The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[YoitsTmac]

if akebonos fade easily, would running drilled rotors help to reduce the fade?

I would say slotted before drilled. But if you're saying that because of what I said, I can't recommend the PFC-Z pad enough (bimmerworld only). Lot of modulation when cold, but one hard stop and it bites at the top for the rest of your life. The dust is comparable to OEM but its the pad that never gives up. I know I am in a 328 but I am running 330 brakes. Just my two cents on pads if you're in the market. I did a CCA drive and was hustling behind an 11 ZCP M3 and experienced no fade. It can start to squeal a bit after lots of aggressive stopping but it goes away when they cool back down.

[papa_g]

Ok good to know. I actually have akebono ceramics and zimmermann drilled coming, so kinda stuck with them now. But I am not an aggressive braker, and I think anything will be better than my current situation. Previous owner "pad slapped" the brakes, so i running original rotors on new pads; braking power is there, but only when pressing hard. Also the squealing is driving me crazy

[704sw]

if akebonos fade easily, would running drilled rotors help to reduce the fade?

My understanding, from everything I’ve seen, read, and heard, is drilled rotors are really about aesthetics, and slotted rotors are for performance (drilled discs crack). Admittedly that’s more about extreme-stress driving, but I’ve never been able to look past that fact.

[cornercarver]

I would say slotted before drilled.
There have been endless debates on this, but one thing is for sure; Slotted rotors do not reduce brake fade. If anything - they worsen the condition.

Plain rotors, with respect to heat dissipation, are better than slotted. Slotted rotors increase the coefficient of friction, thereby adding heat. Sure, they're 'better' because they improve braking power, but at the cost of increased heat. (There's also some benefit from slotted/drilled rotors because they remove any gas buildup between the rotor and pad when the pad material off-gasses at high temps.)

Best way to reduce brake fade: Bigger, thicker rotors (more mass) and cooling ducts. The performance benefit of drilled rotors is debatable, and if you buy a cheap product you're likely to experience cracking/failure. Porsche has been putting drilled rotors on their cars for decades... They serve more than one purpose, and I guarantee you the original intent was not for 'looks,' but they're a much higher quality product than all the crap that makes its way over here from China. :rolleyes

(ps: if you've ever seen F1 rotors (prior to the advent of carbon-ceramics) they have never used drilled or slotted rotors.)

[Dual]

I ran drilled Zimmermans on my previous car (Porsche fwiw) with no difficulty except that the holes would sometimes cause freezing/filling problems in winter. I wasn't driving the car on the track so fade wasn't something I had experience with. The biggest benefit I saw was in wet driving, and the improvement there was substantial. I never encountered cracking or warping. I think some members of the online group warned about warping, whether from direct experience or hearsay I can't recall.

[san]

Yay or Nay?

https://www.apexraceparts.com/accessories/center-caps/apex-solid-gloss-black-wheel-center-caps.html

Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


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[holyc0w]

Yeah, I read that drilled rotors can help with the water issue.

Anyway, I ordered Zimmermann blanks and Stoptech Sport pads. Meanwhile, I'm taking it easy on my brakes.

[johnrando]

Yay or Nay?

https://www.apexraceparts.com/accessories/center-caps/apex-solid-gloss-black-wheel-center-caps.html

Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm not really feeling those red ones. You want red vs the BMW std ones?

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[Newjack]

Yay or Nay?

https://www.apexraceparts.com/accessories/center-caps/apex-solid-gloss-black-wheel-center-caps.html

Personally I think they look good but I also think they look like are a rip off of the BBS red caps.


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I can't seem to find any good pictures of those caps on a set of apex wheels. I'm leaning towards no, but if I actually saw a good photo of them it might change my mind.

I love red caps on red cards and more specifically, white cars with silver wheels just like Derbos M3. That tiny red accent really pops off the car, like Dimples of Venus on a woman's lower back.

[san]

I'm not really feeling those red ones. You want red vs the BMW std ones?

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I think I’ll stick with the bmw ones I have. Just thought il see what you guys thought...


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[papa_g]

Well, either way I will let you all know how it goes when I get the new brake setup on; hopefully this weekend. It will be zimmermann drilled, akebono ceramic and stoptech SS lines. Watch out for me on the brake thread:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9636-ZHP-brake-advice-input

[Newjack]

I think I’ll stick with the bmw ones I have. Just thought il see what you guys thought...


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http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/saigonazn69/6179895946_7630d7a8e6_b.jpg

Best I could find. I definitely like it, just more of a which looks better type deal.

[johnrando]

I like, for example, the BBS red caps on a red car, but not if you don't have BBS wheels.

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[danewilson77]

I like, for example, the BBS red caps on a red car, but not if you don't have BBS wheels.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk:thumbsup

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[san]

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k67/saigonazn69/6179895946_7630d7a8e6_b.jpg

Best I could find. I definitely like it, just more of a which looks better type deal.

That looks pretty good. I’m just not sure if he apex’s will have the same visual appeal.


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[Newjack]

That looks pretty good. I’m just not sure if he apex’s will have the same visual appeal.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkPhotoshop?

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[san]

Photoshop?

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Wish I had that skill [emoji23]


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[ZHPizza]

Photoshop?

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MS Paint?

32421

Edit: damn i'm good

32422

[Karl Lazlo]

Now I want a red M3.

[johnrando]

Lol

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[san]

MS Paint?

32421

Edit: damn i'm good

32422

Damn good you are! Thanks Nate...


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[Fenrir]

Anyone know how to remove chipping paint from clear coated carbon fiber?
My first thought was power wash it off. But, not entirely sure about that option.

Sent from a blue police box.

[BMWCurves]

Is there a good technique to removing the cigarette lighter socket from the lower console bracket?

EDIT: Nevermind, just shoved some tiny flathead screw drivers and hit it with a rubber hammer.

[BMWCurves]

What is this connection on the back of the business radio head unit? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/17f5766b45fdff2187fd8026bb5191d3.jpg


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[ZHPizza]

What is this connection on the back of the business radio head unit? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180324/17f5766b45fdff2187fd8026bb5191d3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkRadio antenna fam

[BMWCurves]

Radio antenna fam

Yup, figured that one out. I'm in the process of installing my Xtrons headunit and am just trying to get all the connections right.

[Sheepdog84]

Sometimes, i get the itch for a different look, but feel like i’m just trying to justify it in the end...

but, is there any much point in upgrading from a stock, good condition style 135 wheelset to something aftermarket (vmr, etc) besides looks?


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[joeybananaz18]

Sometimes, i get the itch for a different look, but feel like i’m just trying to justify it in the end...

but, is there any much point in upgrading from a stock, good condition style 135 wheelset to something aftermarket (vmr, etc) besides looks?


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the weight savings i saw when going from the 135s to Arc-8s was incredible.... I mean, i nixed it all when i put a full size spare in the trunk but i guess you could say i added a spare without any extra weight lol

[BMWCurves]

the weight savings i saw when going from the 135s to Arc-8s was incredible.... I mean, i nixed it all when i put a full size spare in the trunk but i guess you could say i added a spare without any extra weight lol

Do it for the unsprung weight. Less unsprung weight can improve handling, ride comfort, and acceleration.

[joeybananaz18]

Do it for the unsprung weight. Less unsprung weight can improve handling, ride comfort, and acceleration.

Agreed. Next id like to look into lightweight rotors.

[johnrando]

+1

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[papa_g]

crazy how a regular 330 could probably beat a zhp in acceleration just from the added weight in the performance package

[johnrando]

crazy how a regular 330 could probably beat a zhp in acceleration just from the added weight in the performance packageNot that it matters cuz neither are fast, but not sure why you say that. The data shows otherwise and most of the additions don't weigh much (different color trim, very lightweight body-kit add ons, decals, etc) with a +10 HP (btr cam, etc.) should not make it slower.

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[YoitsTmac]

Not that it matters cuz neither are fast, but not sure why you say that. The data shows otherwise and most of the additions don't weigh much (different color trim, very lightweight body-kit add ons, decals, etc) with a +10 HP (btr cam, etc.) should not make it slower.

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I think he was referring to the wheels, which are quite heavy.

[johnrando]

Those are def heavy wheels. Wonder how much heavier than their standard 330 ones? I finally gave in and bought some lightweight Apex wheels.

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[papa_g]

I was definitely mainly referring to the wheels haha, but they look really nice so I will probably keep them. I don't have any real data to back my claim, I just read it somewhere one time lol. If iternats say it's true then I believe?
BTW what is the obsession with apex wheels? Is it a pretty universal e46/bmw thing or just the guys on this forum?

[704sw]

I think the obsession is (1) they look quite nice, and (2) they offer a tremendous value in terms of build quality and weight savings. They (and other flow-formed wheels) fill a bit of a void between cheaper cast wheels (sub-$1k) and forged wheels (well over $2k).

From what I’ve seen they’re super popular with all E46 fans.

[az3579]

I think he was referring to the wheels, which are quite heavy.The wheels may be heavier, but actual acceleration differences are extremely negligible.

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[BMWCurves]

Interesting article on low weight wheels and their effect on performancehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180326/56a618b6a65eb10a5b7e8f26f3337fab.jpg


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[johnrando]

I think the obsession is (1) they look quite nice, and (2) they offer a tremendous value in terms of build quality and weight savings. They (and other flow-formed wheels) fill a bit of a void between cheaper cast wheels (sub-$1k) and forged wheels (well over $2k).

From what I’ve seen they’re super popular with all E46 fans.I don't know the obession per se but that is a pretty good explanation. That's why I chose them.

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[papa_g]

great. now I want lighter wheels. thx guys.

[John in VA]

Those are def heavy wheels. Wonder how much heavier than their standard 330 ones?
Style 135:
8x18 vorne ET47 11,23 kg
8,5x18 hinten ET50 11,93 kg

Style 67:
8x18 vorne ET47 11,23 kg
9x18 hinten ET26 12,23 kg

Style 68:
7,5x17 vorne ET41 9,50 kg
8,5x17 hinten ET50 9,92 kg

http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/

[johnrando]

Ah, thanks!

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[papa_g]

so 7.5kg/16.5lbs extra in some cases. Yeah, really not much difference.

[johnrando]

Isn't unsprung weight 4x though?

