The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[Sockethead]

Also, a lot of those lightweight flywheels are designed so that you can replace just surface and not the whole flywheel. You might want to check into that

[roadbiker_2]

I need a new clutch... whole thing needs to be replaced. Fml just got the call from the dealership, total would come to $2400 including the flywheel.
I honestly don't want a 25lbs flywheel, so they said I can order one and bring it in to have them install the whole clutch set.
God damnit


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Sorry to hear that, that was why I questioned the replacement of the pressure plate only. Well at least you will know when this was installed and how it will be driven from this point forward.


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[Prestovie]

Sorry to hear that, that was why I questioned the replacement of the pressure plate only. Well at least you will know when this was installed and how it will be driven from this point forward.


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That's true, it'll be nice driving a brand new clutch


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[Prestovie]

Also, a lot of those lightweight flywheels are designed so that you can replace just surface and not the whole flywheel. You might want to check into that

They said it was cracked:/ I'm gonna go take a look at it in a couple hours for myself


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[Prestovie]

Anyone have any recommendations for a full clutch kit with lightweight flywheel?


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[Prestovie]

I don't think clutches fail this dramatically so quickly... wouldn't have it been slipping for a while before it would wear out like this?

Yeah in hindsight I'm starting to think it wasn't necessary right at this moment, but now it's apart at the dealership and I would have been freaking out about driving it. Usually when stuff goes wrong with my car I try to resolve or start a resolution within that day or the next at max


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[Prestovie]

(By the way the thread just rolled over to 4K congrats guys lol) so, news, went and talked to the guys at the dealership and they helped me find the exact clutch that was already in the car, so I just ordered it and it should be here by Monday, gosh I'm excited but also it's still not a good thing haha https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/66ae51ab2295143c1d567708eb732737.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/e5418b74aa9faaf957ffdb196472ee5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170310/88ae3e8a5cc179301e811d36fae87db0.jpg


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[downshift]

Hi guys,

My car is making some fast (3 per second) clicking noises in clusters of about 5 every once in a while during idle, and the car will simultaneously drop idle rpm from 600 to 500 for about one second. The car makes the same noises every time it shuts down. Is this normal, and could someone point me toward the part of this thread that discusses it? I'm sure it exists but I haven't been able to find it.

Thanks,
Josh

[roadbiker_2]

Josh, is this something you can record on your phone? Both the noise and show the tach?


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[downshift]

Can I text it to someone? I'm mobile and will be for quite a while. I can't seem to upload videos from my phone.

My number is+16507148118

[roadbiker_2]

Sure


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[holyc0w]

Do the ZKW and AL headlights need different plastic lens replacements?

edit: Found the thread. It seems that either one should work.

[holyc0w]

What is the fix for the foglights fogging up?

Also, should the headlight lens gasket be replaced when replacing the lenses? Is that a typical replacement item?

[Dual]

What is the fix for the foglights fogging up? Also, should the headlight lens gasket be replaced when replacing the lenses? Is that a typical replacement item? I'm new- forgive me, but I find myself really wanting to know which ZHP variant you're dealing with.

[holyc0w]

It's a 2004 sedan.

[az3579]

What is the fix for the foglights fogging up?


Buying new ones.

[704sw]

Buying new ones.

This is the correct answer.
Or, you know, be weird and retrofit.

[holyc0w]

This is the correct answer.
Or, you know, be weird and retrofit.

Oi.. I'm not sure I would want to see how that retrofit would go. I'll be keeping the fogs for now and the headlight lenses. The lenses are still pretty clear and the car isn't in perfect shape.

[Prestovie]

Quick Q: noticed that when I took my front left wheel off there was a nice 6in crack going down the front bumper wheel well. Nothing major but I mean it's there haha, I have found a couple of curbs on occasion but I didn't think I cracked the bumper... :/ ideas? I mean other than getting a whole new bumper, can it be repaired and will it effect anything? Can't be seen without taking wheel off(when looking at wheel well it's on the inside left by that fog light duct


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[holyc0w]

Any pictures?

[Prestovie]

Any pictures?

I'll try to get some soon, gotta take the whole wheel off haha should've thought about it the last time I was working on my brakes :/


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[sillieidiot]

well if it's the black plastic part behind the bumper that you're talking about then that could be replaced

[Prestovie]

well if it's the black plastic part behind the bumper that you're talking about then that could be replaced

Oh awesome ok thanks

Also, with regards to my other posts, dealership just called to let me know that the clutch plate wasn't fitting that it was too big, and the throw out bearing was too small... so they can use their own bearing to fit it but the clutch plate is a bust. Said they'll try to fit in a plate they have at the shop but god damnit everything that could go wrong is going wrong


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[az3579]

Oh awesome ok thanks

Also, with regards to my other posts, dealership just called to let me know that the clutch plate wasn't fitting that it was too big, and the throw out bearing was too small... so they can use their own bearing to fit it but the clutch plate is a bust. Said they'll try to fit in a plate they have at the shop but god damnit everything that could go wrong is going wrong


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This is why it's easiest to stick with OE parts... lol

[Prestovie]

This is why it's easiest to stick with OE parts... lol

Haha yeah yeah, but have you ever driven a ZHP with a 12lbs flywheel? There's no going back lol


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[az3579]

Haha yeah yeah, but have you ever driven a ZHP with a 12lbs flywheel? There's no going back lol


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No, but my E30 had a 13lb flywheel. The rattle drove me up a wall!
I had no problem switching to my ZHP when I sold the E30.

[Prestovie]

No, but my E30 had a 13lb flywheel. The rattle drove me up a wall!
I had no problem switching to my ZHP when I sold the E30.

Oh well the rattle in the ZHP is only really noticeable from outside the car unless she's really chilly


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[Prestovie]

Ok good news, they called me back and told me that they were able to configure it so that they used the OEM plate with their own bearing and it managed to fit the flywheel. Should be done within the next couple hours :thumbup

[az3579]

Oh well the rattle in the ZHP is only really noticeable from outside the car unless she's really chilly


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It's funny you say that because I don't care about the rattle... but I care about what other people think. lol
It's the same reason why I hated driving with my track pads on my car for a day or two; the looks I get from the noise they made was embarrassing! Of course, I tend to care too much about what other people think about my car, so there's that. :(


Ok good news, they called me back and told me that they were able to configure it so that they used the OEM plate with their own bearing and it managed to fit the flywheel. Should be done within the next couple hours :thumbup

Great news! It's good when you have a shop that can use some ingenuity to fix a problem. :thumbsup

[Prestovie]

It's funny you say that because I don't care about the rattle... but I care about what other people think. lol
It's the same reason why I hated driving with my track pads on my car for a day or two; the looks I get from the noise they made was embarrassing! Of course, I tend to care too much about what other people think about my car, so there's that. :(

Haha I couldn't agree more, but until someone points out the chatter then I'll live with it, the brakes on the other hand I cringe because I know so badly what you're saying, many comments about the squeal have led me to dissembling my calipers and greasing them up. Way too self conscience about my own car [emoji28]


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[az3579]

Sometimes it's not even that someone points it out. Most of the time, people stay quiet... but it's that thought in the back of my head that says "what are they thinking??" that gets me!

I also refuse to drive a car with broken/damaged body panels for that reason. It's "embarrassing".
Need to stop being so damn particular... sigh

[Prestovie]

FML just got ANOTHER call from the shop to tell me that they tried everything but the flywheel wasn't fitting or something and that they'd exhausted all options. So my only route now is to go back to a stock 25lbs flywheel.
I guess it's fine but I'm still pretty pissed about it, haven't had my car for the past week and now they have to order the parts again, and I also have to return the parts that I ordered from ECS. I don't understand how they could fit one time and now not fit anymore.
Can anyone attest to going from a lightweight flywheel back to stock? Honestly worried that it'll feel bogged down in comparison... not bashing the stock ZHP but it's not going to be a fun transition


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[roadbiker_2]

FML just got ANOTHER call from the shop to tell me that they tried everything but the flywheel wasn't fitting or something and that they'd exhausted all options. So my only route now is to go back to a stock 25lbs flywheel.
I guess it's fine but I'm still pretty pissed about it, haven't had my car for the past week and now they have to order the parts again, and I also have to return the parts that I ordered from ECS. I don't understand how they could fit one time and now not fit anymore.
Can anyone attest to going from a lightweight flywheel back to stock? Honestly worried that it'll feel bogged down in comparison... not bashing the stock ZHP but it's not going to be a fun transition


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Hey, just got back from Japan and they had my IP address blocked (that's a good thing), how is the new clutch?


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[roadbiker_2]

Hey, just got back from Japan and they had my IP address blocked (that's a good thing), how is the new clutch?


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Did this get resolved. I know that there is a difference in flywheels between the 5 speed and 6 speed as the bearing that the input shaft sits in, from the transmission, is different. Honestly, they should know that, but keep in mind that this is an aftermarket part. Did they get this fixed for you or are you still down?


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[Prestovie]

Hey, just got back from Japan and they had my IP address blocked (that's a good thing), how is the new clutch?


