The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[704sw]

Is this wheel legit? Its hawt

33623
https://www.ebay.com/i/112985506012?chn=ps

I can tell you in a couple weeks. I bought this one from the same seller a week or two ago (same one minus the witness mark at 12:00)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/b6fa0f45de77d2c812d82d3289abdc5a.png

[JPMo]

I can tell you in a couple weeks. I bought this one from the same seller a week or two ago (same one minus the witness mark at 12:00)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/b6fa0f45de77d2c812d82d3289abdc5a.png

lol cool. good lookin out!

[joeybananaz18]

I’m in the process of putting on a new seat cover on my drivers seat. So far so good, but I’m stuck on trying to remove the black plastic tubes that the pegs from the headdresses go into. Anyone have insight into this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

I’m in the process of putting on a new seat cover on my drivers seat. So far so good, but I’m stuck on trying to remove the black plastic tubes that the pegs from the headdresses go into. Anyone have insight into this.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkOh man those things are a sumbitch for sure. You have to squeeze the shit out of them on the bottom side to compress the tabs that lock them in. I think I have some loose of you need pics.

[joeybananaz18]

Oh man those things are a sumbitch for sure. You have to squeeze the shit out of them on the bottom side to compress the tabs that lock them in. I think I have some loose of you need pics.

Yaaaaaas I have the seat back off and I can see it look like there are 3 separate tabs. Any pics would be incredibly helpful.

Also, what have people done with all the grommets that keep the cover attached to the foam? I did the seat bottom and re-affixed three on either side plus the ones in the middle. Just curious to know how many people put back on or if they do anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Yaaaaaas I have the seat back off and I can see it look like there are 3 separate tabs. Any pics would be incredibly helpful.

Also, what have people done with all the grommets that keep the cover attached to the foam? I did the seat bottom and re-affixed three on either side plus the ones in the middle. Just curious to know how many people put back on or if they do anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHere you go dude. You have to reach up there with some pliers and mash the shit out of the tab that I'm pointing to. Also have to crush the tabs on the bottom of the post with the locking mechanism. Make sure the headrest + posts are removed first.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/e93903c84bdb8e3d77065507f6d44d4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/65c5668929f31e3a70d197cd85f41347.jpg

[joeybananaz18]

Here you go dude. You have to reach up there with some pliers and mash the shit out of the tab that I'm pointing to. Also have to crush the tabs on the bottom of the post with the locking mechanism. Make sure the headrest + posts are removed first.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/e93903c84bdb8e3d77065507f6d44d4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/65c5668929f31e3a70d197cd85f41347.jpg

Ooooooooh gotcha I was only squeezing the tabs on the bottom. Perfect I’ll give that a try. Thanks so much!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nextelbuddy]

Yaaaaaas I have the seat back off and I can see it look like there are 3 separate tabs. Any pics would be incredibly helpful.

Also, what have people done with all the grommets that keep the cover attached to the foam? I did the seat bottom and re-affixed three on either side plus the ones in the middle. Just curious to know how many people put back on or if they do anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

grommets? you mean hog rings? you can try to save yours by using needle nose pliers to OPEN them up.. i was able to reuse most of mine. i also had purchased a set of new hog rings on amazon along with hog ring pliars.



what ever you do be careful working with the seat frames. they are super sharp and with the amount of FORCE you will be exerting trying to push/pull/squeeze things around... you are sure to just "slip" and slice your hand/fingers pretty bad.

[joeybananaz18]

grommets? you mean hog rings? you can try to save yours by using needle nose pliers to OPEN them up.. i was able to reuse most of mine. i also had purchased a set of new hog rings on amazon along with hog ring pliars.



what ever you do be careful working with the seat frames. they are super sharp and with the amount of FORCE you will be exerting trying to push/pull/squeeze things around... you are sure to just "slip" and slice your hand/fingers pretty bad.

Ahhh yes hog rings! i knew i wasn't using the right term. I been reusing as many as I could. Such a pain in the ass tho.
Pizza that pic was perfect i really helped me know what i was mashing because you end up working in such a tight spot. It's hard to get plier up where you need them. I now have a completely dismantled driver's seat. I would have loved to stay out there a do some more work tonight but it was already hot and parking the car in the garage only drove temps up even higher. Hopefully I'll have some pics of a finished seat tomorrow.

[holyc0w]

My front driver's side window started popping/crunching. I've read about the zip-tie fix. Does that work in most situations? Is it best to replace the window regulator?

[Sockethead]

IMO I'd just replace it... who wants to take the door apart twice....

[holyc0w]

I don't even want to do it once. What are the tools required? I'm guessing it's not too bad of a DIY?

[John in VA]

It's not bad - plastic trim tools, Torx driver, ratchet & sockets, razor blade, butyl caulk rope.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=356847
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=939039
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2152551-Window-Regulators-Go-Cheap-or-OEM&p=28233751#post28233751
http://regulatorfix.com/

[holyc0w]

Thanks

Are there any other parts needed other than the regulators?

FCP seems to have one of the lowest prices on the genuine regulators.

[John in VA]

Thanks
Are there any other parts needed other than the regulators?
FCP seems to have one of the lowest prices on the genuine regulators.
Purchasing from FCP will mean it's the last one you'll buy as long as they have the free replacement. I've been able to remove the vapor barrier without damaging it by using a single-edged razor blade to help separate it from the butyl caulk when stubborn. Heating the butyl caulk strip with a heat gun or hair dryer before pressing the barrier back into position will help the barrier re-adhere to the caulk.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Hey guys so.... my center support bearing decided to take a dump lol

I’m thinking I’ll be replacing 02 Sensors while I’m down there, but is there anything else I can do while I’m under there that I’m not thinking about?

AND.... ecstuning has a Univ. Flex Disc kit, am I better off just buying the support bearing and the guibo/flex disc and only replacing that?
Or is everything in there kit worth replacing?


Thanks in advance guys!

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/universal-flex-disc-kit/26117511454kt/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsrLp3dze3AIViVYNCh2utgQ-EAQYASABEgIjzPD_BwE




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Yelkos]

Makes sense to do both while you have it apart.
on my old E39, i replaced the Guibo and had to pull it all back apart the do the support bearing 2 months later.

[Sockethead]

I'd get the kit... you don't want to have to drop the drive shaft twice. That's the same kit I used a couple of months ago
The O2 sensors that matter are at the top og the manifolds and are removed under the hood. The secondary Os sensors are for catalytic converter function and rarely go bad...

[holyc0w]

Is it possible to change the window regulator without having the airbag light come on? I think I read it's possible. The video I watched had the person using the regulator to get the window in the right position to get to the 2 screws/bolts, and then again when putting it back together. Is there a way to avoid that?

[az3579]

Is it possible to change the window regulator without having the airbag light come on? I think I read it's possible. The video I watched had the person using the regulator to get the window in the right position to get to the 2 screws/bolts, and then again when putting it back together. Is there a way to avoid that?

Just disconnect the battery and let it sit for 10 or so minutes, then do the job. If you have to reconnect the battery, make sure to plug the airbag back in before you do and you shouldn't have any issues.

[holyc0w]

Just disconnect the battery and let it sit for 10 or so minutes, then do the job. If you have to reconnect the battery, make sure to plug the airbag back in before you do and you shouldn't have any issues.

Including safety?

Just trying to make this fool-proof.

[az3579]

Including safety?

Just trying to make this fool-proof.

Not sure what you mean.

[Sockethead]

last time I changed the regulator, I didn't disconnect the battery. All was well and no light. You don't have to remove the air bag from the door to do the regulator.

[holyc0w]

Not sure what you mean.

I won't get blasted by the airbag.


last time I changed the regulator, I didn't disconnect the battery. All was well and no light. You don't have to remove the air bag from the door to do the regulator.

Good to know

[BADCLOWN]

I searched here and can’t find the info: does it matter what year the dead pedal comes out of regarding the M3? I want one for the ZHP

[ZHPizza]

I searched here and can’t find the info: does it matter what year the dead pedal comes out of regarding the M3? I want one for the ZHPI think you have to buy a special one for the sedan iirc

[holyc0w]

Sounds right

I think a few of the sedan people here got the coupe one and the fitment wasn't right.

[danewilson77]

I've never had it come on. You'll have to manage the battery connection as you complete the job. Ensure the battery is disconnected when the airbag is disconnected.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[nextelbuddy]

I searched here and can’t find the info: does it matter what year the dead pedal comes out of regarding the M3? I want one for the ZHP

You have to buy the sedan specific ///M dead pedal the one from the coop is too short and will not meet up with your door jamb sill plate

[BADCLOWN]

Anybody have the European connection? Lol

[az3579]

I won't get blasted by the airbag.


The airbag will not go off unless one of the crash sensors goes off. I would imagine BMW would also have logic to require the vehicle to be moving but I don't know about that. Also remember that you're nowhere near the airbag when you apply power to it. Just don't disconnect it with power applied or reconnect it with power active and you'll be fine and won't get a light.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Anybody have the European connection? Lol

Try Sreten. He seems to be good at finding rare things all across Europe.

[joeybananaz18]

I won't get blasted by the airbag.


I can sympathize here. For whatever reason I have an overly cautious fear of airbags. So much so, I didn't have the balls to swap out my steering wheel.

[ZHPizza]

Has anyone else tried a sprint booster on a car with a taller diff and tune? I have a 3.38 and shark tune and the sprint booster makes it jumpy to the point that I don't like having it on at all.

[John in VA]

last time I changed the regulator, I didn't disconnect the battery. All was well and no light. You don't have to remove the air bag from the door to do the regulator.
This ^ - just drape or tape it out of the way. If you turn the car on with the airbag disconnected (to move the regulator's position to be able to attach the window, for example) you'll set off the SRS light. I used a spare battery & leads to connect to the regulator motor to move the regulator to avoid the dreaded light!

