The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[san]

Which brake fluid do you guys recommend for stock brakes and pads? It's been over 2 years since I bought the car and I haven't done it once...


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[anandoc]

Which brake fluid do you guys recommend for stock brakes and pads? It's been over 2 years since I bought the car and I haven't done it once...


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The last time I did this with orange260z (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/member.php?1884-orange260z), we used OEM fluid for our cars

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/Fluid/OEM/ES193630/

[san]

The last time I did this with orange260z (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/member.php?1884-orange260z), we used OEM fluid for our cars

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/Fluid/OEM/ES193630/

Thanks anandoc. Ecstuning says I need 3 bottles, does that sound right?


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[Vas]

Which brake fluid do you guys recommend for stock brakes and pads? It's been over 2 years since I bought the car and I haven't done it once...


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Popular fluid to use is the ATE 200

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/Fluid/ATE/ES1899347/

[das boots]

You can also any other brand name as long as it says DOT 4. As long as you are not racing the car. Street use only.

[san]

Thanks gentlemen!


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[BMWCurves]

I went with BMW's fluid the first time around. I'm now using Pentosin DOT4 LV (low viscosity) because apparently our ABS works best with a low viscosity fluid.

[das boots]

+1. Pentosin. Not familiar with the LV. Not sure of the ZHP requirements on low viscosity. Any related documentations on ABS?

[anandoc]

Thanks anandoc. Ecstuning says I need 3 bottles, does that sound right?


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I think I ended up using 2 bottles for a bleed. You would probably need 3 for a full flush+bleed. Plus, its always handy to have an extra bottle just in case.

[sillieidiot]

Does anyone know if all E46 stock seat rails are interchangeable? Does it matter if powered/not powered?
I need to know what range of seats to search for so I can swap the rails for the driver's seat.

You mean between sedan and coupe? Yeah you can swap them. It didn't matter when I did it one time. The rail is exactly the same length between the two except the sedan has that extra attachment for the seatbelt.

[anandoc]

<snip> The rail is exactly the same length between the two except the sedan has that extra attachment for the seatbelt.

Recently did a seat swap - installed M3 seats in my sedan and Slater fabricated that seatbelt bracket for me. I am sure he can tell you how to go about it if you need to fabricate one for yourself.

[az3579]

Popular fluid to use is the ATE 200

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Braking/Fluid/ATE/ES1899347/

Try not to use Typ 200 if you don't track your car. From what I understand, it more readily absorbs moisture than your standard fluid. It has a higher tolerance for heat, but that isn't something you'll ever have to worry about on the street.


You mean between sedan and coupe? Yeah you can swap them. It didn't matter when I did it one time. The rail is exactly the same length between the two except the sedan has that extra attachment for the seatbelt.


Recently did a seat swap - installed M3 seats in my sedan and Slater fabricated that seatbelt bracket for me. I am sure he can tell you how to go about it if you need to fabricate one for yourself.


Thanks guys. Based on that, the seatbelt bracket unfortunately will limit me to sedan rails only, but at least I have the answer I need. :thumbsup

[BMWCurves]

+1. Pentosin. Not familiar with the LV. Not sure of the ZHP requirements on low viscosity. Any related documentations on ABS?

I can't find any right now but I remember reading it somewhere. This is one thread, and far from an official source. Ignore the inter-member arguments: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?18531-Brake-Fluid-Chart

Honestly I think you would be fine with regular DOT4. I just went with LV.

[anandoc]

Thanks guys. Based on that, the seatbelt bracket unfortunately will limit me to sedan rails only, but at least I have the answer I need. :thumbsup

The seatbelt bracket is a very simple piece of hardware and I am sure you can rig something up using off the shelf stuff from Home Depot or the likes. I will take a picture of it after work and post it here. Actually no, let me go down right now and take a pic...could use a walk given the warm weather outside.

EDIT: Picture of the said bracket

http://i.imgur.com/dos15vc.jpg

[az3579]

The seatbelt bracket is a very simple piece of hardware and I am sure you can rig something up using off the shelf stuff from Home Depot or the likes. I will take a picture of it after work and post it here. Actually no, let me go down right now and take a pic...could use a walk given the warm weather outside.

EDIT: Picture of the said bracket

http://i.imgur.com/dos15vc.jpg
Thanks Anando, but I won't be 'rigging' anything up. I'd rather have a direct swap. It's more headache than I'd like to deal with.

I appreciate the info. :)

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[Vas]

Try not to use Typ 200 if you don't track your car. From what I understand, it more readily absorbs moisture than your standard fluid. It has a higher tolerance for heat, but that isn't something you'll ever have to worry about on the street.



Some people say it may lack anti-corrosion additives but if it is changed frequently it will be fine. But according to ATE and the image below, under normal driving it can last up to 3 years.

ATE SL, Pentosin Super or orginal BMW Fluid is another option as well.

Mike Miller Recommended change interval once a year.

27718

[slater]

Thanks Anando, but I won't be 'rigging' anything up. I'd rather have a direct swap. It's more headache than I'd like to deal with.


it actually is a very simple solution. i used locking nuts, and thicker steel than the seat sliders are made out of. the factory attachment point on the sedan rails is half the thickness, and riveted on.

are you getting some M3 seats with adjustable bolsters??? :) :)

[slater]

Try not to use Typ 200 if you don't track your car. From what I understand, it more readily absorbs moisture than your standard fluid. It has a higher tolerance for heat, but that isn't something you'll ever have to worry about on the street.

if ATE recommends every 3 years for the TYP200 (graph below from vas), then that would tell me it's less hydroscopic that other brake fluids...

personally i use the SL-6.