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Haha no problem, I continued the thread in "What I Did for my ZHP" because these weren't really questions [emoji28]. It's interesting to say the least, not used to being able to kick the clutch to the floor with little to no effort, but I'm slowly getting used to it. I can see how it will be nicer in traffic haha, but for now there's a 800-1000 shift break in period until I can do "racing maneuvers". Ended up costing me $3600! A good $1500 over what I was expecting, but at least I'm driving again. I missed my baby


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[roadbiker_2]

So you ended up going with a stock clutch assembly then? Noticeable difference then I take it.


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[Prestovie]

So you ended up going with a stock clutch assembly then? Noticeable difference then I take it.


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Unfortunately yes, not that I don't like the stock ZHP just that I'm not used to it. It's a lighter, smoother, kick, that's going to take some time before I'm used to it. Last one was very heavy and extremely sensitive. So it's a nice change and I don't know if it's just me but I'm noticing a tiny bit of torque at 2 grand


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[roadbiker_2]

Good, as you have a manual, you might try running some underdrive pulleys to make up for some of your loss of rotational torque from that flywheel change.


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[Prestovie]

Good, as you have a manual, you might try running some underdrive pulleys to make up for some of your loss of rotational torque from that flywheel change.


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Actually? Haven't heard of doing that, can I do it myself or do I need to pull the engine?


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[roadbiker_2]

No, here is a link. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-motorsport-parts/turner-motorsport-power-pulley-kit/ppk-e46-m54/?gclid=CMHRqN7k3tICFRO1wAodS1EDCQ there are others as well.


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[Sockethead]

I got UUC under drive pulleys years ago... I definitely noticed a difference. They are the fan belt pulleys, super easy to do

[ZHPizza]

Anyone know the P/N for this little booger?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170318/636551e6669ba2863608462038c031da.jpg

Edit: FOUND IT. JESUS CHRIST AFTER A MONTH OF SEARCHING I FREAKING FOUND IT.

Part no 51718215962

[704sw]

Filter cover?

[ZHPizza]

Filter cover?
Similar to those, but this is shaped a little different. It goes right here in front of the fuse box:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170318/be6710295ef6c9bd1c301722153ebe30.jpg

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[Lorenzo]

My headlights are extremely dim. I could barely see at night and with the rain it was almost as if my headlights weren't on but the bulbs are not out. I saw some old threads on this but I am not clear on what the fix is. It seem quite complicated. I appreciate any advice thanks.


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[Lorenzo]

Another problem I've noticed in the past few weeks is an intermittent problem with the engine shudders at around 2500 to 3000 RPM - typically in third sometimes fourth gear. It occurs when you're pressing down on the accelerator but the engine is hesitating to accelerate forward. you could feel it almost jerking a bit forward and backwards before it catches and goes forward yet I'm not changing gears when it occurs. And then you get past it and it's OK. I heard there is a known issue about this and it requires some kind of software update.

I appreciate some advice.



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[holyc0w]

My headlights are extremely dim. I could barely see at night and with the rain it was almost as if my headlights weren't on but the bulbs are not out. I saw some old threads on this but I am not clear on what the fix is. It seem quite complicated. I appreciate any advice thanks.

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Are your headlights from ZKW?

If it's burnt bowls the options are:
-replace headlights with AL headlights
-replace bowls with clemsone46 bowls (see http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19695-Replaced-ZKW-burnt-bowls-today for review)
-retrofit the headlights using a kit such as https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/application-specific/morimoto-retroquik-bmw-e46-zkw-repair.html

[Sockethead]

Or have a place like lighwekz do the retrofit for you

[holyc0w]

TRS used to have a map of installers, but it's not available anymore. When I go to 'find a pro' it takes me to the contact us page.

[Lorenzo]

Are your headlights from ZKW?

If it's burnt bowls the options are:
-replace headlights with AL headlights
-replace bowls with clemsone46 bowls (see http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19695-Replaced-ZKW-burnt-bowls-today for review)
-retrofit the headlights using a kit such as https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/application-specific/morimoto-retroquik-bmw-e46-zkw-repair.html

Thanks for the info. How do I know if I have ZKW? My car is 2004 330 ZHP sedan with option 522 Xenon headlights.


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[704sw]

Rubber sound dampening material under coupe rear bench: how important is it? Is there something I should replace it with instead (e.g., Dynomat, etc.)?
I pulled the backseat and that rubber is completely shot--pretty sure a mild sneeze would destroy the remaining pieces...

[Vas]

Rubber sound dampening material under coupe rear bench: how important is it? Is there something I should replace it with instead (e.g., Dynomat, etc.)?
I pulled the backseat and that rubber is completely shot--pretty sure a mild sneeze would destroy the remaining pieces...
Seems like everyone just removes it and leaves it out.

[704sw]

Seems like everyone just removes it and leaves it out.
Thanks, Vas. The mobile search wasn't yielding anything useful. It was absolutely disgusting under there :eeps

[anandoc]

Thanks, Vas. The mobile search wasn't yielding anything useful. It was absolutely disgusting under there :eeps

You could clean out that shitty rubber dampening and install dynamat there. There is a DIY out here which shows you all the places in the interior where dynamat can help cull NVH.

[John in VA]

Thanks for the info. How do I know if I have ZKW? My car is 2004 330 ZHP sedan with option 522 Xenon headlights.

Have you checked the Lighting forum? http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?53-Lighting

I'm new to the forum, and barely have the right to comment, and certainly shouldn't complain, but as informative as this thread is, and I read it daily, why can't the questions be asked in the most appropriate technical forum section? This is a more technical thread vs. the "What did you do to your..." one. I find myself saving individual responses in my own bookmarks, and a good Search tool will, eventually, help me find other tidbits. Just a question - thanks for your consideration!

[Vas]

Thanks for the info. How do I know if I have ZKW? My car is 2004 330 ZHP sedan with option 522 Xenon headlights.


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Is there a zkw stamp on the lens?

Also what does the label on top of the headlight say?

If the bowls are burnt, remove the back cover and the light bulb and look inside. If it is burnt, you will notice the bowl to be not chrome

[ZHPizza]

Rubber sound dampening material under coupe rear bench: how important is it? Is there something I should replace it with instead (e.g., Dynomat, etc.)?
I pulled the backseat and that rubber is completely shot--pretty sure a mild sneeze would destroy the remaining pieces...
I have a roll of dynamat in the garage if you want to throw some in there.

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[az3579]

Thanks for the info. How do I know if I have ZKW? My car is 2004 330 ZHP sedan with option 522 Xenon headlights.


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All ZHP sedans that have Xenon came with ZKW's from the factory. The question isn't whether it's ZKW, the question is if a previous owner has replaced them yet. By the sound of it, they have not. As others have said, the surefire way to tell is by removing the bulb cover from the back of the headlight as though you were going to change your bulb and look at the projector bowl. If you see burn marks, you have ZKWs that need to be replaced.

If you plan on keeping your car for a long time (several years), I advise you to replace them with something entirely different, not another set of ZKWs, otherwise it will happen again.

[NYRhockey]

Found a dent on the A-pillar (right side). Given its location, are these PDR-able? luckily paint did not chip

29443

[Sockethead]

Never know until you ask. They can do some pretty amazing things if they're good..,

[704sw]

Found a dent on the A-pillar (right side). Given its location, are these PDR-able? luckily paint did not chip

29443

They'll probably have to use the "drill and grommet" method, but a good PDR guy/girl should be able to take care of that.

[BMWCurves]

You could clean out that shitty rubber dampening and install dynamat there. There is a DIY out here which shows you all the places in the interior where dynamat can help cull NVH.

When I replaced my interior I went through the front doors and installed some sound deadening material. I was planning on doing some in the rear seats/door cards but there was already factory sound deadening material. Surprisingly my rear bench factory sound deadening hadn't crumbled like other people's, but had it been gross and brittle, I'd have cleaned it out like anandoc said and installed some of my own sound deadening material.

[ELCID86]

I have a roll of dynamat in the garage if you want to throw some in there.

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That's what I did.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170319/7f39bd9581032c7e844c5ba3bc84634b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170319/59c3a9e510e74e07a10946799e990dff.jpg

[704sw]

When I replaced my interior I went through the front doors and installed some sound deadening material. I was planning on doing some in the rear seats/door cards but there was already factory sound deadening material. Surprisingly my rear bench factory sound deadening hadn't crumbled like other people's, but had it been gross and brittle, I'd have cleaned it out like anandoc said and installed some of my own sound deadening material.

I actually found your post about the interior swap this morning. Yours was in remarkable condition! Mine is being removed by shop-vac...

[BMWCurves]

I actually found your post about the interior swap this morning. Yours was in remarkable condition! Mine is being removed by shop-vac...

