The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[BMWCurves]

25k-30k I think is the recommended interval?

Interestingly when I replaced them in my old man’s E60, iDrive automatically reset the service alert for 60k. Definitely nowhere near that long in the E46.

Every other oil change so 15k. Fcpeuro ftw

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Sweet, time to pick up a new cabin air filter from the ol' FCP. Thanks fellas!

[ZHP_Brandon]

Good call on the boot. Not sure if it's original but could very well be the reason for the gap. Might be worth getting a new boot to go with the knob. Quickly checked out coby and a leather boot (i think look nicer than alcantara) are $30 + (i assume) shipping, so pretty reasonable.

Yeah shipping is like 8$, if you order tomorrow you should have it by Thursday and you can just hot glue it on.

At 30$ it’s worth the gamble if you ask me, I did the Alcantara arm rest and love the look and feel honestly. I remember you got your car right before me almost 5 years ago from Florida lol I changed my shift boot/knob a while ago cause it was disgusting and I’m ready to do it again

I’ll be buying the illuminated knob from the F10 m5 & I just scored a spare set of ebrake/shift boots today so I’ll be looking to get those redone by coby too


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[NYRhockey]

Yeah shipping is like 8$, if you order tomorrow you should have it by Thursday and you can just hot glue it on.

At 30$ it’s worth the gamble if you ask me, I did the Alcantara arm rest and love the look and feel honestly. I remember you got your car right before me almost 5 years ago from Florida lol I changed my shift boot/knob a while ago cause it was disgusting and I’m ready to do it again

I’ll be buying the illuminated knob from the F10 m5 & I just scored a spare set of ebrake/shift boots today so I’ll be looking to get those redone by coby too
N

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Sadly my neighbor took that one to heaven after only 18 months of ownership and the wife actually liked that car (unlike the current one that she candidly refers to as the money pit, lol).

A cool thing about that car is the last 7 of the VIN were KM05482, and what is my wife's birthday? Apr 5th, 1982. When i mentioned it to her she was not overly impressed and said "but the day/month is backwards" to which i said "no, in Europe they write the day first". BAM.

[John in VA]

Good call on the boot. Not sure if it's original but could very well be the reason for the gap. Might be worth getting a new boot to go with the knob. Quickly checked out coby and a leather boot (i think look nicer than alcantara) are $30 + (i assume) shipping, so pretty reasonable.
Do you have the tie wrap around the neck of the boot? It usually holds it up to the base of the knob. Loosen the boot from the shifter surround, pull the boot up (so it's inside out) & check for/add the tie wrap.

[az3579]

Do you have the tie wrap around the neck of the boot? It usually holds it up to the base of the knob. Loosen the boot from the shifter surround, pull the boot up (so it's inside out) & check for/add the tie wrap.

Mine doesn't have a zip tie there and it sits perfectly fine. This is the first time I've heard of a zip tie being used for the shifter boot... I know the handbrake boot on mine had one, though not sure if that's supposed to be there.

[704sw]

Mine doesn't have a zip tie there and it sits perfectly fine. This is the first time I've heard of a zip tie being used for the shifter boot... I know the handbrake boot on mine had one, though not sure if that's supposed to be there.

My handbrake boot also had a ziptie (so I put one on the replacement boot too). The shifter did not have one.

[holyc0w]

Check if it's a genuine BMW ziptie

[Fenrir]

Check if it's a genuine BMW ziptie

This is very important. A lot of chinesium knockoffs out there.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Sadly my neighbor took that one to heaven after only 18 months of ownership and the wife actually liked that car (unlike the current one that she candidly refers to as the money pit, lol).

A cool thing about that car is the last 7 of the VIN were KM05482, and what is my wife's birthday? Apr 5th, 1982. When i mentioned it to her she was not overly impressed and said "but the day/month is backwards" to which i said "no, in Europe they write the day first". BAM.

Lol this is awesome! Sorry to hear about the car though cause that’s really rough, I honestly don’t think I can see myself without a ZHP in my stable now, too attached


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Hey guys! Just picked up full Alcantara interior for my sedan this past weekend and I’m excited to change up the look of my car eventually but For people with Alcantara interior, is there any remedy for sun faded Alcantara bits?

Some of the interior pieces I just picked up have a yellowish hue to them and I’d want to restore these and put them in my sedan to have this interior.

Any suggestions/cleaning/restoring methods are appreciated

Found a full option set of sport seats local to me to for only 100$ so I might buy those & swap the alcantara skins over so I can have full heated/power/memory/adjustable bolster Alcantara seats.


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[Fenrir]

Hey guys! Just picked up full Alcantara interior for my sedan this past weekend and I’m excited to change up the look of my car eventually but For people with Alcantara interior, is there any remedy for sun faded Alcantara bits?

Some of the interior pieces I just picked up have a yellowish hue to them and I’d want to restore these and put them in my sedan to have this interior.

Any suggestions/cleaning/restoring methods are appreciated

Found a full option set of sport seats local to me to for only 100$ so I might buy those & swap the alcantara skins over so I can have full heated/power/memory/adjustable bolster Alcantara seats.


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A drop of a very gentle detergent with some warm water and a Mr Clean magic eraser helped bring my Alcantara back after being in New Mexico for years. However, if the sun fade is very bad, that may not help.

[ZHP_Brandon]

A drop of a very gentle detergent with some warm water and a Mr Clean magic eraser helped bring my Alcantara back after being in New Mexico for years. However, if the sun fade is very bad, that may not help.

Any recommendation on what detergent? I was thinking of using OxiClean DarkProtect or Woolite for Black clothes but it might be overkill lol

I’ll have to do this soon, The seats aren’t in perfect condition with random burn holes everywhere sadly but the price was incredibly cheap & my back seat doesn’t fold so it was a direct bolt on for my car lol


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[Fenrir]

Any recommendation on what detergent? I was thinking of using OxiClean DarkProtect or Woolite for Black clothes but it might be overkill lol

I’ll have to do this soon, The seats aren’t in perfect condition with random burn holes everywhere sadly but the price was incredibly cheap & my back seat doesn’t fold so it was a direct bolt on for my car lol


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Sonax upholstery cleaner works well as does Woolite Delicates. Plus, the Woolite can be picked up anywhere. Stay way from OxiClean. Fantastic on hard stains but can damage thin fabrics, ask me how I know. Doesn't require a lot of pressure or elbow grease. Just time. Lot's of patience and time. Use a clean rag to give firm scrub down and follow up with the Mr Clean eraser and some fresh warm water.

[holyc0w]

Any alternatives to the wizgear stick on phone mount? My wizgear one failed and I want to try something else

[Fenrir]

Any alternatives to the wizgear stick on phone mount? My wizgear one failed and I want to try something else

I run a Nite Ize Steelie adjustable mount on my dash. Works for my phone and track camera. Worth the price in my book.

My track cam is a Polaroid Cube HD so it literally just pops right onto the ball joint there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191022/c1f163ce18a0187d5f527870b04d80c0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191022/43a23468c96c1488f14cd85803aba8c3.jpg

[az3579]

Any alternatives to the wizgear stick on phone mount? My wizgear one failed and I want to try something else

How did it fail?
The only issues I had with any of mine was the crappy adhesive they use, but the first thing I do when I unbox a new one is take the old adhesive off and apply 3M. Always works like a charm. :)

[papa_g]

ive beenusing a magnetic one that slides onto the air vent fins. works great I really like it. You have to get either a phone case with metal in it, or adhere a metal plate to the back of your phone. I use the former.

[holyc0w]

I would need something that can get glued on top of the panavise mount.

How did it fail?
The only issues I had with any of mine was the crappy adhesive they use, but the first thing I do when I unbox a new one is take the old adhesive off and apply 3M. Always works like a charm. :)The top part separated so now my phone can fly around in circles. Could probably drop a crap ton of glue in there.

[holyc0w]

Guess it heard mehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191023/1fed3181bcc4aea032018f250bed44b7.jpg

[ComradeNick]

Anyone else have an issue with wiper blades on the passenger side not making contact with the glass on the far end? I bought the genuine bmw blades, not sure why it doesnt fit.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Sonax upholstery cleaner works well as does Woolite Delicates. Plus, the Woolite can be picked up anywhere. Stay way from OxiClean. Fantastic on hard stains but can damage thin fabrics, ask me how I know. Doesn't require a lot of pressure or elbow grease. Just time. Lot's of patience and time. Use a clean rag to give firm scrub down and follow up with the Mr Clean eraser and some fresh warm water.

Awesome, I’ll pick these up and rent a hot water extractor from an Ace hardware or something and give this a shot.
My wagon is pending sale atm so I really may end up putting this in my sedan eventually


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[Fenrir]

Oh wow. Best of luck with the sale!

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[papa_g]

Anyone else have an issue with wiper blades on the passenger side not making contact with the glass on the far end? I bought the genuine bmw blades, not sure why it doesnt fit.

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I recall mine looking like that as well, but it does not affect performance. I’ll double check when I go to the car


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[YoitsTmac]

Anyone else have an issue with wiper blades on the passenger side not making contact with the glass on the far end? I bought the genuine bmw blades, not sure why it doesnt fit.

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I had the same issue but with the driver side. Was very upset, and BMW did not take them back.

[Overboost]

I just gave my right arm a little more force against the windshield by giving the right arm a little more bend. Not much, a little is all takes.

[Vas]

Saw this on a facebook page. Are the owners members here? 35854

[704sw]

Every time I see the coupe style taillights on a sedan it trips me up.

[BMWCurves]

Every time I see the coupe style taillights on a sedan it trips me up.

Agreed. I'm not sure why, but it just looks off in my eyes. General conditioning, I guess.

[az3579]

Every time I see the coupe style taillights on a sedan it trips me up.

This x10000

[pedro2u]

It's been about 17 months since I asked about front bumper sources now that Khoalty isn't a choice. I've now driven 2 seasons and haven't added any new damage to my bumper other than what the PO did, so I'm confident I can do a better job than he did judging those obstacles that scuff us (all his damage is not visible from above) . So any references?

