The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[Will]

I guess it could be a tire balancing issue but the weights are all still on, not like its a new set of wheels. Just had the car aligned a few weeks ago with the winters on. I may have just been unlucky and accidentally rotated my tires because I didn't have them marked.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm waiting for it to be something simple but I've looked over everything.
Symptoms: wobble at any speed, seems to be consistent at anywhere from 10mph to 45mph(highest I've gone with this problem), steering wheel bucking back and forth, audible "wubbing" coming from the rear.

Just some guesses off the top of my head:
- wheel / tire balance?
- directional tires rotating backwards?
- rust on the mounting face(s)?
- flat spots in your tires?
- recheck the torque of your lugs

Doesn't seem safe to drive.

Swap back your winter wheels/tires and see if the problem persists.

[ZHPizza]

Just some guesses off the top of my head:
- wheel / tire balance?
- directional tires rotating backwards?
- rust on the mounting face(s)?
- flat spots in your tires?
- recheck the torque of your lugs

Doesn't seem safe to drive.

Swap back your winter wheels/tires and see if the problem persists.Also how were they stored through the winter? Do unloaded tires flat spot?

[Prestovie]

Just some guesses off the top of my head:
- wheel / tire balance?
- directional tires rotating backwards?
- rust on the mounting face(s)?
- flat spots in your tires?
- recheck the torque of your lugs

Doesn't seem safe to drive.

Swap back your winter wheels/tires and see if the problem persists.
Appreciate the ideas, it might just be that they're out of balance which is what im hoping for. style 135's so nondirectional, gone over every bolt twice now and surfaces were clean but I didn't check for flat spots so I'll have to take a gander tomorrow. Probably a good idea to just put the winters back on, though :thumbup


Also how were they stored through the winter? Do unloaded tires flat spot?
Not proud of it but they were stacked up in my driveway with a tarp and bungee cord to cover. They all still hold air though so I'm hoping the winter didn't damage them.

[stephenkirsh]

I notice my PSS tires get a flat spot if they sit for 2 weeks. It usually takes a decent amount of miles (40?) to round out again.

A harder tire might take longer to round back out. It’s just a guess.

[BADCLOWN]

Any recommendations on oil? I’ve used mobil1 full synthetic in the past but wondering what may be out there that’s potentially better

[rguti153]

Any recommendations on oil? I’ve used mobil1 full synthetic in the past but wondering what may be out there that’s potentially betterWondering the same

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[Vas]

Liqui moly from fcpeuro.

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[Galapolis]

I second Liqui Moly.

I've also been happy with Pennzoil + BG MOA 110 though.

[DeathTrap]

Brotella is good too

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[Prestovie]

I notice my PSS tires get a flat spot if they sit for 2 weeks. It usually takes a decent amount of miles (40?) to round out again.

A harder tire might take longer to round back out. It’s just a guess.

Appreciate the input, will definitely monitor over the next couple weeks seeing that I don't get out to drive as much anymore, might take a little longer to even out

[tomnobes]

Hate to do this but I think I might be selling my beloved zhp due to a new job that requires me to drive a mile on a rough dirt road at a construction site...(the car basically just sits now that I don't drive it to work). It's been a great car for me, very mechanically sound. Little over 150k, jet black, natural brown, manual.. keep an eye out for a for sale post in the coming weeks. If someone is interested they are welcome to message me but I'll put all the info in the post when the time comes. (there are a few things I will likely fix up before selling unless someone wants to take it off my hands at a reduced price before I get the time to work on it) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/c9ed8a92c76d67bf7eb25b4501dca25d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200414/39a43ee12e37ea694be77151e013fb58.jpg

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[papa_g]

Can someone confirm whether or not this gasket would work for the fuel pump in our ZHPs?
P/N 16141182905

This one below is the official seal, but it is more expensive, maybe because it's made of a different material?
P/N 16111184084

Looking to buy from FCP Euro. The price difference between top and bottom is ~$7

[droman81]

How much should a clean set Of AL headlights go for? Also have an unknown set of halos installed.


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[rguti153]

How much should a clean set Of AL headlights go for? Also have an unknown set of halos installed.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJust do a retrofit bro from the retrofitsource

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[DeathTrap]

Can someone confirm whether or not this gasket would work for the fuel pump in our ZHPs?
P/N 16141182905

This one below is the official seal, but it is more expensive, maybe because it's made of a different material?
P/N 16111184084

Looking to buy from FCP Euro. The price difference between top and bottom is ~$7ECS says the top one works. I guess you could call them and see if they know?

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[pedro2u]

I was just looking at Autohausaz, and for the fuel pump it says:

Description:
For M52/M54 standard engine E46 models, NOT used on any M56 SULEV models. Also need 16141182905 seal o-ring or 16111184084 seal ring. 1 per car..

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/16146752499

[papa_g]

Nice thanks guys. I’ll order the cheaper one then. Genuine bmw too apparently


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[az3579]

How much should a clean set Of AL headlights go for? Also have an unknown set of halos installed.


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Clean sets of ALs are typically $400-500 from what I've seen. Sometimes you can find them slightly cheaper at $350-400 but those are harder to find.

[Dual]

I can't figure out how to unsubscribe from all my subscribed threads. I have 199 of them and I want to unsubscribe from them all in one operation. I've repeatedly visited http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/subscription.php but I can't find how to do a bulk unsubscribe there. Any help much appreciated – thanks!

[pedro2u]

I actually don't have subscriptions, but I just looked at how to do it. Do you just delete the folder name like it says here?: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/subscription.php?do=editfolders

[Dual]

Thanks, Pedro. It appears I can't do anything to that particular folder – just message folders that I've created

[pedro2u]

Well I only have one subscription that got added the day I joined the site (not created by me). But in this example it looks like you can check the box(es) I circled and then choose delete subscription? Maybe? Just trying to help :dunno

[Dual]

It does nothing for me. I really appreciate your help with this but I think we've hit a dead end

[Vas]

Has anyone replaced the protective cap on top of the thermostat connector? Having a hard time finding it in real oem. A part number would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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[JPMo]

Anybody have an idea as to why my original style 135 and replacement style 135 with the same part number (36117896470) have different style hubs?

Tried to have it mounted today and the tire shop couldn't get it to sit flush. I'm gonna have to send them back... It's always something with this car[emoji2959]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/4425fb68eef189621f6abd893dce8936.jpg

[johnrando]

Whoa! Will be interested to see why this is.

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[pedro2u]

Anybody have an idea as to why my original style 135 and replacement style 135 with the same part number (36117896470) have different style hubs?

Tried to have it mounted today and the tire shop couldn't get it to sit flush. I'm gonna have to send them back... It's always something with this car[emoji2959]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/4425fb68eef189621f6abd893dce8936.jpg

curious why it wouldn't sit flush. Although they look slightly different, it looks like the mounting surface to the hub is just about the same

[JPMo]

curious why it wouldn't sit flush. Although they look slightly different, it looks like the mounting surface to the hub is just about the sameThat's what I thought too, I may have to try another shop. I went to a generic tire shop. It's hard finding quality service in middle Ga.

[pedro2u]

I just did a Google image search for BMW Style 135 wheels and found another different example of the hub mating surface. Maybe multiple manufacturers of the OEM wheels? Or replicas?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/life_iz_life/9295986689

[JPMo]

I just did a Google image search for BMW Style 135 wheels and found another different example of the hub mating surface. Maybe multiple manufacturers of the OEM wheels? Or replicas?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/life_iz_life/9295986689So strange. Mine is from ECS tuning so I would hope it's not a replica.

[Will]

Looks like they changed back-side designs. What are the date stamps on each wheel?

[stephenkirsh]

I know there’s an e60 version of the wheel that was sold in the US. I’m pretty sure they had different part numbers, though.

Maybe not?

[JPMo]

Looks like they changed back-side designs. What are the date stamps on each wheel?

Not sure, didn’t think to check that. I can look at the new one and see.


I know there’s an e60 version of the wheel that was sold in the US. I’m pretty sure they had different part numbers, though.

Maybe not?

I believe the E60 version have a different offset but not sure about the part number. I’d imagine they’d be different

[Prestovie]

Anybody know the part number for the exterior trim for the sedans? The silver on mine are starting to flake and instead of sanding them down and trying to match again I'm thinking of just going back to the matte black... maybe gloss

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody know the part number for the exterior trim for the sedans? The silver on mine are starting to flake and instead of sanding them down and trying to match again I'm thinking of just going back to the matte black... maybe gloss

Not sure of the part #’s but I think I have a set of exterior trims in my basement I believe, but they’re faded. Would be a good opportunity to get some aerosol trim paint to get them to all match.


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[Galapolis]

Not the answer you're looking for either but I just bought a cheap set of replica trim from China on eBay and it's been holding up really well and looks indistinguishable from the real thing.

[Prestovie]

Not sure of the part #’s but I think I have a set of exterior trims in my basement I believe, but they’re faded. Would be a good opportunity to get some aerosol trim paint to get them to all match.


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If you're willing to part I would definitely take them off your hands! Seems like you're more than a stones throw away, though, so not sure what shipping would look like from NY to Chicago in a bigger box


Not the answer you're looking for either but I just bought a cheap set of replica trim from China on eBay and it's been holding up really well and looks indistinguishable from the real thing.

I'll actually look into that, never thought of going that route :biggrin

[ZHP_Brandon]

If you're willing to part I would definitely take them off your hands! Seems like you're more than a stones throw away, though, so not sure what shipping would look like from NY to Chicago in a bigger box



I'll actually look into that, never thought of going that route :biggrin

Yeah I’d be happy to part ways! Only down side is I don’t believe it’s a complete set, PM me so I can provide pictures for you. I don’t think shipping would be too much, I can try to put it in a small box


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[JPMo]

curious why it wouldn't sit flush. Although they look slightly different, it looks like the mounting surface to the hub is just about the same


Whoa! Will be interested to see why this is.

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I just did a Google image search for BMW Style 135 wheels and found another different example of the hub mating surface. Maybe multiple manufacturers of the OEM wheels? Or replicas?


Well, just got a response from ECS Tuning. Rep states that he thinks BMW changed the cast in order to prevent rust build up between the wheel and hub, ultimately leading to a wheel thats easier to remove in the future. Makes a lot of sense and driving around with the new, less flush wheel has been fine so I'm ok with it. Gonna get a replacement rear soon.

[johnrando]

Less difficult to remove in thw new cast?

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[JPMo]

Sorry, the new cast is supposed to prevent rust build up thus making the wheel easier to remove

[johnrando]

K. Thot so, thx. Even tho it's not as flush, can you tell just by looking at them when on the car?

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[JPMo]

K. Thot so, thx. Even tho it's not as flush, can you tell just by looking at them when on the car?

Sent from my SM-G988U using TapatalkYes you actually can although very subtle. These were the photos I sent to ECS. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/d8b9015e8347bd6ba202d0566ab01698.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/b4657560591217829bf453a45d3eb0a2.jpg

[az3579]

^ Looks flush to me...
I thought maybe you were referring to the actual mating surface not being flush, but it looks correct in that picture.

[Chaplian]

^ Looks flush to me...
I thought maybe you were referring to the actual mating surface not being flush, but it looks correct in that picture.

x2 Everything looks fine. A lot of new manufacturers are doing that design. Pretty sure my Mazda’s OEM 18s have a similar seat, I’ve had no problems in the 60k miles I’ve had the car.


