The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[Vas]

Ebc red. Good pads imo

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[ELCID86]

Ebc red. Good pads imo

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Yep. That’s the one.

[3LiterStraightSix]

Wow thanks for all the replies... But now decisions decisions...

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[papa_g]

I just finished my oil pan gasket. I let the car run for 10 minutes after refilling the oil, and no drips!
Well, I got under the car to put the aluminum shield back on, and it noticed some oil leaking from the back passenger corner of the pan. Looks like dirty oil. I want to believe this is just some residual oil that got stuck in a crack somewhere during the job, and leaked out when the temperature went up. Also, the oil i put in should look milky, since i added a bottle of liquimoly ceratec. What do you guys think? Is this normal, or should I be concerned?

[PetesZ]

Let it seat in for a bit.

Watch it for a bit clean it with soap not a full degreaser.

[stephenkirsh]

I am in the minority that prefer the akebono euro ceramic pads.

I hated the oe pads. Swapped them out on all 5 bmws.

+1 no dust:happydane

I’ve tracked the akebono pads and they held up just fine for a newb. The affordable price, no dust and good stopping power make them a win to me.

[3LiterStraightSix]

They're especially affordable when they're backed by Fcp for life ha!

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[ZHPizza]

I’ve tracked the akebono pads and they held up just fine for a newb. The affordable price, no dust and good stopping power make them a win to me.Good to know. I tracked mine the other day and boiled tf out of the fluid. Thought it was the pads getting destroyed but they look to have handled it well.

[704sw]

They're especially affordable when they're backed by Fcp for life ha!

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I saw FCP sells DTC60/70 track pads for the 330 calipers. If they don’t start selling them for the BMWP/135s by the time I need to replace mine next year I might consider putting the OE calipers back on.

[az3579]

I saw FCP sells DTC60/70 track pads for the 330 calipers. If they don’t start selling them for the BMWP/135s by the time I need to replace mine next year I might consider putting the OE calipers back on.

I'm really bummed that FCP's selection is limited to OE stuff, mainly. They don't sell any brake pads for my Wilwood calipers. :(

[DeathTrap]

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

[az3579]

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol


The pads are definitely not up to the job. The calipers can withstand a good amount of heat, and you should be fine running aggressive pads with the stock calipers. You can also run brake cooling ducts from the fog light area directed at the rotor to aid in cooling.

[sillieidiot]

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

Well when you first start, you tend to use your brakes even more than normal so it would hold up even less lol But the stock calipers should be fine. Just need to upgrade the pads. And fresh fluid.

[papa_g]

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.

[3LiterStraightSix]

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.I'm also on the east coast, but my suggestion, which i do, is buy a couple oil changes worth of oil, that way you send back say 4 or 6 jugs at a time. It makes shipping more efficient.


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[ZHPizza]

Or don't abuse the warranty for oil? I'm honestly worried that the M3 guys are going to put FCP out of business with their $80 oil changes. Hopefully they'll remove the lifetime warranty from fluids if it becomes a problem.

[papa_g]

I've had these thoughts too, but honestly I think most people just don't want to deal with packaging and sending back, especially if it is going to cost as much as a new oil change kit. Really considering not sending fluids back now, and I think most FCP customers don't do it for the same reasons. The more expensive OE parts are definitely worth it though

[az3579]

Are the limits of the stock pads and calipers that low? I do plan on getting into racing soon, and I'll probably be as slow as molasses going up a hill in the winter...so I might not even need to upgrade for while lol

I saw a Facebook post this morning that shows the dangers of stock pads as you get faster, even with good fluid.

34195

I'm not sure I can save the video from Facebook, but let's just say the guy almost killed a Miata driver about to take a turn when it just plowed straight past (in front of) him, off the track, and into the wall.



Or don't abuse the warranty for oil? I'm honestly worried that the M3 guys are going to put FCP out of business with their $80 oil changes. Hopefully they'll remove the lifetime warranty from fluids if it becomes a problem.

Don't stress this, man... if they weren't able to sustain everyone doing it, I'm sure they wouldn't allow oil returns. Just do it! (If it's feasible, with shipping)

[san]

I've had these thoughts too, but honestly I think most people just don't want to deal with packaging and sending back, especially if it is going to cost as much as a new oil change kit. Really considering not sending fluids back now, and I think most FCP customers don't do it for the same reasons. The more expensive OE parts are definitely worth it though

I use UPS. It costs me $15-$20... the smaller the size of the package the cheaper it is...


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[DeathTrap]

I saw a Facebook post this morning that shows the dangers of stock pads as you get faster, even with good fluid.

I'm not sure I can save the video from Facebook, but let's just say the guy almost killed a Miata driver about to take a turn when it just plowed straight past (in front of) him, off the track, and into the wall.



This is why I'm anal about good brakes and suspension. My worst fear is not crashing or going into the dirt on the track, but the embarrassment or humiliation of hitting someone else's baby...at least if it's by my negligence.

[Vas]

Another random question for yous. I know some of you are avid FCP Euro customers. I just wanted to know which method you use to ship your used stuff back to them? I know many of the guys on this forumare from the eastcoast, so shipping, or literally dropping the stuff off at their office is simple. I am in Seattle, WA, and i have been looking at my options for sending my used oil back. So far, it seems like i am paying almost the same price to send the oil back, as I would be receiving in refund. Would appreciate any insight here, since honestly I don't have much shipping experience.

You can use the UPS or FedEx option they have on their website to calculate cost to ship and time in transit ( most likely 5 days via Ground Shipping ). Otherwise the only other option is USPS and using a Flat Rate Box since that is a set cost to any state in the United States.

I been using the warranty on oil change kits for a while now. Usually costs me $12 to ship back the kit from Virginia to FCP using UPS Ground.

[rguti153]

Anybody know where I can purchase some alcantara fabric to repair one of my seats ?

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[John in VA]

Anybody know where I can purchase some alcantara fabric to repair one of my seats?
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19427-Bolster-Fixed-Why-did-I-wait-so-long-!-!

[rguti153]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19427-Bolster-Fixed-Why-did-I-wait-so-long-!-!Thank you !!!

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[san]

Car cover: splash the cash and get the OE BMW or are there cheaper alternatives that so the job just as well?


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[Sockethead]

we got an OEM one for the 135 when we were in Jersey... no complaints... fit like a glove. Even had pockets for the mirrors and shark fin

[san]

we got an OEM one for the 135 when we were in Jersey... no complaints... fit like a glove. Even had pockets for the mirrors and shark fin

Thanks Rob.


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[704sw]

Thanks Rob.


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Peterman actually gave me a cover with my car. If I can find it you’re welcome to have it. It’s not OEM but it fits.

If I can find it being the important part.

[san]

Peterman actually gave me a cover with my car. If I can find it you’re welcome to have it. It’s not OEM but it fits.

If I can find it being the important part.

Thanks Spenser. Please let me know if you find it!


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[ZHPizza]

So I've got this loud hum? that comes from under the car around 68-72mph, peaking at 70. It's not a high pitch whine, but sounds like engine/drivetrain noise. Just grows in volume at one speed then goes away when you get away from 70. It only does it when lightly accelerating. No noise when letting off at 80mph and dropping through the zone. It started after I installed a used 3.38 diff and I thought it was an exhaust leak becoming apparent at a certain rpm, but I tested it in 5th and 6th to confirm that it's road speed related, not engine. Gear wear?

[san]

Did anyone have issues with returning used engine oil back to fcp using ups? I sent it back once with no issues but when I tried to last week, they said they can only send 1 liter of used oil due to safety concerns and suggested I try a ups wear house instead of a store...


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[Vas]

Did anyone have issues with returning used engine oil back to fcp using ups? I sent it back once with no issues but when I tried to last week, they said they can only send 1 liter of used oil due to safety concerns and suggested I try a ups wear house instead of a store...


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I just sent back an oil change kit without any issues. However I did it online, printed the label and dropped the package at the UPS Store.

[san]

I just sent back an oil change kit without any issues. However I did it online, printed the label and dropped the package at the UPS Store.

I’ll give that a try, thanks Vas.


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[az3579]

Did anyone have issues with returning used engine oil back to fcp using ups? I sent it back once with no issues but when I tried to last week, they said they can only send 1 liter of used oil due to safety concerns and suggested I try a ups wear house instead of a store...


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Vas, what carrier do you use?

[Vas]

Vas, what carrier do you use?

UPS. It is 2 days via Ground from my location to FCP. Usually runs about $11 to ship the oil change kit

[san]

UPS. It is 2 days via Ground from my location to FCP. Usually runs about $11 to ship the oil change kit

Yup, it was about $17 for me considering I live a little further west...


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[JPMo]

Have you guys seen these morimoto replica Bosch projectors on turner's website? I had no idea these were around but they look like a real viable solution to the burnt projector dilemma.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-554539-bi-xenon-projectors-bosch-replica-repair-kit/?pdk=AQE

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[Dual]

Is it normal that my business radio picks up a lot of noise when the car is in reverse?

[az3579]

Is it normal that my business radio picks up a lot of noise when the car is in reverse?

Do you have LED reverse light bulbs?
I noticed I get a lot of radio static with my LED turn signal and brake light bulbs in my sedan whenever they are activated. I'm pretty sure they're causing interference.

[Dual]

Do you have LED reverse light bulbs?
I noticed I get a lot of radio static with my LED turn signal and brake light bulbs in my sedan whenever they are activated. I'm pretty sure they're causing interference.

Exactly! Thanks. No fix I suppose...?


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[az3579]

Exactly! Thanks. No fix I suppose...?


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Nope... I've been told it's electromagnetic intereference... I don't know how to fix it. I just deal with it... having LED bulbs is more important to me than having radio reception.