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[YoitsTmac]

Isn't unsprung weight 4x though?

it's either 4x or 5x more, yeah. I'm pretty sure 4x. I'd say 16.5lbs a corner is a tremendous change. If I had 135's with 255 Potenza RE050A RFT tires, each corner would weigh 54lbs (excluding weight of the air and hardware). My setup I just ordered will weigh 43lbs a corner. That's 11lbs per corner, or 44lbs off the car, which would make the car feel 176lbs lighter. Just don't forget to consider tire weights as well as your rims.

[BMWCurves]

I will never forget the swap on my father's Miata from the 15 inch BBS wheels to the 14 inch BBS wheels, shaving weight to just 26 lbs per tire/wheel combo. The car used to be unsettled on a certain road that had some spots of uneven surface. After the switch, the car was a different animal. It was planted, it just gripped and gripped and gripped. Same tires, just less weight. Steering was different too with the slightly taller sidewall.

[pedro2u]

The PO of my 05 ZHP vert apparently hit a parking lot curb and badly gouged the right underside of the M-Tech bumper. It also broke the splash guard/fender liner (which I replaced) and broke off the splash guard attachment point on the bumper. Car still looks great since none of this shows visibly from the front, but it's under there, so it's on my list of parts I'll eventually want to change. Any recommendations for best sources?

In researching the cost of replacement bumpers (51117893060 $560 at Turner), I found an interesting image on RealOEM for the bumper. It shows that my damaged piece as a removable part (item 16)? Am I seeing this wrong? I'm not seeing that on other sites. Was there a time when this came as a replaceable part? RealOEM doesn't list a part number for item 16, just shows it separately from the bumper (item 1).

[ZHPizza]

The PO of my 05 ZHP vert apparently hit a parking lot curb and badly gouged the right underside of the M-Tech bumper. It also broke the splash guard/fender liner (which I replaced) and broke off the splash guard attachment point on the bumper. Car still looks great since none of this shows visibly from the front, but it's under there, so it's on my list of parts I'll eventually want to change. Any recommendations for best sources?

In researching the cost of replacement bumpers (51117893060 $560 at Turner), I found an interesting image on RealOEM for the bumper. It shows that my damaged piece as a removable part (item 16)? Am I seeing this wrong? I'm not seeing that on other sites. Was there a time when this came as a replaceable part? RealOEM doesn't list a part number for item 16, just shows it separately from the bumper (item 1).

That there #16 is the club sport splitters or whatever they called them. They were an add-on that BMW stopped selling many moons ago.

Similar: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/carbon-fiber-front-splitters/008002ecs08a~ecs/

[slater]

Style 135:
8x18 vorne ET47 11,23 kg
8,5x18 hinten ET50 11,93 kg

Style 67:
8x18 vorne ET47 11,23 kg
9x18 hinten ET26 12,23 kg

Style 68:
7,5x17 vorne ET41 9,50 kg
8,5x17 hinten ET50 9,92 kg

http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/

personally i don't buy any of those weights... if you look at more wheels, all 18x8 wheels are spec'd at the same weight. 18x8.5's the same, 18x9's the same too.

it just cannot possibly be accurate. :)

[Newjack]

Sometimes, i get the itch for a different look, but feel like i’m just trying to justify it in the end...

but, is there any much point in upgrading from a stock, good condition style 135 wheelset to something aftermarket (vmr, etc) besides looks?


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Apex Arc 8's in 245/40/17 oh my god boy howdy shuckem up

The weight savings were huge. Stock ZHP style 135's look great. I think they define the ZHP in the most obvious way and when they are clean and fresh its extremely "Ultimate Klass" looking.

With that being said, ditching the 135's for Arc 8's was the best decision I ever made. Square setup is ez mode for handling and getting even wear. The weight savings per wheel was insane and you really, really, notice a difference when accelerating. The car just feels so much more nimble and agile. Its like having a 300lbs person in the passenger seat vs just you in the car. Nothing has really changed as far as power, torque or stiffness of the suspension, but the weight distribution is huge. Not to mention wheel weight plays a bigger role in how the car handles than extra weight you might have in the trunk.

You can't go wrong with either choice, but as far as enjoyment out of a set of wheels I absolutely love my Apex wheels and will be getting another set.

[papa_g]

The PO of my 05 ZHP vert apparently hit a parking lot curb and badly gouged the right underside of the M-Tech bumper. It also broke the splash guard/fender liner (which I replaced) and broke off the splash guard attachment point on the bumper. Car still looks great since none of this shows visibly from the front, but it's under there, so it's on my list of parts I'll eventually want to change. Any recommendations for best sources?

In researching the cost of replacement bumpers (51117893060 $560 at Turner), I found an interesting image on RealOEM for the bumper. It shows that my damaged piece as a removable part (item 16)? Am I seeing this wrong? I'm not seeing that on other sites. Was there a time when this came as a replaceable part? RealOEM doesn't list a part number for item 16, just shows it separately from the bumper (item 1).

Thats funny, my PO did the same thing, except he claims that the front two tires were slashed, and the front side ended up falling onto the curb it was above (which i find suspect, because these cars are too low to go over any curb lol). Anyway, one of the splash guards was so broken it actually fell off on the trip home from San Francisco. Ended up replacing both splash guards, only to find that there are attachment clips that don't seem to go anywhere. Turns out the attachment points on the bumper broke off as well. Now the splash guards kinda wobble back and forth. Not too bad though. I don't see myself replacing the bumper unless something bad happens. I say just leave it if everything is more or less stable and no one can see it!

[Yelkos]

[QUOTE=pedro2u;557401]The PO of my 05 ZHP vert apparently hit a parking lot curb and badly gouged the right underside of the M-Tech bumper. It also broke the splash guard/fender liner (which I replaced) and broke off the splash guard attachment point on the bumper. Car still looks great since none of this shows visibly from the front, but it's under there, so it's on my list of parts I'll eventually want to change. Any recommendations for best sources?

I have looked at www.khoalty.com for M-Tech bumpers
great prices just not sure about fitment and quality.
anyone have any experiance with them??

[pedro2u]

Thanks ZHPizza. I guess the term I needed for searching was "splitter" ECS stills sells them, but now my ebay searches with "spliiter" are finding lots of images of them and they look like $@%& to me. Plus it appears they would just hide the part that I really need to replace anyway.

Yelkos - thanks for the Khoalty tip. Much cheaper, but I'd anyone with experience/feedback on fitment/quality?

[pedro2u]

papa_g - this is at the bottom of the list of items I'd do anyway. I bought the car in October and it almost immediately went into storage. So I might have put 500 miles at most on. So your approach seems to be the best. Drive it for a while this spring and see how many things I hit before I take the plunge and replace it!

NH winter is almost over........... So it will be coming out of the darkness in the next 2-3 weeks. Can't wait

[Sheepdog84]

You can't go wrong with either choice, but as far as enjoyment out of a set of wheels I absolutely love my Apex wheels and will be getting another set.

Curious, in your experience, if since the Apex wheelset would be lighter, if the “crashiness” of the ride feel over uneven surfaces and bumps would increase, in comparison to the 135’s?

That’s one of my main hangups with upgrading... i’m still running stock suspension, fwiw.


Apex’s might be worth looking into down the road... but i also appreciate keeping the ZHP as close to “stock” looking as possible.




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[johnrando]

I've read tons of posts complaining about Khoalty's customer service and the fitment. I've also read many that say they are just fine. But given that it's not overwhelmingly positive, I would personally not buy from them.

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[Newjack]

[QUOTE=pedro2u;557401]The PO of my 05 ZHP vert apparently hit a parking lot curb and badly gouged the right underside of the M-Tech bumper. It also broke the splash guard/fender liner (which I replaced) and broke off the splash guard attachment point on the bumper. Car still looks great since none of this shows visibly from the front, but it's under there, so it's on my list of parts I'll eventually want to change. Any recommendations for best sources?

I have looked at www.khoalty.com for M-Tech bumpers
great prices just not sure about fitment and quality.
anyone have any experiance with them??




I've read tons of posts complaining about Khoalty's customer service and the fitment. I've also read many that say they are just fine. But given that it's not overwhelmingly positive, I would personally not buy from them.

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I have a Khoalty Mtech II front bumper. I doubt anyone that has seen my car would be able to tell. Fitment is spot on and its identical to the original, just get it painted and its worth the price.

[Newjack]

Curious, in your experience, if since the Apex wheelset would be lighter, if the “crashiness” of the ride feel over uneven surfaces and bumps would increase, in comparison to the 135’s?

That’s one of my main hangups with upgrading... i’m still running stock suspension, fwiw.


Apex’s might be worth looking into down the road... but i also appreciate keeping the ZHP as close to “stock” looking as possible.




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I don't know what you mean by "crashiness"? As in tramlining? Like the car wants to follow the curvature of the road and require more hands on the wheel to hold it in line? Yeah this happens, but only because I increased the width of my front tires from stock 225 to 245 up front. More grip in the front means more tramlining.

Does it bother me? No, not in the slightest. I can't say I have ever noticed it outside of the first week of driving when I was super in tune with the differences from a stock setup. I did go with 17's instead of stock 18's, so the ride is slightly softer when hitting bumps which I actually appreciate a lot when driving in the city.

[Sheepdog84]

I don't know what you mean by "crashiness"?


Ahh my apologies. I mean, how bad are repercussions you receive while driving... as in, if you hit a big bump/pothole, how much feedback do you receive in the driver’s seat... Worse, or better?



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[ZHPizza]

Ahh my apologies. I mean, how bad are repercussions you receive while driving... as in, if you hit a big bump/pothole, how much feedback do you receive in the driver’s seat... Worse, or better?



Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkShould be improved with lighter wheels/tires. Lets the suspension work with less momentum from the weight.

[Newjack]

Ahh my apologies. I mean, how bad are repercussions you receive while driving... as in, if you hit a big bump/pothole, how much feedback do you receive in the driver’s seat... Worse, or better?



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Pretty much what pizza said. Lighter wheels are easier to keep planted, and I also went with 17's which are a slightly softer ride overall.

I wouldn't ever go back to stock ZHP wheels.

[BMWCurves]

Curious, in your experience, if since the Apex wheelset would be lighter, if the “crashiness” of the ride feel over uneven surfaces and bumps would increase, in comparison to the 135’s?

