The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread [Archive] - Page 24 - BMW E46 330 ZHP For Sale Forum

slater

05-05-2018, 04:39 PM

Thanks, 704sw.

Update with more detail:

-- I checked the ATF fluid and it was around the middle of the two markers. Adding a little raised the level fairly high, so I didn't add any additional.

-- There was dirty fluid around the cap and the sides of the canister.

-- Fluid inside does appear to be the 'right stuff,' in that it's bright red.

-- The steering is not consistently stiff. When driving, after a turn, the center position feels very hard to move out of, in either direction. however, once I do start a turn, it gets a bit easier, but then further into the turn, a bit harder again. The result is a weird lumpy feeling in the steering where a full spin of the wheel goes stiff-normal-stiff-normal.

Any thoughts? Is this more likely to be the pump? Anything else I can check? Thanks again!

weird. i would raise the front of the car (wheels off the ground) and then start the car, and turn the steering wheel lock to lock and see how it feels.

BMWCurves

05-06-2018, 08:06 AM

It also sounds like possibly an alignment issue if your car no longer returns to center when turns i.e. minimal toe in, but I really don't know, since that wouldn't affect your other symptoms.

BADCLOWN

05-06-2018, 10:46 AM

Will a rain tray cover for an M3 fit a ZHP?

Karl Lazlo

05-06-2018, 12:59 PM

Will a rain tray cover for an M3 fit a ZHP?

The windshield cowl? If so, yes, the P/N is identical for coupe/vert E46, incl M3. Ref: 51718232894

ELCID86

05-06-2018, 04:36 PM

Ugh. SES popped on this week. Pulled the codes p0440 and p0461. Fuel sending unit/pump? (The pump is only 1-2 years old.)
It runs a bit rough at low rpm off a start but fine when driving it.

Newjack

05-06-2018, 05:01 PM

Thanks, 704sw.

Update with more detail:

-- I checked the ATF fluid and it was around the middle of the two markers. Adding a little raised the level fairly high, so I didn't add any additional.

-- There was dirty fluid around the cap and the sides of the canister.

-- Fluid inside does appear to be the 'right stuff,' in that it's bright red.

-- The steering is not consistently stiff. When driving, after a turn, the center position feels very hard to move out of, in either direction. however, once I do start a turn, it gets a bit easier, but then further into the turn, a bit harder again. The result is a weird lumpy feeling in the steering where a full spin of the wheel goes stiff-normal-stiff-normal.

Any thoughts? Is this more likely to be the pump? Anything else I can check? Thanks again!Sounds like your power steering fluid pump is failing. I had a leaky steering hose which drained the reservoir while driving. Without fluid my steering wheels would shake violently when turning, a more aggressive version of your symptoms.

I had the hose replaced along with the power steering pump. Mechanic said when you run the pump with no fluid it damages the pump. If I didn't replace it, chances are I would have to shortly after.

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Newjack

05-06-2018, 05:02 PM

Ugh. SES popped on this week. Pulled the codes p0440 and p0461. Fuel sending unit/pump? (The pump is only 1-2 years old.)
It runs a bit rough at low rpm off a start but fine when driving it.Did you replace the fuel filter when you replaced the pump?

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san

05-07-2018, 06:34 AM

Thanks, 704sw.

Update with more detail:

-- I checked the ATF fluid and it was around the middle of the two markers. Adding a little raised the level fairly high, so I didn't add any additional.

-- There was dirty fluid around the cap and the sides of the canister.

-- Fluid inside does appear to be the 'right stuff,' in that it's bright red.

-- The steering is not consistently stiff. When driving, after a turn, the center position feels very hard to move out of, in either direction. however, once I do start a turn, it gets a bit easier, but then further into the turn, a bit harder again. The result is a weird lumpy feeling in the steering where a full spin of the wheel goes stiff-normal-stiff-normal.

Any thoughts? Is this more likely to be the pump? Anything else I can check? Thanks again!

Replacing the tie rods significantly reduced the effort to turn the steering wheel.

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704sw

05-07-2018, 09:44 AM

Does anyone know if they make exhaust hangers for the mid-bracket with longer studs? Maybe for a different BMW model? (#10 in the below screenshot) If not I might have to get creative.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180507/eed6837a93a4cb50b8834be817926c12.jpg

Sockethead

05-07-2018, 09:57 AM

You're having the same problem I'm having with the magnaflow exhaust, eh?
I'd like to find some Solid rubber blocks to take the place of those and see how they do...
It's a shame that magnaflow took a "close enough" approach on that exhaust system. All they had to do is bend enough for another 1/2" of clearance in that area and it would of been good. It's very annoying

704sw

05-07-2018, 10:03 AM

az3579

05-07-2018, 10:05 AM

Yep, exactly.. I’m thinking about cutting two hockey pucks and threading longer studs into each end. Just not sure the pucks are tall enough.

Now you're thinking like a Canadian. That car is slowly converting you.

ELCID86

05-07-2018, 10:09 AM

Did you replace the fuel filter when you replaced the pump?

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Thanks Rob. In looking back at my records and project tread, I don't see where I have done the filter in the last several years--too many cars... #facepalm. I guess I will start there.

Also pump was done 08-30-2014.

Newjack

05-07-2018, 10:18 AM

Let me know if you need help. This was something not enjoyable to do, and Justin might want some of that 93 octane
Thanks Rob. In looking back at my records and project tread, I don't see where I have done the filter in the last several years--too many cars... #facepalm. I guess I will start there.

Also pump was done 08-30-2014.

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Sockethead

05-07-2018, 10:31 AM

Yep, exactly.. I’m thinking about cutting two hockey pucks and threading longer studs into each end. Just not sure the pucks are tall enough.
I wonder if that rubber will be too solid, transferring NVH to the body...
Do you still have the exhaust bracket that bolts to the trans on there? i had to drill new holes in that bracket to get it to sit right...

I may take my car back to the place that welded on the X-pipe resonator and see what they can do...

mynamenumber

05-07-2018, 10:56 AM

You're saying that the tie rods might lead to a steering wheel that is normal in some parts of its rotation, but unusually heavy in other sections of its rotation?

Interesting, that's not something I thought to consider. Is there any easy at-home test to see if tie rods need replacement?

704sw

05-07-2018, 11:00 AM

I wonder if that rubber will be too solid, transferring NVH to the body...
Do you still have the exhaust bracket that bolts to the trans on there? i had to drill new holes in that bracket to get it to sit right...

I may take my car back to the place that welded on the X-pipe resonator and see what they can do...

Nope that bracket is long gone. The NVH cant be any worse than the metal on metal vibrations.

slater

05-07-2018, 11:22 AM

Now you're thinking like a Canadian. That car is slowly converting you.

LOL!! nice one, BP... i was going to mention that too! :)

Sockethead

05-07-2018, 11:47 AM

Nope that bracket is long gone. The NVH cant be any worse than the metal on metal vibrations.

You might want to put that bracket back on if you have it. It helps stabilize the exhaust when the engine/transmission move on their mounts. Some claim that it helps with NVH too. I put it back on because I have headers and wanted as much support for them as possible.

There are two threads on e46f about this exhaust with links to additional threads... I'll post the links when I get home tonight

704sw

05-07-2018, 12:13 PM

You might want to put that bracket back on if you have it. It helps stabilize the exhaust when the engine/transmission move on their mounts. Some claim that it helps with NVH too. I put it back on because I have headers and wanted as much support for them as possible.

There are two threads on e46f about this exhaust with links to additional threads... I'll post the links when I get home tonight

I look for a that bracket every time I go to a junkyard. I’ve yet to find one intact. Maybe I just need to suck it up and buy it new.

Sockethead

05-07-2018, 12:26 PM

After looking at the condition of Dane's, that might be a good idea :)

ELCID86

05-07-2018, 12:31 PM

Let me know if you need help. This was something not enjoyable to do, and Thanks!
Justin might want some of that 93 octane

:rofl

704sw

05-07-2018, 01:53 PM

I wonder if that rubber will be too solid, transferring NVH to the body...
Do you still have the exhaust bracket that bolts to the trans on there? i had to drill new holes in that bracket to get it to sit right...

I may take my car back to the place that welded on the X-pipe resonator and see what they can do...

I went by the hardware store on my way home. If my idea works I’ll let you know. This buzzing is obnoxious.

Hornung418

05-07-2018, 02:07 PM

Let me know if you need help. This was something not enjoyable to do, and Justin might want some of that 93 octane

Sent from my Nexus 5X using TapatalkFuck off

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Yankeefan

05-09-2018, 03:30 AM

ZHPizza

05-09-2018, 04:18 AM

Anyone used ECS brand wheel spacers? I'm looking at the 10mm and wondering of there will be any issue with fit, or if I'll need the hub extenders that they sell.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/wheel-spacer-bolt-kit-10mm/ecs-pound-253ktwb/They're good. I'm 95% sure I have a set sitting in my garage. Lemme check on that...

Edit: yup i got em

704sw

05-09-2018, 04:33 AM

Anyone used ECS brand wheel spacers? I'm looking at the 10mm and wondering of there will be any issue with fit, or if I'll need the hub extenders that they sell.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/wheel-spacer-bolt-kit-10mm/ecs-pound-253ktwb/

My ECS 12.5s fit just fine. From my observation the ECS lug bolts aren’t as rust-resistant as other brands, but it could just be the person I bought mine from wasn’t as gentle as I would’ve been.

They're good. I'm 95% sure I have a set sitting in my garage. Lemme check on that...

