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L0veZHP
10-17-2017, 11:29 AM
How much of a “lift” is recommended for winter time? Should I just adjust my coils all the way up? Lol


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Vas
10-17-2017, 12:28 PM
How much of a “lift” is recommended for winter time? Should I just adjust my coils all the way up? Lol


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Park it and get a winter beater.

Yelkos
10-17-2017, 12:30 PM
Move south and you can drive it all year long
in Charlotte we get 2-3 snowy days a year

704sw
10-17-2017, 12:35 PM
Move south and you can drive it all year long
in Charlotte we get 2-3 ICE days a year

Fixed that for ya’ :)

Yelkos
10-17-2017, 12:39 PM
HA, I stand corrected, you are 100% accurate.
thanks 704sw

704sw
10-17-2017, 02:26 PM
Anyone who’s done the steering guibo: can you confirm the bolts are E8 torx? I’ve seen a couple conflicting answers.

L0veZHP
10-17-2017, 02:27 PM
Ughh ima go alll the way up!! Jeep Wrangler Life!


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Vas
10-17-2017, 04:06 PM
Anyone who’s done the steering guibo: can you confirm the bolts are E8 torx? I’ve seen a couple conflicting answers.Hmm sounds right.

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Prestovie
10-17-2017, 07:26 PM
Ughh ima go alll the way up!! Jeep Wrangler Life!


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Doing the same thing I did last year again, I’m riding on unadjustable coil overs and didn’t run into any problems last year during the Chicago winter


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L0veZHP
10-17-2017, 07:31 PM
Doing the same thing I did last year again, I’m riding on unadjustable coil overs and didn’t run into any problems last year during the Chicago winter


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Been thinking about keeping my ride height the same too.. what coils do you run? I never really used my car like that in the winter but I have summer tires now so I have to switch it up. You think I should raise it up more tho? I’m lowered but I’m not slammed. Idk if it’s worth the time and money raising it up and then putting it back down when it gets warmer. It’ll be nice to have something different so when the summer comes and I drop and put my bbs back on I’ll be like 🤤🤤

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/340df1e606cf48bbec098da39e78541c.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/a85f1426509a9a3a19ac7bd296d662ba.png


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RUS_ZHP
10-17-2017, 08:07 PM
Anyone who’s done the steering guibo: can you confirm the bolts are E8 torx? I’ve seen a couple conflicting answers.If memory serves me well, E8 should be right. I've changed it last year, so I cannot be 100% sure.
I remember that I've struggled to remove guibo from the rack. There is steel to aluminum connection, which seized over time. It took me some time and work with various crowbars to pry guibo out. Plus I didn't have much room under the car since it was placed on the jack stands.

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holyc0w
10-17-2017, 08:09 PM
Ride height would depend on how much snow you want to plow. If you don't expect to be driving in deeper snow, you should be okay at current height.

cornercarver
10-18-2017, 08:33 AM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171018/340df1e606cf48bbec098da39e78541c.png

Which wheels do you have installed in this shot? Offset?

L0veZHP
10-20-2017, 03:02 AM
Which wheels do you have installed in this shot? Offset?

Sorry I don’t remember the offset but they’re vmr csl reps 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 back if I find out I’ll let you know


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cornercarver
10-20-2017, 08:42 AM
Got the Hotchkis front bar and Bimmerworld adjustable endlinks installed...

31255
31256

A friend of mine who knows E46's inside and out said he heard people with these bars have had the frame mounts fail when set on the stiffest setting and cornering aggressively... Anyone here experience this or hear the same kind of report? I've set it to the middle stiffness hole for the time being as I test out the balance with the rear bar (which is on the softer setting.)

Sockethead
10-20-2017, 08:53 AM
I know the rear rear sway bar mount are weak. I think Turner or bimmerwork sell a reinforcement for that but they need to be welded in

cornercarver
10-20-2017, 09:25 AM
The rear mounts actually come with a pretty hefty (maybe 1/4" or 3/8" thick) reinforcing plate which gets added to the back of the chassis bracket. This picks up the bottom hole, which doesn't exist on the oem bracket, and helps stiffen it. The front bar comes with a spacer to move the bar/ brackets down to clear the notch in the side of the frame, but doesn't reinforce the mount at all. In fact, it moves the bar 1/4" further away from the frame, and 1/4" further down on the bolts.

I think my friend's anectdotal evidence suggests that the mount or screws pull out of the frame. Doesn't the M3 have the same type of mounts?

Rear bar mount fwiw:

Sockethead
10-20-2017, 09:56 AM
That's cool... Nice to see that grease fitting in that mount too

cornercarver
10-20-2017, 11:43 AM
Did a little digging, found a few instances of failures... The front bar mount weakness has apparently been an issue with some E46 M3's and base models with larger bars on full-stiff. Now I'm worried... Going to change to the softest setting until I can get someone to do a little welding.

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=420445

ZHP_Brandon
10-21-2017, 08:40 AM
Is the E46 M3 front sway bar on our cars an actual upgrade? I know the MM are different and with new bushings even our OEM sway bars will feel drastically different.. but I don’t want to pony up on buying bushings for my stock 330 sway bar, if I can probably source an M3 one for rather cheap locally.

Let me hear your opinions!

I’ve also considered the UUC strutbarbarian but I don’t track my car at all


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Dual
10-21-2017, 08:59 AM
The ZHP front bar is actually lighter than stock. I don't know why, but someone here once ascribed it to BMW wisdom.

I went with a M3 bar and felt an immediate and substantial improvement in handling in my ZHP. Never looked back.

I have a stock ZHP bar you can have if you want it.

ZHP_Brandon
10-22-2017, 10:16 AM
The ZHP front bar is actually lighter than stock. I don't know why, but someone here once ascribed it to BMW wisdom.

I went with a M3 bar and felt an immediate and substantial improvement in handling in my ZHP. Never looked back.

I have a stock ZHP bar you can have if you want it.

I may have to consider that! I’ll be PM’ing you


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ZHP_Brandon
10-22-2017, 10:17 AM
Does anyone have a CarSoft or a peake SRS reset tool? After installing my E46 M3 seats, I managed to get the SRS light on my dash and PASoft won’t work to turn the light off


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ZHPizza
10-22-2017, 12:27 PM
Does anyone have a CarSoft or a peake SRS reset tool? After installing my E46 M3 seats, I managed to get the SRS light on my dash and PASoft won’t work to turn the light off


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat might be indicative of another problem. I've reset plenty of SRS lights through PA Soft.

Oltorf
10-22-2017, 06:21 PM
how much power can the 6-speed and rear end handle? Are there any upgrades for these parts? I'm assuming an M3 rear-end, but how about the tranny?

704sw
10-24-2017, 06:46 AM
Vibrations: okay, so my steering wheel is shaking like crazy. The severity is intermittent, but when it’s bad, it’s REALLY bad. Tramlining seems a lot worse lately, but the tires look to have plenty of meat left. It‘s really only bad above ~60mph. It gets terrible under acceleration or going uphill, gets better as I coast on flat surfaces, but gets terrible again if I’m coasting/under load on a downhill surface.

I don’t think it’s anything on the back end, since it’s MUCH more noticeable in the steering wheel than in the seats. Because it’s worse under load, I’m not thinking it’s a balance problem, but I’m leaning towards driveshaft guibo and/or engine mounts? Thoughts? I have a steering guibo ready to go in as well.

Replaced items include shocks, springs, end links, front control arms (FCABs are fairly new), tie rods, tranny mounts, and it was aligned last week (but still pulling right?)

Sockethead
10-24-2017, 06:52 AM
Are you running a square setup? If so, move the front tires to the back and see what happens...
One thing I've learned with these cars over the years is that they are really finicky when it comes to tires...

704sw
10-24-2017, 07:57 AM
Are you running a square setup? If so, move the front tires to the back and see what happens...
One thing I've learned with these cars over the years is that they are really finicky when it comes to tires...

It’s staggered, but I switched front left and right tires before the drive back from Ohio and it still pulls right. I don’t think I have a dragging brake, since the dust accumulation is even on both sides, and I can’t hear anything. Bad wheel bearing, perhaps?

Sockethead
10-24-2017, 08:00 AM
You'd hear a bad wheel bearing before it affected handing that bad... I wouldn't rule out a frozen caliper but there are so many things that can cause a vibration/handing issues

slater
10-24-2017, 08:47 AM
if it's vibrating under acceleration, then it's either in the drivetrain (engine/trans mounts or driveshaft), or the rear suspension. rear suspension issues on these cars can indeed manifest themselves as vibrations in the steering wheel...

since you mention the tramlining is increasingly worse, i would look at suspension over drivetrain mounts. did you replace the rear outer control arm bushings yet? if not, definitely a good idea, and go with the upper unit in the lower location too.

cornercarver
10-24-2017, 08:53 AM
You'd hear a bad wheel bearing before it affected handing that bad... I wouldn't rule out a frozen caliper but there are so many things that can cause a vibration/handing issues
Speaking of wheel bearing squeak - I noticed this when I had the car up recently; does it sound like a bearing or the pads/rotor?

https://youtu.be/uMZ98Sd6hEU

The pads/rotor aren't that worn, so I don't think it's the brake wear indicator.

I noticed a squeak while driving, but it's so faint compared to road noise that I can't tell if it's happening when the brakes are applied/not applied.

Newjack
10-24-2017, 09:09 AM
It’s staggered, but I switched front left and right tires before the drive back from Ohio and it still pulls right. I don’t think I have a dragging brake, since the dust accumulation is even on both sides, and I can’t hear anything. Bad wheel bearing, perhaps?

What suspension work have you done? Are the FCAB's new? Bent wheels?

I agree with Rob I don't think its the wheel bearing.

Something is out of alignment

704sw
10-24-2017, 09:36 AM
if it's vibrating under acceleration, then it's either in the drivetrain (engine/trans mounts or driveshaft), or the rear suspension. rear suspension issues on these cars can indeed manifest themselves as vibrations in the steering wheel...

since you mention the tramlining is increasingly worse, i would look at suspension over drivetrain mounts. did you replace the rear outer control arm bushings yet? if not, definitely a good idea, and go with the upper unit in the lower location too.