My vert is soon to go into storage again :crying, and I'd like to fix this bumper issue while it's hibernating

My lowest price locally is dealer OEM at $541 less any BMWCCA discount. Appreciate your experiences

Pete

[JETSET303]

Any alternatives to the wizgear stick on phone mount? My wizgear one failed and I want to try something else

I went this route. Considering RAM mount to replace magnet like I use in my truck though.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191025/76ac03174ce9b04c59aef02e1d7e817f.jpg


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[RUS_ZHP]

Question to Gruppe M intake owner's: looks like there is a bracket for providing additional rigidity. It's highlighted in red on the picture.
The idea of this bracket is to use M6 stud from the shock tower or oem intake mounting holes?
Can some who has it send me a picture of it?
I want to 3D print one.
Thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/866abfa93f24210eb75ae91a9b7dd2ee.jpg

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[BMWCurves]

Question to Gruppe M intake owner's: looks like there is a bracket for providing additional rigidity. It's highlighted in red on the picture.
The idea of this bracket is to use M6 stud from the shock tower or oem intake mounting holes?
Can some who has it send me a picture of it?
I want to 3D print one.
Thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/866abfa93f24210eb75ae91a9b7dd2ee.jpg

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If you 3D print one, would you be willing to make a second one? I'd pay more than $3.50 for it.

[ZHP_Brandon]

And if anybody is looking to part ways with there GruppeM intake..... feel free to let me know before making a post, You get a free friend for life when you sell to ME lmao [emoji3061]


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[az3579]

Question to Gruppe M intake owner's: looks like there is a bracket for providing additional rigidity. It's highlighted in red on the picture.
The idea of this bracket is to use M6 stud from the shock tower or oem intake mounting holes?
Can some who has it send me a picture of it?
I want to 3D print one.
Thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191026/866abfa93f24210eb75ae91a9b7dd2ee.jpg

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I can bring you my bracket when we meet up, if you'd like.

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[holyc0w]

I want to 3D print one.

Can you print the whole intake?

[RUS_ZHP]

If you 3D print one, would you be willing to make a second one? I'd pay more than $3.50 for it.For sure. Just cover the shipping. Botond will give me his bracket for measurements.
I can bring you my bracket when we meet up, if you'd like.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkPerfect! I'll measure it and print it.
Can you print the whole intake?I wish I could. It's probably to big for the printer I'll be using.

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[BMWCurves]

For sure. Just cover the shipping. Botond will give me his bracket for measurements.

Yeah, just let me know! Happy to pay cost of production, etc

[RUS_ZHP]

Saw this on a facebook page. Are the owners members here? 35854I just noticed this picture and recognized the cars. Guy with LED tails is the person who bought my sedan. Car next to it, is my old sedan that was purchased for his GF. They are very nice people. I told them about the forum and was pushing them to join. I will do it one more time and will send a screenshot of your post Vas.

They are big e46 fans.

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[Vas]

I just noticed this picture and recognized the cars. Guy with LED tails is the person who bought my sedan. Car next to it, is my old sedan that was purchased for his GF. They are very nice people. I told them about the forum and was pushing them to join. I will do it one more time and will send a screenshot of your post Vas.

They are big e46 fans.

Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkThat's great.

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[fredo]

+1. That's so cool, you owned both cars at some point. They look very sharp.

[papa_g]

Can I get your advice on something?
Looking into getting an suv to get me from Washington to Indiana this January, since I doubt the performance of the zhp through the mountains and snow.
Considering a 2005 x3, 160k miles, mystery coolant leak for $2500. I figured, it has a very similar engine, so I could fix anything before the trip in January.
What do you guys think on the reliability of these cars?
I’m thinking of going the cr-v or rav-4 route as well.


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Can I get your advice on something?
Looking into getting an suv to get me from Washington to Indiana this January, since I doubt the performance of the zhp through the mountains and snow.
Considering a 2005 x3, 160k miles, mystery coolant leak for $2500. I figured, it has a very similar engine, so I could fix anything before the trip in January.
What do you guys think on the reliability of these cars?
I’m thinking of going the cr-v or rav-4 route as well.


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Literally in the same exact position except I found one for 1500$ lol


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[papa_g]

Literally in the same exact position except I found one for 1500$ lol


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Dude, this one I’m looking at is even silvergrau... that would be absolutely marvelous next to the zhp


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[san]

Can I get your advice on something?
Looking into getting an suv to get me from Washington to Indiana this January, since I doubt the performance of the zhp through the mountains and snow.
Considering a 2005 x3, 160k miles, mystery coolant leak for $2500. I figured, it has a very similar engine, so I could fix anything before the trip in January.
What do you guys think on the reliability of these cars?
I’m thinking of going the cr-v or rav-4 route as well.


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Do you mean the zhp’s performance won’t be enough in the mountains?
If that’s the case then heavier x5 would be worse, right?


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[papa_g]

Do you mean the zhp’s performance won’t be enough in the mountains?
If that’s the case then heavier x5 would be worse, right?


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X3 with awd I think would be better in the snow than a rwd.

[704sw]

X3 with awd I think would be better in the snow than a rwd.

Transfer case is the weak point of the E83 chassis. If it has 160k and still the original transfer case I’d be hesitant. If it’s been replaced it’s a solid car. 4,000 lbs and good F/R balance make it sure-footed in winter.

Mine has the N52 but I’ve driven an M54 X3 as well, and it’s just a tall E46 with E39 front suspension.

[az3579]

X3 with awd I think would be better in the snow than a rwd.

If the snow isn't high, as in the roads are plowed but maybe not salted, then the ZHP is fine in the snow with winter tires.
It's only the height of the snow you need to worry about.

Regardless of whether you get an SUV or drive the ZHP, you need to have winter tires.

[papa_g]

I’ll definitely ask to see the records; hopefully it has been addressed


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[papa_g]

I just spoke to the owner. She was very knowledgeable on the car and has all the records. Is definitely willing to take less than $2500. When I mentioned “the main issue with this chassis”, she immediately said “the transfer case?” Lol... seems like it’s common knowledge. She said it has not given her any problems, but that it also has never been serviced. She says the lower radiator hose is leaking, but no other leaks and the engine has never overheated. I think I’m gonna go take a look at it tomorrow, drive it and peruse the maintenance records....


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[Chaplian]

If the snow isn't high, as in the roads are plowed but maybe not salted, then the ZHP is fine in the snow with winter tires.
It's only the height of the snow you need to worry about.

Regardless of whether you get an SUV or drive the ZHP, you need to have winter tires.

x2. Take the $2500 and get a LSD in the rear and winter tires, and the ZHP will be unstoppable. I drove a lowered E46 325i with winter tires and an open differential for 6 years through Chicago winters, including driving through 12" of snow multiple times. Drove it to northern WI by the UP during a Thanksgiving blizzard. Drove by plenty of trucks/SUVs in the ditches without a problem.


I just spoke to the owner. She was very knowledgeable on the car and has all the records. Is definitely willing to take less than $2500. When I mentioned “the main issue with this chassis”, she immediately said “the transfer case?” Lol... seems like it’s common knowledge. She said it has not given her any problems, but that it also has never been serviced. She says the lower radiator hose is leaking, but no other leaks and the engine has never overheated. I think I’m gonna go take a look at it tomorrow, drive it and peruse the maintenance records....


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I'm always wary of buying new cars and taking them on long road trips without going through them completely. Is this really about the road trip, or do you want a SUV? Every E83/E46 is at least a $7.5k-10k car, it just depends on when you're going to pay it.

If it's only for the road trip, rent a 4runner or Jeep, or throw a LSD in the ZHP and get winter tires IMO.

[papa_g]

x2. Take the $2500 and get a LSD in the rear and winter tires, and the ZHP will be unstoppable. I drove a lowered E46 325i with winter tires and an open differential for 6 years through Chicago winters, including driving through 12" of snow multiple times. Drove it to northern WI by the UP during a Thanksgiving blizzard. Drove by plenty of trucks/SUVs in the ditches without a problem.
I'm always wary of buying new cars and taking them on long road trips without going through them completely. Is this really about the road trip, or do you want a SUV? Every E83/E46 is at least a $7.5k-10k car, it just depends on when you're going to pay it.

If it's only for the road trip, rent a 4runner or Jeep, or throw a LSD in the ZHP and get winter tires IMO.

Honestly, I really don’t want to take the zhp, even if I am confident it will do ok in the snow. It’s my baby, don’t want to get it into an accident or have something happen to it while I’m over there.
In all honestly, I do really want an SUV, and need to be able to transport a lot of things with me to Indiana, as I will be living there for 1-2 years.
That’s why I wanted your opinions. If it’s a risky buy that may just give me problems while I’m in school, I will just go with an older rav4 or cr-v and not worry too much about it.

[stephenkirsh]

I just spoke to the owner. She was very knowledgeable on the car and has all the records. Is definitely willing to take less than $2500. When I mentioned “the main issue with this chassis”, she immediately said “the transfer case?” Lol... seems like it’s common knowledge. She said it has not given her any problems, but that it also has never been serviced. She says the lower radiator hose is leaking, but no other leaks and the engine has never overheated. I think I’m gonna go take a look at it tomorrow, drive it and peruse the maintenance records....


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It’s insanely rare to find somebody that knowledgeable about their car. I’d buy it based on that.

I’m not knowledgeable of transfer case problems, though.

[holyc0w]

I'd go the Honda or Toyota route, but I'm boring like that.

[Chaplian]

Honestly, I really don’t want to take the zhp, even if I am confident it will do ok in the snow. It’s my baby, don’t want to get it into an accident or have something happen to it while I’m over there.
In all honestly, I do really want an SUV, and need to be able to transport a lot of things with me to Indiana, as I will be living there for 1-2 years.
That’s why I wanted your opinions. If it’s a risky buy that may just give me problems while I’m in school, I will just go with an older rav4 or cr-v and not worry too much about it.Sounds like you want an AWD E46 touring!

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[ZHPizza]

It’s insanely rare to find somebody that knowledgeable about their car. I’d buy it based on that.

I’m not knowledgeable of transfer case problems, though.That was my reaction too. For $2500 I'd expect a shitpile owned by someone that filled it with 87octane and ran it into the ground.

[papa_g]

Haha actually yeah a e46 or e39 touring would be a logical choice. I’ll take a look and see if anything pops up.
Like I said, I can get this thing for less than 2500 easily. Maybe replace the actuator in the transfer case, put in new oil and call it good... I was really surprised that this woman apparently did a lot of the work herself on this car. Also it been in her family since 2011, so I’m gonna take a look!