I think those were probably my 12.5s. For some reason I thought your 10s were a different brand. I know your 15s were TMS.

Edit: I stand corrected.

nextelbuddy

05-09-2018, 05:58 AM

704sw

05-09-2018, 06:29 AM

i have a set of 15mm spacers that came with extended bolts. i bought a set of 10mm spacers with out bolts but i read online that I will need extended bolts for 10mm spacers.

does anyone know what length bolt I need to search for to use with 10mm spacers? or can i use my stock bolts with 10mm spacers?

35mm bolts for a 10mm spacer. I think 3mm (*maybe* 5mm, but I wouldn’t try it) is the largest you can go with the factory 26mm lug bolts.

slater

05-09-2018, 07:04 AM

Anyone used ECS brand wheel spacers? I'm looking at the 10mm and wondering of there will be any issue with fit, or if I'll need the hub extenders that they sell.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/wheel-spacer-bolt-kit-10mm/ecs-pound-253ktwb/

i have two sets of ECS spacers - 12.5 and 10mm. i also have a set of 10mm burger motorsports spacers. the burger ones are hands-down a better product - nicer machining, and little cutouts on the backside to allow easier removal from the hub. they also fit the front hubs much nicer than the ECS ones.

in general, i think ECS-branded stuff is sub-par.

Sockethead

05-09-2018, 07:08 AM

The Turner spacers I had were top notch too. Well machined and anodized and had the machining for easy removal

704sw

05-09-2018, 07:09 AM

My H&R spacers were by far the nicest spacers I’ve owned. My Macht Schnell spacers seem well-made, but it’s so hard to tell variances in tiny 3mm spacers.

Yankeefan

05-09-2018, 07:30 AM

Cool cool, thanks for the recommendations everyone.

nextelbuddy

05-09-2018, 09:19 AM

35mm bolts for a 10mm spacer. I think 3mm (*maybe* 5mm, but I wouldn’t try it) is the largest you can go with the factory 26mm lug bolts.

Thanks dude!

704sw

05-09-2018, 09:26 AM

Thanks dude!

Got u fam

704sw

05-11-2018, 03:25 AM

Does anyone know what size e-torx the front subframe bolts are? RealOEM, the Pelican OPG DIY guide, etc. all say they’re hex, but mine are bigboye e-torx.

danewilson77

05-11-2018, 09:57 AM

You might want to put that bracket back on if you have it. It helps stabilize the exhaust when the engine/transmission move on their mounts. Some claim that it helps with NVH too. I put it back on because I have headers and wanted as much support for them as possible.

There are two threads on e46f about this exhaust with links to additional threads... I'll post the links when I get home tonight
Installed last Saturday. Thanks homey

After looking at the condition of Dane's, that might be a good idea :)Yeah... It was trashed. The non OEM bracket and arm from FCP bolted in nicely.

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holyc0w

05-13-2018, 01:56 PM

What's the torx screw in the foglights for? Adjustment?

704sw

05-13-2018, 02:04 PM

What's the torx screw in the foglights for? Adjustment?

Do you have a pic? I don’t remember a torx on the fogs.

holyc0w

05-13-2018, 02:15 PM

@704sw

This whole thing

32880

YoitsTmac

05-17-2018, 11:14 AM

Sockethead

05-17-2018, 11:27 AM

I've had the UUC short shifter and DSSR for close to 10 years now. No issues with it and it's still one of my favorite mods. I haven't tried the Rogue unit but I believe Rob (newjack) has one installed in his car and he's driven my car recently too. Maybe he'll chime in with his thoughts

slater

05-17-2018, 11:32 AM

I'm currently sitting on a rogue engineering short shifter.

ouch...

Newjack

05-17-2018, 11:53 AM

I'm currently sitting on a rogue engineering short shifter. The UUC shifter is on sale for $275 to my door. Anyone want to convince me I'll love it $275 more over my Rogue Engineering or is the only proper upgrade an auto solutions shifter?

I've had the UUC short shifter and DSSR for close to 10 years now. No issues with it and it's still one of my favorite mods. I haven't tried the Rogue unit but I believe Rob (newjack) has one installed in his car and he's driven my car recently too. Maybe he'll chime in with his thoughts

I have the Rogue shifter and I've driven Rob's ZHP with the UUC. I honestly think the UUC is more to my liking. It's a little shorter and more notchy than the rogue unit. The rogue SSK feels very similar to stock, albeit a bit shorter throws. Don't get me wrong I love the Rogue SSK, but its like picking chocolate or vanilla ice cream. Both are good its just slight preference.

YoitsTmac

05-17-2018, 12:04 PM

I have the Rogue shifter and I've driven Rob's ZHP with the UUC. I honestly think the UUC is more to my liking. It's a little shorter and more notchy than the rogue unit. The rogue SSK feels very similar to stock, albeit a bit shorter throws. Don't get me wrong I love the Rogue SSK, but its like picking chocolate or vanilla ice cream. Both are good its just slight preference.

That seals the deal for me. Thanks for your back to back opinion between the two. I will be learning stick with this shifter, so perhaps something closer to stock will be better to learn on. I am actually currently practicing on a Convertible ZHP and find the throws suicidally long. So knowing it's like OEM but shorter sounds attractive to me. I will also have all the bushings refreshed. Perhaps in a year or so I will look at an Auto solutions shifter, since people seam to say that is the cream of the crop.

Newjack

05-17-2018, 12:36 PM

That seals the deal for me. Thanks for your back to back opinion between the two. I will be learning stick with this shifter, so perhaps something closer to stock will be better to learn on. I am actually currently practicing on a Convertible ZHP and find the throws suicidally long. So knowing it's like OEM but shorter sounds attractive to me. I will also have all the bushings refreshed. Perhaps in a year or so I will look at an Auto solutions shifter, since people seam to say that is the cream of the crop.

You get used to the short throws after the first drive. I remember sitting in Dane's car at the Ohio meet last year. Clutched in with the car off and tested the throws and I thought I was using a yardstick (his is stock). Ironically I had no issues with the stock shifter when it was on my car.

Rogue is solid feel, shorter throws and could easily pass as stock to anyone who has never driven a ZHP.

BMWM3186

05-17-2018, 01:30 PM

Does anyone else get vertical lines on their windows after rolling them up and down? I'm looking at getting tint but don't want to put it on there and have it get scratched. The lines are nearly impossible to get on camera and wipe off the interior glass easily.

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JPMo

05-17-2018, 02:12 PM

BMWM3186

05-17-2018, 02:33 PM

vertical lines of what exactly? scratches?I'm not sure what it is, you can sort of see it here at the bottom of the window.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180517/1660a0c928673c6af2271b6b92fc6cbf.jpg

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JPMo

05-17-2018, 02:49 PM

I'm not sure what it is, you can sort of see it here at the bottom of the window.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180517/1660a0c928673c6af2271b6b92fc6cbf.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS 3 using Tapatalk

No clue what it could be but my car doesn't have them. Maybe try putting a piece of white or black paper behind before taking a pic so the contrast is greater

BMWCurves

05-17-2018, 07:56 PM

Is that the distance the window moves when you open/close the door?

holyc0w

05-18-2018, 04:36 PM

That could be just dirt or some kind of residue. The pattern is made when it goes through the thinga-ma-bob.

NYRhockey

05-21-2018, 04:21 PM

holyc0w

05-21-2018, 04:30 PM

I would check the dipstick and see the level. Then re-check and add before going there.

If everything is working properly, I think yellow should be 1 quart low - bottom of the rectangle on the dipstick. Red should be around 2 quarts low.

joeybananaz18

05-21-2018, 06:38 PM

John in VA

05-21-2018, 06:51 PM

Does anyone have a good DIY way of getting rid of small rock chips in their windshield? I have a ton of small chips all over the place. None of them are cracks, they just look like little speckles everywhere.
1. Call your favorite glass shop & have them order new glass.
2. Take car to glass shop.
3. Pay to have new glass installed.
4. Enjoy!

joeybananaz18

05-21-2018, 06:53 PM

1. Call your favorite glass shop & have them order new glass.
2. Take car to glass shop.
3. Pay to have new glass installed.
4. Enjoy!

lol thats what i was thinking. safelite quoted me about 400 if they come to my house. Do we have rain sensing wipers?

ZHPizza

05-22-2018, 01:07 AM

lol thats what i was thinking. safelite quoted me about 400 if they come to my house. Do we have rain sensing wipers?Don't bother with Safelite and their trash glass. Find an independent installer that will use Pilkington glass (OEM) and it'll cost the same but be much higher quality.

The rain sensing wipers were an option. The sensor is mounted to the windshield below the rear view mirror if you have it. My last ZHP didn't have it, so a new OEM windshield was surprisingly cheap.

Dual

05-22-2018, 03:25 AM

My Safelite installer had no problem installing OEM glass upon request. It was an insurance job.

Sockethead

05-22-2018, 06:15 AM

There are different levels of Pilkington glass. The crap Pilkington glass I got was from Mexico and neither my rain sensor or auto headlights work now.
If you have State Farm... plan on getting screwed.

joeybananaz18

05-22-2018, 07:23 AM

Thanks for the feedback guys. Its not incredibly horrible. just want to know my options. on a really bright day the chips are a bit more noticeable but i can live with it for now. i was reading really about low viscosity resin last night. might try it out on one or two of the lower positioned chips.

az3579

05-22-2018, 07:28 PM

I went to drive my zhp on Friday and noticed an oil spot when I pulled out of the garage so I looked under it and the plastic cover was pretty wet with oil. It appears what originally was just a sweat from the oil pan gasket has turned into a legit leak. Then today i drove it for about 5 miles and when i got home and turned the car off the oil light in orange color came on and stayed on for a few seconds.