Haha well I'm sure the replacement sound deadening will be more effective than the crumbly crayon-smelling stuff from the factory. I actually need to finish the last sections of that DIY guide...ugh

[johnrando]

Have you checked the Lighting forum? http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?53-Lighting

I'm new to the forum, and barely have the right to comment, and certainly shouldn't complain, but as informative as this thread is, and I read it daily, why can't the questions be asked in the most appropriate technical forum section? This is a more technical thread vs. the "What did you do to your..." one. I find myself saving individual responses in my own bookmarks, and a good Search tool will, eventually, help me find other tidbits. Just a question - thanks for your consideration!
I was thinking the same thing. Let's try to use the appropriate threads for specific questions. That way, we'll have a repository of information in one place. For example, put the lighting question in our lighting thread (not picking on anyone, just an example). Let's keep this thread for the odd one-off type questions.

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[TheFinanceGuy]

Rubber sound dampening material under coupe rear bench: how important is it? Is there something I should replace it with instead (e.g., Dynomat, etc.)?
I pulled the backseat and that rubber is completely shot--pretty sure a mild sneeze would destroy the remaining pieces...

I pulled mine out and left it out. I honestly don't notice a bit of difference without it.


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[NYRhockey]

They'll probably have to use the "drill and grommet" method, but a good PDR guy/girl should be able to take care of that.

Ok cool, wasn't sure since it's a tricky location but glad to hear it should be able to get PDR'ed.

[704sw]

Ok cool, wasn't sure since it's a tricky location but glad to hear it should be able to get PDR'ed.

I'm sure there are some PDR people who will say they can't. Honestly I'd call a higher end dealer nearby (someone like Porsche comes to mind) and ask who they use. They're not going to tell some guy who dropped $150k on a 911 "sorry bud, you're just going to have to live with a dented A pillar."

[Prestovie]

Anyone replace their rear control arm bushing before? Either that or fix a leaky Vanos tube? Dealership is trying to get me to schedule an appointment to fix them after I just forked out almost $4k to get my clutch replaced. Not in the financial situation to just bring it back over again lol


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[John in VA]

Anyone replace their rear control arm bushing before? Either that or fix a leaky Vanos tube?

Numerous threads in the Suspension section re: rear trailing arm bushing replacement. Some members here even have the tool for rent.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2530133

The VANOS oil pipe (hose) is ~$40-50 from the dealer (i didn't want to go with an off-brand here), and you should purchase 4 new washers. Not hard to do if you have smaller hands - just takes a bit of time.

[Vas]

Lemforder Brand z4m trailing bushings are $20 each from fcp euro.

Just need the tool and it is not a difficult diy.

Same goes for the Vanos Oil Line

[Sockethead]

Do the Vanos line now, that's critical. Do the bushings when you can afford it

[BMWCurves]

How often should you change oil, time-wise? When I return home the car will have only had about 1,000 miles on the oil but I changed it early last June. I have my own oil change interval set at a year in my maintenance spreadsheet, but that was sort of arbitrary since I assumed I'd be come close to the 5k mileage marker every year anyways.

[Vas]

How often should you change oil, time-wise? When I return home the car will have only had about 1,000 miles on the oil but I changed it early last June. I have my own oil change interval set at a year in my maintenance spreadsheet, but that was sort of arbitrary since I assumed I'd be come close to the 5k mileage marker every year anyways.

Synthetic oil used l assume?

Long drain intervals are not terrible especially if the oil carries the correct approval rating for the vehicle. But personally I would drain it and fill new oil.

[BMWCurves]

Synthetic oil used l assume?

Long drain intervals are not terrible especially if the oil carries the correct approval rating for the vehicle. But personally I would drain it and fill new oil.

Yes, there's currently synthetic oil in there (Mobil1 0W-40). I plan to replace it but wasn't sure if there was a general rule for age intervals in oil changes.

[Vas]

Yes, there's currently synthetic oil in there (Mobil1 0W-40). I plan to replace it but wasn't sure if there was a general rule for age intervals in oil changes.

Gotcha.

Mobil 1 has a recommendation which IIRC is 15k or one year, whichever occurs first. This is for the Synthetic oil

[Prestovie]

Oh that's great to hear about the prices, I'm literally broke right now so waiting on next paycheck to fix that Vanos leak. I'm going to be gone for the next week on spring break so it can wait until after that


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[bimmergofast]

Sigh.. lost count of how many of these I've had to replace. Usually they just crack though, never seen one blown out this bad. Any ideas for reinforcing the fogs? Do the laminates really offer any protection?


#dailydriverlife

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/ea2a3bafd00feebc70d50c141d826253.jpg

[704sw]

Sigh.. lost count of how many of these I've had to replace. Usually they just crack though, never seen one blown out this bad. Any ideas for reinforcing the fogs? Do the laminates really offer any protection?


#dailydriverlife

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170323/ea2a3bafd00feebc70d50c141d826253.jpg

Damn, dude. I'm no engineer but I can't imagine the flat front of the lens helps.

Laminates would give a slight buffer, and would at least hold everything together in the event of another break.

[Prestovie]

Yikes wasn't even aware that that could happen, I'm always concerned about the trim piece falling out


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[Dual]

That's from rocks?

[stephenkirsh]

145k and I've never replaced one. Seems odd you go through so many.

[JPMo]

Yikes wasn't even aware that that could happen, I'm always concerned about the trim piece falling out


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LOL i thought I was the only one. The trim piece comes out so easily, I don't know how it stays on, on the road

[704sw]

LOL i thought I was the only one. The trim piece comes out so easily, I don't know how it stays on, on the road

You could be crazy and retrofit some different housings in like I did lol. I expect them to be very durable. Curved lenses will deflect debris nicely, and the glass is obnoxiously thick.

[Prestovie]

LOL i thought I was the only one. The trim piece comes out so easily, I don't know how it stays on, on the road

I'm on my second set [emoji23]


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[bimmergofast]

145k and I've never replaced one. Seems odd you go through so many.

Fair amount of interstate driving. 81 can be killer.

[Dave1027]

I had one fog lens get cracked from a rock I guess. I bought a new lens on ebay and replaced it. Cost was about $15.

[ELCID86]

^i did that too.

[Dual]

I need info on the strips which run for-and-aft on the roof for mounting ski racks, Google cams, etc. One of mine just got blown completely off in a carwash.

What terms would I enter to search on this subject, please? I thought of "rail" but that's not working.

[BMWCurves]

I need info on the strips which run for-and-aft on the roof for mounting ski racks, Google cams, etc. One of mine just got blown completely off in a carwash.

What terms would I enter to search on this subject, please? I thought of "rail" but that's not working.

"Roof moulding" is what you're looking for. I don't think you can get just the flap/cover on its own, I think you have to get the whole assembly if you're buying new. I'd find your part number via RealOEM under:

Vehicle trim > Exterior Trim / Grill

I think you have a coupe, so the part numbers are:
Right: 51138208690
Left: 51138208689

[Dual]

Thanks! What I'm trying to do is replace all the clips on my roof molding. I picked it up at the carwash today, two days after the carwash stole it, and it seems to be in great shape (one tiny chip: that's it).

But I remember it being a bit less than tight on the car beforehand. With 'roof molding' in hand I can REALOEM or whatever.

Thanks again.

[roadbiker_2]

I had one fog lens get cracked from a rock I guess. I bought a new lens on ebay and replaced it. Cost was about $15.

Dave, can you post a link to the lens you bought?


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[John in VA]

Dave, can you post a link to the lens you bought?

I'm curious as well. It would be great to put this info in a thread in the Lighting forum vs. searching through the 410 pages of this one. Lighting forum:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?53-Lighting

A member started a thread there on 3/14 asking about fog light part numbers - could save him some $$ and trouble:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19839-Fog-light-part-for-05-ZHP-Coupe

[704sw]

Question: is there any reason to believe a rear view mirror from a RHD car is any different than one from a LHD car? I know side mirrors are different between the two. I found a great deal on a Z4M mirror (please nobody steal it!) but it's from a RHD model.

[Sockethead]

Not sure but if it has homelink buttons on it perhaps they would be on the opposite side?

[TheFinanceGuy]

What's a good battery charger? Looking to install the shark this weekend, but I need a battery charger.

Looking at this:
https://www.amazon.com/Potek-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-50-Amp/dp/B01KF7SLJO/ref=pd_sbs_263_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KF7SLJO&pd_rd_r=1XPCH6KFR7NXQ1EPR631&pd_rd_w=clQm9&pd_rd_wg=1Qtyp&psc=1&refRID=1XPCH6KFR7NXQ1EPR631

[704sw]

Not sure but if it has homelink buttons on it perhaps they would be on the opposite side?