27718

[Vas]

Per BMW in regards to LV Fluid like the Ate Sl.6

"The Ate SL6 fluid is a low viscosity formula for modern ABS and DSC systems. BMW recommends low viscosity brake fluid for all chassis beginning with the E60 5-series. Low viscosity (LV) is a thinner fluid that works better than a normal fluid in the small channels and passageways in the ABS/DSC pump. Using the heavier fluid will result in a delayed response to ABS and DSC activation and a spongy feel in the brake pedal (only during ABS stops). Ate SL.6 falls just short of DOT5 specs so is classified as a DOT4. It can be mixed with other DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid. For track use, a heavier high performance brake fluid such as Ate Typ 200 or Motul RBF600 or RBF660 is recommended because of their higher boiling point and because the thicker fluid will thin out at track temps. But for street use we recommend switching back to a LV fluid, especially in colder climates."

[az3579]

are you getting some M3 seats with adjustable bolsters??? :) :)

No NB, so no.
I need to lower my seat. For some unexplained reason, my NB driver's seat sits way too high, even on its lowest setting, so my head is practically touching the headliner most of the time. With a helmet, I have to tilt my head or tilt the seat back - it's very annoying. I didn't have this problem with my alcantara seats, and the other ZHPs I've sat in didn't have that problem either. My passenger seat is fine - it sits significantly lower than my driver's seat. I figured swapping the rails should fix the problem... I'm hoping.

[slater]

No NB, so no.
I need to lower my seat. For some unexplained reason, my NB driver's seat sits way too high, even on its lowest setting, so my head is practically touching the headliner most of the time. With a helmet, I have to tilt my head or tilt the seat back - it's very annoying. I didn't have this problem with my alcantara seats, and the other ZHPs I've sat in didn't have that problem either. My passenger seat is fine - it sits significantly lower than my driver's seat. I figured swapping the rails should fix the problem... I'm hoping.

that's weird. i would try unbolting the seat and tipping it back (so it's leaning again the rear seat - but leaving the power connected), and operating the up/down height adjustment so that you can see what's going on. maybe you've got some weird obstruction, or maybe a bent seat leg, who knows!

you should get some manual seat bases, they go even lower, supposedly. i have a set here i was thinking of using but likely won't.

[stephenkirsh]

I thought seats were direct bolt on swap between sedan and coupe.

I guess not?

[az3579]

that's weird. i would try unbolting the seat and tipping it back (so it's leaning again the rear seat - but leaving the power connected), and operating the up/down height adjustment so that you can see what's going on. maybe you've got some weird obstruction, or maybe a bent seat leg, who knows!

you should get some manual seat bases, they go even lower, supposedly. i have a set here i was thinking of using but likely won't.

I was thinking of doing that first. I'm not expecting to find any issues, honestly. I wouldn't even know what to look for, but I've got to at least *try* the free option. Perhaps I should take out the passenger seat at the same time and compare so I can see why it is at a normal height compared to the driver's seat.

A manual rail swap would mean I'd have to make the seats manual, wouldn't it? I'm not looking to do that at this time.


I thought seats were direct bolt on swap between sedan and coupe.

I guess not?

Well almost. The seats bolt in fine, you just have to find a way to mount the seatbealt.

[sillieidiot]

Try not to use Typ 200 if you don't track your car. From what I understand, it more readily absorbs moisture than your standard fluid. It has a higher tolerance for heat, but that isn't something you'll ever have to worry about on the street.






Thanks guys. Based on that, the seatbelt bracket unfortunately will limit me to sedan rails only, but at least I have the answer I need. :thumbsup

You have your sedan seats right? You can pick any seat. Just swap the rails from your seat over to the seat that you're buying. Doesn't limit your choices really.

edit:
Guess I didn't read far enough lol But I had a similar issue when I swap seats into my old sedan. It was because my seat was hitting vinyl sides near the shifter so it wouldn't go back/down anymore. So I loosened all the bolts and pulled the seat over to the left then tightened it. It helped some. Didn't feel like I moved it that much, but I was able to get the seat farther down somehow. The rest was because the seat was newer so it didn't conform to my butt yet LOL

[az3579]

edit:
Guess I didn't read far enough lol But I had a similar issue when I swap seats into my old sedan. It was because my seat was hitting vinyl sides near the shifter so it wouldn't go back/down anymore. So I loosened all the bolts and pulled the seat over to the left then tightened it. It helped some. Didn't feel like I moved it that much, but I was able to get the seat farther down somehow. The rest was because the seat was newer so it didn't conform to my butt yet LOL

Interesting... I'll give this a try. I didn't hear it rubbing on the console, so I didn't think it was friction-related. It just goes all the way down and just stops, like any normal seat would.

I'm hoping it's something simple like that. Seats aren't cheap. :(

[das boots]

Not necessarily ZHP but could also possibly be related. This is for guys with E39s or who would be able to help.

My S.O.'s E39 2003 530i started to have this warning indication on cluster whenever the car starts or shut down "Brake Light Not Working"

But I did check that all brake lights and associated lights are working. Why is the E39 giving false indication? I do have a Peake OBDII. Would it help if I do a Reset? Planning to do this weekend.

What I did not check was the 3rd eye Brake light. Will do that tonight.

[John in VA]

... But I did check that all brake lights and associated lights are working.
Did you check the CHMSL on the rear deck?

[slater]

I was thinking of doing that first. I'm not expecting to find any issues, honestly. I wouldn't even know what to look for, but I've got to at least *try* the free option. Perhaps I should take out the passenger seat at the same time and compare so I can see why it is at a normal height compared to the driver's seat.

A manual rail swap would mean I'd have to make the seats manual, wouldn't it? I'm not looking to do that at this time.

yep, it would. the price you pay for helmet clearance. :)

i would definitely try unbolting them and tipping them back and comparing/measuring movement. i think it should be pretty obvious once you're looking at it... it's like troubleshooting anything.



I thought seats were direct bolt on swap between sedan and coupe.

I guess not?