[Dual]

Nope... I've been told it's electromagnetic intereference... I don't know how to fix it. I just deal with it... having LED bulbs is more important to me than having radio reception.

Especially if it’s only for a few seconds...


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[Sockethead]

You'd have to shield the bulb's electronics in foil or electrostatic bags to block EMI... probably impossible to do if they are built into the base of the bulb

[az3579]

You'd have to shield the bulb's electronics in foil or electrostatic bags to block EMI... probably impossible to do if they are built into the base of the bulb

It looks like all the electronics are above the base underneath the LEDs. Wish there was a transparent sleeve I could slip the bulb into befoire inserting into the tail light...

[Dual]

In my car, the noise is only generated when I'm in reverse. This, to me, points less to the LED's per se than to something in the car's design.

[az3579]

In my car, the noise is only generated when I'm in reverse. This, to me, points less to the LED's per se than to something in the car's design.


Well no... if your reverse lights are LED bulbs, then they are aftermarket LED bulbs because the stock bulbs aren't LED for reverse. Your brake lights and turn signals are factory LED, so they're designed properly. That is why you have the issue only when in reverse; those reverse LEDs aren't properly shielded.

[ZHPizza]

Well no... if your reverse lights are LED bulbs, then they are aftermarket LED bulbs because the stock bulbs aren't LED for reverse. Your brake lights and turn signals are factory LED, so they're designed properly. That is why you have the issue only when in reverse; those reverse LEDs aren't properly shielded.I thought this was clear but I'll throw my support behind BP here because I've had it happen on other cars. Don't know that I've checked it on this car.

[az3579]

I thought this was clear but I'll throw my support behind BP here because I've had it happen on other cars. Don't know that I've checked it on this car.


Yup. It happens in my buddy's E36. It also happened in my E30, though in that car they also hyperflashed. I also tried the E39 Touring with the same results.

[Dual]

Honest to god I have to stop posting here. Of course!

[Sockethead]

Honest to god I have to stop posting here. Of course!

Negative... you can't learn if you don't ask questions or discuss problems! :)

[ZHPizza]

Honest to god I have to stop posting here. Of course!
Negative... you can't learn if you don't ask questions or discuss problems! :)+1 this is one of those bizarre things that you should always post up because someone at sometime has had the same issue and figured it out

[joeybananaz18]

I put on my winters a couple of weeks ago and noticed a light shimmy in the steering wheel under braking. Never had this issue when my apexs were on and it doesn’t happen under acceleration or regular driving, just braking. Any idea what I should check?


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[ZHPizza]

So I've got this loud hum? that comes from under the car around 68-72mph, peaking at 70. It's not a high pitch whine, but sounds like engine/drivetrain noise. Just grows in volume at one speed then goes away when you get away from 70. It only does it when lightly accelerating. No noise when letting off at 80mph and dropping through the zone. It started after I installed a used 3.38 diff and I thought it was an exhaust leak becoming apparent at a certain rpm, but I tested it in 5th and 6th to confirm that it's road speed related, not engine. Gear wear?Or CSB? Anybody?

[DeathTrap]

Or CSB? Anybody?

Or flex disc? Or driveshaft? I'd say something is off with the diff since that was the last thing replaced.

[BMWCurves]

Or CSB? Anybody?

Something in the driveline would be my first guess. My only other guess would be some bracket that has come loose somewhere in there like the exhaust and vibrates at a certain frequency, but it wouldn't quite match your symptoms.

[Sockethead]

If it was a problem with the diff like too much backlash, it would change pitch or go away when letting off the gas which kinda sounds like what you are describing
Did you swap the pinion flange when you put it in?

[johnrando]

Favorite Wheel Studs? I bought some Turner ones and they rusted a bit, plus they didn't have the allen wrench feature, and they were lacking in the "looks" department, as it's all "thread". Hieu and I took mine out this week. He has a set I am considering that are stronger and has the allen wrench end, but I am interested in other options, especially ones that have a strong coating for a clean look, bullet nose, and an allen wrench end. I am not finding anything that really stands out yet. Any ideas?

[704sw]

Favorite Wheel Studs? I bought some Turner ones and they rusted a bit, plus they didn't have the allen wrench feature, and they were lacking in the "looks" department, as it's all "thread". Hieu and I took mine out this week. He has a set I am considering that are stronger and has the allen wrench end, but I am interested in other options, especially ones that have a strong coating for a clean look, bullet nose, and an allen wrench end. I am not finding anything that really stands out yet. Any ideas?

I think any of the hex nose are going to be subject to rusting, where the bullet nose removes that “pocket” where water can sit. I wish I had bullet nose for that reason, but I just make sure to get the air gun (read: electric leaf blower) on there when I’m drying off the car after a bath.

I have Apex brand hex nose studs, 75mm I think. They’re way too long for my preference without spacers, but look nice when the spacers shorten the amount of exposed thread.

[Vas]

Favorite Wheel Studs? I bought some Turner ones and they rusted a bit, plus they didn't have the allen wrench feature, and they were lacking in the "looks" department, as it's all "thread". Hieu and I took mine out this week. He has a set I am considering that are stronger and has the allen wrench end, but I am interested in other options, especially ones that have a strong coating for a clean look, bullet nose, and an allen wrench end. I am not finding anything that really stands out yet. Any ideas?

Check this place out.

https://motorsporthardware.com/product-category/bmw/wheel-stud-conversion-kits/

[ZHPizza]

Or flex disc? Or driveshaft? I'd say something is off with the diff since that was the last thing replaced.
Something in the driveline would be my first guess. My only other guess would be some bracket that has come loose somewhere in there like the exhaust and vibrates at a certain frequency, but it wouldn't quite match your symptoms.
If it was a problem with the diff like too much backlash, it would change pitch or go away when letting off the gas which kinda sounds like what you are describing
Did you swap the pinion flange when you put it in?Yeah that's why I was thinking diff issue. I only swapped the output flanges, didn't touch the input flange since it was a 3.38. Could that be due to wear? It had like 175k on it and I have no way of knowing if it was run low on fluid.

[az3579]

I think any of the hex nose are going to be subject to rusting, where the bullet nose removes that “pocket” where water can sit. I wish I had bullet nose for that reason, but I just make sure to get the air gun (read: electric leaf blower) on there when I’m drying off the car after a bath.

I have Apex brand hex nose studs, 75mm I think. They’re way too long for my preference without spacers, but look nice when the spacers shorten the amount of exposed thread.


I took mine off after only a few months. A few studs got severely stuck to my hub (and some had stuck nuts as well). I had to take the car to a tire shop to extract them.

And that was just Blue Loctite, which should be removable with hand tools.


Never again. Wheel bolts from here on out!

[johnrando]

Check this place out.

https://motorsporthardware.com/product-category/bmw/wheel-stud-conversion-kits/

Thanks. Good site. Still not exactly what I want.

[Sockethead]

These are the ones I have...
https://vorshlag-store.com/collections/bmw-e46-wheel-studs-spacers/products/vorshlag-17mm-hex-m12-1-5-bmw-black-lug-nut

[nextelbuddy]

does anyone know what the deal with the DEPO LED clear sidemarker lights for Sedan in AMBER color is? i had them on my sedan and loved them but sold them when i did the conversion.

id like to get them for the wagon now but i cant find them anywhere.

i can find the WHITE led version but not the amber. there is one seller on EBAY that has them but they have them listed af $333 s oit sounds like there may be some type of back order and they are just trying to find an idiot that will pay that much for side marker lights.

these are the $333 ones that im looking for but for the normal price of $50ish dollars.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/D6EAAOSwsFpWRRGg/s-l1600.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-Clear-Amber-Bar-LED-Side-Marker-Lights-For-02-05-BMW-E46-4D-Sedan-5D-Wagon/121840419699?hash=item1c5e414373:g:D6EAAOSwsFpWRRG g

[az3579]

I would contact them to see if the price was posted in error. That doesn't sound right...

[johnrando]

These are the ones I have...
https://vorshlag-store.com/collections/bmw-e46-wheel-studs-spacers/products/vorshlag-17mm-hex-m12-1-5-bmw-black-lug-nut

Those are nice! Def what I was looking for. Hard to tell the difference between those and the Macht Schnell ones, which William (and Hieu) use and I like.

https://europeanautosource.com/macht-schnell-competition-stud-conversion-kit.html

[nextelbuddy]

I would contact them to see if the price was posted in error. That doesn't sound right...

i did and they wrote back that they purposely put it up that high when their vendor is out of stock and when people message them about it they tell them to add it to the watch list so that we will all see the price go down when it comes back in stock....


what a weird procedure.

[BMWCurves]

i did and they wrote back that they purposely put it up that high when their vendor is out of stock and when people message them about it they tell them to add it to the watch list so that we will all see the price go down when it comes back in stock....


what a weird procedure.

At least they're semi transparent?

[John in VA]

i did and they wrote back that they purposely put it up that high when their vendor is out of stock and when people message them about it they tell them to add it to the watch list so that we will all see the price go down when it comes back in stock...
what a weird procedure.
I've read sellers do this when they're out of town/on vacation as it saves on fees for relisting or some other eBay fee structure voodoo (I've never sold there). Who knows, someone might buy at that price!

[stephenkirsh]

I've read sellers do this when they're out of town/on vacation as it saves on fees for relisting or some other eBay fee structure voodoo (I've never sold there). Who knows, someone might buy at that price!

Makes sense to me. I sell on eBay and they’re not very friendly toward sellers.

[holyc0w]

I have a rattle of sorts coming from the passenger door or possibly the B pillar. It kind of sounds like a ping pong ball bouncing around. It intensifies based on the size of the bump, and reverberates until it dies down. Any ideas?