[Sockethead]

Has anyone else tried a sprint booster on a car with a taller diff and tune? I have a 3.38 and shark tune and the sprint booster makes it jumpy to the point that I don't like having it on at all.
I had one on my car with 3.15, Dinan stage 3 tune and headers. I really liked it before I got the headers but once the headers were installed, the car had enough torque to make the sprint booster unnecessary IMO

[Sockethead]

This ^ - just drape or tape it out of the way. If you turn the car on with the airbag disconnected (to move the regulator's position to be able to attach the window, for example) you'll set off the SRS light. I used a spare battery & leads to connect to the regulator motor to move the regulator to avoid the dreaded light!
I don't think I even disconnected the air bag IIRC. Like BP said, the air isn't going to go off unless voltage is applied to it

[ZHPizza]

I had one on my car with 3.15, Dinan stage 3 tune and headers. I really liked it before I got the headers but once the headers were installed, the car had enough torque to make the sprint booster unnecessary IMOOk that's where I'm at too. I think it would be great without either the tune or diff, but 1st gear is already touchy as hell with those two. I guess I'll hold off on the sport button mod until I decide if I'm ever going to use this thing.

[Sockethead]

Yep, I ended up selling my sprint booster with the un-modded M3 button assy. to another member

[johnrando]

Has anyone else tried a sprint booster on a car with a taller diff and tune? I have a 3.38 and shark tune and the sprint booster makes it jumpy to the point that I don't like having it on at all.I hv SB w AA tune and now w a supercharger (SC). Still love it. Did you try the medium setting? I still have mine on red (full) even with the SC.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Has anyone else tried a sprint booster on a car with a taller diff and tune? I have a 3.38 and shark tune and the sprint booster makes it jumpy to the point that I don't like having it on at all.

Yeah I've tried it on a 3.07 diff car and hated it. The throttle is way too touchy in all modes, and doesn't actually do anything that your foot can't solve by just pressing down on the pedal more.

[johnrando]

Yeah I've tried it on a 3.07 diff car and hated it. The throttle is way too touchy in all modes, and doesn't actually do anything that your foot can't solve by just pressing down on the pedal more.Definitely not my experience, esp the 'just pressing your foot down'. I get that it's not for everyone, but there is a difference. Ask anyone who's driven my car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Definitely not my experience either. I really liked it with just the tune and mild diff ratio upgrade. I left it on the second setting

[BADCLOWN]

What adhesive did you use to reglue your pillar trim fabric?

[az3579]

Definitely not my experience, esp the 'just pressing your foot down'. I get that it's not for everyone, but there is a difference. Ask anyone who's driven my car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I've driven your car, remember? :)

'Putting your foot down more' is really all the unit does according to all the graphs. It just takes the full pedal range and condenses it to a smaller pedal travel zone. But, its behavior is essentially the same as 'putting your foot down more'.

Here's the proof:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjm5aLrm-PcAhXChOAKHQEoBIQQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.autoaficionadoinc.com%2Fprod ucts%2Fsprint-booster-throttle-remapper-for-bmw-e36-e46-3-series-automatic-trans-no-m-models-1990-2006&psig=AOvVaw3dGvIQjg8F1V0FZQJ6md3Y&ust=153401566090748833654

[ZHP_Brandon]

I'd get the kit... you don't want to have to drop the drive shaft twice. That's the same kit I used a couple of months ago
The O2 sensors that matter are at the top og the manifolds and are removed under the hood. The secondary Os sensors are for catalytic converter function and rarely go bad...


Sweet, just figured out what 02’s I’ll be replacing indefinitely then thanks!

And I keep being told by buddy’s of mine that all the hardware can be reused and I’ve read across the E39, M3, and E46F that no one buys new hardware for the Driveshaft or Giubo?

The two things in question in the kit for me are the 1. Threaded Ring & Clamp & 2. Driveshaft Centering Sleeve. Are they really necessary or am I just buying things that they through in the kit for no reason?

Thanks a bunch!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

And I keep being told by buddy’s of mine that all the hardware can be reused and I’ve read across the E39, M3, and E46F that no one buys new hardware for the Driveshaft or Giubo?

The two things in question in the kit for me are the 1. Threaded Ring & Clamp & 2. Driveshaft Centering Sleeve. Are they really necessary or am I just buying things that they through in the kit for no reason?

Thanks a bunch!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought that same kit (or maybe one identical from FCP, I can’t remember), and that centering sleeve is still sitting on my shelf. I’ll have to refresh my memory, but I think those two items don’t apply to our driveshafts?

Regarding the hardware: technically it is single use. I replaced mine because I figured “hey it’s 13 years old, might as well.” I’ve since removed the driveshaft a second time and simply used blue loctite when reattaching.

[ZHP_Brandon]

I bought that same kit (or maybe one identical from FCP, I can’t remember), and that centering sleeve is still sitting on my shelf. I’ll have to refresh my memory, but I think those two items don’t apply to our driveshafts?

Regarding the hardware: technically it is single use. I replaced mine because I figured “hey it’s 13 years old, might as well.” I’ve since removed the driveshaft a second time and simply used blue loctite when reattaching.

That’s a good rule of thumb, I’ll keep some blue loctite around for the job. I think I’ll stay with the old hardware in this case
& yeah the two extra items to me seem so silly, Ecs is selling the full kit for 125$, yet FCP if added separately into my cart without hardware has a total of 70$ [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Didn't say your driveshaft center bearing failed? If that's the case that could of affected the centering bearing. A worn out guibo or center bearing could cause excessive wear on the centering bearing. It would suck if you had a new vibration after getting everything back together...

[fredo]

Definitely not my experience, esp the 'just pressing your foot down'. I get that it's not for everyone, but there is a difference. Ask anyone who's driven my car.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I'm a believer: I drove Rando's car a couple of years ago. Sprint Booster FTW !

[johnrando]

BP, I know you have, I was messing with you. :)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ELCID86]

IMO I'd just replace it... who wants to take the door apart twice....

Yep. Perhaps install zip ties as PM on new lift.
Get some new butyl tape to reinstall the rain/moisture barrier.

[ELCID86]

last time I changed the regulator, I didn't disconnect the battery. All was well and no light. You don't have to remove the air bag from the door to do the regulator.

Right. Just hang it with a zip tie and leave connected. As far as safety, I think your fine unless you hit the door with extreme force!

[joeybananaz18]

So I picked up a performance air intake off e46fanatics a couple of weeks ago. I had some time today to install it. it was also my first time giving it a proper inspection. I found out that the previous owner cut a hole in the bottom of the air box, similar to that of the dinan air box. I'm waiting to hear back from him on this, but i can only assume his intention was to run a flexible tube down to the brake ducts and get more air into it. If i decide to finish up this job, would i see any difference in performance or sound?

If i decide against it i'll just patch it up.

[704sw]

Maybe a dumb question, but how bad is this? Date codes on all 4 are between March and August of 2015, and this is present on all 4 tires.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/d127f366037adbcad50c8c3be263faff.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/f2b2fc1375fb0eb097eeb094d9d311cc.jpg

[az3579]

Fine for street driving.
Wouldn't use it on the track though.

I think tires are good for 6 years or something like that.
Maybe a dumb question, but how bad is this? Date codes on all 4 are between March and August of 2015, and this is present on all 4 tires.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/d127f366037adbcad50c8c3be263faff.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180812/f2b2fc1375fb0eb097eeb094d9d311cc.jpg

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Newjack]

I have those marks on the front tires on the 135. It's from rubbing though. (Doesn't rub anymore)

[704sw]

Fine for street driving.
Wouldn't use it on the track though.

I think tires are good for 6 years or something like that.

Thanks, BP. These are my street tires/wheels so I’ll keep them exclusively that way.


I have those marks on the front tires on the 135. It's from rubbing though. (Doesn't rub anymore)

Mine aren’t from rubbing, I assume they’re from driving all last winter on performance summer tires.

[Newjack]

Thanks, BP. These are my street tires/wheels so I’ll keep them exclusively that way.



Mine aren’t from rubbing, I assume they’re from driving all last winter on performance summer tires.

PERFORMANCE ALL THE TIME

[704sw]

PERFORMANCE ALL THE TIME

PERFORMANCE ICE SLIDES ON PERFORMANCE HOCKEY PUCKS!!!

[az3579]

PERFORMANCE ICE SLIDES ON PERFORMANCE HOCKEY PUCKS!!!

There's a new line of tires from Michelin for that.
Pilot Super Pucks

[704sw]

What adhesive did you use to reglue your pillar trim fabric?

I used (and believe others have as well) 3M Super 77. Picked it up at Wally World.

https://www.govgroup.com/images_products/2170632_large.jpg

[holyc0w]

Yep. Perhaps install zip ties as PM on new lift.
Get some new butyl tape to reinstall the rain/moisture barrier.

I think I'll do that. Got some butyl tape as well. I think I'll be ready on Saturday.

[ZHP_Brandon]

Didn't say your driveshaft center bearing failed? If that's the case that could of affected the centering bearing. A worn out guibo or center bearing could cause excessive wear on the centering bearing. It would suck if you had a new vibration after getting everything back together...

Well I plan on replacing the entire center bearing assembly (including the bearing), the driveshaft flex disc (giubo) so does that cover everything?

And we’ll while I’m down there, I’ve never addressed the transmission and motor mounts. I’ve heard of people going for the M3 transmission mounts, should I go M3 or UUC poly Black mounts instead? The car just gets daily driven, never seen a track and I can’t say I plan on it for now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Well I plan on replacing the entire center bearing assembly (including the bearing), the driveshaft flex disc (giubo) so does that cover everything?

And we’ll while I’m down there, I’ve never addressed the transmission and motor mounts. I’ve heard of people going for the M3 transmission mounts, should I go M3 or UUC poly Black mounts instead? The car just gets daily driven, never seen a track and I can’t say I plan on it for now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

M3 rubber. I added poly and removed them a week later. So much NVH I couldn’t handle it, and I’m already more tolerant to NVH than most.

