

[cakM3]

Charlie I’ve been eyeing them for like two years. I may just pull the trigger and let you know how the quality is

Sounds good Jacob. I figure I can roll with this until I get to the point where I can get my ZHP completely repainted then I will mount Performance Carbon Fiber splitters that I will have by that time... :drevil

[Prestovie]

Ripped my skid plate off gunning it out of my plowed in drive in reverse, worth the replacement or just rock without?


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[t.er]

Ripped my skid plate off gunning it out of my plowed in drive in reverse, worth the replacement or just rock without?


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I'd say you should grab one, shouldn't be too expensive from a part-out. I think I remember reading somewhere that some guy cracked his windshield with it off, which sounds plausible if you go over a really bad pothole and the windshield bottoms out on the surrounding sheet metal

[cakM3]

I'd say you should grab one, shouldn't be too expensive from a part-out. I think I remember reading somewhere that some guy cracked his windshield with it off, which sounds plausible if you go over a really bad pothole and the windshield bottoms out on the surrounding sheet metal

+1

[t.er]

Oh wait, not sure if you're talking about the aluminium reinforcement plate or the plastic undertray in front of that. The plastic one isn't as critical though, just keeps dirt and water out. Either way you should get one, the plastic one will be even cheaper than the aluminium one

[Prestovie]

Oh wait, not sure if you're talking about the aluminium reinforcement plate or the plastic undertray in front of that. The plastic one isn't as critical though, just keeps dirt and water out. Either way you should get one, the plastic one will be even cheaper than the aluminium one

Oh yeah i should’ve been more specific, just the plastic guard. Good call on looking for a part-out, I’ll keep an eye out


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[papa_g]

+1. Easy cheap insurance


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[cakM3]

Oh yeah i should’ve been more specific, just the plastic guard. Good call on looking for a part-out, I’ll keep an eye out

Luckily the plastic front belly pan is cheap

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50979540841_8b796e788d_c.jpg
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/belly-pan/51718268344/

If you needed the metal skid plate, that's much more expensive on the wallet...

The front subframe brace is light and made of aluminum and bends easily. I had to replace this part on my first ZHP and fortunately Peter had one so I traded a part I had for his...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50979660917_cd432df6c2_c.jpg
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/front-subframe-brace/51717028433/

Brand new this part isn't too bad as compared to the other part below...

Looking at this part shocked me regarding cost.... if I needed this part I would go to the wrecking yards first to see if I could source this part from a wrecked 3-series...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50979557296_b1e7e3dd05_c.jpg
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/front-protective-skid-plate/51717028893/

Good thing it's only the cheap plastic part that you need....

[rguti153]

So does anybody know any good front black clear corner lights? The front oem corner lights that I have on order keep getting push back . They are being delay , went from February 23 to March 16. I've tried aftermarket corner lights and the fitment was garbage and ended up fogging up after a couple of weeks. Do any of yall recommend anything ? A brand ?

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[John in VA]

I've tried aftermarket corner lights and the fitment was garbage and ended up fogging up after a couple of weeks. Do any of yall recommend anything ? A brand ?
What about spraying with VHF Night-shades or applying a transparent vinyl or windshield tint?

[rguti153]

What about spraying with VHF Night-shades or applying a transparent vinyl or windshield tint?I have the origial amber corners , trying to get the clear black corners . Oem are on backorder . I will buy aftermarket , but im just trying to see which ones are the best . I've purchase some from Amazon before n they were horrible . https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210226/a8d5e2d2458c04938eec060044781ebf.jpg

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[John in VA]

I have the origial amber corners , trying to get the clear black corners . Oem are on backorder . I will buy aftermarket , but im just trying to see which ones are the best . I've purchase some from Amazon before n they were horrible.
I've only used genuine BMW or ULO.

[cakM3]

I've only used genuine BMW or ULO.