Well almost. The seats bolt in fine, you just have to find a way to mount the seatbealt.

correct. just a simple L-shaped bracket and good hardware.

[das boots]

Did you check the CHMSL on the rear deck?

That would be the 3rd eye brake light? I will do that tonight.

[BMWCurves]

Not necessarily ZHP but could also possibly be related. This is for guys with E39s or who would be able to help.

My S.O.'s E39 2003 530i started to have this warning indication on cluster whenever the car starts or shut down "Brake Light Not Working"

But I did check that all brake lights and associated lights are working. Why is the E39 giving false indication? I do have a Peake OBDII. Would it help if I do a Reset? Planning to do this weekend.

What I did not check was the 3rd eye Brake light. Will do that tonight.

Had this problem in my father's 540i. None of the brake lights were out. Light went away after a few weeks. No idea what caused it.

[das boots]

Light went away after a few weeks. No idea what caused it.

Is the "Light went away" the cluster indication reading?

[az3579]

Phantom light-out errors are just a fact of life with old BMWs. My E30 did that all the time, even though all lights worked. My friend's E36 does the same thing.

[BMWCurves]

Is the "Light went away" the cluster indication reading?

Yeah. I should have been more clear. There was never any discernible brake light issue.


Phantom light-out errors are just a fact of life with old BMWs. My E30 did that all the time, even though all lights worked. My friend's E36 does the same thing.

Precisely. E.g. I once was driving my father's car and the whole cluster lit up light a christmas tree and then all of the gauges stopped working properly. I pulled over, turned off the car, turned it back on and everything worked fine. Never did it again. A different time the radio screenw ouldn't turn on. Same thing, turned the car off and started it back up, worked fine. Never happened again.

[das boots]

Found out that it is the 3rd eye brake light that is OOC. Anybody know how to remove the bulb from the holder or do they come as one piece?
Tried to push and twist....or simply twist either way.....won't budge. Thanks.

2773127730

[Sockethead]

That bulb should come out of the holder... try squirting some WD40 in there...

[ELCID86]

Yep. Spray, let sit, push down and twist.


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[das boots]

Swimming on WD-40. Sit all night long.......and also all day long tomorrow.

[GotZHP]

Yeah. I should have been more clear. There was never any discernible brake light issue.



Precisely. E.g. I once was driving my father's car and the whole cluster lit up light a christmas tree and then all of the gauges stopped working properly. I pulled over, turned off the car, turned it back on and everything worked fine. Never did it again. A different time the radio screenw ouldn't turn on. Same thing, turned the car off and started it back up, worked fine. Never happened again.

This just happened to me. Except when I went to turn the car back on, the battery was dead and couldnt turn the motor over.

[GreatFrog]

Anyone knows what is the square head bolt for? I have two of them bolted through my bumper cover, one on each side, behind the rubber strips. Mine were loose upon removal of the rubber strips. Are they supposed to be tight? It seems if fasrened too tight they can scrape the paint of the bumper cover. I couldn't find their information in TIS either. Any idea?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/8def77383b12282ce47d205c8b0f7e80.jpg

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[jakksfor20]

They are used to fasten the front bumper to the bumper carrier. You MIGHT be able to get away with tightening with the bumper on, but taking it off would be easier.


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[das boots]

Anybody remember what type of Power Steering Fluid from Redline for the ZHP? Doing a Steering Fluid re-fresh. I know this came up a week or more ago. Now I can't find it. Thanks.

[NoVAphotog]

Anybody remember what type of Power Steering Fluid from Redline for the ZHP? Doing a Steering Fluid re-fresh. I know this came up a week or more ago. Now I can't find it. Thanks.

Redline D4 ATF

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-30504-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B000CPI5XM

[das boots]

How many quarts does a steering flush take???? Thanks.

[BMWCurves]

How many quarts does a steering flush take???? Thanks.

1 quart I believe.

[san]

Ya don't think I used more than 3/4 of a quart...


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[hcbeck2689]

How many quarts does a steering flush take???? Thanks.

I might have some out in my shed that I'll never use.


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[das boots]

1 Qt. ? That's it? By the looks of the Steering system, that it should take at least 2 Qts. to fill the whole system. I guess looks are deceiving.....

[JAIm255]

Not sure if this is the right thread but I can't find anything similar and didn't want to just create an entire new one.
I'm sure someone has already done it, but what can I expect, when speaking of a different feel driving the car, If I add a cold air intake to my 330ci? Is it worth it? Or just nonsense? Thanks in advance!

[san]

Not sure if this is the right thread but I can't find anything similar and didn't want to just create an entire new one.
I'm sure someone has already done it, but what can I expect, when speaking of a different feel driving the car, If I add a cold air intake to my 330ci? Is it worth it? Or just nonsense? Thanks in advance!

I have the gruppe m CAI and honestly I haven't seen any gains in performance. Maybe a little at the top end but it's not much. CAI are pretty much just for the induction noise and depending on which intake some people prefer and some don't. I personally like the growl from gruppe m intake that I have and would recommend it.


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[holyc0w]

General consensus is it possibly adds a horse or few. Just looking at it, the stock design seems to look pretty good. The headers on the other hand...don't look like the best design. I'm guessing the headers would bottleneck any possible major improvements from a CAI.

[Sockethead]

I didn't see any benefit from my Dinan intake

[BMWCurves]

Not sure if this is the right thread but I can't find anything similar and didn't want to just create an entire new one.
I'm sure someone has already done it, but what can I expect, when speaking of a different feel driving the car, If I add a cold air intake to my 330ci? Is it worth it? Or just nonsense? Thanks in advance!

General consensus is that the stock intake is pretty good and the intake itself is not a major choke point of the M54 i.e. swapping it out for something else won't have much effect beyond adding 1 or 2 hp if you're lucky. If you want more power look toward headers, underdrive pulleys, exhaust, forced induction, etc, but that's another conversation.

