The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[az3579]

No idea. Dealer oil changes are expensive, do you have a local indy who can do it?

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Actually they're pretty cheap, great value. I have several dealers in my area that will do an oil change for $59-69.

[ComradeNick]

Actually they're pretty cheap, great value. I have several dealers in my area that will do an oil change for $59-69.Yeah I can second that, I think the one here takes like 100 which is much less than what indys do. Just be careful, they take a loss on the oil change so they're strongly motivated to upsell any other problems you might have.

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[Prestovie]

Actually they're pretty cheap, great value. I have several dealers in my area that will do an oil change for $59-69.

Yeah from what I remember my dealer charges around $65, missed the appointment anyway because work went long so guess we'll see next week.
But the past couple days the floor has been dry even with it raining one of the days so hopefully one of the techs will have an insight

[johnrando]

Yeah I can second that, I think the one here takes like 100 which is much less than what indys do. Just be careful, they take a loss on the oil change so they're strongly motivated to upsell any other problems you might have.

Sent from my SM-G973U using TapatalkYou think $100 is a good price? That sounds expensive to me.

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[ComradeNick]

You think $100 is a good price? That sounds expensive to me.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkAlright so that comment made me go digging.

So the filter is like 12 bucks on our car, and oil is 7 quarts at something like 7 or 8 bucks a quart for something like 0w-40. That should be like 60ish bucks, which looks like about right since the FCP euro liqui-moly kit is 58, Mobil might be a little cheaper actually. 40 in labor isn't unreasonable for about a half hour, esp when the stealer charges 300/h for labor normally.

Come to find out my mechanic charged me 12 bucks a quart for 5w-40 motul. Parts ended up being 90 bucks, and another 90 for labor. Granted he did a general inspection but it was stupid shit, only useful thing was checking battery voltage.

This is the same guy that charged me 1k to do the OPG but jesus. The stealer is looking like the affordable option. Another reason for me not to go back.

Next time I'm going to just do the oil change at my work w/ some 0w-40 m1 and a mann filter. It'll still be around 100 bit at least I can go in there and get a good look underneath to see if there's still an oil leak.

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[az3579]

Don't forget that the $58 oil change kit from FCP includes a filter, so you won't have to buy any of those parts again including the oil. Just return the oil stuff and you effectively paid nothing for your oil changes after the initial purchase, not counting shipping of course. After that all you'll have to pay him is labor.

$40 for labor to change oil I guess isn't too crazy, but it is on the higher end of what I've seen (my guy does it for $20 if I supply oil/filter). $12/quart for oil? That's GAS STATION pricing, which is the extreme high end.

[johnrando]

I just have been doing my own for so long I don't know where the prices are... they just sound high. I know it's not a LOT more than DIY when you do the math if you get a good deal, but it certainly isn't cheap. :)

[ComradeNick]

Has anyone used a Schwaben oil extractor or something along those lines to change their oil from the dipstick?

How well does it work?

From what I've been hearing people have concerns about not getting some of the residue from the bottom, but have never tried it themselves.

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[ZHPizza]

Has anyone used a Schwaben oil extractor or something along those lines to change their oil from the dipstick?

How well does it work?

From what I've been hearing people have concerns about not getting some of the residue from the bottom, but have never tried it themselves.

Sent from my SM-G973U using TapatalkYou're right about the people that have those concerns being the ones that have never used an extractor. I have one and it works great. No need to get under the car or even pull it in the garage. You want to change the oil while it's hot and thin, so you don't have to wait on the car to cool down either. Just drive home, pop the hood, shove it down the dipstick tube, pump a couple times to build the vacuum, then start changing the filter. By the time you're halfway through changing the filter, you'll hear the extractor sucking air - she's done! Add new oil and call it a day.

I can't find it anymore, but I got a manual 7.5L version (didn't even want the pneumatic option). Simple and just big enough for an e46 oil change. I love it.

[az3579]

Remind me, how does one empty the extractor? Is there an option to push it back out the tube? That would make refilling the oil containers with oil oil for return to FCP so much easier...

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[ZHPizza]

Remind me, how does one empty the extractor? Is there an option to push it back out the tube? That would make refilling the oil containers with oil oil for return to FCP so much easier...

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkNot that I know of. I just unscrew the tube connection and dump it into another container.

[az3579]

Not that I know of. I just unscrew the tube connection and dump it into another container.

That's fine. Thanks.

[Dual]

Saw a little exhaust talk earlier and hope I can quickly revive that. I have a magniflow muffler but it’s just too quiet and more importantly, I lost my rasp. Adding insult to injury, my exhaust tips have cracks and what seems like burns. So I. Removing the muffler and putting some new tips in.

I was wondering if anyone had a good exhaust tip recommendation or at least good vendors for my to browse. Thanks guys

Reviving this, partly to ask a different question. I have a Vibrant 1148 muffler: the SS tip was finished black and the black coating quickly started failing. Vibrant was NO help. I'd like to either strip off the remaining black coating or cover the twin 3" tips with something else. Ideas?

35318

[ComradeNick]

You're right about the people that have those concerns being the ones that have never used an extractor. I have one and it works great. No need to get under the car or even pull it in the garage. You want to change the oil while it's hot and thin, so you don't have to wait on the car to cool down either. Just drive home, pop the hood, shove it down the dipstick tube, pump a couple times to build the vacuum, then start changing the filter. By the time you're halfway through changing the filter, you'll hear the extractor sucking air - she's done! Add new oil and call it a day.

I can't find it anymore, but I got a manual 7.5L version (didn't even want the pneumatic option). Simple and just big enough for an e46 oil change. I love it.Awesome, I'll definitely being doing my own oil changes from now on, and with the FCP warranty that's one less cost to worry about.

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[Dual]

I haven't been in good enough health to put it to use but I bought a well-reviewed unit inexpensively at West Marine. I believe it was this one: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-changer-6-9-quart--11047123

[WOLFN8TR]

Has anyone used a Schwaben oil extractor or something along those lines to change their oil from the dipstick?

How well does it work?

From what I've been hearing people have concerns about not getting some of the residue from the bottom, but have never tried it themselves.

I have one and it’s awesome! Can’t tell you how nice this is and it makes changing the oil so much easier. This thing saved me when I over filled my wife’s 4Runnner by a quart. Just suck out some oil thru the dipstick tube and was in range. Cleanup is just as easy. Pull the tube out, pump it a few times so it sucks the oil out of the tubes, disconnect the tubes and pour the oil into a drum or in my case plastic 5 gallon tote. If you are worried about oil residue laying in the bottom of the oil pan just do a regular oil change every 3rd oil change or so.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/e0e845f2fc6a6956c60c2168e53d9039.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/f38ee40accd968232b4046f1f6974168.jpg

[WOLFN8TR]

Schwaben Extractors are on Sale!

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190626/66dfc9aed03a880eaf2c0e2aebbf72b8.jpg

[ComradeNick]

I have one and it’s awesome! Can’t tell you how nice this is and it makes changing the oil so much easier. This thing saved me when I over filled my wife’s 4Runnner by a quart. Just suck out some oil thru the dipstick tube and was in range. Cleanup is just as easy. Pull the tube out, pump it a few times so it sucks the oil out of the tubes, disconnect the tubes and pour the oil into a drum or in my case plastic 5 gallon tote. If you are worried about oil residue laying in the bottom of the oil pan just do a regular oil change every 3rd oil change or so.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/e0e845f2fc6a6956c60c2168e53d9039.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/f38ee40accd968232b4046f1f6974168.jpgAm I missing something, the capacity is just under 7quarts wouldn't that mean our cars have more oil than this thing can hold at one time?

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[WOLFN8TR]

Isn’t the capacity of the ZHP 6.5 quarts that’s doing a “Full” drain. You will syphon approx 6 quarts or so.
1 quart equals .95 liters, this is 6.5L.

You can always transfer some of the oil into a container and continue draining the rest. It’s super easy to transfer.

[Yankeefan]

I found a set of Style 68's for sale locally. I've always liked the looks of these wheels. I did a bit of research on the wheel weights vs. the Style 135's, and it looks the Style 68s are about 9.5kg front/9.9kg rear, and the style 135s are about 11.2kg front/11.9kg rear. My question is, does anyone have the experience to say whether or not this weight savings (approximately 3.7lb front and 4.4lb rear) will feel any different with regards to acceleration and/or NVH? Thanks.

[704sw]

I found a set of Style 68's for sale locally. I've always liked the looks of these wheels. I did a bit of research on the wheel weights vs. the Style 135's, and it looks the Style 68s are about 9.5kg front/9.9kg rear, and the style 135s are about 11.2kg front/11.9kg rear. My question is, does anyone have the experience to say whether or not this weight savings (approximately 3.7lb front and 4.4lb rear) will feel any different with regards to acceleration and/or NVH? Thanks.

They’ll certainly ride quieter because they’re 17s. I’ll let someone like Botond with firsthand experience chime in for acceleration feel, but the extra tire weight would narrow the gap a little bit.

[Thatguy_JZ]

I'm running Apex ARC-8 17x8.5 square on my ZHP with 245/40/17's and the the weight savings made a very noticeable improvement in acceleration.

Regarding NVH, my tires on my ZHP wheels were cupped and toast when I bought it. They rode horrible and shook the car >75mph. Now everything is smooth.

[sillieidiot]

I found a set of Style 68's for sale locally. I've always liked the looks of these wheels. I did a bit of research on the wheel weights vs. the Style 135's, and it looks the Style 68s are about 9.5kg front/9.9kg rear, and the style 135s are about 11.2kg front/11.9kg rear. My question is, does anyone have the experience to say whether or not this weight savings (approximately 3.7lb front and 4.4lb rear) will feel any different with regards to acceleration and/or NVH? Thanks.

Yes you will feel a difference in both regards. With the NVH though, it depends on the tires and profile you're planning to run though.

[az3579]

They’ll certainly ride quieter because they’re 17s. I’ll let someone like Botond with firsthand experience chime in for acceleration feel, but the extra tire weight would narrow the gap a little bit.I don't feel much of a difference in acceleration (negligible) when I have the 68's mounted, but the ride is definitely more comfortable and it is definitely easier to mount/dismount wheels since they're not quite as heavy.

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[Yankeefan]

Thanks everyone. The wheels currently have 245/45R17s on them. The seller thinks they are a square set. My research is showing that the non-M’s had staggered wheels but the M’s had a square set. Does that sound right? That doesn’t make sense to me.

[az3579]

Thanks everyone. The wheels currently have 245/45R17s on them. The seller thinks they are a square set. My research is showing that the non-M’s had staggered wheels but the M’s had a square set. Does that sound right? That doesn’t make sense to me.

Nope, M's had staggered sets as well.