+1

Here is a set from FCP Euro :thumbsup

Left side:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-turn-signal-assembly-front-left-ulo-63137165849

Right side:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-turn-signal-assembly-front-right-ulo-63137165850

Best part about getting these from FCP is that they also have a lifetime warranty on them so it is worth buying these from FCP and have a lifetime warranty on them to boot :thumbsup

[rguti153]

+1

Here is a set from FCP Euro :thumbsup

Left side:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-turn-signal-assembly-front-left-ulo-63137165849

Right side:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-turn-signal-assembly-front-right-ulo-63137165850

Best part about getting these from FCP is that they also have a lifetime warranty on them so it is worth buying these from FCP and have a lifetime warranty on them to boot :thumbsupThank you!!!!

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[cakM3]

Thank you!!!!

any time! :thumbsup

[BADCLOWN]

what would you guys recommend refreshing/replacing/preventative maintenance-wise when doing a supercharger install?

[san]

what would you guys recommend refreshing/replacing/preventative maintenance-wise when doing a supercharger install?

If you decide to go all out

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18649-The-it-was-supposed-to-be-just-an-oil-pan-gasket-project


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[BADCLOWN]

If you decide to go all out

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18649-The-it-was-supposed-to-be-just-an-oil-pan-gasket-project


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I remember this from a while back. that's a little bit more than I would address. I'm thinking more in the couple hundred dollar range at most (if its necessary or part of the "while you're in there" work". My car is pretty tight and well maintained. Just wondering what would be worth replacing "while in there" whether it be drivetrain stuff, belts, etc.

[RUS_ZHP]

About a week ago I was in Providence RI area. I decided to visit my friend, who goes by CAKM3. One funny fact that I didn't know about the Charlie was his pation for old Arcade games. I didn't know that he has that game and keeps it his living room.
My wife is pretty competitive and she wanted to try this game. Apparently. Charlie is very competitive too. It was fun for me watching these two kids playing in 80s game. I thought that my wife and Charlie are grown up adults, but apparently they just kids.

Hey Charlie, fun times my friend. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210302/11835110342ff7034130bdb6786377c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210302/8a0760c15eab8fdfa2a69b8b32eae718.jpg

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[cakM3]

About a week ago I was in Providence RI area. I decided to visit my friend, who goes by CAKM3. One funny fact that I didn't know about the Charlie was his pation for old Arcade games. I didn't know that he has that game and keeps it his living room.

My wife is pretty competitive and she wanted to try this game. Apparently. Charlie is very competitive too. It was fun for me watching these two kids playing in 80s game. I thought that my wife and Charlie are grown up adults, but apparently they just kids.

Hey Charlie, fun times my friend. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210302/11835110342ff7034130bdb6786377c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210302/8a0760c15eab8fdfa2a69b8b32eae718.jpg

[emoji41]


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[fredo]

Charlie, do you have Asteroids ? That's my favorite one.

[cakM3]

Charlie, do you have Asteroids ? That's my favorite one.

This is the only arcade game I have fredo


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[joeybananaz18]

I have an irrational fear of airbags lol. Do I need to disconnect the battery if im swapping out the front door panels? I did the two-tone panels over the summer when the battery was dead so i had nothing to worry about. But I need to spruce up one or two of them and one is up front.

[san]

I have an irrational fear of airbags lol. Do I need to disconnect the battery if im swapping out the front door panels? I did the two-tone panels over the summer when the battery was dead so i had nothing to worry about. But I need to spruce up one or two of them and one is up front.

Yeah it’s probably safer. It’s extremely unlikely they’ll go off but disconnecting the battery is so easy compared to dealing with a blown air bag.


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[johnrando]

You don't, but no reason not to to feel safer.

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[az3579]

As the others have mentioned, you do not need to disconnect the battery. With that said, make sure you don't have the key in the ignition turned on, otherwise you'll get an airbag light. As long as you keep the ignition off, you shouldn't have a problem with the airbag light popping on. If you need to turn the ignition on for whatever reason, ensure the airbag is plugged in.