[ComradeNick]

I have a rattle of sorts coming from the passenger door or possibly the B pillar. It kind of sounds like a ping pong ball bouncing around. It intensifies based on the size of the bump, and reverberates until it dies down. Any ideas?

Could be the seatbelt bearing, any issues pulling it in and out?


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[holyc0w]

Could be the seatbelt bearing, any issues pulling it in and out?


I checked the seatbelt. Everything seems fine. I'm pretty sure it's in the passenger door, and it rattles with the window up or down. Best option is probably to take the door trim off and take a look inside. Too bad it's a bit cold here.

[ComradeNick]

I checked the seatbelt. Everything seems fine. I'm pretty sure it's in the passenger door, and it rattles with the window up or down. Best option is probably to take the door trim off and take a look inside. Too bad it's a bit cold here.

That sounds like the best bet, somethings probably just loose, hopefully it warms up soon enough.


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[stephenkirsh]

I’m doing a zkw kit from The Retrofit Source. They include nearly 0 instructions.

Anybody know what all these extra rings are for? I purchased the optional bulb holder, so I’m assuming they’re not needed, but who knows.

And the retrofit source’s cust support is shit.

[704sw]

I’m doing a zkw kit from The Retrofit Source. They include nearly 0 instructions.

Anybody know what all these extra rings are for? I purchased the optional bulb holder, so I’m assuming they’re not needed, but who knows.

And the retrofit source’s cust support is shit.

The customer support used to be incredible back when it was just “Matt @ TRS” running the show out of his garage. As with most small companies, they completely lost that with growth.

Do you have pics of what you have? Is it just the ZKW clear lenses or total projector overhaul?

[stephenkirsh]

I’m doing a zkw kit from The Retrofit Source. They include nearly 0 instructions.

Anybody know what all these extra rings are for? I purchased the optional bulb holder, so I’m assuming they’re not needed, but who knows.

And the retrofit source’s cust support is shit.

The picture didn’t post in the first one. Oops.

34448

[YoitsTmac]

Hey everyone. I really need help with this. Straight up, I've self taught myself everything I know about cars. I've only had auto's. I have a ZHP 6spd transmission and am thinking of doing the detent pins. Is there any DIY for this? The transmission was properly expensive and frankly so are these detent pins if I'm looking at the right things.

This is the diagram I've been referring to: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-05-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=23_1054
Essentially thinking about grabbing everything on that page except the caps.

My transmission has 77k miles on it. Is this perhaps something to put off for a few years? Or is this like, probably so necessary that I should just do it now? I'm not afraid to drop the transmission another time in a few years, but I am currently scared of messing up the transmission by doing this job. Any advice on if I should do it, only certain ones/certain gears, and a DIY would be greatly appreciated.

[az3579]

What about the detent pins, exactly?
You shouldn't have to do anything with the transmission's detent pins. Are they defective?
I've never heard of issues with anything other than the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing. If you're referring to preventative maintenance, then I guess my answer would be "there's no need" for replacing those.

[Vas]

detent pins are usually an issue on the 5spd zf gearboxes iirc

[YoitsTmac]

Okay glad I asked! Then I won’t be doing them. Again sorry I’ve only dealt with autos and the way people talk about the 5spd I assumed the 6spd needed it too


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[papa_g]

question for anyone who has taken apart the center console and put it back together for whatever reason (e.g. to refresh that peeling rubber mess):
Why is this happening? I put it back together and it seemed very straightforward. took it apart again to see if maybe something was getting the in the way. I cannot for the life of me figure out why this part won't fit back flush again.
34495

[704sw]

I wish I could help, but the only time I took my armrest console apart was to remove it.

[az3579]

I think you can manhandle that piece by hand to get it into place. That piece is separate from the armrest.

[704sw]

Are the two wires into the ambient temperature sensor polarized (not sure the right word) at all? They are the same color, and when my car was hit they ripped out of the plug. I’m trying to splice them together but don’t want to short or damage anything.

[sillieidiot]

question for anyone who has taken apart the center console and put it back together for whatever reason (e.g. to refresh that peeling rubber mess):
Why is this happening? I put it back together and it seemed very straightforward. took it apart again to see if maybe something was getting the in the way. I cannot for the life of me figure out why this part won't fit back flush again.
[ATTACH]34495[/ATTACH

You just snap it in. The arm rest needs to be up a bit (like 45 degs or so) I believe as you push it down. You want to do it with the rear tray removed first though.


Are the two wires into the ambient temperature sensor polarized (not sure the right word) at all? They are the same color, and when my car was hit they ripped out of the plug. I’m trying to splice them together but don’t want to short or damage anything.

I'm pretty sure they aren't. But you could just test them like I did. I just strip some wire and just tie it together enough to make a connection then go to the car and see. It takes a bit to register and then you'll see the temp change.

[papa_g]

You just snap it in. The arm rest needs to be up a bit (like 45 degs or so) I believe as you push it down. You want to do it with the rear tray removed first though.

Aha!! Going to try this now

[papa_g]

So my dumb ass put the screws in before putting the unattached piece in. Didn't go down all the way because the screws were in the way. Probelm solved.

[nextelbuddy]

I'm curious if there's anybody that has the OEM BMW performance kidney grills sedan fitment. do the grills themselves have the full part number anywhere on them or do they have like a partial different number on them?

I just picked up a zhp' parts car a few weeks back starting to tear down now the grills on it were damaged and the sense that the back has were broken at the clips but the fronts are still good so I can repair them I look at the pictures online of the OEM performance grills and they look just like it but I can't find anywhere that showed the part number on the plastic anywhere.

The only numbers I see on it BM 07010 - 2 and -3

if they are not OEM then I'm just going to trash them not worth saving but if they are the oem ones I will try to fix them.

[papa_g]

Does anyone have a good diy on adjusting the door handle? A while back, I did this DIY and I think it made my door more difficult to open and close (like the latching mechanism doesnt fit right anymore: https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=647631
I also adjusted the screw inside the door with this DIY, and did not help: https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=372060

Appreciate any help on this

G

[JPMo]

I'm curious if there's anybody that has the OEM BMW performance kidney grills sedan fitment. do the grills themselves have the full part number anywhere on them or do they have like a partial different number on them?

I just picked up a zhp' parts car a few weeks back starting to tear down now the grills on it were damaged and the sense that the back has were broken at the clips but the fronts are still good so I can repair them I look at the pictures online of the OEM performance grills and they look just like it but I can't find anywhere that showed the part number on the plastic anywhere.

The only numbers I see on it BM 07010 - 2 and -3

if they are not OEM then I'm just going to trash them not worth saving but if they are the oem ones I will try to fix them.I quickly took a picture this morning before leaving to work. It's a little hard to see but that's what I see written on my grills from under the hood. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/80b1a9660fee878146a436185387e67e.jpg

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[nextelbuddy]

Thanks man, that confirms mine are not OEM. �� Appreciate it!

[stephenkirsh]

Anybody ever had a defective floater in the ET? It sinks no matter how full the fluid is.

34601

[3LiterStraightSix]

Anybody ever had a defective floater in the ET? It sinks no matter how full the fluid is.

34601Maybe the foam broke off the bottom of the stick?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

Anybody ever had a defective floater in the ET? It sinks no matter how full the fluid is.


Still can’t get it up!? ;)

[stephenkirsh]

Maybe the foam broke off the bottom of the stick?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

That’s the white thing, right? If so, it’s still there.

[DeathTrap]

I'm at almost 191k and I have my FCPEuro cart loaded with like 50 things. I'm pretty much wanting to shotgun everything that hasn't been replaced since the birth of the car (Mostly suspension stuff and sensors and the coolant pipes under the intake). Is this a good idea or am I jumping the gun cause it's kinda expensive lol. I do plan on trying out some autocross this year (2019)

[joeybananaz18]

I'm at almost 191k and I have my FCPEuro cart loaded with like 50 things. I'm pretty much wanting to shotgun everything that hasn't been replaced since the birth of the car (Mostly suspension stuff and sensors and the coolant pipes under the intake). Is this a good idea or am I jumping the gun cause it's kinda expensive lol. I do plan on trying out some autocross this year (2019)

I’d think preventative maintenance is key before any type of hpde.


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[stephenkirsh]

I'm at almost 191k and I have my FCPEuro cart loaded with like 50 things. I'm pretty much wanting to shotgun everything that hasn't been replaced since the birth of the car (Mostly suspension stuff and sensors and the coolant pipes under the intake). Is this a good idea or am I jumping the gun cause it's kinda expensive lol. I do plan on trying out some autocross this year (2019)

Yes on cooling system.

Depends on suspension. It’s most likely shot, but if you start getting into autox you may want to do upgrades.

[DeathTrap]

This is for a stock refresh. Upgrades are in the cards, but I need to establish a baseline first.

I'm tired of doing preventative in bits and pieces, time to cry once and smile for the rest of the year. :D

[az3579]

...time to cry once and smile for the rest of the year. :D

With an aging BMW, that's just a dream. LOL

It definitely suits the OCD to do it all at once though. It's nice not having to do them in pieces for sure.

[BMWCurves]

With an aging BMW, that's just a dream. LOL

It definitely suits the OCD to do it all at once though. It's nice not having to do them in pieces for sure.

Makes life a lot easier having everything apart, just have to be a bit more meticulous keeping track of everything.

[fredo]

What's the preferred BMW VIN decoder these days ? My favorite one was bmwvin.com but it's not working anymore.

[John in VA]

What's the preferred BMW VIN decoder these days ? My favorite one was bmwvin.com but it's not working anymore.

https://www.mdecoder.com/ does a good job usually.