That’s one of my main hangups with upgrading... i’m still running stock suspension, fwiw.


Apex’s might be worth looking into down the road... but i also appreciate keeping the ZHP as close to “stock” looking as possible.




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If you're on stock suspension with anything above 50k miles, a suspension refresh will help a lot with that "crashiness" feeling. I noticed it in my worn shocks, especially on low speed bumps that should not cause the suspension that much trouble. Definitely improved with a suspension refresh. Here's what I did to get an "OEM+" feeling in my suspension:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16182-Help-with-Suspension-Refresh-at-50k-miles-10-years

Also, I switched to 17" APEXes. I had the dual benefit of reducing unsprung weight from the wheel which should improve ride comfort some regardless, and then I also effectively increased the sidewall of the tire, which should provide some sort of ride comfort improvement as well.

[YoitsTmac]

damn guys, I'm getting really frustrated in my research. I finally told E46F about my 6-speed swap and am slowly getting parts together when I can. What fluid should I put in it? I hear D4 ATF, Redline MTL, and Pentosin MTF-2. I somehow ordered MT90 back when I was first getting parts. I live in a warm climate, around SF, so cold weather is low concern. Any help would be appreciated!

[ZHPizza]

damn guys, I'm getting really frustrated in my research. I finally told E46F about my 6-speed swap and am slowly getting parts together when I can. What fluid should I put in it? I hear D4 ATF, Redline MTL, and Pentosin MTF-2. I somehow ordered MT90 back when I was first getting parts. I live in a warm climate, around SF, so cold weather is low concern. Any help would be appreciated!Redline D4 ATF my dude
Recommend by Redline and most everyone here

[YoitsTmac]

Thanks! Guess I'll use the MT90 as fire starter or something :P

[704sw]

Still getting some midrange throttle surge after the Vanos seals were replaced. What’s the next thing to check? ICV? O2s?

[Sockethead]

Are you sure you're not feeling the transition of the DISA valve opening? I firmly believe this is what's causing it. There is going to be a disruption of flow through the manifold for a split second as the DISA opens and the manifold volume changes... This is why it goes away when folks disconnect the DISA from the system...
My dyno run before the supercharger clearly shows the transition and it's gone in the subsequent runs after the supercharger install which replaces the stock manifold/DISA setup... granted, there is a tune involved but after research by Ryan and other tuners, they are hardly changing anything in the DME

[704sw]

I suppose it could be? It’s happening where I carry a gear through a corner and try getting on the throttle as I’m tracking out. Seems to really only affect 3rd and 4th.

[san]

I suppose it could be? It’s happening where I carry a gear through a corner and try getting on the throttle as I’m tracking out. Seems to really only affect 3rd and 4th.

How was the track day btw?


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[az3579]

How was the track day btw?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1st and 2nd tend to too short to make it that noticeable. 3rd and 4th can make the car feel like it's dragging in that range.

I'd say that's expected for some of our cars. For some reason it only happens on some and not all. My DISA transition is super obvious and annoying.

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[704sw]

How was the track day btw?

We’re on Day 2, and it’s been incredibly enjoyable. My instructor drives a ZHP, so that’s been great to have someone who knows these cars in your ear the whole time. I still have 3 sessions left.


1st and 2nd tend to too short to make it that noticeable. 3rd and 4th can make the car feel like it's dragging in that range.

I'd say that's expected for some of our cars. For some reason it only happens on some and not all. My DISA transition is super obvious and annoying.

Any chance rebuilding the DISA will help resolve that?

[az3579]

Any chance rebuilding the DISA will help resolve that?

I already did that myself and the benefit was super short lived. The dip came right back again. I've just learned to live with it.

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[Sockethead]

Do you have your DSC turned off? You should have that and traction control off on the track

[Prestovie]

Any suggestions on how to prevent swirls/scratches from a magnetic car topper? Cracked my ball joint on my truck driving back from Florida and I’m going to fix it this weekend, so unfortunately I’ll be driving pizzas in the ZHP all this week. The car topper has 4 magnetic discs on the corners, would a paper towel work? Need it to still be magnetized properly.
Also not excited about the pizza smell, I’ll be spraying her down with ozium after every shift lol


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[Sockethead]

Yes paper towels would probably work as long as they don't rip. I was thinking felt paper

[Prestovie]

Yes paper towels would probably work as long as they don't rip. I was thinking felt paper

Oh felt paper is a good call, probably would be less susceptible to tearing over the paper towels too


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[ZHPizza]

Cut up a microfiber towel?

[sillieidiot]

Any suggestions on how to prevent swirls/scratches from a magnetic car topper? Cracked my ball joint on my truck driving back from Florida and I’m going to fix it this weekend, so unfortunately I’ll be driving pizzas in the ZHP all this week. The car topper has 4 magnetic discs on the corners, would a paper towel work? Need it to still be magnetized properly.
Also not excited about the pizza smell, I’ll be spraying her down with ozium after every shift lol


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I just used painters tape when I had one. Like 3 layers thick lol I wasn't delivering pizza though so I'm not how strong those are. The top layer starts to wear down after awhile, but then I would just add another layer. Then take it off at the end of the week and start over.

[az3579]

I just used painters tape when I had one. Like 3 layers thick lol I wasn't delivering pizza though so I'm not how strong those are. The top layer starts to wear down after awhile, but then I would just add another layer. Then take it off at the end of the week and start over.That's a great idea. Or, perhaps try PlastiDip in those spots where the magnets touch. They are usually very strong magnets so they should grip through the PD layer. Then just peel off when done. Spray it super thick with many coats so it is more durable.

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[slater]

I already did that myself and the benefit was super short lived. The dip came right back again. I've just learned to live with it.

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weird that my car doesn't have that dip...

[704sw]

weird that my car doesn't have that dip...

Nate has me thinking my issue might be a little more expensive than the DISA [emoji24]

Possibly clutch slip? I’ve had a rattle right as I’m starting to accelerate in first, which I misdiagnosed as the resonated x-pipe rubbing the exhaust bracket. Maybe the rubber between layers of the DMF flywheel are gone? I’m not sure, but I did notice a faint smell in the garage last night when I got home, which I believe is a symptom of a dying clutch.

[slater]

Nate has me thinking my issue might be a little more expensive than the DISA [emoji24]

Possibly clutch slip? I’ve had a rattle right as I’m starting to accelerate in first, which I misdiagnosed as the resonated x-pipe rubbing the exhaust bracket. Maybe the rubber between layers of the DMF flywheel are gone? I’m not sure, but I did notice a faint smell in the garage last night when I got home, which I believe is a symptom of a dying clutch.

based on the videos nate sent me, and the noises, i think it's your DMF. there are three rubber damping blocks in the DMF that are known to wear out, especially on blue cars. heck, they even were pretty worn on my red car. i would definitely get the valeo SMF kit - very happy with mine.

[704sw]

based on the videos nate sent me, and the noises, i think it's your DMF. there are three rubber damping blocks in the DMF that are known to wear out, especially on blue cars. heck, they even were pretty worn on my red car. i would definitely get the valeo SMF kit - very happy with mine.

Frig! So my instructor was telling me to do the clutch master cylinder and line “while I’m in there.” Thoughts? And do I need anything else aside from the Valeo kit+metal pivot pin? I’m obviously doing a rear main seal kit since it’s drippy-drippy.

Also my starter occasionally acts up, and I know it’s a hell of a lot easier to access with the tranny removed. Any chance the slipping clutch is related to the failure to start? If not, time for a Bosch from FCP. Goodbye money!

[az3579]

There is no need to do your clutch master cylinder and line... Those very rarely fail. I haven't heard of any failures of those items personally.

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[slater]

Frig! So my instructor was telling me to do the clutch master cylinder and line “while I’m in there.” Thoughts? And do I need anything else aside from the Valeo kit+metal pivot pin? I’m obviously doing a rear main seal kit since it’s drippy-drippy.

Also my starter occasionally acts up, and I know it’s a hell of a lot easier to access with the tranny removed. Any chance the slipping clutch is related to the failure to start? If not, time for a Bosch from FCP. Goodbye money!

ha. it's only money.

the valeo kit has everything you need - t/o bearing, pilot bearing (already installed in the SMF), bolts, etc... the metal pin is a nice thing to do with you're in there.

as for the clutch MC - i wouldn't bother, it's easy to do afterwards.

rear main seal - absolutely. don't bother getting the entire seal/bracket, just get the seal - it will come with the install tool, and it's cake to install.

if the DMF is wearing out, in my mind that could cause startup issues... the 'mass' that the starter engages would rotate quite a bit before the 'mass' bolted to the crank starts turning. in this regard, i think DMFs are so dumb.

[704sw]

ha. it's only money.

Sigh...


the valeo kit has everything you need - t/o bearing, pilot bearing (already installed in the SMF), bolts, etc... the metal pin is a nice thing to do with you're in there.

Do I need to replace the fork?


as for the clutch MC - i wouldn't bother, it's easy to do afterwards.

Okay cool, thanks!


rear main seal - absolutely. don't bother getting the entire seal/bracket, just get the seal - it will come with the install tool, and it's cake to install.

Do the bolts need to be replaced too? I know some are single use. And any merit to doing the front driveshaft seal while I’m there? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I’m a rookie here [emoji17]


if the DMF is wearing out, in my mind that could cause startup issues... the 'mass' that the starter engages would rotate quite a bit before the 'mass' bolted to the crank starts turning. in this regard, i think DMFs are so dumb.

The sound is like a small motor trying to turn over, but not doing so successfully. It doesn’t sound anything like when the X3’s starter went kaput.

[slater]

Do I need to replace the fork?

nope! just clean and lube.



Do the bolts need to be replaced too? I know some are single use. And any merit to doing the front driveshaft seal while I’m there? Sorry for all the stupid questions, I’m a rookie here [emoji17]

no worries, it will all make sense when you're in there. :)

all bolts that need to be replaced will come with the kit - so no need to source anything there.



The sound is like a small motor trying to turn over, but not doing so successfully. It doesn’t sound anything like when the X3’s starter went kaput.

can you try to record a sound clip of it?

[704sw]

can you try to record a sound clip of it?