What suspension work have you done? Are the FCAB's new? Bent wheels?

Okay Rob and Peter, I drove home for lunch with the windows down, and while going slowly over my driveway curb I heard a distinct “clunk clunk” on the passenger side. Going slowly through the neighborhood I heard a faint metal on metal sound.

I didn’t replace the FCABs since Peter replaced them, and I’ve only put 9k on it since purchase. FCAs and tie rods were replaced in July, so I can’t imagine it’s a ball joint failure. And Rob, I don’t think the wheels are bent since the pulling was the same after the left-right tire rotation.

Peter—I’ve not done the rear bushings yet, but I do have them sitting on the shelf. During lunch I ordered the 7 diff+subframe bushings/flex disc/CSB/fluids. I figured I’d do all if that + rear arm bushings all at the same time. I also bought new engine mounts which I’ll preventatively swap when I do the OPG. I guess I’m going to order some Lemmy FCABs right now, and see if FCP can add it to my order before it ships out.

Sockethead
10-24-2017, 09:48 AM
I can't remember, are your sway bar end links new... and upper mount nut tight? They will make that sound going slow over bumps too...

704sw
10-24-2017, 09:53 AM
I can't remember, are your sway bar end links new... and upper mount nut tight? They will make that sound going slow over bumps too...

Yep, I swapped them out for the E36 M3 links from Dane in front of his house on Sunday. They’re pretty darn tight.

These are what Peter used. I’m not familiar with the brand, but it claims they’re poly.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-polyurethane-control-arm-bushing-front-armstrong-adus604

Vas
10-24-2017, 10:57 AM
Yep, I swapped them out for the E36 M3 links from Dane in front of his house on Sunday. They’re pretty darn tight.

These are what Peter used. I’m not familiar with the brand, but it claims they’re poly.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-polyurethane-control-arm-bushing-front-armstrong-adus604

I had poly fcab and then tried out the Z4m fcab.

Same feel.

I say ditch the poly and go with solid rubber

slater
10-24-2017, 11:01 AM
Okay Rob and Peter, I drove home for lunch with the windows down, and while going slowly over my driveway curb I heard a distinct “clunk clunk” on the passenger side. Going slowly through the neighborhood I heard a faint metal on metal sound.

interesting... clunk-clunk and metal on metal definitely aren't related. the clunk-clunk could be a loose strut top nut (the big guy), swaybar endlink, or ball joint... but i doubt the last two are the issue since you just replaced those.

it could potentially be a bad FCAB, but generally those manifest themselves as tugs in the steering wheel when you first apply the brakes...



These are what Peter used. I’m not familiar with the brand, but it claims they’re poly.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-polyurethane-control-arm-bushing-front-armstrong-adus604

i've used those on maybe 5-6 cars now - for my own and for friends, and they seem to hold up really well. they're an interesting design that should provide increased life and performance, while not being as 'stiff' as something like the AKG FCABs. i guess it's entirely possible one went bad? they are not hard to change; you could always swap them left-to-right (you should be able to press them out of the housings easily enough) and see if your pulling changes.

slater
10-24-2017, 11:03 AM
I had poly fcab and then tried out the Z4m fcab.

Same feel.

I say ditch the poly and go with solid rubber

my only beef with the Z4M FCABs is that they relocate the wheel further forward in the wheel well... it just looks weird to me. aside from that... the increased caster benefits should be totally worth it...... i actually have a set of these in the garage that i've been wanting to try. :)

Dual
10-24-2017, 12:29 PM
My trunk keeps moaning at me: something about the struts, and it's getting louder. Replace or lubricate? If the latter, where and with what?
Thanks...

Sockethead
10-24-2017, 12:32 PM
every e46 I've owned makes that noise lol

Hornung418
10-24-2017, 02:44 PM
If your trunk doesn't sound like a goose, there's a good chance you aren't driving an e46...

Dual
10-24-2017, 05:23 PM
OK guys, thanks! I think, LOL! Saved me money...

704sw
10-24-2017, 07:12 PM
Follow-up: does anyone rent this bad boy (or Koch equivalent), or should I just plan on buying my own?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018VAWETU/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1508901001&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pmd+bmw+tool

I’m renting the subframe tool from Shawn, but I’m thinking the rear arm bushings will be far too small for that tool.

stephenkirsh
10-24-2017, 08:41 PM
My trunk keeps moaning at me: something about the struts, and it's getting louder. Replace or lubricate? If the latter, where and with what?
Thanks...

LOL I just made a comment to Dustin about it being a Wookiee noise the other day.

They all do it.

ELCID86
10-25-2017, 02:32 AM
My trunk keeps moaning at me: something about the struts, and it's getting louder. Replace or lubricate? If the latter, where and with what?
Thanks...

Yep. Same here. :-(

ELCID86
10-25-2017, 02:33 AM
If your trunk doesn't sound like a goose, there's a good chance you aren't driving an e46...

:rofl

slater
10-25-2017, 03:36 AM
Follow-up: does anyone rent this bad boy (or Koch equivalent), or should I just plan on buying my own?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018VAWETU/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1508901001&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pmd+bmw+tool

I’m renting the subframe tool from Shawn, but I’m thinking the rear arm bushings will be far too small for that tool.

you can definitely use the koch tool for the rear arm bushings - i did - but it is a little tight. i ended up using a combination of bits from the koch tool and a large socket to 'pull' the new bushings (er, spherical bearings - they're not really bushings) in.

Newjack
10-25-2017, 04:29 AM
Yep, I swapped them out for the E36 M3 links from Dane in front of his house on Sunday. They’re pretty darn tight.

These are what Peter used. I’m not familiar with the brand, but it claims they’re poly.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-polyurethane-control-arm-bushing-front-armstrong-adus604

Get Z4M bushings and get BMW control arms.

704sw
10-25-2017, 07:37 AM
Get Z4M bushings and get BMW control arms.

Definitely not buying new control arms. I just bought new Lemforder ones 3 months ago. I’m definitely willing to entertain Z4M bushings.

Newjack
10-25-2017, 08:26 AM
Definitely not buying new control arms. I just bought new Lemforder ones 3 months ago. I’m definitely willing to entertain Z4M bushings.

If you just bought control arms then I wouldn't worry about it. I was under the impression you were planning to replace your arms due to old age.

Prestovie
10-25-2017, 08:33 AM
I think my climate control is starting to die. It won’t be hot out but I’ll crank the AC(w the snowflake button clicked) all the way up and I won’t feel anything come out of the vent. It works maybe every other day. The heat is what worries me now too going into winter, I just don’t feel the fan at all


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az3579
10-25-2017, 09:01 AM
I think my climate control is starting to die. It won’t be hot out but I’ll crank the AC(w the snowflake button clicked) all the way up and I won’t feel anything come out of the vent. It works maybe every other day. The heat is what worries me now too going into winter, I just don’t feel the fan at all


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Is the fan blowing? If so, did you open the vents all the way with the slider on the side?
If the fan isn't blowing, that's probably an issue with your blower motor.

John in VA
10-25-2017, 10:03 AM
It won’t be hot out but I’ll crank the AC(w the snowflake button clicked) all the way up and I won’t feel anything come out of the vent. It works maybe every other day. The heat is what worries me now too going into winter, I just don’t feel the fan at all.Tapatalk
Could be the final stage resistor (FSR) or wiring to it. If you turn up the fan speed and see the numbers of bars on the display increase but no increase in fan speed consider it. Many many DIYs available re: its replacement on here, E46Fanatics & YouTube.

ZHPizza
10-25-2017, 10:47 AM
Definitely not buying new control arms. I just bought new Lemforder ones 3 months ago. I’m definitely willing to entertain Z4M bushings.

This dude sells them pre-pressed yo

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1119519

holyc0w
10-26-2017, 01:32 PM
When is everyone planning on switching to winter tires?

I'm seeing some lows in the 30s this week with a 32 on Saturday. However the next week the lows move into the 40s. It's getting a bit close, but I think I'll plan for the week after and see how the forecast goes.

az3579
10-26-2017, 02:00 PM
When is everyone planning on switching to winter tires?


November 1st for me, no matter what.

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cornercarver
10-26-2017, 04:31 PM
When is everyone planning on switching to winter tires?
Probably sometime in December for me. I usually wait until the last possible day because I can’t stand how mushy the snow tires feel.

Prestovie
10-27-2017, 05:24 AM
Alright guys so my brother wanted to pull my spark plugs last night to check on them. Apparently they’re fuel fouled, not the biggest deal buts it’s an issue.
But that’s not the problem. The problem is that he obviously didn’t put everything back together properly, so this morning 10mins into driving I went to start her up to go to school from the parking lot and I start feeling misfire wobble. I legged it to school on 5 cylinders(which felt dreadful) and now I’ve got my car stuck here until my brother gets out of school.
Anyone ever experienced a misfire before?


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ZHPizza
10-27-2017, 05:31 AM
Alright guys so my brother wanted to pull my spark plugs last night to check on them. Apparently they’re fuel fouled, not the biggest deal buts it’s an issue.
But that’s not the problem. The problem is that he obviously didn’t put everything back together properly, so this morning 10mins into driving I went to start her up to go to school from the parking lot and I start feeling misfire wobble. I legged it to school on 5 cylinders(which felt dreadful) and now I’ve got my car stuck here until my brother gets out of school.
Anyone ever experienced a misfire before?


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Oh yeah. My last ZHP ran on 5 cylinders quite a bit. It would run lean and burn up coil packs all the time. My guess would be a loose coil pack. Pull the engine cover and push/wiggle them to see if that fixes it.

ELCID86
10-27-2017, 12:57 PM
When is everyone planning on switching to winter tires?

I'm seeing some lows in the 30s this week with a 32 on Saturday. However the next week the lows move into the 40s. It's getting a bit close, but I think I'll plan for the week after and see how the forecast goes.