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[JPMo]

Yes I was referring to the mating surfaces. That small gap wasn't present on my other 4 OEM wheels which is why the tire shop bought it to my attention

[ZHP_Brandon]

Would bad/failed FCABS cause a change in brake bias? Whenever I depress the brake pedal passed a quarter of the way down, it almost feels like abs turns on as I get the pedal to kick me back. It happens no matter what speed I’m at as well.


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[Vas]

Would bad/failed FCABS cause a change in brake bias? Whenever I depress the brake pedal passed a quarter of the way down, it almost feels like abs turns on as I get the pedal to kick me back. It happens no matter what speed I’m at as well.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThey will not. This sounds more of an issue with the actual braking system.

Are the same type of pads used on the front vs the rear of the vehicle? Last time a brake fluid flush was done? A caliper piston could be not retracting fully but not dragging to the extent of lock up.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

They will not. This sounds more of an issue with the actual braking system.

Are the same type of pads used on the front vs the rear of the vehicle? Last time a brake fluid flush was done? A caliper piston could be not retracting fully but not dragging to the extent of lock up.

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Ah, I was hoping it was something that simple since I have a front overhaul to do soon anyhow.

I scanned my car with the car on and I received this fault in the abs/dsc module: “5DF4 - absent - ABS-DSC: system voltage below 9V”

But this to me sounds like an electronic failure or fault of some sensor, which normally I’d be okay with but the physical feeling of being pushed back is coming from the break pedal itself. Brake fluid flush hasn’t been done in some time, I’m tempted to remove both front wheels and just simply inspect both pistons.

If the universe wasn’t more ironic than it is, I JUST secured a set of 135i brake calipers. Front and rears. But I was hoping I didn’t have to install them for some time since last summer I installed Zimmerman rotors & akebono euro ceramics all around.

Not sure how to proceed besides inspecting the two front calipers since it feels like a front end lock up.


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[BADCLOWN]

Anybody know if the CF BMWP shift knobs for the F chassis cars fit the E46?

25112222533

Anyone know a place that sells weighted ZHP shift knobs with carbon fiber/alcantara?

trying to decide between the above two options as a replacement

[t.er]

Those who have taken their trunk handle off - was this gasket (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/trunk-lip-grip-gasket/51138244713/) sandwiched between the handle and the trunk itself? I just took mine off to install a reverse camera and it was missing.

[Will]

Those who have taken their trunk handle off - was this gasket (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/trunk-lip-grip-gasket/51138244713/) sandwiched between the handle and the trunk itself? I just took mine off to install a reverse camera and it was missing.

Yup, just sandwiched.

[t.er]

Yup, just sandwiched.

Thank you. Luckily the local stealership is on-par with pricing from ECS Tuning (which is only $4 USD more than FCP Euro) with the conversion rate so at least I can install this fairly soon!

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone know of or use a good company for CF work? I wanna have an 8pc interior trim for sedan and steering wheel trim done?

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anyone know of or use a good company for CF work? I wanna have an 8pc interior trim for sedan and steering wheel trim done?

I believe NelsonRacingWheel is a great company, Owner/Manager owns a ZHP coupe. I had shopped them for a dry carbon alternative to our cubed trim a while back but I wasn’t ready for the price at the time. Be ready to pay a premium, or at the very least source a set of wooden trim to do this on a spare set. Good luck!


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Does anyone have a way of contacting terraphtm? Want some coding done and I know it’s something he could do. Lost track of him a while back and haven’t been able to get a response since


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[704sw]

Does anyone have a way of contacting terraphtm? Want some coding done and I know it’s something he could do. Lost track of him a while back and haven’t been able to get a response since


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I see his username somewhat frequently on Reddit. You could try PM’ing him on there if you’re a Reddit user.

And FWIW it’s spelled TerraPhantm.

[ZHP_Brandon]

I see his username somewhat frequently on Reddit. You could try PM’ing him on there if you’re a Reddit user.

And FWIW it’s spelled TerraPhantm.

I don’t use reddit, I guess I’ll have to hop on there one of these days.
Thanks for that!

Sorry I haven’t responded, Tapatalk refuses to load any of my messages without an error message -_-.... or load a single photo


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[NYRhockey]

Need ideas on what else could be wrong.

Naturally with all this shut down garbage the zhp sits a lot so i make an effort to drive it for about half hr every weekend, but when i come home and turn it off the oil light goes yellow and stays on for about 10 seconds.

- Checked the oil this Sunday and level seems fine
- Oil change was done Sep 2019 at 62.8k miles, and it’s at 64.6k now. Oil level sender was changed at this visit as well
- OPG was changed Oct 2018 at 57.7k miles
- Engine bay looks clean with no signs of leak


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[NYRhockey]

36594
36595

It's a bit difficult to see the oil level from this picture, but the entire rectangular block was wet. Car must not have been leve where it was parked because if you flipped over the stick, the rectangular block was only wet 1/3 of the way up on the other side.

[Dr Dynamite]

Has anyone experienced the pump the clutch 20 times till it starts? I replaced the clutch start switch already but it didnt fix it

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[ZHP_Brandon]

36594
36595

It's a bit difficult to see the oil level from this picture, but the entire rectangular block was wet. Car must not have been leve where it was parked because if you flipped over the stick, the rectangular block was only wet 1/3 of the way up on the other side.

How’s your CCV? Might want to double check that system or tackle it in the future if you haven’t done so already, I had an intermittent light like that a few months back and it turned out to be a clogged CCV. After the cold months subsided I’ve recently taken it on a few long drives and it has some vacuum pressure again, but no where near as much as it should.

I’m doing an M56 valve cover instead personally


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[704sw]

It's a bit difficult to see the oil level from this picture, but the entire rectangular block was wet. Car must not have been leve where it was parked because if you flipped over the stick, the rectangular block was only wet 1/3 of the way up on the other side.

I’m thinking level sensor is failing. The sensor is in the back left part of the pan where the deepest collection area is (see pic), so unless you were parked on an extremely steep nose-down slope I can’t imagine it being steep enough to trigger the light.

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/262942_x800.jpg

[ZHPizza]

@NYRhockey

FYI the dipstick on these cars is an absolute sack of shit. I was getting the yellow oil light after shutdown with the dipstick looking fat & sassy like yours, so I'm like bruh that oil level sensor is going no doy.

Ordered a new one and went to replace it and only drained like 5qts from the pan

Stupid ass dipstick never even hinted at it being low

[Thatguy_JZ]

Anyone know of or use a good company for CF work? I wanna have an 8pc interior trim for sedan and steering wheel trim done?Fibreworks Composites in Moorseville, NC. They make parts for Haas F1 and more. If you talk to Alex, tell him Jim refered you. He's a BMW enthusiast as well.

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[Galapolis]

@NYRhockey

FYI the dipstick on these cars is an absolute sack of shit. I was getting the yellow oil light after shutdown with the dipstick looking fat & sassy like yours, so I'm like bruh that oil level sensor is going no doy.

Ordered a new one and went to replace it and only drained like 5qts from the pan

Stupid ass dipstick never even hinted at it being low

Is that common across our cars? I live by the dipstick especially since I don't have a baffle yet so I always overfill for Autocross but if I can't trust the dip stick then my entire life has been a lie.

[BADCLOWN]

Has anyone experienced the pump the clutch 20 times till it starts? I replaced the clutch start switch already but it didnt fix it

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I had that similar issue over a year ago and it randomly went away.

[stephenkirsh]

Need ideas on what else could be wrong.

Naturally with all this shut down garbage the zhp sits a lot so i make an effort to drive it for about half hr every weekend, but when i come home and turn it off the oil light goes yellow and stays on for about 10 seconds.

- Checked the oil this Sunday and level seems fine
- Oil change was done Sep 2019 at 62.8k miles, and it’s at 64.6k now. Oil level sender was changed at this visit as well
- OPG was changed Oct 2018 at 57.7k miles
- Engine bay looks clean with no signs of leak


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Have you added oil? You can easily over full by 1/2 qrt without issues. In fact, I overfill before every track day.

[t.er]

Is that common across our cars? I live by the dipstick especially since I don't have a baffle yet so I always overfill for Autocross but if I can't trust the dip stick then my entire life has been a lie.

+1 to this. I probably check my oil every other, or every 3 weeks. Not sure how a dipstick can have inconsistent readings though


Have you added oil? You can easily over full by 1/2 qrt without issues. In fact, I overfill before every track day.

Yup, this is what I do with each autox I've been doing. Doesn't quite solve lifter tick, but I feel it definitely helps

[az3579]

The dipstick is pretty accurate. Remember BMW has specific instructions for checking your oil, per your owner's manual.
The engine needs to be warmed up, the car on a perfectly level surface, and checked a few minutes after shutting the engine off.

You'll get a different reading when checking it cold versus engine warmed up a few minutes after shutting off.

[ZHPizza]

Is that common across our cars? I live by the dipstick especially since I don't have a baffle yet so I always overfill for Autocross but if I can't trust the dip stick then my entire life has been a lie.



+1 to this. I probably check my oil every other, or every 3 weeks. Not sure how a dipstick can have inconsistent readings though



Yup, this is what I do with each autox I've been doing. Doesn't quite solve lifter tick, but I feel it definitely helps

I also had to overfill a lot to avoid the starvation that caused lifter tick. Oil pan gasket had a leak so I went ahead and put a baffle in the pan and had no lifter tick over 10 runs at my last autocross (with no overfill).


The dipstick is pretty accurate. Remember BMW has specific instructions for checking your oil, per your owner's manual.
The engine needs to be warmed up, the car on a perfectly level surface, and checked a few minutes after shutting the engine off.

You'll get a different reading when checking it cold versus engine warmed up a few minutes after shutting off.

There was never any inconsistency in the dipstick readings I was seeing -- it read dead on the money every time. I would check it per the instructions in my perfectly level garage after shutting down. I checked and checked and checked over minutes, hours, etc and it never moved despite the fact that I could visibly see oil leaking from the valve cover and oil pan gaskets. Would never know I was low until that little light came on!

[NYRhockey]

@NYRhockey

FYI the dipstick on these cars is an absolute sack of shit. I was getting the yellow oil light after shutdown with the dipstick looking fat & sassy like yours, so I'm like bruh that oil level sensor is going no doy.

Ordered a new one and went to replace it and only drained like 5qts from the pan

Stupid ass dipstick never even hinted at it being low

Interesting observation. Think it’s first time hearing about the dipstick being a dipshit.


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[NYRhockey]

Have you added oil? You can easily over full by 1/2 qrt without issues. In fact, I overfill before every track day.

Not yet but was trying to figure out why light is coming on. I understand these engines may consume a bit of oil but given its only been a couple thousand miles since the oil change I thought it’d be leak related.


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[ZHPizza]

Not yet but was trying to figure out why light is coming on. I understand these engines may consume a bit of oil but given its only been a couple thousand miles since the oil change I thought it’d be leak related.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMakes sense. I'd add half a quart (like others said - it's ok to overfill these engines by 1-2qts for autocross) and see if you see a difference on the dipshit and see if the light comes back on.

If the light keeps coming on, then it's the level switch misbehaving.

If the light goes away for the next several drives, then it was low on oil. Note that the light wasn't terribly consistent for me either, which also made me think it was the level sensor.

[DeathTrap]

I think I want to go with gold center faces with a polished lip, like the Avant here. The lowering will come a bit later. Thoughts? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/8b20ae4781384417d2eac3103500cd6c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/492e3b26aa9c96314e45097518c0d7f1.jpg

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[704sw]

I think I want to go with gold center faces with a polished lip, like the Avant here. The lowering will come a bit later. Thoughts?