[YoitsTmac]

I would double check. My buddy and I are pitting our sets together to make an”daily” set of square 68’s and a “track” set of 68’s by combining are staggered sets. I’ve also come across square sets of 68’s in the wild


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[stephenkirsh]

Style 68s only came on non-m e46s as staggered.

I have apex arc-8 17x8.5 that are 10 pounds lighter per wheel than the style 135s. Very noticeable.

I also have a staggered set of style 68s. Can’t tell much better em the two. I think the 68s are 5 pounds heavier per.

[BMWCurves]

How often do y'all change spark plugs and belts, both by time and mileage?

[Chaplian]

How often do y'all change spark plugs and belts, both by time and mileage?I do 50k miles on plugs, checking every 3-4 years, don't really replace them on age. Belts I check for cracking and splitting. If they're over 80kish/7-8 years I replace them. I'm not sure what BMWs recommendations are, this is just based off of other cars.

FWIW, I have a '95 Impala SS with 28k miles still on the original belts. They look fine, but I don't really drive that car, and if I do, it's not highway. (Car is currently on the back burner until the wagon has a 6 speed.)



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[BMWCurves]

I do 50k miles on plugs, checking every 3-4 years, don't really replace them on age. Belts I check for cracking and splitting. If they're over 80kish/7-8 years I replace them. I'm not sure what BMWs recommendations are, this is just based off of other cars.

FWIW, I have a '95 Impala SS with 28k miles still on the original belts. They look fine, but I don't really drive that car, and if I do, it's not highway. (Car is currently on the back burner until the wagon has a 6 speed.)



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Roger, I have a very conservative schedule written down for belts at 30k miles and plugs at 40-50k. Wasn't sure what other peoples' thoughts were

[az3579]

Roger, I have a very conservative schedule written down for belts at 30k miles and plugs at 40-50k. Wasn't sure what other peoples' thoughts wereThose intervals are way too soon.

Plugs are a 100k item. Belts are age-based, and need to be done when they show visual signs of it or when doing the cooling system, whichever comes first. Whenever I do my cooling system, it's almost always past 80-120k and the belts are fine every time. I replace them "while I'm in there".

Reference BMW's service manual for more information. In my car's 323k miles my experiences have lined up with BMW's intervals for things for the most part (though I halved my oil change intervals from the get-go due to track usage).

https://www.bmwusa.com/explore/bmw-value/bmw-ultimate-service/service-and-warranty-books.html

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[BMWCurves]

Those intervals are way too soon.

Plugs are a 100k item. Belts are age-based, and need to be done when they show visual signs of it or when doing the cooling system, whichever comes first. Whenever I do my cooling system, it's almost always past 80-120k and the belts are fine every time. I replace them "while I'm in there".

Reference BMW's service manual for more information. In my car's 323k miles my experiences have lined up with BMW's intervals for things for the most part (though I halved my oil change intervals from the get-go due to track usage).

https://www.bmwusa.com/explore/bmw-value/bmw-ultimate-service/service-and-warranty-books.html

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Appreciate the info, BP! I assumed the estimates I had were pretty conservative.

[stephenkirsh]

Roger, I have a very conservative schedule written down for belts at 30k miles and plugs at 40-50k. Wasn't sure what other peoples' thoughts were

Belts at 30k seems nuts. All 3 of my cars go way way way longer than that.

Belts are so easy to check if they’re starting to age, anyway.

[704sw]

What's your preference: clear or amber reflector?

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48511296981_b38cdc8482_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gUM5u6)

[Dual]

Amber fer sure. Don't suppose you have an easy option for body color?

[az3579]

Clear to match turn signals.

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[704sw]

Amber fer sure. Don't suppose you have an easy option for body color?

I’d have to paint them myself, which isn’t off the table. Bimmian and whoever else sell the painted reflectors only offer them in standard colors.


Clear to match turn signals.

The clear does match the corners and I like that aspect a lot, but it’s so much brighter it kinda’ stands out more. It’s just a quick Photoshop job but I think it’s a pretty accurate preview.

[BMWCurves]

I'm mixed. Amber if the tails and turn signal were Amber too since amber goes well with Estoril. But since the turn signal is clear, I'd say clear or color matched.

[704sw]

I'm mixed. Amber if the tails and turn signal were Amber too since amber goes well with Estoril. But since the turn signal is clear, I'd say clear or color matched.

I just mocked up a color matched version in Adobe, intentionally trying to make it *not* perfect (because I know it won’t be in real life) and I still love it. Frig...

[Chaplian]

I just mocked up a color matched version in Adobe, intentionally trying to make it *not* perfect (because I know it won’t be in real life) and I still love it. Frig...I think color match is the only way to go, honestly. I like the Amber, but it doesn't go with the clear corner lights.

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[BMWCurves]

I just mocked up a color matched version in Adobe, intentionally trying to make it *not* perfect (because I know it won’t be in real life) and I still love it. Frig...

I'm going to be honest, I love my color matched ones.

[704sw]

I think color match is the only way to go, honestly. I like the Amber, but it doesn't go with the clear corner lights.

I think you're right...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48514601532_0142114eff_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gV51P7)


I'm going to be honest, I love my color matched ones.

Damn peer pressure.

[BMWCurves]

Kind of a weird thought, but how would they look black, given the black kidney grilles, lower mesh grilles, black headlight housing, and black foglight housing?

[holyc0w]

What about pink? Pink is a great color.

[RUS_ZHP]

I think you're right...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48514601532_0142114eff_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gV51P7)



Damn peer pressure.Color matching is the best and looks rad

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[az3579]

Well I always thought color matched was the only option, but since you only said 'amber or clear' I figured you didn't want that.
Of course color matched > all else. :)

[san]

Color match > clear > amber


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[704sw]

Well I always thought color matched was the only option, but since you only said 'amber or clear' I figured you didn't want that.
Of course color matched > all else. :)

I was trying to take the easy route lol.

Oh well, here I go making projects again!

[John in VA]

I purchased the painted ones from Bimmian in silver gray = great color match. IND also has them:https://ind-distribution.com/products/ind-e46-m3-painted-front-reflector-set

[johnrando]

Color matched is my vote.

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[az3579]

I purchased the painted ones from Bimmian in silver gray = great color match. IND also has them:https://ind-distribution.com/products/ind-e46-m3-painted-front-reflector-set


He's going to have to paint it himself anyway since Estoril is not a color available on those sites.

[704sw]

He's going to have to paint it himself anyway since Estoril is not a color available on those sites.

I’d probably pay the $75 from Bimmian if Estoril was actually an option, but $110 from IND is more than I’d be willing to spend.

My brother asked me to order some touchup paint for his car anyway, so I’ll just add a rattle can of EB to the order and call it a day.

[ComradeNick]

Anyone know where I can buy some interior paint for the plastic pieces for a black interior? I was hoping BMW still sold some of the rubberized coating but I haven't found anything other than beige so far.

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[John in VA]

Anyone know where I can buy some interior paint for the plastic pieces for a black interior? I was hoping BMW still sold some of the rubberized coating but I haven't found anything other than beige so far.
SEM Color Coat Landau Black is a good match. It's flexible, but I wouldn't consider it "soft-touch" like the factory finish.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-aerosols/15013

[SoCalZman]

Anyone know where I can buy some interior paint for the plastic pieces for a black interior? I was hoping BMW still sold some of the rubberized coating but I haven't found anything other than beige so far.

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Not sure if this is helpful but a few years ago I decided to buy a lot of new interior pieces (like the center console, etc) to replace my old scratched ones and I found them to be a lot cheaper than I was expecting. Replacing them was pretty easy too.

[Yankeefan]

On a similar note, for those of you that have painted your lower grille, what kind of paint did you use? Just inexpensive spray paint?
And has anyone had luck with painting the black sedan bumper trim? I've used blast plastic restorer and the like many times, but I'd love to find something that lasts longer. Mine are super faded against the red.

[704sw]

On a similar note, for those of you that have painted your lower grille, what kind of paint did you use? Just inexpensive spray paint?
And has anyone had luck with painting the black sedan bumper trim? I've used blast plastic restorer and the like many times, but I'd love to find something that lasts longer. Mine are super faded against the red.

I used PlastiDip on the lower grill and it’s held up pretty well. Regular spray paint will chip and flake, but PlastiDip doesn’t. If it gets a nick and starts peeling just spray over it and it’ll seal itself back up. Just be gentle when you clean it the first few months but it’ll get pretty hard over time.

For the black trim I like Cquartz Dlux.

[fredo]

I used Forever Black on the trim from my first e46. It lasted 2 years easily. I sold the car at that point. I applied only once.

[Dr Dynamite]

Hi guys, I'm having some trouble here and I'm hoping I can get some numbers from you guys. Long story short, my differential locked up 3 months ago, the mechanic has had my car for nearly 3 months now. So 6 differentials later I still dont think its correct. While I'm in 6th gear doing 80 mph my rpms are at 3k rpm or just a bit passed that. Does that sound right to you guys?
According to bokchoys website it should be at 2804 rpms.

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[e46zhpm3]

Installed spacers. 15mm upfront and back. 4 OEM csl 19" rims :) brought a smile to my face. Next step clay bar and wax https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/01b6323177ae5162fab5618a1cb95e8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/5f38cc01eafbd0b7516ab6cd126aae01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/2654306fe7ba2cedbba94aeb27ce5756.jpg

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[e46zhpm3]

Installed spacers. 15mm upfront and back. 4 OEM csl 19" rims :) brought a smile to my face. Next step clay bar and wax https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/01b6323177ae5162fab5618a1cb95e8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/5f38cc01eafbd0b7516ab6cd126aae01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190817/2654306fe7ba2cedbba94aeb27ce5756.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950W using TapatalkWhoops posted in the wrong discussion


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[johnrando]

On a similar note, for those of you that have painted your lower grille, what kind of paint did you use? Just inexpensive spray paint?
And has anyone had luck with painting the black sedan bumper trim? I've used blast plastic restorer and the like many times, but I'd love to find something that lasts longer. Mine are super faded against the red.Re lower grill, regular gloss black spray paint has worked well on mine and has held up well over the years.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

35561

Hey everybody, trying to get back in the swing of things here and I have a question... I’m ordering BC coilovers next week but I wanna get all reinforcements out of the way

So far I have the strut & rear shock plates, still need to order the paper gasket that goes above the RSM’s from the picture above... but if I’m buying new coilovers, Do I need to buy Rear Shock Mounts as well? Hoping to go for Bimmerworlds since there lifetime warrantied and serviceable

Just want to be as preventative and as thorough as possible.

I have a full suspension overhaul on the way, Lemforder ZHP Control Arms, Lemforder End Links, OE Z4M Control Arm Bushings, Tie Rods+Boots.

I was hoping to swing some money for SwayBarbarians from UUC but its a lot of money to spend all at once. I need to do RTABS as well, any suggestions there please let me know.