Usually I wait on the weather. No snow in sight! ❄️

John in VA
10-27-2017, 02:24 PM
Usually I wait on the weather. No snow in sight! ❄️
There could be snow west of the divide on Sunday.

holyc0w
10-29-2017, 10:55 AM
Does anyone know the part number for the cap that should be here?
31314

Could it be 64538387437 or does this one look different?

704sw
10-30-2017, 01:49 PM
It’s probably a little late for me to be asking, but how stupid am I for doing all this work with the subframe dropped, and not having a reinforcement kit to add in there?

Hornung418
10-30-2017, 06:18 PM
It’s probably a little late for me to be asking, but how stupid am I for doing all this work with the subframe dropped, and not having a reinforcement kit to add in there?Unless you spot any immediate damage, or you plan on going the way of the Nextelbuddy, I would not worry about it. You can always just fill the void with the recommended foam if you feel the need down the road.

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704sw
10-30-2017, 07:12 PM
Unless you spot any immediate damage, or you plan on going the way of the Nextelbuddy, I would not worry about it. You can always just fill the void with the recommended foam if you feel the need down the road.

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Thanks Justin. I know the later years are supposed to be better, but I also know all E46s are susceptible.

Re: this bushing tool. I definitely it expected it to be a lot easier to use. I’ve only gotten 2 bushings out, and I’ve been working on it for longer than I care to admit.

slater
10-30-2017, 08:32 PM
Unless you spot any immediate damage, or you plan on going the way of the Nextelbuddy, I would not worry about it. You can always just fill the void with the recommended foam if you feel the need down the road.

foam isn't the answer... cars have failed with foam. it does not address the root of the problem.



Thanks Justin. I know the later years are supposed to be better, but I also know all E46s are susceptible.

Re: this bushing tool. I definitely it expected it to be a lot easier to use. I’ve only gotten 2 bushings out, and I’ve been working on it for longer than I care to admit.

are you using the koch tool? how do you have it setup? i removed all 4 of mine subframe bushes in about 10min.

as for the RACP... your car has the best fighting chance because it was built after 10/2004, so it has the factory reinforcement panel. this doesn't guarantee it won't fail, but it definitely helps.

the best solution is the VinceBar kit... it addresses the root of the problem and if you don't have any cracks in the RACP, you can install without VinceSkinz.

danewilson77
10-31-2017, 07:31 AM
Does anyone know the part number for the cap that should be here?
31314

Could it be 64538387437 or does this one look different?Tried (and failed) to find definitive P/N for this cap.

I think it's part of the pipe (i.e. Included with pipe p/n).

Sent from my S8+

holyc0w
10-31-2017, 07:46 AM
Tried (and failed) to find definitive P/N for this cap.

I think it's part of the pipe (i.e. Included with pipe p/n).

Sent from my S8+

Thanks, what's the pipe p/n?

May I get a close up picture of the cap?

This might be better for a junkyard search.

Hermes
11-02-2017, 08:52 AM
Cap comes with the pipe. Just go to an auto parts store and get a low side ac cap

Prestovie
11-02-2017, 05:07 PM
Quick question: how many people downshift in day to day life when coming to a stop? Dumb question I know, but my brother claims it’s better to neutral brake than engine brake, says it’s better to replace brakes than a clutch. Opinions?


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704sw
11-02-2017, 05:24 PM
Quick question: how many people downshift in day to day life when coming to a stop?

For me it depends on traffic (read: traffic dictates if I’m having fun. The turn lane into my neighborhood is on a decline, so I like to rev match into third, engine brake down the hill, and cook it through the turn. I typically only downshift/engine brake with third/fourth in my daily driving.

Edit: but yea pads are obviously a lot cheaper than a clutch.

ZHPizza
11-02-2017, 06:04 PM
Quick question: how many people downshift in day to day life when coming to a stop? Dumb question I know, but my brother claims it’s better to neutral brake than engine brake, says it’s better to replace brakes than a clutch. Opinions?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYour brother is technically correct, but I still review match downshift through the gears almost every stop since I sharked. It's just too much fun when the throttle is responsive.

Hornung418
11-02-2017, 06:55 PM
Rev matching is not going to kill a clutch. It does the opposite. Using the brakes and the engine in unison will keep the car in the right gear for acceleration.

It's not about revving to 6k and then adding the brakes. It's about slowing the car in gear to 2k and then shifting to the lower gear and repeating.

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L0veZHP
11-02-2017, 07:04 PM
I’m getting a manual swap next year.. keep talking guys lol I’m here reading everything and taking everything in. Anyone want to mention some mods I can do to a manual and a clutch while we talking about this? [emoji848] lol


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danewilson77
11-02-2017, 07:41 PM
Quick question: how many people downshift in day to day life when coming to a stop? Dumb question I know, but my brother claims it’s better to neutral brake than engine brake, says it’s better to replace brakes than a clutch. Opinions?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI downshift all of the time.

Sent from my S8+

slater
11-02-2017, 08:05 PM
Your brother is technically correct, but I still review match downshift through the gears almost every stop since I sharked. It's just too much fun when the throttle is responsive.

same and same. and same. rev-match double-clutch downshifting is one of my favorite things.

BMWCurves
11-02-2017, 09:02 PM
Yup, I do it plenty (even more now that I have my UUC TSE3 exhaust). From my understanding, if you're rev-matching properly, there's minimal added wear on the clutch, transmission, or the engine itself.

Hermes
11-02-2017, 10:53 PM
Use your brakes; they're cheaper than synchros

cornercarver
11-03-2017, 08:47 AM
Use your brakes; they're cheaper than synchros
Ditto.

I heel & toe fairly often but only when it has a purpose, and to maintain the skill. If you're just in traffic or coming to a stoplight there's no point. It's easier and cheaper to replace pads and rotors than to fix a transmission.

I don't double-clutch. Modern synchros have made this extra step obsolete. It just puts 2x the amount of wear on the clutch pedal/assembly.

slater
11-03-2017, 09:04 AM
Ditto.

I heel & toe fairly often but only when it has a purpose, and to maintain the skill. If you're just in traffic or coming to a stoplight there's no point. It's easier and cheaper to replace pads and rotors than to fix a transmission.

I don't double-clutch. Modern synchros have made this extra step obsolete. It just puts 2x the amount of wear on the clutch pedal/assembly.

there's maybe no point, but hey, i enjoy it. well worth the wear.

stephenkirsh
11-03-2017, 09:31 AM
My miata is a manual. I go into neutral to save gas and reduce wear on the throw out bushing.

I've done tests and over my 50 miles per day commute, I get 2-3mpg better. But I don't have an urban commute like most people.

Also, Miata clutches last forever, but the throw out bearing doesn't. Either way, it's a clutch job.

Dual
11-03-2017, 01:18 PM
ditto here
Ditto.

I heel & toe fairly often but only when it has a purpose, and to maintain the skill. If you're just in traffic or coming to a stoplight there's no point. It's easier and cheaper to replace pads and rotors than to fix a transmission.

I don't double-clutch. Modern synchros have made this extra step obsolete. It just puts 2x the amount of wear on the clutch pedal/assembly.

704sw
11-03-2017, 04:51 PM
I can put anti-seize on the bushings with metal sleeves (rear diff, rear arms), right?

I obviously know not to on the ones with exposed rubber.

san
11-03-2017, 04:59 PM
I can put anti-seize on the bushings with metal sleeves (rear diff, rear arms), right?

I obviously know not to on the ones with exposed rubber.

Yup, I did...


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Prestovie
11-03-2017, 07:57 PM
Fair points to all, nothing beats heal-toe on an open road.

Next question, bit more random. Just applied for a job as a delivery driver for a pizza place in my town starting December. I’m worried to say the least. One, worried about fitting pizzas and keeping them stable in the ZHP with the unadjustable coilovers I’ve got. Two, I don’t want my car to reek of pizza, it still has that factory “crayon” smell(pointed out to me by a friend and now I can’t stop thinking about it).
I’m hoping that I’ll be getting my college truck towards the end of December beginning of January, but that means a couple weeks of delivering in the ZHP. PLUS putting the magnet sign on the roof.
Opinions? I feel like not a lot of people have delivered pizza in their babies, so it’s a tough sale.


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L0veZHP
11-03-2017, 08:05 PM
You better man up and drive that ZHP! And deliver those pizzas!! Lol our cars are 15 Years old I know they’re are babies and stuff but I drive my car 365 days out the year winter or snow in nyc streets.. I work at a Bodega and sometimes pack my trunk with boxes and boxes of beers! Lol a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do! But in all seriousness maybe you can get a net or like a stand for the pizza in the back of your trunk?? And hey it’s just a couple of days it shouldn’t be too bad. Luckily your getting a truck.


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ELCID86
11-04-2017, 01:38 AM
If you are worried about the smell. Drive with the windows down ;-) or use the trunk. Or just don’t worry about it.

704sw
11-04-2017, 04:53 AM
Apologies in advance for what might be a few questions today.

Are these exhaust gaskets direction specific?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171104/c43c3b3b65a413601f15692924332975.jpg

BMWCurves
11-04-2017, 08:47 AM
I think they are, but when I pulled off the stock exhaust I could tell which way they went. Can't remember which way right now though.

holyc0w
11-04-2017, 12:05 PM
Tried (and failed) to find definitive P/N for this cap.

I think it's part of the pipe (i.e. Included with pipe p/n).

Sent from my S8+


Cap comes with the pipe. Just go to an auto parts store and get a low side ac cap

Thanks guys :cheers

I believe my part # may have been correct, but I stopped by the parts store and just got the cap there.

I'm guessing somebody had the refill done and the caps weren't put back on.

BMWCurves
11-04-2017, 02:03 PM
I got my valve cover off. That thing was seriously stuck on there and the VCG is very hard and brittle. In the process of getting the valve cover off, the brittle VCG snapped in some places. My question is...there are definitely pieces of rubber on the inner spark plug gasket area that chipped off and I think I have found most of them, but there might still be some lurking down somewhere. Just how bad is that? I'm worried they'll get churned up and slip down between a valve spring or worse.