No Homelink, just the cool inverted trapezoid (which I think is a neat alternative to the M3/M5 oval). https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/b7e0ff4762363a71b2adec193ada3b8c.jpg

[rguti153]

No Homelink, just the cool inverted trapezoid (which I think is a neat alternative to the M3/M5 oval). https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170329/b7e0ff4762363a71b2adec193ada3b8c.jpg
I like that mirror

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[John in VA]

What's a good battery charger? Looking to install the shark this weekend, but I need a battery charger. Looking at this:
https://www.amazon.com/Potek-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-50-Amp/dp/B01KF7SLJO/ref=pd_sbs_263_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KF7SLJO&pd_rd_r=1XPCH6KFR7NXQ1EPR631&pd_rd_w=clQm9&pd_rd_wg=1Qtyp&psc=1&refRID=1XPCH6KFR7NXQ1EPR631

From the Maintenance Section, a battery charger thread: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?14962-Battery-Chargers&highlight=ctek

[TheFinanceGuy]

From the Maintenance Section, a battery charger thread: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?14962-Battery-Chargers&highlight=ctek

Thank you! I searched, but didn't yield any good hits. This is exactly what I was looking for.


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[Sockethead]

For the software install, it's best to have a charger that will at least put out a couple of amps. I have two chargers: one for trickle/maintain (BMW branded) and one from harbor freight that puts out a max 6 amps that I use for software updates.

If you just have a trickle charger you can always do the DME read then charge back up and do the write to the DME. I know with my tunes from ESS, the read takes much longer that the write.
Some people just fully charge and do both at the same time but I like to play it safe

[TheFinanceGuy]

For the software install, it's best to have a charger that will at least put out a couple of amps. I have two chargers: one for trickle/maintain (BMW branded) and one from harbor freight that puts out a max 6 amps that I use for software updates.

If you just have a trickle charger you can always do the DME read then charge back up and do the write to the DME. I know with my tunes from ESS, the read takes much longer that the write.
Some people just fully charge and do both at the same time but I like to play it safe

Thank you for the tip. I'd prefer to play it safe. I'll snag a good charger, always a good tool to have in the garage anyway. I get nervous messing with the software of the car.

[BMWCurves]

Thank you for the tip. I'd prefer to play it safe. I'll snag a good charger, always a good tool to have in the garage anyway. I get nervous messing with the software of the car.

Let me know what you end up with. I'm contemplating taking off my Shark Injector if I ever get around to sending an M3 cluster and my DME to Terra to have it coded, and then reinstalling it afterwards.

[Sockethead]

He can code it with the shark still on the DME if you want to keep the tune. What he needs to code is out of the range of the tune.

[BMWCurves]

Ah okay. When I asked him a couple of months ago he suggested I remove the shark tune before sending it to him.

[Sockethead]

He was able to do mine with my Dinan tune still the DME but ultimately he's the one that will know. IDK how much of the DME the shark tunes overwrites but there is a good chance that if you reinstall the tune after he modifies it, it will overwrite what he did

[BMWCurves]

He was able to do mine with my Dinan tune still the DME but ultimately he's the one that will know. IDK how much of the DME the shark tunes overwrites but there is a good chance that if you reinstall the tune after he modifies it, it will overwrite what he did

Gotcha. I'll just ask him again whenever I get around to taking the plunge. I'm (blindly) holding out hope for someone to figure out coding on shift lights for the M3 cluster but coded for the M54...

[Sockethead]

I know he was close to figuring out how to code through the OBDII

[ELCID86]

Ok, I'm puzzled. I have a low tire and after searching the garage to find the tire air attachment (that was right where I left it so I wouldn't forget!) I can't get air into the tire. Tire has about 28lbs in it. I tried a bike tire and it fills fine. The compressor is on and fill line is wide open. I've disconnected and reconnected both ends. Any ideas??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/8e2213625ff75aa15802d22f6a6fea30.jpg

[ELCID86]

Ok, I'm puzzled. I have a low tire and after searching the garage to find the tire air attachment (that was right where I left it so I wouldn't forget!) I can't get air into the tire. Tire has about 28lbs in it. I tried a bike tire and it fills fine. The compressor is on and fill line is wide open. I've disconnected and reconnected both ends. Any ideas??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/8e2213625ff75aa15802d22f6a6fea30.jpg

Never mind. It's now working. I didn't change anything other than cutting pressure to the line and going to do some yard work... weird. Maybe it was the honey do list...

[Prestovie]

Hey guys so my rear brake pads are pretty low, like 3mm, but the fronts still have 10mm. So I want to go about replacing the rears but I'm wondering if I should go with the same that I did before? They're like hawk racing street pads that are loud as hell and have a ton of dust, so my question is if it would be reasonable to put Akebono on the back? Penny for your thought


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[John in VA]

so my question is if it would be reasonable to put Akebono on the back?
Why not? Except for the fact that they don't have very good initial bite, minimal dust is nice, and the front brakes do most of the braking. Here are 2 threads from the Maintenance section searching using "brake pads":

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1907-Brake-Pads-amp-Rotors&highlight=brake+pads

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4346-Recommended-brake-replacement&highlight=brake+pads

[danewilson77]

Never mind. It's now working. I didn't change anything other than cutting pressure to the line and going to do some yard work... weird. Maybe it was the honey do list...
Sometimes the tire valves are finicky.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S8

[Prestovie]

Why not? Except for the fact that they don't have very good initial bite, minimal dust is nice, and the front brakes do most of the braking.

Alright that's good to hear, got a new clutch with an entirely new feel so may as well switch the brakes up too [emoji23]



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[BCS_ZHP]

Or sometimes operator error is an after affect of beer consumption which is a natural reaction to yard work. Come on Shawn, fess up?!?!

[ELCID86]

Or sometimes operator error is an after affect of beer consumption which is a natural reaction to yard work. Come on Shawn, fess up?!?!

Who me? :-0

Thanks Dane.

[danewilson77]

Who me? :-0

Thanks Dane.



Or sometimes operator error is an after affect of beer consumption which is a natural reaction to yard work. Come on Shawn, fess up?!?!

Maybe I'm always drinking beer :dunno

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[704sw]

Anyone have a vert rear view mirror in a coupe/sedan? The vert has the central locking antenna in the mirror, and I don't cook my new Z4 mirror. Basically: do I need to move pins around?

I've searched to no avail. If it makes any difference, my E9x homelink/compass mirror was 100% plug and play.

[BMWCurves]

What brand thermostat do you guys use? I think I have Wahler in my sister's car, but I can't remember what I have in mine and I'm planning to help my dad with his cooling system refresh in June.

[az3579]

What brand thermostat do you guys use? I think I have Wahler in my sister's car, but I can't remember what I have in mine and I'm planning to help my dad with his cooling system refresh in June.
Wahler is the one to go with.

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[BMWCurves]

Wahler is the one to go with.

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Perfect, thank you!

[BMWCurves]

And now I forgot, people's preferences on water pump manufacturer? I have Graf in mine I believe (can't really remember, honestly), and BMW in my sister's.

[san]

And now I forgot, people's preferences on water pump manufacturer? I have Graf in mine I believe (can't really remember, honestly), and BMW in my sister's.

I went with OEM BMW, some people buy the Stewart high performance one. Not sure about any others though.


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[Sockethead]

I want OEM too. 2 year warranty and they last much longer than that.
Of course if you go FCP euro no matter what you get it will be a lifetime warranty

[John in VA]

And now I forgot, people's preferences on water pump manufacturer? I have Graf in mine I believe (can't really remember, honestly), and BMW in my sister's.

I thought Saleri was the OEM for many E46 pumps.

[Prestovie]

Alright guys, back with another dilemma... think I broke my sunroof[emoji22] usually the cover on the inside of the car is pretty sticky and I have to force it back behind my head, so today when I went to do it I anticipated the stickiness and all of a sudden I push it back and it just glides back back back into the roof... so I'm like "oh shit" and start messing with the sunroof buttons, clicked it around(now that I think about it should've clicked it up and or not messed with it) and the roof went back about halfway then stopped. Tried clicking it forward, went an inch then stopped. Drove around with my roof open for awhile(shop is closed today) and then tried it again after trying to shift it around. This time it went forward a couple inches but then made the most awful grinding noise. Read up that it was all of the clips just snapping, so THAT'S AWESOME.
Anyone else ever experience this problem? Had to clear out the garage just to park the car so it doesn't get crap in it overnight, won't be able to drive tomorrow because it's supposed to rain.
Taking it to the dealership tomorrow, want to know what I should expect they'll charge me and how long it'll take.


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[Sockethead]

They will charge you a boat-load to fix that. There are a bunch of people that have fixed issues with them. I'm sure they will chime in soon enough... I think Dane and his son removed the whole cassette from the roof...
Mine hasn't broken.... yet So I can't help you other than to tell you don't let the dealer fix it.

[John in VA]

Alright guys, back with another dilemma... think I broke my sunroof... Anyone else ever experience this problem?
Multiple threads here (& at E46Fanatics) about removing the glass panel, replacing the plastic drivers, etc. Try the search function in the Maintenance and/or Mechanical | Troubleshooting forums. Good luck!

