View Full Version : The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread
Prestovie
06-11-2017, 04:12 PM
Let's not clutter up this thread with that discussion. Please start a separate thread.
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Sure thing
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johnrando
06-11-2017, 04:26 PM
Thanks.
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BMWCurves
06-13-2017, 09:20 AM
For those of you that clean your engine bay(s), what brush(es) do you use to get into hard to reach nooks and crannies (or alcoves (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjfxk6ESHzQ&t=48s))?
YoitsTmac
06-13-2017, 09:37 AM
For those of you that clean your engine bay(s), what brush(es) do you use to get into hard to reach nooks and crannies (or alcoves (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjfxk6ESHzQ&t=48s))?
For the tight spots, I soak it in engine degreaser and then have a bottle of water and I set the nozzle to stream and I use that pressure to send all the loose dirt off :)
ZHPizza
06-13-2017, 09:39 AM
So who's going to be the first to try these?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1128644
704sw
06-13-2017, 09:43 AM
For those of you that clean your engine bay(s), what brush(es) do you use to get into hard to reach nooks and crannies
The small Daytona Speedmaster works well. Plus it fits up the exhaust pipes nicely (or poo chutes, as Jeremy Clarkson calls them).
704sw
06-13-2017, 09:44 AM
So who's going to be the first to try these?
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1128644
I've spoken to him. I'm going to hold off until July but I'll probably try them.
BMWCurves
06-13-2017, 12:43 PM
The small Daytona Speedmaster works well. Plus it fits up the exhaust pipes nicely (or poo chutes, as Jeremy Clarkson calls them).
Can that get down in there? I can't judge the size from pictures, but it seems like it'd be too big for a lot of the narrower engine bay areas.
704sw
06-13-2017, 01:41 PM
Can that get down in there? I can't judge the size from pictures, but it seems like it'd be too big for a lot of the narrower engine bay areas.
I'd think so. I have the full size, and it's very agile. The center-bore is flexible and about the size of a wooden dowel, and the bristles will lay completely flat. The Jr. is slim enough to fit between the parallel spokes of Style 67s.
ZHPizza
06-14-2017, 03:15 PM
Anyone ever had to re-glue their door panels, in particular the silver dot fabric on alcantara cars? My Florida car got wrecked by the sun for 10 years and the panel fabric released like the pillar/headliner fabric tends to do. I'm wondering if it would be a waste of time to attempt a re-glue.
ZHPizza
06-14-2017, 03:43 PM
Anyone ever had to re-glue their door panels, in particular the silver dot fabric on alcantara cars? My Florida car got wrecked by the sun for 10 years and the panel fabric released like the pillar/headliner fabric tends to do. I'm wondering if it would be a waste of time to attempt a re-glue.
I mean the adhesive has just given up completely
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170614/ed1fd8d29b083abbe9b1e6c832330192.jpg
BMWCurves
06-15-2017, 01:55 PM
Anyone know which clips are the ones that attach the sill covers? Are they 51478234047 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/sill-strip-clip/51478234047/)?
Not sure about the number right off but I'm quite sure I have some. Want them? 04101 here
BMWCurves
06-15-2017, 04:28 PM
Not sure about the number right off but I'm quite sure I have some. Want them? 04101 here
Oooh I just want one or two if you have them! I'm planning to swap out my dead pedal and I know I will snap one of these in the process. Do they look like this:
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/220317_x800.jpg
Prestovie
06-15-2017, 07:20 PM
Does anyone else ever feel like their clutch just has an "off" day? Like some days it'll be smooth as butter, but days like today just disengaging first gear causes the whole car to buck once I get my foot halfway through the clutch kick.
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ZHPizza
06-15-2017, 08:02 PM
Oooh I just want one or two if you have them! I'm planning to swap out my dead pedal and I know I will snap one of these in the process. Do they look like this:
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/220317_x800.jpg
That's them. They're tough af tho. I don't think you'll need extras. I pulled off both sill covers without damaging any of them. If you're lucky, you can slide the sill cover back [I think] and off of those clips entirely. Then you can pull them out one by one with pliers and mount them in the cover for reinstallation.
Does anyone else ever feel like their clutch just has an "off" day? Like some days it'll be smooth as butter, but days like today just disengaging first gear causes the whole car to buck once I get my foot halfway through the clutch kick.
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YES. Even after removing the CDV, my clutch and I still have days where we just can't get on the same page. I don't know what it is...I just assume it's me... typical BMW abusive relationship...
anandoc
06-16-2017, 01:59 AM
That's them. They're tough af tho. I don't think you'll need extras. I pulled off both sill covers without damaging any of them. If you're lucky, you can slide the sill cover back [I think] and off of those clips entirely. Then you can pull them out one by one with pliers and mount them in the cover for reinstallation.
Thats exactly what you are supposed to do. Slide the sill covers off and then gently pull out the clips using a plier while you whisper sweet nothings to them.
Oooh I just want one or two if you have them! I'm planning to swap out my dead pedal and I know I will snap one of these in the process. Do they look like this:
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/220317_x800.jpg
I'm a bit curious as to whether you're working on your dead pedal or sill cover. I have (coupe) sill cover clips, which by the way do not permit sliding the sill cover off because the center clip is mounted 90º off from its neighbors.
30288
BMWCurves
06-16-2017, 08:04 AM
I'm a bit curious as to whether you're working on your dead pedal or sill cover. I have (coupe) sill cover clips, which by the way do not permit sliding the sill cover off because the center clip is mounted 90º off from its neighbors.
30288
I'm working on my dead pedal (replacing with an M3 one).
I'm working on my dead pedal (replacing with an M3 one).
Shoot me a PM with mailing address and I'll get however many you need out to you
sillieidiot
06-18-2017, 09:07 AM
Does anyone else ever feel like their clutch just has an "off" day? Like some days it'll be smooth as butter, but days like today just disengaging first gear causes the whole car to buck once I get my foot halfway through the clutch kick.
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Nope. But I do have off days where my shifting feels shitty. But that's on me, not the car.
downshift
06-18-2017, 02:45 PM
Hey guys,
I have a question RE whether or not you guys are familiar with a strange noice my car has been making.
When parked, car off, flat surface, engine warm, half tank
Start car (clutch in)
Neutral
Leave clutch in, no noise
Let clutch out, very faint sound of fluid sloshing back and forth audible from outside car, near or in front of rear right wheel
Push clutch in again, sound remains
Is this the fuel pump, possibly sucking up some air making noises? it really sounds more like a slow sloshing
Anyone heard this?
Thanks,
Josh
az3579
06-19-2017, 06:23 PM
Let me just take a moment to say
WHAT IN THE HOLY BUTTF***???
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/mirror-motor-left/67136946313/
That is over $300 more than the price I was bitching about a few years ago...
704sw
06-19-2017, 07:05 PM
Let me just take a moment to say
WHAT IN THE HOLY BUTTF***???
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/mirror-motor-left/67136946313/
That is over $300 more than the price I was bitching about a few years ago...
First: that made me laugh, and I plan to use this saying moving forward.
Second: that is outrageous!
BMWCurves
06-23-2017, 09:36 AM
Does anyone know how the oil level sensor works in terms of how often it measures the oil level and if it needs a set number "oil level low signatures" to trigger the yellow low oil level light?
anandoc
06-23-2017, 11:55 AM
Does anyone know how the oil level sensor works in terms of how often it measures the oil level and if it needs a set number "oil level low signatures" to trigger the yellow low oil level light?
Having issues with the oil level sensor? Mine stopped turning on at all even though the oil level would be actually low. Replaced it during an oil change.
Sorry - no idea how it actually works...
stephenkirsh
06-23-2017, 02:45 PM
How challenging is it to get that subframe brace off to access the oil level sensor?
az3579
06-23-2017, 05:16 PM
How challenging is it to get that subframe brace off to access the oil level sensor?
The oil level sensor doesn't need anything but the plastic splash shield removed to get to it.
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BMWCurves
06-27-2017, 09:56 PM
Couple of unrelated questions for yous:
1. Has anyone that still have their factory hood insulation (part no. 51488193941) noticed that it has shrunk? The side tabs of my insulation barely touch the slots in the hood, let alone "snap" into place.
2. For those of you with a GruppeM intake, do you hear a sucking/whistling sound at a light throttle that maintains speed? I have that sound only at steady-state, but if I have no throttle input or a larger throttle input, then it goes away.
3. I'm going to install my OEM M3 strut bar, is there any particular order the nuts of the bar should be tightened e.g. the mounts first, then the bar, etc.?
anandoc
06-28-2017, 02:06 AM
Couple of unrelated questions for yous:
1. Has anyone that still have their factory hood insulation (part no. 51488193941) noticed that it has shrunk? The side tabs of my insulation barely touch the slots in the hood, let alone "snap" into place.
Yup, those shrink over time. Mine developed a hole in the middle so I got rid of it completely.
2. For those of you with a GruppeM intake, do you hear a sucking/whistling sound at a light throttle that maintains speed? I have that sound only at steady-state, but if I have no throttle input or a larger throttle input, then it goes away.
I dont have a GruppeM but my Afe does something like this as well.
3. I'm going to install my OEM M3 strut bar, is there any particular order the nuts of the bar should be tightened e.g. the mounts first, then the bar, etc.?
No particular order that I am aware of. You install the brackets on each side first and then install the bar connecting the two brackets.