[pedro2u]

I use this one too:

https://decoder.bvzine.com/

[BMWCurves]

Has anyone experienced a low grumble from what sounds like the transmission/drive shaft tunnel when starting from a stop when they've driven in heavy rain and through a few deep puddles? It does not affect driving, does not occur at other RPMs or driving situations, and goes away after ~20 minutes if you've parked. I'm assuming 20 minutes is the time needed to drain whatever water got into some nooks and crannies (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjfxk6ESHzQ&t=1m6s). Thoughts?

[az3579]

Has anyone experienced a low grumble from what sounds like the transmission/drive shaft tunnel when starting from a stop when they've driven in heavy rain and through a few deep puddles? It does not affect driving, does not occur at other RPMs or driving situations, and goes away after ~20 minutes if you've parked. I'm assuming 20 minutes is the time needed to drain whatever water got into some nooks and crannies (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjfxk6ESHzQ&t=1m6s). Thoughts?

Yup, all the time. It's more of a grinding noise than a grumble.
It's a loose exhaust clamp in my case, and allows the pipes to move around more than they should. The last time we found it, we tightened it and it was fine for a long while, but it has come back.

[BMWCurves]

Yup, all the time. It's more of a grinding noise than a grumble.
It's a loose exhaust clamp in my case, and allows the pipes to move around more than they should. The last time we found it, we tightened it and it was fine for a long while, but it has come back.

So why the association with heavy rains? Driving through puddles knocking the exhaust bracket loose?

[az3579]

So why the association with heavy rains? Driving through puddles knocking the exhaust bracket loose?

Don't know. The only thing I can think of is the temperature difference when the cold water hits the hot pipes.

[NYRhockey]

What are the common causes of poor gas mileage? Today i put in 15 gallons after 302 miles and been getting 20-21 consistently, probably since i've had the car. Seem to remember getting mid 20s (24-26) in my previous zhp?

[3LiterStraightSix]

What are the common causes of poor gas mileage? Today i put in 15 gallons after 302 miles and been getting 20-21 consistently, probably since i've had the car. Seem to remember getting mid 20s (24-26) in my previous zhp?I'm in the same boat. Think my DISA is shot.

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[az3579]

What are the common causes of poor gas mileage? Today i put in 15 gallons after 302 miles and been getting 20-21 consistently, probably since i've had the car. Seem to remember getting mid 20s (24-26) in my previous zhp?Really depends on a number of things. Do you have any codes?

Things that can cause poor mileage include:
* Intake leaks
* Clogged fuel filter
* O2 sensors nearing or surpassing 100k
* Bad MAF
* Spark plugs / ignition coils (unlikely though)
* Clogged catalytic converter (this one is my issue)

And the most important one:
Non-fuel efficient driving (driving style)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[3LiterStraightSix]

Really depends on a number of things. Do you have any codes?

Things that can cause poor mileage include:
* Intake leaks
* Clogged fuel filter
* O2 sensors nearing or surpassing 100k
* Bad MAF
* Spark plugs / ignition coils (unlikely though)
* Clogged catalytic converter (this one is my issue)

And the most important one:
Non-fuel efficient driving (driving style)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkInteresting! I know for sure my o2 sensors are originals, at 137k. How do they cause bad mileage? Providing an incorrect Fuel/Air mixture?

And how do you determine that your Cat is clogged?

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[John in VA]

The winter fuel blend also result in fewer MPGs vs. summer blend. Nice that regular is $1.88 & premium $2.18 currently!

[az3579]

Interesting! I know for sure my o2 sensors are originals, at 137k. How do they cause bad mileage? Providing an incorrect Fuel/Air mixture?

And how do you determine that your Cat is clogged?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

Yes, the O2 sensors are very sensitive pieces of equipment. They help with adjusting for air/fuel mixture.

My car has clogged cats, with a serious loss of power/torque and a huge hit on fuel economy. Where I used to be able to easily hit 30-31 mpg highway, before O2 sensor replacement I struggled to hit 24, and a Prius can out-accelerate my car. Acceleration also feels funky; sometimes it's a little choppy. Here is a video I took on accelerating on to an on-ramp. 3rd gear, 45 mph to almost 75 mph took that amount of time.


https://youtu.be/MH4jsI4EOFo

Replacing my O2 sensors allows me to at least maintain 25-26 mpg, even with the clogged cat.


The winter fuel blend also result in fewer MPGs vs. summer blend. Nice that regular is $1.88 & premium $2.18 currently!

It doesn't make that much of a difference with a well running vehicle, in my experience.

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[NYRhockey]

Really depends on a number of things. Do you have any codes?

Things that can cause poor mileage include:
* Intake leaks
* Clogged fuel filter
* O2 sensors nearing or surpassing 100k
* Bad MAF
* Spark plugs / ignition coils (unlikely though)
* Clogged catalytic converter (this one is my issue)

And the most important one:
Non-fuel efficient driving (driving style)

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

No lights on dashboard so no codes that I’m aware of. Car drives fine and the same way since i got it so just confused as to what it could be. Turns out there are various reasons for it. I’m pretty sure previous owner did spark plugs but o2 sensors I believe are original.


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[papa_g]

Which O2 sensors should be replaced? precat or post cat? Is it a pretty easy job?

[Sockethead]

Pre-cat. Yep it’s easy. They are right on top of the manifold

[ComradeNick]

The winter fuel blend also result in fewer MPGs vs. summer blend. Nice that regular is $1.88 & premium $2.18 currently!

Aw man I’m paying close 4 bucks a gallon for 91 octane. And that’s CA 91 which is diluted with ethanol -_-.


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[az3579]

No lights on dashboard so no codes that I’m aware of. Car drives fine and the same way since i got it so just confused as to what it could be. Turns out there are various reasons for it. I’m pretty sure previous owner did spark plugs but o2 sensors I believe are original.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWell, you're local - we can do a drive cycle with me driving and I'll let you know what I think. [emoji6]

We have to discuss your lighting situation, by the way.

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[stephenkirsh]

Aw man I’m paying close 4 bucks a gallon for 91 octane. And that’s CA 91 which is diluted with ethanol -_-.


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$4.01 in NorCal

[papa_g]

Pre-cat. Yep it’s easy. They are right on top of the manifold

Just watched a 50skid video. Looks easy. What is the part number? On FCP euro I am seeing 3 different kinds of o2 sensor. I am guessing it's the one labeled "upstream"... damn these things are expensive!
Also, while on the topic, how often should post-cat sensors be replaced?

UPDATE: found which o2 sensors I need. They are way more expensive for newer e46s. Over $250 for a pair :facepalm

[YoitsTmac]

$4.01 in NorCal

Where are you? I just filled up in NorCal and drove down to SoCal for uni. I paid 3.65 for 91 a few mins north of SF.

Was really shocked to see I could really only get 24mpg on my journey. It was cold, it was raining hard, and I had 300lbs of stuff in the car, but I don’t feel that’s a good reason to lose 4-5MPG. Definitely will ponder on the pre car sensors

[az3579]

Just watched a 50skid video. Looks easy. What is the part number? On FCP euro I am seeing 3 different kinds of o2 sensor. I am guessing it's the one labeled "upstream"... damn these things are expensive!
Also, while on the topic, how often should post-cat sensors be replaced?

UPDATE: found which o2 sensors I need. They are way more expensive for newer e46s. Over $250 for a pair :facepalmDon't buy the OE ones; they're a total waste of money. Get the Bosch ones, PN 17215, Qty 2. Same part number for both banks. Way cheaper, same part.

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[ZHPizza]

Don't buy the OE ones; they're a total waste of money. Get the Bosch ones, PN 17215, Qty 2. Same part number for both banks. Way cheaper, same part.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkThis right here is the ticket. And O2 sensors are definitely something that you don't want to go off-brand on. You'll see plenty of Chinese options in the $50 range when you search for the Bosch part number, but you'll just end up with the same problems from a slow reacting sensor.

Bosch 17215 Oxygen Sensor, Original Equipment (BMW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CF3WOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AHHmCb2NKM680

[stephenkirsh]

Where are you? I just filled up in NorCal and drove down to SoCal for uni. I paid 3.65 for 91 a few mins north of SF.

Was really shocked to see I could really only get 24mpg on my journey. It was cold, it was raining hard, and I had 300lbs of stuff in the car, but I don’t feel that’s a good reason to lose 4-5MPG. Definitely will ponder on the pre car sensors

Petaluma. It’s always slightly more expensive than SF for some reason.

[johnrando]

Would bad O2 sensors throw a code?

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[stephenkirsh]

Would bad O2 sensors throw a code?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yes. Not a specific one, though.

[az3579]

Would bad O2 sensors throw a code?

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If they are reading out of spec, then yes. Sometimes they can just be really worn but not bad enough to throw a code. In these instances you'll lose out on fuel economy, but the readings would still be within spec to not trigger a code.

[DeathTrap]

My cat(s) are definitely bad. I wouldn't say clogged, but this shouldn't be happening. The Bank 1, Sensor 2 voltage should be relatively stable like the Bank 2 Sensor 2 voltage. I have headers coming soon :)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4914/46265162742_a524848b62_z.jpg

[YoitsTmac]

Petaluma. It’s always slightly more expensive than SF for some reason.

I’ll be damned. I’m 10 mins from San Rafael. We got a Z4 race car in Santa Rosa and a 135 that basically needs $1 in maintenance for every mile drive. Cool to know there’s other members so close! I wonders if I’ve ran into you at a cars and coffee.

[3LiterStraightSix]

This right here is the ticket. And O2 sensors are definitely something that you don't want to go off-brand on. You'll see plenty of Chinese options in the $50 range when you search for the Bosch part number, but you'll just end up with the same problems from a slow reacting sensor.