Air bags shouldn't go off if the ignition is not turned on, so that's how you know it won't explode. Even if the ignition was turned on, the crash sensor would have to trigger for it to go off.

As always, you can disconnect the battery if you're still worried about it.

[joeybananaz18]

Thanks guys took care of everything over the weekend. Disconnected just to be on the safe side. wasn't really any extra hassle. Did my new panels and reassembled my center console along while also refinishing a nw black rear storage piece. Going to tackle the storage under the dynavin and should be finished. Thanks again everyone.

[Archbid]

I have an irrational fear of airbags lol. Do I need to disconnect the battery if im swapping out the front door panels? I did the two-tone panels over the summer when the battery was dead so i had nothing to worry about. But I need to spruce up one or two of them and one is up front.

You don't disconnect because it might go off, you disconnect to avoid airbag codes if you accidentally or purposefully detach the connector for the airbag.

You are not going to set off the airbag by working on the door panel. And if the airbag went off, the panel being on or off won't make a difference. ;)

[JPMo]

Any updated information on what's available for fixing the twist feature on the dashboard knobs. I felt a snap when adjusting my clock and now I can only adjust backwards

[John in VA]

Any updated information on what's available for fixing the twist feature on the dashboard knobs. I felt a snap when adjusting my clock and now I can only adjust backwards

50sKid has a video where he replaces the parts from a good working cluster. In the comments it also mentions you can use a program called Navcoder to set the clock in the instrument cluster via the IBUS data network.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3kPO_VeHwM&ab_channel=50sKid

[pedro2u]

Any updated information on what's available for fixing the twist feature on the dashboard knobs. I felt a snap when adjusting my clock and now I can only adjust backwards

I fixed mine in 2018 when I found I guy on eBay in the UK selling the stalk. +1 on the 5-skid video. My repair discussed here:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8698-What-did-you-do-for-your-ZHP-BMW-MINI-today-2/page83 and in post 21535 same thread

[pedro2u]

looks like 3D printers may be what saves all of our aging plastic parts. And cheaper than solving it with the original parts

Just found this part on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-Cluster-Clock-Adjuster-Fix-All-E46-models-US-Seller-Free-Shipping/114623989491?hash=item1ab01f46f3:g:KrwAAOSwM-Zf-3oT

And this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvzb3VyHCto

[t.er]

looks like 3D printers may be what saves all of our aging plastic parts. And cheaper than solving it with the original parts

Just found this part on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-Cluster-Clock-Adjuster-Fix-All-E46-models-US-Seller-Free-Shipping/114623989491?hash=item1ab01f46f3:g:KrwAAOSwM-Zf-3oT

And this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvzb3VyHCto

Yeah, someone posted that on NAM3F a while back - that part costs at most a few cents in material to make. Seems like a 3D printer is a pretty solid investment

[JPMo]

This is amazing! I'm glad the 3D printed stuff is coming to BMWs as ! Just saw a video about the folks in the community making 3D printed, hard to find FD RX7 parts.

I will definitely be purchasing some of these!

[Prestovie]

I’ve got this weird knocking noise/feeling coming from under the foot rest, it’s light but it’s happening every 5 seconds. Only notice it when idling, happens with clutch in our out. Any ideas?


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[pedro2u]

seems like an odd place for a noise to be coming from at idle. Also seems the only thing mechanical mounted near there is the control arm bushing?

[ZHPizza]

I’ve got this weird knocking noise/feeling coming from under the foot rest, it’s light but it’s happening every 5 seconds. Only notice it when idling, happens with clutch in our out. Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMy wagon (auto) has been doing this for years. Nothing's broken yet [emoji1696]

[Galapolis]

I’ve got this weird knocking noise/feeling coming from under the foot rest, it’s light but it’s happening every 5 seconds. Only notice it when idling, happens with clutch in our out. Any ideas?


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My wagon (auto) has been doing this for years. Nothing's broken yet [emoji1696]

Mine started doing the same thing after I replaced the fuel filter. No issues here either for 3 years.