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[BADCLOWN]

The cap diameter on the BBS CH wheels is 70mm correct? I think this is the model number no? BBS bbs09.24.467 Center Cap


Lost a carbon fiber center cap and need to find a replacement

[joeybananaz18]

Hi guys. I finishing up my two tone door cards and just last week my driver rear window regulator went. I figure it would be a good time for it since i was removing the door card anyway. While I'm in there I'm planning on replacing the vapor barrier. But would you guys replace all the vapor barriers in the other doors or just leave them alone? Also is there anything else i should consider doing while im in there?

[DeathTrap]

Hi guys. I finishing up my two tone door cards and just last week my driver rear window regulator went. I figure it would be a good time for it since i was removing the door card anyway. While I'm in there I'm planning on replacing the vapor barrier. But would you guys replace all the vapor barriers in the other doors or just leave them alone? Also is there anything else i should consider doing while im in there?If I did it again, I would replace the barrier. It's not worth the pond in the carpet when it rains. The carpet is exceptionally absorbent BTW.

I had some left over sound deadening that I used on the doors. Now they feel solid like an E38...well maybe not quite but you get the picture.

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[joeybananaz18]

If I did it again, I would replace the barrier. It's not worth the pond in the carpet when it rains. The carpet is exceptionally absorbent BTW.

I had some left over sound deadening that I used on the doors. Now they feel solid like an E38...well maybe not quite but you get the picture.

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so you're saying change them when the panels are off, even though im not doing the regulators on those doors, correct? just don't want to spend $120 if idont have to.

[DeathTrap]

so you're saying change them when the panels are off, even though im not doing the regulators on those doors, correct? just don't want to spend $120 if idont have to.Wait, that's how much those things cost? Be very careful taking the old one off. Maybe even get some fresh butyl rope. I think that was my main issue anyway, the barrier didn't fully re-seal after removal.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Wait, that's how much those things cost? Be very careful taking the old one off. Maybe even get some fresh butyl rope. I think that was my main issue anyway, the barrier didn't fully re-seal after removal.

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Butyl tape on eBay before doing a job on this area, they sell it in massive rolls and though it’s expensive it will reseal the area well. My brother bought an E90 sedan that had leaks on everything including the front windshield. A massive roll of this worked well and still had plenty left over


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[joeybananaz18]

Wait, that's how much those things cost? Be very careful taking the old one off. Maybe even get some fresh butyl rope. I think that was my main issue anyway, the barrier didn't fully re-seal after removal.

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no im sorry for the mix up. i think they're between 40-50 bux. im doing a left rear regulator so im definitely doing a new vapor barrier on that door. what im asking is should i do the other 3 when i swap in my new door cards. im leaning towards no unless the consensus is otherwise.

and a big yes to the butyl tape!

[ZHP_Brandon]

no im sorry for the mix up. i think they're between 40-50 bux. im doing a left rear regulator so im definitely doing a new vapor barrier on that door. what im asking is should i do the other 3 when i swap in my new door cards. im leaning towards no unless the consensus is otherwise.

and a big yes to the butyl tape!

If the rear left regulator is being replaced then that will only require new butyl tape & not a full vapor barrier replacement (not always the case) unless there’s a tear in the current barrier

For good measure on the other 3 doors you can certainly add/replace the butyl tape on the vapor barriers but word of caution: don’t do it unless you notice water on the carpet, the vapor barriers are flimsy and tear with any kind of resistance from the opposite direction. Ask me how I know [emoji2359][emoji2359][emoji2359] lol


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[DeathTrap]

Yep, the barrier is one of those things where if it's working, leave it alone.

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[racer2086]

No point in replacing the vapor barrier if it isn't torn. Just wasting time and money at that point.

It's a good idea to have extra butyl on hand, but I find that if you separate the vapor barrier by cutting the butyl with a knife as you peel, you can clean the butyl and "reactivate" it with some 3M adhesive cleaner. It actually makes the stuff incredibly sticky and seals great.

I got my car with 2 leaking vapor barriers, which made the car smell like a swamp. The 3M stuff got those stuck on good: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?22179-Ed-s-Mystic-ZHP-Project-and-Maintenance-Log&p=580467#post580467

With the number of times I've replaced window regulators and door lock actuators in my E38 and both front regulators in the ZHP, I've never had a leak using that stuff.

[joeybananaz18]

If the rear left regulator is being replaced then that will only require new butyl tape & not a full vapor barrier replacement (not always the case) unless there’s a tear in the current barrier

For good measure on the other 3 doors you can certainly add/replace the butyl tape on the vapor barriers but word of caution: don’t do it unless you notice water on the carpet, the vapor barriers are flimsy and tear with any kind of resistance from the opposite direction. Ask me how I know [emoji2359][emoji2359][emoji2359] lol


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That reminds me. At the beginning of the year I found a small puddle in the front passenger footwell. I’ll definitely add the butyl tape if I see any torn areas but does the logic process of “well if I found water in the front passenger footwell, that I should look for a problem on that door” work here or can each barrier affect all the footwells (feetwells? Lol)?


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[holyc0w]

That reminds me. At the beginning of the year I found a small puddle in the front passenger footwell. I’ll definitely add the butyl tape if I see any torn areas but does the logic process of “well if I found water in the front passenger footwell, that I should look for a problem on that door” work here or can each barrier affect all the footwells (feetwells? Lol)?


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I think it's specific to that footwell. I also have some moisture on my passenger side mat.

[ZHP_Brandon]

That reminds me. At the beginning of the year I found a small puddle in the front passenger footwell. I’ll definitely add the butyl tape if I see any torn areas but does the logic process of “well if I found water in the front passenger footwell, that I should look for a problem on that door” work here or can each barrier affect all the footwells (feetwells? Lol)?


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Nope that’s actually not the footwell if the front passenger carpet/all weather mat is wet after the rain. That’s the gutter running from the sunroof to the drain inside of the A-pillar, yours may or may not have gotten detached/clogged up causing water to pool up.

Best course of action on that side is to remove the a pillar (good luck I stripped my passenger side torx heads this summer), door gasket (what appears to be suede in appearance), the sun visor, vanity light, “oh sheet” handle, and all the plastics and try to get a look inside at the rain gutter to see if it’s come off or not. I couldn’t get my a-pillar off so I just bent the headliner out of the way to reattach the rubber grommet onto the metal gutter. All good as new and no more mildewy smell inside

I have a video on my phone of what you should be looking for in terms of the grommet, the grommet is the little black piece in the video and that goes onto what appears to be a metal nipple in there


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[ZHP_Brandon]

If I wanted to buy a used 4.0 LCM, but it doesn’t come with Automatic headlights (automatically turn on)

All I would have to do is code it to match my car and pick the proper options and then swap my faceplate correct?


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[holyc0w]

Nope that’s actually not the footwell if the front passenger carpet/all weather mat is wet after the rain. That’s the gutter running from the sunroof to the drain inside of the A-pillar, yours may or may not have gotten detached/clogged up causing water to pool up.

Thanks for the correction. Will have to do this at some point. Right now it's not too bad.


If I wanted to buy a used 4.0 LCM, but it doesn’t come with Automatic headlights (automatically turn on)

All I would have to do is code it to match my car and pick the proper options and then swap my faceplate correct?


I believe so, with xenons and auto-leveling features being the ones to match. What's the part number?

[ZHP_Brandon]

Thanks for the correction. Will have to do this at some point. Right now it's not too bad.


No problem! Took me ages to figure out what was causing this interior water leak but finally things are normal, be warned though my hand was cut up real bad and I had to go in from the sunroof. Removed the sunroof gasket from the headliner & bent my way into it.



I believe so, with xenons and auto-leveling features being the ones to match. What's the part number?

Here’s a picture from the eBay listing but besides the sketchy water on the LCM [emoji2955][emoji2955][emoji2955]... it totally says “S.W: 1.3”

Here’s the listing

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F23 3285141809

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190827/ce6978c6c7422ac1b97ed9777734cb3b.jpg


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[holyc0w]

Here’s a picture from the eBay listing but besides the sketchy water on the LCM [emoji2955][emoji2955][emoji2955]... it totally says “S.W: 1.3”


Totally sketchy - the title and description does not match up with the pictures. I would ask them for clarification.

[az3579]

SW 1.3 is also ancient. That looks like a picture of the wrong item. You may want to clarify with the seller whether that's the pictured item. If it is, I'd pass, due to the water and the label that doesn't match what the seller is claiming.

[JPMo]

Anyone have any thoughts as to why one of my license plate lights isn't working? I put in LED bulbs awhile back which worked fine. After I noticed one out, I bought replacements thinking it was a blown bulb but that didn't resolve the issue? It didn't look terribly corroded from what I remember but I could use some help?

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[holyc0w]

The LED lights are finicky with the placement/contact. I'm not sure why. They have to be just right and then after driving for a bit, it moves out of that narrow "working zone". I think it's mainly one side. Curiously, which side is out?

[JPMo]

The LED lights are finicky with the placement/contact. I'm not sure why. They have to be just right and then after driving for a bit, it moves out of that narrow "working zone". I think it's mainly one side. Curiously, which side is out?Interesting. It's the driver side I believe

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[holyc0w]

Interesting. It's the driver side I believe

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Passenger side for me. I just went to check it out. I pressed it in a bit and it lit up again. Originally my brother opened it up and played around with the bulb inside the casing.

[JPMo]

Passenger side for me. I just went to check it out. I pressed it in a bit and it lit up again. Originally my brother opened it up and played around with the bulb inside the casing.

welp, funny enough I just went outside to check it out and something clicked. I remembered reading something about flipping the bulb around if it does not work one way. So I tried that and BOOM, light!! Happily I realized that the new bulbs I ordered had a great cool blue tone unlike the yellower first pair I bought. I went to swap in the new bulb on the passenger side and realized they sent me the wrong bulb... Its literally always something with these cars! Doesnt matter how mundane

[JPMo]

I have another question though. Who's car is this and how can I get that stance. Its perfect! Low but not slammed and fills the wheel wells nicely.

35586

[az3579]

I have another question though. Who's car is this and how can I get that stance. Its perfect! Low but not slammed and fills the wheel wells nicely.

35586I can probably answer that as my stance is practically identical and have the same wheels. [emoji4]

Coilovers will get you the ride height and the BBS CH wheels have an offset that get you that perfect wheel fitment look without the use of spacers.

https://i.imgur.com/RzSY1cB.jpg

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[JPMo]

I can probably answer that as my stance is practically identical and have the same wheels. [emoji4]

Coilovers will get you the ride height and the BBS CH wheels have an offset that get you that perfect wheel fitment look without the use of spacers.

https://i.imgur.com/RzSY1cB.jpg

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Thank you, I feel like I should have known that but that picture really just spoke to me. I really need a suspension refresh but I was thinking Bilstein B8s with H&R sports -_- this is a hard decision

[ZHP_Brandon]

Thank you, I feel like I should have known that but that picture really just spoke to me. I really need a suspension refresh but I was thinking Bilstein B8s with H&R sports -_- this is a hard decision

I’m going for BC Coils with M3 spring rates myself on my car but I’m really undecided... I’m not sure if I want a stiffer ride afterall, I feel like despite my suspension being super high mileage the ride is so normal but it just doesn’t absorb the road well anymore.