Also, what do you guys do to clean the mating surface of the block? Brake cleaner?

ZHP_Brandon
11-04-2017, 02:12 PM
I got my valve cover off. That thing was stuck on there and the gasket is very hard and brittle. My question is...there are definitely pieces of rubber on the inner spark plug gasket area that chipped off and I think I have found most of them, but there might still be some lurking down somehwere. Just how bad is that? I'm worried they'll get churned up and slip down between a valve spring or worse.

I say an air compressor and a air hose with a fitting will help in this case, considering the spark plugs are still on to make sure none of the pieces find there way into another one of the cylinders. Otherwise use an old rag to block off the other cylinders while you gently blow the air around.

GL bud


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BMWCurves
11-04-2017, 02:18 PM
I say an air compressor and a air hose with a fitting will help in this case, considering the spark plugs are still on to make sure none of the pieces find there way into another one of the cylinders. Otherwise use an old rag to block off the other cylinders while you gently blow the air around.

GL bud


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I should rephrase. The portion of the VCG that surrounds the spark plug areas are what broke into bits, and if there are some still remaining, they're down below like by the cams (see below). I guess my largest concern is a piece blocking an oil return somewhere or something like that.

https://i.imgur.com/ebrc2BL.jpg

BMWCurves
11-04-2017, 05:43 PM
Also, is it not common to replace the VANOS housing intake and exhaust gaskets? There's no mention of replacing them in Beisan's guide.

ELCID86
11-05-2017, 12:09 PM
Also, is it not common to replace the VANOS housing intake and exhaust gaskets? There's no mention of replacing them in Beisan's guide.

He doesn’t include the Vanos gasket (any more?) but he does recommend doing it. There is another seller that includes it and it comes with Dr. V’s kit iirc.

BMWCurves
11-05-2017, 05:12 PM
He doesn’t include the Vanos gasket (any more?) but he does recommend doing it. There is another seller that includes it and it comes with Dr. V’s kit iirc.

Too late now. I'm surprised Beisan doesn't recommend it more specifically. I just missed it on my initial read through of the Beisan guide so I never ordered it with the VANOS seals.

san
11-05-2017, 05:15 PM
Too late now. I'm surprised Beisan doesn't recommend it more specifically. I just missed it on my initial read through of the Beisan guide so I never ordered it with the VANOS seals.

So you’re done replacing the vanos seals?


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BMWCurves
11-05-2017, 05:24 PM
So you’re done replacing the vanos seals?


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Yup. Finished a little while ago. Now I need to run the car. Fingers crossed.

704sw
11-05-2017, 05:26 PM
I know this has been covered more than once, but I’m seeing conflicting answers all over the place: what functions do/don’t work with the M3 cluster in our cars? I think a couple people here are running them...

ELCID86
11-05-2017, 05:57 PM
Too late now. I'm surprised Beisan doesn't recommend it more specifically. I just missed it on my initial read through of the Beisan guide so I never ordered it with the VANOS seals.

I️ agree. Or just include it at least as an option—it’s like a <$20 part, right?

san
11-05-2017, 07:00 PM
I know this has been covered more than once, but I’m seeing conflicting answers all over the place: what functions do/don’t work with the M3 cluster in our cars? I think a couple people here are running them...

I think if you get it from terra everything is functional including the warm up lights...


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BMWCurves
11-05-2017, 09:39 PM
I think if you get it from terra everything is functional including the warm up lights...


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The one I'm still hoping for (but know no one will do) is getting the shift lights. Terra said it required a whole new algorithm to work for our cars:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHSG_RZH5nc

704sw
11-06-2017, 04:24 AM
I think if you get it from terra everything is functional including the warm up lights...


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That would be TerraPhantm on here, yes?

san
11-06-2017, 04:39 AM
That would be TerraPhantm on here, yes?

Yes sir


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slater
11-06-2017, 04:52 AM
my beef with the M3 cluster is that the rev lights that stay illuminated (around 8K) are so dang bright. i get annoyed enough by the brightness of the blue high beam indicator, those rev counter lights being on all the time would drive me crazy. my eyes are stupidly light sensitive.

nextelbuddy
11-06-2017, 09:49 AM
I know this has been covered more than once, but I’m seeing conflicting answers all over the place: what functions do/don’t work with the M3 cluster in our cars? I think a couple people here are running them...

When I had the m3 cluster in my car with jus the M54.. everything worked except warm up lights. oil temp worked, cruise worked, DSC worked after recalibrating the steering angle sensor in INPA

you just gotta find one that has the same mileage as yours or lower. its very easy to adjust mileage UP usnig PASoft but if the mileage of the M3 cluster is higher than yours... then you will need to have someone solder to the PINs of the EEPROm chip and reflash it to revirginize it so that it can adopt the milage from your LCM


The one I'm still hoping for (but know no one will do) is getting the shift lights. Terra said it required a whole new algorithm to work for our cars:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHSG_RZH5nc

now that I have the S54 i was able to get the shift lights working since the MSS54HP DME supports that. it was just using hex code to change the code and reflashing.




That would be TerraPhantm on here, yes?

good luck, he hasnt been active much anywhere I have seen let alone taking on any new electronic retrofits of any type.


my beef with the M3 cluster is that the rev lights that stay illuminated (around 8K) are so dang bright. i get annoyed enough by the brightness of the blue high beam indicator, those rev counter lights being on all the time would drive me crazy. my eyes are stupidly light sensitive.

I believe the older M3 clusters had issues with that. but the newer 24H cluster I have auto dims day or night using the little tiny sensor in the LCM on my face plate. i can literally cover it with my thumb and the cluster gets dim and i let it go and it gets bright when the sunlight hits it.

BMWCurves
11-06-2017, 03:27 PM
I believe the older M3 clusters had issues with that. but the newer 24H cluster I have auto dims day or night using the little tiny sensor in the LCM on my face plate. i can literally cover it with my thumb and the cluster gets dim and i let it go and it gets bright when the sunlight hits it.

Interesting the gauge cluster light dimming not linked to the automatic headlights for its dimming feature.

ELCID86
11-06-2017, 05:17 PM
Terra is in Med school and I’m sure has his nose in the books. Try a PM. I️ have a cluster from him and do like it. Sometimes I️ forget everyone doesn’t have one in their ZHP.

BMWCurves
11-06-2017, 06:25 PM
Terra is in Med school and I’m sure has his nose in the books. Try a PM. I️ have a cluster from him and do like it. Sometimes I️ forget everyone doesn’t have one in their ZHP.

I really liked it when I drove your car. I'm just holding out for that (hopeless) shift light coding.

Prestovie
11-07-2017, 07:47 AM
Thanks for the input on the pizza, guys, I’ll probably head over to Ace Hardware this week and Jerry rig a net into my trunk bed


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ELCID86
11-07-2017, 04:23 PM
Thanks for the input on the pizza, guys, I’ll probably head over to Ace Hardware this week and Jerry rig a net into my trunk bed


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Why not use the BMW net? (I️ think I️ got mine from eBay. It had one broken hook which I️ drilled a whole thru and zip-tied to the built in anchor).

Prestovie
11-07-2017, 04:24 PM
Why not use the BMW net? (I️ think I️ got mine from eBay. It had one broken hook which I️ drilled a whole thru and zip-tied to the built in anchor).

Oh lol forgot they made that, I’ll look into it, thanks


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Vas
11-07-2017, 05:16 PM
Terra is in Med school and I’m sure has his nose in the books. Try a PM. I️ have a cluster from him and do like it. Sometimes I️ forget everyone doesn’t have one in their ZHP.You fancy...


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ZHPizza
11-07-2017, 08:39 PM
Thanks for the input on the pizza, guys, I’ll probably head over to Ace Hardware this week and Jerry rig a net into my trunk bed


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkFlip the carpet trunk liner over to the rubber side. Pizza won't move on the rubber.

slater
11-08-2017, 03:25 AM
Flip the carpet trunk liner over to the rubber side. Pizza won't move on the rubber.

this is your favorite mod! :)

too bad you can't do it on the Touring. ;)

BMWCurves
11-08-2017, 07:46 AM
this is your favorite mod! :)

too bad you can't do it on the Touring. ;)

AHA! Finally a mark against the touring!











I still desperately want one

slater
11-08-2017, 08:39 AM
AHA! Finally a mark against the touring!











I still desperately want one

hahaha.

i did take the mat from my sedan, flip it over, and put it in the Touring. ;)

stephenkirsh
11-08-2017, 03:00 PM
Anybody have a guess what pads these are?

They've held up grate for track use, so much so that one of my instructors who runs track pads on his m3 wanted to know what they are.

No numbers or identification of any kind in it :(

31353

ZHPizza
11-09-2017, 07:06 AM
this is your favorite mod! :)

too bad you can't do it on the Touring. ;)

Dang right! I still remember the look on your face when I showed you that trick back in January.

Biggest day of my life...the day that I taught Peter something new about the e46.....my wedding day was a close second...


hahaha.

i did take the mat from my sedan, flip it over, and put it in the Touring. ;)

Ah I'll have to try that when I get my wagon back. It's been at the transmission shop since August. Poor guy has pulled the tranny 3 times now chasing a tiny leak.

slater
11-09-2017, 07:15 AM
Dang right! I still remember the look on your face when I showed you that trick back in January.

Biggest day of my life...the day that I taught Peter something new about the e46.....my wedding day was a close second...

ha!!!

i still have lots to learn. :)



Ah I'll have to try that when I get my wagon back. It's been at the transmission shop since August. Poor guy has pulled the tranny 3 times now chasing a tiny leak.

since august? what the heck? where is it tiny-leaking from?