I have the BMW Performance intake which I believe was rated to 3 hp gain at 6,000 RPM. That's really not enough to notice. Subjectively I might feel a tiny bit more power at the top end but if it was there, I've gotten used to it at this point.

The chief reason people buy them for our cars is to change the intake noise.

[holyc0w]

I looked for some dyno results for intakes

BMW Performance intake:
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507315

Jim Conforti intake:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=91237

AFE intake:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=642879

Mishimoto intake with a car using aftermarket headers:
https://engineering.mishimoto.com/2015/12/bmw-e46-330i-performance-intake-part-2-dyno-results/

I guess the good thing is that none of them seemed to decrease performance. There will be a bunch of variables that probably makes these not so comparable. The Conforti intake one is interesting with a significant increase in torque. I wonder if that's repeatable or perhaps decreases once the computer adjusts to the new intake.

[sillieidiot]

Not sure if this is the right thread but I can't find anything similar and didn't want to just create an entire new one.
I'm sure someone has already done it, but what can I expect, when speaking of a different feel driving the car, If I add a cold air intake to my 330ci? Is it worth it? Or just nonsense? Thanks in advance!

I don't think it's worth it. It's really just for the sound IMO. If that's all you're after then yeah go for it. I'd rather spend the money on like sways or something.

[JAIm255]

Thanks for all your responses guys! I don't think it's something I'd be interested in. The car sounds amazing stock anyway, was looking for more of an increase in power if anything. Again, I appreciate it! All of your answers definitely helped; brought me from unsure to sure I don't want it. :)

[az3579]

I don't think it's something I'd be interested in. The car sounds amazing stock anyway, was looking for more of an increase in power if anything.

Funny you say that - I'm in despair when I have to put my stock intake back in because the car doesn't sound good enough to me with the stock one. lol

[Prestovie]

This has probably been brought up hundreds of times(so apologies in advance) but...
3rd and 4th gear, why so much drone?? Anybody know of any DIY fixes for this?
I would explain more about it but everyone pretty much already knows what I'm talking about
Thanks!

[az3579]

This has probably been brought up hundreds of times(so apologies in advance) but...
3rd and 4th gear, why so much drone?? Anybody know of any DIY fixes for this?
I would explain more about it but everyone pretty much already knows what I'm talking about
Thanks!

No idea what you're talking about. Never had drone with the stock exhaust and definitely no drone with the UUC. :dunno
Do you have an aftermarket exhaust? That's the only way you'd have drone.

[holyc0w]

I'm not sure either. Too low in the RPM range?

[san]

+1 don't think I've ever experienced it, with stock or corsa exhaust...


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[BMWCurves]

Never had that problem. Stock exhaust is pretty darn quiet and absolutely drone free.

[Sockethead]

+1 don't think I've ever experienced it, with stock or corsa exhaust...

I've had both as well, no drone anywhere throughout the RPM range

[Prestovie]

Really? Dang, that's weird. My exhaust is stock but I do have a Vibrant muffler on, so maybe that's the issue? This is the reason why I kept the stock one lol

[Prestovie]

This is actually really rattling me, the muffler was $150 and to have a body shop put it on was $100...
If the stock muffler is the fix then by all means I'll have it put back on:(

[GotZHP]

I don't see how your getting drone from just a muffler swap??

I would suggest maybe some extra sound deadening?

[GotZHP]

This is actually really rattling me, the muffler was $150 and to have a body shop put it on was $100...
If the stock muffler is the fix then by all means I'll have it put back on:(

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71153&page=2

Half way down the page, you will see a post by me (GotBRZ). I ended up using a different but very similar product to finish the car. Made a world of difference and I still kept the 3" exhaust. Talk about drone and resonance. I wish I could find the video of once I added a catless unequal length exhaust header. I could set car alarms off :biggrin

[az3579]

Really? Dang, that's weird. My exhaust is stock but I do have a Vibrant muffler on, so maybe that's the issue? This is the reason why I kept the stock one lol


I don't see how your getting drone from just a muffler swap??

I would suggest maybe some extra sound deadening?

A muffler absolutely can cause drone. If that's all you changed, then that is the cause of the problem.
Once a muffler's on, it's not considered a stock exhaust anymore, BTW. :)

[Prestovie]

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71153&page=2

Half way down the page, you will see a post by me (GotBRZ). I ended up using a different but very similar product to finish the car. Made a world of difference and I still kept the 3" exhaust. Talk about drone and resonance. I wish I could find the video of once I added a catless unequal length exhaust header. I could set car alarms off :biggrin

Aw jeez, that's a lot of work :eek How much did that construction tape end up costing overall in the end?

[Prestovie]

A muffler absolutely can cause drone. If that's all you changed, then that is the cause of the problem.
Once a muffler's on, it's not considered a stock exhaust anymore, BTW. :)

My bad lol

[johnrando]

FYI, general consensus on the BMW Perf Intake is that BMW lists it at +3 HP, but it's really +7 to +10 HP, none of which makes a big diff but every little bit helps.

[sillieidiot]

FYI, general consensus on the BMW Perf Intake is that BMW lists it at +3 HP, but it's really +7 to +10 HP, none of which makes a big diff but every little bit helps.

In the top end which you would never use normally. So it's basically nothing.

[BMWCurves]

FYI, general consensus on the BMW Perf Intake is that BMW lists it at +3 HP, but it's really +7 to +10 HP, none of which makes a big diff but every little bit helps.

Has that been independently verified?

[holyc0w]

The thread at e46fanatics seems to go in that direction. The torque curve improvement is also interesting.
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507315

[BMWCurves]

Can anyone identify the physical differences in terms of looks of a UUC TSE1 vs. TSE2 vs. TSE3? I'm eyeing this one which I believe is the TSE3, but the seller cannot confirm:

27897

[san]

Can anyone identify the physical differences in terms of looks of a UUC TSE1 vs. TSE2 vs. TSE3? I'm eyeing this one which I believe is the TSE3, but the seller cannot confirm:

27897

Can't answer you question but you liked it so much that you are close to buying one already?? Not surprised I must say...