I replaced my 'shrunken' hood insulator around 40,000 mi. (11 years). I trimmed it back a bit to clear my new ECS strut bar, and repainted it with bed liner spray.
az3579
06-28-2017, 02:35 AM
The GruppeM sound is normal. Love it - makes it sound like I have a turbo. Lol
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704sw
06-28-2017, 02:40 AM
Couple of unrelated questions for yous:
3. I'm going to install my OEM M3 strut bar, is there any particular order the nuts of the bar should be tightened e.g. the mounts first, then the bar, etc.?
I put the two baseplates on, tightened them down starting with the inner most of the 3 nuts.
For the actual bar, I broke into my 8th grade algebra and did a tightening pattern based on FOIL (first, outer, inner, last). It seemed to work just fine.
holyc0w
06-28-2017, 04:25 AM
Are there any downsides to getting rid of the hood insulation? Better to replace?
anandoc
06-28-2017, 04:45 AM
Are there any downsides to getting rid of the hood insulation? Better to replace?
Not paying $93 for a new hood insulation. And the used ones seem to be all shrunk/torn. Plus, I get to hear my aFe intake :)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/hood-insulation/51488193941/
az3579
06-28-2017, 05:23 AM
I heard the insulation provides some protection against fires. I think it's along the lines of it giving people a little more time to get out of the car before the fire gets worse. I'd replace it, personally.
johnrando
06-28-2017, 05:39 AM
Mine shrunk and I replaced. It's mainly for engine fire protection (suppression) from what I understand. Maybe helps with sound deadening?
Not sure re Gruppe M, don't know that mine makes that sound.
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704sw
06-28-2017, 05:54 AM
I have no evidence to support it, but I'd think long term it would help the paint by having it there. Don't want your bonnet looking like every Honda out there with clear coat failure.
BMWCurves
06-28-2017, 08:32 AM
Thank you all for the resounding response, gentleman!
http://i.imgur.com/OFfDZkp.gif
anandoc
06-28-2017, 08:46 AM
I heard the insulation provides some protection against fires. I think it's along the lines of it giving people a little more time to get out of the car before the fire gets worse. I'd replace it, personally.
Mine shrunk and I replaced. It's mainly for engine fire protection (suppression) from what I understand. Maybe helps with sound deadening?
I have no evidence to support it, but I'd think long term it would help the paint by having it there. Don't want your bonnet looking like every Honda out there with clear coat failure.
A quick google search did not show me any evidence that the hood insulation helps with fire suppression or that its absence can affect the hood paint adversely. All I see is that it serves as a sound insulation (from RealOEM desc. and ECS Tuning part desc.).
Not saying that I don't trust you guys, but do you have any links which say that it helps in fire suppression etc or is it just something that makes logical sense?
slater
06-28-2017, 09:39 AM
forget the insulation. i'm going to pin up a nomex suit to the underside of the hood.
John in VA
06-28-2017, 11:58 AM
I replaced my 'shrunken' hood insulator around 40,000 mi. (11 years). I trimmed it back a bit to clear my new ECS strut bar, and repainted it with bed liner spray.
Mine stays in place, but the front driver's side tab has "shrunk" to the point where it won't stay in the hood slot. Even at $88 it's hard to justify replacing it when it looks great otherwise. Perhaps a strip of double-sided tape or Velcro will remedy the situation.
holyc0w
06-28-2017, 12:15 PM
My problem is I tried to stretch the tabs a bit and tore a hole. :facepalm Tape works for a while, but it's still annoying having the powder come out.
704sw
06-29-2017, 06:14 AM
Noise diagnosis: Backing out of the driveway this morning I heard a single click/pop as I turned the wheel. Each of the 4 righthand turns between the house and office were also accompanied by a single pop. (Edit: it does not make this sound when turning left).
I'm going to check the end links during lunch, but what are my other possible culprits? CV? I have tie rods waiting to go in, as I'm trying to resolve some wheel vibration at 50mph+. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, gentlemen.
Noise diagnosis: Backing out of the driveway this morning I heard a single click/pop as I turned the wheel. Each of the 4 righthand turns between the house and office were also accompanied by a single pop. (Edit: it does not make this sound when turning left).
I'm going to check the end links during lunch, but what are my other possible culprits? CV? I have tie rods waiting to go in, as I'm trying to resolve some wheel vibration at 50mph+. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, gentlemen.
Had that happen to me when I had bad fcabs
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slater
06-29-2017, 08:20 AM
Noise diagnosis: Backing out of the driveway this morning I heard a single click/pop as I turned the wheel. Each of the 4 righthand turns between the house and office were also accompanied by a single pop. (Edit: it does not make this sound when turning left).
I'm going to check the end links during lunch, but what are my other possible culprits? CV? I have tie rods waiting to go in, as I'm trying to resolve some wheel vibration at 50mph+. Any advice is welcome. Thanks, gentlemen.
did you install those front konis yet?
sounds like a ball joint or tie rod end. both are original as they were in good shape at that point. it's not going to be a CV as your car is RWD. ;)
Had that happen to me when I had bad fcabs
i replaced the end links and FCABs last summer - doubtful that the FCABs are the issue, as that's not a symptom of FCAB failure... wheel jerk under light braking is the dead giveaway.
did you install those front konis yet?
sounds like a ball joint or tie rod end. both are original as they were in good shape at that point. it's not going to be a CV as your car is RWD. ;)
i replaced the end links and FCABs last summer - doubtful that the FCABs are the issue, as that's not a symptom of FCAB failure... wheel jerk under light braking is the dead giveaway.
I had less than 5k miles on the fcabs when I heard the noise and checked for wheel jerk among other things. Noticed they were bad and replaced them and the noise went away.
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704sw
06-29-2017, 08:31 AM
did you install those front konis yet?
sounds like a ball joint or tie rod end. both are original as they were in good shape at that point. it's not going to be a CV as your car is RWD. ;)
i replaced the end links and FCABs last summer - doubtful that the FCABs are the issue, as that's not a symptom of FCAB failure... wheel jerk under light braking is the dead giveaway.
Haven't gotten the Konis in yet. Wheel jerk under braking can also be a symptom of the tie rod ends, no? I have a little bit of that, but it's not nearly as bad as the sloppiness in the steering in general.
slater
06-29-2017, 08:41 AM
I had less than 5k miles on the fcabs when I heard the noise and checked for wheel jerk among other things. Noticed they were bad and replaced them and the noise went away.
interesting, what brand were they?
Haven't gotten the Konis in yet. Wheel jerk under braking can also be a symptom of the tie rod ends, no? I have a little bit of that, but it's not nearly as bad as the sloppiness in the steering in general.
hmmm. yep, time to inspect all front end components...
interesting, what brand were they?
hmmm. yep, time to inspect all front end components...
They were lemforder and I got free lemforder replacement under warranty and they've been good for the last 45k miles. Must've been a one off...
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ELCID86
07-02-2017, 04:59 PM
Are there any downsides to getting rid of the hood insulation? Better to replace?
William, a better question is has anyone 'not' seen shrinkage...
I threw mine away and have not replaced it. I agree it's probably for sound deadening and maybe to protect the hood paint or keep the m54 warm at night.
stephenkirsh
07-06-2017, 10:26 AM
William, a better question is has anyone 'not' seen shrinkage...
Only in the pool.
az3579
07-09-2017, 06:55 AM
Has anyone installed Hella Supertone horns? I watched a couple of videos on YouTube and have to say I'm not exactly happy with the way it sounds, but they do sound loud as hell, which is what I'm going for. I kind of want something loud and lower toned like the VW GLI that I have.
I'd mainly want to find out if the Supertone horns are indeed loud enough...
John in VA
07-09-2017, 07:23 AM
install a GLI horn?
That's the answer!
I had Hella Supertones on my 2002tii (painted the red shileds black), but removed them in favor of the Stebel Nautilus. I was interested in LOUD & compact, not a specific tone.
http://www.stebel-usa.com/product/
az3579
07-09-2017, 07:38 AM
That's the answer!
I had Hella Suoertones on my 2002tii (painted the red shileds black), but removed them in favor of the Stebel Nautilus. I was interested in LOUD & compact, not a specific tone.
http://www.stebel-usa.com/product/
I looked up that one. While the sound is a bit... non-characteristic... it is pretty loud, and would entertain this option. How did you mount yours? The pics don't look like they come with any mounting solution.
ELCID86
07-09-2017, 10:39 AM
This? https://youtu.be/jUBBGxyAN4M
---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic
John in VA
07-09-2017, 03:33 PM
How did you mount yours? The pics don't look like they come with any mounting solution.
You'll need to use an existing hole or create your own. I mounted it in an existing horn hole in the core support on the 2002tii, behind the driver's side grill. I'm not familiar with the original horn mounts on an E46.
BMWCurves
07-10-2017, 02:50 PM
1. What's a common/good copper-based anti-seize compound people use?
2. Which was the ATE brake fluid someone suggested for non-track use that was not Typ 200? Was it SL.6?
az3579
07-10-2017, 03:36 PM
You'll need to use an existing hole or create your own. I mounted it in an existing horn hole in the core support on the 2002tii. I'm not familiar with the original horn mounts on an E46., behind the driver's side grill
Darn it. I don't feel comfortable making those kinds of modifications. Will have to have someone do it for me then. Thanks.
1. What's a common/good copper-based anti-seize compound people use?
2. Which was the ATE brake fluid someone suggested for non-track use that was not Typ 200? Was it SL.6?
SL6
BMWCurves
07-10-2017, 04:41 PM
SL6
Gracias!