[ZHP_Brandon]

M3 rubber. I added poly and removed them a week later. So much NVH I couldn’t handle it, and I’m already more tolerant to NVH than most.

Lol perfect answer, I find my brothers turbo M3 very harsh it’s poly everything [emoji854]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

I had UUC black rubber trans mounts but just discovered after 8 years that they are fluid filled after finding pancake syrup like fluid on the garage floor. Will be switching to M3

[nextelbuddy]

M3 rubber. I added poly and removed them a week later. So much NVH I couldn’t handle it, and I’m already more tolerant to NVH than most.

why is it I see more non M people complain about NVH than M cars owners?

i read both groups and forums and I cant recall the last time I saw someone in an M3 group say they cant stand the NVH from some mounts... but go into the non M groups and its more common to see that complaint.

[az3579]

why is it I see more non M people complain about NVH than M cars owners?

i read both groups and forums and I cant recall the last time I saw someone in an M3 group say they cant stand the NVH from some mounts... but go into the non M groups and its more common to see that complaint.


Because those mounts are designed to work in the M cars and not the non-M ones. lol

[nextelbuddy]

Because those mounts are designed to work in the M cars and not the non-M ones. lol

theres no difference between non M chassis and M chassis in regards to the mounts other than the rubber used. the engines albeit different in non M.. all use the same alloys in their subframes, mount arms, cross members, nuts bolts unibody.....

i dont see any reason for a non M owner to care more about NVH over an M owner other than a perception thing where they have purchased a NON M and expect non M noise and vibrations...

which is fine but when you track your car that seems a little odd to me lol.

[704sw]

theres no difference between non M chassis and M chassis in regards to the mounts other than the rubber used. the engines albeit different in non M.. all use the same alloys in their subframes, mount arms, cross members, nuts bolts unibody.....

i dont see any reason for a non M owner to care more about NVH over an M owner other than a perception thing where they have purchased a NON M and expect non M noise and vibrations...

which is fine but when you track your car that seems a little odd to me lol.

I think my issue with poly tranny mounts was not pairing them with poly engine mounts. It felt weird (unbalanced maybe is the right word?), and made quite a rumble in the car. It wasn’t loud, but the shifter shook a bit.

The reason I say I’m more tolerant to NVH than most is because I’m single, no kids, seldom have passengers, and track my car. Meaning I have nobody in the car to make comfortable. My car drones, it’s stiff, it’s not quiet in the car, and my brakes squeal like a mofo. And while I really liked the crisp feeling of the poly tranny bushings it just wasn’t something I wanted to live with every day during the weeks or months between my track days.

[az3579]

theres no difference between non M chassis and M chassis in regards to the mounts other than the rubber used. the engines albeit different in non M.. all use the same alloys in their subframes, mount arms, cross members, nuts bolts unibody.....

The engines and transmissions being different is reason enough to use a different material, hence a different feeling in the car. Harmonics are engineered very precisely with the manufacturer.



i dont see any reason for a non M owner to care more about NVH over an M owner other than a perception thing where they have purchased a NON M and expect non M noise and vibrations...

Apples and oranges. Different drivetrains = different results = different expectations.



Also, non-M owners tend to have different requirements than M owners as far as what is acceptable in a daily driver. I'm sure there's a higher percentage of M3 owners who track their cars compared to 330 owners who do... what I see at the track every time tells me this.

[ZHPizza]

The wife's touring pulls to the left under braking, but doesn't pull at all during normal driving. I'd guess a suspension component was at fault, but the front left rotor is wearing down faster and that wheel dusts up significantly worse than the other three -- to the point that I suspected a stuck caliper.

So do I have, like, one really beefed up caliber trying to outlift all the other caliper bros?

Edit: Thinking now that it's a sticking right caliper that won't close enough and the left is doing all of the braking

[danewilson77]

The wife's touring pulls to the left under braking, but doesn't pull at all during normal driving. I'd guess a suspension component was at fault, but the front left rotor is wearing down faster and that wheel dusts up significantly worse than the other three -- to the point that I suspected a stuck caliper.

So do I have, like, one really beefed up caliber trying to outlift all the other caliper bros?

Edit: Thinking now that it's a sticking right caliper that won't close enough and the left is doing all of the brakingLast brake fluid flush? On last brake job, were the caliper guide pins inspected and lubed?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[YoitsTmac]

In regards to UUC transmission bushings, I had some paired to M3 motor mounts. There was a little vibration at idle. The “deal breaker” for some is that at around 1800rpm, you’re in harmony with the natural frequencies of the car. It’s pretty unpleasant. But, just change gears. I’m 20 so take that as you will. YMMV

[holyc0w]

I had 2 flat black gaskets fall out when removing the door panel. What are they for? The 2 bottom bolts?

[ZHPizza]

I had 2 flat black gaskets fall out when removing the door panel. What are they for? The 2 bottom bolts?Small foam discs? Those go on some of the door panel clips. I think the ones around the lower speaker.

[holyc0w]

Small foam discs? Those go on some of the door panel clips. I think the ones around the lower speaker.Yes

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

I had 2 flat black gaskets fall out when removing the door panel. What are they for? The 2 bottom bolts?
I believe they were on all of the door clips initially, according to my 2000 328i, 2002 325xi & the ZHP.

[Yankeefan]

Can someone tell me the part number/where to buy the clips for the black exterior door moulding for a sedan? I can only find the M3 ones on ECS so I suppose they are different part numbers.

[John in VA]

Can someone tell me the part number/where to buy the clips for the black exterior door moulding for a sedan? I can only find the M3 ones on ECS so I suppose they are different part numbers.
Looks like there are 2 styles - #4 & #5. Click on the camera icon to see the difference: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV52-EUR---E46-BMW-330i&diagId=51_3265

[holyc0w]

Small foam discs? Those go on some of the door panel clips. I think the ones around the lower speaker.


I believe they were on all of the door clips initially, according to my 2000 328i, 2002 325xi & the ZHP.

Yep, thanks. Funny how I didn't look at the door panel after I took it off. It was pretty clear.

[YoitsTmac]

I'm having a hell of a time getting the fan clutch off. We removed the expansion tank to get better access. Tried the special tools and no budge. Tried randomly bashing with a mallet with a 4lb sledge a good 40 times, no budge. I'm at a loss here if anyone has some insight on what'd they do in this moment.

[John in VA]

I'm having a hell of a time getting the fan clutch off.
I'm sure you know it's reverse-threaded. Are you banging in the proper direction? Once off, use a dab of anti-seize on the nut & spin it back on - no wrench needed.

[sillieidiot]

I'm having a hell of a time getting the fan clutch off. We removed the expansion tank to get better access. Tried the special tools and no budge. Tried randomly bashing with a mallet with a 4lb sledge a good 40 times, no budge. I'm at a loss here if anyone has some insight on what'd they do in this moment.

Hit it with some penetrating oil. It should come off real easy if you have the wrench and pulley holder. It's reverse threaded.

If you're using the mallet, you want to do quick strikes so the pulley doesn't move too much.

[YoitsTmac]

Yeah I've been doing quick strikes in the clockwise direction. Have used some penetrating fluid too. Quick strikes has also clipped my thermostat and ripped it apart lol. Luckily that's one of the things I'm replacing. So penetrating fluid and that's really it? This is like our third (and most "going all in") attempt at getting it off. I don't know what more I can do.

[John in VA]

I've had better luck with a deadblow hammer vs. sledge - you don't want it to rebound upon impulse. You can use a long-handled screwdriver or prybar (or "special tools") across two of the bolt heads on the pulley to keep it from turning as you strike the wrench on the nut. Might just need more time with penetrating oil, or a torch!
Good luck!

[YoitsTmac]

I ended up cutting the top of the fan clutches cover, unscrewing the fan blades, lifting the rest of the fan clutch cover out with the fan blades, and then taking out the water pump. That's what I was in there to replace and doing a cooling system swap.

[BADCLOWN]

Are these a direct bolt on with the 135i BMWP calipers?


https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/d/e46m3-csl-comp-rotors/6674816527.html

[JETSET303]

Yesterday my hazard and lock switches in the console stopped working and the mirrors have started acting possessed. My locks still work from the fob. The mirrors will move unprovoked to through their full range of motion. When I use the switch to select right or left and move the joystick, it will move all the way in that direction. so I am unable to adjust my mirrors short of manually.

Anyone had this issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ComradeNick]

When I bought my car there a factory sunshade in the trunk. It seems too small for my car, but I don't know which one to buy, any suggestions?

Also which car is this sunshade for, the coupe maybe?

33772

[ZHPizza]

When I bought my car there a factory sunshade in the trunk. It seems too small for my car, but I don't know which one to buy, any suggestions?

Also which car is this sunshade for, the coupe maybe?

33772Nah, the coupe has a longer windshield. Don't know what that lil guy is for.

I wanted the bavauto ultimate sunshade and found it under the generic brand on autoanything so I was able to use coupons. Search around and you'll find the thread on it.

[John in VA]

When I bought my car there a factory sunshade in the trunk. It seems too small for my car, but I don't know which one to buy, any suggestions?
Also which car is this sunshade for, the coupe maybe?
Is there a tag with any writing/numbers?

This is the factory shade - https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=AM53-USA-09_1997_E46_BMW_328i&diagId=03_3889#82111470411

Supposedly it fits ALL E46 3 Series from 1999 to 2005 (E46 320 320i 323 323Ci 323i 325 325Ci 325i 325Xi 328 328i 328Ci 330 330i 330Xi 330Ci M3) / Sedan / Coupe / Convertible / Touring: BMW List Price:$65.00, from online dealer parts stores & eBay ~$50.70.