[John in VA]

If it's not one thing...

Working on the 2000 328i to sell to a neighbor's son for his first car, using up the parts I've stashed over the years to make it as safe & reliable as possible. Front & rear brakes, including parking brake shoes & A/C charge done today. And now today the steering rack is leaking! And the electric fan that you can see through the front grilles is not coming on (it's an automatic)!

Is Rack Doctor still the go-to guys for rebuilt racks? Thanks!

[johnrando]

Bummer! Dunno, but GL and keep us posted.

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[cakM3]

Is Rack Doctor still the go-to guys for rebuilt racks? Thanks!

I have not heard anything bad about using Rack Doctor John :thumbsup If I was in a position where I needed a rebuilt rack for my ZHP or M3, these are the guys I would be contacting...

[san]

Is this a good option? I am planning to change the oil pan gasket and looking for an engine support bar

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html


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[pedro2u]

I own that one but haven't used it on my BMW's. I purchased it to replace the motor mounts on my Ford Escape and it worked great.

It's a pretty large single application tool to keep in a home garage though, but I stand mine up beside my QuickJack ready for the next surprise

[san]

I own that one but haven't used it on my BMW's. I purchased it to replace the motor mounts on my Ford Escape and it worked great.

It's a pretty large single application tool to keep in a home garage though, but I stand mine up beside my QuickJack ready for the next surprise

Thanks Pedro. So I’m assuming you’ll have no reservations about using it for the zhp if needed?


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[Will]

Is this a good option? I am planning to change the oil pan gasket and looking for an engine support bar

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html




I own that one but haven't used it on my BMW's. I purchased it to replace the motor mounts on my Ford Escape and it worked great.

It's a pretty large single application tool to keep in a home garage though, but I stand mine up beside my QuickJack ready for the next surprise


That HF engine support bar is sufficient. I agree, with Pedro, it kind of sucks to have a large single-application tool. Is there anyone near to that you can borrow from?

(from my project thread here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22161-04-AW-Blk-coupe-project-(engine-replacement-first)&p=582323#post582323))

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/93VPdR8MMSJIgBswzABR1gEFYIzq2ai18axjDFxc0eVVpm7jy7 18ahONB1BJTvVwryVxAOt3Of7JSKKZdZWMbSSvQQ0aP3qLpSxJ PWamHdjSpsbEIYQS_HAAijjJYwRCf2aqDPEKmSCYNp8lqyh1PM jpzxsRK2Mihp9m3t7IX6zlvpAMyQmyAuXiT04S5noDOEmfrZk_ nGmcCOoTdd8XM44A2hEjHAitJVFTSYWwYBeUTuw4mcPRdzsO0s _KSrck02LcEnqaPGW_xUF6S7OLdSOfmW_5pHx4vo8HCU3ePRal qZXLCoX7148PpqSWxuJJ3XEEyvIprBQxIXWQvZ5588fnFCOBsf mROz_myTTd0S5CyTvnHe23IuGcs5SPK9HODYp4cH9E56ysJAy8 zF4g-xiaA3yuRfh_Lcbnlx5MyC5kgrTQK53hKWbeNr6e5zvCRRvufCJ e7vaRW2JAMgycA1Hv1Yaa_NnALJyEIH3d9_ECNR92_QIUUEO5_ Xi46ucd9qNLozCbGrfaKXrwwRVIPhhG1NXCRPTHMbwq0vpaaOL akNcfHFiCxzfqq6LggnNSV92SAi7sy1JusHZCBV28cNwzbyC7k Tsmiw6m1UxLenGxjwNm6KmqNuiQOjXN1-HNtzwXNFl6wkyI9ZbbAQpdRjMJThnZWLk=w931-h698-no

[san]

That HF engine support bar is sufficient. I agree, with Pedro, it kind of sucks to have a large single-application tool. Is there anyone near to that you can borrow from?