John in VA
07-10-2017, 05:21 PM
1. What's a common/good copper-based anti-seize compound people use?
LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant (Known as Loctite C5-A )
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51ohYAgidLL.jpg
BMWCurves
07-10-2017, 05:39 PM
LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant (Known as Loctite C5-A )
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51ohYAgidLL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qv09zTl.gif
John in VA
07-10-2017, 06:28 PM
I also use the Permatex stuff - sems to work just as well:
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant - A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol – Level 3*
https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/80078.jpg
nextelbuddy
07-11-2017, 11:47 AM
LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize Lubricant (Known as Loctite C5-A )
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51ohYAgidLL.jpg
sort of seems like an oxymoron... Loctite!.... anti-seize lol
Sockethead
07-12-2017, 05:57 AM
I've e had the same can of the permatex for like 30 years lol, that stuff lasts forever. Recently I started using the copper based stuff I found in the wife's car chemical collection...
John in VA
07-12-2017, 06:12 AM
I've e had the same can of the permatex for like 30 years lol, that stuff lasts forever. Recently I started using the copper based stuff I found in the wife's car chemical collection...
Ditto on the Permatex. Got my copper stuff from a friend.
holyc0w
07-12-2017, 07:34 AM
On the RAR taillights, are there any protective layers or stickers?
I'm seeing a bump on the transition from amber to red. Also, the inner taillights have a clear strip showing between the transition from red to amber, which I'm not sure is supposed to be there.
BMWCurves
07-12-2017, 09:25 AM
Who has used Dr. Colorchip before? How did you like it? I'm considering using it if I hand over my car to have paint correction done and then ceramic coated.
I also use the Permatex stuff - sems to work just as well:
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant - A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol – Level 3*
https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/80078.jpg
I've e had the same can of the permatex for like 30 years lol, that stuff lasts forever. Recently I started using the copper based stuff I found in the wife's car chemical collection...
Ditto on the Permatex. Got my copper stuff from a friend.
I ended up going with Loctite C5-A/LB 8008. Appreciate all the input, everyone!
On the RAR taillights, are there any protective layers or stickers?
I'm seeing a bump on the transition from amber to red. Also, the inner taillights have a clear strip showing between the transition from red to amber, which I'm not sure is supposed to be there.
Pics?
az3579
07-12-2017, 05:11 PM
On the RAR taillights, are there any protective layers or stickers?
I'm seeing a bump on the transition from amber to red. Also, the inner taillights have a clear strip showing between the transition from red to amber, which I'm not sure is supposed to be there.
Mine stock RAR's are like that, as well as much RCRs.
Who has used Dr. Colorchip before? How did you like it? I'm considering using it if I hand over my car to have paint correction done and then ceramic coated.
I ended up going with Loctite C5-A/LB 8008. Appreciate all the input, everyone!
Pics?
I've used Dr.C before. It was super easy to apply a d the car looked decent from 10ft after I was done. Unfortunately, the car looked just as peppered less than a year later than before the application. I'm not sure if it's because it just didn't last or if I really got that many new rock chips. I can't see the ones I filled anymore...
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BMWCurves
07-12-2017, 05:27 PM
I've used Dr.C before. It was super easy to apply a d the car looked decent from 10ft after I was done. Unfortunately, the car looked just as peppered less than a year later than before the application. I'm not sure if it's because it just didn't last or if I really got that many new rock chips. I can't see the ones I filled anymore...
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Cool, thanks! I'm trying to decide if it's worth using prior to handing the car over to a shop for ceramic coating.
holyc0w
07-12-2017, 06:03 PM
Pics?
This was part of it. There is clear between the red and orange. I believe the orange, among other things, is some kind of sticker overlaid on top of the light.
30498
az3579
07-12-2017, 06:06 PM
Cool, thanks! I'm trying to decide if it's worth using prior to handing the car over to a shop for ceramic coating.
Personally I'd respray the panel before putting any kind of semi-permanent coating on it. You'd pretty much be "sealing in" the imperfections otherwise...
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ZHPizza
07-12-2017, 06:12 PM
Cool, thanks! I'm trying to decide if it's worth using prior to handing the car over to a shop for ceramic coating.
Yes, yes it is. The detailer should buff out swirl marks and such before coating, so he can polish right over your paint fills.
johnrando
07-15-2017, 05:50 PM
Dr C works great but if you decide to paint they say it interferes w it, not sure of the details.
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fredo
07-16-2017, 04:21 AM
I believe DW reported the issue, maybe he has more details. :dunno
ELCID86
07-16-2017, 10:43 AM
sort of seems like an oxymoron... Loctite!.... anti-seize lol
Yeah. I was scratching my head... I've had a jar of the Permatex stuff. I Use it a lot.
dlucas589
07-16-2017, 11:54 AM
I'm struggling ordering LED bulbs for the OEM RCR setup. Can someone weigh in to let me know if this sounds correct for the rear end of RCR?
1 Pair White Reverse Lights 1156 P21W
1 Pair Amber Turn Signal Lights (For the Clear section)- 1156 P21W
4 Pairs Red Brake Lights (1 pair for Trunk lid, 3 pairs for Main Side Lamp Assembly) 1156 P21W
az3579
07-16-2017, 03:16 PM
I'm struggling ordering LED bulbs for the OEM RCR setup. Can someone weigh in to let me know if this sounds correct for the rear end of RCR?
1 Pair White Reverse Lights 1156 P21W
1 Pair Amber Turn Signal Lights (For the Clear section)- 1156 P21W
4 Pairs Red Brake Lights (1 pair for Trunk lid, 3 pairs for Main Side Lamp Assembly) 1156 P21W
Sounds right to me. You might change your mind on the 3 bottom pairs though; let me know how they work out for you. On my car, the bottom row of lights was WAY too bright at night, and wasn't much different in brightness as the brake light, as though the car didn't know how to turn them down to 50%. Hopefully yours work as intended.
Make sure the red and amber bulb pairs are CANBUS bulbs, otherwise you'll find yourself searching for resistors to add.
dlucas589
07-16-2017, 07:54 PM
Awesome, thanks for the info. Saw your other post in the lighting section and I think I understand better now. Returning all the bimmian/weisslicht lights except for the side indicator LEDs (as your note mentioned you have yet to find bright enough ones) and going ebay Cree canbus sets for 1/5 the price. win!
ZHPizza
07-20-2017, 11:39 AM
I've been fighting with my sun/heat trashed door panels for a few weeks now and am about to call the time of death on them. I have alcantara interior, so the door panels have the black/silver fabric that's in the center of the seats. I'm thinking about swapping them for black leather panels.
Has anyone ever done such a blasphemous act?
Am I the only one that would buy a 12 year old Florida car that never had window tint?
Doth ye sun hath nay mercy?
BMWCurves
07-20-2017, 12:21 PM
What does the fabric look like now?
ZHPizza
07-20-2017, 01:56 PM
What does the fabric look like now?
It has some separation issues
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/ee5096a37305e02df4c987910a03bf8d.jpg
And getting this broken down foam out of the fabric to reglue may be impossible
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170720/915a7073713062a8f38d521b1329215a.jpg
BMWCurves
07-20-2017, 02:24 PM
Oof. I'm not experienced in upholstery stuff, so I can't really give you advice. If you would like to convert your whole car to leather though, I know just the guy with a mint leather interior for sale...
ZHPizza
07-20-2017, 07:27 PM
Oof. I'm not experienced in upholstery stuff, so I can't really give you advice. If you would like to convert your whole car to leather though, I know just the guy with a mint leather interior for sale...Son I ain't never going back to leather seats. My ass is exclusively seeing Alcantara/cloth.
BMWCurves
07-20-2017, 10:27 PM
Son I ain't never going back to leather seats. My ass is exclusively seeing Alcantara/cloth.
http://i.imgur.com/0vLjJef.gif
danewilson77
07-21-2017, 07:21 AM
I believe DW reported the issue, maybe he has more details. :dunno
Dr C works great but if you decide to paint they say it interferes w it, not sure of the details.
Sent from my SM-G950U using TapatalkYes. I had heard that. It will not interfere with a properly prepped panel. That's the experience I have.
Sent from my S8+
WOLFN8TR
07-21-2017, 08:29 AM
Speaking of Dr. Colorchip.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/c18d11fe5463a45ac996c5e7e270569a.jpg
BMWCurves
07-21-2017, 01:24 PM
For those of you that have a TSE3, did you put that mounting bracket that was on the stock exhaust and connects the exhaust to the transmission, back on the TSE3? It's not in the Corsa directions, but it seems like it could fit on there fine and give it more stability.
704sw
07-21-2017, 01:34 PM
For those of you that have a TSE3, did you put that mounting bracket that was on the stock exhaust and connects the exhaust to the transmission, back on the TSE3? It's not in the Corsa directions, but it seems like it could fit on there fine and give it more stability.
For those of you whose stock exhaust had one [emoji51]
BMWCurves
07-21-2017, 01:47 PM
For those of you whose stock exhaust had one [emoji51]
Hahaha what happened to yours?
Also, did you get your exhaust on?
For those of you that have a TSE3, did you put that mounting bracket that was on the stock exhaust and connects the exhaust to the transmission, back on the TSE3? It's not in the Corsa directions, but it seems like it could fit on there fine and give it more stability.
If I remember correctly rob and I removed the exhausts on both cars including the brace and installed them with out swapping as they are the same...
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704sw
07-21-2017, 01:55 PM
Hahaha what happened to yours?
Also, did you get your exhaust on?