[danewilson77]

They will charge you a boat-load to fix that. There are a bunch of people that have fixed issues with them. I'm sure they will chime in soon enough... I think Dane and his son removed the whole cassette from the roof...
Mine hasn't broken.... yet So I can't help you other than to tell you don't let the dealer fix it.
Yes. We bought a used cassette and swapped out the entire unit.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S8+

[NYRhockey]

Puzzled by this:

Hadn't moved the car since last week, so it didn't see any of the rain we got all week. Today (sunny and 60 degrees) took it out and on the way home i had put a manila envelope on the floor of the front passenger seat and when i got home and picked it up the envelope was wet. I put my hand down on the floor and it was very wet and the rear passenger floor is a bit wet as well. The left side is dry. I had the a/c going on the way home (about 30min ride) so the only thing i can think of is that it's draining inside? Any ideas?

[Prestovie]

Multiple threads here (& at E46Fanatics) about removing the glass panel, replacing the plastic drivers, etc. Try the search function in the Maintenance and/or Mechanical | Troubleshooting forums. Good luck!

Ok perfect I'll see if I can find a used cassette, sounds like another week long process :/


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[Prestovie]

They will charge you a boat-load to fix that. There are a bunch of people that have fixed issues with them. I'm sure they will chime in soon enough... I think Dane and his son removed the whole cassette from the roof...
Mine hasn't broken.... yet So I can't help you other than to tell you don't let the dealer fix it.

Damn I was afraid of that, sounds like a fun fix lol


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[fredo]

I have a similar issue on the wife's X3. I mentioned this to my Indy, and he stated the vapor barrier was the suspect. He didn't fix it, since he quoted $300 for parts and labor. Apparently it's an easy DIY. There's a chance all that is needed is some glue.


Puzzled by this:

Hadn't moved the car since last week, so it didn't see any of the rain we got all week. Today (sunny and 60 degrees) took it out and on the way home i had put a manila envelope on the floor of the front passenger seat and when i got home and picked it up the envelope was wet. I put my hand down on the floor and it was very wet and the rear passenger floor is a bit wet as well. The left side is dry. I had the a/c going on the way home (about 30min ride) so the only thing i can think of is that it's draining inside? Any ideas?

[fredo]

Prestovie, the clips broke on my e46 some years ago. I got the parts at the dealer and asked my PDR guy to install them. I can't remember the price, but it was cheap. Another option could be a body shop. Don't go to dealer for this.

[704sw]

I have a similar issue on the wife's X3. I mentioned this to my Indy, and he stated the vapor barrier was the suspect. He didn't fix it, since he quoted $300 for parts and labor. Apparently it's an easy DIY. There's a chance all that is needed is some glue.

Wet driver floorboard in my X3 was the vapor barrier. Wet passenger floorboard in my X3 was the sunroof drains.

These are always my first two thoughts now.

[az3579]

The sunroof thing just sounds like broken clips for the shade. It's an easy fix, just requires a second person to get the glass off carefully. The clips are super cheap too.

[Dual]

What area does the vapor barrier cover? Which side of the firewall is it located on? Thanks: just seeking learning....

[az3579]

What area does the vapor barrier cover? Which side of the firewall is it located on? Thanks: just seeking learning....

It's behind the door card. When you remove the panel, you'll see a foamy material barrier that prevents water from getting inside the cabin. It covers the window regulator and motor.

[Dual]

Thanks!

[John in VA]

I have a similar issue on the wife's X3. I mentioned this to my Indy, and he stated the vapor barrier was the suspect. He didn't fix it, since he quoted $300 for parts and labor. Apparently it's an easy DIY. There's a chance all that is needed is some glue.

Frequently the bottom of the vapor barriers become (or are left) unattached to the door when the window regulator is replaced. This allows the water that enters the door at the window to make its way across the door sill & onto the carpet. Get a roll of butyl caulk strip & use it to reattach the foam barrier to the metal door around the perimeter. Warming the door & caulk makes for better adhesion.

Vapor barrier is # 12:
29627

Pic from ECSTuning:
29628

[ELCID86]

^and use butyl tape.

[Prestovie]

Alright well good news is I managed to fix it just now! Had a friend in the car so I told him to try to push the glass back into place while I clicked the button, and after about 5 minutes of robot noises and gunshots it finally went back into place. Obviously not a permanent fix but now I don't constantly have it open, and I figured that if it's already broken I'm paying for a new one anyway, so I can break it a little more.


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[Sockethead]

Yea mine is starting to malfunction too. I haven't opened it since last summer :)

[sillieidiot]

lol mines was working perfectly fine, and i still took it out. it took forever to sell though.

[Sockethead]

I think about doing that myself. I rarely use it... well, I don't use it at all now...

[Dual]

Is the Bilstein B8 (corrected from earlier B6) a good call for rear shock replacement? Alternatives? Any other 'while you're in there' components beyond the shock mounts (assuming no subframe work)? I think I recall someone mentioning this job as about as simple a DIY that could be undertaken, so I'm giving it some thought.

I understand this has been discussed a lot in the past: I just can't seem to master searching in this forum.

[nextelbuddy]

question on LED tail lights for sedans.

i really want LED tails and it looks like the most common popular ones online are the clear up top and red on bottom however it looks like the red clear red is the proper one to get??

is it safe to assume that regardless of which one you get, brake force may not work or the final stage 3 brake force may not work if enabled in the LCM?


trying to find some good comparison pictures of both styles to see which one wins me over because i really cant decide between the 2 styles.

[az3579]

Don't forget the third option:

OE rear RCR tail lights with LED bulbs in them. This is what I have and IMO it looks better than any aftermarket setup out there.

[nextelbuddy]

Don't forget the third option:

OE rear RCR tail lights with LED bulbs in them. This is what I have and IMO it looks better than any aftermarket setup out there.

that option sounds brighter and probably more dependable but you dont see the grid of LEDs which is the aesthetic part of what I am also looking for.

[ZHPizza]

that option sounds brighter and probably more dependable but you dont see the grid of LEDs which is the aesthetic part of what I am also looking for.

I stumbled upon a thread a while back where a guy with an e39 put led strips into his euro clears (your RCR's) and it looked great.

RCR's with grid led lighting...you could be the first...

[az3579]

I stumbled upon a thread a while back where a guy with an e39 put led strips into his euro clears (your RCR's) and it looked great.

RCR's with grid led lighting...you could be the first...
I thought about doing that... But it's too much work. :)

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[nextelbuddy]

on the LED tails, which ones come tin inner led tails as well? and do they light up with your parking lights? do they light up when you brake? or are they only used when brake force is triggered?

i want to make sure the tail lights I get have all 4 lights ON when parking/headlights are engaged. i hate when only outter tails show at night.

[nextelbuddy]

ok so after looking hard it appears that the:

- Red/Clear/Red LED tails have leds in the inner lights

- The Clear on top red bottom (M3 look) for sedans only have leds in the outer tails in all of the knock off variants as well.


I planned on getting these, they say DEPO no error BUT after looking at the pictures, they look cheap. they look like LED STRIPS with just halogen bulbs instead of what i expected which was just LED ARRAYS that light up. it looks like the only light that has an actual array is the lower inner tail light lol

are the DEPO from Khoalty like this as well? i cant find any pictures of the back of their depo lights.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-DEPO-2002-2005-BMW-E46-4D-SEDAN-RED-SMOKE-RED-LED-TAIL-LIGHT-Inner-Outer-/172389256104?hash=item2823334ba8:m:mJeLjSiP33xxQyv M_bac8pg&vxp=mtr

http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/TL_B3_E46_4D_02_RSR_4PCS_LED_E.jpg

Look at that hotspot in the middle of the turn signal

http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/TL_B3_E46_4D_02_DP_LED_RCR_4PCS_K.jpg

[Dual]

Is the Bilstein B8 (corrected from earlier B6) a good call for rear shock replacement? Alternatives? Any other 'while you're in there' components beyond the shock mounts (assuming no subframe work)? I think I recall someone mentioning this job as about as simple a DIY as could be undertaken, so I'm giving it some thought.

I understand this has been discussed a lot in the past: I just can't seem to master searching in this forum.

Reposting as a bump. Not sure if my request was inappropriate, but would greatly appreciate assistance on this.
Thanks!

[san]

Reposting as a bump. Not sure if my request was inappropriate, but would greatly appreciate assistance on this.
Thanks!

I can't answer your question about bilstein b8 since I have koni yellows but regarding "while you are in there" components, here's a good list from William-
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16182


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[ZHPizza]

Reposting as a bump. Not sure if my request was inappropriate, but would greatly appreciate assistance on this.
Thanks!

What are you looking to get out of the car? Track days? DD?

[az3579]

ok so after looking hard it appears that the:

- Red/Clear/Red LED tails have leds in the inner lights

- The Clear on top red bottom (M3 look) for sedans only have leds in the outer tails in all of the knock off variants as well.