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[az3579]

Haha actually yeah a e46 or e39 touring would be a logical choice.

I have an E39 touring for sale.............

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[papa_g]

I have an E39 touring for sale.............

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That’s tempting. But it’s Connecticut...


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[san]

Honestly, I really don’t want to take the zhp, even if I am confident it will do ok in the snow. It’s my baby, don’t want to get it into an accident or have something happen to it while I’m over there.
In all honestly, I do really want an SUV, and need to be able to transport a lot of things with me to Indiana, as I will be living there for 1-2 years.
That’s why I wanted your opinions. If it’s a risky buy that may just give me problems while I’m in school, I will just go with an older rav4 or cr-v and not worry too much about it.

I’ve lived in Indiana for 3 years, just south of Indy. Depending on where you will be staying, you might not need awd/winter tires at all. The place where I stayed for maybe got 3-4 days of snow and if you can find alternate transportation for those days, you won’t need another car. Also I’ve driven the zhp on snow with continental dws 06 tires once or twice and it’s manageable as long as you don’t drive in snow deeper than 2-3”. If the place where you’re going to has similar weather to where I lived, something like dws 06 tires are much better than winter tires.

Also I drove all the way from MI to Utah through the Colorado Rockies last December and didn’t see flake of snow. But on the way back had to drive through a snow storm and -20F temps. So if you time your journey right, you can easily do it in your zhp.


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[papa_g]

Failed attempt to go look at the e83. Drove 30 minutes before she texted me to tell me she was stuck in traffic. May try again tomorrow...
UPDATE: sold. Oh well

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[papa_g]

If you were to open your fuel pump, and see this type of hose clamp, would you think this is the original pump?
35883


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[ZHPizza]

If you were to open your fuel pump, and see this type of hose clamp, would you think this is the original pump?
35883


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[RUS_ZHP]

+1. Pump is original for sure. I never seen that people installing oem hose clamps instead of regular hose clamp

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[704sw]

+1. Pump is original for sure. I never seen that people installing oem hose clamps instead of regular hose clamp

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Would a dealership use an OEM-style clamp or a screw-gear hose clamp?

[az3579]

+1. Pump is original for sure. I never seen that people installing oem hose clamps instead of regular hose clamp

Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI reused my original one...
I didn't have a choice. I had the new pump already in the trunk when mine failed but I didn't have any clamps. I replaced it at a rest stop on I-95.

The original one crimped on just fine, though I wouldn't reuse it a 3rd time.
Would a dealership use an OEM-style clamp or a screw-gear hose clamp?The OE clamp is a "single use" crimp connector.

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[papa_g]

That’s what I thought... according to my records my fuel pump and seal were replaced at 70k miles (currently at 102k) by an independent shop in Texas. Terry Sayther, perhaps some of your Texas mafiosos know [of] him. If this is indeed the original pump I’m gonna be pissed


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[ZHPizza]

That’s what I thought... according to my records my fuel pump and seal were replaced at 70k miles (currently at 102k) by an independent shop in Texas. Terry Sayther, perhaps some of your Texas mafiosos know [of] him. If this is indeed the original pump I’m gonna be pissed


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He could have reused the clamp. BP just said he did it and I've done it myself with those style clamps in a pinch. Not ideal, but if it's been fine for 32k miles then it ain't going anywhere.

He also could have gone overboard and used a new clip style clamp from BMW instead of a simple screw hose clamp.

It looks like there's a date code printed on the fuel pump - just above the hose clamp in your pic. If that is indeed a date code and it says mfg in 2004 then uhhh...

[papa_g]

He could have reused the clamp. BP just said he did it and I've done it myself with those style clamps in a pinch. Not ideal, but if it's been fine for 32k miles then it ain't going anywhere.

He also could have gone overboard and used a new clip style clamp from BMW instead of a simple screw hose clamp.

It looks like there's a date code printed on the fuel pump - just above the hose clamp in your pic. If that is indeed a date code and it says mfg in 2004 then uhhh...

I might have to open the back seat again and take a look. It also says VDO next to the electrical input. That’s the OEM if I’m not mistaken, but usually when it’s genuine bmw there’s a roundel somewhere in the vicinity...


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[ZHPizza]

I might have to open the back seat again and take a look. It also says VDO next to the electrical input. That’s the OEM if I’m not mistaken, but usually when it’s genuine bmw there’s a roundel somewhere in the vicinity...


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkRight, there's a roundel stamped on the other side of the plug for the OE BMW part, but the VDO stamp is also there. The roundel is likely shaved off for the VDO part. Roundel would still be there if the shop bought the pump from the dealer, so won't tell you much.

[papa_g]

Right, there's a roundel stamped on the other side of the plug for the OE BMW part, but the VDO stamp is also there. The roundel is likely shaved off for the VDO part. Roundel would still be there if the shop bought the pump from the dealer, so won't tell you much.

Maybe I’ll call terry sayther and find out if he uses originalstyle clamps... lol


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[fredo]

Terry Sayther is among the best. One of my favorite shops in town.

[papa_g]

Terry Sayther is among the best. One of my favorite shops in town.

That’s what I’ve heard


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[RUS_ZHP]

Would a dealership use an OEM-style clamp or a screw-gear hose clamp?I haven't thought about that.
I reused my original one...
I didn't have a choice. I had the new pump already in the trunk when mine failed but I didn't have any clamps. I replaced it at a rest stop on I-95.

The original one crimped on just fine, though I wouldn't reuse it a 3rd time. The OE clamp is a "single use" crimp connector.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkIt was nice that you were carring a pump. Which made me thinking that I should replace pump on my AW sedan, which is approaching 160k.

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[joeybananaz18]

Olive has developed a “ticking” noise that I don’t hear while moving, only when stationary. It gets louder as revs go up. DISA?

Trying to figure out how I can get a video up.


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[san]

Olive has developed a “ticking” noise that I don’t hear while moving, only when stationary. It gets louder as revs go up. DISA?

Trying to figure out how I can get a video up.


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Oil level ok?


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[joeybananaz18]

Oil level ok?


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Actually lower than I thought. I checked it like a month ago and it was right where it needed to be. Damn.


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[az3579]

Actually lower than I thought. I checked it like a month ago and it was right where it needed to be. Damn.


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Yeah, if you have an M54 you should be checking it often. lol
I just did an oil change last week and I already need a quart on the ZHP. :facepalm

[san]

Actually lower than I thought. I checked it like a month ago and it was right where it needed to be. Damn.


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If the loss of oil is something new then check for oil leaks and also for any mayo in the ccv.

I have a leaky oil pan gasket and I lose about a quart every 1000-1500 miles. May have some oil consumption issues too but I need to fix the leaks to know for sure.


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[papa_g]

Speaking of oil consumption: if your tail pipes are clean, could you safely assume that you aren’t burning oil?
My 2.0 TSI vw burned oil like crazy and the tile pipe was absolutely black as a result.


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[stephenkirsh]

You’re probably hearing lifter tick. Common after autox or track use. I’d you’re just driving normally, likely low on oil.

My Miata ticks all the time, however.

[joeybananaz18]

Thanks guys. I’m planning an oil change this weekend along with swapping on winters. We’ll see if it does the trick.


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[stephenkirsh]

CCV time on the wife's ZSP :(

Is there any reason to NOT get this cold weather OE kit?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/cold-climate-oil-separator-kit-level-1/oemm54oslv1kt/

Should I take the intake manifold off, or not?

[Vas]

CCV time on the wife's ZSP :(

Is there any reason to NOT get this cold weather OE kit?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/cold-climate-oil-separator-kit-level-1/oemm54oslv1kt/

Should I take the intake manifold off, or not?Best option out there. Easier to pull the manifold but the job can be done with it still installed. If you pull the manifold off, it's a rabbit hole with " while I'm in here"

Replace the iacv grommet and throttle body gasket as well.


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[san]

CCV time on the wife's ZSP :(

Is there any reason to NOT get this cold weather OE kit?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/cold-climate-oil-separator-kit-level-1/oemm54oslv1kt/

Should I take the intake manifold off, or not?

Can be done without taking manifold off. I’ve done it twice. First attempt took me a whole day, second attempt was about 4 hrs.


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[stephenkirsh]

Best option out there. Easier to pull the manifold but the job can be done with it still installed. If you pull the manifold off, it's a rabbit hole with " while I'm in here"

Replace the iacv grommet and throttle body gasket as well.


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Yea I was looking at taking off the manifold on my ZHP last year, and it's definitely a "while I'm in there" rabbit hole!

[papa_g]

I'd say, if youve never taken off the intake manifold, then do it because rabbit hole

[stephenkirsh]

The car barely had 105k on it.

My zhp is at 161k and never had the manifold off.

[DeathTrap]

Pull the manifold. Go ahead and fall down the hole like the rest of us.

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[stephenkirsh]

I'm sure I'll find another time in the next 50k to pull the manifold. I'm going to skip it this time.

For a non-manifold job, any other things to purchase?

Throttle body o-ring? Seems like this is rare.
ICV gasket..thingy? Seems rare, too.

Anything else?

[Vas]

I'm sure I'll find another time in the next 50k to pull the manifold. I'm going to skip it this time.

For a non-manifold job, any other things to purchase?

Throttle body o-ring? Seems like this is rare.
ICV gasket..thingy? Seems rare, too.

Anything else?Any good ccv kit includes both of those items.

Disa o-ring should be replaced. O-rings on the engine vacuum distribution piece, throttle body boots if they are old, o-ring on the dipstick.

Job is alot easier if you remove the oil filter housing but if you do that get a new ofhg.

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[papa_g]

Seriously looking at a 2004 325xi touring. TiAg. Well maintained. 189k miles. Seems pretty clean. 3 owners. Seller asking $2950.
Seems pretty up to date on maintenance, but I do not see anything in the records about most cooling system parts. Records only have 2 thermostat replacements, and multiple “cooling system checks”.
What do you guys think? Earlier I learned e83s have transfer case problems. Same with the e46s? Worth the price or can I get a better deal? Thanks in advance:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/517958345682894/?ref=messenger_banner


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[stephenkirsh]

Any good ccv kit includes both of those items.

Disa o-ring should be replaced. O-rings on the engine vacuum distribution piece, throttle body boots if they are old, o-ring on the dipstick.

Job is alot easier if you remove the oil filter housing but if you do that get a new ofhg.