I like it

[stephenkirsh]

Not yet but was trying to figure out why light is coming on. I understand these engines may consume a bit of oil but given its only been a couple thousand miles since the oil change I thought it’d be leak related.


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The light is coming on because it needs oil.

I don’t understand why you wouldn’t just add some oil to see if it changes. It’s a $3 test that will give you an immediate answer.


There are plenty of people on here that add a quart every 1000 miles. Adding a quart after several thousand isn’t unusual at all.

[NYRhockey]

The light is coming on because it needs oil.

I don’t understand why you wouldn’t just add some oil to see if it changes. It’s a $3 test that will give you an immediate answer.


Well, no shit? Who would have imagined that an oil level light being on meant it needed oil.

How about trying to figure out WHY it's telling me i need to add oil? JFC

[sillieidiot]

Well, no shit? Who would have imagined that an oil level light being on meant it needed oil.

How about trying to figure out WHY it's telling me i need to add oil? JFC

Yeah, I'm pretty sure everyone is telling you to add to oil so we can see if it is indeed a leak or you just didn't put enough last time. They already gave you some reasons why/what it could be and you didn't even act on it yet.

[NYRhockey]

and you didn't even act on it yet.

And you know this because.......

Ah right, you don’t.


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[johnrando]

And you know this because.......

Ah right, you don’t.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThose comments earned you a 3 day ban.

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[sillieidiot]

And you know this because.......

Ah right, you don’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right...They tell you to put more oil in. Instead, what do you do? Argue about why you don't want to. If that's not acting on it, iono what is. I mean if you don't want to do the cheapest and easiest trouble-shooting step, then fine. I got one for you :rofl

There might be something inside your oil pan that is covering the sender causing it to have bad readings. The only way to check is to remove the oil pan to clear it out.

[az3579]

Let's be fair guys... the dipstick was showing completely full. I'm not sure what adding oil is going to do. If his car doesn't use much oil then it's going to be overfilled for quite a long time.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Hey guys, I’ve been reading about retrofitting an E46 M3 cluster into my car... does anyone if there is a definitive part number that can work on a car with MS45?

I’m considering just slapping it in and seeing how much coding I can do on my own but I do have a few questions about other features

Wanted to contact terra about an idea I have to see if it’s possible but still unsuccessful so far, so I’m hoping to not venture to deep into this without ruining something lol

I am unfortunately not sure what year car this came out of but I do know it’s an SMG cluster

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200527/0b8ccd8d099281e0409189ac1cd2dfe7.jpg


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[BADCLOWN]

Im pretty sure you can use any cluster as long as the code is 24H. On the white label on the backside of the cluster it will say "CODE:" and then a 23H or 24H or whatever. As long as its 24H you should be okay, can be SMG or 6MT.

There are guys on here that can correct me if I am wrong but that's what I used. My indy has a guy who does a lot of BMW coding/programming in his spare time and swapped over the chip from my ZHP cluster to my M3 cluster so it didn't get the tamper dot, along with some other coding I preferred.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Im pretty sure you can use any cluster as long as the code is 24H. On the white label on the backside of the cluster it will say "CODE:" and then a 23H or 24H or whatever. As long as its 24H you should be okay, can be SMG or 6MT.

There are guys on here that can correct me if I am wrong but that's what I used. My indy has a guy who does a lot of BMW coding/programming in his spare time and swapped over the chip from my ZHP cluster to my M3 cluster so it didn't get the tamper dot, along with some other coding I preferred.

I’ll have to double check the cluster later on today for sure, That’s great news! I don’t mind getting into coding seeing as to I’ve always wanted to understand it better.

How much did they charge if you don’t mind me asking?


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[BADCLOWN]

I honestly don’t remember how much he charged me, sorry I can’t help there

[Oltorf]

Ok this is a 8/10 randomness questions but - where the heck does this part go:

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=EV53-USA---E46-BMW-330i&mg=41&sg=35&diagId=41_1099&q=51247035332

It has something to do with the hood, that's all I know.

[Prestovie]

Oh, great. Anyone ever had this happen? The weld job was done a few years back on a Vibrant muffler, just cracked off today at startup probably due to driving the terrible roads in Champaign for the past few days.
It... doesn’t sound good
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/135625cb45952d5e1f15025a019f7996.jpg


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[johnrando]

Wow, that sux. So, just weld it back up hopefully? I don't know anything about welding.

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[holyc0w]

That looks like it rusted through. Probably not too much force to break it.

[t.er]

Oh, great. Anyone ever had this happen? The weld job was done a few years back on a Vibrant muffler, just cracked off today at startup probably due to driving the terrible roads in Champaign for the past few days.
It... doesn’t sound good
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had the same thing happen to my mom's Corolla. There might be too much rust to re-weld that seam, so you may have to have a small length cut off from each side, then have a small length of replacement tube welded in. Might be a good idea to spray-bomb high-heat spray paint for further corrosion resistance

[704sw]

Had the same thing happen to my mom's Corolla. There might be too much rust to re-weld that seam, so you may have to have a small length cut off from each side, then have a small length of replacement tube welded in. Might be a good idea to spray-bomb high-heat spray paint for further corrosion resistance

Yea that definitely needs to be cut and a new section added. Still a simple enough task for a competent muffler shop.

Also +1 on the high heat paint. I sprayed the X3’s muffler (purely for aesthetics, not corrosion resistance) back in 2014 with the Rustoleum “BBQ high heat” matte black and it has held up for 6 years just fine.

[Prestovie]

Had the same thing happen to my mom's Corolla. There might be too much rust to re-weld that seam, so you may have to have a small length cut off from each side, then have a small length of replacement tube welded in. Might be a good idea to spray-bomb high-heat spray paint for further corrosion resistance

I was definitely surprised that the weld was never covered, rest of the undercarriage is fine but having that exposed metal was just like a magnet. Wish I knew the first thing about welding lol


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[Prestovie]

Yea that definitely needs to be cut and a new section added. Still a simple enough task for a competent muffler shop.

Also +1 on the high heat paint. I sprayed the X3’s muffler (purely for aesthetics, not corrosion resistance) back in 2014 with the Rustoleum “BBQ high heat” matte black and it has held up for 6 years just fine.

Will definitely be going the route of the high heat paint.
Any chance anyone knows of a temporary fix? Currently the muffler is hanging at 45°. I know i can’t just yank it off because it’s bolted on and not sure if i want to deal with the sound for the next week


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[704sw]

Will definitely be going the route of the high heat paint.
Any chance anyone knows of a temporary fix? Currently the muffler is hanging at 45°. I know i can’t just yank it off because it’s bolted on and not sure if i want to deal with the sound for the next week


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could try one of these sleeve-style band clamps. I’m not 100% convinced it would work, but that’s the best temporary solution I can think of.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nickson-heavy-duty-stainless-steel-flat-exhaust-band-clamp-2-1-2-e25st/10078729-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14983%7CL3*15314

[Prestovie]

You could try one of these sleeve-style band clamps. I’m not 100% convinced it would work, but that’s the best temporary solution I can think of.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nickson-heavy-duty-stainless-steel-flat-exhaust-band-clamp-2-1-2-e25st/10078729-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14983%7CL3*15314

Oh right on, my local shop has it in stock too so I’ll definitely pick that up. Seems like good overall reviews, just can’t imagine the seal being perfect.


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[BADCLOWN]

Are the OE headlight bulbs 5500k?

[az3579]

OE headlight bulbs are 4300k.

[ZHPizza]

Oh right on, my local shop has it in stock too so I’ll definitely pick that up. Seems like good overall reviews, just can’t imagine the seal being perfect.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLocal parts shops will also have exhaust seal tape for this exact situation. You'll want a lot of it lol

[Prestovie]

Local parts shops will also have exhaust seal tape for this exact situation. You'll want a lot of it lol

Well I did a big whoopsie anyway and ordered the wrong size, forgot the Vibrant has a 3” opening vs stock 2.5”. Going to be exchanging tomorrow then wrapping in that exhaust tape


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[BADCLOWN]

OE headlight bulbs are 4300k.

Thanks

[t.er]

Does anyone here have Ground Control Street camber plates? Got a really good deal on a used set.

Only thing is that just by hand, I was able to easily pull apart the two, which pulls apart the bearing. The bearing looks okay, and the self-aligning features in the bearing mean it pushes together fine. It also rotates relatively smoothly, though I may re-grease since there's a hint of "crunchiness" which I suspect is just some dirt. Just want to be sure I'm not missing any parts here.

​
https://i.imgur.com/A99NWyJl.jpghttp://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==​

https://i.imgur.com/sMHuDfcl.jpghttp://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==​​

EDIT: Well I just answered my own questions by calling Ground Control. Yes, the two halves are supposed to come apart by hand. They also said to use Marine Grease for regreasing. There is limited caster adjustment, as the slots in the billet piece are wider than the studs.

[Galapolis]

Let us know how the ride is. Looks like they are solid metal.

[t.er]

Let us know how the ride is. Looks like they are solid metal.Hopefully they're okay. There is a bit of rubber in there, albeit much less than OE strut tops:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/338066c27efb27c92e44b489afd58278.jpg

[704sw]

EDIT: Well I just answered my own questions by calling Ground Control. Yes, the two halves are supposed to come apart by hand. They also said to use Marine Grease for regreasing. There is limited caster adjustment, as the slots in the billet piece are wider than the studs.

Ground Control has famously bad customer service, so I’m impressed you got an answer. Knowing that, I still attempted to ask them a question about their articulating spring jacks (or something related to rear coilover parts, I don’t even remember anymore) and never got a response. Followed up twice, nada.

TCK at least had the decency to respond to my emails about a replacement part for my camber plates. The responses were short and incomplete, but at least they gave me something lol.

[t.er]

Ground Control has famously bad customer service, so I’m impressed you got an answer. Knowing that, I still attempted to ask them a question about their articulating spring jacks (or something related to rear coilover parts, I don’t even remember anymore) and never got a response. Followed up twice, nada.

TCK at least had the decency to respond to my emails about a replacement part for my camber plates. The responses were short and incomplete, but at least they gave me something lol.Huh, that's quite the opposite to what I've heard after talking with some guys on NAM3F. I did email and never got a response, but they picked up the moment I called and had answers to all my questions with sufficient detail immediately. And even though they knew I bought the plates used since I had mentioned at the beginning, they were still willing to help

[BMWCurves]

So I'm finally getting around to getting my windshield replaced. My insurance only covers "like and similar" glass, but on the phone they said they would do OEM glass. That said, they only cover $40/hr for labor. I had planned to go to my local BMW dealer to have it done, but my insurance basically wouldn't cover much done by them. I would pay out of pocket, but the stealership's quote was ~$1,500. So instead I'm still having OEM glass replacement, but labor done by SafeLite. They're coming out to me. Has anyone had a bad experience with them? I figure if the glass is OEM, everything else should be okay. I'm worried about the rain/headlight sensor being affected, but assume having OEM glass should take care of that.

[Galapolis]

From what my friends have told me they have had very good experiences with Safelite. Make sure to get Pilkington brand glass.

[Vas]

I know a couple of people that had issues with them so I avoided using them. Instead I found a local shop that installs windshield. I also bought a genuine bmw windshield gasket since the ones companies use is trim to size.

FYI sekurit or Pilkington are both good brands for the windshield

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[az3579]

Genuine BMW glass installed on the ZHP from Safelite. Excellent experience.