Bosch 17215 Oxygen Sensor, Original Equipment (BMW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CF3WOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AHHmCb2NKM680This is for newer e46's right? Pretty sure my 01 has a different part number and is only 60 bucks

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[ZHPizza]

This is for newer e46's right? Pretty sure my 01 has a different part number and is only 60 bucks

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using TapatalkYep. I saw that the guy asking also had an '05 so I confirmed BP's part number with what I had on my purchase sheet.

[papa_g]

Yeah. I also saw the older e46s have a way cheaper o2 sensor haha... why is that anyway?
The Bosch sensors are $127 each at FCP euro. At least then I can replace for free.

[stephenkirsh]

I’ll be damned. I’m 10 mins from San Rafael. We got a Z4 race car in Santa Rosa and a 135 that basically needs $1 in maintenance for every mile drive. Cool to know there’s other members so close! I wonders if I’ve ran into you at a cars and coffee.

Why $1 per mile?

[YoitsTmac]

Why $1 per mile?

Because it’s done 3,000 miles since it’s purchase and cost $3,000 between warranty claims and maintenance. Granted it has been tracked but still

[NYRhockey]

Well, you're local - we can do a drive cycle with me driving and I'll let you know what I think. [emoji6]

We have to discuss your lighting situation, by the way.

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ha, true story. Might need you to take it for a spin one of these days, though now with the worst part of winter coming and you having the touring to also take care of, might need to wait til spring to figure out the lighting situation.

[stephenkirsh]

Because it’s done 3,000 miles since it’s purchase and cost $3,000 between warranty claims and maintenance. Granted it has been tracked but still

Oh gotcha lol

What groups/classes for the z4?

[YoitsTmac]

Oh gotcha lol

What groups/classes for the z4?

Sorry, guess I should have been clear. It’s the track car for us/him. Every bushing is poly, suspension and drivetrain fully rebuilt, and is officially too stiff for his girlfriend to want to ride in. Its new to the family and also one of the only E85 Z4’s with an MS43 for easy tuning. If wallet permits it’ll get an N54 this summer. It’s such a blast.

[stephenkirsh]

Sorry, guess I should have been clear. It’s the track car for us/him. Every bushing is poly, suspension and drivetrain fully rebuilt, and is officially too stiff for his girlfriend to want to ride in. Its new to the family and also one of the only E85 Z4’s with an MS43 for easy tuning. If wallet permits it’ll get an N54 this summer. It’s such a blast.

You lost me with the coding stuff. I think ms43 is for m54s?

[Sockethead]

MS45.1 replaced the MS43 DME. MS45 can do more from an engine management viewpoint but because of that, it’s more complicated to tune.

[DeathTrap]

And apparently the MS45.1 has more security built into it, making it very difficult to break into.

[papa_g]

Back to the O2 sensor question: Will be replacing pre-cat sensors. Should I also replace post-cat sensors? What is the service interval on the post-cats? I am at 95k miles.

[Sockethead]

Just do the pre-cat. The other ones do nothing other than monitoring the cats...

[zak]

Hey guys, I found some plugs in a box that my brother had and was wondering if anybody has any thoughts on these plugs. I took one of the old ones out and they are a bit different. They do come up as a fit when i searched.

34636

34637

[John in VA]

Hey guys, I found some plugs in a box that my brother had and was wondering if anybody has any thoughts on these plugs. I took one of the old ones out and they are a bit different. They do come up as a fit when i searched.
They should be fine. Bosch & NGK were both used.

[zak]

Thanks

[BADCLOWN]

Anyone have the PN for the plastic cover that’s in the engine bay (top) that I believe covers the wiper motor?

[az3579]

Anyone have the PN for the plastic cover that’s in the engine bay (top) that I believe covers the wiper motor?

The windshield cowl?



51718208483




https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/120138_x800.jpg

[BADCLOWN]

Negative, the wider/slightly shorter piece above where a strut bar would go but below the cowl piece you posted

[704sw]

Negative, the wider/slightly shorter piece above where a strut bar would go but below the cowl piece you posted

The one covering the cabin air filter?

[az3579]

Negative, the wider/slightly shorter piece above where a strut bar would go but below the cowl piece you posted

The only thing I can think of that matches that description is the cabin filter cover... but that doesn't cover the wiper motors.
Have a pic?

[BADCLOWN]

I guess it’s the cabin filter cover, I couldn’t find anything on ECS but was able to finally find it searching that. Thanks

[Yankeefan]

I will be doing some preventative maintenance soon- new water pump and thermostat. I have a container of the green 50/50 premixed coolant from Advanced Auto in my garage already. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $22 to buy the BMW coolant (blue, I believe) from FCP Euro instead for my ZHP?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-coolant-antifreeze-82141467704

[slater]

I will be doing some preventative maintenance soon- new water pump and thermostat. I have a container of the green 50/50 premixed coolant from Advanced Auto in my garage already. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $22 to buy the BMW coolant (blue, I believe) from FCP Euro instead for my ZHP?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-coolant-antifreeze-82141467704

yes, ONLY use BMW coolant. it's actually as cheap as the generic stuff from the auto parts store.

[papa_g]

+1
After a proper flush with DI water, 1 jug will be plenty I think (you need to dilute it 50/50 with DI water, so you will get twice the coolant volume)

[joeybananaz18]

I feel like my AC is blowing musty air. Is there a cleaner I can use to spray in behind the cabin filter? need a new one of those too so a suggestion for one would be appreciated.

[John in VA]

I feel like my AC is blowing musty air. Is there a cleaner I can use to spray in behind the cabin filter? need a new one of those too so a suggestion for one would be appreciated.
I chose the Mann Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter for its added "features"; didn't break the bank at $27!
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=64319257504

I've used BG Frigi-Fresh spray. Nextzett Klima-Cleaner does a good job, too.
https://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-klima-cleaner-air-freshener.html

[joeybananaz18]

I chose the Mann Frecious Plus Cabin Air Filter for its added "features"; didn't break the bank at $27!
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=64319257504

I've used BG Frigi-Fresh spray. Nextzett Klima-Cleaner does a good job, too.
https://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-klima-cleaner-air-freshener.html

Ordered. Thanks John. Anything else I should look to take care of while I’m in and around that area?


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[Sockethead]

Might also be mildew on the evaporator... I've used this on my last e46. You have to spray it directly into the system under the dash through one of the vents.

https://www.autogeek.net/wuachesytr6o.html?productid=wuachesytr6o&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&utm_campaign=1504990722&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=287205172222&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2-3StL-B4AIVkInICh3x0AiAEAQYASABEgJ8vvD_BwE

[papa_g]

I have the same problem. So you just spray it into one of the footwell air vents? do you have to remove any panels to get to the evaporator?
Also my A/C is leaking, and the leak does not show up with a UV dye test. I have replaced the compressor, expansion valve, receiver/dryer, schrader valves... where else could the leak be coming from?

[Sockethead]

It was a long time ago so I'm not sure but I think I sprayed it in one of the vents in the passenger footwell.

[az3579]

Not necessarily about my ZHP, but this could apply to any car, really.

Anyone heard of front struts starting the "bounce" one day and be totally fine the next day? I thought once shocks/struts start the "bounce" they're toast and there's no going back until replaced. It was single digit temps the day my touring starting bouncing pretty badly in the front, which was on Monday. But yesterday, temps in the high 20's and today, in the 30's, it's totally fine, as though nothing ever happened. Weird...

[Sockethead]

That is weird... perhaps there is more stiction with the shock oil with the colder temps

[az3579]

That is weird... perhaps there is more stiction with the shock oil with the colder temps

You know the really weird part about it was that I was driving it for the first half of the day without incident. Temps didn't really change much during the day. I went to Chili's to get lunch, then when I got out, it all of a sudden was bouncing like a child in a bouncy castle. It was so sudden...

[DeathTrap]

Has anyone done rear wheel bearings? There is an OEM installation kit on eBay for $150. I would rather buy a more universal tool, but if this would make life easier I can roll with it. I guess I could rent it out as well.

What would the mafia do? OEM tool or Harbor freight kit?

[704sw]

Has anyone done rear wheel bearings? There is an OEM installation kit on eBay for $150. I would rather buy a more universal tool, but if this would make life easier I can roll with it. I guess I could rent it out as well.

What would the mafia do? OEM tool or Harbor freight kit?

Paging @Slater for confirmation, but I believe he said having the right tool makes doing the rear wheel bearings significantly less shitty.

[slater]

Paging @Slater for confirmation, but I believe he said having the right tool makes doing the rear wheel bearings significantly less shitty.

that's my hope - i did one on my black Touring without job-specific tools and it was very shitty.

now that i have one to do on the 335i, i bought a couple of tools to aid in the process. i spent about $200 on tools alone, but if i'm correct then the job should take 1 night instead of 3.

it was one of the least fun wrenching experiences of my life.

if all goes well with the 335i then i'll do a brief how-to write up on it. the process is basically the same between E46 and E90.

[DeathTrap]

that's my hope - i did one on my black Touring without job-specific tools and it was very shitty.

now that i have one to do on the 335i, i bought a couple of tools to aid in the process. i spent about $200 on tools alone, but if i'm correct then the job should take 1 night instead of 3.

it was one of the least fun wrenching experiences of my life.

if all goes well with the 335i then i'll do a brief how-to write up on it. the process is basically the same between E46 and E90.

Ehhhh...I feel that my time is a little bit more valuable than a few bucks. I won the tool. If anyone needs it, I'll post up a rent thread after I test it out.

