The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[stephenkirsh]

Ordered from PartsGeek.

Behr. It was about $185.

28778

28779

[anandoc]

I just did this two weeks ago. Plug and play. No coding or anything to change. Took me 15 min start to finish.

Did you get rid of the small aux fan in front of the radiator? You have to get rid of that if you are doing the electric fan mod so that there is smooth airflow to the rad...

[stephenkirsh]

I did not. Nobody mentioned that. I'm not sure why it would be different now...

[WOLFN8TR]

Did you get rid of the small aux fan in front of the radiator? You have to get rid of that if you are doing the electric fan mod so that there is smooth airflow to the rad...

The Aux fan needs to be removed when this mod. Remove the mechanical fan, install the electrical fan and plug it into where the auxiliary fan used to be and remove the auxiliary fan.

If you leave the auxiliary fan installed it just blocks airflow to the radiator which is not a good thing.

Mechanical Fan to Electric Fan Swap (Automatic's) (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4929-Mechanical-Fan-to-Electric-Fan-Swap-(Automatic-s)-doityourself)



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/310b59f807eee414a069e3441bdcbd06.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/139df67ab92390e22d937e907cc4cd66.jpg

[Vas]

I did not. Nobody mentioned that. I'm not sure why it would be different now...

I had left it on as well when I did the conversion on a relatives zhp. Been over a year and still fine.

One day I will remove it though.

[roadbiker_2]

All, thanks for replying to this question. I have not taken the bumper off, I know there are just two bolts that are in the bumper itself, what about elsewhere besides the push connectors that go on the center bumper pieces connected to the plastic shield under the belly? Anything on the fenders itself, clips?


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[Sockethead]

The Aux fan needs to be removed when this mod. Remove the mechanical fan, install the electrical fan and plug it into where the auxiliary fan used to be and remove the auxiliary fan.

If you leave the auxiliary fan installed it just blocks airflow to the radiator which is not a good thing.

Mechanical Fan to Electric Fan Swap (Automatic's) (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4929-Mechanical-Fan-to-Electric-Fan-Swap-(Automatic-s)-doityourself)





https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/139df67ab92390e22d937e907cc4cd66.jpg



I was wondering what those 4 bolts were for... they are used for the intercooler mounts in when installing the ESS TS2.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/49a0422a280e424c1b8d1232afbad49f.jpg

[derbo]

I was wondering what those 4 bolts were for... they are used for the intercooler mounts in when installing the ESS TS2.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/49a0422a280e424c1b8d1232afbad49f.jpg

Mmm TS2..


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[Dual]

Note the fan over there for use when doing dyno pulls. ;-)

[Sockethead]

Lol that fan sucks more than it blows... That's for the poor mechanic (me) that has to work in the garage when it's 100 degrees

[stephenkirsh]

The Aux fan needs to be removed when this mod. Remove the mechanical fan, install the electrical fan and plug it into where the auxiliary fan used to be and remove the auxiliary fan.

If you leave the auxiliary fan installed it just blocks airflow to the radiator which is not a good thing.

Mechanical Fan to Electric Fan Swap (Automatic's) (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4929-Mechanical-Fan-to-Electric-Fan-Swap-(Automatic-s)-doityourself)



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/310b59f807eee414a069e3441bdcbd06.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170123/139df67ab92390e22d937e907cc4cd66.jpg

Hmm bummer. Odd this is the first I'm hearing of this, but it makes sense.

How does bumper come off?

[Sockethead]

It's really easy. Two big bolts underneath and 8mm head screws in the fenderwell and underneath. Maybe 15-20 min to remove

[WOLFN8TR]

Yep super easy. Just lay down something to protect the bumper from getting scratched. If you can get a friend to help it makes it way easier.

One thing you also have to remember about doing this mod is the Auto transmission is cooled via the radiator so you want as much air flow as possible. There is a Tstat down on the left side for the transmission, I replaced mine when doing this mod as well.

[Prestovie]

Any recommendations for a front end bra for the ZHP? Not sure if I want to go with the clear bra or vinyl, if you have any experience with a vinyl one let me know!


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[johnrando]

I hv a vinyl one but it doesn't protect the entire bumper, just the 'top' front. Btr than nothing but I only use mine on road trips.

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[Prestovie]

I hv a vinyl one but it doesn't protect the entire bumper, just the 'top' front. Btr than nothing but I only use mine on road trips.

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Would you recommend it, and if so would you know where I could get one? Like you said it's better than nothing haha


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[johnrando]

Hmmm, I don't NOT recommend it, and as said I do use mine for road trips (my hesitancy is that it doesn't cover the whole front). You can actually get one custom made for big bucks). I bought mine from the e46fanatics classifieds. I have seen them online but I can remember from who. If I do I will update.

[san]

In case some of didn't see the post from johnrando -
The Deal Thread -- Save Money

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=14392&share_tid=647&share_pid=516316&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fs howpost%2Ephp%3Fp%3D516316&share_type=t

I'm tempted to get the software update since it's only $120. So my question is if I decide to get back to stock BMW software, is it possible? If it is then any idea how much it would cost?


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[Sockethead]

What software are you running now?
I wasn't impressed with the DInan Stage 3 software I had in my car... I couldn't tell the difference

[san]

What software are you running now?
I wasn't impressed with the DInan Stage 3 software I had in my car... I couldn't tell the difference

Stock software from the factory. This Dinan software is just their basic performance software which raises the engine rpm limit by 240rpm and they specify HP gain of 4HP, which I wouldn't notice I'm sure. But they also say it makes the throttle response better so if the response is similar to a shark injector, then I was thinking at this price maybe it would be worth it...


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[az3579]

Any recommendations for a front end bra for the ZHP? Not sure if I want to go with the clear bra or vinyl, if you have any experience with a vinyl one let me know!


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FYI, the vinyl bra might wear the paint off the inside of your front fenders. One of the previous owners of my car used one and you can see where the paint has completely worn off the inside edge of the fender when you open the hood.

[Sockethead]

Stock software from the factory. This Dinan software is just their basic performance software which raises the engine rpm limit by 240rpm and they specify HP gain of 4HP, which I wouldn't notice I'm sure. But they also say it makes the throttle response better so if the response is similar to a shark injector, then I was thinking at this price maybe it would be worth it...


My dyno runs show no significant gain by raising the rev limiter. All that will do is get you a little higher in the RPMs on the next shift. I noticed no difference in throttle response. I did notice a 2 MPG increase in fuel economy...
Also, the tune is tied to the VIN of the car so you can't transfer it to another car and you have to have an authorized Dinan dealer install it.

[san]

My dyno runs show no significant gain by raising the rev limiter. All that will do is get you a little higher in the RPMs on the next shift. I noticed no difference in throttle response. I did notice a 2 MPG increase in fuel economy...
Also, the tune is tied to the VIN of the car so you can't transfer it to another car and you have to have an authorized Dinan dealer install it.

Thanks Rob! I got a quote from an authorized Dinan dealer and they quoted me approximately $200 for the software and labor. But since you are saying you didn't notice any difference, I think il skip it.


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[johnrando]

If you are looking for a slight performance bump, I am happy with the AA s/w, and Eurocharged (which came out for sale after) said they actually worked with AA on theirs. The butt dyno feels slightly peppier (is that a word? :) ), there is a little more growl with a Perf Intake, and my MPG actually got better. I later added the Dinan STEP s/w but that is another story, along with other mods likely pulleys, etc.

[Sockethead]

Yea, I think there are better tunes out there for the money

[holyc0w]

From my reading, alternator pulleys might last a bit longer than the other ones. Are they not ball-bearing? Is there a recommended mileage for preventative maintenance?

[Prestovie]

Can somebody please help me fix this, it's killing my insides every time I walk out in front of my car with the light on.
For some reason there are a couple of finger print smudges on the xenon bulbs on the left side of my car and I have no idea how to wipe them off. But gosh does it bug the hell out of me https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/bb369bac9e971fc0daa7efbd525603eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/a433146880427699f606a72380355a3a.jpg


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[Sockethead]

You have to dissemble the lights and clean the inside of the lens...

[ELCID86]

Lol. OCD is a bear.

Pretty easy to get the lenses off after you pull the light housing out.

[704sw]

Can somebody please help me fix this, it's killing my insides every time I walk out in front of my car with the light on.
For some reason there are a couple of finger print smudges on the xenon bulbs on the left side of my car and I have no idea how to wipe them off. But gosh does it bug the hell out of me https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/bb369bac9e971fc0daa7efbd525603eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/a433146880427699f606a72380355a3a.jpg


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Someone touched the projector when installing those AEs. You'd have to bake open the headlight, clean the projector lens, and then bake it to seal it back together. Make sure you add some fresh butyl seal or you'll probably have some fogging/condensation.


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[Prestovie]

You have to dissemble the lights and clean the inside of the lens...

Omg that's so frustrating, like how did anyone not notice that they did that...?
How difficult is it to disassemble the housing


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[Prestovie]

Someone touched the projector when installing those AEs. You'd have to bake open the headlight, clean the projector lens, and then bake it to seal it back together. Make sure you add some fresh butyl seal or you'll probably have some fogging/condensation.