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[NoVAphotog]

Can anyone identify the physical differences in terms of looks of a UUC TSE1 vs. TSE2 vs. TSE3? I'm eyeing this one which I believe is the TSE3, but the seller cannot confirm:

27897

Here is mine, make sure it's the catback version and not just the muffler. That price is in line with just the muffler and/or the seller doesn't know.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/dfcdd625d352bb82e06b0635d31558a8.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/fda597e33f4065b236e7e674a9ad26e2.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161101/340b4e7debd29154d3a06f4c90f37145.jpg



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[NoVAphotog]

Can't answer you question but you liked it so much that you are close to buying one already?? Not surprised I must say...


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It's addicting...first time since I've moved that I wish my commute was longer and I actually had to get in my car. That's saying a lot!

[san]

It's addicting...first time since I've moved that I wish my commute was longer and I actually had to get in my car. That's saying a lot!

Don't care if the weather is freezing cold or steaming hot I always drive with the window down so I can hear the exhaust... :rockon


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[Sockethead]

You guys are funny! I did the same thing: always had the windows down with the Corsa... Still do in the wife's 135... Her Corsa is what inspired me in the first place.
BTW the newer Corsa has the name on the top of the tips instead of the sides. San, I believe yours is that way IIRC

[NoVAphotog]

You guys are funny! I did the same thing: always had the windows down with the Corsa... Still do in the wife's 135... Her Corsa is what inspired me in the first place.
BTW the newer Corsa has the name on the top of the tips instead of the sides. San, I believe yours is that way IIRC

You mean a newer production year of the TSE3 right? Because the picture on the website has them on the side presumably since I don't see them on top. And BP's is on the side as well, Charlie's too IIRC.

[Sockethead]

Mine (now San's) was on the top... They came from Corsa not UUC

[BMWCurves]

Can't answer you question but you liked it so much that you are close to buying one already?? Not surprised I must say...

I liked the sound a lot on Daniel's with the GruppeM. I can't say 100% I'd put it on mine, but I found one being sold somewhat locally in WA for cheap. I just have to figure out if there are any issues with it.

[san]

Mine (now San's) was on the top... They came from Corsa not UUC

Is this what you were talking about rob?
Seems to be on the side....

27905


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[Dual]

I believe there is a well-known problem with the oil filter hardware on these cars developing leaks that are hard to fix? What is this generally called, so I can do some searching here?

[NoVAphotog]

I believe there is a well-known problem with the oil filter hardware on these cars developing leaks that are hard to fix? What is this generally called, so I can do some searching here?

Oil filter housing gasket leak

[Sockethead]

Is this what you were talking about rob?
Seems to be on the side....

[ATTACH]27905[/

Yes that's it! I couldn't remember exactly were it was...

[slater]

I believe there is a well-known problem with the oil filter hardware on these cars developing leaks that are hard to fix? What is this generally called, so I can do some searching here?


Oil filter housing gasket leak

yep, and it's not hard to fix. $5 part. roughly 2-3hrs of labor (not complicated, just tedious).

[Dual]

Thanks for the quick responses, folks!
yep, and it's not hard to fix. $5 part. roughly 2-3hrs of labor (not complicated, just tedious).Oh! This is the thing people are wrapping socks around their filters, building custom catchbasins and otherwise working hard to work around? (Again: I am a newbie to this- maybe I'm conflating some different problems)

[sillieidiot]

Thanks for the quick responses, folks!Oh! This is the thing people are wrapping socks around their filters, building custom catchbasins and otherwise working hard to work around? (Again: I am a newbie to this- maybe I'm conflating some different problems)

iono about wrapping socks around a filter. But the catch can thing is for the CCV

[fw_fw]

The socks thing is for the PS reservoir.....

[Dual]

Thanks all. CCV = some form of crankcase ventilation?

[san]

Thanks all. CCV = some form of crankcase ventilation?

CCV = Crank Case Ventilation


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[Dual]

:crying

[Dual]

Gotta nother: my driver's window is making a sharp cracking sound when closing about 3" shy of closed. Replace the regulator?

[az3579]

Gotta nother: my driver's window is making a sharp cracking sound when closing about 3" shy of closed. Replace the regulator?
Yup. And make sure the window guides are in acceptable condition before you do, otherwise you'll be replacing the regulator again soon enough.

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[san]

Is this the right kit to clean the gruppe m filter?

https://www.amazon.com/99-5050-Filter-Care-Service-Kit/dp/B00029WYVW


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[das boots]

Does anybody remember what type of Brake Fluids did the group recommend for the ZHP? How many quarts / pints required for the fluid flush? Thanks.

[san]

Does anybody remember what type of Brake Fluids did the group recommend for the ZHP? How many quarts / pints required for the fluid flush? Thanks.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ezhpmafia%2Ecom%2F forums%2Fshowpost%2Ephp%3Fp%3D506708&share_tid=11957&share_fid=14392&share_type=t&share_pid=506708


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[holyc0w]

Is this the right kit to clean the gruppe m filter?

https://www.amazon.com/99-5050-Filter-Care-Service-Kit/dp/B00029WYVW


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Yes, that's the right kit for the K&N filters. Though I'm not sure if aerosol or squeeze bottle would be better for the oil.

[BMWCurves]

Is this the right kit to clean the gruppe m filter?

https://www.amazon.com/99-5050-Filter-Care-Service-Kit/dp/B00029WYVW


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In for this. I think that's the right one. The filter maintenance instructions from GruppeM doesn't state an explicit K&N kit

[Sockethead]

Does anyone have an ICV I can borrow? I'm trying to nail down an issue I'm have with the TS2 on my car...