(from my project thread here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22161-04-AW-Blk-coupe-project-(engine-replacement-first)&p=582323#post582323))

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/93VPdR8MMSJIgBswzABR1gEFYIzq2ai18axjDFxc0eVVpm7jy7 18ahONB1BJTvVwryVxAOt3Of7JSKKZdZWMbSSvQQ0aP3qLpSxJ PWamHdjSpsbEIYQS_HAAijjJYwRCf2aqDPEKmSCYNp8lqyh1PM jpzxsRK2Mihp9m3t7IX6zlvpAMyQmyAuXiT04S5noDOEmfrZk_ nGmcCOoTdd8XM44A2hEjHAitJVFTSYWwYBeUTuw4mcPRdzsO0s _KSrck02LcEnqaPGW_xUF6S7OLdSOfmW_5pHx4vo8HCU3ePRal qZXLCoX7148PpqSWxuJJ3XEEyvIprBQxIXWQvZ5588fnFCOBsf mROz_myTTd0S5CyTvnHe23IuGcs5SPK9HODYp4cH9E56ysJAy8 zF4g-xiaA3yuRfh_Lcbnlx5MyC5kgrTQK53hKWbeNr6e5zvCRRvufCJ e7vaRW2JAMgycA1Hv1Yaa_NnALJyEIH3d9_ECNR92_QIUUEO5_ Xi46ucd9qNLozCbGrfaKXrwwRVIPhhG1NXCRPTHMbwq0vpaaOL akNcfHFiCxzfqq6LggnNSV92SAi7sy1JusHZCBV28cNwzbyC7k Tsmiw6m1UxLenGxjwNm6KmqNuiQOjXN1-HNtzwXNFl6wkyI9ZbbAQpdRjMJThnZWLk=w931-h698-no

No one I know close by has it unfortunately. Guess I’ll be the one mending it out to others lol

Thank you for the responses!


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[Will]

No one I know close by has it unfortunately. Guess I’ll be the one mending it out to others lol

Thank you for the responses!


Be sure to use a HF 20% (or greater) coupon when purchasing. Also, be safe while underneath the car, esp while the engine is suspended. Perhaps stick a wheel or two underneath the engine/trans while the subframe is out.

Keep us posted with how it goes.

[Chaplian]

Is this a good option? I am planning to change the oil pan gasket and looking for an engine support bar

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html


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I’ve used this to do engine mounts on multiple BMWs, and will continue to use it, the only thing I’m careful about is where I mount it on the fender inner lip and how, since I don’t want to damage the paint.


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[pedro2u]

I’ve used this to do engine mounts on multiple BMWs, and will continue to use it, the only thing I’m careful about is where I mount it on the fender inner lip and how, since I don’t want to damage the paint.


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+1

[ZHPizza]

I think we all have that damn thing in our garages because we're just spaced out enough to not be able to share them lol

[san]

I’m planning to tackle it this weekend at a friends place. Any good DIY guides you guys recommend? I was going to use the 50s kid YouTube video...


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[pedro2u]

I haven't needed to do mine, but agree 50sKid has a really good video, and he actually uses the HF Bar too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1c2wfo4-jw

[papa_g]

I used that for my mounts and OPG too! Works, and I keep it around for the next time

[pedro2u]

I used that for my mounts and OPG too! Works, and I keep it around for the next time

True, but mine has been standing in that corner for 4+ years :cigar

I guess that's a good thing :fingerscrossed

[san]

Are dr.colorchip products still the best way to get rid off paint chips?


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[az3579]

Are dr.colorchip products still the best way to get rid off paint chips?


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A respray is the best way to get rid of chips. All touch-up does is fill it in.

[san]

A respray is the best way to get rid of chips. All touch-up does is fill it in.

I guess is I should’ve specified short of respraying lol


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[az3579]

I guess is I should’ve specified short of respraying lol


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAh...