This is all that was there when I bought it haha.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/00fca0dfe6e5dfcf24c932183b24a26c.jpg
Peter thought the missing pieces might've been the source of a rattle, but I actually think it's coming from the bottom of the down pipe. Those connections are completely shot, so they'll get replaced with the new noise maker.
And no, not yet; it'll probably be late August or September before I get around to it. I'm job hunting right now. I have to escape telecom before the grey hairs take over.
az3579
07-21-2017, 02:36 PM
For those of you that have a TSE3, did you put that mounting bracket that was on the stock exhaust and connects the exhaust to the transmission, back on the TSE3? It's not in the Corsa directions, but it seems like it could fit on there fine and give it more stability.
Yes. I still have both of my brackets.
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BMWCurves
07-21-2017, 05:50 PM
If I remember correctly rob and I removed the exhausts on both cars including the brace and installed them with out swapping as they are the same...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes. I still have both of my brackets.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Huh. I went back under there and could not get that bracket to mount properly to the TSE3. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything though. Appreciate it.
This is all that was there when I bought it haha.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/00fca0dfe6e5dfcf24c932183b24a26c.jpg
Peter thought the missing pieces might've been the source of a rattle, but I actually think it's coming from the bottom of the down pipe. Those connections are completely shot, so they'll get replaced with the new noise maker.
And no, not yet; it'll probably be late August or September before I get around to it. I'm job hunting right now. I have to escape telecom before the grey hairs take over.
Oof. You're the living reason why I don't plan on buying a car that's seen winters in places that salt their roads.
What job are you looking to move to?
When changing the manual transmission fluid, is it a good idea to use maybe half a quart or so to just flush the transmission? Did not do it the last time and I was thinking if I should do it now as I am planning to replace the fluid as it's been about 50k miles. Planning to go with red line MTL btw...
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704sw
07-29-2017, 09:47 AM
Airbag light + no horn + no steering wheel buttons means bad clock spring, right?
anandoc
07-29-2017, 11:07 AM
Airbag light + no horn + no steering wheel buttons means bad clock spring, right?
That would be my first guess.
704sw
07-29-2017, 11:19 AM
That would be my first guess.
Popped the little access door open and the clock spring ribbon was severed in 2 places.
anandoc
07-29-2017, 11:30 AM
Popped the little access door open and the clock spring ribbon was severed in 2 places.
Dayum! That's quite rare. I might have a spare clockspring lying around.
704sw
07-29-2017, 12:36 PM
Dayum! That's quite rare. I might have a spare clockspring lying around.
I went to the pull yard, but if this one is no good I'll definitely be asking you. Donor car was an '03 325i sport.
stephenkirsh
07-29-2017, 07:19 PM
Noob question:
I don't jack the rear of the car up too often... actually can't think of last time I did.
What's the best way to keep the car from rolling? Are blocks on the front wheels sufficient?
Noob question:
I don't jack the rear of the car up too often... actually can't think of last time I did.
What's the best way to keep the car from rolling? Are blocks on the front wheels sufficient?
That's what I do!
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704sw
07-29-2017, 07:36 PM
Noob question:
I don't jack the rear of the car up too often... actually can't think of last time I did.
What's the best way to keep the car from rolling? Are blocks on the front wheels sufficient?
I use a couple one foot 2x4 leftovers.
stephenkirsh
07-29-2017, 07:46 PM
Ok just double checking.
Getting ready to do my suspension. I'll likely have more questions.
PSS10 arrived last week. Waiting on the sway bars and other gear Monday!
anandoc
07-30-2017, 04:53 AM
I went to the pull yard, but if this one is no good I'll definitely be asking you. Donor car was an '03 325i sport.
Let us know how it goes. Goodluck!
If you haven't yet, read the following link BEFORE getting under you car. We like our family to live to a ripe old age!
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1931-Please-take-a-moment-to-read-this-(regarding-Christian-Richard-Klorczyk)&highlight=jackstand
stephenkirsh
07-30-2017, 01:42 PM
Yup, seen that thread a few times.
When lifting one end, I have weight on 2 stands, 2 other stands as back up, keep the jack under the center jack point, and wheels under the rotors.
Or if wheels are on, I use ramps.
Fenrir
07-31-2017, 07:08 AM
So I've a question for you guys. I've been digging around for M54b30 build info and I saw something interesting that kinda gave me a moment of pause. I came across a few articles adressing the motor and it's apparent habit of vibrating it's oil pump pully nut off when revved beyong 6k for extended periods. Oooor when the motor has high mileage.
My question is, have any of you guys dealt with or seen this on your cars? There was a rumor that the facelift models had the issue resolved but, that was the rumor about the subframes for a bit too. I don't know how I missed this and was just curious about it. That, and I really don't want to climb into the rev range one day and witness my engine eating itself.
Thanks for any input.
slater
07-31-2017, 07:54 AM
^ the ZHP M54B30 has its' oil pump nut loctite'd on.
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Fenrir
07-31-2017, 08:05 AM
^ the ZHP M54B30 has its' oil pump nut loctite'd on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I read about that. But I've also read about cases where the loctite failure was only a matter of time. That said, a few foks did say the cases with the ZHPs were rarer. I was just wondering in anyone here has dealth with the issue on their car.
az3579
07-31-2017, 08:31 AM
Yeah I read about that. But I've also read abot cases where the loctite failure was only a matter of time. That said, a few foks did say the cases with the ZHPs were rarer. I was just wondering in anyone here has dealth with the issue on their car.
I'll let you know when my high mileage (275k currently) regularly-tracked-and-revved-high-for-extended-periods M54 fails. Still good for now. 👍
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Fenrir
07-31-2017, 08:37 AM
I'll let you know when my high mileage (275k currently) regularly-tracked-and-revved-high-for-extended-periods M54 fails. Still good for now.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Lol sounds like a plan. After finally getting things together for my car I saw this issue and then saw it happened higher in the rev range.... And then immediately remembered how many times I've taken my car to 7200 rpm lol. I'm at 120k without issue and that's between the previous owner tracking this thing all over Europe and myself clocking hours here in the states. Welp, if it ain't broke, gonna stop worrying about it.
ZHPizza
07-31-2017, 09:22 AM
Welp, if it ain't broke, gonna stop worrying about it.
Right on. M54's can be had for stupid cheap now, so if yours eats shit, then you can pick up a used bottom end, wire the pump nut, then move over your zhp cams (assuming they don't get lunched).
Fenrir
07-31-2017, 09:23 AM
Right on. M54's can be had for stupid cheap now, so if yours eats shit, then you can pick up a used bottom end, wire the pump nut, then move over your zhp cams (assuming they don't get lunched).Good point haha. Or....or.... I could go to the dark side and drop an LS1 in lol.
Sent through deep space from a Firefly class vessel
704sw
07-31-2017, 09:31 AM
Good point haha. Or....or.... I could go to the dark side and drop an LS1 in lol.
Sent through deep space from a Firefly class vessel
The LS is GM's best contribution to the automotive industry.
Fenrir
07-31-2017, 09:33 AM
The LS is GM's best contribution to the automotive industry.Haha yeah it is. Although, I've always loved the final generation of the WS6 Trans Am. Pre school plastic and all. But, that's getting off topic for this thread haha.
Sent through deep space from a Firefly class vessel
I am planning to change the oil in my Zhp at a friend's garage today as I don't have a garage anymore. I forgot to get the oil filter with me, so I was thinking -
Can I change the oil first, then drive about 30 miles back to my place and change the oil filter later?
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ZHPizza
07-31-2017, 09:53 AM
I am planning to change the oil in my Zhp at a friend's garage today as I don't have a garage anymore. I forgot to get the oil filter with me, so I was thinking -
Can I change the oil first, then drive about 30 miles back to my place and change the oil filter later?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can't think of any issue with that...running clean oil through a dirty filter for a bit? Nothing wrong with that.
I can't think of any issue with that...running clean oil through a dirty filter for a bit? Nothing wrong with that.
I was thinking the same thing. Just needed a bit of reassurance to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Thanks!
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danewilson77
07-31-2017, 10:59 AM
I am planning to change the oil in my Zhp at a friend's garage today as I don't have a garage anymore. I forgot to get the oil filter with me, so I was thinking -
Can I change the oil first, then drive about 30 miles back to my place and change the oil filter later?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNo
Sent from my S8+
No
Sent from my S8+
Hmm. Why though?
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danewilson77
07-31-2017, 11:14 AM
Hmm. Why though?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm just thinking how often we change our oil, and why not do it right, vice risk pushing crap from an old filter into brand new oil?
Will the car blow up..... No.
Sent from my S8+
anandoc
07-31-2017, 11:40 AM
I was thinking the same thing. Just needed a bit of reassurance to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pretty sure that is sarcasm.
Why would you want to run your new oil through the old filter and get all the crap mixed in?
ZHPizza
07-31-2017, 12:13 PM
Guys the filter flows in one direction. It's not like he's backflushing fresh oil through it the wrong way. What's caught in the filter will stay in the filter.
Sockethead
07-31-2017, 12:21 PM
30 miles should be ok. Spin off the filter cap enough to break the vacuum so whatever oil is in the filter housing drains back and out the pan
stephenkirsh
07-31-2017, 02:09 PM
Guys the filter flows in one direction. It's not like he's backflushing fresh oil through it the wrong way. What's caught in the filter will stay in the filter.
This makes the most sense. Other responses seem to be under the impression that the filter... doesn't filter.
Anybody fix a sagging headliner yet? Looking for suggestions or ideas on how to approach this repair.
John in VA
08-01-2017, 01:42 PM
Anybody fix a sagging headliner yet? Looking for suggestions or ideas on how to approach this repair.