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I was changing the intake boots, which is how I discovered the CCV issue. I also bought a batch of DISA o rings.

What’s the “o ring on engine vacuum distribution piece”?

[John in VA]

I was changing the intake boots, which is how I discovered the CCV issue. I also bought a batch of DISA o rings.
What’s the “o ring on engine vacuum distribution piece”?
#6 - O-ring, 7X3 - 11617502761
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-02-2006-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=11_2879

[az3579]

Seriously looking at a 2004 325xi touring. TiAg. Well maintained. 189k miles. Seems pretty clean. 3 owners. Seller asking $2950.
Seems pretty up to date on maintenance, but I do not see anything in the records about most cooling system parts. Records only have 2 thermostat replacements, and multiple “cooling system checks”.
What do you guys think? Earlier I learned e83s have transfer case problems. Same with the e46s? Worth the price or can I get a better deal? Thanks in advance:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/517958345682894/?ref=messenger_banner


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Looks like a decent buy. Be prepared to be disappointed by the halogen headlights though, word of warning.
Looks pretty clean overall.

E83's use VTG transfer cases, which have problems all the time. My ex-BMW tech friend tells me the E46 ones are different and are very reliable.

[papa_g]

Looks like a decent buy. Be prepared to be disappointed by the halogen headlights though, word of warning.
Looks pretty clean overall.

E83's use VTG transfer cases, which have problems all the time. My ex-BMW tech friend tells me the E46 ones are different and are very reliable.

Thanks!


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[DeathTrap]

Seems like I got offered a good injector deal on eBay. Cleaned and flow matched to within 2%, set of 6 for $120-$35 core - $12 eBay bucks = $73.

Anybody here send out their injectors for a professional cleaning? Spend money elsewhere?

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[az3579]

Never had to touch my injectors. 327k and going strong. Thanks Shell! [emoji4]

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[ZHPizza]

Seems like I got offered a good injector deal on eBay. Cleaned and flow matched to within 2%, set of 6 for $120-$35 core - $12 eBay bucks = $73.

Anybody here send out their injectors for a professional cleaning? Spend money elsewhere?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkI got a set like that off of eBay when I had a leaky injector causing warm start issues, but don't know of any regular maintenance interval for them.

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[BADCLOWN]

Too aggressive for stock fenders???

LM 165 - DSPK 19 x 8.5 5-120 32 24.5
LM 148 - DSPK 19 x 10 5-120 25 25.6

[704sw]

Too aggressive for stock fenders???

LM 165 - DSPK 19 x 8.5 5-120 32 24.5
LM 148 - DSPK 19 x 10 5-120 25 25.6

I’m guessing 32 and 25 are the respective offsets?

[san]

Seems like I got offered a good injector deal on eBay. Cleaned and flow matched to within 2%, set of 6 for $120-$35 core - $12 eBay bucks = $73.

Anybody here send out their injectors for a professional cleaning? Spend money elsewhere?

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I will probably get my injectors cleaned up sometime in the summer next year. The price doesn’t seem too bad if the turn around time is good. Although there isn’t a known maintenance interval period for the injectors I think it’s not a bad idea to get them cleaned. Just because they’re working doesn’t mean that they’re working as well as they can.


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[DeathTrap]

I bought them. I'll run some datalogs after I install them to see if they make a difference. I'm at ~210k miles.

Doin it for education!

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[san]

I bought them. I'll run some datalogs after I install them to see if they make a difference. I'm at ~210k miles.

Doin it for education!

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Looking forward to it! I’m at 195k miles...


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[BADCLOWN]

I’m guessing 32 and 25 are the respective offsets?


I believe so yeah

[johnrando]

I bought them. I'll run some datalogs after I install them to see if they make a difference. I'm at ~210k miles.

Doin it for education!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkDef interested in the results

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[san]

Anybody heard of these before?


https://www.garagistic.com/products/e46-front-strut-bar-garagistic-bmw-m3-323-325-328-330



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[704sw]

Anybody heard of these before?


https://www.garagistic.com/products/e46-front-strut-bar-garagistic-bmw-m3-323-325-328-330



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I have several Garagistic products (various bushings, etc). No experience with their strut bar but I’d have little to no hesitation buying things from them. They’re very well regarded in the E30 community.

[san]

I have several Garagistic products (various bushings, etc). No experience with their strut bar but I’d have little to no hesitation buying things from them. They’re very well regarded in the E30 community.

Thanks Spenser. I will probably get the strut tower brace.


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[papa_g]

Thanks Spenser. I will probably get the strut tower brace.


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Get an BMW or ///M sticker and slap in on that bad boy! Genuine oem producto straight from Germantown!


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Sorry, posted in wrong section!

[ZHP_Brandon]

Hey guys so I’m noticing I have a small wet spot forming (like really small) coming from my valve cover & I plan on doing another valve cover gasket (though I feel this is premature wear and tear)

But I have a question, when I did it last I did the Valve Cover, Spark Plugs, Vanos Overhaul (no sensors or solenoids were changed)


Should I have replaced sensors such as the intake/exhaust solenoids, camshaft intake/exhaust sensors?

I get no codes across the board for such sensors but I wonder if I changing them would affect the performance of my car.


Edit:

Also have considered going the M56 Metal Valve cover route, just unsure of the benefits besides deleting the CCV system (which is brand new, pretty sure I did it in the last 6-8K miles or so)

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[stephenkirsh]

I’m only aware of the CCV delete, and a potentially not warping valve cover (because it’s metal) with the m56 cover.

[ZHPizza]

I’m only aware of the CCV delete, and a potentially not warping valve cover (because it’s metal) with the m56 cover.That's pretty much it

[704sw]

I’ve started to noticed a slight rattle from my passenger door when the window is down (either partially down or all the way). This rattle is not present when the window is up.

Could this be an early indication of a developing window regulator issue? The window doesn’t seem to have any issues going up or down (yet).

[papa_g]

I’ve started to noticed a slight rattle from my passenger door when the window is down (either partially down or all the way). This rattle is not present when the window is up.

Could this be an early indication of a developing window regulator issue? The window doesn’t seem to have any issues going up or down (yet).

When were your engine mounts last replaced?


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[704sw]

When were your engine mounts last replaced?


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They’re fresh

[Yankeefan]

Can someone tell me where this small broken vacuum hose runs? I'm hoping it's the reason for my P0171 and P0174 codes.
35965

[stephenkirsh]

I’ve started to noticed a slight rattle from my passenger door when the window is down (either partially down or all the way). This rattle is not present when the window is up.

Could this be an early indication of a developing window regulator issue? The window doesn’t seem to have any issues going up or down (yet).

I would say yes

[John in VA]

Can someone tell me where this small broken vacuum hose runs? I'm hoping it's the reason for my P0171 and P0174 codes.
35965

The smaller vacuum hose on the F-connector has broken - those two pieces are meant to be connected. It goes to the fuel pressure regulator on your fuel filter. It snakes up from under the driver's seat to the driver's side firewall, is held in place by a rubber clip, where the vacuum line then runs to the F-connector (part #13-32-7-503-677).
Vacuum hose plus plastic pipe, #s 4 & 5 on the diagram:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BN53-USA-09_1999_E46_BMW_330Ci&diagId=13_0904#13328230397
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/images/diag_1oqq.png

F-connector (part #13-32-7-503-677):
https://assets4.fcpeuro.com/public/assets/products/216633/large/open-uri20150625-18931-mwg9g4.?1496473829

[ComradeNick]

Can someone tell me where this small broken vacuum hose runs? I'm hoping it's the reason for my P0171 and P0174 codes.
35965It connects to the fuel filter and is supposed to be an overflow. It would def cause a vacuum leak.

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[YoitsTmac]

Jesus Christ and all that is holy. My windshield wipers suck. Someone please recommend a brand. I’m currently using Bosch and my last set was great but. Recommendations? A,Aton links preferred for an upcoming drive.

[704sw]

Jesus Christ and all that is holy. My windshield wipers suck. Someone please recommend a brand. I’m currently using Bosch and my last set was great but. Recommendations? A,Aton links preferred for an upcoming drive.

I always buy Michelin blades from Costco.

[Vas]

Jesus Christ and all that is holy. My windshield wipers suck. Someone please recommend a brand. I’m currently using Bosch and my last set was great but. Recommendations? A,Aton links preferred for an upcoming drive.Best blades out there are the BMW Evo flat blades. Part number is 61610037009





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[ComradeNick]

Best blades out there are the BMW Evo flat blades. Part number is 61610037009





Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkI can vouch for these, I had the stock e46 wiper blades that didnt really do anything for a long time, then switched to the Bosch icons which didnt fit the windshield at all before getting these. These hang off the passenger side a little but still work great.

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[YoitsTmac]

I got my windshield replaced in September. I suspect my wiper issues are because of this, and I may need a replacement.

I first got the Costco Michelin wipers. One would wipe the lower left half of my windshield. It was raining and I was starting a 500 mile trip to uni, so I bit my upper lip and bought the $40 BMW wipers, which fell out of the wiper arm entirely. Putting them back on returning to Northern California, it wouldn't mate flush with the windshield when laying flat. Super weird.. I suspect something isn't installed correctly on the arm or even worse, the entire windshield is miss shaped.

F*ck. It is ultimate raining session and all my stuff is in SoCal

[Chaplian]

I got my windshield replaced in September. I suspect my wiper issues are because of this, and I may need a replacement.

I first got the Costco Michelin wipers. One would wipe the lower left half of my windshield. It was raining and I was starting a 500 mile trip to uni, so I bit my upper lip and bought the $40 BMW wipers, which fell out of the wiper arm entirely. Putting them back on returning to Northern California, it wouldn't mate flush with the windshield when laying flat. Super weird.. I suspect something isn't installed correctly on the arm or even worse, the entire windshield is miss shaped.

F*ck. It is ultimate raining session and all my stuff is in SoCal

A good stop gap would be applying RainX to your windshield. Over 50 or so, you shouldn’t even need wipers unless it’s a really heavy downpour.


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[704sw]

I got my windshield replaced in September. I suspect my wiper issues are because of this, and I may need a replacement.

I first got the Costco Michelin wipers. One would wipe the lower left half of my windshield.

Maybe the wiper arms are somehow out of alignment? I haven’t looked into the mechanics of the wiper system so I have no idea if that’s even possible.