You can also check the Covercraft UVS100 - appears to be the same item without BMW lettering across it.

[704sw]

Are these a direct bolt on with the 135i BMWP calipers?


https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/d/e46m3-csl-comp-rotors/6674816527.html

99% sure the BMWP kit from ECS uses the same dimension bracket as RebootEngineering does for regular 135i calipers. It’s set up for use with standard 330 rotors (325x25). M3/CSL/ZCP rotors are 28mm thick.

[danewilson77]

Yesterday my hazard and lock switches in the console stopped working and the mirrors have started acting possessed. My locks still work from the fob. The mirrors will move unprovoked to through their full range of motion. When I use the switch to select right or left and move the joystick, it will move all the way in that direction. so I am unable to adjust my mirrors short of manually.

Anyone had this issue?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI wonder if this is a GM5 issue?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[JETSET303]

I wonder if this is a GM5 issue?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

What is GM5? I am still learning. This is my first German.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

What is GM5? I am still learning. This is my first German.
General module 5 - https://www.bmwgm5.com/

[704sw]

Anything I should be planning to do at the same time as tackling the oil pan gasket? After my starter fiasco, I don’t want to ever have another scenario where I’masking myself “why the hell didn’t I do that while I was in there?!”...

[Vas]

Anything I should be planning to do at the same time as tackling the oil pan gasket? After my starter fiasco, I don’t want to ever have another scenario where I’masking myself “why the hell didn’t I do that while I was in there?!”...

All depends on how far you want to take it.

I did gasket, engine mounts, steering coupler, oil level sensor. The oil pan nut was tight so I did not do anything with it.

You can get a different oil pump, weld in an oil pan baffle, and etc.

[san]

Anything I should be planning to do at the same time as tackling the oil pan gasket? After my starter fiasco, I don’t want to ever have another scenario where I’masking myself “why the hell didn’t I do that while I was in there?!”...

You should talk to Rob. He started off with replacing the oil pan gasket (I think) and ended with a supercharger and headers lol

The it was supposed to be just an oil pan gasket project
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=14392&share_tid=18649&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fs howthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D18649&share_type=t

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JETSET303]

General module 5 - https://www.bmwgm5.com/

Thanks John. My locks work from the key fob though, and not intermittently. They work perfectly since I got the new key. It is the interior lock button and hazard switch in the center console and my mirrors that are acting up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

All depends on how far you want to take it.

I did gasket, engine mounts, steering coupler, oil level sensor. The oil pan nut was tight so I did not do anything with it.

You can get a different oil pump, weld in an oil pan baffle, and etc.

My mounts and coupler have been replaced since I bought it. I was thinking about the oil pump nut with the wire through it, but I guess I can make that assessment when I get in there? I should order one just in case since I need to order a lower o-ring for the dip stick tube anyway.

The pump and baffle—I honestly think that’s above my skill set, and I’m not sure I have a firm understanding of the benefits. I’m still immersing myself into all of this.

As for the oil level sensor, it is relatively accessible without taking too much apart, right?


You should talk to Rob. He started off with replacing the oil pan gasket (I think) and ended with a supercharger and headers lol


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=14392&share_tid=18649&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fs howthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D18649&share_type=t

Oh boy, now I have some reading material for my lunch hour.

[704sw]

Thanks John. My locks work from the key fob though, and not intermittently. They work perfectly since I got the new key. It is the interior lock button and hazard switch in the center console and my mirrors that are acting up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Paging @ZHPizza . Wasn’t there a similar problem with the red car when we went to look at it?

[san]

My mounts and coupler have been replaced since I bought it. I was thinking about the oil pump nut with the wire through it, but I guess I can make that assessment when I get in there? I should order one just in case since I need to order a lower o-ring for the dip stick tube anyway.

The pump and baffle—I honestly think that’s above my skill set, and I’m not sure I have a firm understanding of the benefits. I’m still immersing myself into all of this.

As for the oil level sensor, it is relatively accessible without taking too much apart, right?



Oh boy, now I have some reading material for my lunch hour.

I haven’t replaced my oil level sensor but from what I’ve read it’s quite easy to do. Most people do it when replacing the engine oil. I think it’s held in place by a couple of screws. Not sure if Vas has done it but I remember William doing it and saying it’s quite easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Thanks John. My locks work from the key fob though, and not intermittently. They work perfectly since I got the new key. It is the interior lock button and hazard switch in the center console and my mirrors that are acting up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like Spenser said, I've had this problem with the center console switch on several cars. Did it start acting up the same time as the mirrors? If so, then they may be related, but the console switch is notorious for breaking. Pull the console and pop the switch out and see if it works when you press on the bottom of the switch. They tend to break off the tabs that hold them together, so the bottom pushes out and doesn't engage the switch anymore:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=269388&d=1209613595

I usually fix them bu wrapping a piece of non-stretching tape (packing tape) over the bottom and up the sides. The tape fix has lasted me years without issue.


I haven’t replaced my oil level sensor but from what I’ve read it’s quite easy to do. Most people do it when replacing the engine oil. I think it’s held in place by a couple of screws. Not sure if Vas has done it but I remember William doing it and saying it’s quite easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Super easy while you have the pan empty during an oil change. I think you have to pull the aluminum underbody brace off, but it's just three screws holding the sensor in.

[JETSET303]

I noticed the console switches at the same time the mirrors started acting up. Could be coincidence. Thanks for the advice. I will start there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[san]

Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?
I like it - it can be diluted more/less depending on the job. Meguiar's All-purpose cleaner or Super degreaser are a bit less harsh & won't do any damage/leave white residue/deposits on the aluminum surfaces.
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?69-Engine-Compartment-Detailing

[san]

I like it - it can be diluted more/less depending on the job. All-purpose cleaners are a bit less harsh & won't do any damage to the aluminum surfaces.
Meguiars All-purpose cleaner or Super degreaser.
https://meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?69-Engine-Compartment-Detailing

Thanks John!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

My mounts and coupler have been replaced since I bought it. I was thinking about the oil pump nut with the wire through it, but I guess I can make that assessment when I get in there? I should order one just in case since I need to order a lower o-ring for the dip stick tube anyway.

The pump and baffle—I honestly think that’s above my skill set, and I’m not sure I have a firm understanding of the benefits. I’m still immersing myself into all of this.

As for the oil level sensor, it is relatively accessible without taking too much apart, right?



Oh boy, now I have some reading material for my lunch hour.

If you are going to have the oil pan off, I'd recommend the baffle, if you are going to track your car. Just buy a baffle and take it and the oil pan to a machine shop or performance shop that does aluminum welding and they'll do the rest. that's what I did.
As far as the oil pump goes, I replaced the whole thing with an Achilles oil pump. Not that difficult. it's just a couple of bolts that hold on the pump. I can give you some tips on replacing the oil pump if needed.
I beat on my car since it had 44K on it and the oil pump nut was tight as hell but I had already bought the oil pump.

Oil level sensor is on the bottom of the oil pan. You have to take off the aluminum support brace to get it but it can be done with an oil change.


Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?

I use Purple Power.... used to be called Castrol Super Clean. Works great and is environmentally safe. Put in on undiluted and hose off. The only thing is if you have anything anodized under the hood, you don't want to leave it on there for a long time. After you're done, dress the engine bay with Silkonlene Pro Prep and your engine bay will look brand new.

[704sw]

If you are going to have the oil pan off, I'd recommend the baffle, if you are going to track your car. Just buy a baffle and take it and the oil pan to a machine shop or performance shop that does aluminum welding and they'll do the rest. that's what I did.
As far as the oil pump goes, I replaced the whole thing with an Achilles oil pump. Not that difficult. it's just a couple of bolts that hold on the pump. I can give you some tips on replacing the oil pump if needed.
I beat on my car since it had 44K on it and the oil pump nut was tight as hell but I had already bought the oil pump.

Oil level sensor is on the bottom of the oil pan. You have to take off the aluminum support brace to get it but it can be done with an oil change.

Thanks, Rob. I’m honestly considering a second car for dedicated track duty, which is why I don’t want to go too crazy on this one. The Achilles baffle looks good, and in reading more I understand the benefits, but I think I want to save future track-prep mods for the second car. I’d like to work my way up to club racing, and SpecMiata or SpecE46 are really calling my name. But I might change my mind on the baffle in the next few weeks.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by san, responding to "Is simple green a good solvent to clean the engine bay? Anything better?"

I use Purple Power.... used to be called Castrol Super Clean. Works great and is environmentally safe. Put in on undiluted and hose off. The only thing is if you have anything anodized under the hood, you don't want to leave it on there for a long time. After you're done, dress the engine bay with Silkonlene Pro Prep and your engine bay will look brand new.

My neighbor had Castrol Super Clean lift the paint from the air cleaner housing of his GMC truck. Don't know if this is a GMC paint quality issue or due to the Super Clean, but I don't need that kind of cleaning power!

Simple Green, Purple Power, oven cleaners... are great for removing grease, but will attack raw aluminum, especially if left on too long. Dawn dish wash soap is great for cleaning grease. Dawn and a bristle brush can go a long way.

[Sockethead]

If the paint came off, it was ready to come off anyway.
I've never had an issue with super clean/purple power. I've been using it since the early 90's on everything. cars, motorcycles, golf carts, lawn mowers, grills, etc. Even used it to clean the cloth seats in my "85 bronco back in the day... which came out like new.
Anything that's raw aluminum or anodized should only be washed with soapy water but you can still use super clean on it if you wet it first or hose it off within a minute or so. The aluminum block, VANOS assy, etc is un affected by super clean/Purple power

We use Simple Green full strength at work to clean ultrasound diagnostic machines...they are mostly plastic, painted parts and aluminum. Never had an issue with that either.

I would never let a can of oven cleaner get near anything but an oven.

[az3579]

Anything that's raw aluminum or anodized should only be washed with soapy wooder...