Remove the headliner panel from the car; have the panel reupholstered or replace it with a factory-new part; reinstall. Once the foam between the fabric & the panel starts to fail there is no going back!
Remove the headliner panel from the car; have the panel reupholstered or replace it with a factory-new part; reinstall. Once the foam between the fabric & the panel starts to fail there is no going back!
Mostly concerned with finding the same material/fabric that will match the pillars. Reason being is that those were replaced with brand new ones when they started to peel.
John in VA
08-01-2017, 03:58 PM
Lim's Auto Upholstery has shops in Tysons & Chantilly, if you don't have a good shop in H'burg or C'ville. They do great work & probably have access to a good match. I'm not sure if you can glue plain Alcantara on a panel & not have it droop over time.
http://www.limsautoupholstery.com/
ZHPizza
08-01-2017, 05:57 PM
Mostly concerned with finding the same material/fabric that will match the pillars. Reason being is that those were replaced with brand new ones when they started to peel.Take a pillar with you to the upholstery shop to match?
Lim's Auto Upholstery has shops in Tysons & Chantilly, if you don't have a good shop in H'burg or C'ville. They do great work & probably have access to a good match. I'm not sure if you can glue plain Alcantara on a panel & not have it droop over time.
http://www.limsautoupholstery.com/Thanks for the suggestion.
Take a pillar with you to the upholstery shop to match?Not a bad idea.
Or maybe I should look into a used headliner ?
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L0veZHP
08-01-2017, 07:23 PM
How much camber is too much camber? I'm about to go -2.5 -2.7 on my car -3.0 idk.. on the rears [emoji848]
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704sw
08-01-2017, 07:44 PM
How much camber is too much camber? I'm about to go -2.5 -2.7 on my car -3.0 idk.. on the rears [emoji848]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When your inner sidewalls are more than 50% of the contact patch.
slater
08-02-2017, 03:18 AM
Thanks for the suggestion. Not a bad idea.
Or maybe I should look into a used headliner ?
i've got a non-sagging headliner here from my ZHP. one benefit to a cooler climate... no sag. :)
shipping would be a major PITA, but doable, i think... maybe greyhound express?
az3579
08-02-2017, 03:42 AM
How much camber is too much camber? I'm about to go -2.5 -2.7 on my car -3.0 idk.. on the rears [emoji848]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You don't need that kind of camber unless you were tracking your car. Even then, that might be a bit too much.
I can tell you from experience, -1 rear is PERFECT for street use, as well as some track use. You get awesome tire life out of it and the rear is still pretty decently planted on track.
i've got a non-sagging headliner here from my ZHP. one benefit to a cooler climate... no sag. :)
shipping would be a major PITA, but doable, i think... maybe greyhound express?
The car was from Texas so the heat did its thing. I would love to get my hands on it but not sure about shipping. Maybe at this years family reunion?
704sw
08-02-2017, 05:44 AM
The car was from Texas so the heat did its thing. I would love to get my hands on it but not sure about shipping. Maybe at this years family reunion?
Yes! Let's keep pressuring Slater into coming :biggrin
ZHPizza
08-02-2017, 06:18 AM
The car was from Texas so the heat did its thing. I would love to get my hands on it but not sure about shipping. Maybe at this years family reunion?
It won't fit in the back of his touring....
shotsfired.gif
slater
08-02-2017, 06:32 AM
The car was from Texas so the heat did its thing. I would love to get my hands on it but not sure about shipping. Maybe at this years family reunion?
hey... that might work.
Yes! Let's keep pressuring Slater into coming :biggrin
LOL. we still don't know what weekend it is yet. :)
It won't fit in the back of his touring....
dude... you KNOW i'm going to try to fit it in today, right????
hey... that might work.
dude... you KNOW i'm going to try to fit it in today, right????
I thought anything and everything can fit inside a touring.
Either way I would be interested in it.
anandoc
08-02-2017, 08:02 AM
Yes! Let's keep pressuring Slater into coming :biggrin
+1
I bet Slater's touring wont make it all the way to Ohio for the meet. Yeah, I am pretty sure...unless he can prove otherwise :)
az3579
08-02-2017, 08:31 AM
+1
I bet Slater's touring wont make it all the way to Ohio for the meet. Yeah, I am pretty sure...unless he can prove otherwise :)
This.
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slater
08-02-2017, 09:17 AM
I thought anything and everything can fit inside a touring.
Either way I would be interested in it.
Was there ever any doubt?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170802/e2ccec8752156aa901db9d3a61b9ca87.jpg
please excuse the dirt in the back of the Touring... and the fuzz on the bottom edge of the headliner. ;)
+1
I bet Slater's touring wont make it all the way to Ohio for the meet. Yeah, I am pretty sure...unless he can prove otherwise :)
hey now! ;)
az3579
08-02-2017, 09:39 AM
It can't lie flat. Doesn't fit.
Back to the drawing board.
704sw
08-02-2017, 09:43 AM
It can't lie flat. Doesn't fit.
Back to the drawing board.
Yea that simply won't do. Basically on par with bungee cording it to the roof rails.
Dang it Peter. That one is in much better shape then what is currently in Sketchi.
Looks like something like this without the clips
30707
ZHPizza
08-02-2017, 11:50 AM
Dang it Peter. That one is in much better shape then what is currently in Sketchi.
Looks like something like this without the clips
30707
Those Canadian cars are pristine on the inside. I was so confused when I was riding in the back of Peter's sedan. I'm looking around and touching all of these 10+ year old headliner/pillar bits and wondering if he replaced them within the last year. Nope, kept them in the freezer.
ZHPizza
08-02-2017, 02:41 PM
Uhh so I just got my new ACDelco battery from Amazon and the date code says it was manufactured in October of 2017...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170802/247ca786f958bb3d24f8892047d75f7f.jpg
http://acdelcocanada.com/files/large/3608ec7ecc31a8c
Edit: Just got off the phone with ACDelco and apparently they print their labels for the year and use them up as they go. They've been pumping out more batteries than expected this year, so they're already into the October labels. Free 3 months of warranty coverage!
Those Canadian cars are pristine on the inside. I was so confused when I was riding in the back of Peter's sedan. I'm looking around and touching all of these 10+ year old headliner/pillar bits and wondering if he replaced them within the last year. Nope, kept them in the freezer.That's good news. Hopefully things workout.
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704sw
08-02-2017, 04:22 PM
Uhh so I just got my new ACDelco battery from Amazon and the date code says it was manufactured in October of 2017...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170802/247ca786f958bb3d24f8892047d75f7f.jpg
http://acdelcocanada.com/files/large/3608ec7ecc31a8c
Just got off the phone with ACDelco and apparently they print their labels for the year and use them up as they go. They've been pumping out more batteries than expected this year, so they're already into the October labels. Free 3 months of warranty coverage!
http://media.riffsy.com/images/0d6cbb16d67e729b2e05077f1142c11a/tenor.gif
BMWCurves
08-06-2017, 11:52 AM
What do you think is a fair price for a used OEM E46 shark fin? There's one for sale on E46F in Orient Blue which is tough to find. I've always liked the look even though I don't have any use for the original antenna (I don't have BMW Assist) and it would be poser-ish (YOLO). The upside is it could be retrofitted as a GPS antenna or some other antenna in the future if I went the route of a aftermarket GPS head unit a la Dynavin, Avin, etc.
fredo
08-06-2017, 12:56 PM
No clue. What's the asking price ?
BMWCurves
08-06-2017, 01:08 PM
No clue. What's the asking price ?
I haven't heard back from the seller, and it's not posted in their FS ad.
ZHPizza
08-06-2017, 02:43 PM
What do you think is a fair price for a used OEM E46 shark fin? There's one for sale on E46F in Orient Blue which is tough to find. I've always liked the look even though I don't have any use for the original antenna (I don't have BMW Assist) and it would be poser-ish (YOLO). The upside is it could be retrofitted as a GPS antenna or some other antenna in the future if I went the route of a aftermarket GPS head unit a la Dynavin, Avin, etc.The GPS antenna for an aftermarket unit works fine in the dash....but would theoretically work better on the roof under a shark fin...
Probably look stupid tho.
BMWCurves
08-06-2017, 07:12 PM
The GPS antenna for an aftermarket unit works fine in the dash....but would theoretically work better on the roof under a shark fin...
Probably look stupid tho.
http://i.imgur.com/Y9MIK77.gif
Fenrir
08-07-2017, 07:32 AM
Hey guys. Time for another annoying, beating a dead horse, and normally debated quiestion. Yep, I used search, the most recent thread I found was a few years old, thought I'd ask.
I'm getting a clutch job and drivetrain refresh performed by a local shop here in town. I was chatting with the owner and we're deciding what to do about the new clutch assembly. I've been running the organic UUC with the light weight flywheel. I've loved it, chatter and all. It's been easy to drive with, never had any stalling issues, and makes 1st and 2nd gear pulls feel like I'm driving a scalded rat. The issue now is that the car will be seeing less and less track time and going back to a sometimes daily/mostly weekend status.
So my question is this, having lived with the light weight single mass setup for a few years, is there any advantage to going back to OEM versus what I'm running now? I've never driven a stock E46 or ZHP so I really don't know what the OE setup feels like. I will say that I really enjoy how quickly the light weight setup revs across the band and accelerates in the first few gears. Plus, this setup has survived a little over 100k miles with the previous owner tracking it all over Europe and myself tracking here in the states.