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Aw jeez that just sounds difficult, I don't even know what baking open the lens means haha, might just have to let this one kill me


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[ELCID86]

Removal: https://youtu.be/D_a_nYiwOzA


That's not my car or my accent ;-)

---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[704sw]

Aw jeez that just sounds difficult, I don't even know what baking open the lens means haha, might just have to let this one kill me


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It's not *that* bad. You have a sedan so the housing is small enough to fit in even an apartment sized oven. You basically put it in at a low temp (200-250°) for like 10min iirc. This softens the butyl seal so you can pull it apart.

I've taken apart many a light for projector modding and retrofitting. If you decide to give it a shot, let me know. I'm happy to help coach you through it. After modding my X3 adaptive lights, nothing lighting related scares me anymore.


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[Prestovie]

It's not *that* bad. You have a sedan so the housing is small enough to fit in even an apartment sized oven. You basically put it in at a low temp (200-250°) for like 10min iirc. This softens the butyl seal so you can pull it apart.

I've taken apart many a light for projector modding and retrofitting. If you decide to give it a shot, let me know. I'm happy to help coach you through it. After modding my X3 adaptive lights, nothing lighting related scares me anymore.


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Awesome thanks so much for the advice, I'll hopefully be able to tackle it next weekend, I'll be sure to shoot you a PM:)


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[Sockethead]

You have a sedan... no need to bake. The covers have a normal gasket and just pop off.

[704sw]

You have a sedan... no need to bake. The covers have a normal gasket and just pop off.

Damn, really? That's awesome. I've never seen a modern headlight that wasn't sealed with heat. Don't make me start regretting my decision to buy a coupe...


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[Prestovie]

You have a sedan... no need to bake. The covers have a normal gasket and just pop off.

Oh beautiful!


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[Sockethead]

I think Dane or somebody had a DIY for removing the lens

[az3579]

Removing the lens is easy on a sedan. Remove the gasket/seal that clips on to the top (yes, the one that is deteriorating), remove the side corner light (one screw retainer), remove the lower trim, and you can access the clips on the bottom of the lens. The clips go all the way around the lens.

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[Prestovie]

Removing the lens is easy on a sedan. Remove the gasket/seal that clips on to the top (yes, the one that is deteriorating), remove the side corner light (one screw retainer), remove the lower trim, and you can access the clips on the bottom of the lens. The clips go all the way around the lens.

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I've had condensation problems on my lights before, so should I just go ahead and order new gaskets for when I'm fixing them? I feel like the old ones will crumble at deconstruction


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[704sw]

I've had condensation problems on my lights before, so should I just go ahead and order new gaskets for when I'm fixing them? I feel like the old ones will crumble at deconstruction


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I'm not 100%, but I think someone on E46F was selling some


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[Sockethead]

The headlight gaskets surprisingly, hold up pretty well compared to other BMW gaskets but if you don't know the history then I'd replace them

[ELCID86]

I think Joop had a DIY.

[Prestovie]

Hey guys so much to my surprise somebody pointed out that my mirrors don't match my paint... and now I'm really bummed out about that lol. I never noticed that they were supposed to match, and now being aware that they don't match is making my skin itch. What do you guys think? Does the matte look ok? It bothers me because nothing else on the car is matte, so now I've got a few options: a) gloss black b)color match c) leave it https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170130/2835bb359fb02e9195b6060c90090bf9.jpg


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[704sw]

If you like the black look, go gloss. I think it adds a nice bit of contrast. I'm looking for Jet Black M3 mirrors to match the shadowline but all I can find is Carbon [emoji849]


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[Prestovie]

If you like the black look, go gloss. I think it adds a nice bit of contrast. I'm looking for Jet Black M3 mirrors to match the shadowline but all I can find is Carbon [emoji849]


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Good thinking, they'll match my shadow trim and my grille. And yea I hate everyone's obsession with carbon, every parts search is littered with it lol
Thanks for the input!


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[az3579]

On the mirrors, depends on how OCD you are. That would bother the crap out of me, personally.
I'd go with gloss black or the standard silver.

[Prestovie]

On the mirrors, depends on how OCD you are. That would bother the crap out of me, personally.
I'd go with gloss black or the standard silver.

Well, technically speaking here: medicated [emoji28] so yeah this is something that's gonna get done before the end of next weekend


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[Dual]

What is anyone using for an in-car phone mount? I can't seem to find a single thread about this (I can find many threads that have phone mounts, but not a single thread with feedback on many phone mounts).
I have never really cottoned to the steel mounts which extend rightwards from the right side of the central section because I like having the phone closer to my eyes. I have just replaced my vent-mount with a new one I'm really enthusiastic about. It's an Anker brand product (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMV5X86/) which has a locking swivel function. This has two big benefits over my previous vent mount-


It lets me 'aim' the phone at the driver's position for greater readability.
It increases clearance between the vents and the phone, so heated or cooled air doesn't slam into the phone as strongly, and the center HVAC controls are more accessible.

It also has two selectable gaps for the 'fingers', allowing a snug fit for a range of cars.
The magnet is stronger than the unit it replaces, and the vent grip and swivel lock are both really snug and secure.

Hope this is of help to someone...

28859
28860

[Prestovie]

I'm using a similar amazon product, with the magnet and all, and I can say I'm a huge fan of the flexibility of the amount of positions you can put it in- I also love people's reactions when I just slap my phone on my dash and it sticks :biggrin

[sillieidiot]

Can somebody please help me fix this, it's killing my insides every time I walk out in front of my car with the light on.
For some reason there are a couple of finger print smudges on the xenon bulbs on the left side of my car and I have no idea how to wipe them off. But gosh does it bug the hell out of me [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/bb369bac9e971fc0daa7efbd525603eb.jpg[/IMG[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170129/a433146880427699f606a72380355a3a.jpg[/IMG


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It doesn't look like it's on the inside of the projector lens. Just pop off the lens cover and wipe the outside of the projector lens. It's an easy fix. You probably don't need to change anything else if you don't want to.

[sillieidiot]

Yeah I have one of those mounts too. I never use it though lol It's a Spigen one. I got it for free during one of those SD price mistake things. It messes with my wireless charging so that's why I never use it.

[Prestovie]

It doesn't look like it's on the inside of the projector lens. Just pop off the lens cover and wipe the outside of the projector lens. It's an easy fix. You probably don't need to change anything else if you don't want to.

Really? Well that's good to know, I'm probably gonna go check it out right now and see what I can do


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[704sw]

It definitely looked to be on the front of the lens; I'm sorry if it seemed I was suggesting it was on the backside. Use rubbing alcohol to clean it and you should be good to go.


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[Prestovie]

It definitely looked to be on the front of the lens; I'm sorry if it seemed I was suggesting it was on the backside. Use rubbing alcohol to clean it and you should be good to go.


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Phew well I just got back from fixing it(wish I saw that tip about rubbing alcohol, I just wiped it off with a clean microfiber)
It was easy but also just a pain in the A, some of those 8mm bolts are in the most ridiculous spots, ended up having to connect three socket extensions together lol
But here's the finished product
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/6c68bbcddefdfddef0a85ffffc94a6b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/2f3cfe09d3485aa9485b5ab92bb42793.jpg
My nerves are at rest... for now :biggrin


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[sillieidiot]

Why did you need to take out the bolts? All you needed to do was take the corner off and then the trim at the bottom. You can pop off the lens while it's still on the car lol

[Prestovie]

Why did you need to take out the bolts? All you needed to do was take the corner off and then the trim at the bottom. You can pop off the lens while it's still on the car lol

Omg really... yikes lol there goes that [emoji23] helpful information for the future
I can see how to do it now that I think about it, oh well the passenger side will be that much easier then haha


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[Sockethead]

Reminds me of one of my favorite quotes: "Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it"

[johnrando]

yup, good one.

[704sw]

Want to confirm: M3 vert seats are the same as non-M Sport seats (minus the seatbelt)? A local part-out has cinnamon vert seats. I know the back isn't compatible, but I'm kind of liking the idea of the seat mounted belts so I can minimize the beating my cube trim takes.


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[sillieidiot]

Want to confirm: M3 vert seats are the same as non-M Sport seats (minus the seatbelt)? A local part-out has cinnamon vert seats. I know the back isn't compatible, but I'm kind of liking the idea of the seat mounted belts so I can minimize the beating my cube trim takes.


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They are exactly the same as the non-M vert seats.

[704sw]

They are exactly the same as the non-M vert seats.

Gracias


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[az3579]

They are exactly the same as the non-M vert seats.

I think functionally they are. However, M seats have Nappa leather, where the non-M seats are Montana. Nappa is a finer quality leather.