[ELCID86]

FCP just posted this on why tires lose pressure. I didn't know it was normal for tires to lose one lb per month in constant temp weather.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/why-your-tires-are-losing-pressure?

#TMYK

[ZHPizza]

FCP just posted this on why tires lose pressure. I didn't know it was normal for tires to lose one lb per month in constant temp weather.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/why-your-tires-are-losing-pressure?

#TMYKYup, rubber isn't perfectly air tight so there will always be a few oxygen molecules sneaking through with time.

[stephenkirsh]

More headlight fun. I completely took apart the assembly and redid the wiring.

Now installed, the passenger side won’t go up as high as it used to. I’ve taken off and rechecked assembly of both the headlight assembly and the way it was mounted to the car.

Here’s a photo of each side, with both maxed out as high up they’ll point.

I’m not really sure what else to check. Is it possible to manually adjust the motor that adjusts the vertical aim? Maybe I moved it whole reassembling.


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iPhone shadow on driver side.

[John in VA]

More headlight fun. I completely took apart the assembly and redid the wiring.
Now installed, the passenger side won’t go up as high as it used to. I’ve taken off and rechecked assembly of both the headlight assembly and the way it was mounted to the car.
Here’s a photo of each side, with both maxed out as high up they’ll point.
I’m not really sure what else to check. Is it possible to manually adjust the motor that adjusts the vertical aim? Maybe I moved it whole reassembling.
Did you inadvertently disconnect/break the plastic rod thingie (under the car) that raises the light?

[stephenkirsh]

This is a halogen car. It doesn’t have that and those aren’t a part of the equation. It’s 100% limited to the headlight assembly and the internals.

[nextelbuddy]

This is a halogen car. It doesn’t have that and those aren’t a part of the equation. It’s 100% limited to the headlight assembly and the internals.

did you make sure the actual headlight housings are mounted the same on both sides? that one of your housings isnt doing that weird thing where it did not slide into the mounting bracket on the core support properly? if the actual housing is off even a little, then that will throw your adjustment knobs off also and not match evenly between both sides.

[3ZHP]

A PM question!

Anyone had a fuel pump of fuel filter failure that left you stranded?

I’m at about 175K with the originals and may want to take a long road trip this summer. I’m thinking this may be a good time to at least replace the filter before the drive but, don’t know the expected life on the fuel pump!


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[ZHPizza]

A PM question!

Anyone had a fuel pump of fuel filter failure that left you stranded?

I’m at about 175K with the originals and may want to take a long road trip this summer. I’m thinking this may be a good time to at least replace the filter before the drive but, don’t know the expected life on the fuel pump!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe fuel pump is one of those that could last anywhere from 50k to 300k. Mine thankfully started soft failing with a little stutter while holding a steady rpm on the highway, so I swapped it out and added the M3 fuel tank baffle at the same time.

I bought a backup fuel pump to keep in the trunk of the wife's car on trips as the swap can be done in a parking lot, which is where they're known to leave you when they decide to check out.

[az3579]

A PM question!

Anyone had a fuel pump of fuel filter failure that left you stranded?

I’m at about 175K with the originals and may want to take a long road trip this summer. I’m thinking this may be a good time to at least replace the filter before the drive but, don’t know the expected life on the fuel pump!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've had a fuel pump quit on me once while on the way to somewhere. But, I have "the force" and had a feeling I should order one and keep it in the trunk just in case, considering I had 192k miles on the car at the time. Sure enough, it quit on me. Pulled into a rest stop, had a friend pick me up to go to my event, and replaced the pump on site when on the way home.

Fuel filters probably won't leave you stranded, but it may cause some driveability issues or CELs.



If you haven't replaced your fuel pump yet at this mileage, then I would recommend you buy one and at least keep it in the car. You can replace it roadside with basic tools. Also buy the gasket as well.

[3ZHP]

I've had a fuel pump quit on me once while on the way to somewhere. But, I have "the force" and had a feeling I should order one and keep it in the trunk just in case, considering I had 192k miles on the car at the time. Sure enough, it quit on me. Pulled into a rest stop, had a friend pick me up to go to my event, and replaced the pump on site when on the way home.

Fuel filters probably won't leave you stranded, but it may cause some driveability issues or CELs.



If you haven't replaced your fuel pump yet at this mileage, then I would recommend you buy one and at least keep it in the car. You can replace it roadside with basic tools. Also buy the gasket as well.

Thanks!


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[ELCID86]

I’d go ahead and do it. But BP’s suggestion is a close second.

[Karl Lazlo]

If you haven't replaced your fuel pump yet at this mileage, then I would recommend you buy one and at least keep it in the car. You can replace it roadside with basic tools. Also buy the gasket as well.

Love that story, BTW. Pretty sure that besides putting on new wipers, a FP is the easiest maint item on these cars.

[az3579]

Love that story, BTW. Pretty sure that besides putting on new wipers, a FP is the easiest maint item on these cars.

I can think of some easier things... The cabin air filter, for example!
And the SAP hoses, those are easy too. No tools required. :)

[John in VA]

And the SAP hoses, those are easy too. No tools required. :)
What about the vacuum line to the SAP valve that goes towards the firewall? I haven't looked hard at it, but the valve end is crumbling.

[az3579]

What about the vacuum line to the SAP valve that goes towards the firewall? I haven't looked hard at it, but the valve end is crumbling.

Not sure which one you're referring to... got a pic?

[John in VA]

Not sure which one you're referring to... got a pic?
This is not my photo, but the hose runs from the valve along the passenger's side of the valve cover towards the firewall. The ETK makes you believe it's a short length of vacuum hose - not sure how easy to replace - might need a mirror to see it! If the front/visible portion is crumbling I can't imagine what the back section looks like!

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#4 in the diagram:
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[Vas]

The zhp doesn't have that vacuum line.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

I was going to say, I don't remember seeing that line when I eliminated the SAP and valve

[John in VA]

The zhp doesn't have that vacuum line.
Good to know! This is on the 2000 328i.

[charter21p5]

A PM question!

Anyone had a fuel pump of fuel filter failure that left you stranded?

I’m at about 175K with the originals and may want to take a long road trip this summer. I’m thinking this may be a good time to at least replace the filter before the drive but, don’t know the expected life on the fuel pump!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My original fuel pump died at 150k miles while the car was in my driveway!

It shorted out and was popping fuses.

Definitely replace yours to be safe or keep a spare.

I pretty much replace parts now before they quit working and have been replacing all of the plastic crap parts with metal versions of the same part to significantly increase the reliability of this car.

[az3579]

I was going to say, I don't remember seeing that line when I eliminated the SAP and valve

Yeah I don't recall seeing it on my ZHP and another ZHP I was working on last week either.

[704sw]

Has anyone replaced a windshield gasket/seal before? How difficult was it? I noticed today the one on my old man’s E60 where the roof meets the windshield is drying out.

[fredo]

My first e90 has the same issue since 2010. I believe that's a cosmetic part, I never replaced it. No side effects due to my lack of action. That car is still in my family so I'm positive it's ok.

[az3579]

Has anyone replaced a windshield gasket/seal before? How difficult was it? I noticed today the one on my old man’s E60 where the roof meets the windshield is drying out.

Pretty sure you have to replace the windshield when you do that one.

[sillieidiot]

If you're talking about the actual seal, then yeah gotta take out the windshield to replace. But if it's just the cosmetic rubber portion on top like the E90 then you can replace that. I would just be careful on it. I was doing it on my parents E90. I got it like 90% of the way in then bam windshield cracked lol FML right there. But drove that around for a couple months before the car got totaled so I never had to replace the windshield.

[704sw]

If you're talking about the actual seal, then yeah gotta take out the windshield to replace. But if it's just the cosmetic rubber portion on top like the E90 then you can replace that. I would just be careful on it. I was doing it on my parents E90. I got it like 90% of the way in then bam windshield cracked lol FML right there. But drove that around for a couple months before the car got totaled so I never had to replace the windshield.

Yea it’s just the cosmetic “seal.” Your story has me reconsidering doing it since it’s not *that* bad yet.

[Yankeefan]

I know these pictures don't tell the whole story, but I've got this residue on the front of the engine as you can see. Is there any chance this could be a slow, long-term coolant leak? I ask because I think I have a slow leak, and I have a water pump and thermostat sitting in my garage waiting for me to install. Or is this more likely VANOS or VCG or something? You can see that it's a dark residue (shown here as wiped off with a blue shop rag). Thanks team.
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[Sockethead]

Check your power steering hoses too. Judging by the residue pattern on your thermostat housing, it looks like it's getting flung up from below.

[wstr75]

Is this a ZHP or a ZHP conversion of some sort? The dash dials are orange, but the dash is not typical ZHP. The same goes for the steering wheel. I tried to run the VIN, but the decoder did not give me any output using that number. I'm not interested in the car, just curious.

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?sourc eContext=carGurusHomePageModel&newSearchFromOverviewPage=true&inventorySearchWidgetType=AUTO&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=c22260&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity2=c22261&zip=27203&distance=50000&searchChanged=true&modelChanged=false&filtersModified=true#listing=223535119

[John in VA]

Is this a ZHP or a ZHP conversion of some sort? The dash dials are orange, but the dash is not typical ZHP. The same goes for the steering wheel. I tried to run the VIN, but the decoder did not give me any output using that number. I'm not interested in the car, just curious.
https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/km33207 says it has S767A Performance Package.

[ZHPizza]

Not an e46/ZHP question so I'm totes breaking the rules here, but it is a random ass question.

I'm going to look at a 2013 335is this weekend (because I hate myself) and the girl at the dealership grabbed a few pics before they washed it. This stuff was written on the rear quarter glass. Anyone know BMW dealership processing secrets enough to know what it means (@Sockethead)? It's an N54 engine, so I assume there's something about wastegate rattle in there...