What is the threshold for the light to come on? I called shop this morning and they can’t take me in until next Tuesday after Labor Day weekend so got a few days to go. Thinking I won’t drive it til i bring it to the shop but should i put some oil in it or would there be enough to hold over for a week sitting on the driveway?

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A solid yellow oil light means it's a quart low. A yellow light that fomes on for a few seconds and goes away could signify a failing oil level sensor if this happens often and the level on the dipstick is correct.

A solid red light is either oil being severely low or low oil pressure, both situations being a STOP the car ASAP situation.

Since you're just getting the yellow light, just make sure your levels are good via the dipstick and you can drive the car till you fix whatever the issue is.

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NYRhockey

05-23-2018, 02:20 PM

How low does this represent? 32992

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BMWCurves

05-23-2018, 02:36 PM

AFAIK it’s about half a quart, although my low level light would be triggered 1/3 of the time by that oil level

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holyc0w

05-23-2018, 04:07 PM

Looks like about .4 quarts, which is completely fine. You want the level to be somewhere on the rectangle.

NYRhockey

05-23-2018, 05:30 PM

holyc0w

05-23-2018, 05:54 PM

If the surface is level then the sensor could be off. I guess the other option would be that the dipstick is wrong.

JETSET303

05-23-2018, 07:09 PM

ZHPizza

05-23-2018, 07:49 PM

Intermittent wipers are not functional. The wipers will move when I put into one of the intermittent levels, but will not move again after that unless I move the selector, then it will move once and then stop. It appears the windshield was replaced at some point with a non OEM unit. VIN decoder indicates that it came with rain sensing wipers. Thoughts on how to remedy?

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMine with the rain sensor does the same thing. I pulled the fuse for the rain sensor and forced the car to default to intermittent. Haven't found a solution for the rain sensor but haven't looked that hard since it's such a moody little bitch.

JETSET303

05-23-2018, 07:53 PM

Mine with the rain sensor does the same thing. I pulled the fuse for the rain sensor and forced the car to default to intermittent. Haven't found a solution for the rain sensor but haven't looked that hard since it's such a moody little bitch.

Thanks. I’ll try that. Don’t need auto anyway, but want intermittent to function .

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slater

05-24-2018, 05:38 AM

Intermittent wipers are not functional. The wipers will move when I put into one of the intermittent levels, but will not move again after that unless I move the selector, then it will move once and then stop. It appears the windshield was replaced at some point with a non OEM unit. VIN decoder indicates that it came with rain sensing wipers. Thoughts on how to remedy?

Mine with the rain sensor does the same thing. I pulled the fuse for the rain sensor and forced the car to default to intermittent. Haven't found a solution for the rain sensor but haven't looked that hard since it's such a moody little bitch.

you can always code them out with PASoft...

Sockethead

05-24-2018, 05:56 AM

san

05-24-2018, 06:12 AM

My rain sensing wipers don’t work at all but oddly enough my auto headlights turn on and off just fine.

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JETSET303

05-24-2018, 06:18 AM

My rain sensing wipers don’t work at all but oddly enough my auto headlights turn on and off just fine.

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Yeah my auto headlights work too. I don’t have PASoft or know anyone around me that does, other than Indy shops. I really need to get on that. I’ll pull the fuse for now and see how that goes.

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Sockethead

05-24-2018, 06:19 AM

Some have gotten the auto wiper sensor to work again by re-calibrating through software... maybe give that a try..

ZHPizza

05-24-2018, 08:29 AM

My rain sensor is dead too along with auto headlights. It's the windshield. They worked fine before I had it replaced. I need to get another windshield but I can't bring myself to hitting my car with a hammer...

I think I recall SC having a law where your insurance company can't charge you a deductible for windshield damage. Might want to look into that...

My rain sensing wipers don’t work at all but oddly enough my auto headlights turn on and off just fine.

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Samesies.

Sockethead

05-24-2018, 08:35 AM

I think I recall SC having a law where your insurance company can't charge you a deductible for windshield damage. Might want to look into that...

That is true... if it's damaged by road debris... hence, the hammer :)

az3579

05-24-2018, 09:12 AM

You guys sure you're using your auto wipers correctly? :)

san

05-24-2018, 09:15 AM

You guys sure you're using your auto wipers correctly? :)

I used to put the stalk in position 1 by pushing it up and that never did anything. Now I just use position 2 or do it manually by pushing the stalk down. Anything I’m missing?

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az3579

05-24-2018, 09:19 AM

I used to put the stalk in position 1 by pushing it up and that never did anything. Now I just use position 2 or do it manually by pushing the stalk down. Anything I’m missing?

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Just wanted to make sure. lol
I just find it really odd that your auto headlights work properly but your wipers don't. The auto headlights and wipers use the same sensor.
You may have to chalk that up to the incorrect windshield, perhaps? I've had two windshields on mine (aftermarket PGW) and now an OE Pilkington glass, and the rain sensor worked fine on both of those. Do you have a rain sensor specific windshield?

If you have INPA, I'm sure there are some tests you can run...
I've never looked in there. I may have to, out of sheer curiosity.

san

05-24-2018, 09:30 AM

Just wanted to make sure. lol
I just find it really odd that your auto headlights work properly but your wipers don't. The auto headlights and wipers use the same sensor.
You may have to chalk that up to the incorrect windshield, perhaps? I've had two windshields on mine (aftermarket PGW) and now an OE Pilkington glass, and the rain sensor worked fine on both of those. Do you have a rain sensor specific windshield?

If you have INPA, I'm sure there are some tests you can run...
I've never looked in there. I may have to, out of sheer curiosity.

You tried to fix this issue on my car at the chipotle parking lot during the 2015 reunion at Cincinnati. I can’t remember what exactly you tried but you did spend a good amount of time with INPA/NCS to try and fix the issue but nothing seemed to help. And if you can’t fix it I doubt I can.

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az3579

05-24-2018, 11:27 AM

You tried to fix this issue on my car at the chipotle parking lot during the 2015 reunion at Cincinnati. I can’t remember what exactly you tried but you did spend a good amount of time with INPA/NCS to try and fix the issue but nothing seemed to help. And if you can’t fix it I doubt I can.

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Wow, this is horrible... I can't remember that. lol
Next thing you know, I won't remember who I am...

Sockethead

05-24-2018, 11:34 AM

You're getting old BP... :)

Newjack

05-24-2018, 11:36 AM

Wow, this is horrible... I can't remember that. lol
Next thing you know, I won't remember who I am...

I remember that Chipotle. I got a burrito and chips and guac.

We all went back to the hotel and took a nap after that too

san

05-25-2018, 04:29 AM

Wow, this is horrible... I can't remember that. lol
Next thing you know, I won't remember who I am...

Well you did work on 3-4 other zhp’s at the same time so I don’t blame you for not remembering.

But you must remember taking Rivkah and me to the dinner place in your zhp. Which convinced me to get the gruppe m and corsa combo.

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san

05-25-2018, 04:30 AM

Is there any reason to not use Costco premium 93 octane gas over Shell 93 octane gas? Especially when Costco is about 70-80 cents cheaper...

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704sw

05-25-2018, 04:46 AM

Is there any reason to not use Costco premium 93 octane gas over Shell 93 octane gas? Especially when Costco is about 70-80 cents cheaper...

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I’m prepared to be chastised, but I run Costco gas all the time. I have yet to observe any difference in the way the car runs.

az3579

05-25-2018, 04:59 AM

Well you did work on 3-4 other zhp’s at the same time so I don’t blame you for not remembering.

But you must remember taking Rivkah and me to the dinner place in your zhp. Which convinced me to get the gruppe m and corsa combo.

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI do remember dinner!

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Sockethead

05-25-2018, 05:56 AM

san

05-25-2018, 06:02 AM

I’m prepared to be chastised, but I run Costco gas all the time. I have yet to observe any difference in the way the car runs.

I’ve filled up at Costco the last 2 times and I haven’t noticed any difference either. Guess I’ll be using Costco then.

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Vas

05-25-2018, 06:22 AM

I been using costco gas for a while no. I believe it is considered a top-tier gas

704sw

05-25-2018, 07:31 AM

I’m about to buy a kit to hardwire my helmet for communications sets (I’m a germaphobe, and using instructor gear grosses me out). Does anyone (and by anyone I mean @theothersawyer @az3579 @stephenkirsh or anyone else who tracks) know if I’m more likely to encounter the NASCAR or IMSA style connector for in-car comm units? I’m fine buying an adapter too, but I’d rather get the one with the more common plug.

holyc0w

05-25-2018, 07:35 AM

Boogity boogity boogity

az3579

05-25-2018, 10:46 AM

I remember in Jersey, Shell was crazy more expensive than other fuels. I used Wawa gas until I found that the BMW dealer was questioning warranty work when the owner was using Wawa gas.
Thankfully, down here Shell is the same price as the other brands...Believe it or not, there is one particular Shell station in my town that's cheaper than all the other gas stations. Score!
I’m about to buy a kit to hardwire my helmet for communications sets (I’m a germaphobe, and using instructor gear grosses me out). Does anyone (and by anyone I mean @theothersawyer @az3579 @stephenkirsh or anyone else who tracks) know if I’m more likely to encounter the NASCAR or IMSA style connector for in-car comm units? I’m fine buying an adapter too, but I’d rather get the one with the more common plug.I've always wanted to look into this but never got around to it. Do tell once you figure it out!