When comparing the cost of Bilsteins+H&R or Tein Springs it’s hard to not consider coils cause for close to the same price you can at least have adjustable height & dampening


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[JPMo]

That's a fair point. My suspension is completely shot. It's pretty harsh and doesn't absorb road imperfections well at all. So if that's what a harsh suspension feels like, I guess I can handle it if it's more stable. Not sure if I like much harsher than what it is now

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[NYRhockey]

Anyone know the part # for the rear "ashtray" cubbie behind the center armrest and the fog lights trim? missing both sides. Thx.

[704sw]

Anyone know the part # for the rear "ashtray" cubbie behind the center armrest and the fog lights trim? missing both sides. Thx.

Fog light trims:
Left 51117893067
Right 51117893068

The rear ashtray is color-dependent:
Black 51168268340 (replace the last number with a 1 for grey or a 2 for beige).

[NYRhockey]

Fog light trims:
Left 51117893067
Right 51117893068

The rear ashtray is color-dependent:
Black 51168268340 (replace the last number with a 1 for grey or a 2 for beige).

sweet. thanks!

[JKO_ZHP]

Is there any member here who has an M235i? How does it compare with the ZHP? I've already done some digging online in the other forums, and only found one comp.

After 7 years and 206k miles later (131k added by me) with the ZHP, I've been looking at the 2016 MY's...not 2017+ M240i, just last MY's with the N55.

[YoitsTmac]

Is there any member here who has an M235i? How does it compare with the ZHP? I've already done some digging online in the other forums, and only found one comp.

After 7 years and 206k miles later (131k added by me) with the ZHP, I've been looking at the 2016 MY's...not 2017+ M240i, just last MY's with the N55.

I’ve spent an extended amount of driving time in one. It totally depends on what you’re looking for. iDrive is really nice and the seats are really comfortable compared to my M3 seats. The power will never feel as instant being a turbo but you get an ample amount of power. Through the corners the car could hold its own but didn’t feel as confident as my E46. If I had 50k. Unlike the 4 series, the 2 series is very close to size compared to E46. In the 4 series, which we now have apart of our family, you can feel that additional 8 inches or so in width every time we take it out.

I also drove the M2 competition in Monterey and I think I’ll go against the grain and say that car has an amazing engine and great tech, but driving right after the M4 competition, you could feel how much BMW held back on M tech. Most notable the M2 also shared that “lack of confidence” in the corners. I pushed the M2 way harder than I pushed the M235i, but it felt really unsettled with bumps through a corner.

Finally, depending on the year M235i, the steering leaves a lot to be desired. Granted the comparison is E46, but we complain almost all the time in our 4 series that it’s hard to tell how hard your pushing the car - and it inspires virtually no confidence as a byproduct. My mom hates taking the 4 series through a corner quickly because it really makes her feel uncomfortable. It’s her first BMW and she definitely was expecting something closer to my E46. All I will say is I felt something similar with the M235i, but not to that intensity. I highly suggest you find a spec you like at a dealer and take it for a test drive. We test drive hard and if you’re in the market, it pays for you to as well.

[YoitsTmac]

Is there a way to visually tell if a LCM supports auto leveling by the exterior, or do you always need a vin?

[papa_g]

So I went under the car to investigate a periodic rubbing sound which increases in frequency with wheel speed, as well as a loud click sound whenever I brake or change gears between reverse and drive. From the things I’ve read, it sounded like it might be poorly positioned brake pads, so I examined them, but they look fine. Then I decided to look under the rear suspension and found this. Pretty much the same on the other side. Do I need to replace my diff? I am at 100k miles.
35657


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[DeathTrap]

Is it the diff or the axles making the noise?

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[papa_g]

Is it the diff or the axles making the noise?

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I can’t tell. I took it to an alignment shop a while back and they were not able to replicate the sound. My gut tells me it’s from the axle or wheel though.


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[az3579]

Clicking sounds like it would be an axle. I've heard that clicking axles usually means they're going to fail.

[az3579]

Clicking sounds like it would be an axle. I've heard that clicking axles usually means they're going to fail.

I would definitely check everything though; I had a clicking once that just turned out to be a brake lining sensor loose and hitting the wheel as it rotated. lol

[papa_g]

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Does anybody have family/friends in London? Lmao
Trying to get a NLA part shipped out to the US, but the seller refuses to handle the international shipping because he’s out of the country. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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[stephenkirsh]

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?


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Special tools aren’t required for engine mounts. I think you best access it from below

[DeathTrap]

Does anybody have family/friends in London? Lmao
Trying to get a NLA part shipped out to the US, but the seller refuses to handle the international shipping because he’s out of the country. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkTell him to make the transaction on eBay and use the Global Shipping program. He can use his domestic carrier and eBay will handle the international portion.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Tell him to make the transaction on eBay and use the Global Shipping program. He can use his domestic carrier and eBay will handle the international portion.

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Awesome! I’ll see if he bites lol


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[704sw]

Actually I think I figured out what the click what. I was not able to fully torque down my passenger side engine mount when I replaced them. I’m able to get an extension and swivel socket into the limited space between the block and the engine compartment, but because of the angle created, I don’t get enough torque, and can’t turn the nut on the engine mount anymore. Has anyone come across this, and has any suggestions? Maybe I need to go out and get a special tool?

For the top nut? I ran into similar issues. What I did was get under the car, reach up and seat the socket on the nut. Then assembled my u-joint and extensions, attached them to the socked and fished them up between the strut tower and block, then I got out from under the car and attached the ratchet to the extensions from above. Sounds kinda silly but it worked perfectly.

[papa_g]

For the top nut? I ran into similar issues. What I did was get under the car, reach up and seat the socket on the nut. Then assembled my u-joint and extensions, attached them to the socked and fished them up between the strut tower and block, then I got out from under the car and attached the ratchet to the extensions from above. Sounds kinda silly but it worked perfectly.

That’s what I did except I am able to get my socket, ujoint and extensions onto the nut from the top. I was able to tighten the nut down this way up to a point, now the torque required to tighten it further exceeds what my tower of extensions can handle and everything falls apart (imagine all the tools raining from the bottom of the engine bay).
I’m thinking maybe my ujoint is too rigid or maybe I need to try a flex extension.
Or maybe I can just ask a shop to do it next time I take my car there for what ever reason.


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[JPMo]

I'm having the hardest time finding a set of decently used Style 135s. I've been looking for a good month or 2 to replace the passenger side front and rear wheels. What are the best options for finding something like that? Ebay? online salvage yards?

[John in VA]

I'm having the hardest time finding a set of decently used Style 135s. I've been looking for a good month or 2 to replace the passenger side front and rear wheels. What are the best options for finding something like that? Ebay? online salvage yards?
Have you checked with Wheel Collision Center in PA?
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/H59432-59432XXSI-320I-323I-325I-330I.htm
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/H59433-59433XXSI-320I-323I-325I-330I.htm

[JPMo]

Have you checked with Wheel Collision Center in PA?
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/H59432-59432XXSI-320I-323I-325I-330I.htm
http://www.wheelcollision.com/store/H59433-59433XXSI-320I-323I-325I-330I.htm

Thank you, I've never heard of them. Looks like they sell refurbished wheels? Do you have any experience with them? I was trying to avoid refurbished wheels because I didn't want to end up with something shoddy that would start peeling or looking terrible after a couple months.

[Yass_ZHP]

Hey guys, Im looking into LED bulbs, have any of you done the conversion? My car came with halogen set up. TIA!

[stephenkirsh]

Hey guys, Im looking into LED bulbs, have any of you done the conversion? My car came with halogen set up. TIA!

To actual LEDs or to xenon?

[Yass_ZHP]

To actual LEDs or to xenon?

Yep, to actual LEDs, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKKJ9M4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A20DLZVH04R37U&th=1

[John in VA]

Looks like they sell refurbished wheels? Do you have any experience with them? I was trying to avoid refurbished wheels because I didn't want to end up with something shoddy that would start peeling or looking terrible after a couple months.
I've used them twice. On one occasion they refinished my wheels; other time I bought their wheels & then sent mine back for core exchange. Great work / no problems. You probably have a shop down your way that offers a similar service. http://www.princewheelservices.com/ is who the E39 M5 guys trust to redo the factory hypersilver finish on their wheels.

[704sw]

Yep, to actual LEDs, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKKJ9M4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A20DLZVH04R37U&th=1

You definitely don’t want to be putting those, or anything other than halogen bulbs, in halogen reflector housings. Also 6000k will be quite fatiguing on your eyes.

Don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but that’s a quick way to be called lots of unpleasant names by those with whom you share the road.

[Yass_ZHP]

You definitely don’t want to be putting those, or anything other than halogen bulbs, in halogen reflector housings. Also 6000k will be quite fatiguing on your eyes.

Don’t mean to be a Negative Nancy, but that’s a quick way to be called lots of unpleasant names by those with whom you share the road.

Not at all!! Thanks for the comments, I already have a projector retrofit headlight from Umnitza, but kept the halogen setup. Unfortunately, Im now hating my low beams specifically and Im looking for an upgrade, dont wanna go to HIDs.

[ComradeNick]

Not at all!! Thanks for the comments, I already have a projector retrofit headlight from Umnitza, but kept the halogen setup. Unfortunately, Im now hating my low beams specifically and Im looking for an upgrade, dont wanna go to HIDs.Why wouldn't you want HIDs? In terms of visual light output they should be the same.

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[az3579]

Why wouldn't you want HIDs? In terms of visual light output they should be the same.

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I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?

[ComradeNick]

I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?Yeah that's what I meant, i thought he was trying to add LEDs into the halogen housing.

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[Yass_ZHP]

I think he means he doesn't want HIDs in the halogen housing, which is a smart move. An HID kit inside a halogen housing is a horrible idea.

Yass, why not install the Umnitza lights? That is THE upgrade. I'm assuming those headlights have proper Xenon projectors?
Yeah thats probably the way Im going, but found this LED conversion kit interesting.. :D

[az3579]

Yeah thats probably the way Im going, but found this LED conversion kit interesting.. :D

Please don't put LEDs in your halogen housings. They will blind the crap out of people and your light output is probably going to be terrible anyway.
Halogen housings are designed to only work properly with halogen bulbs. Lighting is a VERY precise science.