A good stop gap would be applying RainX to your windshield. Over 50 or so, you shouldn’t even need wipers unless it’s a really heavy downpour.

RainX is my jam, been using it for 15 years. The only time I actually use my wipers is in the neighborhood or parking lots.

[az3579]

Even with RainX, having so many water drops on my windshield drives me nuts. Lol

For wipers I just use the Bosch ones from FCP Euro and replace them twice a year... For free. [emoji4]

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[YoitsTmac]

Even with RainX, having so many water drops on my windshield drives me nuts. Lol

For wipers I just use the Bosch ones from FCP Euro and replace them twice a year... For free. [emoji4]

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How does that become cost efficient with shipping? The ones on there now are Bosch FCP

BOYS, this is it. My car, Mia, is officially a manual. My left leg is killing me, knot in my butt. Intense up so hard but I don’t stall. My favorite was I was so tired I clutched in to start it and immediately released as if it was a brake pedal in an automatic. Habits will have to change...

I went with Garagtastic track transmission mounts. My car is literally vibrating apart. I’m placing an order tonigh. I had UUC black on my last car and it was great, but this time my car will have poly diff bushings. Should I go M3 or return to UUC black if I liked them?

[John in VA]

My car, Mia, is officially a manual. My left leg is killing me, knot in my butt. Intense up so hard but I don’t stall. My favorite was I was so tired I clutched in to start it and immediately released as if it was a brake pedal in an automatic. Habits will have to change.
Sounds like you need to do some piriformis muscle stretches. Google it & do them at least twice a day!

[YoitsTmac]

Sounds like you need to do some piriformis muscle stretches. Google it & do them at least twice a day!

Definitely a mix of tensing up, sore from doing the swap last night, and weak muscles. I should have done those stretches before yesterday... Gym and properly stretching are on my daily list once I feel better.

Also does anyone know the PN for the grommet that would cover the whole the upper left corner of the shifter? It's where the Automatic shifter cable would go through. Without it, me and the starter talk to each other in the morning :)

[704sw]

How does that become cost efficient with shipping? The ones on there now are Bosch FCP

He’s local to FCP so he just goes in person.


BOYS, this is it. My car, Mia, is officially a manual. My left leg is killing me, knot in my butt. Intense up so hard but I don’t stall. My favorite was I was so tired I clutched in to start it and immediately released as if it was a brake pedal in an automatic. Habits will have to change...

I went with Garagtastic track transmission mounts. My car is literally vibrating apart. I’m placing an order tonigh. I had UUC black on my last car and it was great, but this time my car will have poly diff bushings. Should I go M3 or return to UUC black if I liked them?

Congrats on the manual conversion—now it’s time to unlearn all those A/T habits.

I like the M3 mounts for spirited driving. I have poly in right now but as soon as I starting building a dedicated track car and the ZHP is retired from track driving I will 100% be taking the poly tranny bushings back out.

[az3579]

How does that become cost efficient with shipping? The ones on there now are Bosch FCP


He’s local to FCP so he just goes in person.

Yes, I do drive there (15 mins from me), but even for those shipping, it costs about half of a new set of blades (shipping to your door and returning the set), so it's still cost efficient even for those who have to ship.

[YoitsTmac]

He’s local to FCP so he just goes in person.

Congrats on the manual conversion—now it’s time to unlearn all those A/T habits.

I like the M3 mounts for spirited driving. I have poly in right now but as soon as I starting building a dedicated track car and the ZHP is retired from track driving I will 100% be taking the poly tranny bushings back out.

Yeah, gotta drop the habits for sure. I might not be so lucky on my location next time. Getting better quickly. I just tense up my entire body so hard shifting focusing on a smooth shift. I need to take myself to a parking lot tomorrow to just practice smooth shifting. The less I think, the better I do. But then I start thinking about repeating good shifts and I fall apart. I'm not awful. If you hopped in with me I think you'd think I've driven one manual all my life and then suddenly drove this and had to get used to the grab point.

I did handle the hills of Berkeley in traffic tonight. My biggest issue right now is that when I want to get off the line quicker, I give myself more gas without also grabbing the clutch harder. So it revs up to like 3k and then I let off and I'm fully engaged (clearly barely applying pressure to the clutch). My other issue is when revs fall too hard due to too little clutch, I clutch out instead of giving more gas. For what it's worth, most of my launches are under 2k to be kind to the clutch.


Yes, I do drive there (15 mins from me), but even for those shipping, it costs about half of a new set of blades (shipping to your door and returning the set), so it's still cost efficient even for those who have to ship.
Oh gotcha. I saw there were some inserts that used to be sold, but they're gone. I have the EVO blades, but read a TIS that says a part of my blade has to be removed for those to work. BMW offered to install them and didn't read their own instructions. I suspect they'll work fine after I remove it and then I'll do a warranty on the bosch.

[ZHPizza]

I have the EVO blades, but read a TIS that says a part of my blade has to be removed for those to work. BMW offered to install them and didn't read their own instructions. I suspect they'll work fine after I remove it and then I'll do a warranty on the bosch.

That's what popped into my head when I read your post about the wipers not sitting flat on the windshield. I had the same issue when I bought my car and ordered new wipers and had to really dig around when they didn't fit either. Breaking that piece out of the arm makes all the difference!

[YoitsTmac]

That's what popped into my head when I read your post about the wipers not sitting flat on the windshield. I had the same issue when I bought my car and ordered new wipers and had to really dig around when they didn't fit either. Breaking that piece out of the arm makes all the difference!

I just would have never thought that you could even do that. I took it off before heading up to NorCal but noticed the little metal part of the arm was just the lightest smidge below the highest point of the "blade", so I was scared with enough flexing it could potentially scratch my windshield. I could grind it down but then I'd never be able to go back to the old style. I'll just post a pic here and see if people say its safe, when I get back. Off to learn some more clutching!

[YoitsTmac]

Went to my buddies to help with his engine swap. I gave him a ride in my car and he says my noises are beyond bushings, and are perhaps a misbalance. Everything was torqued and the pressure plate has pins where it can only go in one way, right? Any thoughts? Obviously I won't know until new transmission bushings come in. It sounds like I'm in a mustang. Also, I do have an open hole where the AT shifter cable went

video of sound: https://youtu.be/bwci03vsuuY

And I 'm buying new wipers but my windshield is just holding water heavily, even after I clean it. I have water spots that show as the wipers go over the windshield, and I suspect they are little differences in friction on the windshield that water can grab onto. Do other windshields have this from lots of rain or is there a way to treat this? Man I feel stupid right now.

edit: I'm so sorry I don't know how to make the image smaller
36011

[JPMo]

And I 'm buying new wipers but my windshield is just holding water heavily, even after I clean it. I have water spots that show as the wipers go over the windshield, and I suspect they are little differences in friction on the windshield that water can grab onto. Do other windshields have this from lots of rain or is there a way to treat this? Man I feel stupid right now.

edit: I'm so sorry I don't know how to make the image smaller
36011

Yeah mine is not like that but it’s probably super annoying. Looks like water spots or some kind of contamination. I’d try to polish the windshield. There are dedicated glass polishes and pads but honestly I’ve gotten results with a cheap Wal-Mart polisher and meguiars ultimate compound. Just tape off the windshield trim and slowly work the polish in until it’s clear and oily looking. I’ve been able to get rid of minor water spots on glass like that. After that definitely put rainX or some kind of glass sealant on, to help your wipers out.

[704sw]

Yeah mine is not like that but it’s probably super annoying. Looks like water spots or some kind of contamination. I’d try to polish the windshield. There are dedicated glass polishes and pads but honestly I’ve gotten results with a cheap Wal-Mart polisher and meguiars ultimate compound. Just tape off the windshield trim and slowly work the polish in until it’s clear and oily looking. I’ve been able to get rid of minor water spots on glass like that. After that definitely put rainX or some kind of glass sealant on, to help your wipers out.

I also use standard polish on windows. Don’t forget you can also clay bar glass to help lift up contaminants.

[stephenkirsh]

What’s a bad AT habit...?

[YoitsTmac]

What’s a bad AT habit...?

Letting your foot off the pedals before turning off the engine. Almost met my garage door and the curb of a parking lot.

[papa_g]

What’s a bad AT habit...?

Putting your car into park AND THEN pulling the e-brake... Should go neutral, e-brake, check to make sure car doesnt budge, then park.

[ComradeNick]

My mechanic quoted me almost 800 for the 100k ATF flush with 260 parts. That seems like way too much or does that sound about right?

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[papa_g]

My mechanic quoted me almost 800 for the 100k ATF flush with 260 parts. That seems like way too much or does that sound about right?

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Proper flush, or simple drain and fill? For a flush maybe it’s ok since they use a fancy machine, but I would say too much for a drain and fill, even if they do it 3x


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[Chaplian]

My mechanic quoted me almost 800 for the 100k ATF flush with 260 parts. That seems like way too much or does that sound about right?

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Way too much. $250-350 with OEM fluid.


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[704sw]

My mechanic quoted me almost 800 for the 100k ATF flush with 260 parts. That seems like way too much or does that sound about right?

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Is that literally just a flush, or changing the AT filter too? A full service kit with filter is $155 from FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transmission-service-kit-24117560575kit

[ComradeNick]

Is that literally just a flush, or changing the AT filter too? A full service kit with filter is $155 from FCP.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-transmission-service-kit-24117560575kitFilter


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[stephenkirsh]

Putting your car into park AND THEN pulling the e-brake... Should go neutral, e-brake, check to make sure car doesnt budge, then park.

The vast majority of people I see, even the employees at my BMW-only Indy, never use the parking brake on my auto e46s.

[stephenkirsh]

Letting your foot off the pedals before turning off the engine. Almost met my garage door and the curb of a parking lot.

Uhh... I don’t follow. How’d that happen with a manual?

I often kill the engine on my manual mx5 before it’s 100% stationary.

I have two AT e46s.

[704sw]

Uhh... I don’t follow. How’d that happen with a manual?

I often kill the engine on my manual mx5 before it’s 100% stationary.

I have two AT e46s.

I’m assuming it was in gear and lurched forward when it stalled? Idk I park in neutral as long as it’s flat.

[YoitsTmac]

Uhh... I don’t follow. How’d that happen with a manual?

I often kill the engine on my manual mx5 before it’s 100% stationary.