BTW, is the @username supposed to do anything? I don't get notified when you do that for my name, so I'm not sure what purpose it serves.

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Sockethead

05-25-2018, 10:51 AM

I got an email notification from Tappatalk when he used that to alert me...

704sw

05-25-2018, 10:54 AM

I've always wanted to look into this but never got around to it. Do tell once you figure it out!

BTW, is the @username supposed to do anything? I don't get notified when you do that for my name, so I'm not sure what purpose it serves.

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Well I got bored during a conference call and ordered an IMSA wired kit, and an IMSA to NASCAR adapter. I’ll be using the guide in the below link.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/wiring-helmet-radio/

Re: the “@username” yea it’s supposed to notify you that you were mentioned in a post. But come to think of it, the last couple times Nate mentioned me I didn’t get an alert either.

Sockethead

05-25-2018, 11:37 AM

Re: the “@username” yea it’s supposed to notify you that you were mentioned in a post. But come to think of it, the last couple times Nate mentioned me I didn’t get an alert either.

This is what I got when you used @

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/864693aef509d9d3c453887ac927d1a3.jpg

johnrando

05-25-2018, 01:55 PM

Costco is Top Tier. I use it regularly (esp. the price of Premium).

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JETSET303

05-25-2018, 02:11 PM

Not so much of a question than a rant. Battery in key died. Not a big deal until that stupid plastic clip in the lock cylinder snapped. Now I can’t lock my car. In the middle of a basement bathroom remodel that has turned into a cluster f@$k so can’t get the car into my garage. Holiday weekend so no chance of getting a new key or cylinder until next Wednesday from the dealer and can’t find anyone else that can do it in Denver. Beautiful holiday weekend with no ZHP. Going to have to put it in the in-laws garage and hope to hell my father-in-law doesn’t accidentally scratch it or drop a ladder on it or something. Does anyone know an Indy or locksmith in Denver that can cut and program a key like now?

Huh, guess there was a question in there.

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BMWM3186

05-25-2018, 02:32 PM

Interesting that within the required range to the light would go on. I’ll check level again before i drive it to the shop but looks like it’d be fine for that short drive.

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMine comes on when it's about .4-.5 quarts low too. Not big enough of a deal for me to replace the sensor.

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stephenkirsh

05-25-2018, 08:25 PM

stephenkirsh

05-25-2018, 08:25 PM

Oil pan or front main seal? Don’t say both [emoji15]

33022

Sockethead

05-26-2018, 06:09 AM

Classic oil pan leak....

stephenkirsh

05-26-2018, 05:09 PM

Classic oil pan leak....

How long does that job take?

PetesZ

05-26-2018, 06:41 PM

Pelican says about 7 hours

I have not had to do mine yet. But his estimate has been close on other jobs

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/105-ENGINE-Oil_Pan_Gasket_Replacement/105-ENGINE-Oil_Pan_Gasket_Replacement.htm

az3579

05-26-2018, 07:08 PM

The subframe has to come down; it's not a quick job.

704sw

05-27-2018, 02:31 PM

I’m going to be replacing the OFHG and Oil Cooler Gasket on the X3. Is there any reason to pay for the official BMW gasket instead of a Victor Reinz one?

stephenkirsh

05-27-2018, 02:49 PM

The subframe has to come down; it's not a quick job.

Does that mean I’ll need an alignment afterwards?

704sw

05-27-2018, 03:01 PM

Does that mean I’ll need an alignment afterwards?

Yep.

stephenkirsh

05-28-2018, 05:47 PM

Anybody else’s e46 lopsided when jacking up? My passenger side is always 1-2” lower than the driver side.

Driver:
33054

Passenger:
33055

slater

05-28-2018, 06:05 PM

Does that mean I’ll need an alignment afterwards?

nope. leave the steering rack attached.

704sw

05-28-2018, 06:12 PM

Anybody else’s e46 lopsided when jacking up? My passenger side is always 1-2” lower than the driver side.

Driver:
33054

Passenger:
33055

Every time.

stephenkirsh

05-28-2018, 07:31 PM

nope. leave the steering rack attached.

Hmmmm

stephenkirsh

05-28-2018, 07:32 PM

Every time.

What’s up with that?!

BMWCurves

05-28-2018, 07:34 PM

704sw

05-28-2018, 07:37 PM

Yup. Happens to me all the time. I assume it comes down to a series of factors including uneven floor, the car not being jacked up quite evenly, the parking brake gripping each rear wheel a little differently, etc.

I swear I heard someone say supposedly the driver side sits higher when empty to account for the weight of the driver. Possibly related?

NYRhockey

05-29-2018, 07:20 PM

Update on the leak:

Dropped it at the shop last night for the dreaded oil pan gasket leak that 3 different shops over the past year+ had told me was the cause, quoted between $800-$1,100, but got a call in the afternoon saying the gasket was fine, just that the oil pan bolts to the timing cover were leaking, so they removed and sealed them, topped me off for the .4 quarts i was low and that i was good to go, all for $66 + tax.

I had started taking my cars there recently because they were highly recommended in town for doing good work and being honest, but this is amazing. It would have been so easy to nail me for the expensive job as the others had tried, so props to them.

John in VA

05-30-2018, 05:00 AM

... but got a call in the afternoon saying the gasket was fine, just that the oil pan bolts to the timing cover were leaking, so they removed and sealed them, topped me off for the .4 quarts i was low and that i was good to go, all for $66 + tax.
Let's hope that was the correct diagnosis for you!

704sw

05-30-2018, 05:19 AM

Man I wish that was the diagnosis on mine.

johnrando

05-30-2018, 07:24 AM

Very cool you found a shop like that.

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nextelbuddy

05-31-2018, 07:58 AM

need to order new grommets, clips and clamps for the sedan door side molding trim.

found the parts on real oem but cant remember how many i need for each door. I want all new clips and grommets for all 4 doors. numbers 4, 5 and 6 in the image.

does anyone know how many there are in total?

33068

704sw

05-31-2018, 11:37 AM

Does anyone know the difference between the 140mm and 180mm starter? Or how to know which one I need? They’re both listed as compatible with the car.

NYRhockey

06-01-2018, 08:59 AM

Let's hope that was the correct diagnosis for you!

Me too! He said something about putting some sort of dye in the oil and that if i see any oil on the ground to bring it back in and they'll be able to trace it but was confident i'd have no issues.

Last summer i had a lot of water getting into the car and i mentioned a couple weeks ago i had condensation in the headlights so when i took it in for the oil leak i told them about possible clogged drains and they found all of air conditioning, front cowl and sunroof drains clogged, so they cleared them and now my headlights no longer get any condensation :biggrin

Newjack

06-01-2018, 09:02 AM

Does anyone know the difference between the 140mm and 180mm starter? Or how to know which one I need? They’re both listed as compatible with the car.

Looks to be about a 40mm difference.

NYRhockey

06-01-2018, 09:05 AM

Very cool you found a shop like that.

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Yea, i am very happy. They did a similar thing a couple weeks ago when i brought in my wife's Jeep because it is having starting issues where it fires up but then sometimes shuts right back down, so i have to wait a couple seconds, cycle through the run/acc/off modes then fire it up again. I thought it was the spark plugs (103K on it) and mentioned it to them but they said it was not the plugs as they were in good shape and could not replicate the problem (of course when it's at the shop it's fine, fking cars) but that after looking it over they thought it was the fuel relay pump (or something like that) for which i had done a recall in the past, so suggested i take it to the dealer for a current recall i need done and have them look at the fuel relay while it's there.

While i wish they had found the problem, i was happy they didn't try to make me change other things and only got charged half hr of labor.

704sw

06-01-2018, 09:06 AM

Looks to be about a 40mm difference.

Thanks, Rob.

san

06-01-2018, 09:17 AM

Looks to be about a 40mm difference.

:rofl

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Newjack

06-01-2018, 09:20 AM

Thanks, Rob.

LOL sorry I couldn't help it

Maybe they switched to a different manufacturer later on in the E46 cycle? They did some weird stuff with the alternator that I remember Johnmadd having to deal with when his failed.

stephenkirsh

06-01-2018, 06:40 PM

Update on the leak:

Dropped it at the shop last night for the dreaded oil pan gasket leak that 3 different shops over the past year+ had told me was the cause, quoted between $800-$1,100, but got a call in the afternoon saying the gasket was fine, just that the oil pan bolts to the timing cover were leaking, so they removed and sealed them, topped me off for the .4 quarts i was low and that i was good to go, all for $66 + tax.
.

Is this a common problem with the bolts? Were they just not tightened fully?

I might need to do my oil pan gasket this year. Looking for tips.

Sockethead

06-02-2018, 05:35 AM

You'll need an engine support bar. Other than that, it can be done with common hand tools.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180602/c0adb34f6571aa095b95209d189247a7.jpg

704sw

06-02-2018, 06:01 AM

You'll need an engine support bar. Other than that, it can be done with common hand tools.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180602/c0adb34f6571aa095b95209d189247a7.jpg

Do you remember if your front subframe was secured with hex or bigboy e-torx? Everything on the interwebs says it should be a 16 or 18mm hex, but mine are either E16 or E18.

Sockethead

06-02-2018, 06:31 PM

I don't remember buy I have a feeling they were torx

704sw

06-05-2018, 06:02 AM

Okay, I’ve got another question.

Since doing my clutch I’ve noticed vibrations when coasting/maintaining speed when I’m right around 2500-2600rpm. It seems isolated to that range.