[az3579]

Interesting E46 fact of the day (didn't know where else to put this):
If you hold your heated seat button for 1 second, the heating turns off. Useful for if you want to preserve the button by not having to press it three times to turn off (if on highest setting). :)

I didn't see mention of it online; perhaps I have discovered something nobody else has! :biggrin

[ZHPizza]

Interesting E46 fact of the day (didn't know where else to put this):
If you hold your heated seat button for 1 second, the heating turns off. Useful for if you want to preserve the button by not having to press it three times to turn off (if on highest setting). :)

I didn't see mention of it online; perhaps I have discovered something nobody else has! :biggrin

I read about that in the owner's manual while we were driving the blue car back from Canada.

Tested it out.

Said "ehh I'll forget that in a week."

Thanks for the reminder!

[BMWCurves]

I definitely didn't know that. I will definitely do that, since I only like my heated seats on "boiling lava hot/sterilization" setting or not on at all.

[slater]

I definitely didn't know that. I will definitely do that, since I only like my heated seats on "boiling lava hot/sterilization" setting or not on at all.

LOL. my wife is like that. i only put it on setting 3 when it's reeeeally cold out. otherwise 1 works great.

[san]

I'm not a fan of heated seats for some Reason... It just feels weird to me that a part of the body is warm and the rest is freezing cold...


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[ZHPizza]

I'm not a fan of heated seats for some Reason... It just feels weird to me that a part of the body is warm and the rest is freezing cold...


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I agree. By the time they get up to temp, the cold leather has already made you shriek and gotten up to temp with your body.

Now if only you could activate them remotely so that the seats preheat as you walk out to the car...like a block heater for your ass...

[johnrando]

Good info, didn't know that trick. I love the heated seats, especially living near the beach with leather seats, but I rarely get above setting 1 and usually only for a little while. They really come in handy on road trips with the top down when it starts to get cooler at night.

[704sw]

I agree. By the time they get up to temp, the cold leather has already made you shriek and gotten up to temp with your body.

Now if only you could activate them remotely so that the seats preheat as you walk out to the car...like a block heater for your ass...

You're such an enabler. Now I want to figure out how to make this happen.


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[holyc0w]

Heated cloth seats FTW

In the cold I start off with setting 3 and go down to 1 eventually. If it's somewhere above 35 degrees, I might not even turn the air on.

[az3579]

I read about that in the owner's manual while we were driving the blue car back from Canada.


Damn it, dreams crushed. I've never seen or heard anyone mention it. I just assumed everyone just pressed the button three times to turn it off like I do. lol

[Karl Lazlo]

Audi's heated seats are better, IME. Damn near cook breakfast (eggs AND bacon) on them and they slowly lower the temp during the drive.

They are sublime.

[cakM3]

Damn it, dreams crushed. I've never seen or heard anyone mention it. I just assumed everyone just pressed the button three times to turn it off like I do. lol

BP...I knew about this for awhile now... I just assumed you knew...

[anandoc]

Damn it, dreams crushed. I've never seen or heard anyone mention it. I just assumed everyone just pressed the button three times to turn it off like I do. lol

While I didn't know this neat little trick, it would be even better if the car could remember the last state of the seat heater button. That is, if I turned the car off while the seat heater was on at level 1, the next time I turn the car on it should turn on seat heating automatically at level 1.

During the winters, the first thing I do when I start the car is to switch on the seat heater. It would save me that additional step :)

[san]

Damn it, dreams crushed. I've never seen or heard anyone mention it. I just assumed everyone just pressed the button three times to turn it off like I do. lol

If it makes you feel any better I didn't know about it too and now I want to try it on my friends's cars (BMW and non-BMW) lol


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[Sockethead]

I agree. By the time they get up to temp, the cold leather has already made you shriek and gotten up to temp with your body.

I thought they heated up pretty fast. They are much better than the MDX we have


While I didn't know this neat little trick, it would be even better if the car could remember the last state of the seat heater button. That is, if I turned the car off while the seat heater was on at level 1, the next time I turn the car on it should turn on seat heating automatically at level 1.

The newer BMWs do this but only for a short period of time... like if you run into a store quickly, it will hold the setting when you come back to the car.

[theothersawyer]

I use my heated seats 99% of the time. I wish I could only turn on the back portion though. I use it to relax the muscles in my back!

[ELCID86]

Heated Alcantara. Mmm mmm. Toasty buns (and my aching back...)

[Prestovie]

Hey guys just wondering here, my brakes have been real squeaky the last couple months and I'm starting to get fed up with it lol, so when I first bought my car it came with a bunch of extra parts including a box labeled with hawk racing brake pads. Now I'm not sure if the Hawks are on the car or in the box, but the ones in the box are about brand new(pictured) and I'm debating putting them on the car. I've also got some brake quiet that I'm gonna apply. What do you think? Are these the OEM or Hawk pads? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/ff014cb1a75e634ebe2c4c4ddf3a30d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/a2ce704724f40c36791f552409820365.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/c4ddfbc7191c8ca7b7877f4696189329.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/9ceac29aa8247fadd8b4eeb2ab3621d4.jpg


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[az3579]

The side of the box should have a label saying what kind of pads they are. What are they? That will determine whether you should put them on your car.

[Prestovie]

The side of the box should have a label saying what kind of pads they are. What are they? That will determine whether you should put them on your car.

Good point, looks like they're carbon pads(which makes me feel like they're the ones in the box just by the amount of dust they have just handling them, and the color would match https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/2140bf5ceed1b8f1e0a1ed3a25a9f09a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/67a356297f84c6e18e6a48be3c5d99be.jpg


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[az3579]

Please do not install HT10 pads for daily use, which are track only pads. They will not work when they are cold​.

It makes me wonder why the previous owner would have supplied you with track pads. Do you know if s/he tracked the car? I wonder if it's different pads in the HT10's box. The backing plates on those don't look like HT10's. I think they're supposed to be blue painted.

[Prestovie]

Please do not install HT10 pads for daily use, which are track only pads. They will not work when they are cold​.

It makes me wonder why the previous owner would have supplied you with track pads. Do you know if s/he tracked the car? I wonder if it's different pads in the HT10's box. The backing plates on those don't look like HT10's. I think they're supposed to be blue painted.

Ok awesome I'm glad I asked lol I know nothing about brakes.
And yea the previous owner tracked it every month of so which would make sense, there's some blue paint left on the edges.
Thanks for the help!


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[az3579]

Ok awesome I'm glad I asked lol I know nothing about brakes.
And yea the previous owner tracked it every month of so which would make sense, there's some blue paint left on the edges.
Thanks for the help!


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Yep, blue paint, so HT10 is probably correct. Those look like they have plenty of meat left on them, so that would out perfectly for someone who tracks! I'd make you an offer but they're incompatible with my Wilwood BBK setup.

[Prestovie]

Yep, blue paint, so HT10 is probably correct. Those look like they have plenty of meat left on them, so that would out perfectly for someone who tracks! I'd make you an offer but they're incompatible with my Wilwood BBK setup.

How much do they cost retail? Might put them up here for someone who can find a better use for them than I can, won't be around to track all summer


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[az3579]

How much do they cost retail? Might put them up here for someone who can find a better use for them than I can, won't be around to track all summer


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A very very quick search turned up a front pair of HT10 pads for E46 going for about $190.

[John in VA]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170204/9ceac29aa8247fadd8b4eeb2ab3621d4.jpg
Looks like "EB" at the lower right of the pad. EBC is a brand of brake parts.

[Prestovie]

A very very quick search turned up a front pair of HT10 pads for E46 going for about $190.

Oh cool, should I hang onto them? Like I said if anyone is in need id be happy to part with them


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[az3579]

Looks like "EB" at the lower right of the pad. EBC is a brand of brake parts.

The strange thing is, that backing plate matches neither the HT10 nor the EBC Bluestuff.

[Prestovie]

The strange thing is, that backing plate matches neither the HT10 nor the EBC Bluestuff.

[emoji53] well dang, so maybe OEM?
Well if the carbon were on right now I wouldn't be able to brake in the winter, right?


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[az3579]

[emoji53] well dang, so maybe OEM?
Well if the carbon were on right now I wouldn't be able to brake in the winter, right?


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Definitely not OE. OE pads do not have blue coloring. I'd say it's safe to bet it's a track pad, just having trouble identifying it.
If you were to put them on in the winter, you'd be skating through a stop sign/light and probably into the back of another car. Track pads need to be a higher temperatures to function properly.

[Prestovie]

Does anyone have experience with brake quiet?
I have a rattle can right now that I haven't used yet but I've been looking into it and it seems everyone uses a paste of some sort with a brush, so I'm not sure how I would apply a spray can?


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[Prestovie]

Definitely not OE. OE pads do not have blue coloring. I'd say it's safe to bet it's a track pad, just having trouble identifying it.
If you were to put them on in the winter, you'd be skating through a stop sign/light and probably into the back of another car. Track pads need to be a higher temperatures to function properly.

Oh ok well that's good to hear haha, I'll keep them for now then, I do plan to track it eventually so I may as well keep them


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[az3579]

What is the exact problem you're having? When does the squeak occur; is it when you first apply the brakes then it quiets down, or is it a squealing that happens as long as the car is moving and you're on the brake?