At this point, I just want it back on the road full time. But I also don't want to get back into the car and feel like I sold myself short on the purchase. Especially considering the other mods on the car. It's not a "fast" car with the current setup. But strike me blind if it isn't quick in the corners.
Also, that 3.46 Helical video review is in the works. Just as soon as I get this back on the road. Only took me a few years to get around to it.
ZHPizza
08-07-2017, 09:00 AM
http://i.imgur.com/Y9MIK77.gif
Exactly the response I was hoping for.
Hey guys. Time for another annoying, beating a dead horse, and normally debated quiestion. Yep, I used search, the most recent thread I found was a few years old, thought I'd ask.
I'm getting a clutch job and drivetrain refresh performed by a local shop here in town. I was chatting with the owner and we're deciding what to do about the new clutch assembly. I've been running the organic UUC with the light weight flywheel. I've loved it, chatter and all. It's been easy to drive with, never had any stalling issues, and makes 1st and 2nd gear pulls feel like I'm driving a scalded rat. The issue now is that the car will be seeing less and less track time and going back to a sometimes daily/mostly weekend status.
So my question is this, having lived with the light weight single mass setup for a few years, is there any advantage to going back to OEM versus what I'm running now? I've never driven a stock E46 or ZHP so I really don't know what the OE setup feels like. I will say that I really enjoy how quickly the light weight setup revs across the band and accelerates in the first few gears. Plus, this setup has survived a little over 100k miles with the previos owner tracking it all over Europe and myself tracking here in the states.
At this point, I just want it back on the road full time. But I also don't want to get back into the car and feel like I sold myself short on the purchase. Especially considering the other mods on the car. It's not a "fast" car with the current setup. But strike me blind if it isn't quick in the corners.
Also, that 3.46 Helical video review is in the works. Just as soon as I get this back on the road. Only took me a few years to get around to it.
I think the chatter is the only downside to a SMF from what I can remember. I also think that the OE clutch/DMF would be more expensive than your current parts.
Sockethead
08-07-2017, 09:04 AM
If that's the clutch you're used to and like, I see no reason to change it...
BMWCurves
08-07-2017, 09:25 AM
Alternatively, you could see if you could find someone in your area with an E46 with a stock clutch and give their car a drive to see how it feels.
But I think there isn't much downside apart from the chatter of a lightweight SMF.
Fenrir
08-07-2017, 10:12 AM
Thanks for the input guys! I really appreciate it. Perhaps I can convince a local owner to let me tag along for a ride, Curves.
The aftermarket setup is cheaper than OE. And I really.... Reeeaaally like the way it feels. If the only thing I'm gaining from going OE is not having the transmission sound like it's eating itself..... I'm ok with that. Plus the faces of passengers when clutch chatter happens is priceless.
Sent from a blue police box.
danewilson77
08-07-2017, 02:42 PM
What do you think is a fair price for a used OEM E46 shark fin? There's one for sale on E46F in Orient Blue which is tough to find. I've always liked the look even though I don't have any use for the original antenna (I don't have BMW Assist) and it would be poser-ish (YOLO). The upside is it could be retrofitted as a GPS antenna or some other antenna in the future if I went the route of a aftermarket GPS head unit a la Dynavin, Avin, etc.$50
Sent from my S8+
stephenkirsh
08-08-2017, 03:58 PM
Getting ready to install my PSS10.
I've read the "L" is supposed to line up with the grove in the knuckle with the pinch bolt, but is it the letter "L" itself or the little vertical line next to it?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/50351c03faca9f3aa6422cd59ea9a329.jpg
Sockethead
08-08-2017, 06:27 PM
I see what you mean.... Damn those Germans
az3579
08-08-2017, 06:29 PM
I would imagine it's the line. There's another alignment line above the 'M'.
stephenkirsh
08-08-2017, 06:30 PM
I would imagine it's the line. There's another alignment line above the 'M'.
Interesting... good eye.
az3579
08-08-2017, 06:32 PM
Interesting... good eye.
I've got two good eyes. :biggrin
At least I hope so... been a while since the last optometrist visit. lol
704sw
08-09-2017, 04:17 AM
What's the Mafia's opinion on poly v. rubber subframe and diff bushings? A little extra NVH isn't really a big deal, but within reason.
Although I'd like to get her on a track a couple times a year, it is a daily driver.
Aeternalis
08-09-2017, 04:23 AM
What's the Mafia's opinion on poly v. rubber subframe and diff bushings? A little extra NVH isn't really a big deal, but within reason.
Although I'd like to get her on a track a couple times a year, it is a daily driver.
I went with AKG "black" poly bushings for my rear subframe and differential when I did my suspension last year. No complaints; almost imperceptible NVH increase from the stiffer material. Lemforder rubber or ball joints everywhere else. Drives great.
az3579
08-09-2017, 04:48 AM
What's the Mafia's opinion on poly v. rubber subframe and diff bushings? A little extra NVH isn't really a big deal, but within reason.
Although I'd like to get her on a track a couple times a year, it is a daily driver.
I went with AKG poly bushings for the diff and kind of regret it. Since the car is primarily driven on the street, the extra harshness from not getting a rev-match perfect is a little too annoying for my taste. Since I did the diff bushings, I've been getting too much mechanical noise during shifts that's also starting to remind me of the reason I got rid of my E30 (constant clunking when shifting).
For someone who doesn't drive 30k a year but instead 10-15, I would recommend OE bushings everywhere as the longevity of poly will probably never be realized during the ownership period...
704sw
08-09-2017, 05:12 AM
I went with AKG "black" poly bushings for my rear subframe and differential when I did my suspension last year. No complaints; almost imperceptible NVH increase from the stiffer material. Lemforder rubber or ball joints everywhere else. Drives great.
I've read a lot about everything and I'm having a little reservation on poly being too firm, especially the AKG black. Are you tracking often?
I went with AKG poly bushings for the diff and kind of regret it. Since the car is primarily driven on the street, the extra harshness from not getting a rev-match perfect is a little too annoying for my taste. Since I did the diff bushings, I've been getting too much mechanical noise during shifts that's also starting to remind me of the reason I got rid of my E30 (constant clunking when shifting).
For someone who doesn't drive 30k a year but instead 10-15, I would recommend OE bushings everywhere as the longevity of poly will probably never be realized during the ownership period...
Perfect, thanks BP! It also doesn't break my heart that OE is cheaper [emoji4] I can get a mixture of Lemmy and Febi for all 7 bushings in the subframe carrier for about $75 with FCP's lifetime guarantee [emoji1303]
Aeternalis
08-09-2017, 05:19 AM
I've read a lot about everything and I'm having a little reservation on poly being too firm, especially the AKG black. Are you tracking often?
I don't track my car at all, nor do I plan to do so. Then again my last car (Mazdaspeed Protege) was very harsh with a full set of 88 durometer poly motor mounts so I probably notice increased NVH less than others, but even with the poly I will say my car rides very well. :)
Sockethead
08-09-2017, 05:38 AM
I've read a lot about everything and I'm having a little reservation on poly being too firm, especially the AKG black. Are you tracking often?
Ditto here. Hate the drivetrain windup with the stock bushings especially with the LSD and SC but I don't want to turn my car into a vibrating chair...
What's the Mafia's opinion on poly v. rubber subframe and diff bushings? A little extra NVH isn't really a big deal, but within reason.
Although I'd like to get her on a track a couple times a year, it is a daily driver.
Go with rubber.
slater
08-09-2017, 06:41 AM
Ditto here. Hate the drivetrain windup with the stock bushings especially with the LSD and SC but I don't want to turn my car into a vibrating chair...
it won't. i have ECS poly diff bushings (88A) and AKG poly subframe mounts (90A i believe), and no NVH increase; only locked-down rear end and much, much better power application. there is a some whine from the diff transmitted into the cabin, but i don't mind it at all.
to put it in perspective: i am CRAZY anal about vibrations and NVH. the UUC black trans mounts i run add some NVH at low revs and that bothers me, but the shifting quality is worth the trade-off. if the poly bits in the diff and subframe were causing increased NVH i would probably go back to rubber.
and, after driving rubber-bushed cars again (my Tourings), and i very much looking forward to getting the sedan's poly bits into the red Touring!
az3579
08-09-2017, 06:51 AM
Ditto here. Hate the drivetrain windup with the stock bushings especially with the LSD and SC but I don't want to turn my car into a vibrating chair...
The what? What is this drivetrain windup you speak of?
Sockethead
08-09-2017, 06:58 AM
When you shift hard between gears all those rubber bushings absorb some of the power instead of transferring to the wheels... Hard to really describe. I call it squishy... You can hear it and feel it..
slater
08-09-2017, 07:15 AM
When you shift hard between gears all those rubber bushings absorb some of the power instead of transferring to the wheels... Hard to really describe. I call it squishy... You can hear it and feel it..
you can totally feel it... and after driving the poly-bushed car, it's hard to go back. :)
az3579
08-09-2017, 07:38 AM
When you shift hard between gears all those rubber bushings absorb some of the power instead of transferring to the wheels... Hard to really describe. I call it squishy... You can hear it and feel it..
you can totally feel it... and after driving the poly-bushed car, it's hard to go back. :)
I haven't noticed a difference in power delivery, only comfort...
When the ac is on and I step on gas, I get a hint of burnt oil smell through the vents. Any ideas on what causes this?