I planned on getting these, they say DEPO no error BUT after looking at the pictures, they look cheap. they look like LED STRIPS with just halogen bulbs instead of what i expected which was just LED ARRAYS that light up. it looks like the only light that has an actual array is the lower inner tail light lol

are the DEPO from Khoalty like this as well? i cant find any pictures of the back of their depo lights.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-DEPO-2002-2005-BMW-E46-4D-SEDAN-RED-SMOKE-RED-LED-TAIL-LIGHT-Inner-Outer-/172389256104?hash=item2823334ba8:m:mJeLjSiP33xxQyv M_bac8pg&vxp=mtr

http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/TL_B3_E46_4D_02_RSR_4PCS_LED_E.jpg

Look at that hotspot in the middle of the turn signal

http://www.speedstersource.com/FISH/TL_B3_E46_4D_02_DP_LED_RCR_4PCS_K.jpg
I have experience with the Depo RCR LED tails. Here's my perspective:

The brake and running lights are LED. The turn signal is NOT. That is why you see that hotspot; that's an incandescent bulb. The reverse lights also aren't LED.

I think the lighting of the trunk light is cheap looking. They didn't try to arrange the LEDs to "flow" with the shape of the light, so you get that cheap square cluster of LEDs.

Here's the deal breaker for me and is why I got rid of them. When you step on the brakes, the third brake light in the rear windshield comes on a split second before the taillights. So, the tails have a lag between pressing the brake and actual illumination.



The pre-facelift style light seems to work for the most part, but there have been numerous stories of LEDs dying prematurely on them. Also, it's pre-facelift style, not RCR, so you'd have to get over that as well.

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[nextelbuddy]

right but look at the first picture of the back of the housing.. it looks like there are bulbs in all of the sections. I assume there should only be bulbs in the turn signal and reverse section only and the other sections should have electronic array boards inside the housing.

did yours have bulb holders attached to each section like that?

[az3579]

right but look at the first picture of the back of the housing.. it looks like there are bulbs in all of the sections. I assume there should only be bulbs in the turn signal and reverse section only and the other sections should have electronic array boards inside the housing.

did yours have bulb holders attached to each section like that?


Mine looked exactly like that. They're not bulbs; I forgot what they are.

[Dual]

I can't answer your question about bilstein b8 since I have koni yellows but regarding "while you are in there" components, here's a good list from William-
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16182
Thanks for what is going to be a very helpful link. Love how the OP recapped the best points of the thread at the top: great!



What are you looking to get out of the car? Track days? DD?
Definitely a DD who loves to push the car hard. Thanks!

[ZHPizza]

Definitely a DD who loves to push the car hard. Thanks!

I'll never not recommend Koni FSD's for a DD. They're made of unicorn horns.

[Dual]

That's two strong votes for the Koni. If installed now only on the rears they should do fine with the stock front units, I'd assume?

Thanks to you both for your help.

ON EDIT: on sale now, with additional rebate.

[BMWCurves]

I don't think you can go wrong with Konis if you're car is a DD that you like to push often or even track from time to time. Either FSDs or Sports.

[Sockethead]

The thing that always appeals to me about the Koni yellows is the fact that you can adjust them for what you want

[downshift]

The thing that always appeals to me about the Koni yellows is the fact that you can adjust them for what you want

Are these an upgrade or more of a replacement for stock? Will there be a performance increase?

Thanks

[Sockethead]

Are these an upgrade or more of a replacement for stock? Will there be a performance increase?

Thanks

Both because... adjustable :)

[san]

That's two strong votes for the Koni. If installed now only on the rears they should do fine with the stock front units, I'd assume?

Thanks to you both for your help.

ON EDIT: on sale now, with additional rebate.

I would suggest getting all 4 at once but to answer your question, it should be ok, depending on how you adjust the stiffness...

+1 to what Rob said, I do adjust the damper stiffness on the fronts quite a bit and the difference is quite noticeable. Also keep in mind that to adjust the rears you have to remove the strut...


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[ELCID86]

I would suggest getting all 4 at once but to answer your question, it should be ok, depending on how you adjust the stiffness...

+1 to what Rob said, I do adjust the damper stiffness on the fronts quite a bit and the difference is quite noticeable. Also keep in mind that to adjust the rears you have to remove the strut...


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This. Same here.

[slater]

Also keep in mind that to adjust the rears you have to remove the strut...

unless you...

a) buy koni yellow 911 rears (top-adjustable), or;
b) buy top-adjustable koni yellow rears from ground control (which i suspect are actually 911 rears, LOL)

[BMWCurves]

unless you...

a) buy koni yellow 911 rears (top-adjustable), or;
b) buy top-adjustable koni yellow rears from ground control (which i suspect are actually 911 rears, LOL)

Do you have part numbers for the 911 rears? The Ground Control ones were quite expensive when I was looking for my suspension refresh a couple of years ago.

[Dual]

All very interesting and very helpful. I went with a full set of the FSD's: will install the fronts when they need to go in. FSD's seem not to be adjustable, amirite?

[san]

All very interesting and very helpful. I went with a full set of the FSD's: will install the fronts when they need to go in. FSD's seem not to be adjustable, amirite?

Yup, not adjustable...


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[slater]

Do you have part numbers for the 911 rears? The Ground Control ones were quite expensive when I was looking for my suspension refresh a couple of years ago.

yep, it's 82101159SPORT. roughly $208/each at ECS, but i bet RCA could get you them cheaper.

[Dual]

Thanks very much to everyone for their assistance above.

[ZHPizza]

All very interesting and very helpful. I went with a full set of the FSD's: will install the fronts when they need to go in. FSD's seem not to be adjustable, amirite?

I think you're really going to like the FSD's. I haven't yet installed them on a ZHP, but have them on another car and they completely transformed both the ride comfort and cornering stability. This discussion confirmed for me that they'll deliver similar results in this car:

http://www.bimmerfest.com//forums/showthread.php?t=135049&page=3

Nothing against the adjustables at all, though. I like FSD's for my driving because my commute is riddled with both railroads and twisties and the shocks are well tuned for both without me having to pull over and make adjustments between obstacles.

[Dual]

Trust me: I've had adjustables before and just set them a notch harder than the middle and went on my way. Even that was more attention than I wanted to pay to the matter. I'm going to enjoy the FSD's.

[ZHPizza]

Trust me: I've had adjustables before and just set them a notch harder than the middle and went on my way. Even that was more attention than I wanted to pay to the matter. I'm going to enjoy the FSD's.

+1

http://i.imgur.com/ZK9vQtt.png

[BMWCurves]

What are the part numbers for our front control arms? The standard part numbers seem to be 31122282121/31122282122 but those seem to be superseded by 31122341297/31122341828?

Then there's a BMW kit that has both, part no. 31120429578.

[anandoc]

What are the part numbers for our front control arms? The standard part numbers seem to be 31122282121/31122282122 but those seem to be superseded by 31122341297/31122341828?

Then there's a BMW kit that has both, part no. 31120429578.

Seems like you are right. 31122282121/31122282122 (BMW branded ones) have been superseded by 31122341297/31122341298. I see ECS Tuning's website confirming that:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/zhp-lower-control-arm-left/31122341297/

However, the Lemforder branded parts still carry the old part numbers:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/zhp-lower-control-arm-left/31122341297/

Maybe call FCP Euro or ECS Tuning and confirm. It is possible that they might not have updated the website.

[Sockethead]

I got the Lemforder versions of the ZHP LCA and LCAB as a kit from FCP Euro...

[bandwagn]

Any way to swap bases on the mirrors - my passenger mirror broke and looking to see if I can keep the gloss black trim.

JB Weld has failed.

29743

[John in VA]

Get a mirror from a member parting out a car here on the forum & swap over your painted backing if the used one isn't the correct color.

[YoitsTmac]

I hate to be THAT guy, but I must ask as I play around with the idea.

I'm quietly shopping and saving for a new E46. My requirements are that it is steel gray facelift coupe with M54 (M56 is a concern in CA). Naturally, this gives me some ZHP's. In a perfect world, I would love to have 6-speed as my signature suggests, but these typically seem to be ZHP's, and ZHP's seem to be remarkably inflated. I've seen one with 150k miles for $7.5k, one with 99k for 6k, and some well north of $15k. It just goes all over the place. Do you guys have a buyers guide or a suggested "don't pay over xx" for a ZHP? thanks :)

[BMWCurves]

I hate to be THAT guy, but I must ask as I play around with the idea.

I'm quietly shopping and saving for a new E46. My requirements are that it is steel gray facelift coupe with M54 (M56 is a concern in CA). Naturally, this gives me some ZHP's. In a perfect world, I would love to have 6-speed as my signature suggests, but these typically seem to be ZHP's, and ZHP's seem to be remarkably inflated. I've seen one with 150k miles for $7.5k, one with 99k for 6k, and some well north of $15k. It just goes all over the place. Do you guys have a buyers guide or a suggested "don't pay over xx" for a ZHP? thanks :)

Here's a graph on what members have paid vs mileage for their ZHPs in the last three years. This is a very rough estimate and doesn't account for coupe vs. sedan, manual vs automatic, number of previous owners, condition, etc:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FUWpdcPerF3UNTwj5AQoMDn-1MTfdhRaylJr7lGTmtw/pubchart?oid=289040793&format=interactive

A spreadsheet of all the data can be found here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FUWpdcPerF3UNTwj5AQoMDn-1MTfdhRaylJr7lGTmtw/edit

I'd say that yes, ZHP prices are highly variable. Manual sedans will normally command the highest price since they're the closest BMW came to selling a factory E46 M3 sedan and is what enthusiasts are most often after. Personally I have found that convertibles have the lowest average miles (they were most likely a second car meant more for pleasure drives than daily duty) and tend to have a higher price (both from the mileage and they had the highest base MSRP of the three body styles), but I believe they are often inflated as I would think the convertible appeals to a much smaller group of people. Coupes are somewhere in the middle.