Fixt.

33784

[Sockethead]

Hey, I'm not in Jersey anymore...

[stephenkirsh]

If you are going to have the oil pan off, I'd recommend the baffle, if you are going to track your car. Just buy a baffle and take it and the oil pan to a machine shop or performance shop that does aluminum welding and they'll do the rest. that's what I did.
As far as the oil pump goes, I replaced the whole thing with an Achilles oil pump. Not that difficult. it's just a couple of bolts that hold on the pump. I can give you some tips on replacing the oil pump if needed.
I beat on my car since it had 44K on it and the oil pump nut was tight as hell but I had already bought the oil pump.

Oil level sensor is on the bottom of the oil pan. You have to take off the aluminum support brace to get it but it can be done with an oil change.

Oil pan gasket is on my future jobs list.

1.) is it worth replacing the oil pump? They seem pretty solid, nut aside.
2.) aren’t there pan baffles that bolt in?

[Sockethead]

If you're not tracking your car a lot or living in the upper RPM range, I wouldn't worry about it. I beat on my car a lot since I bought it with 44k on it and the nut was tight as hell... I knew I was going FI so that is the major reason for upgrading those parts.

I haven't seen any that bolt in... The only two I really looked at were VAC and Achilles spec e46 catalogs...

[stephenkirsh]

Yes I track the car.

[Sockethead]

Yes I track the car.
In that case, I'd do both while you're in there.
If you decide to replace the oil pump, make sure you prime it. I know there is at least 1 other member that installed the pump dry and didn't have an issue but why take the chance. Fill that baby with oil and spin it a few times to get it good and primed then bolt it on.
There are some that are retrofitting a tensioner for the oil pump chain but that will more work...

[YoitsTmac]

After lots of research, it seems to help with track duty, you should get an S54 chain tensioner, INA overdrive pulley, and a GSR pump.

An oil pump chain tensioner from S54 is also a good idea but risks head gasket damage

[JPMo]

So I've noticed that while driving recently in this insane heat wave we've been having, or any other incredibly hot day, and if I do alot of braking (ie driving in traffic) my brake light and dsc will light up and usually go away by the next time I start the car. Quick search points to the wheel speed sensor, however it seems like there are fronts and rears. Should I go ahead and replace all of them? is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?

[pedro2u]

I have the exact same problem (not the trifecta lights, just DSC and Brake). Comes and goes. I've cleaned the right rear speed sensor already (wasn't that dirty) but look forward to hearing from the forum....... 2005, Only 80K miles

[JPMo]

I have the exact same problem (not the trifecta lights, just DSC and Brake). Comes and goes. I've cleaned the right rear speed sensor already (wasn't that dirty) but look forward to hearing from the forum....... 2005, Only 80K miles

Interesting. I'm at 135, 000 miles. I'd probably replace all of them but they're about $40-50 each and with such an intermittent issue, I'm a little hesitant to spend the money

[PetesZ]

Research the yaw sensor and it’s issues. It is under driver carpet in front of driver seat

[ZHPizza]

Research the yaw sensor and it’s issues. It is under driver carpet in front of driver seatJust replaced this in the wagon last week. Our symptoms were random failures of the DSC where it would do a quick grab of the front left brake out of nowhere and then the light would come on. It eventually just stayed on until I changed the sensor.

I grabbed two extras while I was at the pull a part if anyone needs one. Easy to remove when you can just bust out a knife and cut an access hole in the carpet!

[PetesZ]

I love the “pull a part” salvage yards. Got some spare door actuators from the last coupe I came across.

I need to grab a better ratio differential for the race car. Waiting till it gets more in the 75 85 temperature range

[704sw]

I love the “pull a part” salvage yards. Got some spare door actuators from the last coupe I came across.

I need to grab a better ratio differential for the race car. Waiting till it gets more in the 75 85 temperature range

In the year and a half I’ve owned the ZHP, I’ve only seen two coupes come through either our local LKQ or PaP, and maybe three verts.

[JPMo]

Thanks for the info. I’ve looked into it and I’ll think I’ll start with an alignment as my car is currently driving like sh#t after hitting a pothole a few months back.

[ZHPizza]

I love the “pull a part” salvage yards. Got some spare door actuators from the last coupe I came across.

I need to grab a better ratio differential for the race car. Waiting till it gets more in the 75 85 temperature range
I have a 3.46 diff sitting in the garage if you want it. Could bring it with me to Atlanta next weekend. 3 hour drive is a little easier than 3 hours wrenching under a junk car.

In the year and a half I’ve owned the ZHP, I’ve only seen two coupes come through either our local LKQ or PaP, and maybe three verts.Boi gimme them manual adjusting coupe seat bases

[rguti153]

Has anybody ever had an issue with their electric fan staying on ? After turning off the car . Im trying to figure what's causing the problem .

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Has anybody ever had an issue with their electric fan staying on ? After turning off the car . Im trying to figure what's causing the problem.
Usually a sign that the final stage resistor (FSR) has failed. If you leave the fan running you'll kill your battery. Pull the fuse to the aux. fan.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=16935909#post16935909

[rguti153]

Usually a sign that the final stage resistor (FSR) has failed. If you leave the fan running you'll kill your battery. Pull the fuse to the aux. fan.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=16935909#post16935909Thank you !!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[NYRhockey]

Was running errands today and on one of the stops the damn (un)lock button on the console next to the hazard lights switch decided it was going to die on me, so had to unlock the car with the key fob. What the deuce? Does the battery have anything to do with it?

[ZHPizza]

Was running errands today and on one of the stops the damn (un)lock button on the console next to the hazard lights switch decided it was going to die on me, so had to unlock the car with the key fob. What the deuce? Does the battery have anything to do with it?See if the hazard switch failed with it. If so, then the fix is simple with a piece of tape on the bottom of the switch.

[YoitsTmac]

Has anyone implemented a brake light kill switch? from reading above, it seems it'd cause some issues with DSC/ABS lights.

[NYRhockey]

See if the hazard switch failed with it. If so, then the fix is simple with a piece of tape on the bottom of the switch.

Hazards work. It’s just the lock button that doesn’t work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Was running errands today and on one of the stops the damn (un)lock button on the console next to the hazard lights switch decided it was going to die on me, so had to unlock the car with the key fob. What the deuce? Does the battery have anything to do with it?

Probably just need a new switch... no physical damage, I assume?
I might have a spare one, not sure. I can take a look at if you want, since I'm local. :)


Has anyone implemented a brake light kill switch? from reading above, it seems it'd cause some issues with DSC/ABS lights.

Why would anyone do that? lol

[holyc0w]

Probably just need a new switch... no physical damage, I assume?
I might have a spare one, not sure. I can take a look at if you want, since I'm local. :)



Why would anyone do that? lol

Criminals?

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

[sillieidiot]

Has anyone implemented a brake light kill switch? from reading above, it seems it'd cause some issues with DSC/ABS lights.

It's been done once. But he didn't release a DIY. I remember that if you try to cut in any part of the brake light system, all the lights stay on permanently until you reconnect it.

[NYRhockey]

Probably just need a new switch... no physical damage, I assume?
I might have a spare one, not sure. I can take a look at if you want, since I'm local. :)



Interestingly enough, when i got in the car today the hazard light does not work either (it did yesterday even after the lock button had broken) and its in the down position because when you press the button it does not go down. The lock button is in the up position because i can press it just that it does not do anything.

Perhaps i could swing by one day after work? since you are local, after all :)

[PetesZ]

Hardest part of swapping out the center lock button is removing it. You can get one for 10-15

[ZHPizza]

Interestingly enough, when i got in the car today the hazard light does not work either (it did yesterday even after the lock button had broken) and its in the down position because when you press the button it does not go down. The lock button is in the up position because i can press it just that it does not do anything.

Perhaps i could swing by one day after work? since you are local, after all :)Remove the switch and try pressing it while holding the bottom in. The tabs holding it together fail over time and results in both buttons not functioning. Easy fix with a piece of packing tape.

[az3579]

Perhaps i could swing by one day after work? since you are local, after all :)

Yeah, come on by. Or I can come to you, either way.


Remove the switch and try pressing it while holding the bottom in. The tabs holding it together fail over time and results in both buttons not functioning. Easy fix with a piece of packing tape.

This is probably what happened; it's what happened to me previously. In my experience, tape doesn't fix the issue, and in my case a new switch was required.

[NYRhockey]

Yeah, come on by. Or I can come to you, either way.

I can swing by, check out the new pad and all. I'll check my calendar but early next week looks best. What's good for you?

[az3579]

I can swing by, check out the new pad and all. I'll check my calendar but early next week looks best. What's good for you?Works fine for me. [emoji106]

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Your car sits outside in a hurricane for 3 days and the driver's floorboard is damp afterwards. Got this wet spot on the floor mat. Wyd?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180919/c25fc1724800e3ba311833edbda016b5.jpg

[az3579]

That's an odd spot to be damp...

[Sockethead]

I recently had to replace the seal on the sunroof. Tech said it happens a lot down here due to sun/heat/age but that was the back seat floor... that's the only spot? Sunroof drains?

[Karl Lazlo]

Got this wet spot on the floor mat. Wyd?

Happens all the time when my dates see my collection of BMWs.

[704sw]

Happens all the time when my dates see my collection of BMWs.

I believe we’ve found the correct answer.

/thread

[ZHPizza]

That's an odd spot to be damp...

Yeah it is. This was after it sat in the sun for two days, so it may just be the last spot to evaporate for some reason.


I recently had to replace the seal on the sunroof. Tech said it happens a lot down here due to sun/heat/age but that was the back seat floor... that's the only spot? Sunroof drains?

All other floor boards were dry and I pulled the carpet up -- no moisture underneath. I'll have to test the sunroof drains fo sho.


Happens all the time when my dates see my collection of BMWs.