[Prestovie]

What is the exact problem you're having? When does the squeak occur; is it when you first apply the brakes then it quiets down, or is it a squealing that happens as long as the car is moving and you're on the brake?

When I'm coming to a stop it starts to high pitch squeal, then stops as I push harder against it, but the last 5ft of the stop are obnoxiously loud. You can hear it from a couple blocks away.
Only noise I hear when I'm driving is when I take a hard left turn my front left wheel makes a small squeak so I think the bearing might be going


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[az3579]

When I'm coming to a stop it starts to high pitch squeal, then stops as I push harder against it, but the last 5ft of the stop are obnoxiously loud. You can hear it from a couple blocks away.
Only noise I hear when I'm driving is when I take a hard left turn my front left wheel makes a small squeak so I think the bearing might be going


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That sounds suspiciously similar to Hawk HP+ pads, which are a "streetable" track pad (mix between street/track). I have a strong feeling you have those installed now... I bet you they dust a lot, right???

If that's the case, there's nothing you can do to shut them up, other than to go deaf or to swap the pads for something else. I'm not sure why anyone in their right mind would want to run HP+ on the street (read: why the seller would sell you the car like that)!!

I'm willing to bet that if you swap to a street pad, the noise will go away.


Back when I had stock calipers, I would run Hawk HP+ pads on the track. In the days before and after a track event (because I was lazy and didn't swap them immediately), I'd drive with them on the street, and would immediately want to disappear into thin air as I came to a stop at stop lights. It was extremely embarrassing, and have had a couple of people try to tell me (at the light) that my brakes are bad, and I'd just have to embarrassingly say "my brakes are fine, thank you". lol

[Prestovie]

That sounds suspiciously similar to Hawk HP+ pads, which are a "streetable" track pad (mix between street/track). I have a strong feeling you have those installed now... I bet you they dust a lot, right???

If that's the case, there's nothing you can do to shut them up, other than to go deaf or to swap the pads for something else. I'm not sure why anyone in their right mind would want to run HP+ on the street (read: why the seller would sell you the car like that)!!

I'm willing to bet that if you swap to a street pad, the noise will go away.

Oh god they probably are lol I remember the seller talking about the squeaking now because they were performance pads[emoji23] and oh yeah, dust on dust on dust, it's ridiculous, makes me want to get some Akebonos that are supposedly performance dustless pads.
And on a more serious note the reason they came with the car is because I bought it from the wife of a former member of this forum(names will stay confidential out of respect) who unfortunately passed, so the car came exactly how he left it with a box of every spare and OEM part


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[Prestovie]

Anyway lol, do you think I should replace them? All I can think of is pulling up to my fated house one night and her dad waiting out front and my just squealing up the entire block. It's an obscure scenario I know but it's not a pretty picture haha


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[ELCID86]

I'd probably replace them.

[az3579]

Replace.

Is it just the fronts? When I had my HP+ pads, the rears would make some weird noise too since I ran HP+ all around. It's very hard to describe the noise they made, but it was when braking in reverse, such as backing into a parking spot. It's almost like a "whomp" sound as I came to a stop.

[Sockethead]

My HP pads make a lot of noise too.... I just ignore it. They'll wear out some day

[Prestovie]

Replace.

Is it just the fronts? When I had my HP+ pads, the rears would make some weird noise too since I ran HP+ all around. It's very hard to describe the noise they made, but it was when braking in reverse, such as backing into a parking spot. It's almost like a "whomp" sound as I came to a stop.

I'm pretty sure they're all around, can hear noise from every direction at some points lol
And I think I've had a similar experience when reverse braking, but like you said it's almost too difficult to describe lol

Any ideas on what the noise might be when I'm making a hard left? No braking just turning


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[az3579]

I'm pretty sure they're all around, can hear noise from every direction at some points lol
And I think I've had a similar experience when reverse braking, but like you said it's almost too difficult to describe lol

Any ideas on what the noise might be when I'm making a hard left? No braking just turning


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Couldn't tell you without hearing it...

[BMWCurves]

Would a ZHP exhaust fit on an E46 330Xi?

[stephenkirsh]

Would a ZHP exhaust fit on an E46 330Xi?

Pretty sure all e46 exhausts are compatible with each other.

[fw_fw]

Pretty sure all e46 exhausts are compatible with each other.

Except M3 I assume.....

[BMWCurves]

Pretty sure all e46 exhausts are compatible with each other.

I wasn't sure if the AWD system would force a different exhaust pipe route.

[hcbeck2689]

I got a whole bunch of parts for my e53 (m54)during the FCPEURO year end sale, because I had planned to buy them at the beginning of the year anyways.
I ended up making A few of my own kits with the FCPeuro kit as a guide. I was just looking through the parts and realized I don't have a gasket for the waterpump. Do I need a gasket? I'm not sure why it wasn't included in their kit.


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[san]

I got a whole bunch of parts for my e53 (m54)during the FCPEURO year end sale, because I had planned to buy them at the beginning of the year anyways.
I ended up making A few of my own kits with the FCPeuro kit as a guide. I was just looking through the parts and realized I don't have a gasket for the waterpump. Do I need a gasket? I'm not sure why it wasn't included in their kit.


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Yup, I would definitely get it... when I replaced the water pump on my car the gasket was so flat I was surprised it didn't leak...


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[hcbeck2689]

Yup, I would definitely get it... when I replaced the water pump on my car the gasket was so flat I was surprised it didn't leak...


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Interesting. This is the kit I went off of. I basically just got the exact kit-coolant. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-water-pump-replacement-kit-240432akt
I don't even see the gasket on FCPs site. I do see an o ring, which i don't think I got.


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[san]

Interesting. This is the kit I went off of. I basically just got the exact kit-coolant. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-water-pump-replacement-kit-240432akt
I don't even see the gasket on FCPs site. I do see an o ring, which i don't think I got.


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I was actually talking about the round black gasket on the water pump which is in the pic in the link you provided, sorry if you meant something else...


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[anandoc]

I was actually talking about the round black gasket on the water pump which is in the pic in the link you provided, sorry if you meant something else...


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Yeah its more a o-ring than a gasket. Part# 11511711484.

When I bought my waterpump from ECS tuning, it came with the o-ring/gasket. No need to buy it separate.

[BMWCurves]

Yeah, I thought the gasket is included already installed in the water pump.

[hcbeck2689]

Yeah its more a o-ring than a gasket. Part# 11511711484.

When I bought my waterpump from ECS tuning, it came with the o-ring/gasket. No need to buy it separate.

Is it necessary to replace? I guess it wouldn't hurt but it seems like the rubber might hold up well.

Edit: opened up my water pump and it was on there :facepalm

Back to my original question. I was looking at the area where the bolts run through. Just want to make sure that there shouldn't be a gasket there. See pic
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170207/a691008c58f8d00ec374e6381eb083a8.jpg

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[stephenkirsh]

Not that I'm aware of. The o ring functions as the gasket.

[anandoc]

Back to my original question. I was looking at the area where the bolts run through. Just want to make sure that there shouldn't be a gasket there. See pic


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Nope, there is no other gasket apart from the o-ring that you already have.

[Sockethead]

Yep the o-ring seals it. When you go to put it in, lube that o-ring with some antifreeze. It will go in nice and easy

[az3579]

lube that o-ring with some antifreeze. It will go in nice and easy


I simply can't see this any other way than as innuendo... :rofl

[Sockethead]

:facepalm

[johnrando]

lol

[NYRhockey]

So tonight took her out for a drive and sitting at a stop light i pressed the clutch to go into first and heard a soft squeak. When i heard it i started to press and release the clutch a couple of times and heard it both when pressing down and when releasing it. It's mild and can only be heard when at idle (or car turned off) since once you get going the engine noise drowns it out.

Quick search says it could be the spring or throw out bearing, the latter which i imagine would suck. Any other ideas on cause? at not even 53K i would not imagine needing clutch work.

[BMWCurves]

So tonight took her out for a drive and sitting at a stop light i pressed the clutch to go into first and heard a soft squeak. When i heard it i started to press and release the clutch a couple of times and heard it both when pressing down and when releasing it. It's mild and can only be heard when at idle (or car turned off) since once you get going the engine noise drowns it out.

Quick search says it could be the spring or throw out bearing, the latter which i imagine would suck. Any other ideas on cause? at not even 53K i would not imagine needing clutch work.

Mine does this intermittently at certain exterior temperatures, usually high 40s to low 50s. My car is low mileage like yours (55k+). I don't worry about it, but I'm interested to hear what other people might say.

[ZHPizza]

Would it not just be worn clutch pedal bushings?

[ELCID86]

lol

+1 :rofl

[az3579]

So tonight took her out for a drive and sitting at a stop light i pressed the clutch to go into first and heard a soft squeak. When i heard it i started to press and release the clutch a couple of times and heard it both when pressing down and when releasing it. It's mild and can only be heard when at idle (or car turned off) since once you get going the engine noise drowns it out.

Quick search says it could be the spring or throw out bearing, the latter which i imagine would suck. Any other ideas on cause? at not even 53K i would not imagine needing clutch work.