Furthermore, low mileage examples are becoming increasingly rare. They are now 11+ years old minimum for coupes and verts, 12+ for sedans. That's pretty old for a car that many people daily drove. If owners only drove 5k miles/year, that's 55k miles, and most people drove much more than that. That increasing rarity of low mileage examples are raising selling prices, while the number of ZHPs entering 100k+ miles are increasing and I think their prices are falling or at least flattening out for that reason. I personally don't think the price premium is worth the low miles. I bought my one owner coupe (really a two owner but the second owner only kept it for two weeks) two years ago with 49k miles and a manual transmission for $14k. At the time I thought it was still high but I'd been searching for ages and this one had everything I wanted short of four doors which I haven't really needed. Despite the low mileage, I basically did all the preventative maintenance I would have done on a car with twice the mileage because the car was nine years old when I bought it (plastic becomes brittle and rubber dries out). So I paid a several grand premium for a car that would most likely be just as mechanically sound as a car with much more mileage because I would have done a similar amount of maintenance. That said, I don't regret my decision in the slightest. But it's all up to priorities. If I had to do it again, I would widen my search for cars under 125k miles in good condition with good maintenance history and use the saved money for maintenance.

[YoitsTmac]

Thanks for the thorough and in-depth reply, I truly do appreciate it. It looks like I might not be ready for a ZHP quite yet....I'll have to see how this year plays out.
I have noticed there's a plethora of convertibles. I guess when I have the funds, I'll just be checking every week for when the right one comes on the market!

[az3579]

You sure you got the color right? There are no factory steel grey ZHPs that I'm aware of. (And no, Stiggisimo's car doesn't count - that is a converted car :) )

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[YoitsTmac]

You sure you got the color right? There are no factory steel grey ZHPs that I'm aware of. (And no, Stiggisimo's car doesn't count - that is a converted car :) )

Yes I am! https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/6096812782.html
^^that's one I was looking at. Body looks pristine. That's all I want - a good facelift steel gray coupe. I don't care what M54 is under it, be B30, B25 or ZHP. M54's are a dime a dozen for when you blow one or want more power

[704sw]

Yes I am! https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/6096812782.html
^^that's one I was looking at. Body looks pristine. That's all I want - a good facelift steel gray coupe. I don't care what M54 is under it, be B30, B25 or ZHP. M54's are a dime a dozen for when you blow one or want more power

Am I missing something? The coupe in that link is Silbergrau...

[John in VA]

Yes I am! https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/6096812782.html
^^that's one I was looking at. Body looks pristine. That's all I want - a good facelift steel gray coupe.

Both the CL ad & VIN decoder state it is Silver Gray. Good luck with your search!

2004 BMW 330CI ZHP M-Sport 6-Speed Manual
VIN: WBABD534X4PD97495
Mileage: 153,260
Exterior: Silver Gray Metallic
Interior:Black Leather
Engine: 6-Cyl
------------
Vehicle information
VIN WBABD534X4PD97495
Type code BD53
Type 330CI (USA)
E series E46 (2FL)
Series 3
Type COUPE
Steering LL
Doors 2
Engine M54
Displacement 3.00
Power 170
Drive HECK
Transmission MECH
Colour SILBERGRAU METALLIC (A08)
Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW)
Prod.date 2004-03-08

[YoitsTmac]

I can't find the color sheet...can someone give me a link to the color sheets or a comparison between the two colors? My virgin eyes can't tell the difference

[BMWCurves]

Steel Gray Metallic color code: 400
Silver Gray Metallic color code: A08

[YoitsTmac]

It seems that the steel gray is darker...Shoot. I think I'd have to see the two side by side. The steel gray looks nicer in my opinion and it's not available for facelift? Decisions decisions...
edit: BMWCurves: I got the color codes, just didn't see the difference. Threw them in Google and found that 400 is darker that A08

[704sw]

It seems that the steel gray is darker...Shoot. I think I'd have to see the two side by side. The steel gray looks nicer in my opinion and it's not available for facelift? Decisions decisions...
edit: BMWCurves: I got the color codes, just didn't see the difference. Threw them in Google and found that 400 is darker that A08

I really like Steel Grey on the coupe. My neighbor has a 325ci with Mtech bumpers and it's a damn good looking car. Just my opinion but I think Silver Grey looks best with the sedan's black trim and RCR tails.

[YoitsTmac]

I really like Steel Grey on the coupe. My neighbor has a 325ci with Mtech bumpers and it's a damn good looking car. Just my opinion but I think Silver Grey looks best with the sedan's black trim and RCR tails.

My buddy has a Silberblau ZHP with RCR, looks fantastic. Has a 3.38 diff and is fast no doubt.

I now think I'll be looking for a preface steel gray. I like the color that much more. I think the preface looks just as good as facelift. Facelift just makes the car look more modern in my opinion, which I don't care about. Prefaces come significantly cheaper and in much higher quantity. As you said, some Mtech bumpers and bam!

PS:704sw, my buddy and I were both planning on painting our cars Estoril Blue! I just want a gray... but he's still planning on painting his! You should check out Audi's Ava Blue. You can find a pic of one at my local dealer on my IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/BS0DNc0Ay7J/?taken-by=drivingfm

[ELCID86]

And don't get me started on Silver Grey Metalic.

[Prestovie]

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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[holyc0w]

Did you try again after it stopped?

I've had it stop early before, but rarely.

[san]

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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Happened to me this past Sunday, had to adjust the nozzle and it was all good...


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[Prestovie]

Happened to me this past Sunday, had to adjust the nozzle and it was all good...


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Ah alright good to know it's not the car, thanks


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[stephenkirsh]

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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This happened on my 325 M56 ALL the time. It was so annoying. Never had any other issues.

I've never experienced this on my zhp. Yet.

[ZHPizza]

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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Usually need to pull the nozzle out an inch or so and then it'll flow fine

[iya_e46]

Just my opinion but I think Silver Grey looks best with the sedan's black trim and RCR tails.

My Car's Twin: Owner @Dus_ (@punyemas_autosport)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy208/iya818pque/E46/LVKJWvk.jpg (http://s792.photobucket.com/user/iya818pque/media/E46/LVKJWvk.jpg.html)


http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy208/iya818pque/E46/eT6U6iL.jpg (http://s792.photobucket.com/user/iya818pque/media/E46/eT6U6iL.jpg.html)

[danewilson77]

My Car's Twin: Owner @Dus_ (@punyemas_autosport)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy208/iya818pque/E46/LVKJWvk.jpg (http://s792.photobucket.com/user/iya818pque/media/E46/LVKJWvk.jpg.html)


http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy208/iya818pque/E46/eT6U6iL.jpg (http://s792.photobucket.com/user/iya818pque/media/E46/eT6U6iL.jpg.html)
Reminds me of Eli's (mimalmo) car. Where has he been?

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[stephenkirsh]

Usually need to pull the nozzle out an inch or so and then it'll flow fine

Not so sure about this... my 325 had this happen all the time at different pumps. Something somewhere wore out.

It was my dad's car, first owner. He never experienced. By the time the car got to me, it did it a lot. I only had it two years. Never figured out what or why. I always figured it was related to the SULEV system.

[anandoc]

For those of you that have gotten their brake lines replaced recently (both front and rear) with stainless steel ones how much labor were you charged by your indy? My mechanic wants to charge me around 4 hours of labor. It seemed a little high so I wanted to check. Thanks!

[az3579]

For those of you that have gotten their brake lines replaced recently (both front and rear) with stainless steel ones how much labor were you charged by your indy? My mechanic wants to charge me around 4 hours of labor. It seemed a little high so I wanted to check. Thanks!


That is VERY excessive. All the lines (if you know what you're doing) can be done in less than an hour if you're moving quickly. Bleeding is done while you replace them, so that doesn't tack on much time.

I would say they shouldn't be charging you more than 2 hours, but they're probably going by "book time". Ugh.

[anandoc]

That is VERY excessive. All the lines (if you know what you're doing) can be done in less than an hour if you're moving quickly. Bleeding is done while you replace them, so that doesn't tack on much time.

I would say they shouldn't be charging you more than 2 hours, but they're probably going by "book time". Ugh.

Thanks BP. I know they are charging me 'book time' :(

We need to have a US North-East + Canada maintenance day!

[stephenkirsh]

I've never done that before and I'm pretty sure I could do it in 3 hours or less...

[cakM3]

4 hrs just to change brake lines seems excesssive, especially when you have access to a lift.


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[anandoc]

4 hrs just to change brake lines seems excesssive, especially when you have access to a lift.