Doggies that get really excited for car rides?

Edit: Think I found something here. I'll check this first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af3rq-fNPV0

[PetesZ]

Can someone confirm that the ZHP automatic 3.64 rear differential (with cooling fins) fits in a manual.

Any adjustments or mods or is it a straight swap?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-REAR-ZHP-AXLE-DRIVE-DIFFERENTIAL-CARRIER-3-64-RATIO-ASSEMBLY-64K-OEM/263945727822?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item3d74642f4e:g:cfgAAOSwZRlbocIY:sc:FedExHom eDelivery!35758!US!-1

[ZHPizza]

Can someone confirm that the ZHP automatic 3.64 rear differential (with cooling fins) fits in a manual.

Any adjustments or mods or is it a straight swap?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-REAR-ZHP-AXLE-DRIVE-DIFFERENTIAL-CARRIER-3-64-RATIO-ASSEMBLY-64K-OEM/263945727822?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item3d74642f4e:g:cfgAAOSwZRlbocIY:sc:FedExHom eDelivery!35758!US!-1Straight bolt up. Great find with the cooling fin cover.

[Sockethead]

You have to swap the pinion flange and the axel flanges. They are different in the automatic

[ZHPizza]

You have to swap the pinion flange and the axel flanges. They are different in the automatic??? The input flange is different on the 325, and the output flanges are different on the regular 330, but the pics of the 3.64 zhp diff he linked are showing the correct 6 bolt input flange and zhp output flanges

[Sockethead]

I read "automatic" and that's what you have to do.... didn't look at the pic because I was reading on my phone.... looking at the pick, pinion flange looks correct (6bolt) but the axle flanges look like the automatic flanges... easy enough to swap though...the pinion is the PITA to swap...

[PetesZ]

Yeah - Went ahead and got it-

That was my main concern - the Input flange - but the picture on the item did show the correct flange.

The axle flanges are a swift hit from the rubber mallet.....
The cooling fins through me a bit - but bonus

Looking forward to the acceleration with the 3.64. Cheers

[Sockethead]

Yea that diff cover is from the Z4

[ZHPizza]

Yea that diff cover is from the Z4And totally unnecessary on an open diff. You might get lucky and find an aftermarket lsd in there.

[PetesZ]

Definitely a bonus - just the diff cover is $150.

Looks like some Automatic ZHP had them - not sure why but for a track car will help more than hurt.

[JPMo]

Anybody have experience with a foggy, dull almost oxidized appearance of the trunk tails on their ZHP? I’ll post pics once I get outside but it appears like mine are oxidized from the inside which is strange.

[ZHPizza]

Anybody have experience with a foggy, dull almost oxidized appearance of the trunk tails on their ZHP? I’ll post pics once I get outside but it appears like mine are oxidized from the inside which is strange.

I think the UV coating on them is just weak af, so they tend to crack/spiderweb with age. You could always try cleaning them first, but I think replacement is the only option.

http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_rear_light_clean.htm

[JPMo]

I think the UV coating on them is just weak af, so they tend to crack/spiderweb with age. You could always try cleaning them first, but I think replacement is the only option.

http://www.impee.co.uk/bmw_rear_light_clean.htm

Thanks for the link. Looking at them again, I think you're right. They're toast.
33956

[704sw]

Okay familia, can someone educate me on fighting insurance battles?

I just got a call from the other person’s insurance adjuster and she is trying to tell me they cost of repairs “are getting very close to being considered a total loss.” You’ve got to be f***ing kidding me. Now obviously this has upset me greatly, and I may or may not have told her “if you classify this car as a total loss we’re going to have a pretty serious problem.” What are my options? If they call it a total loss, how does one go about buying the car back from the insurance company? Is there anything I can do to prove to them this car is worth more than a run-of-the-mill 330ci? I just want my car back...

[san]

For them to classify it as a total loss, they must’ve valued it pretty low. Do you have an estimate for the repairs from them and know how much they valued your car at?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

For them to classify it as a total loss, they must’ve valued it pretty low. Do you have an estimate for the repairs from them and know how much they valued your car at?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

She said they haven’t even removed the bumper yet but initial estimates of just what they can see from the outside are $2,500 and change, which she said is 57% of their valuation.

I apologize if I’m leaving out details, I’m so mad I can’t see straight right now.

[Sockethead]

Is the Insurance Co State Farm?
If so, they devaluate and lowball everything.

[PetesZ]

Your improvements and their value can be presented - throw the receipts at them

and then beat them like the liberal protesters they act like.

i have bought the "total Loss" car back from the Insurance and fixed it for less than the difference. Now it shows as a Salvage title - but its not like you had plans to sell it.

[san]

She said they haven’t even removed the bumper yet but initial estimates of just what they can see from the outside are $2,500 and change, which she said is 57% of their valuation.

I apologize if I’m leaving out details, I’m so mad I can’t see straight right now.

So they valued the car at $4400 which is BS.

If you don’t mind having salvage/rebuilt title then you will have to prove it to them that your car is not a regular 330, which I’m sure they think it is. Now I think some insurance companies/agents take a look at other listings as a factor and some don’t so you will have to find out what they need in order for you to prove that your car is worth more. There is no point in wasting your time and making a list of all FS ads for zhp‘ only for them to say they won’t consider those.

If you want to maintain a clean title then I think there is a way to make them pay partially. I haven’t heard this from anyone else apart from a friend who drove his f30 into a low hanging metal wire which cause scratches all over the bonnet, tiny few scratches on sunroof glass, boot and roof. His deductible was $500 and when he got the estimate back they said they would paint the panels that have scratches but would have to replace the sunroof glass since they can’t remove the scratches any other way. Now he said he didn’t mind the few scratches on the sunroof glass so he was able to negotiate with the insurance company (geico) to not replace the sunroof glass (saving approx $500) and he would pay $0 deductible instead. Now the reason I brought this story up is because I remember you saying the headlight needs to be replaced as well which might be pushing the price up (price of new e46 headlights are quite expensive iiirc) into the total loss territory. So if the headlight just needs a new lens cover (can pick up from a yard as can’t buy em new), then you can try and negotiate to see if they can fix everything else except that and once you get the car back, you can fix the headlight yourself out of pocket. Even if the headlight is completely broke, you can get another once from a yard. Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Is the Insurance Co State Farm?
If so, they devaluate and lowball everything.

They have Progressive.

[papa_g]

Takes some aggressive negotiating. It has never happened to me, and I don't claim to be the best negotiator, but my best friend once got his Infinity G35 coupe t-boned in an intersection. Total loss, and he got paid roughly the same amount he bought it for 2-3 years prior through some negotiating using receipts and other facts about the car. Just my $0.02

[ZHPizza]

Being angry ain't gon help nothin fam

Be sweet to em, ask them what you can do to help them value the car or what they're seeing as the high cost items and they might actually want to help you. Their job is to spend as little as possible and they get a hard on for sticking it to people that are assholes.

[704sw]

Being angry ain't gon help nothin fam

Be sweet to em, ask them what you can do to help them value the car or what they're seeing as the high cost items and they might actually want to help you. Their job is to spend as little as possible and they get a hard on for sticking it to people that are assholes.

I was absolutely pleasant right up to the point where she said it so nonchalantly, as if totaling the car would be some kind of a relief for me. As if she was doing me a favor. I asked her what I could do and she said nothing. I’m going to call her back this afternoon to discuss further.

[Sockethead]

My wife sees this all the time with insurance claims. They lowball everything and if the customer doesn't protest, that's what they get.
6 months ago, State Farm tried to make them put a used engine in a 5 series with only 6k on the odometer. That car is still sitting there...
I think they are definitely lowballing the value of your car.... sounds like they're basing it on a 325 or something

[Newjack]

My wife sees this all the time with insurance claims. They lowball everything and if the customer doesn't protest, that's what they get.
6 months ago, State Farm tried to make them put a used engine in a 5 series with only 6k on the odometer. That car is still sitting there...
I think they are definitely lowballing the value of your car.... sounds like they're basing it on a 325 or something

My car was something like 5.2k kelly blue book and we all know these cars don't go for that. I sold mine for a lot more than 5k.

[Johnzerd1]

Send her over to Bring a Trailer to look at the completed auctions for the ZHP, just put zhp in the search engine and it will bring up quite a few and remind her they are all paying the buyers premium over the auction price ........ she has to have documentation to be able to pay over the book price and this should do it ...

[PetesZ]

Does anyone have experience with these metal wall posters?

They look amazing.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/596493210/bmw-e46-backlit-metal-wall-sign-poster?ref=related-2
34020

[san]

I was absolutely pleasant right up to the point where she said it so nonchalantly, as if totaling the car would be some kind of a relief for me. As if she was doing me a favor. I asked her what I could do and she said nothing. I’m going to call her back this afternoon to discuss further.

Any updates?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[joeybananaz18]

I think I’m gonna swap out the beige carpet for a black one. Does anyone know if there are any differences between the sedan and coupe carpet? Sedans are hard to come by and coupes are a dime a dozen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

I think I’m gonna swap out the beige carpet for a black one. Does anyone know if there are any differences between the sedan and coupe carpet? Sedans are hard to come by and coupes are a dime a dozen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The front section is the same, but the rear is obviously different.

[joeybananaz18]

The front section is the same, but the rear is obviously different.

very cool thanks for that!!!!!

[san]

I have arc8 17x8.5” et40 wheels and have stock alignment. Does anyone know if I can run 12.5mm spacers at the rear with rubbing on my zhp coupe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

I have arc8 17x8.5” et40 wheels and have stock alignment. Does anyone know if I can run 12.5mm spacers at the rear with rubbing on my zhp coupe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds really ambitious. What’s your tire size?

My 18x8.5 ET38 rubbed in the back when I tried my 5mm spacers.

[san]

Sounds really ambitious. What’s your tire size?