[BMWCurves]

From what my friends have told me they have had very good experiences with Safelite. Make sure to get Pilkington brand glass.

Sounds good! I remember the Pilkington brand from previous discussions. I'll check before they do the install.


I know a couple of people that had issues with them so I avoided using them. Instead I found a local shop that installs windshield. I also bought a genuine bmw windshield gasket since the ones companies use is trim to size.

FYI sekurit or Pilkington are both good brands for the windshield

Hmm...that's smart - I might go that route with the windshield gasket.


Genuine BMW glass installed on the ZHP from Safelite. Excellent experience.

Great, that makes me a lot more comfortable. Thanks!

[Thatguy_JZ]

I've had Pilkington and FYG windshields. FYG is an OEM for domestic brands. No issue with either windshield. Safelite just did it second time around after an Indy shop screwed everything up royally the first time. As long as you have an experienced tech you're solid. They did it perfect.



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[fredo]

Not a BMW question but ... does this mean something ? I have seen it in different places, and yesterday even noticed a car sticker. It was a VW Golf, BTW.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[sillieidiot]

*shrug*, I dunno, oh well. that's basically what it is. like an emoji

[pedro2u]

*shrug*, I dunno, oh well. that's basically what it is. like an emoji

exactly

https://emojipedia.org/person-shrugging/

[Prestovie]

Repairable? Don’t want to have to buy another Vibrant, just worried about how much room I’ll have to cut. Already fully removed so the thing sounds mental right now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/61a4958312526e1457fa6094654bdd1a.jpg


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[BMWCurves]

Damn, how did that rust through

[fredo]

*shrug*, I dunno, oh well. that's basically what it is. like an emoji


exactly

https://emojipedia.org/person-shrugging/

Thank you, guys. I had no idea.

[Prestovie]

Damn, how did that rust through

Shop didn’t paint the welds and didn’t use a stainless steel Y-pipe. Lasted three years so hard to complain(?)


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[sillieidiot]

it looks like it should be repairable. Just cut the section, replace and weld it again. You can paint it with high temp paint to help with rust and stuff too.

[Galapolis]

Does someone know if there is a way to raise the front suspension like you can on the rear with thicker spring pads? It doesn't look like BMW makes thicker pads for the front struts. I thought about putting spacers between the mount and the strut tower, but that wouldn't increase suspension travel so I'd rather not. My goal is to achieve the same stance as the Alpina B3 using Pro Kit springs, without spending 2k on the Alpina FE 3 suspension package.

Basically like this:

36847

[t.er]

Has anyone had tapering brake pads before? At first I thought the left front wheel had significantly less pad than the right side, but it turns out the left was just severely tapered on the trailing (top) edge. My hypothesis is that since I did ~60ish laps on a right-handed track, there was just more load on that caliper which may have caused it to heat up. Both caliper slide pins on the bottom are completely striped so they don't tighten up, so perhaps the left side is binding under heavy braking? Another thing is that when I installed the pads, one of the inners was stubborn to clip into the piston, so I (stupidly) pushed it in a few times before realizing the end of the clip was going into the dust boot. No leakage but I might have damaged the dust seal on that caliper, so that may also be a potential cause?

The pedal also feels like complete crap now. I'm thinking it could be due to the fact that I swapped pads left and right, and now the right pad has some "springback" as it only contacts the pad on the leading edge, until you step on the pedal really hard and it forces the pad flat on the rotor. I'm going to try bleeding the brakes and see if that will help as well.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/6afb723261d575b919e406139648f399.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/79e47f491b92a430fbce09943e6442fe.jpg

[Galapolis]

I should probably know this due to your extensive thread but did you replace your calipers? It looks to me like the caliper is binding on one of the pins. You are supposed to replace the pins when doing a brake job. If you are still on original calipers the bushings are definitely done for as well. I was amazed at how much my new calipers slide around compared to my sticky old ones.

[t.er]

I should probably know this due to your extensive thread but did you replace your calipers? It looks to me like the caliper is binding on one of the pins. You are supposed to replace the pins when doing a brake job. If you are still on original calipers the bushings are definitely done for as well. I was amazed at how much my new calipers slide around compared to my sticky old ones.

No, calipers are all-original, but I had no perceivable taper on my old no-name street pads. Yeah that's what I'm thinking too with the stripped guide pin, it's just odd how it seemed to bind on the top, where the top guide pins aren't stripped, and it's only on the left front. At least bushings are cheap, I may start with that

[Galapolis]

No, calipers are all-original, but I had no perceivable taper on my old no-name street pads. Yeah that's what I'm thinking too with the stripped guide pin, it's just odd how it seemed to bind on the top, where the top guide pins aren't stripped, and it's only on the left front. At least bushings are cheap, I may start with that

You don't really need new calipers if you get the rebuild kit. If you're gonna replace the bushings you might as well grab the kit from FCP as well. Much cheaper than new calipers and basically the same result. Your seals are most definitely toast too and I wouldn't be surprised if the piston is causing uneven wear because it's applying force unevenly.

[sillieidiot]

Does someone know if there is a way to raise the front suspension like you can on the rear with thicker spring pads? It doesn't look like BMW makes thicker pads for the front struts. I thought about putting spacers between the mount and the strut tower, but that wouldn't increase suspension travel so I'd rather not. My goal is to achieve the same stance as the Alpina B3 using Pro Kit springs, without spending 2k on the Alpina FE 3 suspension package.

Basically like this:

36847


Have you tried double stacking the upper spring pads? Should be able to stack them on top of each other to make them thicker.

[Galapolis]

Have you tried double stacking the upper spring pads? Should be able to stack them on top of each other to make them thicker.

I've thought about that, I just wasn't sure if stacking pads was the best idea or if it would seat properly but I guess there isn't really much else I can do. I think I'll try two bottom pads and two upper pads. Should give me around 10mm more height.

[ZHPizza]

I've thought about that, I just wasn't sure if stacking pads was the best idea or if it would seat properly but I guess there isn't really much else I can do. I think I'll try two bottom pads and two upper pads. Should give me around 10mm more height.I may have some used ones in the garage if you want to try them

[Chaplian]

No, calipers are all-original, but I had no perceivable taper on my old no-name street pads. Yeah that's what I'm thinking too with the stripped guide pin, it's just odd how it seemed to bind on the top, where the top guide pins aren't stripped, and it's only on the left front. At least bushings are cheap, I may start with that

So I’ve run into this before, and it’s a multi piece puzzle. You have floating calipers, which aren’t as rigid as a fixed caliper, your guide bushings are shot, and your guide pins are stripped.

Your calipers are definitely in need of a rebuild, and I strongly recommend you do them yourself. I rebuilt the 330i calipers I put on my sedan, and you can source the pistons and and piston seal from Rockauto, you want the centric brand for the seal. For the guide pins and bushings, you want to go to the brass guides. Bimmerworld and FCPEuro offer these, here’s a link: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/Caliper-Parts/BimmerWorld-Solid-Brake-Guide-Kit-Most-ATE-Calipers.html

The beauty of the brass guides is that they deflect much less under heavy constant load, such as a track environment, preventing your tapered brake pads. It’s about as close as you can get our floating calipers to fixed calipers.

I wouldn’t do another track event with your current brakes, and I strongly suggest you keep a dedicated set of brake pads for only the track.

If you have any questions on rebuilding them, let me know, I’ve done it a couple of times now so I’ve gotten pretty good at it.


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[Galapolis]

I may have some used ones in the garage if you want to try them

Was actually gonna ask if I could borrow your non-deadly spring compressors. I feel like I've pushed my luck as far as it goes with my cheapo compressors. Still need to save up for Koni Special Actives though. And I guess that Vincebar is waiting for me too. So much to do...

[ZHPizza]

Was actually gonna ask if I could borrow your non-deadly spring compressors. I feel like I've pushed my luck as far as it goes with my cheapo compressors. Still need to save up for Koni Special Actives though. And I guess that Vincebar is waiting for me too. So much to do...

Absolutely please use my compressor.

I'm about to pull off my FSD's to install yellows if you want to try those. They're too soft for me so probably will be for you too though.

[t.er]

So I’ve run into this before, and it’s a multi piece puzzle. You have floating calipers, which aren’t as rigid as a fixed caliper, your guide bushings are shot, and your guide pins are stripped.

Your calipers are definitely in need of a rebuild, and I strongly recommend you do them yourself. I rebuilt the 330i calipers I put on my sedan, and you can source the pistons and and piston seal from Rockauto, you want the centric brand for the seal. For the guide pins and bushings, you want to go to the brass guides. Bimmerworld and FCPEuro offer these, here’s a link: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/Caliper-Parts/BimmerWorld-Solid-Brake-Guide-Kit-Most-ATE-Calipers.html

The beauty of the brass guides is that they deflect much less under heavy constant load, such as a track environment, preventing your tapered brake pads. It’s about as close as you can get our floating calipers to fixed calipers.

I wouldn’t do another track event with your current brakes, and I strongly suggest you keep a dedicated set of brake pads for only the track.

If you have any questions on rebuilding them, let me know, I’ve done it a couple of times now so I’ve gotten pretty good at it.


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Too late, I've already pre-paid for another lapping session this Friday :ducking

To mitigate potential issues I've helicoiled the carriers. The guide pins do tighten up, but not to spec - it feels like it'll strip again if too much torque is applied. Regardless, it's much better than before, where the threads were a clearance hole around the pins, so you could pull them out by hand. I'm also going to cut down stint length from 15-20 minutes, to 5-7 minutes at a time just so I don't get the calipers too hot.

https://i.imgur.com/FwY9Rk2l.jpg

I was thinking of picking up regular ATE rubber bushings, as I've heard mixed reviews on brass ones. How do you like them, and how often do you grease them?

Also when rebuilding calipers, do you happen to know if a tire pump will remove the piston? I do not have a compressor at home.

[Galapolis]

Absolutely please use my compressor.

I'm about to pull off my FSD's to install yellows if you want to try those. They're too soft for me so probably will be for you too though.

If you are willing to sell the FSD's I'll take them. I really liked the ride when I drove your car. Honestly I'd do anything to get away from my current setup. I have stiff Eibach sway bars, so I'm actually specifically looking for a really soft spring/shock combo. I'd encourage you to do a quick test drive in my car. You'll feel how bad it is almost immediately.

Also do you happen to have the Camry RTABS left over?



I was thinking of picking up regular ATE rubber bushings, as I've heard mixed reviews on brass ones. How do you like them, and how often do you grease them?


So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

[t.er]

So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

Hmmm, these street brass guide pins (https://www.condorspeedshop.com/collections/e46-parts/products/brake-caliper-guide-bushing-set-street) look pretty good since they're sealed - thinking about getting those

[ZHPizza]

If you are willing to sell the FSD's I'll take them. I really liked the ride when I drove your car. Honestly I'd do anything to get away from my current setup. I have stiff Eibach sway bars, so I'm actually specifically looking for a really soft spring/shock combo. I'd encourage you to do a quick test drive in my car. You'll feel how bad it is almost immediately.

Also do you happen to have the Camry RTABS left over?



So I installed the brass bushings last fall. The pedal felt a little better afterwards. I still haven't regreased them. Should probably do that soon. Since you are going to the track pretty often the brass bushings make sense. Personally I would not install them again, but only because I mostly do street/mountain driving.

Yep, the ride is great but I'm chasing better steering response and hoping I can get that by cranking down the yellows. I'll try to get them installed soon and confirm that they're what I'm after so I can send the FSD's your way.