Could it be that I didn’t get my driveshaft perfectly lined back up, and thus isn’t perfectly balanced? Maybe I was off by a one or two teeth when I put the two halves back together, idk. My giubo and CSB were replaced back in November when I did my subframe bushings. Maybe I didn’t “preload” the CSB correctly, or the CSB carrier wasn’t pushed back up into the butyl enough, even though the nuts were tightened to spec? Any ideas?

Sockethead

06-05-2018, 11:44 AM

Your new flywheel has a pilot bearing in it right?

704sw

06-05-2018, 11:52 AM

Your new flywheel has a pilot bearing in it right?

Mhmm. I feel like the clutch engagement is way too smooth to be coming from the new installation, but honestly I’m not sure.

Sockethead

06-05-2018, 12:31 PM

slater

06-05-2018, 12:32 PM

Your new flywheel has a pilot bearing in it right?

Mine did, and they are supposed to, so I can only assume that Spenser’s did as well.

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704sw

06-05-2018, 12:48 PM

You need to check and see if the flywheel came with it preinstalled. If it didn't, you need to install it. If you run the car without it, the transmission input shaft bearing will eventually fail. I made this mistake 30 years ago with a Ford V8 and and a nice close ratio toploader 4 speed transmission.

Yep it was preinstalled. I’ll probably drop the exhaust this weekend to make sure I got the driveshaft halves aligned correctly.

ZHP_Brandon

06-06-2018, 04:32 PM

Does anyone know if Shawn still offers the M3 mirror retrofit service? I can’t get any DIY’s that properly explain what to do to the mirror base and I’ve given up on my M3 mirror mod as a diy
I’d rather just pay to have it done for me at this point lol

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Sockethead

06-06-2018, 07:27 PM

Yep it was preinstalled. I’ll probably drop the exhaust this weekend to make sure I got the driveshaft halves aligned correctly.

That's good news.

Yankeefan

06-13-2018, 08:43 AM

Can someone tell me what thread the front tow hook needs? I might do a DIY front tow hook license plate mount. Thanks!

704sw

06-13-2018, 08:55 AM

Can someone tell me what thread the front tow hook needs? I might do a DIY front tow hook license plate mount. Thanks!

M15.8xP3.175

Your best bet is to buy a cheapo towhook off eBay and use it as a base. That thread size doesn’t exist anywhere else, based on my research.

Yankeefan

06-13-2018, 10:22 AM

M15.8xP3.175

Your best bet is to buy a cheapo towhook off eBay and use it as a base. That thread size doesn’t exist anywhere else, based on my research.

Why. Why did BMW choose this thread.

Thanks for the info!

704sw

06-13-2018, 10:25 AM

Why. Why did BMW choose this thread.

Thanks for the info!

Because German Engineering ^TM.

I was trying to rig up a GoPro mount that wouldn’t cost $40, saw the thread size, laughed, and hadn’t thought about it again.

san

06-15-2018, 07:52 AM

What’s the maintenance interval for the fuel filter? The PO changed it at 90k miles and 4 years ago. Car has about 163k miles now.

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holyc0w

06-15-2018, 08:02 AM

Lifetime filter :D

It might not be a bad idea to change it now. I've heard recommendations of 40,000 - 50,000 miles.

Sockethead

06-15-2018, 08:09 AM

I believe it's every inspection II which would be every 30k

az3579

06-15-2018, 08:56 AM

BMWCurves

06-15-2018, 09:10 AM

30k is way too soon.

Last I checked, the type of filters we have with integrated fuel pressure regulators last between 60-100k. I doubt you'd have to replace it before then unless you're running low tier gas.

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I feel like a lot of service intervals I see online are anecdotal, but it's a relatively cheap part to replace every 50-60k miles on the lower end. $60 for MANN last time I checked.

san

06-15-2018, 09:47 AM

99% of my fill ups have been at shell until recently (moved to Costco). Guess I’ll buy it next time I order from fcpeuro and get it done when I have sometime. Thanks guys!

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ELCID86

06-23-2018, 12:59 PM

papa_g

06-23-2018, 09:08 PM

so i removed my back seats tonight to fix my seat belts, and noticed this wire just hanging out not connected to anything. Does anyone know what it is for? I started the engine and it seemed to run fine, so i don't think it is from the fuel pump? Just a little concerned something that should be plugged in is not...
33222

ZHPizza

06-23-2018, 09:11 PM

Any thoughts on what a set of 2 Burger Tuning 12mm spacers should cell for with 9! Extended lug bolts?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180623/2ea9fbb3d5d0cf8c0a7384a80f4eca5c.heic

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180623/6bf403b6def032dfd3f4d49970ef8fe0.heicYour best bet is to add a 10th bolt to your next ECS order and sell them as a set.
so i removed my back seats tonight to fix my seat belts, and noticed this wire just hanging out not connected to anything. Does anyone know what it is for? I started the engine and it seemed to run fine, so i don't think it is from the fuel pump? Just a little concerned something that should be plugged in is not...
33222We all have that little guy hanging around. Prevailing theory is that it's used in transport and never again.

papa_g

06-23-2018, 09:30 PM

Oh thank God

stephenkirsh

06-24-2018, 05:08 PM

Your best bet is to add a 10th bolt to your next ECS order and sell them as a set.We all have that little guy hanging around. Prevailing theory is that it's used in transport and never again.

I love how to this day, nobody truly knows wtf that was used for.

704sw

06-24-2018, 05:24 PM

I love how to this day, nobody truly knows wtf that was used for.

Part of me hopes the answer is never confirmed. It’s good to keep a little mystery in the relationship.

joeybananaz18

06-24-2018, 05:28 PM

704sw

06-24-2018, 05:36 PM

Im in the process of replacing my front fender. One T30 screws on top is being a pain in the ass. I've been soaking it WD40 but it won't budge. Anyone have any other tips for loosening it up? Its starting to strip a bit and i don't want to take any more chances with it.

I assume you’ve hammered the bit into the head and everything? One of the torx on my DISA was stripped, and I had to drill it out. I’ve replaced a lot of the torx bolts with new SS hex hardware.

joeybananaz18

06-24-2018, 05:48 PM

I assume you’ve hammered the bit into the head and everything? One of the torx on my DISA was stripped, and I had to drill it out. I’ve replaced a lot of the torx bolts with new SS hex hardware.

hmmmm. no thats a good idea tho. let me run out and give it a shot.

joeybananaz18

06-24-2018, 06:05 PM

hmmmm. no thats a good idea tho. let me run out and give it a shot.

you know, i'm all about doing things like james may, but sometimes you gotta take a page out of clarkson's book. Hammers are good. That worked perfectly.

704sw

06-24-2018, 07:07 PM

you know, i'm all about doing things like james may, but sometimes you gotta take a page out of clarkson's book. Hammers are good. That worked perfectly.

https://i.imgur.com/2IfuCO3.gif

joeybananaz18

06-24-2018, 07:19 PM

https://i.imgur.com/2IfuCO3.gif

https://i.imgur.com/UAktKmk.gif

Need to step my hammer game up...

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John in VA

06-24-2018, 07:47 PM

you know, i'm all about doing things like james may, but sometimes you gotta take a page out of clarkson's book. Hammers are good. That worked perfectly.
Using a "real" penetrating oil vs. WD-40 makes a difference, too. PB B'laster, Kroil, 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF.

joeybananaz18

06-25-2018, 02:13 AM

Using a "real" penetrating oil vs. WD-40 makes a difference, too. PB B'laster, Kroil, 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF.

gonna keep that in mind. thanks for that!

ELCID86

06-25-2018, 09:51 AM

Your best bet is to add a 10th bolt to your next ECS order and sell them as a set.

Thanks. Or maybe I'll just sell as-is (or without the bolts) and let the buyer buy them. I actually somehow have two extra sets of 12mm.

san

06-25-2018, 10:26 AM

Thanks. Or maybe I'll just sell as-is (or without the bolts) and let the buyer buy them. I actually somehow have two extra sets of 12mm.

Any rubbing with 12mm?

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joeybananaz18

06-26-2018, 05:47 AM

So I’ve been wanting to do some leatherique treatment to my interior and I feel like my drivers side I going to need some touch up dye. Because of this I’ve toyed with the idea of just getting new covers. I don’t have heated seats currently, but thought about doing the retrofit in the future.

I saw this pop up last night.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F12 3207412461

I’m thinking of just letting the leatherique set on this for a couple of days and then swap it into my drivers side, that way I’m “pre-wired” for heated seats. I would just keep an eye out for a new passenger side and then do the same.

I was watching a DIY on YouTube and the guy said the heated seat connection wasn’t the same as what he had in his car already. Dose anyone know if there are different connections for heated seats? I would have assumed they were all the same.

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John in VA

06-26-2018, 06:19 AM

So I’ve been wanting to do some leatherique treatment to my interior and I feel like my drivers side I going to need some touch up dye. Because of this I’ve toyed with the idea of just getting new covers. I don’t have heated seats currently, but thought about doing the retrofit in the future.

I saw this pop up last night.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F12 3207412461

I’m thinking of just letting the leatherique set on this for a couple of days and then swap it into my drivers side, that way I’m “pre-wired” for heated seats. I would just keep an eye out for a new passenger side and then do the same.
I haven't found Leatherique very helpful on BMW leather later than the mid-90s - BMW used a different process where the leather color is more painted on & sealed vs. older leather (E23/24/28/30). The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil doesn't soak in very well. I'd try some Griot's or Sonax leather cleaner.