I have two AT e46s.

In an auto, you can park, let off all the pedals, hang out and turn off the engine at any time

In a manual, if you’re trying to turn it off in gear, you have to wait for the engine to turn off entirely. At target, I I clutched out at the same time I turned off the car. The car had some revs as it died and with me clutching out, it went forward

In my garage, I clutched in to turn on the car. In an auto, you hit the brake to start (or I do anyway out of habit for keyless) and then you can let off. In a manual, if you clutch in to start, you have to move to neutral before letting out the clutch. I just went into automatic mode. I had my car parked in first and forgot, so when I clutched out to pick my music on my phone before I head out, I basically clutch kicked idle in first while in my garage.

I’m sure these feel obvious but as someone who’s been grown into a family of automagics, these are habits I have to drop. I’m the first in my bloodline to care at all about driving. A lot of these issues I talk about with my mom and she even says “oh, I totally forgot it was like that!” She’s itching for me to break the clutch in as she lightly regrets getting her 4 series in an automatic. She’s had it for 4 months or so and now that she’s in a “drivers car,” she’s itching for a third pedal.

[papa_g]

The vast majority of people I see, even the employees at my BMW-only Indy, never use the parking brake on my auto e46s.

Doesn’t mean you should follow their lead. Would you rather have your brakes hold the weight of the car, or your transmission?


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[az3579]

Doesn’t mean you should follow their lead. Would you rather have your brakes hold the weight of the car, or your transmission?


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There is something about seeing people park in a parking lot and having their cars lurch back and forth after putting in park and not using the parking brake properly that makes my skin crawl!

[papa_g]

There is something about seeing people park in a parking lot and having their cars lurch back and forth after putting in park and not using the parking brake properly that makes my skin crawl!

Haha seriously!


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[stephenkirsh]

Doesn’t mean you should follow their lead. Would you rather have your brakes hold the weight of the car, or your transmission?


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No, but my point is literally nobody does things the “right” way with cars. Not even the mechanics.

[papa_g]

No, but my point is literally nobody does things the “right” way with cars. Not even the mechanics.

Yeah, it’s a shame. My girlfriend drives me up the wall the way she leaves her a/c running constantly.


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[stephenkirsh]

Yeah, it’s a shame. My girlfriend drives me up the wall the way she leaves her a/c running constantly.


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That’s exactly the kind of thing I’m taking about.

Always running the AC is weird to some people like us. To the other 99.9%, it’s normal.

And car engineers know this and design the cars to work that way.

[Will]

hahaha. I'm one of those that run the AC consistently. Even when I have the heater going, my AC is on. I'll gladly eat the 1 mpg penalty for the the dehumidifying effects of AC.

Having lived in SE Asia when I was young, I think I have PTSD about humidity. Hot and dry, like Vegas or Phoenix, no problem. Warm and humid, no thanks. Hot and humid, hell no.

[JohnnyGraphic]

hahaha. I'm one of those that run the AC consistently. Even when I have the heater going, my AC is on. I'll gladly eat the 1 mpg penalty for the the dehumidifying effects of AC.

Having lived in SE Asia when I was young, I think I have PTSD about humidity. Hot and dry, like Vegas or Phoenix, no problem. Warm and humid, no thanks. Hot and humid, hell no.

I also run the AC all the time. If I have the heater going without it, then the windows get all fogged up, especially if you have more people in the car.

[papa_g]

That extra mpg lost is one thing. I guess what I am more concerned about is the longevity an quality of the a/c system. My understanding is the system needs to dry out a bit before turning off the engine to inhibit growth of mold and bacteria. Also could be bad for the compressor, leading to premature failure? Someone correct me if I’m wrong.


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[az3579]

Just use Auto, guys...

[ComradeNick]

Just use Auto, guys...Yeah I set it to auto and never touched anything aside from the vent dial since I got it.

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[stephenkirsh]

That extra mpg lost is one thing. I guess what I am more concerned about is the longevity an quality of the a/c system. My understanding is the system needs to dry out a bit before turning off the engine to inhibit growth of mold and bacteria. Also could be bad for the compressor, leading to premature failure? Someone correct me if I’m wrong.


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Bacteria where?

I’ve never once heard of this.

I try to limit my AC use simply to prolong the life of the components, but use it when I need to.

The AC system is all original in my 1995 Miata. It’s been recharged twice in 25 years. Everything still works.

[papa_g]

Bacteria where?

I’ve never once heard of this.

I try to limit my AC use simply to prolong the life of the components, but use it when I need to.

The AC system is all original in my 1995 Miata. It’s been recharged twice in 25 years. Everything still works.

I’ve heard of mold/bacteria growing in the dryer and on the evaporator from condensation. Can be responsible for nasty smelling a/c.
On my ZHP I had a broken compressor, and leaks in the condenser and a/c lines. Don’t know why the system failed before it even hit 85k.


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[ZHPizza]

The manual suggests leaving the A/C toggled on and the climate control in auto throughout the winter as it will use it for defrosting.

It's also good for it to cycle some over winter to keep the seals from drying out.

The mold issue that has been brought up is when you run the a/c for a while and the vents build up condensation before you shut the car off. The only way to combat this is running the fan without a/c for the last 5-10 minutes of your trip to dry out the vents.

[papa_g]

^this. Well, all in all I learned something new. Going to make friends with my auto button now :)

[johnrando]

If I do run a/c, I always try to run the fans w/o a/c before I shut off.

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[tristero]

Bacteria where?

I’ve never once heard of this.

I try to limit my AC use simply to prolong the life of the components, but use it when I need to.

The AC system is all original in my 1995 Miata. It’s been recharged twice in 25 years. Everything still works.

Dang. Now you have me wondering if I get dust collecting in the system, would the fungus that causes "valley fever" be able to grow in there?
(/checks cabin air filter . . . )

[BMWCurves]

Dang. Now you have me wondering if I get dust collecting in the system, would the fungus that causes "valley fever" be able to grow in there?
(/checks cabin air filter . . . )

Mmmm coccidiodomycosis!

[papa_g]

Mmmm coccidiodomycosis!

somebody was paying attention in microbio

[BMWCurves]

somebody was paying attention in microbio

I have my Step 1 exam coming up for medical school. Gotta know the micro, even though I'm terrible at it. What has white halos on India ink?

[papa_g]

I have my Step 1 exam coming up for medical school. Gotta know the micro, even though I'm terrible at it. What has white halos on India ink?

Wait i think i may have known you were in med school...thats awesome dude! I am starting PA school on Jan 14, so I've been reviewing A&P lately.
One of my best friends is studying for his Step1 right now. He did med school in China (which he regrets now) so he has to study on his own and is super stressed. How's your pharmacology? He thinks that's the hardest.

white halos on india ink means it is gram +....? or is it a specific microbe that does that?

[Galapolis]

I'm looking for the rear bumper strip for cars with MTech II bumper and PDC. According to RealOEM, the part number should be 51128195317, but on sites like Turner and FCP that just leads to the regular strip without PDC holes. Does someone know where I could find what I'm looking for?

[pedro2u]

on RealOEM, it seems like the only part that mentions that it's different for PDC for the rear M bumper is 51122492229 (#6 in the diagram)

[pedro2u]

I'm looking for the rear bumper strip for cars with MTech II bumper and PDC. According to RealOEM, the part number should be 51128195317, but on sites like Turner and FCP that just leads to the regular strip without PDC holes. Does someone know where I could find what I'm looking for?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-77968-51122492229-genuine-bmw-part/

[Galapolis]

Thanks for finding the part. Holy moly that thing is expensive! Guess I'll be hunting for something used instead.

EDIT: Actually, that look like its for MTech I. So there is no difference for PDC strips between MTech II and the standard bumper? In that case I might just try to reuse my current strip.

[pedro2u]

You should double check RealOEM for your exact part number. I didn't know what body style car you have, but it looked like your original part # in your post was for a sedan..... I assume you've input your VIN on RealOEM and then gone into Vehicle Trim to get the part number

[Overboost]

I got mine straight from the dealer. I can't remember the price but was under $75 with overnight delivery to my dealer (Hendrick BMW Northlake) for my sedan.

[Galapolis]

You should double check RealOEM for your exact part number. I didn't know what body style car you have, but it looked like your original part # in your post was for a sedan..... I assume you've input your VIN on RealOEM and then gone into Vehicle Trim to get the part number

It's a FL sedan and I assume it wouldn't show up if I entered my VIN since my car did not come with the M package from factory. I want to install a M-Tech II rear bumper to complete the look and all the eBay bumpers come with the standard strip for cars without PDC, hence why I'm looking to buy a PDC strip. The center strip was different for M-Tech on the front bumper, so I figured it would be the same on the rear, but if it's the same part between bumpers then that's even better.

I'll just see if i can reuse my old strip and if not I might try the tip with the dealer. It'll be genuine BMW no matter where I buy it, so I wouldn't save much online anyway it seems.

[pedro2u]

It's a FL sedan and I assume it wouldn't show up if I entered my VIN since my car did not come with the M package from factory. I want to install a M-Tech II rear bumper to complete the look and all the eBay bumpers come with the standard strip for cars without PDC, hence why I'm looking to buy a PDC strip. The center strip was different for M-Tech on the front bumper, so I figured it would be the same on the rear, but if it's the same part between bumpers then that's even better.

I'll just see if i can reuse my old strip and if not I might try the tip with the dealer. It'll be genuine BMW no matter where I buy it, so I wouldn't save much online anyway it seems.

When you go to Vehicle Trim, it gives you the choice to choose regular Rear Trim Cover or M Trim cover. Enter your VIN...... may the force be with you....

[Galapolis]

That seems to have done the trick, new part number: 51127893306

Shows right up on Turner and explicitly says M: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23403-51127893306-genuine-bmw-part/

Nice and affordable too. Thanks!

[racer2086]

yes that is the correct number. just put it on my car a few months ago. you definitely want this and not reuse the regular strip. Under $50.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/rubber-strip/51127893306/

[RUS_ZHP]

Anybody is using TYC branded front clear turn signals? I am thinking to buy them to complete clear set on my car. I would like to buy OEM, but cannot find them. ECS running sells them, but they are keeping to push stock estimate. Currently, they suppose to be back in stock at the end of March.
I know that DEPO brand is available everywhere, but I know that quality is pretty sad, so that is not an option for me. That is why I am trying to find out if TYC is a decent alternative for OEM.