I promised the Camry RTABs to someone else but I may actually have 3 and another one is like $25 so we can figure it out.


Hmmm, these street brass guide pins (https://www.condorspeedshop.com/collections/e46-parts/products/brake-caliper-guide-bushing-set-street) look pretty good since they're sealed - thinking about getting those

I looked at those too, but liked the ECS version better since it has internal o-rings to keep the grease inside the bushing. Just another part that's sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?647-The-Deal-Thread-Save-Money&p=593067#post593067

[t.er]

I looked at those too, but liked the ECS version better since it has internal o-rings to keep the grease inside the bushing. Just another part that's sitting in the garage waiting to be installed.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?647-The-Deal-Thread-Save-Money&p=593067#post593067

Oooooh thanks for linking that, I have about $70 credit from ordering the wrong short shift lever 3 years ago, then returning it. If shipping isn't too much then it might be a good buy along with my FCABs that I need, since the Meyle HDs over here are about $30 more expensive. Hmm, time to start thinking about what else to buy to make shipping cross-border worth it...

EDIT: Ugh god, the one bad thing about living in Canada. Shipping for the caliper bushings, install tool, and Meyle HD FCABs is $42 USD. Did a quick online calc for taxes & duties and it's another $40 USD on top of that. Might have to hold off on the caliper bushings for now and just pay the extra $30 to get Meyle HD FCABs locally

[Galapolis]

Yep, the ride is great but I'm chasing better steering response and hoping I can get that by cranking down the yellows. I'll try to get them installed soon and confirm that they're what I'm after so I can send the FSD's your way.

I promised the Camry RTABs to someone else but I may actually have 3 and another one is like $25 so we can figure it out.



Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

The RTABs aren't a priority, I just figured since I need to get an alignment again, I might as well fix my current RTABs, especially since you have the right tool. What would your recommendation be? I just need the squeaking to stop before I become crazy.

[t.er]

Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

FWIW I have Meyle RSMs, no complaints from me so far. But I only have 20,000 km on them, along with 7 or 8 autox, and ~180 km of hard track driving

[ZHPizza]

Nice guess I better source the final puzzle pieces. Which bump stops are the shortest? There are a few different options on FCP/Turner. Should I get Lemförder or Meyle HD rear shock mounts? I've heard very bad things about Meyle over at the German forums.

The RTABs aren't a priority, I just figured since I need to get an alignment again, I might as well fix my current RTABs, especially since you have the right tool. What would your recommendation be? I just need the squeaking to stop before I become crazy.

The stock bump stops can be cut down to whatever length you want. I don't know that you need to on this car though. We have a good amount of suspension travel with stock springs or your eibachs.

I went with the Rogue RSMs and am happy that I did. They address a lot of the shortcomings of the stock RSMs while still providing good isolation. They're sleeved for 10mm shocks but can be used with 12mm without the sleeve, so you maintain some flexibility down the road.

There's really only two good options for the RTABs and they both have their strengths/weaknesses: OE rubber with limiters (I prefer Vorshlag limiters because they're made of UHMW, which is naturally lubricating and will never squeak) or spherical bearings. There is a lot of good discussion on the two across this forum and e46f, but it boils down to the sphericals being amazing but you pay the price when you hit an edge that hits the tire with a rearward force, which gets directed into the body via the solid bearing connection. Think like the front edge of a bridge - that gives a loud clang through the whole chassis. It's awful but they're wonderful over up/down transitions (railroad tracks) and make the rear end super planted coming out of a corner.

[sillieidiot]

I've thought about that, I just wasn't sure if stacking pads was the best idea or if it would seat properly but I guess there isn't really much else I can do. I think I'll try two bottom pads and two upper pads. Should give me around 10mm more height.

I have doubled stacked the upper pads before. Since the top of the spring is more flat (like the way the spring coils) there was no issues with seating. I think the bottom one might be a little bit harder to align, but should work.

[Galapolis]

The stock bump stops can be cut down to whatever length you want. I don't know that you need to on this car though. We have a good amount of suspension travel with stock springs or your eibachs.

I went with the Rogue RSMs and am happy that I did. They address a lot of the shortcomings of the stock RSMs while still providing good isolation. They're sleeved for 10mm shocks but can be used with 12mm without the sleeve, so you maintain some flexibility down the road.

There's really only two good options for the RTABs and they both have their strengths/weaknesses: OE rubber with limiters (I prefer Vorshlag limiters because they're made of UHMW, which is naturally lubricating and will never squeak) or spherical bearings. There is a lot of good discussion on the two across this forum and e46f, but it boils down to the sphericals being amazing but you pay the price when you hit an edge that hits the tire with a rearward force, which gets directed into the body via the solid bearing connection. Think like the front edge of a bridge - that gives a loud clang through the whole chassis. It's awful but they're wonderful over up/down transitions (railroad tracks) and make the rear end super planted coming out of a corner.

On my H&R sport springs, I was riding the bump stops for the longest time until I checked and realized that I had 0mm suspension travel, which explained why my ride was so trash. I cut off the first section front and back, checked again, and couldn't believe my eyes. I was STILL riding the bump stops. I cut them again so there's basically nothing left, but I knew in that moment that H&R was dead to me lol. Can't wait to get my Eibachs in. I just think I'm traumatized by the H&Rs, but I guess there isn't much choice again so I'll go ahead and order the bump stops from FCP.

As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.

That being said the German guys also say Bilstein is absolute trash so you gotta take their experience with a grain of salt.

I'm just not stoked about OEM bushings because of both the installation and removal process. Do let me know about the Camry RTAB. A sharp clunk over a few bumps definitely beats the CREAK CREAK CREAK every 5 seconds.


I have doubled stacked the upper pads before. Since the top of the spring is more flat (like the way the spring coils) there was no issues with seating. I think the bottom one might be a little bit harder to align, but should work.

That's great news, I'll go ahead and order another set of pads. Thanks!

[t.er]

Oooooh thanks for linking that, I have about $70 credit from ordering the wrong short shift lever 3 years ago, then returning it. If shipping isn't too much then it might be a good buy along with my FCABs that I need, since the Meyle HDs over here are about $30 more expensive. Hmm, time to start thinking about what else to buy to make shipping cross-border worth it...

EDIT: Ugh god, the one bad thing about living in Canada. Shipping for the caliper bushings, install tool, and Meyle HD FCABs is $42 USD. Did a quick online calc for taxes & duties and it's another $40 USD on top of that. Might have to hold off on the caliper bushings for now and just pay the extra $30 to get Meyle HD FCABs locally

Ended up buying the Condor Speed Shop bushings all because of shipping cost. Only $11 USD for snail mail, I paid $20 USD for "2 day" shipping with DHL. Since it's made in USA import duties are only $12.

The longer design with caps is certainly much better with grease retention than the short exposed ones. I don't mind re-greasing them once in a while, since I seem to swap tires every 2 or 3 weeks.


As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.

Hmm yeah I have poly RTABs, perhaps I should keep a close eye on the pockets. I haven't had any issues with them so far, with 7-8 autox and 1 hard track day. That being said I did see a video (that I cannot currently find) where an E46 had complete failure on track, the rear end jumped up in the air like a horse. At least on the English-speaking forums, I don't really see issues with E46s, just E36s as its a lot more common with those cars (as is rear shock towers cracks)

[ZHPizza]

As for the RTABs, I actually like the way it handles without bump steer or camber increase during compression, but according to the German guys, the reason why you shouldn't use poly or limiters is because the additional stress will eventually tear out your RTAB bracket mounting points in the chassis. Big yikes when I read that. They've had multiple failures over there with poly and limiters after taking their cars to the track. A street driven car might be able to get away with it.




Hmm yeah I have poly RTABs, perhaps I should keep a close eye on the pockets. I haven't had any issues with them so far, with 7-8 autox and 1 hard track day. That being said I did see a video (that I cannot currently find) where an E46 had complete failure on track, the rear end jumped up in the air like a horse. At least on the English-speaking forums, I don't really see issues with E46s, just E36s as its a lot more common with those cars (as is rear shock towers cracks)

+1 This was a huge problem on the e36 but that video is the only failure that I've seen from the e46

Bear in mind the car was built for track-only and had been heavily abused for 17 years at the time of failure

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zPECASIrs

Discussion: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2346405-E46-Trailing-Arm-Pocket-failure-story

With limiters you're still isolating the body with the rubber bushing so I can't imagine it having any effect on the e46. I could definitely see it with a spherical bearing for the reasons mentioned above, but there are hundreds if not thousands of e46's on the track with spherical bearing RTABs.

I'm not gonna sweat it until my 15th track season lol

[Galapolis]

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4zPECASIrs

Hadn't seen that video yet, thanks for sharing. OE M3 bushings without limiters are sounding very attractive right now.

EDIT: Actually I need some help with the rear bump stop. FCP says this is not for sport suspension: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-bump-stop-rear-33531136395

But it doesn't explicitly say sport suspension on the alternative: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-bump-stop-rear-325ci-325i-330ci-330i-33506757047-vaico

Is that second one the correct part for sport or M package suspension?

[Vas]

You can get the kit which includes the bump stop and the plastic boot.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Hadn't seen that video yet, thanks for sharing. OE M3 bushings without limiters are sounding very attractive right now.

EDIT: Actually I need some help with the rear bump stop. FCP says this is not for sport suspension: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-bump-stop-rear-33531136395

But it doesn't explicitly say sport suspension on the alternative: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-bump-stop-rear-325ci-325i-330ci-330i-33506757047-vaico

Is that second one the correct part for sport or M package suspension?Fyi the FSD kit came with bump stops and bellows for the rear:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/fcda2ec0bd85558772adfcd0c4c6c632.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/64cbb683e128733679e852649ed73589.jpg

Looks like I reused the front stuff though
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/fe761f258101996f5a6b36b31a81dad6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/63f51d23e4018ae55def2dc6ac3f28f6.jpg

[t.er]

Braking issues continue. Has anyone encountered these errors?

ABS:
- 5E1A CAM DME/DDE Signal Error
- 5E1F PT-CAN chassis number wrong/ECU not initialized
- 5E16 CAN Timeout instrument cluster
- 5E5D Brake_fluid_level low/Switch faulty

LEW:
- 0B Wrong LWS-ID

Some symptoms: Started noticing the red ABS light come on intermittently on track after using ABS. I didn't notice that before, but chalked that up as just a light that comes on when you use ABS a lot. No lights on the drive home, but today just driving around town I got the orange DSC light, and the red ABS light. Turned the car off, DSC light went away, but ABS light was still there. ABS still works. Got home and cleared all the codes, did a couple more ABS stops and the red ABS light came on again, but went away after a few seconds. Re-checked and still no codes.

Did some searching but at this point it could be a number of things. I have been taking advantage of ABS pretty heavily throughout my autox'ing and track. Until recently I haven't had any issues, but I'm thinking that with my pad taper and resultant very squishy pedal, the ABS module thinks the brake fluid is low, perhaps the other codes come along with that fault. What's puzzling me is the last code, which is new, not sure how the LWS-ID can randomly change.

[t.er]

Those with brass brake caliper bushings, how much play was there between the bushing and the caliper? I installed mine today and you can easily slide the bushing back and forth axially between the shoulder and the circlip, as there is an extra 3-4 mm in length than the caliper itself (seen in pic below). Seems like that fitment is looser than the bushing to the pin itself, so I would think the caliper would slide on the bushing before the pin on the bushing.

https://i.imgur.com/rnbCN5ml.jpg

[Galapolis]

There was no play on mine. I had to hammer mine in due to the tight tolerances. I used the BavAuto kit.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Hey guys, random question...