It’s inconsistent (maybe once a week, but I expect it to be more frequent now lol), but I’ll just record each time I start up until I capture it.

I want to keep saying “dammit Peter sold me a lemon!” but that’s just life with an aging German car [emoji849]. At least I’m learning a hell of a lot!

[Vas]

It’s inconsistent (maybe once a week, but I expect it to be more frequent now lol), but I’ll just record each time I start up until I capture it.

I want to keep saying “dammit Peter sold me a lemon!” but that’s just life with an aging German car [emoji849]. At least I’m learning a hell of a lot!

Check out the project thread for sketchi. I have everything listed that I bought to replace the clutch and flywheel and rebuild the shifter assembly.

Now the weather is warm, I will be tacking this job.

[slater]

It’s inconsistent (maybe once a week, but I expect it to be more frequent now lol), but I’ll just record each time I start up until I capture it.

I want to keep saying “dammit Peter sold me a lemon!” but that’s just life with an aging German car [emoji849]. At least I’m learning a hell of a lot!

haha... yep, it's a lemon!! :)

i mean... it's not a honda. :) but it also is not engineered like one. and at the age these cars are at, a lot of these type of issues definitely depend on how the POs drove and treated it. and while it can be painful overcoming issues as they come up, at least you're sorting it and know what the story is going forward.

my ZHP/T has 233K KMs on it now, is 13 years old, and while the Touring part was a 1-owner car before i got it, i've had the drivetrain for over 4 years now, and have replaced a TON of stuff... but i'm confident it will hold up for the long haul, mechanically... i do have a window regulator to change, but that's aging car stuff. :)

[704sw]

Check out the project thread for sketchi. I have everything listed that I bought to replace the clutch and flywheel and rebuild the shifter assembly.

Now the weather is warm, I will be tacking this job.

You’re in VA, right? Any chance you want to team up and try knocking out 2 in 1 weekend?

[Vas]

You’re in VA, right? Any chance you want to team up and try knocking out 2 in 1 weekend?

Yup. Just up I-77 and then I-81 North. Roughly 4 hour trip.

I do not have a lift so my plan is jackstands and brute force. Done clutch jobs before on fwd vehicles but this is a first on a rwd bmw.

[slater]

...my plan is jackstands and brute force.

always a good tactic. ;)

having done this recently, the pain is still in my memory. :) really, it wasn't terrible - the hardest part is the uppermost passenger side bolt - you just can't see it, and you need the trickest wobble sockets/extension/u-joints available to get access. or tiny hands. i probably spent as much - or more - time getting that single bolt out/in than i did removing the rest of the bolts, and the trans itself.

the R&R of the clutch/PP/flywheel and doing the RMS is easy.

[Sockethead]

I wonder what the clutch replacement is going to be like with the supercharger & manifold in the way on the drivers side... I'm going to be really sad if I have to pull that 70lb bitch off... :(

[slater]

I wonder what the clutch replacement is going to be like with the supercharger & manifold in the way on the drivers side... I'm going to be really sad if I have to pull that 70lb bitch off... :(

you should be able to reach the starter bolts from underneath... but it won't be as easy. definitely easier to remove them than to reinstall them. ;)

[ZHPizza]

How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?

[holyc0w]

How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?

Have the governator bench press it

[704sw]

How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?

Peterman told me he used a transmission jack from HF. Problem is HF has like 5 different ones.

Hey Peterman! If you get a break from doing the drywall at the new McDonalds would you mind sharing which one?

[Vas]

How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?

Bench press it. Been practicing on the rear diff

[Prestovie]

Little update on the car topper, couldn’t find any felt paper or masking tape around the house(of course I put it off until 5mins before I had to leave for work) so I ended up grabbing a roll of shop towels and tried using those. Got to my first house for delivery and noticed it had almost slid off the car, it was on the edge of the rear window!
Wish I saw the plastidip idea sooner, had a can of that in the garage, but for now I just had to slap it on the roof bare, hurts my heart [emoji26] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180402/7b65de8f0e82939fc72a97f582b06208.jpg


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[az3579]

Little update on the car topper, couldn’t find any felt paper or masking tape around the house(of course I put it off until 5mins before I had to leave for work) so I ended up grabbing a roll of shop towels and tried using those. Got to my first house for delivery and noticed it had almost slid off the car, it was on the edge of the rear window!
Wish I saw the plastidip idea sooner, had a can of that in the garage, but for now I just had to slap it on the roof bare, hurts my heart [emoji26] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180402/7b65de8f0e82939fc72a97f582b06208.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJust for future reference, don't use any kind of paper towel product. That's guaranteed to scratch your paint. It's like sandpaper being dragged along the paint.

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[slater]

How do you lower the tranny without...like...dying? Floor jack and prayers?

the latter is always good. :)

the trans is actually not that heavy - maybe 80lbs. if i didn't have the trans jack i could have just lifted it into position.... but the HF trans jack i used was very helpful. what's not helpful is the ridiculously terrible access to the upper passenger side bolt.



Peterman told me he used a transmission jack from HF. Problem is HF has like 5 different ones.

Hey Peterman! If you get a break from doing the drywall at the new McDonalds would you mind sharing which one?

LOL...

here's the one i have... it's nice because you can roll it around easily, and then just lift it with the scissor jack into position. the white 'tray' on top can be angled and locked into a specific position:

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

you can also use it for lowering/raising the rear diff/subframe assembly - it was awesome for that.

[704sw]

the latter is always good. :)

the trans is actually not that heavy - maybe 80lbs. if i didn't have the trans jack i could have just lifted it into position.... but the HF trans jack i used was very helpful. what's not helpful is the ridiculously terrible access to the upper passenger side bolt.




LOL...

here's the one i have... it's nice because you can roll it around easily, and then just lift it with the scissor jack into position. the white 'tray' on top can be angled and locked into a specific position:

https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

you can also use it for lowering/raising the rear diff/subframe assembly - it was awesome for that.

Dude, I should’ve had that while doing the the rear subframe. I used dueling floor jacks, and it was friggin’ horrible. Granted I was doing it solo, and it was dark by the time I had everything apart...

[slater]

Dude, I should’ve had that while doing the the rear subframe. I used dueling floor jacks, and it was friggin’ horrible. Granted I was doing it solo, and it was dark by the time I had everything apart...

necessity is the mother of invention, right? :)

the first time i did it (with my sedan), i used my 3-ton floor jack and a strategically cut piece of 3/4" plywood to stabilize the rear end. it worked, but was not ideal. the trans jack was almost too easy. :)

[Prestovie]

Just for future reference, don't use any kind of paper towel product. That's guaranteed to scratch your paint. It's like sandpaper being dragged along the paint.

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[emoji854] whoops haha I should’ve figured, I was in a rush.
Once the weather gets warmer I’ll be compounding the roof anyway, had some scratches that looked like someone slid keys across the paint


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[joeybananaz18]

[emoji854] whoops haha I should’ve figured, I was in a rush.
Once the weather gets warmer I’ll be compounding the roof anyway, had some scratches that looked like someone slid keys across the paint


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What about clear contact paper? I remember having to use it to cover my text books in elementary school.


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[704sw]

Other than time required, is there any logical reason not to go ahead and tackle my oil pan gasket when I’m doing my SMF clutch conversion/RMS?

I might just take a day off work and make it a 3 day weekend job.

[Sockethead]

Normally when you use the engine support brace to do the oil pan, the transmission is bolted to the body via the trans mounts. My only concern would be without the transmission in place, your engine could literally fall out of the car. Now if your planning on doing after you bolt up the trans after doing the clutch... no worries..

[704sw]

Normally when you use the engine support brace to do the oil pan, the transmission is bolted to the body via the trans mounts. My only concern would be without the transmission in place, your engine could literally fall out of the car. Now if your planning on doing after you bolt up the trans after doing the clutch... no worries..

Yea that would be less than ideal...

I think I’ll do it another weekend. Clutch is a little more pressing, imo. It’s getting quite noisy.

[Prestovie]

Any idea of BMW has a warranty on their batteries? ZHP battery has been crapping out lately, was late to school today bc I had to jump it. Going in today to get a new one with the receipt


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[san]

When I took the battery out of the zhp when I put it in storage, I noticed that there was some powdered rust at the bottom of the battery compartment. It’s probably from the previous battery cause the current battery is pretty clean. I tried vacuuming but wasn’t very successful. What would be the best way to get the rust powder out? and since there is not rust on the body itself should I bother spraying something like rustoleum once I clean it or leave it as is?


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[Sockethead]

Clean it with baking soda ( sodium bicarbonate) solution to neutralize any acidic residue, dry it and hit it with some paint if you want

[san]

Clean it with baking soda ( sodium bicarbonate) solution to neutralize any acidic residue, dry it and hit it with some paint if you want

Awesome. Thanks Rob!


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[704sw]

Okay this thread is super active right now, so I have 2 more questions for the rear wheel bearing experts:

(1). Are the axle to diff e-torx single use, or can I reuse them?

(2). Do I need to replace the hubs, or should they come out damage-free? I’m okay ordering them just in case if that’s what I need to do.

[Sockethead]

The axle bolt are supposed to be single use acording to the Bentley manual but I can tell that the dealer doesn't replace them. I've used the same ones for the 4 times I've had my diff out... I do always torque to spec though

[san]

Okay this thread is super active right now, so I have 2 more questions for the rear wheel bearing experts:

(1). Are the axle to diff e-torx single use, or can I reuse them?

(2). Do I need to replace the hubs, or should they come out damage-free? I’m okay ordering them just in case if that’s what I need to do.

I’ve reused the axle to diff bolts 2 times and it’s been fine for the last 60k miles...


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[704sw]

Okay so I bought:

Valeo SMF clutch conversion kit, metal pivot pin, new fork (just in case), fork spring, crankcase gasket, rear main seal, exhaust gasket, clutch alignment tool.

Did I miss anything? How do I keep the flywheel from rotating when I tighten or loosen the bolts?

[YoitsTmac]

Okay so I bought:

Valeo SMF clutch conversion kit, metal pivot pin, new fork (just in case), fork spring, crankcase gasket, rear main seal, exhaust gasket, clutch alignment tool.

Did I miss anything? How do I keep the flywheel from rotating when I tighten or loosen the bolts?