I wouldn't worry about it. Mine's been very lightly squeaking on and off since I bought it at 75k, now with 262k and no issues. I think it's just noise.

[NYRhockey]

Ok, so the past couple of days my high maintenance trophy wife kind of car had a stutter in the 2500-3000 rpm range, particularly noticeable in gears 3 to 6, and if you set the cruise control when the car is at that rpm range it will run a little rough. Today on the way home from work the engine light came on so stopped by the nearest Autozone to read the code (haven't yet bought an OBD2 reader) and got a code P2237, which apparently is the oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1 per the description).

Googling this stutter issue the oxygen sensor came up as a possible reason for the stutter, with others saying the P2XXX code is not a BMW code and the issue could be DME (whatever that stands for) software update. So, given this, which should i tackle first? i imagine a software update must be done at the dealer?

[az3579]

Googling this stutter issue the oxygen sensor came up as a possible reason for the stutter, with others saying the P2XXX code is not a BMW code and the issue could be DME (whatever that stands for) software update. So, given this, which should i tackle first? i imagine a software update must be done at the dealer?

A software update will not fix that kind of issue. The O2 sensor is more likely. Seems awfully premature for an O2 sensor though, considering your car has only 52k miles...

[NYRhockey]

I would have thought so too, but c'est la vie. The stutter is undeniably there and easily replicated so "something" is causing it and if the O2 sensor is likely it then i'll have to look into it.

[stephenkirsh]

I have a leak on my wiper fluid reservoir.

If drained it and taken a look at it but can't really figure out where it's coming from.

It seems like the pump simply rests on top of the gasket, and there isn't anything clipping it in. Is that right? Does the little gasket fail?

[ZHPizza]

I have a leak on my wiper fluid reservoir.

If drained it and taken a look at it but can't really figure out where it's coming from.

It seems like the pump simply rests on top of the gasket, and there isn't anything clipping it in. Is that right? Does the little gasket fail?
I believe the pump gasket is a common failure point. I haven't had the issue...yet.

[sillieidiot]

I have a leak on my wiper fluid reservoir.

If drained it and taken a look at it but can't really figure out where it's coming from.

It seems like the pump simply rests on top of the gasket, and there isn't anything clipping it in. Is that right? Does the little gasket fail?

Yeah the pump pretty much just gets inserted into the gasket. Often times the gasket fails, or the pump fails (cracks along the seams).

[stephenkirsh]

Ok thanks guys. Odd design.

[ELCID86]

I believe the pump gasket is a common failure point. I haven't had the issue...yet.

Yep. I think it's <$5. I keep meaning to plug the lines to the headlight washers too.

[daytona90t]

I just had to replace both rubber grommets and pumps in the X3. I tried to stop the leak with just new grommets first. That didn't fix it, it ended up being that one of the pumps had cracked along the bottom seam. I will be replacing both pumps tomorrow. The VDO/Siemens pumps are OEM and around $18.00 a piece.

[stephenkirsh]

Yea the pump currently in there says VDO. I wonder if that means the PO already replaced it

[rguti153]

Does anybody remember somebody on here bought bmw wheel caps on amazon for cheap , from what he mention they were pretty good quality ?

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[ZHPizza]

Does anybody remember somebody on here bought bmw wheel caps on amazon for cheap , from what he mention they were pretty good quality ?

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I got these Genuine BMW cap stickers for $26. I've been through enough sets of knockoffs that yellow in a week that I'm happy to pay for the real deal.

BMW Wheel Center Cap Emblems (4) OEM 64.5mm E46 E60 E90 E92; 36136767550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW4747C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qd6Pyb7B6NQFG

I'll verify that they fit the 135's and edit this post to confirm.

[rguti153]

I got these Genuine BMW cap stickers for $26. I've been through enough sets of knockoffs that yellow in a week that I'm happy to pay for the real deal.

BMW Wheel Center Cap Emblems (4) OEM 64.5mm E46 E60 E90 E92; 36136767550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW4747C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qd6Pyb7B6NQFG

I'll verify that they fit the 135's and edit this post to confirm.
Yo thanks

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[ZHPizza]

Yo thanks

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Good low-key reminder for me to check on those. Yeah, they good.

[John in VA]

I got these Genuine BMW cap stickers for $26. I've been through enough sets of knockoffs that yellow in a week that I'm happy to pay for the real deal.

BMW Wheel Center Cap Emblems (4) OEM 64.5mm E46 E60 E90 E92; 36136767550 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW4747C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qd6Pyb7B6NQFG

I'll verify that they fit the 135's and edit this post to confirm.

Part Number 36136767550
Part Name EMBOSSED BADGE
BMW MSRP $7.27
Online Price from getbmwparts.com $5.82 (other dealers with internet sales have similar pricing)

[BMWCurves]

Does anybody remember somebody on here bought bmw wheel caps on amazon for cheap , from what he mention they were pretty good quality ?

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I bought a set of non-BMW caps from Amazon back in March for my APEX ARC8s:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AV4CNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are perfectly good quality for the price. I'd have a hard time separating them from BMW. I have no idea if they'd be the same supplier a year out from my purchase, but $12 is a pretty cheap gamble:

http://i.imgur.com/vefsELq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2ZHInKC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3iuhRQv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fs4RQOB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/781XN6v.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JtvYFxi.jpg

[dpark]

You bought these from "The Bears Club" in your amazon link above?

The reviews are all over the map with lots of negatives...

[rguti153]

I bought a set of non-BMW caps from Amazon back in March for my APEX ARC8s:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AV4CNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are perfectly good quality for the price. I'd have a hard time separating them from BMW. I have no idea if they'd be the same supplier a year out from my purchase, but $12 is a pretty cheap gamble:

http://i.imgur.com/vefsELq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2ZHInKC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3iuhRQv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fs4RQOB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/781XN6v.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JtvYFxi.jpg
These r the ones I remember being posted a while back, I guess is a gamble for 12 bucks I'll risk it lol

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[BMWCurves]

You bought these from "The Bears Club" in your amazon link above?

The reviews are all over the map with lots of negatives...

Yeah, unfortunately that item changes sellers often it seems. I got it from "jajade"

[dpark]

Thanks. I will see if I can "force" the system to let me buy from your seller...

[Lorenzo]

One of my projects is control arm bushings this year. ECS has 36% discount sale on OEM for $142. But Lemforder is only $92. Any differences that make OEM worth the extra $50?


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[anandoc]

One of my projects is control arm bushings this year. ECS has 36% discount sale on OEM for $142. But Lemforder is only $92. Any differences that make OEM worth the extra $50?


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Nope. Lemforder = OEM without the BMW logo. Also, go for the Z4M FCABs (part# 31107836862/63). They are solid rubber and provide a 'tighter' steering feel and a bit more caster.

[Lorenzo]

Nope. Lemforder = OEM without the BMW logo. Also, go for the Z4M FCABs (part# 31107836862/63). They are solid rubber and provide a 'tighter' steering feel and a bit more caster.

These? That'll be $168. Worth it huh?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31107836862/

[anandoc]

These? That'll be $168. Worth it huh?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31107836862/

Yup, seems to have gone up in price since I bought them ($76 a piece). FCP has them for a little cheaper:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-control-arm-bushing-z4-31107836862

Many members here have gone with the Z4M solid rubber FCABs.

EDIT: Cheaper if you buy just the bushings and install them into your existing lollypops.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/front-control-arm-bushing-set/31107838575/

[Vas]

The BMW Mini Parts Store has them for $69.26 per side. Worth it though.

[BMWCurves]

I have the Z4M FCABs and quite like them. They increase caster a bit and changes steering feel a bit, which I preferred. Then again, I'm sure I would have been satisfied with the stock FCABs but they are fluid filled rather than solid rubber.

[NoVAphotog]

These? That'll be $168. Worth it huh?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31107836862/

I didn't notice squat changing to them except it "ruined" my stock car alignment figures and now I have to explain it, fortunately, RRT has a record of it for my car, but if I went anywhere else...

If you want to drive my car and compare them I'd actually be down for that as I'm of the opinion that we won't be able to tell a difference.

[Vas]

I didn't notice squat changing to them except it "ruined" my stock car alignment figures and now I have to explain it, fortunately, RRT has a record of it for my car, but if I went anywhere else...

If you want to drive my car and compare them I'd actually be down for that as I'm of the opinion that we won't be able to tell a difference.

The range for caster is 1 degree (5.1 degree - 6.1 degree ).

Z4M FCAB add 1 degree of caster compared to the stock fcab.

So if your alignment falls into that range, it is not " ruined".

Our cars with the Z4M are usually at the top of that range (6.1 degrees). Cars with the stock FCAB are usually at 5.1 degrees from the factory.

Positive caster will make the vehicle more stable at high speeds, and will increase tire lean when cornering. Lastly it will increase steering effort.

The first two items are the most noticeable.

[NoVAphotog]

The range for caster is 1 degree (5.1 degree - 6.1 degree ).

Z4M FCAB add 1 degree of caster compared to the stock fcab.

So if your alignment falls into that range, it is not " ruined".