Does anyone know if I could run BCRacing Coils with M3 spring rates, while having Hotchkis Swaybars for a Non-M?

I’ve been eyeing a full suspension overhaul for a long time and I’m ready to take the plunge, I feel like BC’s will be more than enough for a weekend warrior like me, But I managed to inherit a set of Hotchkis Non-M sways that I’d very much like to use. The M3 spring rates sound attractive, but I’m not sure if the 2 are compatible.

If they weren’t, I’d pull the trigger on BC’s with Non-M spring rates or maybe upgrade to Swift Springs. Just want to know what I’m signing up for, any input is appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Hey guys, random question...

Does anyone know if I could run BCRacing Coils with M3 spring rates, while having Hotchkis Swaybars for a Non-M?

I’ve been eyeing a full suspension overhaul for a long time and I’m ready to take the plunge, I feel like BC’s will be more than enough for a weekend warrior like me, But I managed to inherit a set of Hotchkis Non-M sways that I’d very much like to use. The M3 spring rates sound attractive, but I’m not sure if the 2 are compatible.

If they weren’t, I’d pull the trigger on BC’s with Non-M spring rates or maybe upgrade to Swift Springs. Just want to know what I’m signing up for, any input is appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are the M3’s F/R spring rates?

[ZHP_Brandon]

What are the M3’s F/R spring rates?

Found this info on TMS.com, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200717/07f5f76718fcc3d4d088dc8ca6279016.jpg
8K fronts & 12K rears


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Will]

What are the M3’s F/R spring rates?

155 fr / 380 rr, according to FCM flatride spreadsheet (link (http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Ride_Harmony_BMW_E46_M3_Online/FCM_Ride_Harmony_BMW_E46_M3_Online.htm))

[sillieidiot]

Hey guys, random question...

Does anyone know if I could run BCRacing Coils with M3 spring rates, while having Hotchkis Swaybars for a Non-M?

I’ve been eyeing a full suspension overhaul for a long time and I’m ready to take the plunge, I feel like BC’s will be more than enough for a weekend warrior like me, But I managed to inherit a set of Hotchkis Non-M sways that I’d very much like to use. The M3 spring rates sound attractive, but I’m not sure if the 2 are compatible.

If they weren’t, I’d pull the trigger on BC’s with Non-M spring rates or maybe upgrade to Swift Springs. Just want to know what I’m signing up for, any input is appreciated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd probably run less spring rate with a beefier sway bar. You could still buy it, and just swap the spring rates later.

[704sw]

I'd probably run less spring rate with a beefier sway bar. You could still buy it, and just swap the spring rates later.

8k/12k isn’t very much, is it? Isn’t that like 450/675 in lb/ft?

[ZHP_Brandon]

I'd probably run less spring rate with a beefier sway bar. You could still buy it, and just swap the spring rates later.

Mm. I have hotchkis for Non-M’s that aren’t installed on my stock suspension. I was really just hoping to know if it’s possible to run the Non-M hotchkis with “M3 suspension”. You think the spring rates provided by BC are too harsh or too soft? Maybe I’m better off getting custom Swift Springs?


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[ZHP_Brandon]

8k/12k isn’t very much, is it? Isn’t that like 450/675 in lb/ft?

I honestly know so little about this... which is sad considering I should know a lot more but suspension is a foreign land to me. I’m hoping to learn more in my suspension overhaul attempt at the end of the summer


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[Galapolis]

Is it worth getting the golden DISA? Mine committed seppuku today. I inspected it last year and it was in good shape (replaced by previous owner). I attempted to rebuild it anyway, but it turns out the rebuild kit doesn't fit on OEM. I could get a genuine one and rebuild it with the kit but at that point I might as well buy the golden one. Or would you guys say it's better to save the money and just get another OEM unit for the next 75k?

[BMWCurves]

Space saver rear tires: mine's original and my sister's new (to her) needs replacement as well. What replacement tire do you y'all have?

[johnrando]

Is it worth getting the golden DISA? Mine committed seppuku today. I inspected it last year and it was in good shape (replaced by previous owner). I attempted to rebuild it anyway, but it turns out the rebuild kit doesn't fit on OEM. I could get a genuine one and rebuild it with the kit but at that point I might as well buy the golden one. Or would you guys say it's better to save the money and just get another OEM unit for the next 75k?IMHO the Gold DISA was worth it... you don't have to worry about it going bad.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[fredo]

Space saver rear tires: mine's original and my sister's new (to her) needs replacement as well. What replacement tire do you y'all have?

Two years ago I paid for space saver tire at DT. I don't remember the brand, but they called me some days later and said tire was unavailable. I got a refund, but still want to get another one.

[holyc0w]

Is it worth getting the golden DISA? Mine committed seppuku today. I inspected it last year and it was in good shape (replaced by previous owner). I attempted to rebuild it anyway, but it turns out the rebuild kit doesn't fit on OEM. I could get a genuine one and rebuild it with the kit but at that point I might as well buy the golden one. Or would you guys say it's better to save the money and just get another OEM unit for the next 75k?

Genuine one as in new? Could also find a used one online or at the junkyard and rebuild that one.

[sillieidiot]

8k/12k isn’t very much, is it? Isn’t that like 450/675 in lb/ft?

Well it isn't on suspension with no sways. I was running 550/650 in lb/ft without sways no problem. But after I added sways, it was a lot harsher, at least for street use. It was great on the track though. I dropped down to 8k/10k swift (so like 450/560 in lb/ft) and it feels better. His Hotchkis sways are even beefier than the Turners I'm running, so not sure how he'd like it. But then again, my car is different so it's not like it translates over.


Mm. I have hotchkis for Non-M’s that aren’t installed on my stock suspension. I was really just hoping to know if it’s possible to run the Non-M hotchkis with “M3 suspension”. You think the spring rates provided by BC are too harsh or too soft? Maybe I’m better off getting custom Swift Springs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well it's definitely possible. And honestly, I would go ahead and go for it. You will need a reference spring anyways to figure out if you want more or less spring rate. Heck, you might like what you got. Or you only just replace only front/rear. It's hard to pick a spring rate tbh without actually trying it. Like some people like like 700/800 rates for street use. Man, I can't do that shit lol

[704sw]

Space saver rear tires: mine's original and my sister's new (to her) needs replacement as well. What replacement tire do you y'all have?

I’m not sure what spare tire replacements cost, and this might be more than you want to spend, but have you ever seen the Apex “blemished” price list? They sell cosmetically imperfect wheels for really cheap (I think I’ve seen some Arc-18s for well under $100). Pair that with a 17” tire and you can have a full size spare for $200.

If I did a lot of highway driving, or frequently had a kid with me, I’d definitely lean towards that option.

[fredo]

I’m not sure what spare tire replacements cost, and this might be more than you want to spend, but have you ever seen the Apex “blemished” price list? They sell cosmetically imperfect wheels for really cheap (I think I’ve seen some Arc-18s for well under $100). Pair that with a 17” tire and you can have a full size spare for $200.

I remember it was around $125 for the donut tire. Only problem was DT said they don't carry that size.

[BMWCurves]

Two years ago I paid for space saver tire at DT. I don't remember the brand, but they called me some days later and said tire was unavailable. I got a refund, but still want to get another one.

I remember it was around $125 for the donut tire. Only problem was DT said they don't carry that size.

Good to know. There has to be a market for space saver-sized tires still.

Edit: For those wondering, the stock space-saver tire size is 125/80R17


I’m not sure what spare tire replacements cost, and this might be more than you want to spend, but have you ever seen the Apex “blemished” price list? They sell cosmetically imperfect wheels for really cheap (I think I’ve seen some Arc-18s for well under $100). Pair that with a 17” tire and you can have a full size spare for $200.

If I did a lot of highway driving, or frequently had a kid with me, I’d definitely lean towards that option.

Hah, of course APEX does factory "seconds." I'll have to look into it, thanks for the heads up! Side note: do 8.5" width wheels fit in our trunk? I recall some issue when people were trying to fit full size width rear wheels into their trunks.

[704sw]

Hah, of course APEX does factory "seconds." I'll have to look into it, thanks for the heads up! Side note: do 8.5" width wheels fit in our trunk? I recall some issue when people were trying to fit full size width rear wheels into their trunks.

They used to post a spreadsheet of the current blemished inventory on the M3forum classifieds, but I haven’t tried go to that website since it went berserk a while back. Is it even still a website?

I can fit my 8.5” front with 225/40-18 in the trunk-well, but I don’t think I’ve tried with the 235/40. It rubs the plastic trim *just a touch* when you’re putting it in/taking it out, but it’s not bad at all.

[t.er]

They used to post a spreadsheet of the current blemished inventory on the M3forum classifieds, but I haven’t tried go to that website since it went berserk a while back. Is it even still a website?

The new forum is NAM3Forum (https://nam3forum.com/forums/)

[t.er]

Has anyone had a low-frequency resonance type sound from their brakes? I had my Hawk HPS pads worn down to ~30%, so swapped the fronts back to stock for a bit, but I've just re-installed the HPS this evening. Went for a quick drive, and the front brakes make what sounds like a low-frequency resonance when at very low speeds. At first I was concerned the calipers were sticking, but when I re-installed the guide pins, I made sure that the caliper could still slide on them when it was installed, and after the drive the front wheels near the hubs were ever so slightly warmer than the rear (so not scalding hot which is indicative of a sticking caliper).

I have a video here (https://photos.app.goo.gl/9Nw53svjz4P51pf16), the sound can be heard starting at 0:55 when I start off slowly from a standstill. The sound generally stops around ~10 km/h. Unfortunately audio quality is quite bad since my phone was on its mount, but you can still hear what I'm talking about

One possible cause I'm thinking of is the anti-squeal shim - it has come loose from the pad, and consistently falls off whenever the pads are uninstalled. I just pressed it back on and installed the pads with it. Given the caliper doesn't seem to be sticking, I may just give it some mileage (& more braking events) and see if it disappears. I have a ~1 hr drive each way to autox tomorrow

[BMWCurves]

Does the windshield wiper arm have a lot of adjustability in terms of its resting position, kind of like the steering wheel on the steering column? It rained overnight so I tested my wipers out for the first time since I've had my windshield replaced. It seems like the maximum position in the wiper arc is further inboard than before, i.e. it stops at 12:00ish on the driver's side, instead of 11:30 and parallel with the A pillar like it did before the windshield replacement.

[John in VA]

Does the windshield wiper arm have a lot of adjustability in terms of its resting position, kind of like the steering wheel on the steering column?
Yes, the shafts & wipers have splines, so you might be off one.

[BMWCurves]

Yes, the shafts & wipers have splines, so you might be off one.

Perfect, thank you! I'd have looked myself but all the tools are at my folks' place.

[ZHPizza]

Check the TIS for the alignment specs and you can measure how far out you are. Hopefully only need to adjust one of them and it's the one that comes off easy.

[Galapolis]

Does anyone know if the M3 carbon fiber front crash bar fits on the Mtech II bumper?

[zhpnsnv]

I feel a little bit crazy asking this question -- you know, because safety first and all that jazz -- but I also feel like I'm in good company, so here goes:

I'm scheduled to get my passenger airbag recall done tomorrow.

Does it replace that dash section, and if it does, is the new material of different patina than the original?

I couldn't handle looking at that large piece of the dash being different than the rest.