Well Dr. Colorchip is easy to apply, though most of my chips are again easily visible. Not sure if they're new chips or of the applied paint flaked off. If I had to do it again, I would use the kit again due to ease of use.

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[fredo]

Are dr.colorchip products still the best way to get rid off paint chips?

Dr ColorChip worked well for me. Check these before and after pics:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15710-Fredo-s-ZHP-Project&p=555754#post555754

[san]

Ah...

Well Dr. Colorchip is easy to apply, though most of my chips are again easily visible. Not sure if they're new chips or of the applied paint flaked off. If I had to do it again, I would use the kit again due to ease of use.

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Dr ColorChip worked well for me. Check these before and after pics:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15710-Fredo-s-ZHP-Project&p=555754#post555754

Thanks BP and Fredo!


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[Prestovie]

Any idea how to get these stains out of alcantara? Left my window cracked last week during a light rain, figured it’d have dried by now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210411/fe1624a85036d5d2620b2345c1f56804.jpg


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[zhpnsnv]

If you don't have sonax alcantara cleaner on hand, I'd start with a gentle mix of all purpose cleaner and water and a microfiber towel.

Spray onto the towel and dab it to see if anything changes. Get incrementally more product involved from there.

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[John in VA]

If you don't have sonax alcantara cleaner on hand, I'd start with a gentle mix of all purpose cleaner and water and a microfiber towel.
A little Woolite Darks will do the job, too.
https://www.woolite.us/products/woolitereg-darks/woolitereg-darks/

[Prestovie]

If you don't have sonax alcantara cleaner on hand, I'd start with a gentle mix of all purpose cleaner and water and a microfiber towel.

Spray onto the towel and dab it to see if anything changes. Get incrementally more product involved from there.

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Oh right on, I can't believe I haven't picked that up before!

[JPMo]

From my understanding it has never been changed and I'm at about 158k miles. Sound doesn't go away with driving, but I only hear it when idling and I'm standing outside. It's pretty constant.

I guess next question is how urgent is replacing it since I'm only getting noise? I'm not getting any stuttering or fuel level issues but it looks like I'm way overdue.So update on this. I did indeed get a fuel pump from FCP Euro and did the switch myself. Turns out the fuel pump was definitely replaced as the clamps were where the screw in type and the fuel lines had damage on it from somebody taking them out before. I probably shouldn't have changed it out but I did anyways in the sound persists. Best I can describe it as is like the electrical hum of a fluorescent lamp. Oh well... The money pit BMW continues

[cakM3]

Oh well... The money pit BMW continues

I call it a labor of love :)

[John in VA]

I probably shouldn't have changed it out but I did anyways in the sound persists. Best I can describe it as is like the electrical hum of a fluorescent lamp. Oh well... The money pit BMW continues
You're taking the medical community's approach - you've (hopefully) ruled out the fuel pump!

[BMWCurves]

Your taking the medical community's approach - you've (hopefully) ruled out the fuel pump!

Red flag symptoms: car is on fire.

[JPMo]

You're taking the medical community's approach - you've (hopefully) ruled out the fuel pump!

Funny enough I am in medicine. Guess the fundamentals stick with you lol

[BMWCurves]

Funny enough I am in medicine. Guess the fundamentals stick with you lol

I forgot to ask, did you match this year? Or are you about to be PGY-2?

[BMWCurves]

Does anyone know if there is anything special to removing this plastic/rubber seal on the inside portion of the OEM LED taillight (item #9)? I can't identify any snap in clips, so it should slide right out, but I can't get it to slide off for the life of me.

37967

Part no. 63216933017/63216933018

[san]

Are these still the go to coils for our cars?


https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-12138616153-1


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[Vas]

Are these still the go to coils for our cars?


https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-12138616153-1


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes they are.

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[Archbid]

I would go with the Eldor. BMW moved to them after Delphi.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273

Ignore the fitment. These work in the m54

[alexandre]

I would go with the Eldor. BMW moved to them after Delphi.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-direct-ignition-coil-eldor-12138657273

Ignore the fitment. These work in the m54

Yep, I put these in my car 2 years ago. No complaints.