704sw

06-26-2018, 06:23 AM

I haven't found Leatherique very helpful on BMW leather later than the mid-90s - BMW used a different process where the leather color is more painted on & sealed vs. older leather (E23/24/28/30). The Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil doesn't soak in very well. I'd try some Griot's or Sonax leather cleaner.

I did not know that was true of Montana, but I definitely knew Leatherique was useless on Napa. Thanks for the heads up.

pedro2u

06-26-2018, 07:27 AM

I just tried (yesterday) Leather Rescue Leather Conditioner and Restorer on just the front seats in my convertible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE6KV48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seats are black leather and at 79K miles were showing lighter colored creases and some wear on the driver bolster. They darkened up nicely and seem more pliable. The visible bolster wear has almost disappeared. I'd give it a thumbs up. I could already live with the result, but I may try another application to see if that makes any further improvement.

Wish I had taken before pictures, but here's the drivers side/bolster after:

joeybananaz18

06-26-2018, 08:49 AM

I know alot of e46 people arent to crazy about leatherique because Montana does get as hard as a brick. But I saw this thread and it gave me hope...

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1042581

Really my concern was with the new cover having the heated seat elements. I just want to make sure I don't have to do any more investigating on whether id be able to retrofit them or not. Does anyone know if there are more than one type of plug for the heated seats?

johnrando

06-26-2018, 09:58 AM

Looks good Pedro!

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az3579

06-27-2018, 03:43 AM

704sw

06-27-2018, 04:04 AM

Really my concern was with the new cover having the heated seat elements. I just want to make sure I don't have to do any more investigating on whether id be able to retrofit them or not. Does anyone know if there are more than one type of plug for the heated seats?

I was unaware there were different plugs... I thought they were all the same.

The wiring shouldn't be too different though. If anything, you can probably adapt the connector you have to it.

Paging @nextelbuddy

I’m pretty sure he’s familiar with butt toaster retrofitting.

joeybananaz18

06-27-2018, 04:27 AM

I was unaware there were different plugs... I thought they were all the same.

The wiring shouldn't be too different though. If anything, you can probably adapt the connector you have to it.

If you forward to 8:20 he mentions that the connector isn’t the same as what he had. Like you, I would have thought they were all the same too.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FSKXFNJur-M

I guess on the one hand since I don’t have heated seats to begin with, I don’t really have anything to match to lol

I just want to make sure that when I pick up the heated seat retrofit kit from ecs that it’ll be a plug-n-play situation.

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nextelbuddy

06-27-2018, 06:11 AM

I was unaware there were different plugs... I thought they were all the same.

The wiring shouldn't be too different though. If anything, you can probably adapt the connector you have to it.

Paging @nextelbuddy

I’m pretty sure he’s familiar with butt toaster retrofitting.

If you forward to 8:20 he mentions that the connector isn’t the same as what he had. Like you, I would have thought they were all the same too.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FSKXFNJur-M

I guess on the one hand since I don’t have heated seats to begin with, I don’t really have anything to match to lol

I just want to make sure that when I pick up the heated seat retrofit kit from ecs that it’ll be a plug-n-play situation.

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eh he didnt know what he was doing. the top seat cushion and bottom seat cushion both have a wire connector and the bottom and top wire into each other first... then the Y connector from that goes into the lower wire harness connector.

the seat cushion he got most likely was from a passenger side seat that didn't have heated seats but instead it had a plug for the seat occupancy sensor which is different shape and only 2 wire.

the heated seats are 3 wires. ground, power and temp signal. very easy to rewire to a new plug anyways and they are color coded.

ground is always brown, temp wires will usually be blue or grey with some stripe and the power will be either red or green with yellow stripes. (just going from memory so dont have the specifics in front of me)

I remember watching that video when i did my heated seats and I cringed when i saw him snip the wire and I was like noooooooooo you got the plug identification wrong :/

I have pulled heated seat elements out of early model comfort seats, convertible seats and late model sport seats and they have all had the same plugs for me however even if they were different, they would only be different at the Y connector that connects the upper and lower seat cushion together... those could easily be spliced and wired up color for color and the final destination connector that goes to the main seat harness are all the same anyways.

joeybananaz18

06-27-2018, 06:46 AM

eh he didnt know what he was doing. the top seat cushion and bottom seat cushion both have a wire connector and the bottom and top wire into each other first... then the Y connector from that goes into the lower wire harness connector.

the seat cushion he got most likely was from a passenger side seat that didn't have heated seats but instead it had a plug for the seat occupancy sensor which is different shape and only 2 wire.

the heated seats are 3 wires. ground, power and temp signal. very easy to rewire to a new plug anyways and they are color coded.

ground is always brown, temp wires will usually be blue or grey with some stripe and the power will be either red or green with yellow stripes. (just going from memory so dont have the specifics in front of me)

I remember watching that video when i did my heated seats and I cringed when i saw him snip the wire and I was like noooooooooo you got the plug identification wrong :/

I have pulled heated seat elements out of early model comfort seats, convertible seats and late model sport seats and they have all had the same plugs for me however even if they were different, they would only be different at the Y connector that connects the upper and lower seat cushion together... those could easily be spliced and wired up color for color and the final destination connector that goes to the main seat harness are all the same anyways.

Ladies and gentlemen, i present to you nextelbuddy.... Awesome as always thanks!

704sw

06-30-2018, 05:07 PM

Do the output flanges on all 3.38s need to be changed, or just early models? I was thinking the 3.38 was a direct bolt-on, but we had to swap flanges on Nate’s.

ZHPizza

06-30-2018, 11:07 PM

Do the output flanges on all 3.38s need to be changed, or just early models? I was thinking the 3.38 was a direct bolt-on, but we had to swap flanges on Nate’s.Yeah boo the zhp has special output flanges. It's the input flange that's the same on the 3.38's that makes them special for us.

704sw

07-01-2018, 03:12 AM

Yeah boo the zhp has special output flanges. It's the input flange that's the same on the 3.38's that makes them special for us.

Why we always gotta’ be special?

JPMo

07-02-2018, 05:43 PM

ZHPizza

07-02-2018, 07:22 PM

so just curious with the recent heat wave we're having out in the Mid atlantic/North East, what would I need to do to spruce up the AC? Its currently working fine but I doubt its ever been maintained and a little extra cooling never hurt anyone.Likely nothing. They're sealed systems that shouldn't leak. If there is a significant difference between the left and right center vents then you're low on refrigerant.

papa_g

07-03-2018, 09:19 AM

I've heard a mechanic who says he worked on A/C growing up, say that you can adjust the expansion valve to make the A/C colder. Apparently there are tips and tricks out there. Might be worth looking into, although i would imagine any kind of adjustment would require that you evacuate the system first.

san

07-08-2018, 04:34 AM

Is Duralast 94R DLG a good option for a replacement battery or are there better ones out there?

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ZHPizza

07-08-2018, 06:19 AM

Is Duralast 94R DLG a good option for a replacement battery or are there better ones out there?

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah it's a solid option. This is the one that I went with. 20% off coupon is niceee

ACDelco 94RAGM Professional AGM Automotive BCI Group 94R Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006N91C2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1HqBb3XYADAJ

John in VA

07-08-2018, 12:54 PM

Yeah it's a solid option. This is the one that I went with. 20% off coupon is niceee
ACDelco 94RAGM Professional AGM Automotive BCI Group 94R Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006N91C2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1HqBb3XYADAJ
Checked it out. What is this all about?
http://www.carbatteriesonline.net/acdelco-94r-agm-battery-review/

CONS:
- As it is the AGM battery, it can be used only for the AGM supported vehicles.
- Once the car owners are using the AGM battery for your car, truck, or other auto, it cannot be changed to use the conventional type of battery.

ZHPizza

07-08-2018, 02:28 PM

az3579

07-08-2018, 05:25 PM

Checked it out. What is this all about?
http://www.carbatteriesonline.net/acdelco-94r-agm-battery-review/

CONS:
- As it is the AGM battery, it can be used only for the AGM supported vehicles.
- Once the car owners are using the AGM battery for your car, truck, or other auto, it cannot be changed to use the conventional type of battery.

Sounds like malarky to me. Our cars don't require any kind of coding for the battery that I know of, and I don't think they come with AGM batteries from the factory. I converted mine to AGM without issue, and feel confident everything would be fine if I went back.

I have a feeling that's just a Cover Your Ass statement for the cars where this might cause a problem.

ZHPizza

07-09-2018, 05:21 AM

Sounds like malarky to me. Our cars don't require any kind of coding for the battery that I know of, and I don't think they come with AGM batteries from the factory. I converted mine to AGM without issue, and feel confident everything would be fine if I went back.

I have a feeling that's just a Cover Your Ass statement for the cars where this might cause a problem.

That's probably it. I remember seeing that the e90+ have to have the battery coded to the car after a swap. Another point for the 12+ year old cars.

az3579

07-09-2018, 05:50 AM

That's probably it. I remember seeing that the e90+ have to have the battery coded to the car after a swap. Another point for the 12+ year old cars.

That's not really a big deal though since the software is so easily available. There are benefits to battery registration if I understand them correctly.

san

07-09-2018, 06:49 AM

JPMo

07-16-2018, 01:47 PM

So about 2 weeks ago, while heading southbound on the NJ turnpike, I hit a rather large pothole right on the edge of the lane. It was a very violent impact and the car immediately didn't feel right. Pulled over and discovered the right rear tire (maybe a few months old) is flat and right front has a bubble. I got them replaced but the car still feels off when driving. I'm driving mostly city now so its not as apparent but on the highway or twisty roads, the steering feel is looser and theres a slight pull to the right. What do you think could be the issue?

just trying to get a rough ball park in cost as I'm filing a damage claim to NJ so hopefully I'll be reimbursed. Its always something with the ZHP:facepalm

Vas

07-16-2018, 02:00 PM

When the tires were replaced, did the shop mention to you about having a bent wheel?