[papa_g]

In regards to halogen fog lights, is it practical to put white halogens in to match the white Xenons of the headlights? (Do white halogens even exist lol)


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[ZHPizza]

In regards to halogen fog lights, is it practical to put white halogens in to match the white Xenons of the headlights? (Do white halogens even exist lol)


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah, they make blue-tinted halogen bulbs that will match better. The TRS LED fog lights match well enough and actually provide some helpful output, but ya know...they cost a few more dollars...

[papa_g]

Yeah, they make blue-tinted halogen bulbs that will match better. The TRS LED fog lights match well enough and actually provide some helpful output, but ya know...they cost a few more dollars...

Thanks. Yeah I also saw there was a group buy for miramoto led projector fog lights (or were they xenons...) which looked pretty noice


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[Joerdan23TN]

Can anyone help my identify this bar?
Note that it does have a pivot point to on the right (drivers side), it’s also configured for the battery jump post.

https://i.ibb.co/nsN3W6Z/712-E239-C-BA06-4893-AFBD-598-C837-F5228.jpg (https://ibb.co/1ftsS7h)

[ZHPizza]

Can anyone help my identify this bar?
Note that it does have a pivot point to on the right (drivers side), it’s also configured for the battery jump post.

https://i.ibb.co/nsN3W6Z/712-E239-C-BA06-4893-AFBD-598-C837-F5228.jpg (https://ibb.co/1ftsS7h)https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F17 3204698635

[Joerdan23TN]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F17 3204698635

Thanks for the info! I have been trying to track that down for a while.

It seems like a very good, well designed bar, but I have been considering replacing it and now that I know it is a generic off brand, I probably will.

[BADCLOWN]

That dude LOVES to slather his engine bay in engine dress up. Holy shit

[ZHP_Brandon]

That dude LOVES to slather his engine bay in engine dress up. Holy shit

Lmao [emoji23] I literally LOL’d, looks like buttaaaaa


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[papa_g]

That dude LOVES to slather his engine bay in engine dress up. Holy shit

dude needs to wipe.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody know how I can get some ZHPMafia stickers? If not I’ll be making some of my own, just tempted to buy before DIY’ing it lol


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[fredo]

Check post 188 here.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?599-The-Official-ZHP-MAFIA-Sticker-Thread

[Joerdan23TN]

That dude LOVES to slather his engine bay in engine dress up. Holy shit

Lol, Picture was taken while waiting the 20 mins after applying until wipe down, per the directions. Trust it looks much less shinny now.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Does anybody know the wiring diagram for the power rear sunshade to the button panel?

From what I understand it should be plug and play as long as I have the proper center console button switch, but do I have to tap into the fuse box at all? Or do I just run the white+yellow wire from the sunshade to the button panel & insert the two wires into the proper pinouts behind the switch panel wiring loom?

A little bit of a wiring noob but I’m going to retrofit this & PDC (Maybe) lol


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[Prestovie]

Any chance there’s a way to replace the light bulb clips for the fog lights? Not talking about the pesky trim piece, but due to just giving up on those my wiring and end clip found there way to drag on the road beneath my car and got eaten up pretty bad.
While I’m on the topic, are there any reliable trim pieces out there for fogs? Been through 3 from ECS

[sillieidiot]

Any chance there’s a way to replace the light bulb clips for the fog lights? Not talking about the pesky trim piece, but due to just giving up on those my wiring and end clip found there way to drag on the road beneath my car and got eaten up pretty bad.
While I’m on the topic, are there any reliable trim pieces out there for fogs? Been through 3 from ECS

Are you talking about the connectors themselves? If so, then yeah you can buy the connectors and some wiring to replace them from BMW. It'll requiring you to solder/crimp the connections though. You can also just buy an aftermarket 9006 connector as well if you wanted to.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody know if Power folding M3 mirror motors are interchangeable between the M5 & sedan?

Want to do the power fold mod on my sedan mirrors


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[704sw]

Anybody know if Power folding M3 mirror motors are interchangeable between the M5 & sedan?

Want to do the power fold mod on my sedan mirrors


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@nextelbuddy knows the answer I believe

[nextelbuddy]

Does anybody know the wiring diagram for the power rear sunshade to the button panel?

From what I understand it should be plug and play as long as I have the proper center console button switch, but do I have to tap into the fuse box at all? Or do I just run the white+yellow wire from the sunshade to the button panel & insert the two wires into the proper pinouts behind the switch panel wiring loom?

A little bit of a wiring noob but I’m going to retrofit this & PDC (Maybe) lol


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You just run both wires to the 2 pin s in the switch panel. There are diy posts for this on e46fanatics. #search [emoji23]

It's just a positive and negative wire..the switch panel just changed the polarity and handles all the power and fuseable link portion. That's what makes that switch panel expensive it has extra capacitors to handle the load and amperage from the sunshade motor.

Doesn't matter which wire goes where.. the only difference it makes is when the switch center logs errors for the sunshade. If you get the polarity reversed then it means at worse the switch panel will think it's up when it's down and vice versa but only for error logging when it jams.


@nextelbuddy knows the answer I believe

M3 and m5 share same power fold motor and foot. Non m folding motors are the same except for the mounting foot and the bottom cap that the food attached too so they are not the same because of that small difference and no one sells the power fold motor bottom cap separately for M mirror motors. You can only find the non M caps in the repair kits on eBay and Amazon..

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[Prestovie]

Are you talking about the connectors themselves? If so, then yeah you can buy the connectors and some wiring to replace them from BMW. It'll requiring you to solder/crimp the connections though. You can also just buy an aftermarket 9006 connector as well if you wanted to.

Oh right on, thanks so much!

[DeathTrap]

Does the E85/E83 diff bolt into our ZHPs? Looking for a 3.64 diff for a good (read: cheap) price. I found an auto ZHP diff for $250 but I know I can do better.

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[ZHP_Brandon]

You just run both wires to the 2 pin s in the switch panel. There are diy posts for this on e46fanatics. #search [emoji23]

It's just a positive and negative wire..the switch panel just changed the polarity and handles all the power and fuseable link portion. That's what makes that switch panel expensive it has extra capacitors to handle the load and amperage from the sunshade motor.

Doesn't matter which wire goes where.. the only difference it makes is when the switch center logs errors for the sunshade. If you get the polarity reversed then it means at worse the switch panel will think it's up when it's down and vice versa but only for error logging when it jams.



M3 and m5 share same power fold motor and foot. Non m folding motors are the same except for the mounting foot and the bottom cap that the food attached too so they are not the same because of that small difference and no one sells the power fold motor bottom cap separately for M mirror motors. You can only find the non M caps in the repair kits on eBay and Amazon..

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Thanks so much shawn! A lot of valuable information here lol & I did try looking on Bimmerforums/E46F, all the photos are dead linked now the info is there but pics always help.

Just ordered the button panel for really cheap from TMS for the sunshade.

So I’m better off using M3/m5 mirrors since it’s plug and play no? That’s one mod that I really wanna do lol love the way it looks with the M3 mirrors over non-m sedan folding mirrors.


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[RUS_ZHP]

I am looking for advice and members opinion on interior. I have a dilemma and not sure, if I should swap interior on my touring.
My current set up is following: black leather with front M3 seats that are heated and have lumbar.
Swap: peanut butter (or whatever it is properly called) interior with front sports seats that are heating and have lumbar.
I do not like boring black leather. But having M3 front seats is great. The trade-off for me will be more interesting interior color, I know it is not M3 cinnamon, and regular sport seats.
Car color is Japan red.
Please let me know which way would you go and why.
Thanks in advance.

[fredo]

My vote goes for natural brown. I believe it's a good combo with red.

[az3579]

I am looking for advice and members opinion on interior. I have a dilemma and not sure, if I should swap interior on my touring.
My current set up is following: black leather with front M3 seats that are heated and have lumbar.
Swap: peanut butter (or whatever it is properly called) interior with front sports seats that are heating and have lumbar.
I do not like boring black leather. But having M3 front seats is great. The trade-off for me will be more interesting interior color, I know it is not M3 cinnamon, and regular sport seats.
Car color is Japan red.
Please let me know which way would you go and why.
Thanks in advance.


You already know what I'm going to say. Both my cars have the same interior color, Natural Brown.
Personally I feel M3 seats are nice, but I'd take an interesting color over the M3 seats. The stock sport seats are plenty comfortable and it's not like you drive the touring on the track (unless I'm mistaken), so you shouldn't need the minimal extra bolstering the M3 seats provide.

[BMWCurves]

You already know what I'm going to say. Both my cars have the same interior color, Natural Brown.
Personally I feel M3 seats are nice, but I'd take an interesting color over the M3 seats. The stock sport seats are plenty comfortable and it's not like you drive the touring on the track (unless I'm mistaken), so you shouldn't need the minimal extra bolstering the M3 seats provide.

I would argue that the M3 seats' bolstering is heavily dependent on your body shape. That extra bolstering my M3 seats is fantastic (my side bolsters are adjustable too). I'm a fairly skinny guy, so whenever I happen to be in to my father's car with normal sport seats and do any sort of spirited driving, I slide around like nobody's business. I want a Natural Brown interior so badly, but I won't go back to standard sport seats.

Rus, my recommendation is dependent on the type of driving you do on average. If you don't hoon your car very often, then I'd say swap for Natural Brown. If you're like me, and are skinny and drive like a yobbo more often than not, I'd say keep the M3 seats despite the black color.

[ZHPizza]

Y'all M3 bolster fanboys don't know grip like the rugged fabric on the Alcantara sport seats

And the awesome breathability

And the lack of surface temperature

And the holes worn slam through the bolster

[holyc0w]

Fo shizzle

[DeathTrap]

Get some aftermarket buckets, call it a day

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[704sw]

Get some aftermarket buckets, call it a day

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Why stop there? We all know the only logical choice is to import some OE CSL seats.

[san]

Why stop there? We all know the only logical choice is to import some OE CSL seats.

Its kinda depressing that ours cars are worth about the price of OE CSL Seats or maybe even less lol


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[ComradeNick]

Its kinda depressing that ours cars are worth about the price of OE CSL Seats or maybe even less lol


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJesus christ a used set sold for 7k in a heartbeat :/

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[704sw]

Jesus christ a used set sold for 7k in a heartbeat :/

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I honestly can’t believe nobody ever made replica CSL seats. They make replicas of every other unique CSL part.

[san]

I honestly can’t believe nobody ever made replica CSL seats. They make replicas of every other unique CSL part.

The cobra nogaro ones come very close though. Are OE CSL seats Recaros?


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[holyc0w]

Can you take out a separate insurance policy on the seats?

[704sw]

The cobra nogaro ones come very close though. Are OE CSL seats Recaros?