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[DeathTrap]

The ZHP wasn't requiring frequent enough maintenance, huh?

[ZHPizza]

The ZHP wasn't requiring frequent enough maintenance, huh?Pretty much

I drove Peterman's 335i Mtech a few months back and haven't stopped thinking about the low end torque on that N54 and how solid & modern the car felt. The best description I've seen is that the torque on the N54 and N55 comes on so early that it feels like a naturally aspirated V8.

I want

[Sockethead]

Not an e46/ZHP question so I'm totes breaking the rules here, but it is a random ass question.

I'm going to look at a 2013 335is this weekend (because I hate myself) and the girl at the dealership grabbed a few pics before they washed it. This stuff was written on the rear quarter glass. Anyone know BMW dealership processing secrets enough to know what it means (@Sockethead)? It's an N54 engine, so I assume there's something about wastegate rattle in there...

34690

Wife said it looks like the bottom right column might be what they have into the car. They usually fix what ever is broken before selling it.
Every dealer is different though could mean something entirely different.
Is it a BMW dealership?

[ZHPizza]

Wife said it looks like the bottom right column might be what they have into the car. They usually fix what ever is broken before selling it.
Every dealer is different though could mean something entirely different.
Is it a BMW dealership?Good call. It had some little "w" looking marks on different areas of the car too - maybe spots they wanted to hit with touch up or pdr?

It's at Century BMW over in Greenville SC

[Sockethead]

Ok get them to do a key read for the service records.
It should at least show the service done over the life of the factory warranty. If the car was serviced there after that, it will have that additional service record

[ZHPizza]

Ok get them to do a key read for the service records.
It should at least show the service done over the life of the factory warranty. If the car was serviced there after that, it will have that additional service recordNoice thanks brother

[Sockethead]

BTW, don't let anyone scare you away from the N54. It's an amazing engine, I'd rather have an N54 than an N55

[JPMo]

So I get this sound when I pressed the AC button (which I guess turns on the compressor?) its like a creaky, cyclical type sound that is only present when the AC button is pressed. This video is exactly what i'm experiencing.

https://youtu.be/nPqA7dLhaVo

Lots of posts on e46F suggest the blower motor assembly, which to me doesn't make sense if the noise disappears when the AC button is off. Another post suggested low refrigerant but my AC is still cold. Someone else suggested the AC expansion valve (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-rein-parts/a-c-expansion-valve/64503452759~ren/).

What do you all in the mafia think?

[ZHPizza]

So I get this sound when I pressed the AC button (which I guess turns on the compressor?) its like a creaky, cyclical type sound that is only present when the AC button is pressed. This video is exactly what i'm experiencing.

https://youtu.be/nPqA7dLhaVo

Lots of posts on e46F suggest the blower motor assembly, which to me doesn't make sense if the noise disappears when the AC button is off. Another post suggested low refrigerant but my AC is still cold. Someone else suggested the AC expansion valve (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-rein-parts/a-c-expansion-valve/64503452759~ren/).

What do you all in the mafia think?Set it on hella cold and see if there is a difference between the temp of the left and right center vents. If not, then compare the driver and passenger side vents nearest the windows. When the refrigerant gets low, the passenger side vent stops cooling first and then it spreads to the passenger side of the center vent, and so on.

[JPMo]

Set it on hella cold and see if there is a difference between the temp of the left and right center vents. If not, then compare the driver and passenger side vents nearest the windows. When the refrigerant gets low, the passenger side vent stops cooling first and then it spreads to the passenger side of the center vent, and so on.Interesting, I'll definitely try that. Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[JPMo]

Set it on hella cold and see if there is a difference between the temp of the left and right center vents. If not, then compare the driver and passenger side vents nearest the windows. When the refrigerant gets low, the passenger side vent stops cooling first and then it spreads to the passenger side of the center vent, and so on.You know, I think the passenger side vents are slightly warmer but its not much. I think I might do the valve and take it in for some fresh freon. The valve isn't too expensive

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[ZHPizza]

You know, I think the passenger side vents are slightly cooler but its not much. I think I might do the valve and take it in for some fresh freon. The valve isn't too expensive

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk? The passenger side will be less cold if you've got it set on max a/c. I'm talking temperature set to 60, roller on the center vent set to full cold. It's gotta be reasonably warm out to test the a/c though.

I just listened to the video again and confirmed with all the comments underneath that it's the typical low refrigerant sound. You can top it off yourself with some r134a.

[az3579]

I just listened to the video again and confirmed with all the comments underneath that it's the typical low refrigerant sound. You can top it off yourself with some r134a.

Though if it's low, you've probably got a leak and should get that looked at.

[JPMo]

Though if it's low, you've probably got a leak and should get that looked at.

hmm, could it be possible that the AC expansion valve is leaking? Also I'm pretty sure its the original refrigerant from 2004 so is a little bit of loss not expected?


? The passenger side will be less cold if you've got it set on max a/c. I'm talking temperature set to 60, roller on the center vent set to full cold. It's gotta be reasonably warm out to test the a/c though.

I just listened to the video again and confirmed with all the comments underneath that it's the typical low refrigerant sound. You can top it off yourself with some r134a.

Yeah oops, I meant that my passenger side was slightly warmer but it was about 45-50 out so not the best test. Thanks. I think I will get a refrigerant flush soon because that noise is annoying.

[az3579]

hmm, could it be possible that the AC expansion valve is leaking? Also I'm pretty sure its the original refrigerant from 2004 so is a little bit of loss not expected?



Dunno. Never had to do AC service on mine; all original on mine as well, 314k miles. I'm shocked. lol

[ZHPizza]

hmm, could it be possible that the AC expansion valve is leaking? Also I'm pretty sure its the original refrigerant from 2004 so is a little bit of loss not expected?



Yeah oops, I meant that my passenger side was slightly warmer but it was about 45-50 out so not the best test. Thanks. I think I will get a refrigerant flush soon because that noise is annoying.Honestly, and a few people will flip the f out for me suggesting it, I'd throw in a can of this stop leak/dye and maybe one whole can of this r134a.

Interdynamics IDQ Automotive A/C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO9IBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3 Cans R-134a DuPont Suva A/C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WXBYYR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This stuff isn't like your grandpa's stop-leak that was basically concrete made to plug pinhole leaks in radiators and shit. It's just a dye (to help you find the leaks) and a rubber conditioner (to help shrunken seals swell back up). I've now used it on four 10+ year old cars, including both of my e46's, with great results.

If it's a leak due to an old shrunken o-ring, then this will fix it. If it's a leak due to a hole in your evaporator, then this will help you find it.

[Yankeefan]

When I replace my water pump and thermostat, what is the proper way to drain all of the current coolant? From the bottom of the radiator? Also, the vehicle currently has green coolant, and I will be replacing that with BOM coolant (blue?) from FCP Euro. How crucial is it that I get every drop of the old stuff out? If there's a little bit left will they mix and do something weird? Seems like I've read somewhere that if you mix different colors of coolant then they will gunk up.

[az3579]

When I replace my water pump and thermostat, what is the proper way to drain all of the current coolant? From the bottom of the radiator? Also, the vehicle currently has green coolant, and I will be replacing that with BOM coolant (blue?) from FCP Euro. How crucial is it that I get every drop of the old stuff out? If there's a little bit left will they mix and do something weird? Seems like I've read somewhere that if you mix different colors of coolant then they will gunk up.


Drain the radiator as well as the block. There is a drain plug for coolant directly on the block, on the passenger side above the front axle.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/ajax.php

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Only use BMW coolant. It's not a problem if there are "few drops" of the old stuff in there; as long as it's not a considerable amount you're fine.
Be sure to mix the BMW coolant 50/50 with distilled water as it's not pre-mixed.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/ajax.php
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjW-cTJh9DgAhWCxIMKHad9DqAQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhacknik.blogspot.com%2F2013%2F03% 2Fdiy-m54-cooling-system-refresh.html&psig=AOvVaw3Rk_VSEe_hKXg7HK-WNKfd&ust=1550949557220113

[John in VA]

I'm not familiar with BOM coolant, but pulling the lower radiator hose with get most coolant out. You could reattach the hose, add distilled water or coolant flush (Liqui Moly makes some), run it awhile & drain it again as per instructions. BMW, M-B, the proper Zerex (G05 or G48) or Rowe coolant is fine. Green Prestone won't cause any problems mixed as DexCool would.

[papa_g]

Yes you can drain from the bottom of the radiator (the blue plastic screw), but this will not get the old stuff out of the block. You can actually release the bolt on the bottom of the block to get the old stuff from the block as well. Not sure how to describe its location, but you have to get under the block obviously. I found it pretty easily doing a quick search.
I would do a full on flush if I were you. It's annoying and tedious, but easy, and worth getting out all the incorrect coolant and any sediment that has built up. Buy a few gallon jugs of distilled or deionized water and run it through the engine a few times until the liquid you are draining out is relatively clear. Then put in the new blue stuff.
I have also read that you shouldn't mix different spec coolants. I would say try to get as much of it out as you can, but keep in mind you will never get 100% of it out, since there will always be a percentage left over in the block, no matter how many flushes you do.
I just did a flush on our VW. It has no petcock, so you actually have to actually undo the radiator hoses. PITA

[Yankeefan]

Thanks for the advice guys. I’ll do a water flush then and get as much as I can out.

[ComradeNick]

Where does everyone leave their phones in their cars? I don’t like leaving mine in the cup holder because that’s where cups go, and the spot inside in the armrest that’s meant for it is too small for any phone newer than an iPhone 5. I’ve been putting it in the compartment in the back of the rest but it’s fallen out into the back seat numerous times. I have the wire routed under my shift knob right now and I’m going to route it to somewhere usable once I get a new phone so I’m trying to decide where to create a dock for it.