[Dual]

Yup. And make sure the window guides are in acceptable condition before you do, otherwise you'll be replacing the regulator again soon enough. Thank you for this- sorry I missed the post earlier.

[holyc0w]

Is there anything tricky or that I should be careful with for the steering wheel disassembly and reassembly?

I don't think the steering wheel has been opened before. Do the slits on the side have to be broken in?

[ELCID86]

Yes. Be sure to unhook the negative battery cable. Once when I removed a wheel (Dan's car) the clock spring came off when I yanked the wheel. Just be aware it could happen. Was not hard to rewind a bit of the spring wires and slip it back in place. Note the tick mark for alignment when reinstalling.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[holyc0w]

Excellent. Hopefully no springs poking me in the eye.

[ELCID86]

Excellent. Hopefully no springs poking me in the eye.

Piece of cake.

[BMWCurves]

What's a good price for a used but in good condition M3 gauge cluster? I'm seriously considering going that route.

[san]

What's a good price for a used but in good condition M3 gauge cluster? I'm seriously considering going that route.

I've seen quite a few between $100-$150 when I first saw Terra's...


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[BMWCurves]

I've seen quite a few between $100-$150 when I first saw Terra's...


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That's what I saw on eBay but for SMGs rather than manuals. I'll have to keep hunting. What's an LCM go for? Someone on E46F is unwilling to separate an M3 cluster from the LCM, both for $160 total.

[Sockethead]

That's a good price. The clusters were selling for well over $200 when I was looking during the summer. The one I bought was listed at $185. I think I got him down to $150.
Make sure you get the right revision

[das boots]

That's a good price. The clusters were selling for well over $200 when I was looking during the summer. The one I bought was listed at $185. I think I got him down to $150.
Make sure you get the right revision

What version would that be?

[BMWCurves]

What version would that be?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the sticker needs to read "CODE:" 23H OR 24H. There might be more but I think that's what Terra said.

[san]

That's what I saw on eBay but for SMGs rather than manuals. I'll have to keep hunting. What's an LCM go for? Someone on E46F is unwilling to separate an M3 cluster from the LCM, both for $160 total.

When I was looking I remember finding one for $120 for a manual, I almost pulled the trigger on that one. Not sure about LCM's...


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[ELCID86]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the sticker needs to read "CODE:" 23H OR 24H. There might be more but I think that's what Terra said.

I think so too.

[stephenkirsh]

28109


Anybody have the rubber trim on the headlight lenses go gooy/crumbly?

[das boots]

All the time......

[ELCID86]

Mines not that bad. Another inferior plastic/rubber part by our Bavarian friends.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

[BMWCurves]

I mentioned this over in my project thread, but for anyone that has replaced their transmission or engine mounts, did you replace any additional hardware in the process like the nuts?

[Vas]

I mentioned this over in my project thread, but for anyone that has replaced their transmission or engine mounts, did you replace any additional hardware in the process like the nuts?

No. Used old hardware which did not look bad.

[BMWCurves]

No. Used old hardware which did not look bad.

Perfect, thank you.

[az3579]

Mines not that bad. Another inferior plastic/rubber part by our Bavarian friends.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic
Inferior? A part like that lasting this long is rather impressive to me. :dunno

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[Sockethead]

28109


Anybody have the rubber trim on the headlight lenses go gooy/crumbly?

I replaced mine a couple of months ago because they got gooey. I thought I spilled something on them... Never seen rubber deteriorate with so much goo

[san]

I mentioned this over in my project thread, but for anyone that has replaced their transmission or engine mounts, did you replace any additional hardware in the process like the nuts?

I replaced the nuts, as they weren't so expensive... the old ones were fine but I thought might as well since they're cheap...


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[Dual]

Inferior? A part like that lasting this long is rather impressive to me. :dunno
It shouldn't be. It's only been 11 years. What does that say about what's going in the places you can't see so easily?
I retired my 1993 German-made car last February and never saw stuff like that anywhere, ever. (In fact I don't think I've seen that kind of failure on any car anywhere in my family.)

[az3579]

It shouldn't be. It's only been 11 years. What does that say about what's going in the places you can't see so easily?
I retired my 1993 German-made car last February and never saw stuff like that anywhere, ever. (In fact I don't think I've seen that kind of failure on any car anywhere in my family.)
Consider yourself lucky. My E30's rubber bits have seen far better days when I got it, all original. It was 20 years old at the time.

It's rubber, and rubber is affected by climates and other environmental conditions that aren't the same everywhere. Not all rubber will last a long time. Usage matters too... my car has 258k on it and it shows. A ZHP with 40k on it may not have this problem despite being the same age. Probably better taken care of too, I admit.

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[sillieidiot]

That's what I saw on eBay but for SMGs rather than manuals. I'll have to keep hunting. What's an LCM go for? Someone on E46F is unwilling to separate an M3 cluster from the LCM, both for $160 total.

that's pretty cheap. LCMs go between $50-$75 usually. At least that's my experience with selling them. And they take a long time to sell.

[BMWCurves]

I replaced the nuts, as they weren't so expensive... the old ones were fine but I thought might as well since they're cheap...


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Perfect, thanks! I plan to just order a pair along with all my other stuff.


that's pretty cheap. LCMs go between $50-$75 usually. At least that's my experience with selling them. And they take a long time to sell.

I'm contemplating either selling or asking terra to do some programing on the LCM for my car if he has time

[holyc0w]

Is the armrest lock a wear item or is it pretty much lifetime?

I changed the cover and now I'm trying to get it to latch fully. It seems to only be half-way locked, though unlocking also requires a bit of extra work. It seems to have full motion when unattached.

edit: Never mind, I think I didn't pop the lock tabs into the holes.