[san]

Thanks Guys.

I will likely go with the Delphi ones since they seem to save me >$50 and with fcp warranty, I can replace them sooner for free if they don’t last as long.


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[roddykar]

Has anyone ever dealt with shipping through uship, or getting a full interior from east coast to west? Have a lead on a set of cinnamon I need to setup shipping for to my city from them.

[Will]

Has anyone ever dealt with shipping through uship, or getting a full interior from east coast to west? Have a lead on a set of cinnamon I need to setup shipping for to my city from them.

I used Uship.com to send an engine back to TX. They have an easy to use interface (e.g. selecting options such as tailgate necessary since I don't have a forklift, residential address, etc), and they were the cheapest I could find in my limited search. Ultimately they brokered the shipment through UPS Freight, but the pricing was better than the quote I initially got directly from UPS.

Packaging will be up to the sender. They'll need to palletize the shipment and hopefully protect it accordingly.

[roddykar]

I see. Thanks for this info. So for the seats, door panels and such—do I just order one large pallet and have them fit everything on there? Not sure what the guy is gonna do in terms of shipping safety, can’t expect much other than maybe wrapping the seats in some film

[cakM3]

I see. Thanks for this info. So for the seats, door panels and such—do I just order one large pallet and have them fit everything on there? Not sure what the guy is gonna do in terms of shipping safety, can’t expect much other than maybe wrapping the seats in some film

I have seen front seats shipped two ways...

the shipper used lots of card board and wrapped the seats in card board and used lots of packaging tape. How he wrapped the seats showed the general shape and the seats arrived unscathed remarkably.

The other way I have seen seats shipped is by a pallet where the seats were mounted on the pallet then tie wrapped to them so they would not move and then wood paneling nailed to the pallet with wood boards serving as a skeleton to form a big wooden box to ship the seats. (much more expensive way but the seats were guaranteed not to be harmed at all... this is how my Porsche Adaptive Sport Seats arrived.

[roddykar]

Damn! I'm in a weird spot. Found a guy willing to sell me his full interior in the e̶a̶s̶t̶ ̶c̶o̶a̶s̶t̶ midwest, but really preferred to only sell local until I convinced him. Told him I'll have Uship come and pick it up to make it easy for him, but I doubt he will do any packing or anything. He was pretty much refusing to ship until I had pressured him to do so :p

Trying to figure out quotes right now, but this may not work out--seems like.

[sillieidiot]

Damn! I'm in a weird spot. Found a guy willing to sell me his full interior in the east coast, but really preferred to only sell local until I convinced him. Told him I'll have Uship come and pick it up to make it easy for him, but I doubt he will do any packing or anything. He was pretty much refusing to ship until I had pressured him to do so :p

Trying to figure out quotes right now, but this may not work out--seems like.

that makes sense. packing is a PIA.

If it's a great deal, road trip and go get it? lol

[t.er]

Damn! I'm in a weird spot. Found a guy willing to sell me his full interior in the east coast, but really preferred to only sell local until I convinced him. Told him I'll have Uship come and pick it up to make it easy for him, but I doubt he will do any packing or anything. He was pretty much refusing to ship until I had pressured him to do so [emoji14]

Trying to figure out quotes right now, but this may not work out--seems like.
that makes sense. packing is a PIA.

If it's a great deal, road trip and go get it? lolThis is where the power of the forum/community comes in! It would be nice if someone local could buy it on your behalf and act as the middle man to check its condition and negotiate. Then you could drive down or have it shipped without as much worry.

A lot easier said than done though

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[sillieidiot]

This is where the power of the forum/community comes in! It would be nice if someone local could buy it on your behalf and act as the middle man to check its condition and negotiate. Then you could drive down or have it shipped without as much worry.

A lot easier said than done though

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

We've done that back in the day. Not sure about here. But on e46f. We moved something across the country through a series of fanatics lol I forgot what it was though.