Our cars with the Z4M are usually at the top of that range (6.1 degrees). Cars with the stock FCAB are usually at 5.1 degrees from the factory.

Positive caster will make the vehicle more stable at high speeds, and will increase tire lean when cornering. Lastly it will increase steering effort.

The first two items are the most noticeable.

Hmm Thanks for the informative response Vas, to my "stay stock stay worry free" ignorant one. Mine are at 6.1 now and it is red on the sheet/out of spec. I'll check the folder when I get home.

[anandoc]

Hmm Thanks for the informative response Vas, to my "stay stock stay worry free" ignorant one. Mine are at 6.1 now and it is red on the sheet/out of spec. I'll check the folder when I get home.

With the Z4M FACBs, my caster is set to 5.9 degrees - within spec.

[BMWCurves]

Mine's set to about 6.3 degrees I think.

[Vas]

Hmm Thanks for the informative response Vas, to my "stay stock stay worry free" ignorant one. Mine are at 6.1 now and it is red on the sheet/out of spec. I'll check the folder when I get home.

Even if it is still red, still within Spec though. Don't fret about it.

Think of it this way, more positive caster = more tire lean when cornering = bigger contact path during the corners.

[stephenkirsh]

I've z4m bushings and noticed a bit better turn in.

I got them mostly because they say the solid rubber lasts longer than fluid filled ones.

I told my shop about the bushings when I got an alignment. No problems.

[Lorenzo]

I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

Two questions:

1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.

[BMWCurves]

95% sure Sachs and BMW are one and the same for the ZHP.

I'd say get the Koni Yellows, I really like mine. They're supposed to last longer (50k vs. 100k miles), they are adjustable, and they come with a factory warranty that is basically lifetime. However, you could get a lifetime warranty if you purchased the BMW shocks through FCP Euro, so Sachs might be a perfectly good option.

That said, at 150k+ miles on the original shocks means they're surely shot, and either option will make it feel like a new car. I'd also suggest bushings if you haven't replaced those already (I recall you've done some maintenance stuff already).

EDIT: Forgot to add how I feel about my Konis in terms of actual performance and comfort. The ride quality is definitely improved compared to my worn factory shocks, and the performance is better as well, the car feels much more planted. It was initially stiff at 3/4 from soft setting, but it has settled a bit and is more supple now. I really like the balance I currently have between ride comfort and performance; it makes for a great daily driver that can still be caned in the twisty back roads. It is on stock springs so ride height is factory. One of my favorite "upgrades" to my car. You can read about it more here in my suspension refresh thread that I always post here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16182-Help-with-Suspension-Refresh-at-50k-miles-10-years

[anandoc]

95% sure Sachs and BMW are one and the same for the ZHP.



Yup, Sachs is OEM.

[Vas]

I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

Two questions:

1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.

Don't bother with the Genuine BMW or Sachs. Both are the same.

Koni yellow if you plan on adjusting the dampening. If not Koni FSD.

[Sockethead]

I'd go for the Koni yellows. They're less expensive and they are adjustable. Koni makes a damn good shock and they've been around forever. I used them on my 1967 cougar that I had setup for road racing back in the late 70's. They were adjustable then too,

[ZHPizza]

I'm researching and pricing out a shock/strut replacement project. I priced these options:

1. Koni Yellow. $530 from Race Consulting Agency.
2. Genuine BMW. $714 from BMWMini Parts Store
3. Sachs. $584. ECS Tuning or FCP Euro

Two questions:

1. Is there a difference between Genuine BMW and Sachs? Aren't both considered OEM?
2. Pros/cons of Koni vs Genuine BMW and Sachs

Current setup is original with 156k miles. This is a weekend car. I'm also planning to autocross.

Did you mean to leave off Koni FSD's?

$614 from Race Consulting Agency (http://raceconsultingagency.com/i-98613.aspx?gclid=Cj0KEQiA4o3DBRCJsZqh8vWqt_8BEiQA2 Fw0eeW-13u1jL97XvCzKP7gSh6_mR5OkXU2n19t7INtpS4aApCk8P8HAQ )

Might want Yellows if the car is just used for play, though.

[derbo]

Question:

Does the DC outlet by the ashtray turn off when the car is parked? I have a bluetooth Reciever plugged into it but it seems to never turn off.

I left it plugged it when I got to work, and when I came out to go get lunch the other day, it was still blinking before I even hit the unlock on the car.

[ZHPizza]

Question:

Does the DC outlet by the ashtray turn off when the car is parked? I have a bluetooth Reciever plugged into it but it seems to never turn off.

I left it plugged it when I got to work, and when I came out to go get lunch the other day, it was still blinking before I even hit the unlock on the car.

Nope -- it's always hot.

[anandoc]

Nope -- it's always hot.

+1 - its always hot. If you want a switched supply, you can tap into the homelink connector tucked away within the sunroof motor area. That ways your bluetooth receiver would be out of sight as well as only powered while your car is on.

[Prestovie]

What's supposed to be in the back left of the engine bay? I've seen multiple BMWs with a space there, and it's not for the airflow, so I have no idea what it's for. My only guess is that it's where the battery used to be located because there is a positive terminal hanging there. Anyone else?


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[derbo]

+1 - its always hot. If you want a switched supply, you can tap into the homelink connector tucked away within the sunroof motor area. That ways your bluetooth receiver would be out of sight as well as only powered while your car is on.

Yea, I'll most likely rewire it to 12V Switched. SO BOTHERSOME to unplug all the time ;)

[derbo]

What's supposed to be in the back left of the engine bay? I've seen multiple BMWs with a space there, and it's not for the airflow, so I have no idea what it's for. My only guess is that it's where the battery used to be located because there is a positive terminal hanging there. Anyone else?


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The DSC MK20 and the 20-pin diagnostic plug sits in there on early models.


It also serves as symmetry for the RHD models. :)

29223

[anandoc]

What's supposed to be in the back left of the engine bay? I've seen multiple BMWs with a space there, and it's not for the airflow, so I have no idea what it's for. My only guess is that it's where the battery used to be located because there is a positive terminal hanging there. Anyone else?


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You mean engine bay, passenger side? Its known as the "drug bin". The RHD BMWs (e.g. ones in UK) have the brake reservoir on that side due to differences in the steering placement etc.

The positive and ground terminals there are for you to jump-start your car or give others a boost.

[BMWCurves]

The DSC MK20 and the 20-pin diagnostic plug sits in there on early models.


It also serves as symmetry for the RHD models. :)

29223

Is that what it is? My sister's Canadian 2003 330Xi has a similar looking module/component (I think, I'm going from memory). I assumed it had to do with the AWD system somehow.

[az3579]

Is that what it is? My sister's Canadian 2003 330Xi has a similar looking module/component (I think, I'm going from memory). I assumed it had to do with the AWD system somehow.

I'm think that's an AWD thing, relocated there for some reason.

[derbo]

I'm think that's an AWD thing, relocated there for some reason.

Maybe the migration to the mk60 gave room for the xi components?


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[johnrando]

Keith, did you ever finish your drug bin cover work?

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[BMWCurves]

Three questions:

What is a fair price range for good condition used E46 M3 side mirrors?
I'm thinking of converting my fog light lenses to yellow lenses. What are common options, a coating or finding aftermarket lens options?
In that same vein, I'm thinking about maybe switching to non-fluted i.e. clear lenses. What are my options for finding clear lenses, are there aftermarket options or should I try and go used?

As always, I appreciate any words of advice!

[Sockethead]

I don't think you can buy just the lenses for the fog lights... I tried years ago. The after market (depo) fog lights have clear lenses. I've had those on my car for years without any issues

[stephenkirsh]

Laminix makes a yellow covering you can just put over the lens

[sillieidiot]

Three questions:

What is a fair price range for good condition used E46 M3 side mirrors?
I'm thinking of converting my fog light lenses to yellow lenses. What are common options, a coating or finding aftermarket lens options?
In that same vein, I'm thinking about maybe switching to non-fluted i.e. clear lenses. What are my options for finding clear lenses, are there aftermarket options or should I try and go used?

As always, I appreciate any words of advice!

between 250-350 for the mirrors. depending on condition.

just use lamin-x yellow film. otherwise, i guess you can try staining the glass.

you'll need to buy new foglight housings. the DEPO ones are actually pretty close to OE quality. They just have thinner glass and the adjustment screw is a little different.

[Prestovie]

You mean engine bay, passenger side? Its known as the "drug bin". The RHD BMWs (e.g. ones in UK) have the brake reservoir on that side due to differences in the steering placement etc.

The positive and ground terminals there are for you to jump-start your car or give others a boost.

Sorry I wasn't technical about it lol, think my point got across either way I put it. But that makes sense, thanks, someone needs to hollow out an air filter and cram it in there for... uses [emoji102]


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[Prestovie]

Was thinking about this recently after my old lanyard broke (KPMG) and I was wondering why I don't see a ZHPmafia lanyard on the cafepress site? Has it been brought up here before? Either a lanyard or a keychain of some sort would be really cool imo, thoughts?