I asked someone this and they said impact on low clutch setting


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[Vas]

Okay so I bought:

Valeo SMF clutch conversion kit, metal pivot pin, new fork (just in case), fork spring, crankcase gasket, rear main seal, exhaust gasket, clutch alignment tool.

Did I miss anything? How do I keep the flywheel from rotating when I tighten or loosen the bolts?

Post number 37

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21312-How-Long-did-your-Clutch-Last/page4&highlight=clutch

[704sw]

Post number 37

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21312-How-Long-did-your-Clutch-Last/page4&highlight=clutch

Word. I did the shifter rebuild/CSB/guibo/etc. when I did my rear subframe. Only thing on your list I didn’t pick up was the “shift rod seal.”

[Prestovie]

After about three years of ownership I just found out that the little cord in the glove box is actually a 12v port. The previous owner had a Griffin aux cord attachment in it so I always just assumed it was a wired aux to the back of the radio.
Reason I bring this up is because I was fiddling around with my glovebox today and my aux stopped working. Took out the newly discovered griffin 12v aux connector and found that is still flashes blue when plugged into the main 12v port in the dash, but still won’t play music. I then tried the opposite of that and put a phone charger in the glove box port and it wouldn’t work.
Any ideas?

[ZHPizza]

Can anyone recommend a good extractor for oil changes? This latest mess had me set on Fumoto valves for both cars, but then I thought that $80 could be used on a pretty sweet extractor instead and I wouldn't even have to get under the car. Granted, I only change the oil maybe twice a year per car, but this shit suxxxx:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180410/ea8a657d14bb68f16292a9ac71ade1b7.jpg

[slater]

what the heck??

[Yelkos]

Can anyone recommend a good extractor for oil changes? This latest mess had me set on Fumoto valves for both cars, but then I thought that $80 could be used on a pretty sweet extractor instead and I wouldn't even have to get under the car. Granted, I only change the oil maybe twice a year per car, but this shit suxxxx:



My appreication for your mechanic skills just took a hit.

I bought a $20.00 extractor from northern tool, runs off the battery.
take about 5 minutes and its a bit cleaner.

[Vas]

Struggle bus...

[ZHPizza]

what the heck??I ran a can of lubro moly engine flush through an already warm engine for 10 minutes and then drained it immediately. The oil was very, very thin and sprayed everywhere when the drain plug came out.

My appreication for your mechanic skills just took a hit.

I bought a $20.00 extractor from northern tool, runs off the battery.
take about 5 minutes and its a bit cleaner.Hah! I can fix damn near anything with all of the crazy problems I've been faced with in engineering jobs, but if I so much as look at an oil container, some amount of it ends up on the ground. It's inevitable.

Struggle bus...It was one of those "hour job turns into four because everything that could go wrong did" kind of days.

[704sw]

It was one of those "hour job turns into four because everything that could go wrong did" kind of days.

Murphy’s Law at work.

- - - -

Unrelated to Nate’s oil ineptitude, I have a question for those of you with LSDs. Which of the three (maybe more?) options did you choose, and why

-MFactory
-DiffsOnline
-M3 rear end conversion

M3 conversion seems to be the cheapest, but the gearing is really high.

Sub-question: helical or clutch-type?

[Sockethead]

I went with diffs on line for both of my LSDs...
1st one was on sale at Turner. He does all their diffs.
2nd one I bought off of Stu because the gearing was too high on the first one for my liking. I installed the first one in Charlie's car for him. Both are clutch type. If I remember right, both are a 3 disk setup with pretty steep ramping.
The 135 has an OS Giken in it.
If you're going to go FI at anytime in the future then M3 subframe swap would be the way to go. The rear diff mount on our subframes is the weak link when it comes to HP.

[Sockethead]

Can anyone recommend a good extractor for oil changes? This latest mess had me set on Fumoto valves for both cars, but then I thought that $80 could be used on a pretty sweet extractor instead and I wouldn't even have to get under the car. Granted, I only change the oil maybe twice a year per car, but this shit suxxxx:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180410/ea8a657d14bb68f16292a9ac71ade1b7.jpg

I Have a 3x3 aluminum drip pan for jobs like that.
You can also get a plastic "boot tray" for storing boots by your back door. I have one of those too. It's a little smaller and narrower than my aluminum tray They are great for that and any cooling system jobs where there is always something dripping outside the container your using...

[nextelbuddy]

Can anyone recommend a good extractor for oil changes? This latest mess had me set on Fumoto valves for both cars, but then I thought that $80 could be used on a pretty sweet extractor instead and I wouldn't even have to get under the car. Granted, I only change the oil maybe twice a year per car, but this shit suxxxx:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180410/ea8a657d14bb68f16292a9ac71ade1b7.jpg

I use the 7 liter one I got on amazon warehouse deals. for $50ish dollars

takes about 5 min to pull all the oil out.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJM14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



i found after 2 uses now, the best way to get ALL the oil is to jack the front of the car slightly to get the oil to the back of the pan near the dipstick tube.... remove the oil filter then extract.... when i did it this way.. .then removed the drain bolt. nothing was left to drain.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/39236192835_1c171246cb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22MaKan)IMG_20180206_214615 (https://flic.kr/p/22MaKan) by Shawn Robertson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/nextelbuddy/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/40135298511_6daef61f71_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/249BTXn)IMG_20180206_214206 (https://flic.kr/p/249BTXn) by Shawn Robertson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/nextelbuddy/), on Flickr


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwmZtsnv3mQ

[ZHPizza]

I use the 7 liter one I got on amazon warehouse deals. for $50ish dollars

takes about 5 min to pull all the oil out.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJM14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



i found after 2 uses now, the best way to get ALL the oil is to jack the front of the car slightly to get the oil to the back of the pan near the dipstick tube.... remove the oil filter then extract.... when i did it this way.. .then removed the drain bolt. nothing was left to drain.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/39236192835_1c171246cb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22MaKan)IMG_20180206_214615 (https://flic.kr/p/22MaKan) by Shawn Robertson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/nextelbuddy/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4631/40135298511_6daef61f71_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/249BTXn)IMG_20180206_214206 (https://flic.kr/p/249BTXn) by Shawn Robertson (https://www.flickr.com/photos/nextelbuddy/), on Flickr


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwmZtsnv3mQExactly what I was looking for and I couldn't remember who had tested/reviewed it. Thanks, Shawn!

[slater]

I ran a can of lubro moly engine flush through an already warm engine for 10 minutes and then drained it immediately. The oil was very, very thin and sprayed everywhere when the drain plug came out.
Hah! I can fix damn near anything with all of the crazy problems I've been faced with in engineering jobs, but if I so much as look at an oil container, some amount of it ends up on the ground. It's inevitable.
It was one of those "hour job turns into four because everything that could go wrong did" kind of days.

sorry man... that sucks.

i just use a large (2' diameter) pan, and hold it up under the drain bolt as i'm removing it. then slowly lower it down and walk away. :)



Unrelated to Nate’s oil ineptitude, I have a question for those of you with LSDs. Which of the three (maybe more?) options did you choose, and why

-MFactory
-DiffsOnline
-M3 rear end conversion

M3 conversion seems to be the cheapest, but the gearing is really high.

Sub-question: helical or clutch-type?

i had a full M3 rear end here that i was going to use, but i opted not to because of the M3 diff 'clunk' and not wanting to rebuild the diff. if you're not wanting to replace the entire rear end, don't go this route (you just went through all of this anyway, right?).

i chose MFactory helical. MFactory because they ran a promo and the price was great - about half of the diffsonline clutch type (they didn't offer a helical at that point in time).

helical because i wanted engagement only on acceleration - i wanted it to act like an open diff off throttle (better turn-in is the theory). also, helical because it is much more a 'set and forget' option - normal fluid changes and that is all the maintenance that is required.

[Sockethead]

Another thing to consider is whether the LSD diff will still drive the wheel on the ground if one wheel is lifted off the pavement... not all LSDs can do this... I forget exactly which types can or can't but it's something to consider if you track the car...

The OS Giken needs a lot of oil changes... I think it has like a 24 plate clutch pack

[cornercarver]

Okay so I bought:

Valeo SMF clutch conversion kit, metal pivot pin, new fork (just in case), fork spring, crankcase gasket, rear main seal, exhaust gasket, clutch alignment tool.
Interested in hearing how you like the SMF conversion... Please post driving impressions when you're done!

[slater]

Interested in hearing how you like the SMF conversion... Please post driving impressions when you're done!

if you don't want to wait... :) i've had it installed for about 4 months now. loving it - feels like new stock, but better - better engagement, no DMF clunkiness. nate and BP have both driven my car and can give their opinion also.

[cornercarver]

Another thing to consider is whether the LSD diff will still drive the wheel on the ground if one wheel is lifted off the pavement... not all LSDs can do this... I forget exactly which types can or can't but it's something to consider if you track the car...
A helical LSD locks both wheels together when one side is spinning faster than the other in a low-traction scenario.

Good video here - and the part about one-wheel-peel is around 4:00:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEiSTzK-A2A

[cornercarver]

if you don't want to wait... :) i've had it installed for about 4 months now. loving it - feels like new stock, but better - better engagement, no DMF clunkiness. nate and BP have both driven my car and can give their opinion also.
:thumbsup Sweet - thanks! Good to know because mine has about 60k on it...not that I expect it to go any time soon; the PO replaced it at ~60k miles (probably more likely that it was faulty than worn out.) Car has 126k now. SMF and clutch are on my 'upgrades' list now, along with a LSD.

Did you also do the CDV delete?

[ZHPizza]

:thumbsup Sweet - thanks! Good to know because mine has about 60k on it...not that I expect it to go any time soon; the PO replaced it at ~60k miles (probably more likely that it was faulty than worn out.) Car has 126k now. SMF and clutch are on my 'upgrades' list now, along with a LSD.

Did you also do the CDV delete?

PO was probably rough on the clutch if he replaced it that early. These things will last 300k easy if driven right.

Everyone should do CDV delete. No drawbacks to a proper functioning clutch pedal.

[az3579]

PO was probably rough on the clutch if he replaced it that early. These things will last 300k easy if driven right.

Everyone should do CDV delete. No drawbacks to a proper functioning clutch pedal.