Also an impact like that could have damaged other suspension/steering components and altered the alignment.

JPMo

07-16-2018, 02:45 PM

When the tires were replaced, did the shop mention to you about having a bent wheel?

Also an impact like that could have damaged other suspension/steering components and altered the alignment.

They did not but it was also 6pm on a Sun in small town NJ. Everyone was closing and I had to basically plead to a shop to install my tire. Im just hoping its not too messed up or expensive. There are no promises that NJ will reimburse me

Vas

07-16-2018, 03:12 PM

They did not but it was also 6pm on a Sun in small town NJ. Everyone was closing and I had to basically plead to a shop to install my tire. Im just hoping its not too messed up or expensive. There are no promises that NJ will reimburse meI would start there. A free option is You can remove the wheels and inspect them visually for any bends or cracks. Spin them by hand as well to see if they don't seem round . A quick glance at how much weight is on each rim also tells you also how much weight it takes to balance that particular wheel.

Or another option but will cost money is to have all 4 of them balanced at a place that has a road force balancer.

Also if you have not had the car alligned in a long time, this is the time to do it.

In a situation like this, the tires gives out first, then the wheel and then suspension components.

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JPMo

07-16-2018, 03:18 PM

Thanks for you help. I'll definitely give that a go

ELCID86

07-17-2018, 12:39 PM

So is this the brake pad wear sensor light?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180717/080352bc2695b79bd4a9b359763ba297.jpg

Vas

07-17-2018, 12:49 PM

So is this the brake pad wear sensor light?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180717/080352bc2695b79bd4a9b359763ba297.jpg

It sure is.

Sockethead

07-17-2018, 02:14 PM

They did not but it was also 6pm on a Sun in small town NJ. Everyone was closing and I had to basically plead to a shop to install my tire. Im just hoping its not too messed up or expensive. There are no promises that NJ will reimburse me

I had 2 sets of wheels destroyed in NJ. They're going to tell you to go through your insurance company and, if you can prove that NJDOT was at fault, they'll pay your deductible

ELCID86

07-17-2018, 02:16 PM

It sure is.

So riddle me this. A year or more back, I disconnected the sensor and jumped the connection in the small capsule-like connection inside the box near the front left wheel. Why would the light now be coming on ? (I checked to make sure the wire jumper is still in place). Is there another reason it would trigger? (Another sensor...?)

704sw

07-17-2018, 02:46 PM

So riddle me this. A year or more back, I disconnected the sensor and jumped the connection in the small capsule-like connection inside the box near the front left wheel. Why would the light now be coming on ? (I checked to make sure the wire jumper is still in place). Is there another reason it would trigger? (Another sensor...?)

Back right also has one.

Vas

07-17-2018, 02:46 PM

ELCID86

07-17-2018, 02:50 PM

Thanks guys!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180717/5e5f6f31ce065106794ad4c02363caf4.jpg

JPMo

07-17-2018, 03:39 PM

I had 2 sets of wheels destroyed in NJ. They're going to tell you to go through your insurance company and, if you can prove that NJDOT was at fault, they'll pay your deductible

I should have known it would be more complicated than expected.

I tried to file a claim tire rack as well and they hit me with "sorry, if you don't have multiple images of your shredded tire from multiple angles, we cant get you a new one under warranty." Ill try to remember that next time I'm on the side of the road

Vas

07-17-2018, 04:04 PM

Thanks guys!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180717/5e5f6f31ce065106794ad4c02363caf4.jpgWowza. No wonder the light came on

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704sw

07-17-2018, 04:20 PM

Wowza. No wonder the light came on

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Lol no kidding. Really got his money’s worth.

ELCID86

07-17-2018, 04:35 PM

Wowza. No wonder the light came on

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Lol. Yeah. I was like, I know I shorted that circuit out... who’d a thunk there were two more sets of pads in the back that might wear out! :facepalm

Sockethead

07-17-2018, 04:58 PM

I should have known it would be more complicated than expected.

I tried to file a claim tire rack as well and they hit me with "sorry, if you don't have multiple images of your shredded tire from multiple angles, we cant get you a new one under warranty." Ill try to remember that next time I'm on the side of the road

Yep you have to have lots of pictures of the damage and for NJDOT, pictures of whatever caused it

stephenkirsh

07-17-2018, 06:16 PM

Thanks guys!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180717/5e5f6f31ce065106794ad4c02363caf4.jpg

Wow nearly gone!

ELCID86

07-18-2018, 03:04 AM

Wow nearly gone!

Yeah almost too gone. I need to buy new sensors now. I didn’t have those on hand.

ZHPizza

07-19-2018, 11:19 AM

Interesting... I'll give this a try. I didn't hear it rubbing on the console, so I didn't think it was friction-related. It just goes all the way down and just stops, like any normal seat would.

I'm hoping it's something simple like that. Seats aren't cheap. :(

Hey BP did you ever figure this out? My recently swapped seats are also bottoming out long before I can fit a helmet.

Edit: nvm I found your thread where you learned about the front switch. Mine is slammed on all accounts and I have no chance of fitting in there with a helmet. Crudzilla.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?14080-Bought-seats-new-seats-will-not-adjust-as-low-as-old-seats

az3579

07-20-2018, 07:41 AM

Hey BP did you ever figure this out? My recently swapped seats are also bottoming out long before I can fit a helmet.

Edit: nvm I found your thread where you learned about the front switch. Mine is slammed on all accounts and I have no chance of fitting in there with a helmet. Crudzilla.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?14080-Bought-seats-new-seats-will-not-adjust-as-low-as-old-seats

Unfortunately, there is no acceptable solution for me. :(
I had my event this past weekend and my helmet sure enough was hitting the roof.

ZHPizza

07-20-2018, 07:58 AM

Unfortunately, there is no acceptable solution for me. :(
I had my event this past weekend and my helmet sure enough was hitting the roof.I'm looking into swapping over a manual seat base. Everything I'm seeing says that'll let you get about .75"+ lower than the power base, and save a good bit of weight at that.

Next option is sunroof delete...

Hermes

07-20-2018, 06:28 PM

I'm looking into swapping over a manual seat base. Everything I'm seeing says that'll let you get about .75"+ lower than the power base, and save a good bit of weight at that.

Next option is sunroof delete...

This is exactly why I have manual M3 seats in my blue car

ZHPizza

07-21-2018, 01:38 PM

Unfortunately, there is no acceptable solution for me. :(
I had my event this past weekend and my helmet sure enough was hitting the roof.
Hey I just read through a thread where a guy with a Z3 pulled the seats to check the linkage for lowering options and found some change lodged in one of the sliders that, once removed, gave him another .75" of travel. Something to check for both of us since we are sitting higher in our new powered seats compared to the original powered seats.

This is exactly why I have manual M3 seats in my blue car
I'm really hoping I can make the manual base work. The lowering and weight savings aside, I just like the manual adjustments better.

az3579

07-21-2018, 04:12 PM

Hey I just read through a thread where a guy with a Z3 pulled the seats to check the linkage for lowering options and found some change lodged in one of the sliders that, once removed, gave him another .75" of travel. Something to check for both of us since we are sitting higher in our new powered seats compared to the original powered seats.

What slider is this? The one on the bottom?
If so, there is no change in there. Or is this a slider you can only see when you start to disassemble the seat? Not sure what location you're referring to, but I'm anxious to find out!

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ZHPizza

07-21-2018, 04:16 PM

What slider is this? The one on the bottom?
If so, there is no change in there. Or is this a slider you can only see when you start to disassemble the seat? Not sure what location you're referring to, but I'm anxious to find out!

Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkHah I'm not sure what I'm referring to either as the Z3 didn't look to be the same motor system as the e46, but it's just something to check, especially since the supposed same seat doesn't go down as far as the original. I'm travelling for the next few weeks but will tear into my extra set of seats when I get back and see about making modifications or swapping to a manual base.

704sw

07-21-2018, 04:16 PM

Y’all have me, for the first time in my life, feeling kinda okay about being short lol.

YoitsTmac

07-21-2018, 08:36 PM

My client bought a salvage title 330 ZHP and after using it to learn stick and after acquiring a 330 of my own, I am suspicious that is indeed a ZHP motor. My 330 seems faster on the day to day, and I'm pretty sure the auto should be robbing lots of power. I crawled under and to the side of the driver engine mount, I found this tag. Can anyone verify the motor from this? This is where it should be according to BMW.

Reads: "30386256" then next line "30 6S 3"

Edit: removed very large image once verified to be a 3.0 motor

YoitsTmac

07-22-2018, 10:07 AM

I verified that the motor is indeed a 3.0 motor, suggesting it is the ZHP motor. Where should I be looking as to why this motor is so sluggish? Aside from VANOS, which we've put on the list.

stephenkirsh

07-22-2018, 01:26 PM

Your post is a bit unclear. Are you unsure your own car is a zhp motor? And it’s auto? And it feels slower?

az3579

07-22-2018, 03:17 PM

3.0 doesn't necessarily mean a ZHP motor. They had standard 3.0 motors with 225hp and the ZHP motor with an Alpina cam in it making 235hp.