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Reasoned1
08-09-2017, 02:19 PM
So, my AC wasn't working on my 330xi-6MT. I tried recharging the system hoping I'd get lucky but, as usual, that didn't happen. Hoping to get the job turned around quick, I brought the car to my non-certified but beloved mechanic. Well, he found a leak in the evaporator, and he said so much work is involved in getting at it (pulling the dash apart) that he passed on even doing the job. Since I'd prefer to buy a new LSD for my ZHP with the money it'd take to have the dealership fix it, I say "Screw the AC!" The big question is, Should I remove the compressor and other AC-related components to lighten the load?
az3579
08-09-2017, 05:45 PM
Removing the dash takes no time at all... you can have it out in an hour if you know what you're doing and two if you don't.
slater
08-09-2017, 06:17 PM
I haven't noticed a difference in power delivery, only comfort...
you're weird, i guess.
:)
az3579
08-10-2017, 03:38 AM
you're weird, i guess.
:)
Or maybe you're weird! :rofl
Reasoned1
08-10-2017, 04:24 AM
Removing the dash takes no time at all... you can have it out in an hour if you know what you're doing and two if you don't.
You talked me into getting a second opinion from a local indy who is BMW-certified.
Is Pentosin MTF2 a good manual transmission fluid option for the Zhp?
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az3579
08-10-2017, 05:08 AM
You talked me into getting a second opinion from a local indy who is BMW-certified.
Yeah, living without AC nowadays isn't cool (see what I did there???... it's pure misery. lol
At least with leather it is.
slater
08-10-2017, 05:36 AM
Or maybe you're weird! :rofl
well, we all know that! haha. :)
Yeah, living without AC nowadays isn't cool (see what I did there???... it's pure misery. lol
At least with leather it is.
i agree 100%. especially with kids... you can't blast them with open windows and sunroof all of the time...
Sockethead
08-10-2017, 05:40 AM
When the ac is on and I step on gas, I get a hint of burnt oil smell through the vents. Any ideas on what causes this?
IDK what causes it but my car gets that smell too...
Yeah, living without AC nowadays isn't cool (see what I did there???... it's pure misery. lol
At least with leather it is.
Yea, nothing like walking into a client's office with a dress shirt that's completely soaked in the back with sweat.
704sw
08-10-2017, 06:07 AM
Yea, nothing like walking into a client's office with a dress shirt that's completely soaked in the back with sweat.
That's why you wear a jacket :)
"It's Charleston, aren't you hot?"
"Yes, but it's less embarrassing and more hygienic this way. Enough about me, let's talk about you..."
Sockethead
08-10-2017, 06:09 AM
That's why you wear a jacket :)
"It's Charleston, aren't you hot?"
"Yes, but it's less embarrassing and more hygienic this way. Enough about me, let's talk about you..."
Lol, luckily, I'm not on the road all the time with this job. I just put a towel over the seat back...
BMWCurves
08-10-2017, 08:34 AM
Is Pentosin MTF2 a good manual transmission fluid option for the Zhp?
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I have no idea. Weren't you using Red Line MTL before? Why the switch?
I have no idea. Weren't you using Red Line MTL before? Why the switch?
Yup it's currently running with red line MTL. At first the gears shifted smoothly but as I put on more miles, the tranny doesn't seem too happy, especially the 1-2 shift. Just thought I'd try a different fluid this time. I was planning on going with the OEM oil but I did a little googling and found that pentosin works very well for the e46 M3. I'm fairly confident it works for the Zhp too but I wanted to confirm. Pentosin also stopped production of the MFT2, so they're not easily available but I found a shop close to work which has it in stock.
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ZHPizza
08-10-2017, 08:41 AM
Is Pentosin MTF2 a good manual transmission fluid option for the Zhp?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Most recommend ATF in for our manuals. I dug through threads for a few weeks and ended up with Red Line D4 ATF.
Reasoned1
08-10-2017, 09:22 AM
I misspoke... it was the evaporator that's leaking--hence the access issue and excessive labor. Got my second opinion and it was $1,500 as expected. To hell with that... fortunately, we hardly ever sweat in Vermont.
Yup it's currently running with red line MTL. At first the gears shifted smoothly but as I put on more miles, the tranny doesn't seem too happy, especially the 1-2 shift. Just thought I'd try a different fluid this time. I was planning on going with the OEM oil but I did a little googling and found that pentosin works very well for the e46 M3. I'm fairly confident it works for the Zhp too but I wanted to confirm. Pentosin also stopped production of the MFT2, so they're not easily available but I found a shop close to work which has it in stock.
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Redline ATF. Give that a try.
I liked it over MTL/MT90
slater
08-10-2017, 09:35 AM
Redline ATF. Give that a try.
I liked it over MTL/MT90
why did you like it better, vas?
i'm running BMW MTL now. it's.... OK.
holyc0w
08-10-2017, 10:46 AM
What's the difference? Is ATF fluid less viscous?
why did you like it better, vas?
i'm running BMW MTL now. it's.... OK.
The mt90 felt better when cold but the d4 atf is better when its warm. Just made it seem very smooth and not notchy.
ZHPizza
08-10-2017, 01:12 PM
https://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=13
From 1993 on, we recommend D4 ATF (yes, ATF in a manual transmission).
danewilson77
08-10-2017, 02:12 PM
Is Pentosin MTF2 a good manual transmission fluid option for the Zhp?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkFrom my maintenance thread.
*Changed tranny fluid to Pentosin MTF2 @ 150.3k miles
Changing out to D4 ATF soon.
Sent from my S8+
az3579
08-10-2017, 02:33 PM
Redline D4 ATF is where it's at. It's what I've used in my cars since I started driving.
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ELCID86
08-10-2017, 05:00 PM
Go with rubber.
+1
Sockethead
08-10-2017, 05:14 PM
Like a dumb ass, I left my passenger window open last night and it rained. There was an inch of water in the door cubby and a this stain from a red piece paper on the seat. Anyone know how to get that out?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/23bcea5300fde75ac462a3d3fc82bc0d.jpg
fredo
08-10-2017, 07:47 PM
No bueno. I have a similar stain on the Saab. In my case it was a plastic toy. It stayed there for several days and thanks to the TX heat the color transferred to the seat.
704sw
08-11-2017, 04:11 AM
Like a dumb ass, I left my passenger window open last night and it rained. There was an inch of water in the door cubby and a this stain from a red piece paper on the seat. Anyone know how to get that out?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/23bcea5300fde75ac462a3d3fc82bc0d.jpg
If you or your wife have a fabric steamer, I'd try that first. Wrap the end in a washcloth, and let the steam do the work.
Next option I've gotten to work on lighter colored leather, but haven't tried it on black: rubbing alcohol and a nylon brush followed by a couple rounds of leather conditioner.
Sockethead
08-11-2017, 05:21 AM
Ok thanks! Yes, we do have a steamer, I'll give that a try.
ZHPizza
08-11-2017, 05:24 AM
Had the weirdest issue with my tail light last night.
Was backing up to the garage and saw that my LR brake light wasn't coming on (no errors). Got out and verified that the inner section of the LEDs (lit in the picture below) were completely out, but the outer ones were on. Weird.
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wQA8clp1asU/hqdefault.jpg
I dug around and noticed that the lights would flicker on when I pressed on the cable connector...bad connection, right? No.
Finally realized that it wasn't the connector and was actually from me pressing on the board itself. I used a plastic tool to press on a few exposed spots (you can see the green board in the below pic) and it started working fine.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=220177&d=1267422967
w.t.f.
Sockethead
08-11-2017, 05:38 AM
Are those OEM? Eagle eyes have varying issues but usuall its with the LEDs themselves. I have a bunch out in one of my turn sugnsls
Thanks for the advise guys. Think I will go with redline D4ATF
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ZHPizza
08-11-2017, 07:27 AM
Are those OEM? Eagle eyes have varying issues but usuall its with the LEDs themselves. I have a bunch out in one of my turn sugnslsI'm pretty sure they're OEM and were replaced about a year ago when the car was rear ended. I don't see a part number anywhere though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/b291733e1f70e42bfb30236768675c27.jpg
704sw
08-11-2017, 07:31 AM
I'm pretty sure they're OEM and were replaced about a year ago when the car was rear ended. I don't see a part number anywhere though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/b291733e1f70e42bfb30236768675c27.jpg
If you're itching to play around with a soldering iron, I'll bring you what's left of my spare housing tomorrow.
ZHPizza
08-11-2017, 07:43 AM
If you're itching to play around with a soldering iron, I'll bring you what's left of my spare housing tomorrow.
Fo sho. Bring that PA soft too fam.
Sockethead
08-11-2017, 07:46 AM
Failure when pressing on a circuit board is usually a bad trace on the board or a bad solder joint. It should be fairly easy to re-solder all the connections...
az3579
08-11-2017, 08:15 AM
I'm pretty sure they're OEM and were replaced about a year ago when the car was rear ended. I don't see a part number anywhere though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/b291733e1f70e42bfb30236768675c27.jpg
The part number looks like the stamping on the bottom next to 'US Pat'.
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ZHPizza
08-11-2017, 08:41 AM
Failure when pressing on a circuit board is usually a bad trace on the board or a bad solder joint. It should be fairly easy to re-solder all the connections...I know nothing of soldering boards. I'll have to get up on some YouTubes to figure this one out.
The part number looks like the stamping on the bottom next to 'US Pat'.
Sent from my Pixel using TapatalkThat's the patent number yo
az3579
08-11-2017, 08:46 AM
That's the patent number yo
It looks just like a BMW 7 digit part number... yo. That's why I suggested it. Lol
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holyc0w
08-11-2017, 08:49 AM
Here's some great reading about the patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US6575611
What's the number on the sticker? 75923681?