[ELCID86]

Inferior? A part like that lasting this long is rather impressive to me. :dunno

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Not sure why Honda parts last longer.

[Karl Lazlo]

Mines not that bad. Another inferior plastic/rubber part by our Bavarian friends.

I am going to echo BP here.

I have identical headlights between my 2002 M3 and 2003 330ci ZSP.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2nuPVTU4Z4

I refreshed the 2003's headlights about 18 months ago - new lenses, seals, eyebrows and shortly thereafter, a ballast. And then, the other ballast. At the time, it had about 228k miles on it. No gooey eyebrows, just worn and nasty looking.

Last year, ordered a pair of lights for my broken M3. Stock, original, perfectly serviceable. I spent over an hour cleaning off the gooey leftover mess on each light ass'y with some windex, simple green, coffee grounds and profanity. And a little hate.

Environment does nasty shit to rubber and plastic. Find me any car and I will find "weird" things that fail with regularity and to some degree, frustration amongst its owners. BMWs and German cars do not hold a monopoly on broken widgets. <and here I am jinxing myself - I still have the original window regulators in each of the 2003's doors, 258200 miles later.>

Saab 9-3: Damn CV joints. Too close to the hot side of the turbo and cooked the grease inside. Failed always. DI Cassettes - owners kept them in the trunk, like many of us here do with fuel pumps.

Audis: Christ! Where do I start? My RS6 ate radiators like it was getting paid commission. Oh, and the RS tax makes the M tax look like a bottle deposit.

Nissan Maxima: Water and power steering pumps.

You also have to put this into context... It is nearly the end of 2016 and for many of us, our cars are getting close to 13, 14, 15 years old... My first car (I got licensed in 1987) was a 1980 Datsun 210. It was 8 years old and was a rat trap. Eight. Here I am doing math in my head hoping that my daughter can take one of my currently owned BMWs to school. She has eight years to go. My oldest BMW will be 22 years old at that point. Short of setting the thing on fire in a fit of madness before buying a Camry, I can't see why that can't happen. My point... The build quality of cars today (and 13 years ago) is light years beyond what it used to be back in the day.

We are different than your typical car buying/owner/driver. A cross section here has cars that are well over 100k in miles, atypical driving behaviors to include legal "racing" and/or HPDE-type events and we play with them. The average consumer doesn't do that. People flip cars before they are paid off, get rid of them at the end of the lease and they do not go through the trials, tribulations and celebrations of hitting mileage milestones on their rides. How many Camry owners are out there posting up a picture of their past track day and a short dwell time later, post a 250k mile odo shot? They also don't know the cycle of failed parts like we do because they are dumping their cars well before 50 or 75k.

I need more coffee.

[nextelbuddy]

What's a good price for a used but in good condition M3 gauge cluster? I'm seriously considering going that route.

If you get the matching LCM for the cluster then You won't have a tamper dot next to mileage. I have an older cluster in my car 2001 m3 cluster and it works just had to run a separate wire from the LCM to the cluster plug to make sure it back lit correctly with the parking lights.

I'll have a parts car soon 2003 m3 with a cluster that has 136k miles. Probably sell it for $150 or $200 with the matching LCM.
Of you have someone selling both for 160 then that's a good deal and you should consider it.

[stephenkirsh]

My Miata is 21 years old with 177k on it, and most of the plastic and rubber parts are in better condition than the ZHP. Both cars are CA-only cars.

It's just really frustrating when so many rubber plastic parts fail on these cars. I mean... it's the friggen headlight rubber trim; just use something that'll last a long time!!!

[ELCID86]

My Miata is 21 years old with 177k on it, and most of the plastic and rubber parts are in better condition than the ZHP. Both cars are CA-only cars.

It's just really frustrating when so many rubber plastic parts fail on these cars. I mean... it's the friggen headlight rubber trim; just use something that'll last a long time!!!

You are crossing into dangerous territory (along with me ;).

[stephenkirsh]

What is? The vehicle age?

[san]

Are these the only 2 parts I need to replace the fuel pump?

Fuel pump - VDO - 16146766942

BMW fuel tank sending unit o-ring - 16111184084

Thanks!


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[Vas]

Are these the only 2 parts I need to replace the fuel pump?

Fuel pump - VDO - 16146766942

BMW fuel tank sending unit o-ring - 16111184084

Thanks!


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You will need a new hose clamp since the factory one is a one time use. A regular small worm clamp will work.

[san]

You will need a new hose clamp since the factory one is a one time use. A regular small worm clamp will work.

Thanks Vas!


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[az3579]

You will need a new hose clamp since the factory one is a one time use. A regular small worm clamp will work.


If you're careful enough, it can be re-used in a pinch. I wouldn't recommend it though. :)

[BMWCurves]

Also, might consider an M3 fuel baffle as well while you're in there. Cheap and easy enough to be put in (I'm told).

[theothersawyer]

My Miata is 21 years old with 177k on it, and most of the plastic and rubber parts are in better condition than the ZHP. Both cars are CA-only cars.

It's just really frustrating when so many rubber plastic parts fail on these cars. I mean... it's the friggen headlight rubber trim; just use something that'll last a long time!!!

SAME! Except my Miata is 22 years old with 223k miles!

[johnrando]

Yup, M3 baffle is easy.

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[GotZHP]

Where is a good place to get clear corners? I have two set of yellow corners, one trimmed in silver and one in black, that I plan on selling, along with the headlight washer units, to fund this purchase. just need to know who people have sourced their's from

[az3579]

Where is a good place to get clear corners? I have two set of yellow corners, one trimmed in silver and one in black, that I plan on selling, along with the headlight washer units, to fund this purchase. just need to know who people have sourced their's from

ECS Tuning has them.
Here's a link to the Genuine BMW kit:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/white-turn-signal-marker-light-kit/63130141567/

Depos are cheaper but in my experience, Depo makes garbage products for BMW (been through my fair share, having to replace them)... they're not THAT much cheaper either, so it's worth the extra few bucks for OE ones.