704sw
11-09-2017, 11:03 AM
My ambient temperature sensor is displaying a static +50°C. Is that just a bad sensor, or something more ominous?

slater
11-09-2017, 11:23 AM
My ambient temperature sensor is displaying a static +50°C. Is that just a bad sensor, or something more ominous?

bad sensor, or wiring problem. i replaced that sensor, and also the plug, because the wires were damaged too close to the plug - i spliced a new connector and extra wire in, with butt connectors - maybe check there first? i did wrap them very tightly in electrical tape (or i shrink-wrapped it), so if you find a bulge in the wiring, that's it. :)

or maybe a rock got kicked up and knackered the sensor? it does point itself downward, towards the front of the car at about a 45º angle. right behind the driver's side foglight, in the plastic tray.

anandoc
11-09-2017, 11:32 AM
My ambient temperature sensor is displaying a static +50°C. Is that just a bad sensor, or something more ominous?

I think its indicating copious amounts of rust build-up for your car in the future :headbang

704sw
11-09-2017, 12:05 PM
bad sensor, or wiring problem. i replaced that sensor, and also the plug, because the wires were damaged too close to the plug - i spliced a new connector and extra wire in, with butt connectors - maybe check there first? i did wrap them very tightly in electrical tape (or i shrink-wrapped it), so if you find a bulge in the wiring, that's it. :)

or maybe a rock got kicked up and knackered the sensor? it does point itself downward, towards the front of the car at about a 45º angle. right behind the driver's side foglight, in the plastic tray.

I’ll have to check it out tonight. It’s just strange that it is sitting at exactly 50.0°C unless it’s designed to do that intentionally.

Unrelated that *that* problem: is the ~3000-3300 stumble a vanos issue? It doesn’t do it in 1st or 2nd, but 3rd and up are really bad (progressively getting worse).

slater
11-09-2017, 12:33 PM
No, it reads 50°C if it does not have a reading from the sensor.

I don’t think that stumble is related to the Vanos. I’ve rebuilt the Vanos in my ZHP and it did not fix it.


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stephenkirsh
11-09-2017, 05:09 PM
Anybody have a guess what pads these are?

They've held up grate for track use, so much so that one of my instructors who runs track pads on his m3 wanted to know what they are.

No numbers or identification of any kind in it [emoji20]

31353

Small chance, but bump.

31353

Sockethead
11-09-2017, 06:29 PM
Hard to say what they are with no identifying marks on them. Can you tell if they were painted at all? Aftermarket will sometimes paint the steel backing plate

stephenkirsh
11-09-2017, 08:01 PM
Nope, no colors I can see :(

nextelbuddy
11-09-2017, 10:06 PM
ugh... someone talk me out of this.... Sedan CF roof skin (replaced the steel roof) in CSL weave

about $722.93 + shipping from over seas. its the same guys that make the CF airbox going on my car.

im shooting for this for next year.

https://www.geoffsteel.co.uk/shop/e46-grp-2-door-roof-skin-3/

31359

johnrando
11-09-2017, 10:20 PM
Purdy

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cornercarver
11-10-2017, 05:38 AM
Small chance, but bump.

31353
I bet if you show that image to a performance brake pad supplier who really knows his stuff, he'd be able to tell you which product it is.

Sockethead
11-10-2017, 08:06 AM
ugh... someone talk me out of this.... Sedan CF roof skin (replaced the steel roof) in CSL weave

about $722.93 + shipping from over seas. its the same guys that make the CF airbox going on my car.

im shooting for this for next year.

https://www.geoffsteel.co.uk/shop/e46-grp-2-door-roof-skin-3/

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31359&stc=1
Talk to Charlie... he has one for his M

BMWCurves
11-11-2017, 10:25 AM
Who all uses Liqui Moly oil? I'm considering going down the FCP Euro lifetime warranty on their oil route, so I want to start with something good, and that seems to be their best oil.

Vas
11-11-2017, 12:12 PM
Who all uses Liqui Moly oil? I'm considering going down the FCP Euro lifetime warranty on their oil route, so I want to start with something good, and that seems to be their best oil.I am using it on both of the cars.

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BMWCurves
11-11-2017, 12:49 PM
I am using it on both of the cars.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

:thumbsup

Vas
11-11-2017, 01:37 PM
:thumbsupPichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171111/af4fb1a4c637ddcbd16e46c39d55d19c.jpg

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fredo
11-11-2017, 02:38 PM
+1. That's my Indy's brand. :roundel

Vas
11-11-2017, 03:51 PM
+1. That's my Indy's brand. :roundelCar is due for an oil change in the next 900 miles. I will be sending out the oil to Blackstone for testing.

Also I have been using the oil additive from liquid moly.

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joeybananaz18
11-11-2017, 07:02 PM
ugh... someone talk me out of this.... Sedan CF roof skin (replaced the steel roof) in CSL weave

about $722.93 + shipping from over seas. its the same guys that make the CF airbox going on my car.

im shooting for this for next year.

https://www.geoffsteel.co.uk/shop/e46-grp-2-door-roof-skin-3/

31359

Thats an awesome price but if shipping becomes astronomical, i came across these guys here in the states. I almost bought their s54 sedan.
https://store.langracing.com/bmw-e46-4-door-carbon-fiber-roof-panel/

704sw
11-12-2017, 06:54 AM
Anyone know if the AC Schnitzer tower bars fit non-Ms? I know some mfrs say “M specific,” and others do not.

fredo
11-13-2017, 09:02 AM
My car came with 2 wheel lock keys. I just noticed one is missing. Maybe my Indy used it and forgot to put it back. If I loose the second one, I will be SOL.

Is it possible to replace the missing key ?

slater
11-13-2017, 10:41 AM
My car came with 2 wheel lock keys. I just noticed one is missing. Maybe my Indy used it and forgot to put it back. If I loose the second one, I will be SOL.

Is it possible to replace the missing key ?

shouldn't they all be the same? if so, i've got a bunch here...

fredo
11-13-2017, 11:31 AM
shouldn't they all be the same? if so, i've got a bunch here...

Apparently, there are 30 different keys. The number is stamped on the key itself. Mine says 18. Do you have that available ?

BMWCurves
11-13-2017, 07:19 PM
Anyone know if the AC Schnitzer tower bars fit non-Ms? I know some mfrs say “M specific,” and others do not.

I would think they would be fine, but I couldn't say for sure.

slater
11-14-2017, 05:49 AM
Apparently, there are 30 different keys. The number is stamped on the key itself. Mine says 18. Do you have that available ?

i haven't found 18 yet, but i have two 13's. :) i think i still have a couple more...

Prestovie
11-14-2017, 05:22 PM
Anyone ever find rust forming in the seat brackets? Looked down yesterday and noticed this on the right side of my drivers side seat https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171115/db94e02262a1321f1b6588d4171ddce7.jpg
Compared to the left one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171115/1909f5b3d9d3d8c2cf25521c106211c2.jpg
Please ignore the filth of my car, my boots track leaves in like none other


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Fenrir
11-14-2017, 06:23 PM
Anyone ever find rust forming in the seat brackets? Looked down yesterday and noticed this on the right side of my drivers side seat https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171115/db94e02262a1321f1b6588d4171ddce7.jpg
Compared to the left one
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171115/1909f5b3d9d3d8c2cf25521c106211c2.jpg
Please ignore the filth of my car, my boots track leaves in like none other


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI have never see that before. Hrrm. Possibly tracking in winter road salt on your shoes? *It's a long stretch I know*

Sent from a blue police box.

holyc0w
11-14-2017, 08:23 PM
How difficult is it to do a wrap on something like steering wheel trim?




Anyone ever find rust forming in the seat brackets? Looked down yesterday and noticed this on the right side of my drivers side seat

Yes

ZHPizza
11-15-2017, 05:20 AM
How difficult is it to do a wrap on something like steering wheel trim?


It's surprisingly easy with sandpaper, heat, and patience.

https://i.imgur.com/igGG4PS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Tus1feo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/47Rw9lB.jpg

I wrapped over the little M badge and then cut around it, which didn't come out very well. Next time I'll pry the badge off and glue it back after I'm done wrapping.

holyc0w
11-15-2017, 09:05 AM
It's surprisingly easy with sandpaper, heat, and patience.

What's the sandpaper for? Getting rid of the prior coating?

John in VA
11-15-2017, 01:06 PM
What's the sandpaper for? Getting rid of the prior coating?
Yes, removing the coating on the plastic.

ZHPizza
11-15-2017, 01:55 PM
What's the sandpaper for? Getting rid of the prior coating?


Yes, removing the coating on the plastic.

Yep. I wanted to be sure that it was smooth so I just sanded until all of the black was gone. It took forever.

L0veZHP
11-15-2017, 02:43 PM
Hey guys quick question. It’s about Recalls. Are they free? And can I do them at any BMW Dealership?


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L0veZHP
11-15-2017, 02:47 PM
Is the E46 M3 front sway bar on our cars an actual upgrade? I know the MM are different and with new bushings even our OEM sway bars will feel drastically different.. but I don’t want to pony up on buying bushings for my stock 330 sway bar, if I can probably source an M3 one for rather cheap locally.

Let me hear your opinions!

I’ve also considered the UUC strutbarbarian but I don’t track my car at all


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I’ve gone threw like 3 bars. I found the UUC Strutbarbarian the best one. I currently have Dinan. I have an OEM M3 one I think.. I painted it black. Let me know I don’t mind just giving it to you if you want it. I also have a rear. If you want. I have to find them [emoji848] but I’m sure I know where they are


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holyc0w
11-15-2017, 02:48 PM
Yep. I wanted to be sure that it was smooth so I just sanded until all of the black was gone. It took forever.

So not required, or better be safe than sorry?


Hey guys quick question. It’s about Recalls. Are they free? And can I do them at any BMW Dealership?


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Yes they are free, and in theory they can be done at any dealership. They need to be contacted beforehand.

704sw
11-15-2017, 02:52 PM
So not required, or better be safe than sorry?

Wrap is a lot thinner than most people realize—not much heavier than aluminum foil. If it’s not smooth as a baby’s ass, you’ll see the texture through the wrap.