[ItsRichieRich]

We've done that back in the day. Not sure about here. But on e46f. We moved something across the country through a series of fanatics lol I forgot what it was though.

This is big on Tacomaworld.com for when guys needed things moved when bought/sold.

Roddykar, maybe post up the info to see if anyone on the forums can help? Maybe post on the ZHP facebook too.

[t.er]

Yeah, forums were a lot more active ~10 years ago, when social media wasn't as big as it was. Now everything seems to be migrating to fb groups or instagram. My local BMW forum (maxbimmer) was pretty big back in the day, now there's like 1 post every 2 or 3 days of just spam or people selling stuff

[BADCLOWN]

Does anyone know what M logo fits on the ZHP steering wheel trim?

I bought 2-3 different kinds of eBay a while back and none of them are the correct sizing.

[cakM3]

Does anyone know what M logo fits on the ZHP steering wheel trim?

I bought 2-3 different kinds of eBay a while back and none of them are the correct sizing.

You can order one from here Jacob :cool
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51170332511_dedd9c03db_b.jpg

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/m-tech-i-steering-wheel-badge-priced-each/32332226479/

The badge itself is attached to the two posts with double-sided tape. Just remove the badge and then reapply new double-sided tape and replace the badge on the M-Spoke lower steering wheel trim. I will confirm this since I just ordered this part :)

[roddykar]

that makes sense. packing is a PIA.
If it's a great deal, road trip and go get it? lol
I thought about it actually. Looked up flights, checked truck rental prices. Costs end up being pretty damn high, but time spent ends up even more.


This is where the power of the forum/community comes in! It would be nice if someone local could buy it on your behalf and act as the middle man to check its condition and negotiate. Then you could drive down or have it shipped without as much worry.

A lot easier said than done though
Agreed. I just need to make the guy feel like I'm not trying to scam him or do some chargeback. I've created a purchase agreement for now that'll maybe quell some fears. but we'll see if he signs it.


This is big on Tacomaworld.com for when guys needed things moved when bought/sold.
Roddykar, maybe post up the info to see if anyone on the forums can help? Maybe post on the ZHP facebook too. Didn't even know there was a ZHP Facebook. How can I guarantee posting it there wouldn't get my set sniped :rofl sounds sinister, I know. But I've been looking for almost 6 months and a full cinnamon has been a major pain.

[Will]

I thought about it actually. Looked up flights, checked truck rental prices. Costs end up being pretty damn high, but time spent ends up even more.


Agreed. I just need to make the guy feel like I'm not trying to scam him or do some chargeback. I've created a purchase agreement for now that'll maybe quell some fears. but we'll see if he signs it.

Didn't even know there was a ZHP Facebook. How can I guarantee posting it there wouldn't get my set sniped :rofl sounds sinister, I know. But I've been looking for almost 6 months and a full cinnamon has been a major pain.



What if you skipped the truck and just flew out, pack and palletize for Uship, and then flew home? You might be able to do it in one day, or a short two days. Then 1) this set wouldn't get sniped, 2) you can pack and protect to your hearts content.

Less in time and money than driving a set back from east coast.

[roddykar]

What if you skipped the truck and just flew out, pack and palletize for Uship, and then flew home? You might be able to do it in one day, or a short two days. Then 1) this set wouldn't get sniped, 2) you can pack and protect to your hearts content.

Less in time and money than driving a set back from east coast.
Wow. this aint a bad idea at all. Going to look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.

[sillieidiot]

What if you skipped the truck and just flew out, pack and palletize for Uship, and then flew home? You might be able to do it in one day, or a short two days. Then 1) this set wouldn't get sniped, 2) you can pack and protect to your hearts content.

Less in time and money than driving a set back from east coast.

+1 I feel like flights shouldn't cost that much. Just look for the cheapest flight you can get. Only need a backpack so like basic economy should be good enough.

what state is the stuff in? Maine? lol