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stephenkirsh

07-22-2018, 07:47 PM

This is the first I’ve ever heard the zhp cam is in any way related to Alpina.

I feel like we’d be talking about that a lot here if it was.

Sockethead

07-23-2018, 09:10 AM

Alpina was the OEM supplier. Nothing special about the cams other than they add 10 HP

John in VA

07-23-2018, 01:22 PM

This is the first I’ve ever heard the zhp cam is in any way related to Alpina.
I feel like we’d be talking about that a lot here if it was.
A quick Google uncovered this - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1108982

YoitsTmac

07-25-2018, 02:53 PM

Your post is a bit unclear. Are you unsure your own car is a zhp motor? And it’s auto? And it feels slower?

It's my clients car. My 330 is a 2001 330 auto. His is a 2006 330 with a manual with a VIN stating it's a ZHP. My car feels like a rocket in comparison. Honestly his car feels closer to my friends 325. We're going to try spark plugs and air filter and go from there. Although I'm unsure what the next step is after that.

3.0 doesn't necessarily mean a ZHP motor. They had standard 3.0 motors with 225hp and the ZHP motor with an Alpina cam in it making 235hp.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Agreed. It is a salvage title. I was suspecting, due to how fast the car felt, that the person who repaired the car sold the ZHP motor and put in a 325 motor to offset his cost. If the car has a 3.0 block, I think the odds of the PO doing that are very slim.

ZHPizza

07-25-2018, 04:14 PM

Red needles on the instruments? Might just be completely worn vanos seals

704sw

07-25-2018, 06:18 PM

Your 330 with auto has a different diff with shorter gearing, so it should feel quicker.

Newjack

07-26-2018, 02:57 AM

Your 330 with auto has a different diff with shorter gearing, so it should feel quicker.

Even with the different gearing they should feel the same. The auto has shorter gearing yes but also has a torque converter which robs a bit of power.

Check the DISA valve my dude. Make sure its plugged in for one, and if not rebuild it with the G.A.S. kit if it doesn't pass the test.

Vanos seals could be another item to fix but would be much less noticeable unless your pulling in 5th or 6th at low RPM's on the highway. For daily driving my bet is on a failing DISA valve.

papa_g

07-26-2018, 01:49 PM

Not sure on this, but could inadequate compression in the cylinders cause power loss? I know it is a common issue on these M54 motors.

3ZHP

07-26-2018, 04:48 PM

Not sure on this, but could inadequate compression in the cylinders cause power loss? I know it is a common issue on these M54 motors.

No, for the most part. Low compression is usually limited to one particular cylinder. Compressor is needed for the ignition to fire causing the power stroke. Without compression it will not fire. This can be referred to as a dead hole and will make the engine run rough because, it’s out of sequence with the other cylinders and not producing equal power.

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YoitsTmac

07-26-2018, 11:12 PM

Thanks everyone for your input. He's decided to do spark plugs for the time being, and then I think we'll go with DISA next, and then VANOS.

Also, does anyone here have any interest on doing an MS43 swap for the tuning? I'm surprised the mafia isn't jumping on this. My buddy and I just swapped an E85 to MS43, and we've flashed the thing with a good 20 tunes, each better than the last. It's just addicting.

san

07-29-2018, 09:26 AM

Newjack

07-29-2018, 09:38 AM

Did anyone ever have the thermostat on their zhp leak coolant? Mine seems to be. The thermostat seems to be maintaining the correct operating temps but the coolant seems to be leaking...

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I think this is a common issue, the gasket gets old and starts leaking coolant from below. It's usually more difficult to locate because of the path the coolant takes.

Might as well do the rest of the system while your there if its the same age. If you were in MD I'd give you a hand since I've done this more times that I ever wanted to lmao

san

07-29-2018, 10:21 AM

I think this is a common issue, the gasket gets old and starts leaking coolant from below. It's usually more difficult to locate because of the path the coolant takes.

Might as well do the rest of the system while your there if its the same age. If you were in MD I'd give you a hand since I've done this more times that I ever wanted to lmao

Thanks Rob.

The thermostat was replaced by the PO 90k miles earlier so I guess it was time. I replaced the exp tank, hoses, temp sensor and the water pump 70k miles/ 3.5 years ago so I think (hope) I’m good.

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Newjack

07-29-2018, 10:30 AM

Thanks Rob.

The thermostat was replaced by the PO 90k miles earlier so I guess it was time. I replaced the exp tank, hoses, temp sensor and the water pump 70k miles/ 3.5 years ago so I think (hope) I’m good.

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90k miles on a thermostat is crazy!

If it were my car I would just replace the water pump and expansion tank while I was in there for peace of mind. You're still probably good for a little while but you never know when something like that will fail and then you're stuck on the side of the road which is no bueno. Hoses should be fine and even if they start to leak it will be small and not catastrophic.

san

07-29-2018, 11:59 AM

90k miles on a thermostat is crazy!

If it were my car I would just replace the water pump and expansion tank while I was in there for peace of mind. You're still probably good for a little while but you never know when something like that will fail and then you're stuck on the side of the road which is no bueno. Hoses should be fine and even if they start to leak it will be small and not catastrophic.

The thermostat leak also seems to be a small one. I’ll order a replacement thermostat and gasket today and keep driving the zhp to work with an eye on the temp needle. I think I might replace the water pump and the exp tank when I store the car in winter. I don’t have a garage now so I’ll just resort to replacing what is required. Hopefully my apartment don’t make big deal out of it.

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az3579

07-30-2018, 03:47 AM

90k miles on a thermostat is crazy!

It's totally fine. My cooling system refreshes are typically way more than 90k. lol
Time may be the real issue here, but I guess the 30k + /year helps with that. :)

If it were my car I would just replace the water pump and expansion tank while I was in there for peace of mind. You're still probably good for a little while but you never know when something like that will fail and then you're stuck on the side of the road which is no bueno. Hoses should be fine and even if they start to leak it will be small and not catastrophic.

The radiator also has plastic on it - something to keep an eye on.

Newjack

07-30-2018, 06:53 AM

It's totally fine. My cooling system refreshes are typically way more than 90k. lol
Time may be the real issue here, but I guess the 30k + /year helps with that. :)

The radiator also has plastic on it - something to keep an eye on.My OE radiator made it over 13 years

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az3579

07-30-2018, 07:25 AM

My OE radiator made it over 13 years

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I don't think radiator failures are all that common. I just recall a guy with an E46 325i pulled over on the highway. I stopped to try to help him out and found that his radiator had a pinhole leak in it that was emptying out his coolant. It was quite strange, and haven't heard of that happening elsewhere. He had tried to botch repair it with some putty stuff in the past but that obviously didn't work!

Newjack

07-30-2018, 07:30 AM

I don't think radiator failures are all that common. I just recall a guy with an E46 325i pulled over on the highway. I stopped to try to help him out and found that his radiator had a pinhole leak in it that was emptying out his coolant. It was quite strange, and haven't heard of that happening elsewhere. He had tried to botch repair it with some putty stuff in the past but that obviously didn't work!

You sure that wasn't Dane!? LOL

BMWCurves

07-30-2018, 12:38 PM

I know the radiator inlet is a known weak point in the E39 M62 engine (it broke like clockwork ~6 years), but I think it's less of a concern in the M54.

BMWCurves

07-31-2018, 07:28 PM

Not related to ZHPs, but I'm inheriting my grandmother's 2007 Honda Civic and I need to replace the taillight and was wondering if anyone has a good website/resource for Japanese parts?

704sw

08-01-2018, 03:21 AM

Not related to ZHPs, but I'm inheriting my grandmother's 2007 Honda Civic and I need to replace the taillight and was wondering if anyone has a good website/resource for Japanese parts?

I’ve never used it, but there’s legitimately a website called OvernightPartsFromJapan

www.ONPFJ.com

They accept Bitcoin, so you know it’s not sketchy at all.

az3579

08-01-2018, 03:25 AM

I've been ordering cheap parts for cars that I don't care about from carparts.com. Pricing is super cheap, shipping quick, and the parts that I ordered were of pretty good quality. Had great experiences with them.

san

08-01-2018, 05:43 AM

Not related to ZHPs, but I'm inheriting my grandmother's 2007 Honda Civic and I need to replace the taillight and was wondering if anyone has a good website/resource for Japanese parts?

I would also look at rockauto. Website looks dated but I’ve heard positive reviews from quite a few people.

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John in VA

08-01-2018, 06:08 AM

Not related to ZHPs, but I'm inheriting my grandmother's 2007 Honda Civic and I need to replace the taillight and was wondering if anyone has a good website/resource for Japanese parts?

http://car-part.com/ is a directory of auto recyclers, if a used tail light is OK - I'm sure you won't have trouble finding one for a Civic there or on eBay.

BMWCurves

08-02-2018, 06:49 AM

I’ve never used it, but there’s legitimately a website called OvernightPartsFromJapan

www.ONPFJ.com

They accept Bitcoin, so you know it’s not sketchy at all.

That's both hilarious and I am disappointed in myself that I am surprised that that's a thing.

I've been ordering cheap parts for cars that I don't care about from carparts.com. Pricing is super cheap, shipping quick, and the parts that I ordered were of pretty good quality. Had great experiences with them.

I would also look at rockauto. Website looks dated but I’ve heard positive reviews from quite a few people.

http://car-part.com/ is a directory of auto recyclers, if a used tail light is OK - I'm sure you won't have trouble finding one for a Civic there or on eBay.

¡Gracias, amigos!