I'm pretty much there and it's not even the clutch that's causing me grief; it's the flywheel and the throwout bearing. lol
I'm really curious how much longer the clutch itself would go. Too bad it won't get a chance to be tested; everything's getting replaced within a month or two.

[slater]

:thumbsup Sweet - thanks! Good to know because mine has about 60k on it...not that I expect it to go any time soon; the PO replaced it at ~60k miles (probably more likely that it was faulty than worn out.) Car has 126k now. SMF and clutch are on my 'upgrades' list now, along with a LSD.

Did you also do the CDV delete?

yeah, but i did it a long time ago. still need to do it on our X3.

the valeo SMF kit is exactly the same weight as the stock components, so it's not really a 'performance' upgrade but more of a 'preventative' upgrade. :)

LSD is absolutely one of the best upgrades - especially if you shorten the ratio to something like a 3.46. and you're fortunate to have diffsonline right next door!



Everyone should do CDV delete. No drawbacks to a proper functioning clutch pedal.

yeah. and to be honest, i had zero need for a clutch stop either until i drove BP's car recently, now i want one. :)

[ZHPizza]

yeah. and to be honest, i had zero need for a clutch stop either until i drove BP's car recently, now i want one. :)

I'm heading to the Great White North tomorrow so I'll see if I have one in the garage that I can throw in my bag and mail you from the hotel.

[slater]

I'm heading to the Great White North tomorrow so I'll see if I have one in the garage that I can throw in my bag and mail you from the hotel.

ha, cool!

[704sw]

LSD is absolutely one of the best upgrades - especially if you shorten the ratio to something like a 3.46. and you're fortunate to have diffsonline right next door!

I was thinking 3.38...shorter but not too short.

[holyc0w]

3.38 is almost the same as 3.46...eh

Wish it came a bit more aggressive from the factory

[slater]

I was thinking 3.38...shorter but not too short.

i've had 3.46 for 2-3 years now and i almost wish it was a 3.64 sometimes. ;)

[704sw]

i've had 3.46 for 2-3 years now and i almost wish it was a 3.64 sometimes. ;)

Crap, really? There’s a pretty clean 3.46 on my local Craigslist.

Dammit Spenser, you’ve spent enough lately!

[slater]

Crap, really? There’s a pretty clean 3.46 on my local Craigslist.

Dammit Spenser, you’ve spent enough lately!

hahahaha! a 3.46 open diff should be cheap - $150?

the 3.46 cruises nicely at highway speeds - 2950rpm @ 75mph.

[704sw]

hahahaha! a 3.46 open diff should be cheap - $150?

the 3.46 cruises nicely at highway speeds - 2950rpm @ 75mph.

Yea like $150-200. Plus another $1k for the inevitable MFactory it leads to down the road.

[slater]

Yea like $150-200. Plus another $1k for the inevitable MFactory it leads to down the road.

that's half the price of the diffsonline helical...

[cornercarver]

LSD is absolutely one of the best upgrades - especially if you shorten the ratio to something like a 3.46. and you're fortunate to have diffsonline right next door!
Holy crap! I didn't realize they're in Wilmington. Maybe I can talk them into giving me one for R&D. :p

The Mfactory stuff is definitely a lot less expensive though.

[YoitsTmac]

Be careful with 3.46’s. Aren’t the input flanges different? 4 bolt vs 6 bolt or something? This is something I paid a lot of attention to since I am doing a 6 speed swap. I read a few times that the 6 speed driveshaft won’t bolt right up. An auto 330’s 3.38 a different story. From my inspection at junk yards, it seems all non 330’s got one design and all 330’s got another. Some one prove me wrong?

[slater]

Be careful with 3.46’s. Aren’t the input flanges different? 4 bolt vs 6 bolt or something? This is something I paid a lot of attention to since I am doing a 6 speed swap. I read a few times that the 6 speed driveshaft won’t bolt right up. An auto 330’s 3.38 a different story. From my inspection at junk yards, it seems all non 330’s got one design and all 330’s got another. Some one prove me wrong?

yep, the input and output flanges are different. not hard to swap over from your stock diff. maybe 20min of work.

[YoitsTmac]

Fair enough. Just scary to me because there is no rated torque for that bolt. I will most likely get a 3.38 for the easy and the difference is like 2.3%. Just with my luck I wouldn’t get the input bolt tight enough. Murphy’s law

[BMWCurves]

Spenser, Shawn's got a 3.38 that I believe he quite likes.

[704sw]

Spenser, Shawn's got a 3.38 that I believe he quite likes.

Did the Z4 come in 3.38? Kinda want that sweet sweet finned bling, yo.

[YoitsTmac]

Did the Z4 come in 3.38? Kinda want that sweet sweet finned bling, yo.

Just weld thing pieces of metal right? :D

[ELCID86]

Spenser, Shawn's got a 3.38 that I believe he quite likes.

Yep. I love 3-4 gear. And 6 is awesome on the highway—not much Need to downshift at all. Great mod. Not sure I’d go past 3:46 but never driven a 3:64. It may not make that much difference at highway speed.

[Dual]

[QUOTE=nextelbuddy;558559]I use the 7 liter one I got on amazon warehouse deals. for $50ish dollars

takes about 5 min to pull all the oil out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJM14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc1

In the reviews for that pump, a fair number of reviewers report it failing and pumping oil out of the handle after 1-2 uses. Have you run into any problems?

[JohnnyGraphic]

[QUOTE=nextelbuddy;558559]I use the 7 liter one I got on amazon warehouse deals. for $50ish dollars

takes about 5 min to pull all the oil out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJM14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc1

In the reviews for that pump, a fair number of reviewers report it failing and pumping oil out of the handle after 1-2 uses. Have you run into any problems?

I’ve already gone through 2 MityVacs. I’m not too impressed. They leak after a short time and the way the rubber plug is designed, makes it difficult to drain the oil into another container to take to the auto parts store for recycling. They are a waste of money.

The EWK unit I bought is much better. Better design and user interface. Easier to use and dispose of the oil.

[ZHPizza]

[QUOTE=Dual;558692]

I’ve already gone through 2 MityVacs. I’m not too impressed. They leak after a short time and the way the rubber plug is designed, makes it difficult to drain the oil into another container to take to the auto parts store for recycling. They are a waste of money.

The EWK unit I bought is much better. Better design and user interface. Easier to use and dispose of the oil.This one?

EWK Pneumatic / Manual 6.5 Liter Oil Changer Vacuum Fluid Extractor Pump Tank Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD64H8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nANZAb1DVAMBG

[John in VA]

ECS Tuning offers a 6.5 liter Schwaben unit for a bit more than the EWK. Looks like Griot's rebrands it for an add'l $20:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/

[Dual]

FWIW I followed amazon reviews of the EWK unit to West Marine, which apparently sells the same device but sells parts for it after the sale, which can be helpful as things wear/break (which they apparently do):
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123

[Sockethead]

I think I got the schwaban one too... It's the exact same unit I've seen on several sites but they had the cheapest price at the time. I use it on our boat....

[az3579]

Does anyone know why this happens??
It happened on my E30 as well so it's not limited to just my ZHP...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180413/ac481426e8c4a1e94ed7ad6f0cadbaf1.jpg

Soaking wet (at the car wash) yet there's this unexplicable clear patch...

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[704sw]

Does anyone know why this happens??
It happened on my E30 as well so it's not limited to just my ZHP...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180413/ac481426e8c4a1e94ed7ad6f0cadbaf1.jpg

Soaking wet (at the car wash) yet there's this unexplicable clear patch...

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Isn’t it rubber residue left behind from the wipers? I think that’s what I read/heard somewhere. Idk, I haven’t used my wipers since I discovered RainX like 12 years ago.

[az3579]

Isn’t it rubber residue left behind from the wipers?
Is this a statement or a question? If it's indeed rubber residue, perhaps I need to scrub-a-dub-dub my windshield with some rubbing alcohol or something...


I haven’t used my wipers since I discovered RainX like 12 years ago.

Great for highway, but not so much for around-town. :(

I relate it to when I still had glasses; the smallest particles of dirt on the lenses would drive me nuts! Around town isn't going fast enough to make those water beads slide down fast enough.

I got a surprising amount of life out of using a synthetic sealant like my Menzerna PowerLock on my windshield back when the car was actually detailed. It behaved just like RainX on the highway, but around town, it would stand up to the abuse of the wipers being on. It lasted months this way.

[John in VA]

If it's indeed rubber residue, perhaps I need to scrub-a-dub-dub my windshield with some rubbing alcohol or something...
You can use a mild clay bar (along with soapy water or detailer spray) or 0000 steel or brass wool on your glass to remove contaminants.

[704sw]

Is this a statement or a question? If it's indeed rubber residue, perhaps I need to scrub-a-dub-dub my windshield with some rubbing alcohol or something...



Great for highway, but not so much for around-town. :(

I relate it to when I still had glasses; the smallest particles of dirt on the lenses would drive me nuts! Around town isn't going fast enough to make those water beads slide down fast enough.

I got a surprising amount of life out of using a synthetic sealant like my Menzerna PowerLock on my windshield back when the car was actually detailed. It behaved just like RainX on the highway, but around town, it would stand up to the abuse of the wipers being on. It lasted months this way.

It was a question and a statement. What I meant was “I think that’s caused by rubber residue.” Sealants/RainX work well for me “around town” because I’m in the suburbs. I can easily achieve speeds capable of getting the beads moving. As John suggested, start with a clay, and proceed with something more aggressive as needed.


You can use a mild clay bar (along with soapy water or detailer spray) or 0000 steel or brass wool on your glass to remove contaminants.

This. I’ve never been brave enough to use quad-aught steel wool, but I clay the glass twice a year.

[Sockethead]

I been using fine steel wool since the seventies... it's safe

[Karl Lazlo]

I been using fine steel wool since the seventies... it's safe

Chore Boy Copper Scrubbing Pads, that's what I use in my... Oh, wait, we
are talking about cleaning glass? Nevermind.

[JohnnyGraphic]

[QUOTE=JohnnyGraphic;558694]This one?

EWK Pneumatic / Manual 6.5 Liter Oil Changer Vacuum Fluid Extractor Pump Tank Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD64H8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nANZAb1DVAMBG

Yup! That’s the one. Very easy to use. It works much better than the MityVacs and versatile.