[Prestovie]

Something like this:
2928229283

[sillieidiot]

that looks ugly imo lol

[Prestovie]

that looks ugly imo lol

Well alrighty then


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[704sw]

Something like this:
2928229283

What about a simple monochromatic theme? White/grey lanyard with black text (keep the car red, of course)?

[san]

Did any of you change the oil dip stick tube when replacing the ccv system? I didn't when I replaced the ccv on my Zhp but noticed that ecs tuning recommends it...


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[Sockethead]

You don't need to replace the tube unless it's damaged but you should replace the o-ring on it

[san]

You don't need to replace the tube unless it's damaged but you should replace the o-ring on it

Thanks Rob!


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[Vas]

Did any of you change the oil dip stick tube when replacing the ccv system? I didn't when I replaced the ccv on my Zhp but noticed that ecs tuning recommends it...


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I replaced the o-ring at the bottom and made sure the tube was not clogged.

[san]

I replaced the o-ring at the bottom and made sure the tube was not clogged.

How did you do that? Just checked visually?


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[Vas]

How did you do that? Just checked visually?


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Correct but I also sprayed brake fluid cleaner down it.

Removal is simple since it is just bolted in 1 spot.

[san]

Correct but I also sprayed brake fluid cleaner down it.

Removal is simple since it is just bolted in 1 spot.

Cool, thanks!


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[johnrando]

Yup, cleaned it and replaced the O ring, not the whole dipstick tube.

[Prestovie]

What about a simple monochromatic theme? White/grey lanyard with black text (keep the car red, of course)?

I like that idea, really id use anything with ZHPmafia on it


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[Prestovie]

This morning I noticed that when I let off the clutch in first gear there was kind of a "whinnying" sound coming from the pedal. Happened again in second but less noticeably. Any ideas? It sounds like metal grinding, but only mainly in first gear


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[roadbiker_2]

The clutch disc does have rivets on them, you probably have a worn disc, go gently as it does not have much of any life left.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-41-e46-330i-6-speed-0303-325xi-0903-clutch-kit/?gclid=CPH0l4HtydICFUm5wAodWO8DSg


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[Sockethead]

or this one:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?19076-FS-new-valeo-OE-clutch-and-PP

[Prestovie]

The clutch disc does have rivets on them, you probably have a worn disc, go gently as it does not have much of any life left.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-41-e46-330i-6-speed-0303-325xi-0903-clutch-kit/?gclid=CPH0l4HtydICFUm5wAodWO8DSg


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Oh, oh no, that's bad news... shit and I'm supposed to go to a car meet on Sunday an hour away. I can't even replace that myself, gotta pay labor... ugh, thanks for the help though glad I could catch it now


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[Prestovie]

Oh my god I just remembered that it's not a stock plate, some Kevlar thing that I saw on a receipt from purchase. I'll have to check when I get home but it wasn't cheap for the whole clutch(like $3k if I remember)


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[Prestovie]

Scheduled an appointment for tomorrow, they said it would take half the day, but at least it's going to get done


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[Sockethead]

If it's down to the rivets then everything is going to need to be replaced. Just replace with OEM and save $$

[roadbiker_2]

Yes, this will require a clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing and a flywheel resurface or replacement. The flywheel is critical as it will need to be resurfaced or replaced to prevent clutch chatter.


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[Prestovie]

Yes, this will require a clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing and a flywheel resurface or replacement. The flywheel is critical as it will need to be resurfaced or replaced to prevent clutch chatter.


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Oh my god... how much am I looking at here realistically? I feel totally shafted right now, just give it to me straight, still waiting on quote from dealership. Dropped it off today and before I left they were out driving it trying to find the issue and see if it what appears to be.


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[Prestovie]

If it's down to the rivets then everything is going to need to be replaced. Just replace with OEM and save $$

Isn't OEM flywheel super heavy though? I'm used to a 15lbs flywheel, I'm not ready for this transition


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[roadbiker_2]

How old was the clutch and was it slipping or chattering, which means that it wasn't smooth?


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[Prestovie]

How old was the clutch and was it slipping or chattering, which means that it wasn't smooth?


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Think it was put in in 2013 but the previous owner did track the car on occasion. Not familiar with what it would feel like if it slipped but the neutral chatter was obvious


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[roadbiker_2]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/remanufactured-clutch-kit/21207531556/


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[Prestovie]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/remanufactured-clutch-kit/21207531556/


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That comes with the stock flywheel though doesn't it? Like how would I know if I could continue to use my other flywheel, or is it basically all toast at this point?


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[roadbiker_2]

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-13213-dual-mass-flywheel-e46-325i-330i-e60-e85-z4/?gclid=CKSkj8nhytICFcW4wAodGFoASw

Had to find a dual mass flywheel. As I have not had to do a clutch on the car yet, there might be a chance that the flywheel could be resurfaced by milling it. You will need to discuss this with the shop you took it to. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend getting a new one. It makes for a very smooth clutch engagement.


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[roadbiker_2]

Can you post what is on your car, I can look at the install on it.


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[Prestovie]

Can you post what is on your car, I can look at the install on it.


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I wish I could remembered right now, I'll have to call the shop and ask them to check the receipts for me. All I know is that some part of it is Kevlar and it was like JG or something similar:/ and yea that $3k price on the bill still sticks in my head too. I'll do some looking around myself


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[Sreten]

When you turn off the car with clutch depressed and you can hear rattle/chatter, your flywheel is done.

Don't try to resurface flywheel, it just won't work long term and this is not something you want to do again.

[roadbiker_2]

Do you track the car? If you don't, it might make sense to just go with a stock setup from a cost standpoint. There is a strong possibility that there is a custom lightweight flywheel that is installed and that will add additional cost for replacement if the clutch is failing. The lightweight flywheel allows the motor to spin up faster as there is less rotational mass. You may notice a difference in the performance, but if you are not tracking the car, your wallet may approve of the stock setup


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[Prestovie]

When you turn off the car with clutch depressed and you can hear rattle/chatter, your flywheel is done.

Don't try to resurface flywheel, it just won't work long term and this is not something you want to do again.

Oh no I was talking about chatter without the clutch depressed, when I press it the chatter goes away(which I think is normal right?)
But what made me take it in was the grinding when I took my foot off the clutch in first and second, kind of a whaling metal on metal noise


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[roadbiker_2]

The clutch disc, if failing, will make noise when it is being engaged. A clutch assembly consists of a clutch disc and a pressure plate that has springs on it. When you engage the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder is engaged which then moves what is more or less a yoke assembly with a throw-out bearing that presses against the Spring Assembly to disengage the clutch. When you let the clutch out, the opposite happens, the springs on the pressure plate will now release and engage the clutch disc, which pretty much is like a set of brakes, there are two friction surfaces, one on the pressure plate side and one on the flywheel side. This is why it is imperative to have a smooth flywheel surface when you do the clutch assembly. It is really not much different than the surface your brakes see and a set of rotors.


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[roadbiker_2]

I have heard a rattling noise on my sons car if you turn the car off with the clutch let out and car in neutral. I am guessing this is the yoke having some slop in it. Because it does this, I have a tendency to turn it off with the clutch engaged so I don't have to hear that noise. I am sure others have heard this as well.


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[Prestovie]

Do you track the car? If you don't, it might make sense to just go with a stock setup from a cost standpoint. There is a strong possibility that there is a custom lightweight flywheel that is installed and that will add additional cost for replacement if the clutch is failing. The lightweight flywheel allows the motor to spin up faster as there is less rotational mass. You may notice a difference in the performance, but if you are not tracking the car, your wallet may approve of the stock setup


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I was just thinking about that but I don't know if I can give that feeling up just yet, and if it's the difference of a couple hundred bucks I'll just cough it up.


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[roadbiker_2]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BD53-USA-06-2005-E46-BMW-330Ci&diagId=21_0093

These are the parts within the clutch assembly. Part number 5 is the yoke assembly that I was referring to, they call it Clutch Release Fork Lever. I am guessing that my sons car has a worn out part 6 and perhaps 5, thus is rattles a bit. Until it is taken apart, this is speculation. There is supposed to be a rubber tip on the slave cylinder as well, this could cause some noise so it might be something that gets inspected as well.


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[roadbiker_2]

I see you are in Chicago, what dealer did you take it to?


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[Prestovie]

I see you are in Chicago, what dealer did you take it to?


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Local BMW dealership, Knauz Auto, I've had them do some stuff to my car before and I can trust them. Thanks so much though for the information on the clutch, did you go to school for automotive? Because you're very well versed in it haha, I just love soaking up the information


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[roadbiker_2]

I worked at a Machine Shop and Auto Repair place in Houston when I was in High School and College. I have done a ton of brakes, old GM 350 diesel replacements in the 80's. I also change more than my fair share of transmissions in my day. I have done numerous clutch replacements. Now all it get to do is work on one of the 5 BMW's we own. 2 E30's, 2 ZHP's and one 2014 328d.