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Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

[az3579]

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

That's what "phoning a friend" is for. :)
Got anyone that lives close enough to you?

[anandoc]

That's what "phoning a friend" is for. :)
Got anyone that lives close enough to you?

Wanna drive up to Toronto? ;) I can provide free lodging, food and beer :)

[az3579]

Wanna drive up to Toronto? ;) I can provide free lodging, food and beer :)

I'll be at Calabogie again this year... perhaps I can take an extra 1 or 2 vacation days and head over after if you're willing to wait 'till July. Unfortunately, this doesn't solve your "workspace" issue. lol

[anandoc]

I'll be at Calabogie again this year... perhaps I can take an extra 1 or 2 vacation days and head over after if you're willing to wait 'till July. Unfortunately, this doesn't solve your "workspace" issue. lol

LOL - thanks for the offer but I think I will get it done and out of the way. But you are absolutely welcome to come down to Toronto! What days are you coming to Calabogie?

[az3579]

LOL - thanks for the offer but I think I will get it done and out of the way. But you are absolutely welcome to come down to Toronto! What days are you coming to Calabogie?

I haven't officially registered yet, but if I register for Calabogie, I'll be there the weekend of July 15-16, with the day before and after used for travelling.
I haven't decided between Calabogie or Mont-Tremblant at this point. Tremblant is later in the month in July.

[anandoc]

I haven't officially registered yet, but if I register for Calabogie, I'll be there the weekend of July 15-16, with the day before and after used for travelling.
I haven't decided between Calabogie or Mont-Tremblant at this point. Tremblant is later in the month in July.

Cool. I will check with Slater, Kakashi169 and Ayan to see if we want to have a quick meet-up there. Drag Charlie along with you :)

[ZHPizza]

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

[slater]

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

dude, when i lived in an apartment building with underground parking, i did work on my car in my parking spot. :) i would roll my toolbox out of my apartment, down the hallway, into the elevator, and then out at garage level. :) did that for two years!

i'd be up for helping with the brakes, but scheduling is going to be hard. i'm basically full up on weekends until mid-june!



Cool. I will check with Slater, Kakashi169 and Ayan to see if we want to have a quick meet-up there. Drag Charlie along with you :)

that would be awesome, hopefully it is not the 15th as i'm away then.



I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

hey, meow that's a good idea... ;)

[anandoc]

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

LOL! That guy already has his hands full!! Besides he is helping me a lot with other stuff. Pics to follow soon. But the quickjack idea is interesting. Ayan and I were thinking along the same lines when I was in Ottawa. He wanted to install a quickjack in his garage and wanted to split the price for it. I would have unlimited access to it in exchange.


dude, when i lived in an apartment building with underground parking, i did work on my car in my parking spot. :) i would roll my toolbox out of my apartment, down the hallway, into the elevator, and then out at garage level. :) did that for two years!

i'd be up for helping with the brakes, but scheduling is going to be hard. i'm basically full up on weekends until mid-june!


Dude, you are crazy for rolling your toolbox out of the apartment into the apartment garage for working on the car! That's some serious dedication!!

My car went in for the brake stuff this morning. I begged and plead for a more "actual hours" based pricing instead of "book pricing". We'll see how it goes...

[BMWCurves]

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.

[san]

1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.

If my text books didn't teach me wrong, they would at least have a factor of safety of 1.5...


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[ZHPizza]

1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.


If my text books didn't teach me wrong, they would at least have a factor of safety of 1.5...


Yep, that's what's printed in all the ME textbooks -- and for a lifting device where failure = user death, I'd say they designed with at least 3.0 in mind.

Based on what I saw during my research of their product and from using it in my garage, this is my personal impressions for the 3500 model:

3500 lbs = rated max to maintain factor of safety

4000 lbs = no worries, I'd get under it

5000 lbs = I don't know that the hydraulics could lift it unless it was a taller vehicle so you had a good head start (the force required from the hydraulic piston is reduced as the lift extends--hardest lift would be from fully collapsed). I'd probably still get under it (with my jack stand safeties in place).

6000 lbs = I'd change the tires as long as there were safeties in place. Not getting under that, though.

10000 lbs = Still won't collapse, but sure as hell won't lift. I'm not getting under it and would prefer not to stand next to it. Y'all crazy.

Edit: What I mean when I reference my jack stand safeties. I don't get under the car without them, not because I think it's going to collapse ever, but because it takes 10 seconds and adds peace of mind.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170224/04ea08848417b2e4406573fd8c359559.jpg

[hcbeck2689]

What's the downside of running winter tires year round? I bought the 20"s with winter pirellis but it rarely snows or even gets that cold in my area. I really hate the 17s i have with minimal tread left.


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[TheFinanceGuy]

What's the downside of running winter tires year round? I bought the 20"s with winter pirellis but it rarely snows or even gets that cold in my area. I really hate the 17s i have with minimal tread left.


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Faster tread wear and decreased performance. I personally can't get my winters off fast enough.
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/driving-winter-tires-year-round

[BMWCurves]

My guess would be poor grip compared to summer/all season tires and higher tread wear rate in warmer temps.

EDIT: Patrick took the words right out of my fingertips.

[hcbeck2689]

Should I just keep them on and let them wear. I'm guessing they will still last a while and then i can replace with some nice all seasons like contidws06


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[Dual]

Cornering traction will be diminished, possibly handling/braking in rain. I wouldn't do it myself.

PS: I can't load that Bridgestone page.

[Sockethead]

We ran Blizzacks on the 135 until August one year while waiting for custom wheels to be built. It really wasn't bad at all and that car has a lot of HP

[704sw]

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

[BMWCurves]

Didn't you have spacers? Or have those been removed?

[holyc0w]

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

Those might be worth a check.

[704sw]

Didn't you have spacers? Or have those been removed?
Didn't use any on the new wheels. It's a little better than the before, but it's still there. Plus steering is a bit twitchy, but not because of the Super Sports. It'll pull a bit when braking.

Those might be worth a check.
Copy that. I didn't have enough to do today or anything [emoji854]

[YoitsTmac]

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

Let me know when you figure it out. I have a slight wobble after new pads, rotors, tie rods, CA'a, CAB's, rack, wheels and tires, also road force balanced. Maybe you're in the same boat and I can learn something too.

[ZHPizza]

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

Let me drive the car for a day. She just needs to get sideways a bit.

[Dual]

This is a photo of my aftermarket lift pad sitting on my new Harbor Freight jack. Is the pad high enough?
29875

[ZHPizza]

This is a photo of my aftermarket lift pad sitting on my new Harbor Freight jack. Is the pad high enough?
29875

That should be fine given that the plastic lift pad on the car sticks down a bit.

If you go to lift it and the metal ridge on the jack plate starts digging into the frame, then I would like to change my answer to "no."

[Dual]

Thinking of adding a round plywood spacer under the lift pad

[BlueBug]

Thinking of adding a round plywood spacer under the lift pad

Hockey pucks work great and are very strong!!

[Sockethead]

Who was it on here that cut a hockey puck into that shape... slater?

[san]

Should I just keep them on and let them wear. I'm guessing they will still last a while and then i can replace with some nice all seasons like contidws06


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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lrz14n4vVkQ

[704sw]

So I'm thinking the tie rods are needing replacement. Is there any reason to think a Febi or Lemförder is an inadequate substitute for OE? There's about a $100 and $70 difference per side, respectively.

[az3579]

So I'm thinking the tie rods are needing replacement. Is there any reason to think a Febi or Lemförder is an inadequate substitute for OE? There's about a $100 and $70 difference per side, respectively.

I'd go with the Lemförder as I believe they are the OEM for those...

[slater]

I'd go with the Lemförder as I believe they are the OEM for those...

+1, yep. got a set o' lemmy's waiting to go into the Touring when The Swap happens.

[holyc0w]

I went with Lemforder for the tie-rods and Febi for the boot kit, because the other boot prices were outrageous.

[704sw]

+1, yep. got a set o' lemmy's waiting to go into the Touring when The Swap happens.

Good deal. Looks like FCP is the place to get them. May's looking like an expensive month [emoji849]

[anandoc]

Good deal. Looks like FCP is the place to get them. May's looking like an expensive month [emoji849]

You can always get rid of that PoS Estoril coupe. Just saying ... :p

[704sw]

You can always get rid of that PoS Estoril coupe. Just saying ... :p

I remember talking to Nate a year or so ago, saying maybe I should look at this car or that car. He said to me, "f- that, son. Get yourself an old BMW and suffer properly."

[holyc0w]

I remember talking to Nate a year or so ago, saying maybe I should look at this car or that car. He said to me, "f- that, son. Get yourself an old BMW and suffer properly."

:rofl

[ZHPizza]

I remember talking to Nate a year or so ago, saying maybe I should look at this car or that car. He said to me, "f- that, son. Get yourself an old BMW and suffer properly."
Gd right

But Spenser did it the smart way -- he first baited me into buying another old BMW so my garage quickly filled with tools/parts/a freaking lift to work on these damn things