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Yep, closest I’ve seen...still mad at myself for not doing that group buy.

And yea, the OE CSLs are based on the Recaro Pole Positions, but modified heavily to make them much more daily’able.

[cakM3]

Brand new OE CSL seats will run you at least $10k if you can source them. This is something I may possibly do for my M3 after getting the carbon fiber roof panel installed... I have a line on a set of brand new never mounted OE CSL seats as well as OE CSL airbox for my M3...

[RUS_ZHP]

My vote goes for natural brown. I believe it's a good combo with red.Thanks Fredo
You already know what I'm going to say. Both my cars have the same interior color, Natural Brown.
Personally I feel M3 seats are nice, but I'd take an interesting color over the M3 seats. The stock sport seats are plenty comfortable and it's not like you drive the touring on the track (unless I'm mistaken), so you shouldn't need the minimal extra bolstering the M3 seats provide.Of course 98% of my driving is not street at reasonable pace. I did 3 autocross this summer and liked m3 seats. But I have no comparison with sports seats.
I think natural brown will look amazing.
I would argue that the M3 seats' bolstering is heavily dependent on your body shape. That extra bolstering my M3 seats is fantastic (my side bolsters are adjustable too). I'm a fairly skinny guy, so whenever I happen to be in to my father's car with normal sport seats and do any sort of spirited driving, I slide around like nobody's business. I want a Natural Brown interior so badly, but I won't go back to standard sport seats.

Rus, my recommendation is dependent on the type of driving you do on average. If you don't hoon your car very often, then I'd say swap for Natural Brown. If you're like me, and are skinny and drive like a yobbo more often than not, I'd say keep the M3 seats despite the black color.For sure man, bolstering is great. I have an adjustable bolstering and it is cool feature.
Decisions...
Y'all M3 bolster fanboys don't know grip like the rugged fabric on the Alcantara sport seats

And the awesome breathability

And the lack of surface temperature

And the holes worn slam through the bolsterIf there would be a 3rd option of getting Alcantara for touring, I would get them without thinking. I know Shawn sourced rear fabric from Europe, but it's too much hassle.
I sold my sedan with Alcantara interior and I loved it. I am not a leather fan in general. That is why I am swapping interior on my wife's car.
Get some aftermarket buckets, call it a day

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkI think it's a bit too much for everyday use. But I never driver a car with buckets.

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[johnrando]

I like boring black leather, but nat brown w red would look great.

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[papa_g]

Been meaning to post this question for a while. A while back, I bought some new window liner from ecs to replace the rotten ones I had when I bought the car. I guess I either botched the job, or the adhesive was bad on this on. A portion did not adhere properly, so now I have this bubble sticking up the in middle (see pic).
For the sake of aesthetics, and water-proofing this area, could anyone recommend a good adhesive to use here, to get the trim to stick permanently. Thanks!
35785


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[704sw]

Been meaning to post this question for a while. A while back, I bought some new window liner from ecs to replace the rotten ones I had when I bought the car. I guess I either botched the job, or the adhesive was bad on this on. A portion did not adhere properly, so now I have this bubble sticking up the in middle (see pic).
For the sake of aesthetics, and water-proofing this area, could anyone recommend a good adhesive to use here, to get the trim to stick permanently. Thanks!

Fortunately this seal has absolutely nothing to do with water proofing. It’s just for wind noise and looks; the gasket on the inside of the window is what keeps water out (and a fully functioning motor lol).

I’m afraid I don’t have a recommendation on adhesive.

[papa_g]

Fortunately this seal has absolutely nothing to do with water proofing. It’s just for wind noise and looks; the gasket on the inside of the window is what keeps water out (and a fully functioning motor lol).

I’m afraid I don’t have a recommendation on adhesive.
Ok, I actually think I’ve read this somewhere but thanks for confirming.
...in that case, looking adhesive recommendations to reduce wind noise and make my car less ugly thx



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[ZHP_Brandon]

Ok, I actually think I’ve read this somewhere but thanks for confirming.
...in that case, looking adhesive recommendations to reduce wind noise and make my car less ugly thx



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A little heat and butyl tape should work wonders here boss


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[az3579]

So curious - is anyone as anal as I am when it comes to this?

When I want to park my touring (automatic transmission), I put it in neutral, pull the parking brake, let off the foot brake, then put it in park. I found it doesn't feel like it's forcing it out of park this way when you go to drive again. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do this before...

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[papa_g]

Not anal. Just protecting your transmission. I do this every time, even on newer cars.

[fredo]

So curious - is anyone as anal as I am when it comes to this?

When I want to park my touring (automatic transmission), I put it in neutral, pull the parking brake, let off the foot brake, then put it in park. I found it doesn't feel like it's forcing it out of park this way when you go to drive again. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do this before...

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I follow the same steps when I park on an incline. If it's flat, then I don't.

[az3579]

Edit: nevermind

[johnrando]

So, that's a thing? Guess I should start doing it, had not heard about that.

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[704sw]

So curious - is anyone as anal as I am when it comes to this?

When I want to park my touring (automatic transmission), I put it in neutral, pull the parking brake, let off the foot brake, then put it in park. I found it doesn't feel like it's forcing it out of park this way when you go to drive again. I don't think I've ever seen anyone do this before...

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If I don’t put the X3 in neutral before going into park it’ll lunch forward (or backwards if I was backing in) after I remove my foot from the brake once in park. I’ve never experienced that in any other AT car but have heard similar stories from other X3 and X5 owners with that GM-supplied gearbox.

[pedro2u]

Not anal. Just protecting your transmission. I do this every time, even on newer cars.

I've always done that. My father told me years ago to set the brake first - "it takes all the weight off the parking pawl."

So now years later, (many) you've made me look that up.... From Wiki regarding parking pawls:

Recommendations
Most vehicle manufacturers and auto mechanics do not recommend using the transmission's parking pawl as the sole means of securing a parked vehicle, instead recommending it should only be engaged after first applying the vehicle's parking brake. Constant use of only the parking pawl, especially when parking on a steep incline, means that driveline components, and transmission internals, are kept constantly under stress, and can cause wear and eventual failure of the parking pawl or transmission linkage. The pawl might also fail or break if the vehicle is pushed with sufficient force, if the parking brake is not firmly engaged. Replacement can be an expensive operation since it not only requires removing the transmission from the vehicle, but it's usually the first component to be installed in the gearbox case during a complete rebuild.

Thanks Dad!

[az3579]

If I don’t put the X3 in neutral before going into park it’ll lunch forward (or backwards if I was backing in) after I remove my foot from the brake once in park. I’ve never experienced that in any other AT car but have heard similar stories from other X3 and X5 owners with that GM-supplied gearbox.

This is definitely not a BMW thing. Every old school automatic car I've ever witnessed parking (traditional non-electronic parking brake models, meaning older cars) lurched forward after being placed in park and the foot off the brake, regardless of the make or model. Some may be better about it than others, but I always wondered why it would be designed like that whenever I saw it.


I've always done that. My father told me years ago to set the brake first - "it takes all the weight off the parking pawl."

So now years later, (many) you've made me look that up.... From Wiki regarding parking pawls:

Recommendations
Most vehicle manufacturers and auto mechanics do not recommend using the transmission's parking pawl as the sole means of securing a parked vehicle, instead recommending it should only be engaged after first applying the vehicle's parking brake. Constant use of only the parking pawl, especially when parking on a steep incline, means that driveline components, and transmission internals, are kept constantly under stress, and can cause wear and eventual failure of the parking pawl or transmission linkage. The pawl might also fail or break if the vehicle is pushed with sufficient force, if the parking brake is not firmly engaged. Replacement can be an expensive operation since it not only requires removing the transmission from the vehicle, but it's usually the first component to be installed in the gearbox case during a complete rebuild.

Thanks Dad!

My original comment was actually geared more around the act of putting the transmission in neutral first, then applying the parking brake, letting the foot off the foot brake and letting the handbrake take the full load, then finally engaging Park, all in that order. I noticed a difference between doing this and just simply pulling the parking brake before putting it into Park. I think it's an important difference to take the weight off the transmission before putting it into Park, not just in one fell swoop. The instructions in your post make it seem like just pulling the handbrake and then putting it into park is enough, but there's still a little bit of stress on the transmission when it finally goes into Park because the stress wasn't completely relieved first before being put in Park.

Are you guys just pulling the parking brake and putting it in Park without letting foot off the brake in between or are you putting in neutral, parking brake and relieving stress, then Park? I'm curious if you notice a difference. On mine, it still feels like there's a tiny bit of stress still on the tranny if I don't put in neutral/pull handbrake/foot off brake first before putting in park.


I never thought I'd think so much about an automatic transmission before... I need a good drive in the ZHP to cleanse me of this automatic mayhem. LOL

[NYRhockey]

Thoughts on paint correction price?

Took it to a local detailer who is very well known in town for doing a fantastic job and when he looked at the car he said my paint was in pretty rough shape with tons of imperfections and pointed out some stuff i didn't even realize/notice. He said to bring the imola fully back and "pop", that it'd need a decontamination & paint correction. The price? $900. I know it'll come out looking great but if "really good" somewhere else is a lot cheaper it would be worth it to go to that somewhere else.

Is this price a "pricey, but not extraordinarily given the quality you're getting", or is it "dude, you can press charges for rape on that deal. Run for safety".

Edit: he couldn’t fit me in til 2nd week in December and had to put 50% deposit and will have car for 4 days. Deposit is refundable assuming I give enough lead time.

[fredo]

Seems pricey to me. I got this quote 2 years ago for $300 : "wash, paint decontamination, wheels cleaned, tires dressed, sealant applied. Includes stage one machine polishing to enhance gloss and remove light scratches."

My black Saab had some holograms, the above took care of it.

[fredo]

BP, this my sequence :

1- stop at designated spot, my foot is on brake pedal
2- put car in neutral
3- engage parking brake
4- release foot from brake pedal, verify car doesn't move
5- put car into Park

[az3579]

Has anyone ordered sunshade clips only to find the screws won't fit? The screws provided are too coarse a thread for my shade, which uses fine threaded screws...

The part number says it fits my car. I don't get it...

PN: 54137134516

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[papa_g]

Are you guys just pulling the parking brake and putting it in Park without letting foot off the brake in between or are you putting in neutral, parking brake and relieving stress, then Park? I'm curious if you notice a difference. On mine, it still feels like there's a tiny bit of stress still on the tranny if I don't put in neutral/pull handbrake/foot off brake first before putting in park.
Yeah I do it exactly how you described: neutral, let go of brake, apply parking brake, put gear into park. I do notice that when I do this, there is less NV when putting in D or R, versus the conventional parking method.


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[Vas]

What is this automatic you guys speak of?

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[DeathTrap]

Damn, automatics are hard to drive!