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[fredo]

My E90 335 needed a taillight. I went with TYC, no complaints. Good quality and fit. I bought mine in Amazon.

[Galapolis]

I have TYC Amber turn signals in the front. I think they are pretty good for the price. Good fitment and looks exactly like OEM.

[RUS_ZHP]

Thank you for feedback guys.

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[holyc0w]

I have one TYC corner light. The gasket broke, so based on this limited sample I can't say that the quality is oem equivalent. Meanwhile, the other corner with what I'm guessing is the original BMW light is looking fine.

I've been holding off on replacement, but want to find something soon-ish.

[RUS_ZHP]

I have one TYC corner light. The gasket broke, so based on this limited sample I can't say that the quality is oem equivalent. Meanwhile, the other corner with what I'm guessing is the original BMW light is looking fine.

I've been holding off on replacement, but want to find something soon-ish.How long gasket had lasted? Did you get them new?

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[holyc0w]

How long gasket had lasted? Did you get them new?

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The prior owner got them, so I don't know how long this one lasted.

[Galapolis]

I'm looking at getting a cup kit and I want to replace my strut mounts with the Z4 mounts in the process for more low. When I look up Z4 mounts on places like FCP they just end up showing the mounts as interchangeable with E46, which they indeed are, but that makes it hard to ensure that I get the lower mounts on the left vs. what I currently have which is on the right.

36113

Does someone know where I can get the lower mounts and not risk being sent the tall mounts?

[stephenkirsh]

Do you have the specific part number?

[Galapolis]

Yes, it's SACHS 802 066.

[RUS_ZHP]

I'm looking at getting a cup kit and I want to replace my strut mounts with the Z4 mounts in the process for more low. When I look up Z4 mounts on places like FCP they just end up showing the mounts as interchangeable with E46, which they indeed are, but that makes it hard to ensure that I get the lower mounts on the left vs. what I currently have which is on the right.

36113

Does someone know where I can get the lower mounts and not risk being sent the tall mounts?That is interesting. What is the advantage of upgrading to Z4 part? Higher durometer rubber compound?

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[704sw]

That is interesting. What is the advantage of upgrading to Z4 part? Higher durometer rubber compound?

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Looks like about 1/3-1/2” drop up front without having to get different springs. I’m curious if/how much it changes the caster angle.

[Galapolis]

Spenser is spot on, the Z4 mounts are a popular upgrade over at the German E46 forum to get 10mm lowering in the front without changing springs. They are also supposed to be a little stronger (what Meyle would call heavy duty) as they use less rubber, but they are heavier as a result. They seem to be hard to find outside of Germany. The pic is from this eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-verstarkte-Domlager-10mm-Tieferlegung-VA-fur-BMW-E90-E81-E46-E60/151018809501

If I understand correctly, early E46 models came with these as standard, but facelift models and ZHP's came with the updated taller design.

[ZHPizza]

Spenser is spot on, the Z4 mounts are a popular upgrade over at the German E46 forum to get 10mm lowering in the front without changing springs. They are also supposed to be a little stronger (what Meyle would call heavy duty) as they use less rubber, but they are heavier as a result. They seem to be hard to find outside of Germany. The pic is from this eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-verstarkte-Domlager-10mm-Tieferlegung-VA-fur-BMW-E90-E81-E46-E60/151018809501

If I understand correctly, early E46 models came with these as standard, but facelift models and ZHP's came with the updated taller design.

Hey that's pretty cool right there. Thanks for bringing the German forum knowledge over!

Best price I'm seeing is at FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-mount-sachs-31306785962

Edit: ok a little cheaper at CARiD, but I'd rather you support FCP since they're good to us over here
https://www.carid.com/sachs/front-strut-mount-mpn-803148.html

Edit2: You know what would be even better than lowering the ride height, though? More camber and caster. Check out my posts on this thread (https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1261039) and let me know if you want to try out the e36 M3 mounts that I have in the garage (you can take them and my spring compressor next week when you're in CLT). I don't even want any dollars -- just want someone to prove this concept out since I don't have time.

[Galapolis]

Best price I'm seeing is at FCP: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-mount-sachs-31306785962

You found it! Thanks!

I'd be down to try out the E36 M3 mounts. The E36 mounts are technically also usable on E46 suspension, so if the E36 M3 mount fits on E36 non-M, then it will fit on the E46 as well. Since I'm looking at getting the B12 Sportline soon (backordered atm), it probably makes the most sense to wait until I get the kit and then assemble it with your mounts. I'll let you know when the kit comes in, right now it looks like it will be at the beginning of next month. I can postpone my trip until then.

[stephenkirsh]

Spenser is spot on, the Z4 mounts are a popular upgrade over at the German E46 forum to get 10mm lowering in the front without changing springs. They are also supposed to be a little stronger (what Meyle would call heavy duty) as they use less rubber, but they are heavier as a result. They seem to be hard to find outside of Germany. The pic is from this eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-verstarkte-Domlager-10mm-Tieferlegung-VA-fur-BMW-E90-E81-E46-E60/151018809501

If I understand correctly, early E46 models came with these as standard, but facelift models and ZHP's came with the updated taller design.

I’m quite certain the strut mount was not changed based on year. That’s a huge change to be using the same springs between the years, which they did.

[704sw]

I’m quite certain the strut mount was not changed based on year. That’s a huge change to be using the same springs between the years, which they did.

Especially since the Z4 did not exist until after the E46 facelift occurred.

[Galapolis]

Information is somewhat scattered and I'm still trying to get to understand it myself. There is a collection on strut mount data here:https://www.e46-forum.de/index.php?thread/47994-gesammelte-daten-%C3%BCber-e46-speziell-n42/&postID=901797#post901797

Sorry, I should have been more specific. What I meant is that early E46 models came with shorter strut mounts. Not Z4 mounts. According to the info I linked, strut mounts were 55mm tall until Nov. 2003 and 60mm tall after that. Here is the 55mm version (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/shock-mount-repair-kit/31352241445/) from early cars and here is the 60mm version (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/rear-shock-mount-kit-priced-each/31352241448/) from later cars.

The early E36 and Z4 mounts (both have the same part number according to the link) were 45mm tall. This is the part that ZHPizza linked from FCPEuro. There seems to be a newer version of this part, basically having been replaced with Sachs 802066. This is the number I see cropping up when people ask about Z4 mounts, but this part does not seem to be available outside of Europe. The new Sachs part is 50mm tall (this is what must be for sale in the eBay listing I posted). In that case, the older Sachs part (45mm) that ZHPizza posted (link) (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-mount-sachs-31306785962) would actually be 15mm shorter than a stock ZHP mount, or 0.6", which is quite a significant drop.

Then there is the XDrive version of the part that ZHPizza linked, which would be 31306785962 or this part: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-strut-mount-z4-328i-xdrive-335i-xdrive-31306785962 If I understand correctly, it is the same part (and same height???) as 31336779613, except that it is sturdier.

Finally, there is Sachs 802186, which is 60mm tall like the stock E46 strut mount after Nov. 2003.

Hope that clears it up.

[stephenkirsh]

I’ve not really seen any E46 suspension that’s “euro” only.

Have you contacted any actual shops, or a parts place like Turner or Bimmerworld? They might be your best bet.

[John in VA]

Parts are often superceded (by number & physically) & are no longer available unless new old stock. I, too, like the idea of the small front drop without changing springs.

[Galapolis]

I’ve not really seen any E46 suspension that’s “euro” only.

Neither have I when it comes to OEM, it's just one specific Z4 part that doesn't seem to be easily available here (50mm Sachs 802066). You can get the older 45mm part though, so there's really no reason to look for 802066. That being said, looks like Rockauto does have it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/sachs,802066,strut+mount,7600

[NYRhockey]

Do i have a condensation problem in my zhp? Came out of the office on what was a beautiful, clear day to find my car really fogged up. Not wanting to wait for the defogger to do its thing, i decided to use my hand to wipe my side of the windshield and as i did that drops of water would splash onto the dashboard. Seems excessive water inside and it was a dry day as well.

[NYRhockey]

36181


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[ZHPizza]

Do i have a condensation problem in my zhp? Came out of the office on what was a beautiful, clear day to find my car really fogged up. Not wanting to wait for the defogger to do its thing, i decided to use my hand to wipe my side of the windshield and as i did that drops of water would splash onto the dashboard. Seems excessive water inside and it was a dry day as well.Built up moisture in the floorboards from your boots?

[NYRhockey]

Built up moisture in the floorboards from your boots?

Nope. Car had been garaged for over a week and it was a clear day with no rain.


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[ZHPizza]

Nope. Car had been garaged for over a week and it was a clear day with no rain.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeaking heater core is my bet then

[anubis.rs]

The inner seal on my driver window is folding down stressing the window motor. Looking on ecs tuning what's driver side? Left or right? And which part is the one pictured.

I'm sorry if this has been covered I apologise, I've searched to no avail. And don't wanna cause an unnecessary issue.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/406789e67af5d1c7515ac80a273a418b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200128/cb69fd6d788b30802e80f511d774aaeb.jpg

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[John in VA]

Looking on ecs tuning what's driver side? Left or right?
Imagine the car as you're sitting in it. For US, driver's side = left = part # ends in an odd number. Even part #s are for the right side.

[anubis.rs]

Imagine the car as you're sitting in it. For US, driver's side = left = part # ends in an odd number. Even part #s are for the right side.Part number ending in odd vs even for said side is about the best thing I've seen, definitely useful for so many things. Thank you!

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[pedro2u]

RealOEM is one of the go to references for parts. Go to realoem.com (realoem.com) and enter your VIN (and then bookmark the page for future use). Then browse for parts

I suspect you should be able to find your part under either Vehicle Trim or BodyWork

[stephenkirsh]

Imagine the car as you're sitting in it. For US, driver's side = left = part # ends in an odd number. Even part #s are for the right side.

Whoa. I never noticed that.

What about parts that aren’t L/R specific?

[John in VA]

Whoa. I never noticed that.
What about parts that aren’t L/R specific?
It varies. Just checked for grins - steering wheel is odd, the trim is even; alloy wheels are even, center cap is even.