My 18x8.5 ET38 rubbed in the back when I tried my 5mm spacers.

Oh damn. I thought I could run 10mm easily but wasn’t sure about 12.5mm.

245/40 PSS...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Oh damn. I thought I could run 10mm easily but wasn’t sure about 12.5mm.

245/40 PSS...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know that you could even get away with 5mm

[san]

I don't know that you could even get away with 5mm

Back to the drawing board I guess. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Back to the drawing board I guess. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou could give these a shot and go from there

2pc 3mm 5x120 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers (72.6/72.56 Bore) Extremely Lightweight for many BMW Vehicles: 318i 320i 325i 328i 335i M3 428i 435i M4 525i 528i 530i 535i M5 Z3 Z4 640i 645ci E36 E46 E90 E92 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGVGWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_djnVBb83CG0MM

[san]

You could give these a shot and go from there

2pc 3mm 5x120 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers (72.6/72.56 Bore) Extremely Lightweight for many BMW Vehicles: 318i 320i 325i 328i 335i M3 428i 435i M4 525i 528i 530i 535i M5 Z3 Z4 640i 645ci E36 E46 E90 E92 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGVGWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_djnVBb83CG0MM

For that price might as well. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Well at 3mm, there isn't really much point if you're doing it for the look... It's not going to look much different.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Yankeefan]

Has anyone experienced a really loud squeak coming from the clutch? Every time I press or release the clutch quickly it squeaks. This weekend I'll work on figuring out if the sound is coming from inside the cabin (like the pedal spring) or from behind the firewall.

[Sockethead]

There is a bushing on the clutch pedal that wears through. That can cause a squeak. UUC makes a Delrin replacement if that turns out to be the culprit

[az3579]

Has anyone experienced a really loud squeak coming from the clutch? Every time I press or release the clutch quickly it squeaks. This weekend I'll work on figuring out if the sound is coming from inside the cabin (like the pedal spring) or from behind the firewall.Not saying this is it, but I noticed that my clutch operation is quieter since I replaced my clutch, flywheel, and clutch release arm. I used to get creaking whenever the pedal was pressed that isn't there anymore.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

For those of you who have Z4M front control arm bushings, what is your Caster setting for Left and Right? Actually, now I am curious what that caster is for the ones with the regular FCABs too, Left and Right.

[pedro2u]

not sure if this is what you need, but I just looked on my last alignment receipt and it says Front caster: min 5.10 max 6.10

[pedro2u]

for regular FCAB's not Z4M

[704sw]

From what I’ve read, between worn out components and what I’m guessing is slight strut tower deformation, it seems like most E46s aren’t able to achieve a proper caster numbers.

[PetesZ]

Has anyone done a repair to the antenna rear glass connection?

I have ordered some electrical conductive adhesive, anything else?

[NYRhockey]

When i took it to get the oil pan gasket fixed i noticed in the invoice they put 8 quarts in. Today I looked at the oil level and the entire center block is wet and oil touches a bit of the next section covering the 1st number in whatever that code represents. Is it too much oil and if so, how do i drain a little bit without ramps? 34106


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[az3579]

When i took it to get the oil pan gasket fixed i noticed in the invoice they put 8 quarts in. Today I looked at the oil level and the entire center block is wet and oil touches a bit of the next section covering the 1st number in whatever that code represents. Is it too much oil and if so, how do i drain a little bit without ramps?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That oil level is fine, nothing to worry about.

[NYRhockey]

Ok cool. Thx. Wish the dipstick had the max line the way others do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Ok cool. Thx. Wish the dipstick had the max line the way others do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)

[johnrando]

Curious what others actually have on their alignment readout.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Curious what others actually have on their alignment readout.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkWhat do you want to know about alignment settings? I have researched the heck out of this stuff recently and am appalled by BMW's recommended settings for these cars. So much toe in that it drives like a tractor.

[papa_g]

mechanic once told me that toe in is for the purpose of road friction pushing toe back to zero when driving. But why not just have zero toe to begin with...?

[ZHPizza]

mechanic once told me that toe in is for the purpose of road friction pushing toe back to zero when driving. But why not just have zero toe to begin with...?He's right. The rubber RTABs and FCABs in these cars have some give, so they set the alignment with a lot of toe in at rest. When you're running 80mph, the rolling resistance pushes against those rubber bushings and makes the wheels want to toe out, but since he set them with static toe in, they end up tracking straight.

The toe in at low speeds just makes the car not want to turn and I can't stand it though.

[johnrando]

My caster settings are negative on one side and positive on the other. I know almost nothing about caster. Was wondering what 'normal' would be and then what the Z4M ones that add caster would do.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

My caster settings are negative on one side and positive on the other. I know almost nothing about caster. Was wondering what 'normal' would be and then what the Z4M ones that add caster would do.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkCaster is basically the angle that your strut is tilted back towards the driver and that must be a misprint because you can't have negative caster. It's about 5.0° and can't be adjusted on these cars. The Z4M FCABs push the wheel forward a bit in the well and therefore give you a little more caster, which improves turn in.

This is my latest printout from when I had Firestone shoot for -1.5° camber and use the BMW settings for toe. It plowed so hard into corners with all that toe in. I've since replaced the rubber bushings with monoballs so that toe has got to go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181020/17b9697c7661c2e2e2b352b02eda1f9a.jpg

[JPMo]

There should really be a super alignment thread because this information is super useful!

What are you thoughts on my trunk? It's been this way since I purchased the car which makes me think it may have been hit. Could it just be some sort of misalignment that's easily fixable or is the trunk warped? The other side is completely flush. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181020/8df89a062331633273441fd5bb5b693b.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

These alignment posts are very informative - would be easier to find them in the Suspension section vs. 600+ pages of random stuff!
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?99-Suspension

[stephenkirsh]

Those notches are the min and max lines. It's easier to read that one than a regular car's because you don't have to look for a min and max line on the stick which may or may not be covered in oil. :)

Yea it’s the easiest one to read!!

FWIW, I overfill both my miata and zhp by at least half a quart. Cuts down on lifter tick from track/autox.

[tomnobes]

Random question for y'all. I'm considering buying the newest Xtrons unit (pb7846bp). Would there be any reason to possibly wait and see if they come out with an update in the next few months or just go ahead and get this unit while it's only $300 on Amazon. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[ComradeNick]

Random question for y'all. I'm considering buying the newest Xtrons unit (pb7846bp). Would there be any reason to possibly wait and see if they come out with an update in the next few months or just go ahead and get this unit while it's only $300 on Amazon. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I have the newest Eonon unit, it’s identical to the xtrons. I really don’t know what else they can improve on, only issue I have with it is connecting to my iPhone’s hotspot but that an issue with iPhones. I could see more storage and possibly higher resolution but idk. Keep in mind you should expect these units to last no more than two years, they could but they’ve been known to fail prematurely. If you buy the current one I don’t think you will be disappointed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tomnobes]

I have the newest Eonon unit, it’s identical to the xtrons. I really don’t know what else they can improve on, only issue I have with it is connecting to my iPhone’s hotspot but that an issue with iPhones. I could see more storage and possibly higher resolution but idk. Keep in mind you should expect these units to last no more than two years, they could but they’ve been known to fail prematurely. If you buy the current one I don’t think you will be disappointed.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSounds good. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[stephenkirsh]

I have the newest Eonon unit, it’s identical to the xtrons. I really don’t know what else they can improve on, only issue I have with it is connecting to my iPhone’s hotspot but that an issue with iPhones. I could see more storage and possibly higher resolution but idk. Keep in mind you should expect these units to last no more than two years, they could but they’ve been known to fail prematurely. If you buy the current one I don’t think you will be disappointed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TWO YEARS?!? That’s nuts.

[ComradeNick]

TWO YEARS?!? That’s nuts.

It’s like any electronic, you don’t expect an iPhone to last more than two without degrading. With these especially it’s easier to buy a new one for 300 bucks than go through the effort of trying to fix it. Nobody really knows how long these will last since nobody’s passed the two year mark yet, but if older units are an indication I’d give them anywhere from 2-3years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

TWO YEARS?!? That’s nuts.

And that, my friend, is why I’m perfectly content with my magnetic phone mount and aux cable.

[san]

And that, my friend, is why I’m perfectly content with my magnetic phone mount and aux cable.

+1 (without the magnetic phone mount)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[stephenkirsh]

It’s like any electronic, you don’t expect an iPhone to last more than two without degrading. With these especially it’s easier to buy a new one for 300 bucks than go through the effort of trying to fix it. Nobody really knows how long these will last since nobody’s passed the two year mark yet, but if older units are an indication I’d give them anywhere from 2-3years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My iPhone is over 4 years old... works fine.

[stephenkirsh]

And that, my friend, is why I’m perfectly content with my magnetic phone mount and aux cable.

I would be too, except all devices are now removing the headphone jack. So am aux cable is useless now.

[PdZHP]

I would be too, except all devices are now removing the headphone jack. So am aux cable is useless now.

Add a Bluetooth receiver to the aux and your set.

[ComradeNick]

I would be too, except all devices are now removing the headphone jack. So am aux cable is useless now.

Most ZHPs have built in Bluetooth, but from
What I understand it’s a pain in the ass to set up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[704sw]

I would be too, except all devices are now removing the headphone jack. So am aux cable is useless now.

Yea I have the crappy little lightning to aux adapter, but to be honest I’ve primarily just been enjoying the sweet sound of my intake+exhaust since I upgraded from my 6S last December.

[stephenkirsh]

Most ZHPs have built in Bluetooth, but from
What I understand it’s a pain in the ass to set up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine doesn’t, but I added a DICE media bridge. It’s only ok.

I’m buying a ZSP today (it also does not have Bluetooth) for my wife, and the DICE won’t be up to her standards; it’s Bluetooth is unreliable for some reason.