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[John in VA]

Seems pricey to me. I got this quote 2 years ago for $300 : "wash, paint decontamination, wheels cleaned, tires dressed, sealant applied. Includes stage one machine polishing to enhance gloss and remove light scratches."
My black Saab had some holograms, the above took care of it.
Sounds like better deals in TX - that's the rate here in the DC area for a light detail at a fancy car wash vs. true paint correction from a detailer. There are bargains out there, but too frequently you get what you pay for. For $900 you should be ecstatic with the results - that's still cheaper than some pros here.

[johnrando]

What is this automatic you guys speak of?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkNewfangled invention.

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[pedro2u]

I can't believe I'm in my late 60's and I'm Googling this for the background.... :facepalm I'm really loving my 6MT now!

I'm not finding by Googling that anyone is suggesting putting the car in neutral before setting the handbrake, but it certainly seems like its the same thing. Most sites just say to set the handbrake and put it in Park. And I always thought that mechanically Neutral and Park were essentially equivalent with the exception that the Park positioned included the parking pawl to lock the drive train.

I'm sure both methods achieve the same result since the end result is being in Park (drive train locked) without any stress since the hand brake has locked the wheels via the braking system

[NYRhockey]

BP, this my sequence :

1- stop at designated spot, my foot is on brake pedal
2- put car in neutral
3- engage parking brake
4- release foot from brake pedal, verify car doesn't move
5- put car into Park

This is exactly what i do with an auto. Most of the time when i do this there’s no resistance the next time i shift out of P.


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[johnrando]

I have an acquaintance looking to see is someone has a surplus zhp diff input flange?

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[papa_g]

So I went under the car to investigate a periodic rubbing sound which increases in frequency with wheel speed, as well as a loud click sound whenever I brake or change gears between reverse and drive. From the things I’ve read, it sounded like it might be poorly positioned brake pads, so I examined them, but they look fine. Then I decided to look under the rear suspension and found this. Pretty much the same on the other side. Do I need to replace my diff? I am at 100k miles.
35657

Hey, sorry to bring back this question, but I think I am more concerned about the actual leak at this point. Figured out this is the output flange that needs to be replaced. Thankfully it is on the passenger side (exhaust not in the way). Does anyone know any DIYs out there, I was not able to find any. Thanks :)

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody here from Texas? Got a line on a relatively cheap blower from ActiveAuto but want it inspected before pulling the trigger.

I’m also in contact with VFengineering to see if we could potentially get a group buy going here through this forum... hoping they say yes otherwise the Stage 1 active auto is mine [emoji2371]


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[fredo]

Austin TX here.

[rguti153]

Houston here

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Houston here

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I believe he’s located in Spring so idk how far that is from you lol

Truth be told, Just want someone to inspect the kit and if possible meet up at a shop that knows turbo’s/superchargers to see if it’s worth his asking price or if it will be needing a rebuild


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Austin TX here.

Thanks for the offer Fredo! Should’ve been more specific, the guy is in Houston lol


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[az3579]

I’m also in contact with VFengineering to see if we could potentially get a group buy going here through this forum... hoping they say yes otherwise the Stage 1 active auto is mine [emoji2371]

That's probably wishful thinking... lol
I don't think most of us have a few grand just lying around waiting to be spent!

[holyc0w]

There are other reasons not to get it like added weight, complication, and the fear of more force on the RACP.

[san]

In addition to cost and other cons mentioned above I’d like my car to stay NA.


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[papa_g]

A little heat and butyl tape should work wonders here boss
Bought some butyl tape, but was worried it wouldn’t fit in that small of a gap. Bought some 3M emblem and trim adhesive, and it’s holding. Says water and heat resistant so we shall see...


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Bought some butyl tape, but was worried it wouldn’t fit in that small of a gap. Bought some 3M emblem and trim adhesive, and it’s holding. Says water and heat resistant so we shall see...


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You can probably work knead it to be thin and pliable enough to just adhere the trim to the body. I’ve heard good things about that 3M product, hope it all works out!


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[ZHP_Brandon]

Keep finding folding M3 mirrors over seas and no one wants to ship me them :(

Does anyone know if E9X folding mirror motors are the same as E39 M5/E46 M3 folding mirror motors?

They fold the same way and share the same mirror glass & housing basically.... just wondering if there’s another alternative to this lol


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[Xceler8]

Been a while since I posted last, I searched for battery threads and these kept popping up. Short story below.

Need a new battery for my 2005 330i ZHP, the factory Bosch batteries seem to be discontinued at least at the local retailers. What is a good alternative, or do i just bite the bullet and buy whatever BMW feeds me, and an excessively marked up price?

The one that I just pulled out is model: 94R-730B

[John in VA]

Need a new battery for my 2005 330i ZHP, the factory Bosch batteries seem to be discontinued at least at the local retailers. What is a good alternative, or do i just bite the bullet and buy whatever BMW feeds me, and an excessively marked up price?
The one that I just pulled out is model: 94R-730B
Pep Boys carries them. The H7 size is the equivalent.

[Xceler8]

I just reached out to 3 local stores and non of them had any that would fit. They were being super evasive on the phone too, they are apparently going to stop carrying them and kept trying to push a Champion battery on me which I guess is their in house brand.

I just know these cars are high maintenance and I'm going to be having a local shop reflash everything since I was having issues with the car before I parked it and dont want that to cause issues. I guess worst case I'll just get one from BMW but I know they will bend me over.

[Xceler8]

... sorry so the H7 is the equivalent size for the Champion battery, from what I read they need the AGM battery type aswell. I appreciate the quick response, my 2003 VW TDi Wagon lost a timing belt on the highway last so its pretty much dead, so wanting to get the ZHP back on the road again. So below is the battery that I need to get correct?

https://www.pepboys.com/champion-agm-battery/product/2071662?quantity=1

[Chaplian]

... sorry so the H7 is the equivalent size for the Champion battery, from what I read they need the AGM battery type aswell. I appreciate the quick response, my 2003 VW TDi Wagon lost a timing belt on the highway last so its pretty much dead, so wanting to get the ZHP back on the road again. So below is the battery that I need to get correct?

https://www.pepboys.com/champion-agm-battery/product/2071662?quantity=1

Honestly, I have one of these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000%7CL3*15597

Thing's a monster, but it's made in Germany, has a pretty damn good warranty, and fits with factory mounts. You should also be able to find a coupon to save you some cash.

Make sure to save the venting tee from your current battery.

[papa_g]

Honestly, I have one of these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000%7CL3*15597
900 CCA :o

[Chaplian]

900 CCA :oYep! I LOVE it. Back when I used to daily E46s in winter, it laughed at starting in -15f or -20f.

My OE AGM from BMW lasted 13 years.

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[John in VA]

I just know these cars are high maintenance and I'm going to be having a local shop reflash everything since I was having issues with the car before I parked it and dont want that to cause issues. I guess worst case I'll just get one from BMW but I know they will bend me over.
You don't need the AGM battery, but the Pep Boys offer is decent at $50 off. Wet cell is fine - also $50 off. Buying from the dealer is insanity. Advance Auto, Autozone, Walmart or Costco should also carry what you need.

[az3579]

You don't need the AGM battery, but the Pep Boys offer is decent at $50 off. Wet cell is fine - also $50 off. Buying from the dealer is insanity. Advance Auto, Autozone, Walmart or Costco should also carry what you need.

I would definitely recommend an AGM battery. They don't need to be vented, which is a big benefit, and they last longer and perform better until they give out.

[Xceler8]

Thanks guys for the input, I would have overthought the situation. Glad these aren't as high maintenance as I would have originally thought on the battery front.

While I have you guys engaged here, I know there are a few issues that I'm going to want to address immediately since they were at the point of needing work when I parked the car for the power steering pump failing.

- What is the best resource to source OEM or better quality coil packs without getting bent over
- Same as the above for spark plugs, and are their specific specifications for the ZHP models, or other considerations here (mods below)
- How often do the fuel pumps fail, and will a good shop be able to test fuel pressures. Car was falling on its face after about 3500 RPM and more than 60% throttle where when it was running right would pull harder all the way to redline.

Relevant Mods:
- Dinan Intake
- Dinan Catback
- Shrik Cams (not sure on spec)
- Shark injector tune

[papa_g]

- What is the best resource to source OEM or better quality coil packs without getting bent over
- Same as the above for spark plugs, and are their specific specifications for the ZHP models, or other considerations here (mods below)
- How often do the fuel pumps fail, and will a good shop be able to test fuel pressures. Car was falling on its face after about 3500 RPM and more than 60% throttle where when it was running right would pull harder all the way to redline.


If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, get your parts at fcpeuro. If not, just search for cheapest deal. Bosch coilpacks and NGK spark plugs.
Fuel pumps, properly maintained, can last a while before giving soft failure symptoms like poor fuel pressure and long crank starts. With fuel pump, it depends on how long the car is on, not necessary how many miles.
I would just rent a fuel pressure test kit at autozone and read fuel pressures over the course of a few hours. See if they gradually drop or stay static.
Good practice would be to let it prime in key position 2 before starting the engine, and not letting tank run to E, to get the most life out of your pump.

Not really sure about the mods.

[John in VA]

If you plan on keeping your car for a long time, get your parts at fcpeuro. If not, just search for cheapest deal. Bosch coilpacks and NGK spark plugs.
Agreed, but not sure about the choice of Bosch coils. Here's the forum conversation re: coils - see the last few pages:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15721

[Xceler8]

I know the Delphie coils are what the dealership sold me last time, I think they are the updated version.

Also.... free batteries are the best. They went ahead and warrantied the Bosh 94R I had

[papa_g]

Agreed, but not sure about the choice of Bosch coils. Here's the forum conversation re: coils - see the last few pages:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15721

Thanks for the link, I had no idea Bosch was out of favor.
So, just to clarify, is it saying to avoid Bosch CPs and go with genuine, eldor or Delphi? (Or bremi, which I’ve never heard of)


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[stephenkirsh]

35810

When bleeding the system, and the car starts to overheat, so I turned it off and waiting for it to cool (fan to speed it up).

What is the purpose of waiting for it to FULLY cool down? What is happening?

[DeathTrap]

35810

When bleeding the system, and the car starts to overheat, so I turned it off and waiting for it to cool (fan to speed it up).

What is the purpose of waiting for it to FULLY cool down? What is happening?You let it cool so that:

A) You don't get sprayed in the face with boiling hot coolant when you top it off :)

B) The steam (water vapor) created by raising the coolant above boiling gets a chance to escape out of the system.

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[stephenkirsh]

You let it cool so that:

A) You don't get sprayed in the face with boiling hot coolant when you top it off :)

B) The steam (water vapor) created by raising the coolant above boiling gets a chance to escape out of the system.

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I guess another question is: what’s fully cooled down? When the system is no longer pressurized? Or when everything’s cool to the touch? Or...?