[Oltorf]

I changed the AC pressure sensor and all the refrigerant blew out (all over my hand and front of the car :facepalm ). Do I need to vacuum out the system now, or is just a regular refill ok?

[Sockethead]

Yes it needs to be purged of all air in the system by vacuum.

[Oltorf]

dang. ok thanks.

[Oltorf]

Would it be stupid or cool to take off the 330i badge and put on one that says "ZHP"?

[BMWCurves]

Would it be stupid or cool to take off the 330i badge and put on one that says "ZHP"?

Personally, keep the badging or maybe even debadge, but I’d avoid the ZHP badging.

Just my $0.02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Can anyone post the vert ZHP specs/options? Or, does anyone know if the 06 verts came with the alcantara steering wheels and boots? Thanks.

Question from our FB page. I wasn't sure.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[fredo]

Personally, keep the badging or maybe even debadge, but I’d avoid the ZHP badging.

Just my $0.02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1.

[ZHPizza]

Would it be stupid or cool to take off the 330i badge and put on one that says "ZHP"?Do whatever you want, dude. Could be cool, could be goofy. Up to you to decide if you like it. I thought about doing the same thing when I got the red car.

Can anyone post the vert ZHP specs/options? Or, does anyone know if the 06 verts came with the alcantara steering wheels and boots? Thanks.

Question from our FB page. I wasn't sure.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkI think every 06 got the perforated leather wheel

[danewilson77]

Do whatever you want, dude. Could be cool, could be goofy. Up to you to decide if you like it. I thought about doing the same thing when I got the red car.
I think every 06 got the perforated leather wheelMost likely leather boot as well, if that's the case.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Most likely leather boot as well, if that's the case.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkCorrectamundo. Looks like they all head perf leather wheel and seat colored leather shift boot.

[danewilson77]

Correctamundo. Looks like they all head perf leather wheel and seat colored leather shift boot.Thanks

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

I like a zhp badge, why not? Agree, verts came w/leather, but not 100% sure Alcantera was not available.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

I like a zhp badge, why not? Agree, verts came w/leather, but not 100% sure Alcantara was not available.

This 'vert in the FS section is an '06 with Alcantara seats & perforated leather wheel. http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21354-2006-zhp-vert-6sp-101k

My '06 coupe with Alcantara seats came with the perforated wheel & leather shift & e-brake boots. I swapped boots to Alcantara, because!

[Oltorf]

I think I'll skip the ZHP badge. Maybe get a black 330i badge instead. it's easier anyways.

[05Imola]

Anyone run these on their ZHP? I just picked up another ZHP and need control arm bushings badly. It's between these and the Z4M bushings. Car will be daily/autox/HPDE car

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/Control-Arm-Bushings/BimmerWorld-TrackCAB-Solid-Control-Arm-Mounts_2.html

[stephenkirsh]

I didn’t even click the link. Get Z4M.

[Vas]

Z4m

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[John in VA]

I didn’t even click the link. Get Z4M.
Are those the ones that position the wheel forward in the wheel well?

[BMWCurves]

Are those the ones that position the wheel forward in the wheel well?

Yes, a wee bit.

[stephenkirsh]

Yes. It’s only noticeable if you know to look for it and are facing the wheel perfectly.

I’ve had stock 18” wheels and 17”; no issues.

[holyc0w]

I was thinking of replacing the OFHG, alternator pulley, and oil dipstick. The dipstick is in preparation for the CCV kit.

Does the alternator pulley usually go wrong? I'm a complete noob and don't want to venture into things that will get me stuck. But the alternator has to come off for the OFHG anyway, right?

Any tips for fool-proofing this? Tools needed?

[Newjack]

I was thinking of replacing the OFHG, alternator pulley, and oil dipstick. The dipstick is in preparation for the CCV kit.

Does the alternator pulley usually go wrong? I'm a complete noob and don't want to venture into things that will get me stuck. But the alternator has to come off for the OFHG anyway, right?

Any tips for fool-proofing this? Tools needed?Alternator doesn't need to come out for the OFHG no. You can replace the pulley, stock is plastic but it doesn't tend to break. Unless your me and hit it with a rubber mallet trying to put in a new expansion tank and then yes you would need to replace it.

If you feel like replacing that pulley, you might as well install power pulleys if you don't have them. Best power mod I did to the ZHP, you really notice a difference.

Get rogue pulleys, they are the original. All other pulleys are copies of the rogue.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[holyc0w]

Yeah, I have the rogue pulleys on. I'll have to check if I have the right alternator pulley. I thought people were having issues with the replacement.

[stephenkirsh]

Today my coolant temp gauge was doing weird things. I turned on the on board digital read out in the test menu.

It would jump from 60 to 90 degree C or visa versa in about 1-2 seconds.

My thermostat is only 4 years old, and this behavior is not what I experienced when it got stuck open and would just stay too cold.

I’ve been having P0118 temp sensor error codes (this is the sensor under the intake manifold, not the fan switch in the lower rad hose).

I want to know if this problem I had today was just more symptoms of that sensor failing, or if this is related to the thermostat.

[az3579]

I want to know if this problem I had today was just more symptoms of that sensor failing, or if this is related to the thermostat.

Strong evidence pointing to a failing sensor. The thermostat would affect the actual operation of the car. The sensor would affect the operation of the gauge/OBD readings.

[holyc0w]

Alternator doesn't need to come out for the OFHG no. You can replace the pulley, stock is plastic but it doesn't tend to break. Unless your me and hit it with a rubber mallet trying to put in a new expansion tank and then yes you would need to replace it.

If you feel like replacing that pulley, you might as well install power pulleys if you don't have them. Best power mod I did to the ZHP, you really notice a difference.



? I watched some DIY videos and the alternator is coming out in each video. Alternator pulley seems to be steel.

[Dual]

I need to restore the clip at the front of my passenger kick panel-
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-10-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=51_4312
32754
I would like to order both the body-side and panel-side part for the frontmost attachment point.
Can someone tell me which parts I should order? Many thanks...

[Newjack]

? I watched some DIY videos and the alternator is coming out in each video. Alternator pulley seems to be steel.

My mistake, I was talking about the power steering pulley not the alternator pulley.

I did my OFHG without removing the alternator. Did mine and Justin's old 330i at the same time. It's not hard, just a lot of removing different pieces to get to the gasket.

[slater]

I need to restore the clip at the front of my passenger kick panel-
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-10-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=51_4312
32754
I would like to order both the body-side and panel-side part for the frontmost attachment point.
Can someone tell me which parts I should order? Many thanks...

is it loose at the top of the skirt, or underneath?

if the top, you want #5 and #2, but most likely #2 is still there in the body. how it works is that #5 actually snaps into a channel in the skirt, and then that plugs into #2, which sits in the body. what you don't want is for that channel to be broken in the skirt - then you either have to live with it, or replace the skirt.

[Dual]

is it loose at the top of the skirt, or underneath?

if the top, you want #5 and #2, but most likely #2 is still there in the body. how it works is that #5 actually snaps into a channel in the skirt, and then that plugs into #2, which sits in the body. what you don't want is for that channel to be broken in the skirt - then you either have to live with it, or replace the skirt.

Thanks much! My 5 has no 'nipple' as pictured so needs replacement. I will have to examine the skirt more carefully to see if it is intact! Much appreciated.

[JETSET303]

Any one running 18x8 18x9 with ET35? Have pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[holyc0w]

I did my OFHG without removing the alternator. Did mine and Justin's old 330i at the same time. It's not hard, just a lot of removing different pieces to get to the gasket.

Can you provide more details? I'm not sure how that can be done without removing the alternator.

[Sockethead]

Any one running 18x8 18x9 with ET35? Have pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/f356d4b2b579f67620ff09f231ec7880.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/e5e0aabdffe248461075f49994ae0ff5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/4ea0bd492273547fb63a406e55cb9c3d.jpg

[JETSET303]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/f356d4b2b579f67620ff09f231ec7880.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/e5e0aabdffe248461075f49994ae0ff5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/4ea0bd492273547fb63a406e55cb9c3d.jpg

Thank you for the pics. What tires are you running? Using spacers? And is your suspension stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

H&R sport springs, no spacers. Running Hankook ventus V12 Evo... which are narrower than the previous generation of the same tire. Fenders are rolled. Get occasional, minor rubbing with me, wife and two kids in the car going over big dips, etc.

[JETSET303]

H&R sport springs, no spacers. Running Hankook ventus V12 Evo... which are narrower than the previous generation of the same tire. Fenders are rolled. Get occasional, minor rubbing with me, wife and two kids in the car going over big dips, etc.

Thanks. Looking at a set of wheels. My suspension is stock for the moment but will be looking to upgrade, or at least refresh, in the near future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

I wouldn't go any further out than ET35... even with ET35, you're going to have to roll the fenders...

[ZHPizza]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/f356d4b2b579f67620ff09f231ec7880.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/e5e0aabdffe248461075f49994ae0ff5.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180426/4ea0bd492273547fb63a406e55cb9c3d.jpgThat's your rear fitment with 18x9 et35? Weren't you afraid of 18x9.5 et35??

[JETSET303]

I wouldn't go any further out than ET35... even with ET35, you're going to have to roll the fenders...

Hmmm. Anybody in Denver got a fender roller I can borrow? Lol.


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[Sockethead]

That's your rear fitment with 18x9 et35? Weren't you afraid of 18x9.5 et35??

Yes, the 9.5 ET35 is just a little too far. The the outer edge of the wheel on the 9.0 ET35 is about even with the outer edge of the fender. Another 1/4'' ain't going to cut it and I don't want to deal with aggressive camber and rubbing to make them fit.

[slater]

Yes, the 9.5 ET35 is just a little too far. The the outer edge of the wheel on the 9.0 ET35 is about even with the outer edge of the fender. Another 1/4'' ain't going to cut it and I don't want to deal with aggressive camber and rubbing to make them fit.

yep... and you're running a narrow 255 already.

and... the sectional width increases with a wider tire (it'll be wider on a 9.5" than on a 9"), so that sidewall angle increase will come into play (contact) more with the fender lip too.

we just all need M3 arches. :)

[holyc0w]

we just all need M3 arches. :)

Group buy?