At the time I am a Regional Sales and Business Development Manager for a Instrumentation Company. So I guess you can say that I am still in a very technical field of business. I'm the guy that keeps all of the refineries, ethanol plants, and power plants running. [emoji57]


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[Dual]

I wish I could remembered right now, I'll have to call the shop and ask them to check the receipts for me. All I know is that some part of it is Kevlar and it was like JG or something similar:

No chance it's a Bimmerworld Stage II Clutch with Kevlar Disc and JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel? That's what you have on your sig here. :)

[roadbiker_2]

I guess I could have looked at his signature 🤦🏼*♂️


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[Prestovie]

No chance it's a Bimmerworld Stage II Clutch with Kevlar Disc and JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel? That's what you have on your sig here. :)

Omg I totally forgot that was in my signature!! Hahaha thank you so much I've been on Tapatalk the past few days, doesn't show up[emoji23][emoji23] you're a life saver


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[Prestovie]

I worked at a Machine Shop and Auto Repair place in Houston when I was in High School and College. I have done a ton of brakes, old GM 350 diesel replacements in the 80's. I also change more than my fair share of transmissions in my day. I have done numerous clutch replacements. Now all it get to do is work on one of the 5 BMW's we own. 2 E30's, 2 ZHP's and one 2014 328d.

At the time I am a Regional Sales and Business Development Manager for a Instrumentation Company. So I guess you can say that I am still in a very technical field of business. I'm the guy that keeps all of the refineries, ethanol plants, and power plants running. [emoji57]


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Well god damn haha I'm talking to the right guy then, gotta ask though why'd you pick BMW to live with?


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[Prestovie]

Here's the kit, think someone else also posted the link in the thread. Now I gotta find this Kevlar disc
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/jb-racing-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-clutch-kit/520-200-240kt/?gclid=CPilwo3tytICFdgcgQodAhoIuQ


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[roadbiker_2]

Well that is a damn good question, I guess it is because I have always liked the way they drive from that first drive in a 1986 325i 5 speed.


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[roadbiker_2]

The kit that was posted includes the clutch disc. The big question now is how do you get it from Ohio to Chicago in time for the weekend if the clutch is dead? I would see what the diagnostic is on what the noise is, then just drive it this weekend. Take it easy though as if it is indeed the clutch, as it is very close to compete failure, which means AAA.


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[roadbiker_2]

Let me know the outcome, that lightweight setup is pretty cool, might be worth looking at if the sons car needs a new one. Cheap performance gain


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[az3579]

I don't think clutches fail this dramatically so quickly... wouldn't have it been slipping for a while before it would wear out like this?

[roadbiker_2]

Well I looked a little closer at the ECS Tuning link and that setup is for a 5 speed E46. The flywheel has a different input bearing on it and will not accept the 6 speed input shaft. Take a look at this link. http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmw6.php


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[Prestovie]

Well that is a damn good question, I guess it is because I have always liked the way they drive from that first drive in a 1986 325i 5 speed.


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Haha makes sense, I was just curious seeing you now own 5, hoping that can be me one day


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[roadbiker_2]

My friend the independent mechanic said I need one Toyota. He said that way, no matter how many miles are on it and or how crappy it looks, I will at least have one car that will get me somewhere. At one point about a month ago I was down to 1 and 7/8th cars . . . My 328d was good, but all of the others had something going on with them. The 7/8th's car was the wife's ZHP which had about $1000 worth of parts that needed to be installed, but I was dealing with cooling systems and SES lights on the sons car, the 89 325 hiccuped and had a thermostatic fan clutch fail and it rubbed a hole in a crossover hose.

Her car then got the VANOS replaced with a Dr Vanos unit, DISA redone with German Auto Solutions kit, Cold Weather CCV and let's just go ahead and throw a front set of brakes and rotors. Also all new upper and lower intake and all gaskets and O-rings for your typical wear items. I need a dedicated bay after the rash of repairs I went through. Oh, and she also needed her transmission serviced, that was done a week after all the other things were done!




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[Prestovie]

Alright so I just got off the phone with the dealership, quoted me at $1738 including labor without tax for the pressure plate replacement. They said they'd have to actually look at the flywheel to see if it needs replacing, but they're only allowed to put OEM parts in(oh well) so if anything else is wrong it's gonna have to go back to stock. Some other news... my vanoss tube(?) has a small leak or something, nothing major to worry about apparently but something to monitor. That and my rear control arm bushing is starting to wear down so that needs to be monitored as well. That and my rear brakes are beginning to grind.
It's a laundry list but also a sigh of relief for now knowing that my whole clutch doesn't need to be replaced


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[Sreten]

If they are already taking everything apart, I wouldn't take a chance and not replace everything including the flywheel.
It's a big job and not something you want to do again.

If you can hear rattle/chatter from the flywheel like you described, I would definitely replace it.
It might go like that for a while but even if the clutch kit is new you will still be stuck with that sound.

[roadbiker_2]

That is quite interesting as there assessed diagnostic as the pressure plate is essentially a surface that is smooth just like the flywheel surface. The clutch disc is what wears out as it is like a brake pad and provides the friction material between the two. I am hoping that they said one thing but meant another. If they are taking this car apart, I would hope they would be doing a complete clutch assembly, especially for that price. http://techtonicstuning.com/main/images/categories/141_204.JPG


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[roadbiker_2]

If they are already taking everything apart, I wouldn't take a chance and not replace everything including the flywheel.
It's a big job and not something you want to do again.

If you can hear rattle/chatter from the flywheel like you described, I would definitely replace it.
It might go like that for a while but even if the clutch kit is new you will still be stuck with that sound.

I concur with these comments. As you are wanting to drive this car this weekend, I would go back with the stock setup and do everything. You will not regret it as the clutch will engage nice and smooth. We used to machine the manual transmission flywheels at the place I worked at to achieve a smooth surface prior to reassembling the clutch assembly.


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[Prestovie]

That is quite interesting as there assessed diagnostic as the pressure plate is essentially a surface that is smooth just like the flywheel surface. The clutch disc is what wears out as it is like a brake pad and provides the friction material between the two. I am hoping that they said one thing but meant another. If they are taking this car apart, I would hope they would be doing a complete clutch assembly, especially for that price. http://techtonicstuning.com/main/images/categories/141_204.JPG


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Yikes I didn't think about that, I'll have to check in with them after school, they said they'll be getting the part in by today hopefully and have it done for tomorrow so I'm excited either way. Crossing my fingers that they don't find anything else after disassembly. Like I said before I really can't go back to a stock flywheel [emoji30]
Is the price actually high though for what they're suggesting?


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[Prestovie]

If they are already taking everything apart, I wouldn't take a chance and not replace everything including the flywheel.
It's a big job and not something you want to do again.

If you can hear rattle/chatter from the flywheel like you described, I would definitely replace it.
It might go like that for a while but even if the clutch kit is new you will still be stuck with that sound.

I only hear the chatter from when the car is in neutral and the clutch isn't depressed, which is apparently normal for people with lightweight flywheels


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[Sockethead]

There is nothing wrong with the stock clutch parts. My car is putting out close to 300hp on the stock clutch with 142k miles on it. It still works great!

[roadbiker_2]

Ok, I'm confused. I thought you said the metallic noise was being heard when you were releasing the clutch in first gear when taking off and also when engaging second. Is that not the case? Are you saying it is at idle in neutral with clutch out and not engaged?


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[Sockethead]

I only hear the chatter from when the car is in neutral and the clutch isn't depressed, which is apparently normal for people with lightweight flywheels


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Yes that is normal for after market light weight flywheel... The reason many forgo them

[az3579]

Just to clear up potential confusion about "engaging" and "disengaging" the clutch:

"Engaging" the clutch means the pedal is coming out.
"Disengaging" the clutch means the pedal is being pushed in.

If the chatter from the lightweight flywheel only occurs in Neutral with the clutch engaged (clutch pedal is not being pressed), then that chatter is normal for a lightweight flywheel, especially if it was just replaced in the past few years (not a ton of miles on it). If the chattering occurs any other time than when the clutch is engaged while in Neutral (such as when in gear with the clutch engaged, or if in Neutral but the clutch is disengaged [pedal is pushed in]), then that is not normal.

The jist of it is that for a lightweight flywheel, the only time you should be hearing chatter is if in neutral with your foot off the clutch pedal.

[Prestovie]

The jist of it is that for a lightweight flywheel, the only time you should be hearing chatter is if in neutral with your foot off the clutch pedal.

Ok good haha that's what I figured, thanks for the clarification



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[Prestovie]

I need a new clutch... whole thing needs to be replaced. Fml just got the call from the dealership, total would come to $2400 including the flywheel.
I honestly don't want a 25lbs flywheel, so they said I can order one and bring it in to have them install the whole clutch set.
God damnit


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[Sockethead]

At least they are letting you bring your own parts. Most dealerships, especially BMW dealerships, won't let you do that...

[holyc0w]

At least they are letting you bring your own parts. Most dealerships, especially BMW dealerships, won't let you do that...

And even independent mechanics

Is that the going price for a clutch and flywheel change? I think I had a bill from them PO for $3,000 to $3,500 but there was some discount.