[NYRhockey]

Do i have a condensation problem in my zhp? Came out of the office on what was a beautiful, clear day to find my car really fogged up. Not wanting to wait for the defogger to do its thing, i decided to use my hand to wipe my side of the windshield and as i did that drops of water would splash onto the dashboard. Seems excessive water inside and it was a dry day as well.

Took jt to work today and same problem except due to cold temps i now have frost INSIDE the zhp. Damn it..




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[stephenkirsh]

Run the AC with the heater. AC acts as a condenser, drying the air.

[stephenkirsh]

Did a track day at Thunderhill. Noticed a tire wear pattern I’ve not seen before.

Conti Extreme Contact on fronts. Gripped wonderfully. Loved it.

I noticed the middle rib is worn at an angle. This is only on the front passenger side. The 4 hardest corners at the track are left handers (throwing weight to the right), so it makes sense.

Is this a PSI issue, or tire design, over-driving the tire, or something else?

I pushed the car to my limits this time. I knocked 6 seconds off a lap (1:38), which I’ve never done before. I explored pushing the front to understeer on a few corners.

Any thoughts?

36226

[stephenkirsh]

Bump?

[sillieidiot]

Do you feel any blocking/feathering on the shoulder at all? I couldn't tell from the picture. But it might be improper toe or caster.

[stephenkirsh]

Not that I’m aware of. It’s wearing pretty evenly otherwise.

[Galapolis]

Where can I find the appropriate INA overunning pulley for my alternator? I've looked on FCP, Turner etc. but can't seem to find it. Do I also need a new belt since it has a larger diameter than the stock pulley? Or should I be fine?

Are either of these the correct part?

https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Passat-Alternator-Clutch-F-225653/dp/B008OV99MC

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-PULLEY-028-903-119T-028-903-165-1-126-601-566-F-225653-03-30140007-/321078659871

[DeathTrap]

Is this what I think it is???https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/3fd36d1bed959a96de07ff76fcece892.jpg

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[Chaplian]

Is this what I think it is???https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200308/3fd36d1bed959a96de07ff76fcece892.jpg

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Yep! I’d scrape it with a pick and if it catches, that’s a confirmed crack.


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[stephenkirsh]

Where can I find the appropriate INA overunning pulley for my alternator? I've looked on FCP, Turner etc. but can't seem to find it. Do I also need a new belt since it has a larger diameter than the stock pulley? Or should I be fine?

Are either of these the correct part?

https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Passat-Alternator-Clutch-F-225653/dp/B008OV99MC

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-PULLEY-028-903-119T-028-903-165-1-126-601-566-F-225653-03-30140007-/321078659871

I haven’t used underdrive pulleys, but everything I’ve seen used a different belt to account for it.

[Yankeefan]

When replacing the OFHG, can you do it without draining the oil? The caption in 50sKid’s video says he heard it’s possible. Anyone done it?

[John in VA]

When replacing the OFHG, can you do it without draining the oil? The caption in 50sKid’s video says he heard it’s possible. Anyone done it?
Not necessary, but you might want to change it afterward to make sure nothing fell into the opening.

[az3579]

When replacing the OFHG, can you do it without draining the oil? The caption in 50sKid’s video says he heard it’s possible. Anyone done it?Yeah, done it twice without draining oil. It's pretty straightforward.

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[stephenkirsh]

Not necessary, but you might want to change it afterward to make sure nothing fell into the opening.

+100 for that. Cheap insurance.


All of the oil sits in the pan at the bottom.

[Yankeefan]

Thanks everyone!

[FungShui]

I purchased a Dinan front strut bar but it didn't include the nuts or bolts. Does anybody know which hardware I should be using?

[PdZHP]

This is the Dinan part number for the hardware kit: D183-1023.

I only needed an eyelet bolt so i ordered from Dinan directly and they shipped it out to me.

[FungShui]

This is the Dinan part number for the hardware kit: D183-1023.

I only needed an eyelet bolt so i ordered from Dinan directly and they shipped it out to me.

Thanks PdZHP!

Separate question:
I noticed FCP Euro is selling two types of cabin air filters. Does anybody have experience with Fercious Plus alternative?

The website states:


"Features a bio-functional layer which traps 100% of allergens and reduces the growth of molds and bacteria by more than 98%".


BMW Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter - Mann 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-charcoal-cabin-air-filter-mann-64319257504)


BMW Charcoal Cabin Air Filter - Corteco 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cabin-air-filter-64319257504-1)

[John in VA]

I noticed FCP Euro is selling two types of cabin air filters. Does anybody have experience with Fercious Plus alternative?
The website states:

"Features a bio-functional layer which traps 100% of allergens and reduces the growth of molds and bacteria by more than 98%".


BMW Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter - Mann 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-charcoal-cabin-air-filter-mann-64319257504)


BMW Charcoal Cabin Air Filter - Corteco 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cabin-air-filter-64319257504-1)

I use them. It's a "premium" filter. Not sure if it's worth twice the $$, but are as cheap as what the dealer offers & replacements will be free from FCP as long as they have their guarantee.

[sillieidiot]

Thanks PdZHP!

Separate question:
I noticed FCP Euro is selling two types of cabin air filters. Does anybody have experience with Fercious Plus alternative?

The website states:


"Features a bio-functional layer which traps 100% of allergens and reduces the growth of molds and bacteria by more than 98%".


BMW Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter - Mann 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-charcoal-cabin-air-filter-mann-64319257504)


BMW Charcoal Cabin Air Filter - Corteco 64319257504 (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-cabin-air-filter-64319257504-1)


It's MANN's version of HEPA filters for cars. It only goes down to PM 2.5 (2.5 microns). I haven't used for the E46 personally, but for one my family's cars it works well. It did reduce the fan power a bit, but the air is cleaner so I guess that's a decent trade off. I'm not sure this filter would affect the fan like in some other vehicles.

Iono if Bosch (actually a HEPA FILTER) has one for our cars, but they have one that is even more crazy (down to 0.3 microns). I just bought it for a friend's Camry, so we'll see how that one works lol

[JPMo]

Anybody know if the e46 M3 undercarriage covers will fit on the E 46 sedan? I’ve seen videos on YouTube of the covers retrofitted on a 330ci but I’m curious to know if I can put them on my sedan, I think would be a cool little aero mod. ECS tuning has it only listed for the M3.
PN 51717892956, 51717892955, 51717892122, 51718244046

[704sw]

Anybody know if the e46 M3 undercarriage covers will fit on the E 46 sedan? I’ve seen videos on YouTube of the covers retrofitted on a 330ci but I’m curious to know if I can put them on my sedan, I think would be a cool little aero mod. ECS tuning has it only listed for the M3.
PN 51717892956, 51717892955, 51717892122, 51718244046

My understanding is the M3 part is unique. When I needed to replace mine I was looking at one of the solid-metal replacements and the company who made them said it wouldn’t fit.

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone have experience seafoaming their ZHP? If so: thoughts? Worth it?

[papa_g]

I have a 2 year old can of sea foam sitting in my garage and I do not know what to do with it haha

[Fenrir]

Anyone have experience seafoaming their ZHP? If so: thoughts? Worth it?

I think I’ve seafoamed mine once. But that was after it was in storage for two years. Seafoam doesn’t play well with the MAF though in my experience.

I used to seafoam my LS and LT cars once a year but I haven’t really needed it with the ZHP. Basic maintenance seems to go a long way with these cars. JP would most likely have the best input on this.

[stephenkirsh]

I think I’ve seafoamed mine once. But that was after it was in storage for two years. Seafoam doesn’t play well with the MAF though in my experience.

I used to seafoam my LS and LT cars once a year but I haven’t really needed it with the ZHP. Basic maintenance seems to go a long way with these cars. JP would most likely have the best input on this.

What benefit did you see on the LS LT cars? I’m assuming those are GM motors you’re referencing?

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone have a proper recommendation for an OBD scanner that’s sub $100, need to purchase one for checking/clearing codes

[Vas]

I would suggest Carly for bmw

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[papa_g]

I've been using OBD Fusion per the recommendation of some of the big guys at e46fanatics. So far I like it, and it has not given me any problems.

[BADCLOWN]

I bought a highly recommended Bluetooth/wireless OBD tool and all the apps it uses require you to have a monthly subscription in order to be able to check and clear codes so I’m looking for something else at this point. Anyone have a wired one they enjoy?

[Fenrir]

What benefit did you see on the LS LT cars? I’m assuming those are GM motors you’re referencing?Sure are. 90s LT1 Camaros and an LS4 Grand Prix GXP . I used it then really to just help knock out the carbon from idling during winter storage.

Seafoam helped clean the older oil and carbon out buuut fouls plugs and will ruin a mass airflow sensor.

I only used it when needed. Otherwise, a track day and Italian tuneup solved most other carbon issues.


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[papa_g]

Random question: do you guys recommend any certain wheel repair kit for our style 135 wheels? Also I need to know if the final product is fragile I.e. when I get new tires in the future, could installation potentially damage the applied putty?


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[sillieidiot]

Random question: do you guys recommend any certain wheel repair kit for our style 135 wheels? Also I need to know if the final product is fragile I.e. when I get new tires in the future, could installation potentially damage the applied putty?


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Well this is the random question thread. They could get damaged if the person using the tire changer doesn't know what they are doing, but then again, it would also ruin a rim that was never repaired as well. I've used everything from bondo, bondo metal filler, and jb weld and they were all fine.

[Prestovie]

Just changed over to my summer wheels/tires yesterday, filled them all up to spec, and now the car wobbles like there's only one lug on every corner holding the wheels on. Wheels are mounted flush to the hub, lugs are tightened down, 225's in the front and 255's in the back on the right way around and I'm just lost. Obviously difficult to diagnose, but a phone call to my brother who's a BMW tech didn't solve anything either. If it were something suspension related then I would imagine I'd be having that problem before mounting the summers.
I guess it could be a tire balancing issue but the weights are all still on, not like its a new set of wheels. Just had the car aligned a few weeks ago with the winters on. I may have just been unlucky and accidentally rotated my tires because I didn't have them marked.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm waiting for it to be something simple but I've looked over everything.
Symptoms: wobble at any speed, seems to be consistent at anywhere from 10mph to 45mph(highest I've gone with this problem), steering wheel bucking back and forth, audible "wubbing" coming from the rear.

[BADCLOWN]

Who makes the best quality headlight halos for our cars?