[slater]

Group buy?

ha. there's always the hard motorsport flares... i might do those eventually.

[Sockethead]

If I do any flares, they will be welded in... I'll revisit that maybe in a couple of years.

Going to take the money I was using for the wheels and upgrade the heat exchanger for the Laminova cores in the super charger... going with a huge one for the Ford Lighting with dual cooling fans. It will take up the whole lower grille. I've noticed a pretty big drop off in performance once the ambient temperature goes above 75 and it's above 75 down here for a minimum of 9 months out of the year.

https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d490ba797ec9de9d17e947de3d.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/afc-80249nfs_58ac569e.jpg

[slater]

If I do any flares, they will be welded in... I'll revisit that maybe in a couple of years.

Going to take the money I was using for the wheels and upgrade the heat exchanger for the Laminova cores in the super charger... going with a huge one for the Ford Lighting with dual cooling fans. It will take up the whole lower grille. I've noticed a pretty big drop off in performance once the ambient temperature goes above 75 and it's above 75 down here for a minimum of 9 months out of the year.

https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d490ba797ec9de9d17e947de3d.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/afc-80249nfs_58ac569e.jpg

cool!


:ducking

[Newjack]

cool!


:ducking

get out

[Sockethead]

cool!


:ducking

I hope so! :)

[johnrando]

I just put on 18 x 8.5 ET 35.32759

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

Anyone tried this?

http://www.bowdensown.com.au/bowdens-own-onesie-buffing-suit

[Sockethead]

is that Biff in that suit? :)

[slater]

is that Biff in that suit? :)

LOL....!

https://gasstationburrito.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/biff-waxing.jpg

[cornercarver]

Anyone tried this?

http://www.bowdensown.com.au/bowdens-own-onesie-buffing-suit
OMFG that's funny.

[Karl Lazlo]

Anyone tried this?

http://www.bowdensown.com.au/bowdens-own-onesie-buffing-suit

911: "911, what's the nature of your emergency?"

Caller: "Yeah, hello. There's a guy... he's my neighbor and it looks like he's <stammer> he's <pause> humping his car."

911: "You are saying that a man is simulating a sex act with a vehicle?"

Caller: "Yeah. Humping."

911: "Can you provide a description of the man?"

Caller: "Sure. He's a white guy. Mid 40s. Gray hair, about six foot."

911: "What's he wearing?"

Caller: "He's wearing this weird tan suit."

911: "Like a business suit."

Caller: "No. He looks like a big stuffed animal fucking his car, it's a BMW. Black."

911: "What kind of BMW?"

Caller: "I don't know, I drive a CRV. I think it's a three series."

911: "Is it a ZHP?"

Caller: "Hell if I know. It has tinted windows. <yelling> ARE YOU SENDING HELP?"

911: "Yes, officers are on the way. Does it have a little wing on the trunk?"

Caller: "Hold one, let me look. <pause> Yeah, a little wing. On the trunk."

911: "Sounds like a ZHP. Sounds like what he is doing is lawful and reasonable. I'd have sex with my car, if it was a ZHP."

Caller: "WHAT?"

911: "Yeah, I know. It looks weird, but no crimes are being committed. He's taking care of his car. If he behavior changes to something dangerous, please call nine-one-one again. Thank you."

/CALL TERMINATED

[johnrando]

Lol

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[ZHPizza]

@Karl Lazlo lol i think it's time to go back to work bruh

[BMWCurves]

@Karl Lazlo lol i think it's time to go back to work bruh

Implying this isn’t his new job.


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[Karl Lazlo]

Implying this isn’t his new job.

Thank you, folks. I'll be here all week. Be sure to tip your waitstaff.

[NYRhockey]

Found my car today to have condensation on the left headlight....like, a lot. How critical is it to fix this? I imagine my seals / gaskets are leaking at which time i'd change the lenses as well, but is it something i can take my time doing or want to tackle asap as to not ruin the xenons?

[Newjack]

Found my car today to have condensation on the left headlight....like, a lot. How critical is it to fix this? I imagine my seals / gaskets are leaking at which time i'd change the lenses as well, but is it something i can take my time doing or want to tackle asap as to not ruin the xenons?

I would definitely get the water out as soon as possible, you might get some corrosion or even discoloraiton depending on how long you let the water sit and how much is in there.

Do you have a sedan? If you do maybe check the tabs and make sure everything is seated properly. Could be a simple fix without having to buy anything.

[NYRhockey]

OK, i brought the car in the garage and will try to start taking it apart (thank you, Youtube)

Here is the headlight. All that water you see is on the inside :(

32800

I checked the tabs and they all seem sealed properly, even the rubber piece sitting atop the headlight.

32801
32802

I have new lenses from Kohalty but not the gaskets / seals. I assume just get them at the same place?

[danewilson77]

OK, i brought the car in the garage and will try to start taking it apart (thank you, Youtube)

Here is the headlight. All that water you see is on the inside :(

32800

I checked the tabs and they all seem sealed properly, even the rubber piece sitting atop the headlight.

32801
32802

I have new lenses from Kohalty but not the gaskets / seals. I assume just get them at the same place?Not sure you can get the seals at Khoalty

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[az3579]

Headlight lens gasket:
Part number: 63128380210

They're about $25 online.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-headlight-lens-gasket-63128380210#fitment (for some reason says it's not compatible with 04/05 sedan but RealOEM says it is)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/headlight-sealing-gasket-priced-each/63128380210/ -- same P/N from ECS, which says it's compatible

[danewilson77]

Just installed that ATE brake kit a couple months back. Brake light came on yesterday. Upon closer inspection.... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180501/0d69a5c2a8fd770d909fcc635b1f0457.jpg

Anyone ever had luck properly splicing some thing like this?

Out

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[slater]

Anyone ever had luck properly splicing some thing like this?

it's just two wires... should be easy.

personally, i do away with the sensors altogether. too much hassle and i have my wheels off often enough to check anyway. :)

[anandoc]

Just installed that ATE brake kit a couple months back. Brake light came on yesterday. Upon closer inspection.... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180501/0d69a5c2a8fd770d909fcc635b1f0457.jpg

Anyone ever had luck properly splicing some thing like this?

Out

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I have spliced those two together not too long ago. I swapped my winter wheels and the wheel rubbed against the sensor wire and triggered the brake warning light. Its only 2 wires and its pretty simple to splice them together using some heat shrink.

[danewilson77]

:thumbsup
I have spliced those two together not too long ago. I swapped my winter wheels and the wheel rubbed against the sensor wire and triggered the brake warning light. Its only 2 wires and its pretty simple to splice them together using some heat shrink.

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[danewilson77]

it's just two wires... should be easy.

personally, i do away with the sensors altogether. too much hassle and i have my wheels off often enough to check anyway. :)I agree with this as well.

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[704sw]

it's just two wires... should be easy.

personally, i do away with the sensors altogether. too much hassle and i have my wheels off often enough to check anyway. :)

Do you just zip-tie them off to the side somewhere, or remove them altogether? The 135i sensor is different, so I was going to remove them completely —but— I wasn’t sure if the plastic housing where the wires snap together was water-tight enough to leave one end disconnected...

For right now, one is zip-tied to the strut, and the other is zip-tied to the trailing arm.

[Dual]

I agree with this as well.
Yeah.

[az3579]

The 135i sensor is different, so I was going to remove them completely —but— I wasn’t sure if the plastic housing where the wires snap together was water-tight enough to leave one end disconnected...

For right now, one is zip-tied to the strut, and the other is zip-tied to the trailing arm.

The fronts are the same as E46... I used my E46 sensors with my Performance set when I had them.
I did the same thing though; I just zip tied 'em to something and never worried about it again.

[704sw]

The fronts are the same as E46... I used my E46 sensors with my Performance set when I had them.
I did the same thing though; I just zip tied 'em to something and never worried about it again.

Should’ve specified: fronts are the same but won’t sit in the EBC pads for shit. Rears are different. Either way, like Peter said, I have the wheels off enough to check’em myself lol.

[ZHPizza]

When dropping the exhaust to do a shifter rebuild, do you need to replace any gaskets and such?

[704sw]

When dropping the exhaust to do a shifter rebuild, do you need to replace any gaskets and such?

Yea. But they’re only like $3/ea.? I might have an extra pair if you get in a bind.

I think I still have a pair of your delrin shifter bushings.

[Sockethead]

Only if you unbolt it from the manifolds... there are two gasket you need in that case

[slater]

When dropping the exhaust to do a shifter rebuild, do you need to replace any gaskets and such?

it's a good idea to replace the shifter selector rod gasket... they like to leak.

[mynamenumber]

I haven't been driving a lot lately. Weather just got warm and dryer. As of this afternoon, my steering feels significantly stiffer. Also, after turning, the wheel doesn't automatically return to center if I release my hands from it (to straighten out, not that I drive like that, of course) -- rather, I have to turn the wheel back to it's center.

I haven't checked the fluid. Hopefully it's just low fluid, maybe? What kind of fluid is best to refill with? I don't seem to have the records for what's in there right now.

Thanks!

[704sw]

I haven't been driving a lot lately. Weather just got warm and dryer. As of this afternoon, my steering feels significantly stiffer. Also, after turning, the wheel doesn't automatically return to center if I release my hands from it (to straighten out, not that I drive like that, of course) -- rather, I have to turn the wheel back to it's center.

I haven't checked the fluid. Hopefully it's just low fluid, maybe? What kind of fluid is best to refill with? I don't seem to have the records for what's in there right now.

Thanks!

Redline D4 ATF is what I used (same as I put in the 6MT).

[mynamenumber]

Thanks, 704sw.

Update with more detail:

-- I checked the ATF fluid and it was around the middle of the two markers. Adding a little raised the level fairly high, so I didn't add any additional.

-- There was dirty fluid around the cap and the sides of the canister.

-- Fluid inside does appear to be the 'right stuff,' in that it's bright red.

-- The steering is not consistently stiff. When driving, after a turn, the center position feels very hard to move out of, in either direction. however, once I do start a turn, it gets a bit easier, but then further into the turn, a bit harder again. The result is a weird lumpy feeling in the steering where a full spin of the wheel goes stiff-normal-stiff-normal.


Any thoughts? Is this more likely to be the pump? Anything else I can check? Thanks again!