- Anonymous

[John in VA]

I'm scheduled to get my passenger airbag recall done tomorrow. Does it replace that dash section, and if it does, is the new material of different patina than the original? I couldn't handle looking at that large piece of the dash being different than the rest.
Previous recalls involved replacing the vinyl section, but all matched well in our three E46s. One didn't fit as well as the original. Haven't scheduled this final recall yet.

[johnrando]

FWIW, no issues with mine.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[zhpnsnv]

Excellent, thanks gents.

[BMWCurves]

Yup, no issue with my three replacements either.

[zhpnsnv]

Got it done today. All good.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

Got it done today. All good.

Sent from my SM-G950U using TapatalkGood

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[Galapolis]

Does someone here have experience with driveshaft balancing?

Thinking about getting my driveshaft balanced but I'm unsure what a fair price for that would be, where to go to get it done properly and whether it's something worth doing. I've got some drivetrain vibrations and replacing the trans mounts didn't really fix it, so I'm thinking I might just need some good old balancing.

[John in VA]

Does someone here have experience with driveshaft balancing?
Thinking about getting my driveshaft balanced but I'm unsure what a fair price for that would be, where to go to get it done properly and whether it's something worth doing.
Look for a heavy truck repair shop, or a race shop.

[das boots]

Look for a heavy truck repair shop, or a race shop.

I agree. Letting a truck repair shop do the balancing. However, a caveat.....let them determine if it is the driveshaft that is causing the vibration.

Long time ago, I had my CV Joint Axles with torn rubber boots to my now departed E30 M Technic repaired when I provided the kit to a local truck repair shop. I was new to the BMW E30 scene then. How times have passed. So long time ago...….Sorry...just reminiscing of old times.

3708537086

[t.er]

Those who have installed the M3 fuel pump baffle, how secure was it in the tank? I spent some time trying to "clip" it in, but no matter what the baffle was still a bit loose. I felt around and the baffle conformed to the plastic insert that already existed in the tank, so I'm just wondering if that's how it's supposed to be - if so, it just didn't inspire a lot of confidence.

https://i.imgur.com/0nISHiNl.jpg?

Edit: Seems like I answered my own question, yes apparently it's supposed to be pretty loose in there (https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/m3-fuel-baffle-fixture-fuel-pump-diy.704377/post-12135844)

[Will]

3708537086

I have no experience with balancing driveshafts, but just wanted to say: Damn, that's a clean e30!!

How I wish BMW (or any car mfg) would make a compact - and light - car like the e30 again

[holyc0w]

I have no experience with balancing driveshafts, but just wanted to say: Damn, that's a clean e30!!

How I wish BMW (or any car mfg) would make a compact - and light - car like the e30 again

BRZ/FRS is as close as it gets

[az3579]

How I wish BMW (or any car mfg) would make a compact - and light - car like the e30 again


They do. It's called the Mini Cooper.

[Galapolis]

The 1 series was pretty nice too until recently. Then they ruined it with FWD and that bulky bloated design.

[t.er]

BRZ/FRS is as close as it gets

Honestly, back when I was shopping around for my first car back in 2015 I would've been thrilled with one of those but they were too expensive. The electric power steering is insanely good, so much so that I was questioning that it was electric and not hydraulic. And it's such a competitive platform too, both those and the ND Miata usually occupy the top 1/4 of the times at most autox's I've been to.

However I'm still glad I have my ZHP, it's really the embodiment of what a BMW 3 series was designed to do - just be a good all-around car. When I did my road trip to and from California, I'm not so sure my mom would've wanted to sit in the back of one of those for that long.

[Galapolis]

One of my friends has a BRZ. It definitely encapsulates that classic simple sports car feeling, and it feels far superior to the E46 in corners (not to mention it's track ready without oil pump or subframe issues). But as a daily driver, it really pales compared to the E46. The E46 interior isn't exactly the epitome of luxury, but damn that BRZ interior is bad. From the cheap switches to the hard plastic surfaces, it just looks and feels terrible from every angle. And that sound system is atrocious too.

The suspension and ride are good, but it's nowhere near as smooth as a decently maintained E46. Still, I've contemplated a GT86 or BRZ as my next car for some time, but in Germany, decent used ones still go for 25k+. I'd rather just get a 1.5 ND Miata for far less (<15k) and enjoy a car that's similar to the luxury of the E46. Hoping they will drop to under 10k in the next 2-3 years.

[das boots]

They do. It's called the Mini Cooper.

I'll take a Mini. Unfortunately, they are FWD. Too bad.

[az3579]

I'll take a Mini. Unfortunately, they are FWD. Too bad.

Why is that a problem?
They are very fun to drive and can be practically controlled by your right foot, just like a RWD car.

[Will]

As a DD, I would definitely prefer the e46 over the FRS.

One of the funnest cars I had was FWD. I should have never sold it. '90 CRX Si. No power steering with lots of feedback. One of the most comfortable seats I've sat in (I think they were made by Recaro, not confirmed), and one of the smoothest shifting transmissions I've driven. Zipping around up and down the hills and still getting 30+ mpg was fantastic.

Hondas from the late 80s through the early 2000s were awesome. But so were BMWs of that era.

[holyc0w]

Honestly, back when I was shopping around for my first car back in 2015 I would've been thrilled with one of those but they were too expensive. The electric power steering is insanely good, so much so that I was questioning that it was electric and not hydraulic. And it's such a competitive platform too, both those and the ND Miata usually occupy the top 1/4 of the times at most autox's I've been to.

However I'm still glad I have my ZHP, it's really the embodiment of what a BMW 3 series was designed to do - just be a good all-around car. When I did my road trip to and from California, I'm not so sure my mom would've wanted to sit in the back of one of those for that long.

I'm looking forward to seeing how the next gen one works out. Hoping for a bit more power, less torque dip, and not a whole lot more weight. You gain a chunk of weight if you look at the next tier of cars (Camaro and the like).

[t.er]

I'm looking forward to seeing how the next gen one works out. Hoping for a bit more power, less torque dip, and not a whole lot more weight. You gain a chunk of weight if you look at the next tier of cars (Camaro and the like).I was initially excited and have been following news on ft86club and gr86.org. But as I read more into it my excitement starts to fade for the following reasons:


- It looks identical to the gen 1 car above the beltline, so it's likely the same platform. I'm not sure how much tweaking they will do to the suspension. Which is not a bad thing, but why not just get the gen 1 car if that's the case

- I'm hearing peak power figures of 206 HP, which isn't much gain over the FA20. But it's hard to say if that's true until we can see a torque and power curve

- If the latest renders of the interior are true, then I'm not a fan as it follows the trend of having a glued-on iPad screen on top of the dash. I greatly prefer the aesthetic of the old interior, though I'm sure quality will be improved

I guess we'll wait and see how much better this new car is to the old, but if there's not much difference then why not get a 2015+ BRZ for >$10k cheaper, then you have so much extra mod money and existing aftermarket support for the gen 1 car

[das boots]

Why is that a problem?
They are very fun to drive and can be practically controlled by your right foot, just like a RWD car.

Just old school. That's just me.

[stephenkirsh]

Just old school. That's just me.

I mean... the mini pre-dates the 3 series by decades.

First gen of the BMW-era Cooper S models are just as fast on track as a zhp.

[holyc0w]

I was initially excited and have been following news on ft86club and gr86.org. But as I read more into it my excitement starts to fade for the following reasons:


- It looks identical to the gen 1 car above the beltline, so it's likely the same platform. I'm not sure how much tweaking they will do to the suspension. Which is not a bad thing, but why not just get the gen 1 car if that's the case

- I'm hearing peak power figures of 206 HP, which isn't much gain over the FA20. But it's hard to say if that's true until we can see a torque and power curve

- If the latest renders of the interior are true, then I'm not a fan as it follows the trend of having a glued-on iPad screen on top of the dash. I greatly prefer the aesthetic of the old interior, though I'm sure quality will be improved

I guess we'll wait and see how much better this new car is to the old, but if there's not much difference then why not get a 2015+ BRZ for >$10k cheaper, then you have so much extra mod money and existing aftermarket support for the gen 1 car

Yeah, they're kind of stuck. They don't want to deviate too much from the original formula. But as it's not changing much there's no reason to get the latest model with the prices as they are. I also like the updated ND Miata.

On the electric side, the Honda E seems pretty cool, but we're not getting that in the U.S.

[ZHPizza]

Anyone else that's installed the BMWP shift lever, or done any recent shifter rebuild really, not been able to use ANY of the little yellow washers?

RealOEM diagram shows a total of 4, my car had two from the factory, and now with the new parts I can fit zero.

I thought I remembered someone saying that they were phased out with the extended delrin bits on the shifter and rod joint connections, but I can't find anything on it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/908c3f2532b46243eef14ff333ccae30.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/3a6a9549b7f7e77b50ad98849101b2c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/7622e8beb914baffb40ea6c66a6472a1.jpg

[t.er]

It's been 3 years since then but I recall having the same issue and not ending up using washers thought I can't say for sure. As long as you have no axial play in the joints then just send it

[das boots]

Unfortunately it's been a while when I installed my UUC SS. However, I have some photos that I took. Middle photo is original link prior to install. Mismatch sequence. But you get the picture. Hope this helps.

[Will]

Anyone else that's installed the BMWP shift lever, or done any recent shifter rebuild really, not been able to use ANY of the little yellow washers?

RealOEM diagram shows a total of 4, my car had two from the factory, and now with the new parts I can fit zero.

I thought I remembered someone saying that they were phased out with the extended delrin bits on the shifter and rod joint connections, but I can't find anything on it.





It's been 3 years since then but I recall having the same issue and not ending up using washers thought I can't say for sure. As long as you have no axial play in the joints then just send it

^This.

Yup, I had the same issue. I replaced #12 (the rod joint), a BMWP shifter, and UUC DSSR (model 144). I had to exchange the DSSR for a 144-2 which accommodates the increased width of the new rod joint and shifter connector. I think I measured the difference to be 2mm.

[ZHPizza]

Thanks, boys. The fitment is tight so I'm not worried about it, just wanted to see if anyone else had a similar experience.


^This.

Yup, I had the same issue. I replaced #12 (the rod joint), a BMWP shifter, and UUC DSSR (model 144). I had to exchange the DSSR for a 144-2 which accommodates the increased width of the new rod joint and shifter connector. I think I measured the difference to be 2mm.

Ah ok that pretty much confirms it then. Sucks that UUC had to go back and make a new model for BMW's updated parts. Thanks!

[zhpnsnv]

I mean... the mini pre-dates the 3 series by decades.

First gen of the BMW-era Cooper S models are just as fast on track as a zhp.Yup, my old R53 Cooper S was an extremely capable and forgiving track car and pure fun on the street. In the right FWD car with the proper dynamics, you don't really notice the lack of RWD.



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[Prestovie]

I’ve got this “film” starting to flake off of my drivers side headlight. Anyone else experience this? Not sure if it’s PPF(doubt it) or a protective layer on the housing. Apologies if it’s hard to see, but it’s a 4-5in strip that’s just starting to go https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/964589004be4a0d80ce0940e080a536a.jpg


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[t.er]

I’ve got this “film” starting to flake off of my drivers side headlight. Anyone else experience this? Not sure if it’s PPF(doubt it) or a protective layer on the housing. Apologies if it’s hard to see, but it’s a 4-5in strip that’s just starting to go


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I've had that on the underside of my donor coupe lenses, my best guess is that it's probably the UV protective coating.