PdZHP
11-15-2017, 04:23 PM
Wrap is a lot thinner than most people realize—not much heavier than aluminum foil. If it’s not smooth as a baby’s ass, you’ll see the texture through the wrap.

↑ So very true. I just wrapped my M3 side mirror bases black to see how they would look and you can see some faint texture of the rock chips underneath. I think it looks good for the cost and I can revert back to silver when I change my mind again.

holyc0w
11-18-2017, 02:35 PM
I broke off the tab for the MAF connector. Will it hold fine without the tab?

It seems like it should, but I'm not sure long-term.

danewilson77
11-18-2017, 05:35 PM
I broke off the tab for the MAF connector. Will it hold fine without the tab?

It seems like it should, but I'm not sure long-term.Yes. Fine

Sent from my S8+

BMWCurves
11-18-2017, 09:41 PM
I broke off the tab for the MAF connector. Will it hold fine without the tab?

It seems like it should, but I'm not sure long-term.

Did that to mine :facepalm

It's been holding on fine since I did it back in December.

holyc0w
11-18-2017, 09:43 PM
I break every tab I touch. :facepalm

Sockethead
11-19-2017, 06:52 AM
I break every tab I touch. :facepalm

Because BMW.... I sweat every time I go to disconnect something made of plastic

BMWCurves
11-19-2017, 08:09 AM
Because BMW.... I sweat every time I go to disconnect something made of plastic

I think that is my least favorite part of working on a 10+ year old BMW, the heat-cycled plastic. It's like my car has age-induced osteoporosis.

holyc0w
11-20-2017, 08:12 PM
I seem to have some more missing plastic in my MAF too. Didn't really think too much until I started looking at MAF pictures online. I don't seem to have the plastic guard with the BMW logo. I'm not sure what happened there or recall if I saw it there before. Uhhh.... :scratchinghead

This guy on youtube also had his go missing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkOSFYeG90g

az3579
11-20-2017, 08:30 PM
I seem to have some more missing plastic in my MAF too. Didn't really think too much until I started looking at MAF pictures online. I don't seem to have the plastic guard with the BMW logo. I'm not sure what happened there or recall if I saw it there before. Uhhh.... :scratchinghead

This guy on youtube also had his go missing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkOSFYeG90g

The BMW logo isn't present on aftermarket units. Plus, the car in the video is a MY 2000 pre-facelift car, so it's a different MAF than what we have on our 330's.

holyc0w
11-20-2017, 09:02 PM
The BMW logo isn't present on aftermarket units. Plus, the car in the video is a MY 2000 pre-facelift car, so it's a different MAF than what we have on our 330's.

Are you talking about this part?
31468

It seems to be pictured on all the MAFs, though there's a real possibility that's not a bmw symbol.

az3579
11-21-2017, 06:05 AM
No, I thought you were referring to the top flat part where the connector goes in. My bad.

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slater
11-21-2017, 06:37 AM
I think that is my least favorite part of working on a 10+ year old BMW, the heat-cycled plastic. It's like my car has age-induced osteoporosis.

any old car will be the same way, it has nothing to do with BMW... :)

you get used to handling those bits with extra finesse.

az3579
11-21-2017, 12:44 PM
you get used to replacing those bits


Fixed

stephenkirsh
11-21-2017, 02:59 PM
any old car will be the same way, it has nothing to do with BMW... :)

you get used to handling those bits with extra finesse.

My 22 year old miata has far less broken plastic and rubber bits than my zhp. And 40,000 more miles.

704sw
11-21-2017, 03:58 PM
My 22 year old miata has far less broken plastic and rubber bits than my zhp. And 40,000 more miles.

I’m already sold on adding a Miata to the stable, you can stop trying to convince me.

holyc0w
11-21-2017, 05:08 PM
Fixed

:rofl

slater
11-22-2017, 05:00 AM
My 22 year old miata has far less broken plastic and rubber bits than my zhp. And 40,000 more miles.

weird. but it probably has far less plastic, anyway. also, you live in a much more consistent-temperature climate, it's the hot-cold-hot-cold-hot-cold that kills plastic.

holyc0w
11-23-2017, 03:12 PM
Wrap is a lot thinner than most people realize—not much heavier than aluminum foil. If it’s not smooth as a baby’s ass, you’ll see the texture through the wrap.

I'm also reading that the adhesive could pull the coating off the trim if you need to re-adjust the wrap.

fredo
11-24-2017, 04:12 PM
I want to refresh the suspension on my 2005 ZHP with 145k miles. I have most of the service recs since 2005, and I can see only this has been done to the suspension:

@ 90k miles : front control arm bushings (FCABs)
@ 126k miles : rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs)

I'm thinking this FCP suspension kit plus new FCABs should help my car big time:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-front-suspension-kit-e46-zhp-oem-33500429577

Any thoughts or suggestions ?

Sockethead
11-25-2017, 07:29 AM
Probably needs FCAB by now. I just did my front control arms at around 143k and the old ones were still in great shape same with the RTAB. You might want make sure they are truly worn out before spending the time and money for replacements.

holyc0w
11-25-2017, 09:31 AM
+1

Some sort of inspection would be recommended. The swaybar could also be fine, though that should be checked along with the end-links. End-links are more likely to be worn and cheaper.

That kit also doesn't have the strut mounts and rear shock mounts. That would be recommended along with the reinforcement pieces.

stephenkirsh
11-25-2017, 10:07 AM
weird. but it probably has far less plastic, anyway. also, you live in a much more consistent-temperature climate, it's the hot-cold-hot-cold-hot-cold that kills plastic.

Both cars are 100% California cars. Both spent plenty of time parked outside. One car is 2x older with 1/2 the frequency of plastic breakage.

BMWCurves
11-25-2017, 10:36 AM
I want to refresh the suspension on my 2005 ZHP with 145k miles. I have most of the service recs since 2005, and I can see only this has been done to the suspension:

@ 90k miles : front control arm bushings (FCABs)
@ 126k miles : rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs)

I'm thinking this FCP suspension kit plus new FCABs should help my car big time:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-front-suspension-kit-e46-zhp-oem-33500429577

Any thoughts or suggestions ?

I agree with the previous posters. As I said earlier, it depends how far you want to go for your suspension refresh. Personally, I'd do as much as I could at once so you wouldn't have to think about parts for another 50k miles minimum. Things you might consider:


Shocks/struts: I have Koni Yellows and have nothing but high praise for them (except for the manner of adjusting the rear shocks is a bit tedious.
If you want a top-adjustable Koni Sport rear shock, you can use the ones meant for the Porsche 911 (part no. 82101159SPORT). This means the shocks won't have to be removed to be adjusted. I'm not 100% if any modifications are necessary to get the shock to fit or not). They're currently set at 3/4 turn from full soft and in my opinion it's a great balance of performance and daily comfort i.e. much more comfortable than my completely worn factory Sachs shocks, yet still better at damping as well. Other members have the Koni FSDs, and I'm sure you can't go wrong with them either. Plus, Koni supposedly has a great warranty and they shouldn't wear out on you like Sachs shocks do after about 50k miles.
Shock/strut mounts: Replace these while you're in there. For the rear mounts, I'd suggest the Rogue Engineering ones. They cost a pretty penny, but they're much beefier than OEM and once they're installed you don't have to rip up your trunk to replace the shocks in the future, they're accessible from the wheel well.
Strut tower reenforcement/rough road plates: cheap insurance to help against mushroom tower deformation.
Z4M FCABs: I like them for the extra castor and solid rubber. Factory-spec rubber would be fine, but they're gel-filled I believe.
Z4M RTABs: paired with Vorshlag poly limiters. Peter will chime in and tell you about the Bimmerworld spherical RTABs. I was too lazy to wait for him to install them and give me his thoughts, but if I were to do it again, I'd probably go that route.
Springs: wholely dependent upon your goals. I kept stock springs because they're the right mix of comfort and performance and as much as I'd like a bit of a drop in my car, where I drive has far too many driveways and things that I would scrape my front bumper on if I lowered my car.
Front and rear sway bar end links
Front and rear sway bar bushings
Spring pads front and rear: mine were old and cracked. Worth replacing
Dust boots front and rear: optional, just pieces of plastic. One of mine was ripped at 50k miles.
Bump stops front and rear: I replaced them because I was in there, but mine were in perfectly decent shape at 50k miles.

I'm sure there are other items people will suggest, but that's my list. You can read more in my 50k miles suspension refresh here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16182-Help-with-Suspension-Refresh-at-50k-miles-10-years

danewilson77
11-25-2017, 05:20 PM
Has anyone ever seen a pulley with this kind of wear?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171126/d576461543e73bddd08c4e941246e055.jpg

Sent from my S8+

ELCID86
11-25-2017, 05:22 PM
Yowser. What does the belt look like?

danewilson77
11-25-2017, 07:55 PM
Yowser. What does the belt look like?Belt looked fine. I've never seen a pulley do this. This was on Billy's ZHP (longrangekiller)

Sent from my S8+

fredo
11-25-2017, 08:21 PM
Thanks for the input about my question. I won't buy the suspension refresh kit for now. I will discuss with my Indy first.

ELCID86
11-26-2017, 06:13 AM
Belt looked fine. I've never seen a pulley do this. This was on Billy's ZHP (longrangekiller)

Sent from my S8+

Me either. Seems very odd that would/could happen (especially with no belt damage).

Dual
11-26-2017, 06:38 AM
My 22 year old miata has far less broken plastic and rubber bits than my zhp. And 40,000 more miles.
Yeah, my previous car was a 1993 Porsche 968 and I never had issues with plastic failing. Sold it last year.

If I had to guess, I'd ascribe all this plastic failure to reformulation to meet environmental or recyling targets. It would be interesting to learn how much this is a problem with other 12-16 year old cars now.

Sure pisses me off, but I've learned not to breathe on my car when I'm working on it.