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[704sw]

Where does everyone leave their phones in their cars? I don’t like leaving mine in the cup holder because that’s where cups go, and the spot inside in the armrest that’s meant for it is too small for any phone newer than an iPhone 5. I’ve been putting it in the compartment in the back of the rest but it’s fallen out into the back seat numerous times. I have the wire routed under my shift knob right now and I’m going to route it to somewhere usable once I get a new phone so I’m trying to decide where to create a dock for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use two phone cases. My kinda grippy silicone case I haven’t put a magnet on yet so I lay it horizontally as shown in red below (grippy is very important for that location). My other case has the magnet and it goes on my Bimmian mount (which is one of my favorite mods)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190226/4942330dc90b39ae49c26b1316d66d6c.jpg

[ComradeNick]

I use two phone cases. My kinda grippy silicone case I haven’t put a magnet on yet so I lay it horizontally as shown in red below (grippy is very important for that location). My other case has the magnet and it goes on my Bimmian mount (which is one of my favorite mods)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190226/4942330dc90b39ae49c26b1316d66d6c.jpg

Hmm a mount might be a good idea, I already have an android head unit so I wouldn’t need the functionality of the mount but maybe a discrete one somewhere in the back could work.


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[johnrando]

Bimmian mount

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[3LiterStraightSix]

I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[Fenrir]

I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using TapatalkThis is the most correct statement lol.

When I'm not dropping it in the passenger seat I use a vent mount.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[nextelbuddy]

I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

same lol sometimes i close the thigh support all the way and i wedge the phone in the thigh support seat cushion slit. keeps it from moving around.

[PetesZ]

I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

Ditto

[az3579]

I hardly drive with passengers so i just lay it sideways where the thigh support opens [emoji14]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk


This is the most correct statement lol.

When I'm not dropping it in the passenger seat I use a vent mount.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk


same lol sometimes i close the thigh support all the way and i wedge the phone in the thigh support seat cushion slit. keeps it from moving around.


Ditto

If you're not mounting it, why not just keep it in your pocket? lol

[704sw]

If you're not mounting it, why not just keep it in your pocket? lol

Maybe it’s just me/the way I sit, but my phone digs into my hip during clutch engagement. And I’ve been keeping my phone in my left pocket for over half my life now, so switching sides just isn’t happening lol

[Fenrir]

Maybe it’s just me/the way I sit, but my phone digs into my hip during clutch engagement. And I’ve been keeping my phone in my left pocket for over half my life now, so switching sides just isn’t happening lolPretty much sums it up for me lol.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[ZHP_Brandon]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190302/f54d39a415a9cbe5b5de1f579b29299a.jpg Anyone know what this is and where it goes? In removing my door panels it fell from the door and I can’t figure out where it goes


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[3LiterStraightSix]

Maybe it’s just me/the way I sit, but my phone digs into my hip during clutch engagement. And I’ve been keeping my phone in my left pocket for over half my life now, so switching sides just isn’t happening lolThis, coupled with the fact that I don't want an aux cord traveling over my shifter and then into my pocket...

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[Chaplian]

SNIP Anyone know what this is and where it goes? In removing my door panels it fell from the door and I can’t figure out where it goes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think I have ever seen that clip in the door assemblies, and I can't find anything on RealOEM resembling it either. Have your doors been apart before? It looks like the hanger clip for my drills/impacts.

[3LiterStraightSix]

I don't think I have ever seen that clip in the door assemblies, and I can't find anything on RealOEM resembling it either. Have your doors been apart before? It looks like the hanger clip for my drills/impacts.That's exactly what it looks like!! Straight off a Dewalt

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[704sw]

This, coupled with the fact that I don't want an aux cord traveling over my shifter and then into my pocket...

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

That too. The cord getting tangled with the shifter is why I relocated the aux from the sunglasses bin to the glovebox.

I also found the M3 seats don’t hold my phone in the thigh slot as well as my old sport seats. Maybe it’s my phone case, maybe it’s the smoother Nappa Leather, maybe the slot is deeper on sport seats, I’m not sure, but it’s what prompted me to get the Bimmian mount.

[az3579]

Aux is so 2005. [emoji23]
Bluetooth! Wireless FTW!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[ZHP_Brandon]

I don't think I have ever seen that clip in the door assemblies, and I can't find anything on RealOEM resembling it either. Have your doors been apart before? It looks like the hanger clip for my drills/impacts.


That's exactly what it looks like!! Straight off a Dewalt

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk



Okay so the jig is up, I’m dummer than I look lmfao that’s EXACTLY what it was..... safe to say I’ve had a longgggg week at work lol


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[Prestovie]

Any ideas on why I may be experiencing a concerning squeak coming from the trunk/rear end of my car when going over larger bumps and potholes? It's been too cold in the Chicago area for me to actually jack up the rear and investigate, hoping for nicer weather this weekend.
I know it's probably something to do with the suspension, but I can't help shake the constant thoughts of it being a subframe issue.

[ComradeNick]

Any ideas on why I may be experiencing a concerning squeak coming from the trunk/rear end of my car when going over larger bumps and potholes? It's been too cold in the Chicago area for me to actually jack up the rear and investigate, hoping for nicer weather this weekend.
I know it's probably something to do with the suspension, but I can't help shake the constant thoughts of it being a subframe issue.

My suspension also tends to squeak going over bumps, it’s not too loud considering I don’t have any sound deadening in the back. Hopefully that’s normal.


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[ZHPizza]

Where does everyone leave their phones in their cars? I don’t like leaving mine in the cup holder because that’s where cups go, and the spot inside in the armrest that’s meant for it is too small for any phone newer than an iPhone 5. I’ve been putting it in the compartment in the back of the rest but it’s fallen out into the back seat numerous times. I have the wire routed under my shift knob right now and I’m going to route it to somewhere usable once I get a new phone so I’m trying to decide where to create a dock for it.


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I still don't have a great place to put my phone either. I usually throw it in the cupholder for easy access as I tend to be pretty textually active at stop lights, but it flops around and annoys the hell out of me.

I stuck these on either side of the center console in my last car and they were perfect for holding phones secure and within reach. I've been meaning to try them on the e46 console for....3 years now?

https://ebay.us/5BUYtn


Aux is so 2005. [emoji23]
Bluetooth! Wireless FTW!

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Says the man with no headphone jack on his phone...

I hate that they got rid of it on the Pixels the year after mocking Apple for removing it from the iPhones. Bluetooth is still trash sound quality compared to an aux.

[Prestovie]

My suspension also tends to squeak going over bumps, it’s not too loud considering I don’t have any sound deadening in the back. Hopefully that’s normal.


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Alright well that's good to hear, I tend to overanalyze every new noise that comes out of my ZHP, but then with my truck I just turn up the radio :biggrin

[az3579]

Says the man with no headphone jack on his phone...

Yeah, and? I haven't used a 3.5mm audio jack in years. :p

It bugs me that Google went this route too, because despite never using it, I'd like to have the option. Words can't describe how much I hate Apple as a company for setting the trends everyone else blindly follows. You can thank them for flagship phones that cost a grand now, when the reality is that it costs them no more than $400 to make a phone.


Bluetooth is still trash sound quality compared to an aux.

In a car, there is no discernible difference. Unless it's a Rolls Royce with unmatched sound deadening, it will sound exactly the same between aux and Bluetooth.

[NYRhockey]

Any ideas on why I may be experiencing a concerning squeak coming from the trunk/rear end of my car when going over larger bumps and potholes? It's been too cold in the Chicago area for me to actually jack up the rear and investigate, hoping for nicer weather this weekend.
I know it's probably something to do with the suspension, but I can't help shake the constant thoughts of it being a subframe issue.

Not in the zhp, but a previous card i had (Saturn Sky) would sound like an old mattress when going over bumps while driving in the winter, then as soon as it warmed up (the weather, not the car) it went away. Had it checked out and was told it was the sway bar bushings, fwiw.

[ComradeNick]

Yeah, and? I haven't used a 3.5mm audio jack in years. :p

It bugs me that Google went this route too, because despite never using it, I'd like to have the option. Words can't describe how much I hate Apple as a company for setting the trends everyone else blindly follows. You can thank them for flagship phones that cost a grand now, when the reality is that it costs them no more than $400 to make a phone.



In a car, there is no discernible difference. Unless it's a Rolls Royce with unmatched sound deadening, it will sound exactly the same between aux and Bluetooth.

That’s definitely not the case, even in a car you can easily tell the diff between old style Bluetooth and a hardwire. Even on a 2017 accord I used to drive the difference was very noticeable. Even on my eonon Bluetooth vs Spotify directly from the head unit is much lower quality.



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[ComradeNick]

Who's plasti- dipped their interior, which material did you use? Most of what ive seen is the regular name brand plastidip while others are saying SEM is better.

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[papa_g]

Who's plasti- dipped their interior, which material did you use? Most of what ive seen is the regular name brand plastidip while others are saying SEM is better.

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I did my center console and tray with Plastidip and am pretty happy with the results. The back portion with the ashtray peeled real quick though because my daughter likes to kick her feet around indiscriminately. Otherwise, everything holding together very nicely. I'll have to wait til the summer to see how it does in the heat.

[John in VA]

SEM Color Coat is a more permanent solution - can't be peeled off like Plasti-dip.
https://www.semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-aerosols/15013

[NYRhockey]

With the battery nearing 10 years old it's time for a new one this spring. Is that something you just call AAA over and get you a new one, or a specific brand is better?