John in VA
08-11-2017, 09:56 AM
I don't see a part number anywhere though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/b291733e1f70e42bfb30236768675c27.jpg
What about the # in the middle right, under the lines with "ABS?" Looks like it might be broken into 2 lines, followed by the "L."
ZHPizza
08-11-2017, 10:18 AM
Here's some great reading about the patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US6575611
What's the number on the sticker? 75923681?The sticker is on the wiring harness so I ignored it
What about the # in the middle right, under the lines with "ABS?" Looks like it might be broken into 2 lines, followed by the "L."Yeah it's some BS. No BMW part number that I can see on the base plate anywhere.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/f0b12c5f542ae76f9b76619776b8fe07.jpg
anandoc
08-11-2017, 12:22 PM
The sticker is on the wiring harness so I ignored it
Yeah it's some BS. No BMW part number that I can see on the base plate anywhere.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170811/f0b12c5f542ae76f9b76619776b8fe07.jpg
The part# should be on a sticker (which ofcourse would have peeled off - stupid BMW supplier)
https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/417708_x800.jpg
BMWCurves
08-12-2017, 12:15 PM
There's still no one out there that's figured out how to get shift lights on an E46 M3 cluster to work on a non-M car, correct? This guy seems to have but it doesn't really look right, like it's just all at once at 6,500 RPM:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYAudhc02nQ
Hoping (in vain lol) that Terra will eventually figure it out but I doubt car mods anywhere on his radar right now.
ELCID86
08-12-2017, 12:39 PM
There's still no one out there that's figured out how to get shift lights on an E46 M3 cluster to work on a non-M car, correct? This guy seems to have but it doesn't really look right, like it's just all at once at 6,500 RPM:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYAudhc02nQ
Hoping (in vain lol) that Terra will eventually figure it out but I doubt car mods anywhere on his radar right now.
Want.
Prestovie
08-15-2017, 12:46 PM
2nd gear seems to be rather difficult to smoothly engage lately. First and third are both fine, clutch was replaced just 6months ago. I mean I really have to "grind" it, first gear is normal and third gear is a breeze.
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az3579
08-16-2017, 04:35 AM
Could someone please find me the part number for the plastic cap thing in the spare tire well that holds the trunk floor up? I didn't realize that this piece existed, so after struggling with the floor collapsing for years under the weight of my tool box, I'm fed up. Now that I know it exists, I need to buy one, but can't for the life of me find the part number.
It's the black cap in this pic:
30815
ZHPizza
08-16-2017, 04:41 AM
Could someone please find me the part number for the plastic cap thing in the spare tire well that holds the trunk floor up? I didn't realize that this piece existed, so after struggling with the floor collapsing for years under the weight of my tool box, I'm fed up. Now that I know it exists, I need to buy one, but can't for the life of me find the part number.
It's the black cap in this pic:
30815
#gotem
Pad H=50MM 1 51471944899 $3.37
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-01-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=71_0183
az3579
08-16-2017, 07:43 AM
#gotem
Pad H=50MM 1 51471944899 $3.37
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-01-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=71_0183
THANK YOU!
RealOEM is such a biotch to browse sometimes...
Category "Equipment Parts > Car tool/lifting jack" = LOL
L0veZHP
08-16-2017, 04:15 PM
What do you guys think?
-Tint the front windshield 35%?
(Leave the 20% on the sides)
- Remove the tints and go lighter %?
- Fish Bowl?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170817/1e92d3920293baf7cecfb8d183c9338b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170817/9f49c2c7fcf5a2a25d310d78c0fb76a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170817/2660b9b45ca5383063242da0572e9ee9.pnghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170817/2fd7a82216da5c88eee097b0fb409178.png
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704sw
08-16-2017, 04:26 PM
I know people like the fish bowl look, so this will be an unpopular opinion: I'd definitely keep some kind of tint. You put WAY too much into that interior to let the sun destroy it. I think 20% is too dark, and I'm not keen on tinted windshields (Air Blue 80 is okay, though). I have 40% and think it looks great with the dark headliner. From the outside it's actually a touch darker than I'd prefer, but it looks darker because of the black seats.
L0veZHP
08-16-2017, 04:36 PM
I've been reading a lot of forums and everyone really has a different opinion. I like the tints just because I live in NYC and I don't feel too comfortable having everyone look at me. While I'm parking or at a light it's just crazy really. And having tints in NYC is kinda "boss" lol.
The other day I drove super clean with all my windows down and my sunroof open around NYC and got plenty of compliments from people. And people actually saw my interior for a change. The combo is too good smh. Also clear windows I think would look super clean and classy! But idk about getting rid of my tints.
I've been thinking or removing them and riding around fish then eventually getting 50%-35% all around even the windshield
P.S: The fishbowl look in NYC, at least for me is actually kinda rare and different. I always try to notice nice, clean cars with them but never actually see or find clean cars like ours with fishbowled out.
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704sw
08-16-2017, 04:49 PM
One other option is to go the route BP went, and get Air Blue 80 all around. Basically fish bowl, but you still get the UV protection and heat reduction. Just food for thought.
L0veZHP
08-16-2017, 04:58 PM
Doesn't that have a blueish tint? I remember him posting pictures one day[emoji848]
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holyc0w
08-16-2017, 06:03 PM
Doesn't that have a blueish tint? I remember him posting pictures one day[emoji848]
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hence the blue in air blue :D
az3579
08-16-2017, 08:27 PM
One other option is to go the route BP went, and get Air Blue 80 all around. Basically fish bowl, but you still get the UV protection and heat reduction. Just food for thought.
I second this.
Doesn't that have a blueish tint? I remember him posting pictures one day[emoji848]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes. Looks fresh as hell IMO. All the sun protection without having to worry about getting pulled over.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/34373661984_e00a790d98_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Unu19y)IMG_20170609_192459 (https://flic.kr/p/Unu19y) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/34408895833_bd9a72a65f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UqAzWH)IMG_20170609_192428 (https://flic.kr/p/UqAzWH) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr
ELCID86
08-17-2017, 02:57 AM
#gotem
PadH=50MM151471944899$3.37
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-01-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=71_0183
I think a lot of cars are missing this piece.
I recently went with 35% and really like it. Got tired of the fishbowl look.
webster
08-17-2017, 06:33 AM
35% here as well. in texas heat, tint is mandatory.
slater
08-17-2017, 07:05 AM
Yes. Looks fresh as hell IMO. All the sun protection without having to worry about getting pulled over.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/34408895833_bd9a72a65f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UqAzWH)IMG_20170609_192428 (https://flic.kr/p/UqAzWH) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr
BP, this looks great - exactly what i want for both Tourings. how much did it cost to get this done?
704sw
08-17-2017, 07:19 AM
BP, this looks great - exactly what i want for both Tourings. how much did it cost to get this done?
Peter, the guy who tinted my windows said Llumar film is basically the same price regardless of which you go with. Down here ~$300 freedom dollars is the going rate for a sedan/coupe, and $400 was the SUV rate. I'd think a touring would be in between the two.
Added bonus: I'd think the Air Blue 80 doesn't look as shitty on the dot matrix. That's speculation, though.
slater
08-17-2017, 08:44 AM
Peter, the guy who tinted my windows said Llumar film is basically the same price regardless of which you go with. Down here ~$300 freedom dollars is the going rate for a sedan/coupe, and $400 was the SUV rate. I'd think a touring would be in between the two.
Added bonus: I'd think the Air Blue 80 doesn't look as shitty on the dot matrix. That's speculation, though.
hmmm, thanks. the Touring really only has a tiny bit more glass... the rear hatch glass it smaller than the coupe/sedan rear window, for sure.
i gotta check it out.
az3579
08-17-2017, 08:59 AM
BP, this looks great - exactly what i want for both Tourings. how much did it cost to get this done?
I paid $400 for front windshield, front and rear side windows, and rear windshield.
ZHPizza
08-17-2017, 09:06 AM
I paid $400 for front windshield, front and rear side windows, and rear windshield.
That's a good price. It's usually $300 for sides/rear and an extra $150 for windshield when you're talking about a quality film.
az3579
08-17-2017, 09:19 AM
That's a good price. It's usually $300 for sides/rear and an extra $150 for windshield when you're talking about a quality film.
$400... $450... same thing. lol
He actually had me pay the $100 for the windshield in cash because it couldn't be on the receipt. Film on the windshield here is illegal...
slater
08-17-2017, 09:24 AM
I paid $400 for front windshield, front and rear side windows, and rear windshield.
thanks, that's about what i was expecting. so like $600CAD...
L0veZHP
08-17-2017, 10:25 AM
I think a lot of cars are missing this piece.
I actually ordered those pieces for my car, one time I blew a tire and I didn't have anything.
Anymore pictures of BPs Blue tints [emoji102]
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704sw
08-17-2017, 11:39 AM
Do you guys think this interior is worth considering (knowing I'd have to repair the driver's seat)? I'll be about 1hr away from the seller this weekend, and the post has been up a while, meaning I might have some room for negotiation.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1136345
Do you guys think this interior is worth considering (knowing I'd have to repair the driver's seat)? I'll be about 1hr away from the seller this weekend, and the post has been up a while, meaning I might have some room for negotiation.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1136345
The driver seat seems to be in pretty bad shape, not sure how much of it is repairable. So you plan on replacing the estoril interior with this?
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holyc0w
08-17-2017, 12:04 PM
Alcanteara or bust
Sreten
08-17-2017, 12:17 PM
Dude, do not touch those M3 seats! These are pretty rough.
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