Dual
11-26-2017, 08:52 AM
I have lost track of the thread here concerning the PCV upgrade that is now under development: the device that goes where the oil filter is and helps avoid "peanut butter" caused by condensation. Some prototypes have been shipped to useres here and elsewhere. Can someone please let me know where the discussion is? Thanks in advance....

WOLFN8TR
11-26-2017, 09:09 AM
It's the German Auto Solutions one.

G.A.S. CCV Replacement is in early release!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=14392&share_tid=19732&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fs howthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D19732&share_type=t

Dual
11-26-2017, 09:39 AM
Thanks!!

BMWCurves
12-05-2017, 11:11 PM
For coupe owners: if you replaced your side markers due to fading or damage, what did you replace it with, Genuine BMW? Or a cheaper option, like ULO (that is on sale right now: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-turn-signal-assembly-left-clear-63136920731)?

Part numbers are as follows:
left - 63136920731
right - 63136920732

John in VA
12-06-2017, 08:29 AM
For coupe owners: if you replaced your side markers due to fading or damage, what did you replace it with, Genuine BMW? Or a cheaper option, like ULO (that is on sale right now
ULO is the manufacturer of most of the lights of this vintage. If you buy from FCP and if they will replace them for no charge when they begin to dull/yellow I'd go with the BMW ones. I haven't changed mine yet, but the BMW ones are just a few dollars more.
BMW Part Number 63136920731/732
Part Name FLASHER
MSRP $36.97
Online Price from dealers with internet sales ~$29.58 (getbmwparts.com)

az3579
12-06-2017, 08:32 AM
If you buy from FCP and if they will replace them for no charge when they begin to dull/yellow...

They will. They'll replace any part for any reason. Because of this, I'm not sure it's really worth paying a few bucks more for what is essentially the same part, but at least the price difference is small enough where you have choice. :thumbsup

san
12-06-2017, 09:27 AM
They will. They'll replace any part for any reason. Because of this, I'm not sure it's really worth paying a few bucks more for what is essentially the same part, but at least the price difference is small enough where you have choice. :thumbsup

“Hey it’s been 100k miles since I replaced the cooling system on my car and even though nothing failed, I’d like to replace all of them cause it will fail pretty soon”

So this is a valid reason too? I mean the part doesn’t have to fail?


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704sw
12-06-2017, 10:41 AM
William, I got pretty good results using a headlight resto kit on my sidemarkers. I’ll probably end up replacing them with smoked ones just so I don’t have to deal with yellowing, but it’s still a toss up.

az3579
12-06-2017, 12:30 PM
“Hey it’s been 100k miles since I replaced the cooling system on my car and even though nothing failed, I’d like to replace all of them cause it will fail pretty soon”

So this is a valid reason too? I mean the part doesn’t have to fail?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct. That was the exact question I asked them when I was there to pick up parts one day. They said yes.

san
12-06-2017, 12:47 PM
Correct. That was the exact question I asked them when I was there to pick up parts one day. They said yes.

Awesome!


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Newjack
12-06-2017, 12:55 PM
William, I got pretty good results using a headlight resto kit on my sidemarkers. I’ll probably end up replacing them with smoked ones just so I don’t have to deal with yellowing, but it’s still a toss up.

How much was the kit? I recently replaced my ECS tuning knock off clear sidemarkers with OEM BMW ones and it was night and day. Knock offs served their purpose, but they were really fading, yellowed and the gasket was completely gone just leaving behind the plastic.

sillieidiot
12-06-2017, 01:18 PM
i just replace with OE. It takes like 3-4 years to yellow on my car so whatever. And they are a lot cheaper than how much they used to be.

704sw
12-06-2017, 01:20 PM
How much was the kit? I recently replaced my ECS tuning knock off clear sidemarkers with OEM BMW ones and it was night and day. Knock offs served their purpose, but they were really fading, yellowed and the gasket was completely gone just leaving behind the plastic.

Oof, I’m not sure. Maybe $30? I bought it from Costco several years ago to improve my mom’s Lexus headlights. Of course they were replaced as part of a recall a year later. My kit is made by Meguiar’s.

BMWCurves
12-06-2017, 06:36 PM
Thanks for the info and opinions, gentleman! My side markers are yellow, but the gaskets are cracking as well so I figured it was time to replace them wholesale instead of trying to restore them. I'll probably go BMW.

Mless5
12-07-2017, 06:35 AM
Can anyone confirm that shifter boot part # 25117919219 already comes with a plastic frame? Thanks.

704sw
12-07-2017, 06:38 AM
Can anyone confirm that shifter boot part # 25117919219 already comes with a plastic frame? Thanks.

Based on the pictures it sure looks like it does.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171207/45f9fd10eeb1256a3000d671dc84e436.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171207/f9c982e9f621b4eaa30b7654f0586179.jpg

Sockethead
12-07-2017, 09:06 AM
When I bought an OEM replacement alcantara boot from the dealer, it had the frame

az3579
12-07-2017, 09:38 AM
I think all the OE boots come with frames. I couldn't find a part number for just the frame (which is ridiculous) when I was looking a while back. :(

Mless5
12-08-2017, 07:52 AM
When I bought an OEM replacement alcantara boot from the dealer, it had the frame

Thank you.

704sw
12-08-2017, 07:57 AM
I think all the OE boots come with frames. I couldn't find a part number for just the frame (which is ridiculous) when I was looking a while back. :(

I don’t think you can buy it separately, right? I eventually found a MT E46 at the pull yard and sourced it from there.

slater
12-08-2017, 08:55 AM
I don’t think you can buy it separately, right? I eventually found a MT E46 at the pull yard and sourced it from there.

i thought you used the existing frame? because i went to put that Blue Car Boot on the other day, and.... no frame. bollocks. :)

but i have old boot lying around, so i'll just use that.

704sw
12-08-2017, 09:06 AM
i thought you used the existing frame? because i went to put that Blue Car Boot on the other day, and.... no frame. bollocks. :)

but i have old boot lying around, so i'll just use that.

I reused mine yea, but when I was at the pull yard and saw a MT I snagged it. Didn’t want to play that game twice in case I went the F10 route...which I did. Kind of.

704sw
12-10-2017, 10:33 AM
Has anyone used The Retrofit Source's ZKW-R clear lenses? Not sure what the issue is, as TRS' Mazda3 clear lenses were perfect. I bought the ZWK-R for the X3 back in 2015, and had to shave them down because they were too big. TRS told me I ordered the wrong one, but I didn't. I ordered them for the ZHP, made damn sure to order the right ones, and once again they're too big. This pic is showing my X3 factory lens beside the new TRS clear lens. Both cars use AL E46 projectors.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4575/24099828197_b90341b754_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CHBVig)

holyc0w
12-20-2017, 06:59 PM
I got the Corsa axleback exhaust. Should the rubber grommets be replaced when it is installed?

san
12-20-2017, 07:16 PM
I got the Corsa axleback exhaust. Should the rubber grommets be replaced when it is installed?

I didn’t


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BMWCurves
12-20-2017, 08:36 PM
I didn’t


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Me neither.

Prestovie
12-23-2017, 10:49 PM
How long do you guys let your cars idle in the morning? Chicago weather is dropping temp and I’m just wondering if I’m helping or doing more harm by letting it idle for 5mins or so. I’d always thought that it helps bring everything up to temp, but I’ve been wrong before


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BMWCurves
12-24-2017, 12:30 AM
About 30 seconds at most. I just shift at low RPMs until it's warm.

John in VA
12-24-2017, 02:42 AM
How long do you guys let your cars idle in the morning? Chicago weather is dropping temp and I’m just wondering if I’m helping or doing more harm by letting it idle for 5mins or so. I’d always thought that it helps bring everything up to temp, but I’ve been wrong before.
Those were the olden days, with carburated cars. Now, like BMWCurves stated, you just let it warm for a short time.

az3579
12-24-2017, 06:32 AM
The car warms up a lot faster by driving it. Idling it is just wearing the motor unnecessarily.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Prestovie
12-24-2017, 01:46 PM
Thanks so much guys, that’s what I was beginning to figure out, good to have some other input than my brothers dismissive mechanic talk(“yea it can do damage but it’s whatever”)


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danewilson77
12-24-2017, 02:37 PM
How long do you guys let your cars idle in the morning? Chicago weather is dropping temp and I’m just wondering if I’m helping or doing more harm by letting it idle for 5mins or so. I’d always thought that it helps bring everything up to temp, but I’ve been wrong before


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkZero

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

holyc0w
12-25-2017, 11:02 AM
Thanks so much guys, that’s what I was beginning to figure out, good to have some other input than my brothers dismissive mechanic talk(“yea it can do damage but it’s whatever”)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://www.businessinsider.com/heres-what-idling-your-car-in-the-morning-is-doing-to-your-engine-and-its-not-good-2016-1

NYRhockey
12-25-2017, 12:20 PM
I only idle mine for a few seconds and then drive it gently until it reaches normal temperature but, for example, my wife likes to remote start her car ('12 Grand Cherokee) so the interior / seats warm up so involuntarily the engine is probably getting unnecessary wear.

holyc0w
12-25-2017, 07:01 PM
The little HK speaker cover on the door had some sort of residue on it which I tried to wipe down. I think it exposed the metal. Is this cover replaceable, or how would I go about trying to paint it?

ELCID86
12-26-2017, 05:35 PM
^iirc Jon Jupiter used a special pen from a hobby shop.

L0veZHP
12-27-2017, 05:50 PM
So I was checking and thinking of getting a new daily. Leasing maybe a Toyota CH-R. A Toyota CH-R out of personal preference. So....

The lease cost $2,000 down and $150 a month. I find that super good for a daily for me.

So now my ZHP. I’m actually thinking of a manual swap. My friend had a ZHP manual transmission and ECU. Later on down like in 1-2 years I’ll get a S54 Swap. Sounds good right??

... so here’s the other thing. For my daily I want an automatic. I was looking at an Audi S3 pretty fast, nice, small, and modern. Cost around $32,000-$35,000 loaded, with around 10k miles. I like the 4 doors the automatic for daily the all wheel drive for snow. I’m thinking I can probably afford this and sell my ZHP and just deal with one car. And mod my Audi slowly and etc..