[ComradeNick]

Mine doesn’t, but I added a DICE media bridge. It’s only ok.

I’m buying a ZSP today (it also does not have Bluetooth) for my wife, and the DICE won’t be up to her standards; it’s Bluetooth is unreliable for some reason.

I’m guessing if you have a phone with no aux you can still get an adapter for micro usb or lightning to aux.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

Caster is basically the angle that your strut is tilted back towards the driver and that must be a misprint because you can't have negative caster. It's about 5.0° and can't be adjusted on these cars. The Z4M FCABs push the wheel forward a bit in the well and therefore give you a little more caster, which improves turn in.

This is my latest printout from when I had Firestone shoot for -1.5° camber and use the BMW settings for toe. It plowed so hard into corners with all that toe in. I've since replaced the rubber bushings with monoballs so that toe has got to go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181020/17b9697c7661c2e2e2b352b02eda1f9a.jpgVery helpful, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

Oil pan baffle question: I understand the principle behind an oil pan or fuel tank baffle, but now I want to see if it's worth getting one.
I have an A/T. For this reason, I do not see myself tracking the car.
I do like the occasional spirited drive on windy country roads.
I am convincing myself that BMW has already engineered the oilpan dimensions with drivers like me in mind, so there is no need to augment the current design.
Am I right? I am asking because I am doing my oil pan gasket real soon.

[az3579]

You don't need an oil pan baffle unless you are experience sustained high g cornering, such as a track or autocross course. Save your money. [emoji106]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

You don't need an oil pan baffle unless you are experience sustained high g cornering, such as a track or autocross course. Save your money. [emoji106]
Gotcha! Thanks. I was taking one of those 270º-turn freeway on ramps the other day at higher speed than usual. Felt the g-forces for about 5 seconds and started thinking haha

[ELCID86]

And that, my friend, is why I’m perfectly content with my magnetic phone mount and aux cable.

+1 (I added BT too).

[az3579]

Gotcha! Thanks. I was taking one of those 270º-turn freeway on ramps the other day at higher speed than usual. Felt the g-forces for about 5 seconds and started thinking haha

Nah, you're good. A single on/exit ramp isn't enough to cause your lifters to tick.
Autocross is where the motors are known to tick. I occasionally get the ticking after a full blown track session as well. Haven't removed the oil pan yet since purchasing the car, so a baffle will definitely go in when I finally break down and replace the oil pan gasket. It's not leaking badly enough yet. :)

[ZHPizza]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluid-comparison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluids-review-analysis/

[BMWCurves]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluid-comparison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluids-review-analysis/

You need beers to do this? I admire mine every couple of hours.

[ZHPizza]

You need beers to do this? I admire mine every couple of hours.

do u use mirrors?

[BMWCurves]

do u use mirrors?

wut r those

[danewilson77]

You don't need an oil pan baffle unless you are experience sustained high g cornering, such as a track or autocross course. Save your money. [emoji106]

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TapatalkBecause racecar

Sent from my Note 9 using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

I just got finished cleaning my oil pan for the gasket job. Looks like it has a mild version of a baffle; deep depression and thin metal sleeve thing for the oil suction thing. Also I learned that a good 1/2 quart of oil stays in the pan even after draining for an hour.

[az3579]

Track bois help me out here. I dogged the car on the track for the first time Monday and really put it to my Akebono/Textar OEM brake pads. I did not trust the pads to stop me from 100+ if I laid into them, so I was braking light and early, despite Spenser's coaching of mashing the brakes like u got a pair. Obviously still cooked the shit out of them but whatevs.

So as the sessions went on my brake pedal got softer and softer. To the point that I was braking with the left side of my foot, preparing to blip the throttle with the right side, but the pedal was going so far down that I ended up unintentionally catching the gas pedal and powering into the turn. It was ugly enough that I cut the last session short. I would be thinking boiled brake fluid, but the fluid was freshly flushed the day before with Pentosin DOT 4 LV (dry boiling point 509F). That's comparable to the track day bro standard ATE 200/SuperBlue bp of 536F, so...are we still thinking boiled fluid? (boiling points from here https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluid-comparison-guide/)

I also got worse and worse high speed shuddering when I got on the brakes. I assume due to heat build up and angry rotors.

Tonight I plan to:
Bleed the brakes again
Inspect the pads, if there's any left
Drink 3-4 beers and marvel at how awesome my red rocket is
Hope the pedal feel comes back

EDIT: Nvm, just read this and I definitely boiled that ish. Will bleed and use it for street duty through the winter, but step up to better pads and fluid before spring track events start.

https://thebuildjournal.com/tech-guides/ultimate-brake-fluids-review-analysis/


Stock brake pads are extremely inadequate for track use. You need a proper set of "streetable" track pads OR full blown track pads to withstand track usage.

The heat buildup starts in the pads, which then transfers to the rotors. Stock rotors are fine for track use, so your bottleneck appears to be the pads. Also make sure you have brake fluid that can withstand the higher temps the brake pads and rotors are putting out. I would recommend ATF Typ 200 (the gold stuff) if you're just starting out. This fluid is perfectly fine for street use too, but make sure to bleed this stuff more regularly than regular brake fluid. I think regular fluid can go 2 years. I would change this fluid out at least yearly. Personally I change it out before every event...

I would say a decent pad to upgrade to is something like EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+, IF you are still a beginner. If you are a more advanced student carrying a lot more speed, you'll need something more durable. I use PFC11's on my car, which is a full blown track pad, and swap them out just for the track.

[3LiterStraightSix]

Does anyone else find that stock pads make a ridiculous amount of brake dust?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[holyc0w]

Does anyone else find that stock pads make a ridiculous amount of brake dust?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

Yes, they do.

[Newjack]

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.

[704sw]

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.

That sounds dangerously rational, sir.

[PetesZ]

I am in the minority that prefer the akebono euro ceramic pads.

I hated the oe pads. Swapped them out on all 5 bmws.

+1 no dust:happydane

[az3579]

Brake dust is worth the stopping power.

I prefer stopping power without the brake dust.

[3LiterStraightSix]

I prefer stopping power without the brake dust.We can't possibly have everything.... Can we?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Stock brake pads are extremely inadequate for track use. You need a proper set of "streetable" track pads OR full blown track pads to withstand track usage.

The heat buildup starts in the pads, which then transfers to the rotors. Stock rotors are fine for track use, so your bottleneck appears to be the pads. Also make sure you have brake fluid that can withstand the higher temps the brake pads and rotors are putting out. I would recommend ATF Typ 200 (the gold stuff) if you're just starting out. This fluid is perfectly fine for street use too, but make sure to bleed this stuff more regularly than regular brake fluid. I think regular fluid can go 2 years. I would change this fluid out at least yearly. Personally I change it out before every event...

I would say a decent pad to upgrade to is something like EBC Yellowstuff or Hawk HP+, IF you are still a beginner. If you are a more advanced student carrying a lot more speed, you'll need something more durable. I use PFC11's on my car, which is a full blown track pad, and swap them out just for the track.

Yup, while the dry boiling point is close to the ATE Typ 200, this Pentosin LV shit just wasn't ready for that kind of heat cycling. I'm going to flush out the boiled fluid and wait until spring to put in some quality race ready fluid. No sense in running it through the winter and letting it absorb water.

For pads, I'm thinking about the PFC Z-rated street pads, or doing like you and Spenser do -- swapping in a streetable track pad before events. I'll be flushing the fluid beforehand anyway, so...?


We can't possibly have everything.... Can we?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

The mega dust from the OE pads goes hand in hand with the sharp initial bite. You lose that with a lower dust pad, but (BP about to jump in here on his favorite subject) you get more range of modulation from a performance pad. The lack of initial bite compared to OE makes you think you gave up stopping power, but then you really lean into the brake pedal and throw up on the windshield.

[3LiterStraightSix]

I follow[emoji108] so what brand/model would you recommend for me? Just a daily driver that likes street performance. BUT, my biggest want is little dust as possible. I'm SO tired of cleaning my style 68s every damn week [emoji58][emoji23]
Yup, while the dry boiling point is close to the ATE Typ 200, this Pentosin LV shit just wasn't ready for that kind of heat cycling. I'm going to flush out the boiled fluid and wait until spring to put in some quality race ready fluid. No sense in running it through the winter and letting it absorb water.

For pads, I'm thinking about the PFC Z-rated street pads, or doing like you and Spenser do -- swapping in a streetable track pad before events. I'll be flushing the fluid beforehand anyway, so...?



The mega dust from the OE pads goes hand in hand with the sharp initial bite. You lose that with a lower dust pad, but (BP about to jump in here on his favorite subject) you get more range of modulation from a performance pad. The lack of initial bite compared to OE makes you think you gave up stopping power, but then you really lean into the brake pedal and throw up on the windshield.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

[fredo]

I had akebono ceramic pads on my e90 and was very happy with the results, brake dust was close to zero. For my driving style (non aggressive) they were a perfect fit.

[az3579]

Yes you do lose some bite with ceramic, but I've found I have pretty much the same actual stopping power, but with significantly less dust.

I can't quote right now (Tapatalk acting up) but to the post above fredo's:

I have had great experience with EBC Redstuff. Pretty decent bite, almost no dust, and great stopping power.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

Yeah I've gotten used to the akebonos. Do i miss the initial bite of OE? Every day of my life...

[sillieidiot]

I follow[emoji108] so what brand/model would you recommend for me? Just a daily driver that likes street performance. BUT, my biggest want is little dust as possible. I'm SO tired of cleaning my style 68s every damn week [emoji58][emoji23]

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

I'd go with the PFC Z-rated pads. That's what I run. I didn't like the Akebonos when I had it. Yes, you do lose that initial bite over OE, but not that much. Then it's pretty linear from there on out. It's low dust as well. I think it does dust more than the Akebonos, but I thought the braking feel was much better.