[DeathTrap]

I guess another question is: what’s fully cooled down? When the system is no longer pressurized? Or when everything’s cool to the touch? Or...?I would say when the system is no longer under pressure. Temperature wise, I really can't say. I guess maybe warm to the touch?

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[stephenkirsh]

Yea that’s roughly what I was thinking. Thanks!

[ZHP_Brandon]

That's probably wishful thinking... lol
I don't think most of us have a few grand just lying around waiting to be spent!

Lol well I don’t expect someone who doesn’t have the money to spend, to sign up for the group buy? That’d be a little backwards and counter productive anyway lol

For the people who are interested, This will at least generate some kind of conversation on where kits like VF stand in our community and how many people want the bump in HP lol I’m excited to see what kind of discounts they’d even be willing to give. A lot of these kits are made to order so chances are slim on a deep discount from my POV anyway lol


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[ZHP_Brandon]

In addition to cost and other cons mentioned above I’d like my car to stay NA.


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I agree completely honestly, I’ve been on an OEM+ kick my self but man...... the extra umph would really be great after my car gets out of paint eventually lol


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[sillieidiot]

Lol well I don’t expect someone who doesn’t have the money to spend, to sign up for the group buy? That’d be a little backwards and counter productive anyway lol

For the people who are interested, This will at least generate some kind of conversation on where kits like VF stand in our community and how many people want the bump in HP lol I’m excited to see what kind of discounts they’d even be willing to give. A lot of these kits are made to order so chances are slim on a deep discount from my POV anyway lol


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Yeah I doubt there would be much. They tried to charge me nearly the full price of the kit when they wanted to use my car for their CARB testing. Maybe you'll get more if you get Carbonzhp to help you out with some discount :rofl

[Yankeefan]

I heard a nice little "pop" while trying to roll the passenger window up this weekend. Now the window will roll down but not up (had to pull the window up to close it). I'm guessing that's a window regulator? If so, any advice on the repair and/or other things I should do while I'm in there? Thanks.

[Xceler8]

Thanks guys for all the help on the car. The shop is going to make some money on me today, but I need the car back, so they are doing the power steering pump, high pressure line (leaking), fluid flush and doing a diagnostics check on the engine light.

They are quoting me almost 500 to do the belts and the AC tensioner which seems a little extreme, I figure I can do pulleys and tensioners myself pretty easily. Is there a good thread outlining the part numbers from FCP Euro for what I would need?

[John in VA]

They are quoting me almost 500 to do the belts and the AC tensioner which seems a little extreme, I figure I can do pulleys and tensioners myself pretty easily. Is there a good thread outlining the part numbers from FCP Euro for what I would need?
I didn't find this kit at FCPEuro, but got mine from eBay on special for $115. This was for my 2003 E39, but it appears to apply to the ZHPs. ECS Tuning has more info:
Accessory Drive Belt Kit Continental Elite ADK0046P (with Mechanical Tensioner)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-conti-tech-parts/accessory-belt-kit/adk0046p~crp/

[Vas]

Order this kit and DIY -
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-accessory-drive-belt-kit-11287636379kt

[ZHP_Brandon]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191014/7ed0854128e6708cc1a47c22d9232d7f.jpg

Found on letgo so it’s semi local to me, Tanin Red Sport Interior for coupe.
Not sure if anyone’s interested but, figured I’d post it up lol


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[BMWCurves]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191014/7ed0854128e6708cc1a47c22d9232d7f.jpg

Found on letgo so it’s semi local to me, Tanin Red Sport Interior for coupe.
Not sure if anyone’s interested but, figured I’d post it up lol


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Lol, I do live that 80's cocaine lifestyle. How much?

[ZHP_Brandon]

Lol, I do live that 80's cocaine lifestyle. How much?

Post says 600$ but I’m sure I could negotiate him down some if you wanted me too lol


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[704sw]

Lol, I do live that 80's cocaine lifestyle. How much?

Get that Superman look son

[BMWCurves]

Post says 600$ but I’m sure I could negotiate him down some if you wanted me too lol


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How's the condition?


Get that Superman look son

Honestly...wouldn't hate it. I want some effin' contrast in my interior.

[stephenkirsh]

I heard a nice little "pop" while trying to roll the passenger window up this weekend. Now the window will roll down but not up (had to pull the window up to close it). I'm guessing that's a window regulator? If so, any advice on the repair and/or other things I should do while I'm in there? Thanks.

Unfortunately it’s OE BMW and OE BMW only. I put in an “upgraded HD” one from ECS Tuning and it broke after a year, for a car I drive once a week.

[ZHP_Brandon]

How's the condition?



Honestly...wouldn't hate it. I want some effin' contrast in my interior.

In pictures they look pretty clean, I’ll ask for more pics to my phone.... even tho tapatalk is going to make it look like the pics came from a fuc*in potato lmao [emoji1648]


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[Yankeefan]

Unfortunately it’s OE BMW and OE BMW only. I put in an “upgraded HD” one from ECS Tuning and it broke after a year, for a car I drive once a week.

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of.

[holyc0w]

Best option is probably BMW regulators through FCPEuro. Another thing I saw is that some people have had success with the cheap regulators on ebay.

[ZHP_Brandon]

How's the condition?



Honestly...wouldn't hate it. I want some effin' contrast in my interior.

PM’ing you now


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[NYRhockey]

Tried installing the new shift knob but there is a gap at the bottom, but i have pushed down as far as it goes. It know it has the rail that i need to align but it seems to be facing the correct way when looking at it from the top.

If i put a towel on top of it and use a mallet, it won't be forceful enough to hurt anything, correct?

35816

35817

Interestingly enough, when i removed the old one the PO had put black electrical tape around the shifter bar, which is odd since when trying to put in the new one it would not really fit with the tape on so had to remove it.

[ZHP_Brandon]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191019/3914d2cf89e1afb730485feba1f29046.jpg

Anybody in the NY Tri State want a ZHP coupe back bumper? Met a local guy doing a rocket bunny M3 clone and he’s willing to sell this for cheap

250$ dollars is what he’s asking


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[stephenkirsh]

Tried installing the new shift knob but there is a gap at the bottom, but i have pushed down as far as it goes. It know it has the rail that i need to align but it seems to be facing the correct way when looking at it from the top.

If i put a towel on top of it and use a mallet, it won't be forceful enough to hurt anything, correct?

35816

35817

Interestingly enough, when i removed the old one the PO had put black electrical tape around the shifter bar, which is odd since when trying to put in the new one it would not really fit with the tape on so had to remove it.

Your car isn’t a white sedan is it? I’ve encountered the electrical tape shift knob once before...

[704sw]

Tried installing the new shift knob but there is a gap at the bottom, but i have pushed down as far as it goes. It know it has the rail that i need to align but it seems to be facing the correct way when looking at it from the top.

If i put a towel on top of it and use a mallet, it won't be forceful enough to hurt anything, correct?

Interestingly enough, when i removed the old one the PO had put black electrical tape around the shifter bar, which is odd since when trying to put in the new one it would not really fit with the tape on so had to remove it.

I’d be hesitant to hit it with anything forceful. Can you feel it/hear it go into its guides, and it’s just not going down far enough?

[PdZHP]

Did the boot just loosen up and came down a bit? Maybe the zip tie holding the boot up needs replacing.

[az3579]

Tried installing the new shift knob but there is a gap at the bottom, but i have pushed down as far as it goes. It know it has the rail that i need to align but it seems to be facing the correct way when looking at it from the top.

If i put a towel on top of it and use a mallet, it won't be forceful enough to hurt anything, correct?

35816

35817

Interestingly enough, when i removed the old one the PO had put black electrical tape around the shifter bar, which is odd since when trying to put in the new one it would not really fit with the tape on so had to remove it.You know where to go if you want some help or a 2nd pair of eyes. [emoji6]

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[pedro2u]

I just went out and looked at mine. It looks about in the same position as your picture, but my boot comes up higher - up over the flare in the shaft of the stick that you show exposed. I had to pull the boot down just to see the flare, and it popped right back up when I let go of it

[BMWCurves]

How uh...how often do you y'all change the cabin air filter? Mine's going on 4.5 years old, but only has ~30k miles on it.

[NYRhockey]

Your car isn’t a white sedan is it? I’ve encountered the electrical tape shift knob once before...

Nopers. I got the best and fastestest color, Imola :)

[NYRhockey]

I’d be hesitant to hit it with anything forceful. Can you feel it/hear it go into its guides, and it’s just not going down far enough?

I tried a hand towel and mallet without too much force but it does not go down further. When i look inside the know it has that male track that looks like would fit the female on the shifter but does not appear to be fully aligned. When i watched a couple of videos of people changing their shifter, i notice the new ones slide down very easily, almost like they just drop in place, and then it's just a hard tap to secure it. When i tried putting mine on it's much tighter from the start, almost like the know is thinner than the shifter bar. Then when it does not go any further down, there is no wiggle left/right and feels pretty secure, but then there's that awful gap. I gave up and put the old know back in and sits in just fine without the gap, but did notice it does not have the male track in it.

[NYRhockey]

You know where to go if you want some help or a 2nd pair of eyes. [emoji6]

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haha, for realz. This week stinks but i'll hit ya up next week :)

[704sw]

How uh...how often do you y'all change the cabin air filter? Mine's going on 4.5 years old, but only has ~30k miles on it.

25k-30k I think is the recommended interval?

Interestingly when I replaced them in my old man’s E60, iDrive automatically reset the service alert for 60k. Definitely nowhere near that long in the E46.

[NYRhockey]

Guess there’s still a gap with the old knob just not as pronounced

35847


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[Vas]

How uh...how often do you y'all change the cabin air filter? Mine's going on 4.5 years old, but only has ~30k miles on it.Every other oil change so 15k. Fcpeuro ftw

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[ZHP_Brandon]

Guess there’s still a gap with the old knob just not as pronounced

35847


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Maybe the shift boot is just tired, especially if it’s original.

I can genuinely tell you a new shift boot is so pleasing to the eye, can’t imagine a new knob and boot together lol

If your against spending the money, double check with coby how much it is. Might be worth it to just hot glue it onto your current frame if yours is yellow/sun faded already.


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[NYRhockey]

Maybe the shift boot is just tired, especially if it’s original.

I can genuinely tell you a new shift boot is so pleasing to the eye, can’t imagine a new knob and boot together lol

If your against spending the money, double check with coby how much it is. Might be worth it to just hot glue it onto your current frame if yours is yellow/sun faded already.


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Good call on the boot. Not sure if it's original but could very well be the reason for the gap. Might be worth getting a new boot to go with the knob. Quickly checked out coby and a leather boot (i think look nicer than alcantara) are $30 + (i assume) shipping, so pretty reasonable.