Do you guys think it’s worth it? For the Audi S3? A nice 2014-2016 one. Im just scared of missing my ZHP and maybe even missing BMW.

But I do feel like I need a upgrade. Or should I be satisfied with the Toyota CHR and make the ZHP into something? Probably sell the ZHP and get coupe e9x in the future too.. who knows.. just want to see what you guys say about the S3

What do you guys think


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fredo
12-27-2017, 07:28 PM
I would keep the zhp as a weekend car. You know its history, what needs to be done, no surprises waiting for you. I’m not familiar with the options you presented (Toyota vs Audi). But an Audi sounds more appealing.

az3579
12-27-2017, 07:54 PM
You live in NYC - keeping two cars isn't very practical. Parking is damn near impossible most of the time.
Stick with one car, IMO.

stephenkirsh
12-28-2017, 09:02 AM
Do you work on your own cars? I've heard anything from VW is impossibly difficult to work on.

slater
12-28-2017, 10:18 AM
Do you work on your own cars? I've heard anything from VW is impossibly difficult to work on.

yep. after owning/driving/wrenching audis for 10 years, that is one of two major reasons why i don't drive them anymore.

stephenkirsh
12-28-2017, 10:24 AM
What makes them so difficult?

Sockethead
12-28-2017, 10:36 AM
I remember hearing on the older A4s, you had to remove the whole front clip to swap out the water pump....I wanted an A4 until I heard that and then bought my 1st E46

slater
12-28-2017, 10:54 AM
What makes them so difficult?

see below. :)



I remember hearing on the older A4s, you had to remove the whole front clip to swap out the water pump....I wanted an A4 until I heard that and then bought my 1st E46

that's exactly right - a cooling system/timing belt job involves the same. they actually have what the shop manual calls 'service position' - basically removing the entire front clip. which leads to stephen's question - PACKAGING. due to the AWD system, they have to cram so much stuff up front (and the motor sits so far forward), that it's just a packaging nightmare.

my E46 experience has been that it out handles and out brakes the audis in the snow, and with an LSD and DSC, it's 'good enough' for acceleration traction.

the 50/50 weight distribution helps a lot with snow handling and braking.

BMWCurves
12-28-2017, 11:16 AM
I’ll second packaging issues. I watched our mechanic work on our ‘93 S4 and dear lord that did not look fun. The V8 S4s are basically engine out for timing chain issues.

Maintenance difficulties aside, I will state I LOVED our C4 S4 in the snow. It was nothing short of a beast when it had a good set of winter tires.

Icy inclines? Hit that locking differential and scramble up that bitch with aplomb.

Deep powdery snow? Use those four rings on the grille as a snow plow and practically glide over the slow with that decent ground clearance.

Your tushie too cold? Blast your bottom in the front OR back seats with 6 levels of heat that goes from “is this thing on?” To “sear your ass like a nice filet mignon”

Handling in the dry was not perfect, and nose heavy is an understatement.


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stephenkirsh
12-28-2017, 11:20 AM
Seems odd that BMW has no problem sticking AWD in the e46 platform but Audi had to stick the engine so far forward.

slater
12-28-2017, 11:38 AM
I’ll second packaging issues. I watched our mechanic work on our ‘93 S4 and dear lord that did not look fun. The V8 S4s are basically engine out for timing chain issues.

Maintenance difficulties aside, I will state I LOVED our C4 S4 in the snow. It was nothing short of a beast when it had a good set of winter tires.

Icy inclines? Hit that locking differential and scramble up that bitch with aplomb.

Deep powdery snow? Use those four rings on the grille as a snow plow and practically glide over the slow with that decent ground clearance.

Your tushie too cold? Blast your bottom in the front OR back seats with 6 levels of heat that goes from “is this thing on?” To “sear your ass like a nice filet mignon”

Handling in the dry was not perfect, and nose heavy is an understatement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the C4 was the easiest audi to work on, for me. i had my C4 S6 for 4 years. and for all 4 of those years i spent way too much brainpower trying to figure out how to re-engineer the front suspension to work properly. i should have bought an E46 and enjoyed myself. :)

in my mind, BMW can do all of those good things above with their XI platform, while maintaining good handling.

.....i guess you could say that i'm not a fan of audi anymore. ;)



Seems odd that BMW has no problem sticking AWD in the e46 platform but Audi had to stick the engine so far forward.

well, BMW ran the half shafts through the oil pan, so that they could keep the engine and trans where they should go... an ingenious solution in my opinion.

az3579
12-28-2017, 11:40 AM
well, BMW ran the half shafts through the oil pan, so that they could keep the engine and trans where they should go... an ingenious solution in my opinion.

Ingenius only until you have to replace a halfshaft. :)

slater
12-28-2017, 11:41 AM
Ingenius only until you have to replace a halfshaft. :)

still easier than replacing one in an audi. :)

az3579
12-28-2017, 11:43 AM
still easier than replacing one in an audi. :)

Won't have to worry about the half shaft because you'll have a slew of other things CEL-related to work on. :rofl

L0veZHP
12-28-2017, 12:26 PM
You live in NYC - keeping two cars isn't very practical. Parking is damn near impossible most of the time.
Stick with one car, IMO.

I actually have space for parking at my parents place so I don’t mind


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johnrando
12-28-2017, 02:25 PM
I like the way Audi's look but a mechanic friend of mine swears off them.

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John in VA
12-28-2017, 05:12 PM
I like the way Audi's look but a mechanic friend of mine swears off them.
A mechanic buddy of mine loves VAG products because they need so much work! He says all German cars out of warranty can eat you alive though.

joeybananaz18
12-31-2017, 06:55 AM
Does anyone know if M3 seat covers fit over the standard sedan seats? There are upper and lower cinnamon covers for a drivers seat that need some good leatherique treatment and if they would fit over my sedan driver, tracking down a second one for the passenger side would make my ultimate goal of a cinnamon interior more attainable.

704sw
12-31-2017, 07:57 AM
Does anyone know if M3 seat covers fit over the standard sedan seats? There are upper and lower cinnamon covers for a drivers seat that need some good leatherique treatment and if they would fit over my sedan driver, tracking down a second one for the passenger side would make my ultimate goal of a cinnamon interior more attainable.

The ones on eBay down in Gainesville? If so, those look pretty rough to me (this is coming from someone lusting over a cinny interior). I don’t think they’ll fit non-M seats though.

joeybananaz18
12-31-2017, 08:16 AM
The ones on eBay down in Gainesville? If so, those look pretty rough to me (this is coming from someone lusting over a cinny interior). I don’t think they’ll fit non-M seats though.

Those are the ones. Yea they definitely need some help. I was considering taking it on as a project but if there's a 100% chance they won't fit I'll just walk away from it.


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704sw
12-31-2017, 08:27 AM
Those are the ones. Yea they definitely need some help. I was considering taking it on as a project but if there's a 100% chance they won't fit I'll just walk away from it.

Someone else here is more of an expert, no doubt, but for $110 I’m sure you could easily reclaim your money if either (a) they don’t fit, or (b) the outcome isn’t what you’d hoped.

Have you thought about buying a grey M3 seat to go along with the cinnamon cover? Those things go dirt cheap because it’s such an undesirable color.

joeybananaz18
12-31-2017, 08:40 AM
Someone else here is more of an expert, no doubt, but for $110 I’m sure you could easily reclaim your money if either (a) they don’t fit, or (b) the outcome isn’t what you’d hoped.

Have you thought about buying a grey M3 seat to go along with the cinnamon cover? Those things go dirt cheap because it’s such an undesirable color.

Honestly no that never dawned on me. I've already spoken with someone locally (well, one state over) who can make me front and rear seat covers for 2k with real cinnamon leather. Pricey but I won't have to worry about fitment and leathers not matching.


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L0veZHP
12-31-2017, 10:32 AM
Lol I’ve been looking for coupe Cinnamon Seats for a while keep finding driving side ripped up ones.. must be some story behind that lol


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BMWCurves
01-02-2018, 03:57 PM
While switching back to my regular wheels/tires I had been hand threading the wheel bolts into the hub and then using my impact wrench just to screw in the bolts so they were no longer loose (but not tightening them), and then finally tightening it down with my tire wrench. On the last bolt of the last wheel, I used my impact wrench as I had been before, but I think I had not finger tightened the bolt far enough and the bolt skipped a thread and tightened at an angle. Now I cannot get it the bolt to thread properly. What's the prognosis? I tried different bolts with no improvement.

ZHPizza
01-02-2018, 05:37 PM
While switching back to my regular wheels/tires I had been hand threading the wheel bolts into the hub and then using my impact wrench just to screw in the bolts so they were no longer loose (but not tightening them), and then finally tightening it down with my tire wrench. On the last bolt of the last wheel, I used my impact wrench as I had been before, but I think I had not finger tightened the bolt far enough and the bolt skipped a thread and tightened at an angle. Now I cannot get it the bolt to thread properly. What's the prognosis? I tried different bolts with no improvement.Sounds like you mucked up the threads in the hub. Gonna have to run a tap into that bad boy. Been there before.

BMWCurves
01-02-2018, 06:01 PM
Sounds like you mucked up the threads in the hub. Gonna have to run a tap into that bad boy. Been there before.

Does anyone know what the thread specs are for the hub?

slater
01-02-2018, 06:01 PM
Does anyone know what the thread specs are for the hub?

M12x1.5.

BMWCurves
01-02-2018, 06:24 PM
M12x1.5.

Gracias to you and Nate

JPMo
01-03-2018, 07:26 AM
So my indy noticed one of the "body plugs" on the underside of the car was missing. Sure enough when he showed me, there is a clean punched out hole with fabric laying over i, which the indy states was the interior carpet. Naturally, it was wet and only a matter of time before mold becomes an issue. Is there a specific PN for the plug that is missing or do I have to try and figure something out?

Thanks