[Prestovie]

I've had that on the underside of my donor coupe lenses, my best guess is that it's probably the UV protective coating.

Well that’s what i was afraid of, lens replacement imminent?


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[Galapolis]

Well that’s what i was afraid of, lens replacement imminent?


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I replaced my lenses with $20 ebay units over a year ago and they still look like new. Only took about 5 minutes. I would definitely recommend it.

[Prestovie]

I replaced my lenses with $20 ebay units over a year ago and they still look like new. Only took about 5 minutes. I would definitely recommend it.

Great shout, thank you

[t.er]

Great shout, thank you
I replaced my lenses with $20 ebay units over a year ago and they still look like new. Only took about 5 minutes. I would definitely recommend it.Again, as I said: lucky bastards lol

[BMWCurves]

So I'm trying to remove the wiper blade arm so I can adjust its resting angle, but can't get the dern thing off. Any recommendations? The internet seems to say hit it with a rubber mallet or pry it with a flathead screw driver but it feels like I'll just destroy my trim or bend the wiper arm post.

[pedro2u]

this: https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-63953.html

It's saved me from breaking so many things

[ZHPizza]

So I'm trying to remove the wiper blade arm so I can adjust its resting angle, but can't get the dern thing off. Any recommendations? The internet seems to say hit it with a rubber mallet or pry it with a flathead screw driver but it feels like I'll just destroy my trim or bend the wiper arm post.I couldn't even get one of mine off with a puller. Had to borrow the special BMW tool from a dude. Shit was awful.

[John in VA]

So I'm trying to remove the wiper blade arm so I can adjust its resting angle, but can't get the dern thing off. Any recommendations? The internet seems to say hit it with a rubber mallet or pry it with a flathead screw driver but it feels like I'll just destroy my trim or bend the wiper arm post.
My glass guys use this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Equalizer-Wiper-Puller-Tool-WP534E-/173720380057

[ZHPizza]

My glass guys use this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Equalizer-Wiper-Puller-Tool-WP534E-/173720380057Nice find. Sounds like these cheapies on Amazon work with the e46 as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PY8785/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nELsFb637KAPX

[AM1GO]

So I'm trying to remove the wiper blade arm so I can adjust its resting angle, but can't get the dern thing off. Any recommendations? The internet seems to say hit it with a rubber mallet or pry it with a flathead screw driver but it feels like I'll just destroy my trim or bend the wiper arm post.

I used tie rod puller similar to this. No reason to have dedicated puller for the wiper armshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/0ec8b6c1675f36984593b0b728585e51.jpg


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[BMWCurves]

I used tie rod puller similar to this. No reason to have dedicated puller for the wiper armshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/0ec8b6c1675f36984593b0b728585e51.jpg


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Too late, much like 1-use tools in the kitchen, I love cluttering my parents' garage.

[John in VA]

This is the wiper puller that looks exactly like the one shown in the BMW TIS - out of stock currently:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Adjustable-Windshield-Wiper-Arm-Puller-Extractor-Removal-Tool-For-BMW/164228521989
37156

[Vas]

Use your girlfriend's or wife's purse? Lol

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[sillieidiot]

Again, as I said: lucky bastards lol

You should have just hit me up. I have like 3 pairs of spare coupe lenses LOL I keep collecting them for some reason. Originally so I can replace mines, but mines have PPF on them lol

[t.er]

You should have just hit me up. I have like 3 pairs of spare coupe lenses LOL I keep collecting them for some reason. Originally so I can replace mines, but mines have PPF on them lol

Haha man had I known that I definitely would've - some sanding and 2K clear, the lenses look as good as new. I got lucky though, because the donor headlights I used, I got for $80 CAD with 1 uncracked lense, and 1 cracked lense. I then swapped that uncracked lense with my cracked lense, then refinished both sets of headlights because I had more than enough clear and the can doesn't last long. Then sold the donor lense within a week for quite a decent profit... I don't think the guy who originally sold me the headlights knew what they were worth

[sillieidiot]

Haha man had I known that I definitely would've - some sanding and 2K clear, the lenses look as good as new. I got lucky though, because the donor headlights I used, I got for $80 CAD with 1 uncracked lense, and 1 cracked lense. I then swapped that uncracked lense with my cracked lense, then refinished both sets of headlights because I had more than enough clear and the can doesn't last long. Then sold the donor lense within a week for quite a decent profit... I don't think the guy who originally sold me the headlights knew what they were worth

Nice come up. Yeah I have a lot of random lighting parts tbh. I threw a bunch away during my move and still have a lot of random shit leftover somehow.

[Galapolis]

Does someone have the part number for this BMW nav unit?

37159

[t.er]

Does someone have the part number for this BMW nav unit?

37159Wooooaaaaah I didn't even know that was a thing

[DeathTrap]

Woooooow I want that trim piece!! You know what I could do with that space???

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody know if I can use the screws from an E9X roof rack on my E46 roof rack? Just got one off of Facebook market place but it’s missing some screws. Also considering wrapping it in brushed aluminum vinyl, it has some really weird deep black markings on its surface


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[BADCLOWN]

I have never seen that factory nav unit/location before, ever

[Prestovie]

Any idea what this’d run to get fixed? Don’t trust myself with a dent puller or touch up, had the roadside mini lug wrench fly off and kick up. Last time I’m choosing convenience.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200903/13062fc52e84b1fc8cc6713f4a0c5580.jpg


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[BMWCurves]

Do people have any recommendations for a good fender/paint protector pad when I'm leaning over the paint and hammering the DISA valve to make it work better?

[papa_g]

I just wear soft clothes without zippers or buttons when i work on my car

[BMWCurves]

I just wear soft clothes without zippers or buttons when i work on my car

Got any links to this microfiber onesie?

[papa_g]

hahah now im seriously considering getting an old pair of sweats and sewing a bunch of microfiber towels on to it

[johnrando]

Lol. Old soft gym shorts and a tshirr.

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[roddykar]

Does anyone have any idea what bulbs these are and where I can find replacements? Probably around a decade ago I bought them from Khoalty and I have no idea what fitment these were, but they're my front turn signal bulbs that I changed to LED. I bought the capacitor with these bulbs so there wouldn't be any errors, and the bulbs have worked flawlessly--but they're amber and I'm looking for yellow. I've looked through everywhere on what kind of bulbs the ZHP coupes come with, and I'm convinced that the socket (maybe this is a capacitor, too?) is what has changed my bulb fitment. These are quite large wedge bulbs.

https://i.ibb.co/7Y75nRR/IMG-1819.jpg (https://ibb.co/7Y75nRR) https://i.ibb.co/QCsv5Lr/IMG-1820.jpg (https://ibb.co/QCsv5Lr)

[BMWCurves]

I believe these are the ones I bought from ZHPizza: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-T20-WY21W-X-treme-Ultinon-LED-Amber-Indicator-turn-signal-Light-PHILIPS/273103981286

[roddykar]

I believe these are the ones I bought from ZHPizza: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-T20-WY21W-X-treme-Ultinon-LED-Amber-Indicator-turn-signal-Light-PHILIPS/273103981286

Interesting! So these are now T20 bulbs! I've been buying the OE wedge (T10 I believe?) fitment LEDs from various vendors and every single one I got was way too small. This might explain it. Does your setup look similar to mine?

[BMWCurves]

Sort of? Here's the post in my maintenance thread about it, with a picture as well.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=534766#post534766

[roddykar]

Gotcha. Thanks for that. You just reminded me I should change my reverse lights too.

[BMWCurves]

Gotcha. Thanks for that. You just reminded me I should change my reverse lights too.

It'll look good. I'm all LED everything on the exterior. It just gives it an updated look for coupes, IMO.

[roddykar]

I got an LED interior kit from Khoalty also like a decade ago. I do have the rear license plate lights too, but I feel like the lighting is all just way too cool-white-blue in color. I wish it was a little warmer. But I haven’t done the reverse lights, yet!

[BMWCurves]

Agreed, that's why I never went for LEDs in the interior, I like the warm color of incandescent bulbs.

[JETSET303]

So I am am rebuilding the shifter mechanism in the ZHP. Those of you that have done this, how in the actual heck do you get the shifter rod joint in? I wrestled with this darn thing for hours with no luck. I can’t seem to get it pushed on far enough to get the pin in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/cc09a588c578e23576bdc20177f328f3.jpg


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[ZHPizza]

So I am am rebuilding the shifter mechanism in the ZHP. Those of you that have done this, how in the actual heck do you get the shifter rod joint in? I wrestled with this darn thing for hours with no luck. I can’t seem to get it pushed on far enough to get the pin in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200914/cc09a588c578e23576bdc20177f328f3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI mean it takes some force to compress the foam but it's nothing ridiculous. Try compressing it off the car and see how it feels. I was able to get it by pressing the joint with one hand and pushing the pin in from above with the other.

[sillieidiot]

Does anyone have any idea what bulbs these are and where I can find replacements? Probably around a decade ago I bought them from Khoalty and I have no idea what fitment these were, but they're my front turn signal bulbs that I changed to LED. I bought the capacitor with these bulbs so there wouldn't be any errors, and the bulbs have worked flawlessly--but they're amber and I'm looking for yellow. I've looked through everywhere on what kind of bulbs the ZHP coupes come with, and I'm convinced that the socket (maybe this is a capacitor, too?) is what has changed my bulb fitment. These are quite large wedge bulbs.

https://i.ibb.co/7Y75nRR/IMG-1819.jpg (https://ibb.co/7Y75nRR) https://i.ibb.co/QCsv5Lr/IMG-1820.jpg (https://ibb.co/QCsv5Lr)

7440

[JETSET303]

I mean it takes some force to compress the foam but it's nothing ridiculous. Try compressing it off the car and see how it feels. I was able to get it by pressing the joint with one hand and pushing the pin in from above with the other.

There is something not right then. I am able to push the foam down and slide the pin in off the car pretty easily. The old pin was a bit of a bugger to get out. Thanks for the feedback.


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[das boots]

Does anyone have any idea what bulbs these are and where I can find replacements? Probably around a decade ago I bought them from Khoalty and I have no idea what fitment these were, but they're my front turn signal bulbs that I changed to LED. I bought the capacitor with these bulbs so there wouldn't be any errors, and the bulbs have worked flawlessly--but they're amber and I'm looking for yellow. I've looked through everywhere on what kind of bulbs the ZHP coupes come with, and I'm convinced that the socket (maybe this is a capacitor, too?) is what has changed my bulb fitment. These are quite large wedge bulbs.

https://i.ibb.co/7Y75nRR/IMG-1819.jpg (https://ibb.co/7Y75nRR) https://i.ibb.co/QCsv5Lr/IMG-1820.jpg (https://ibb.co/QCsv5Lr)


Bimmian.com but now changed to weisslicht.com Spektrum Bulbs.

Too bad. Bimmian was so user friendly. They supplied all of my Spektrum exterior lamps. I guess they sold their branding to Weisslicht. Not sure. Bimmian just suddenly dropped off the radar.

[ZHPizza]

There is something not right then. I am able to push the foam down and slide the pin in off the car pretty easily. The old pin was a bit of a bugger to get out. Thanks for the feedback.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHmm have you tried pushing the pin through the end of the shaft on the transmission? May have a burr or something holding it up

[JETSET303]

Hmm have you tried pushing the pin through the end of the shaft on the transmission? May have a burr or something holding it up

It is a very tight fit. I will see if I can get a small rat-tail file in there and straighten it out.


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