[anandoc]

Depos are cheaper but in my experience, Depo makes garbage products for BMW (been through my fair share, having to replace them)... they're not THAT much cheaper either, so it's worth the extra few bucks for OE ones.

Agreed! If I could go back in time, I would have bought these instead of the crappy DEPOs.

[danewilson77]

ECS Tuning has them.
Here's a link to the Genuine BMW kit:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/white-turn-signal-marker-light-kit/63130141567/

Depos are cheaper but in my experience, Depo makes garbage products for BMW (been through my fair share, having to replace them)... they're not THAT much cheaper either, so it's worth the extra few bucks for OE ones.
Got mine here :

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW-E46/c-56-bmw-clear-euro-parking-lights-clear-euro-tail-lights

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[das boots]

+1. That's also where I got my clear turn signals.

[stephenkirsh]

SAME! Except my Miata is 22 years old with 223k miles!

Looks like I have some catching up to do in the next year!

[TheFinanceGuy]

What is anyone using for an in-car phone mount? I can't seem to find a single thread about this (I can find many threads that have phone mounts, but not a single thread with feedback on many phone mounts).

[BMWCurves]

What is anyone using for an in-car phone mount? I can't seem to find a single thread about this (I can find many threads that have phone mounts, but not a single thread with feedback on many phone mounts).

I have a Bimmian cell phone bracket (Link (https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-BMW/Lifestyle-and-Convenience/Organization-and-Storage/Mobile-Dash-Mount/)) and a ProClip cell phone mount attached to that using four bolts purchased from a hardware store and spray painted black. I love the setup, it's very good. Some people have complained that the Bimmian mount won't sit flush underneath the trim so it pushes the trim out. I had that to a small extent but found I could rotate the mount enough to get it all to seat correctly. The ProClip I was initially very happy with but after about 3 months it started rattling and I have not been able to isolate the rattle for the life of me. It's not a terrible rattle, it's only over rough roads, but still annoying. Overall I like the setup very well. I have the audio aux installed in the back left area of the cup holder. It doesn't get in the way of the shifter and I can hand the wire to the back seat if people there want to listen to music.

EDIT: You can get a better idea visually in my project thread here (just scroll down through the post a bit): http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=464711#post464711

[TheFinanceGuy]

I have a Bimmian cell phone bracket (Link (https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-BMW/Lifestyle-and-Convenience/Organization-and-Storage/Mobile-Dash-Mount/)) and a ProClip cell phone mount attached to that using four bolts purchased from a hardware store and spray painted black. I love the setup, it's very good. Some people have complained that the Bimmian mount won't sit flush underneath the trim so it pushes the trim out. I had that to a small extent but found I could rotate the mount enough to get it all to seat correctly. The ProClip I was initially very happy with but after about 3 months it started rattling and I have not been able to isolate the rattle for the life of me. It's not a terrible rattle, it's only over rough roads, but still annoying. Overall I like the setup very well. I have the audio aux installed in the back left area of the cup holder. It doesn't get in the way of the shifter and I can hand the wire to the back seat if people there want to listen to music.

EDIT: You can get a better idea visually in my project thread here (just scroll down through the post a bit): http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=464711#post464711

Thanks! I actually have a Bimmian phone bracket.

Think I'm going to try the wiz gear mag mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012EI4J3O/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[anandoc]

Similar to William, I am using a Bimmian mount with this:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00SZHIEVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Bimmian mount gave me no issues in terms of trim items not sitting flush. Love my setup!

[fw_fw]

FYI: The Bimmian phone mount is actually made by Panavise and sold at other vendors such as Amazon.

[hcbeck2689]

I have a kenu airframe and I like it a lot. My dad loves his I bought for him as well. I only have one issue with it, when I need to pull my phone close to read something (that I probably shouldn't be reading while driving anyways) it is a pain to take off and on. I end up just pulling the whole thing out with the phone still attached, but when I drive in the dark it's hard to put it back on the vent. I just got some magnetic vent mounts in the mail yesterday that I am curious to see how I like them. I think if will be a good twist on the kenu.

Kenu Airframe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D901B4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bKXryb62ND8N3

Car Mount, TechMatte MagGriphttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXWKE6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yLXrybS8HPRQF
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/4fa7289c19b3eebb033f789231cf2b87.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161206/e3856d4f0e7251438e9223f374f3d488.jpg
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[az3579]

What is anyone using for an in-car phone mount? I can't seem to find a single thread about this (I can find many threads that have phone mounts, but not a single thread with feedback on many phone mounts).
The Wizgear magnetic phone mount that I use with my Bimmian bracket is by far the best phone mount combination I've ever used. I'll never look back!

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[johnrando]

I use the Bimmian with the wide clip they sell.

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[danewilson77]

What is anyone using for an in-car phone mount? I can't seem to find a single thread about this (I can find many threads that have phone mounts, but not a single thread with feedback on many phone mounts).
This:

https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-BMW/Lifestyle-and-Convenience/Organization-and-Storage/Mobile-Dash-Mount/

+

This:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019XRWZOE/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481066498&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Sent by the Pixel XL

[TheFinanceGuy]

This:

https://bimmian.com/Accessories-for-BMW/Lifestyle-and-Convenience/Organization-and-Storage/Mobile-Dash-Mount/

+

This:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019XRWZOE/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481066498&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Sent by the Pixel XL

This is close to what I going to try. I am going to pair my bimmian mount with a Wizgear mag mount.

[TheFinanceGuy]

MTL-90 or just MTL

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1144-red-line-mt90-manual-transmission-fluidoil/

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3426-red-line-mtl-manual-transmission-fluidoil/

I haz 6sp manual. No auto here.

[san]

I went with MTL


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[Vas]

MTL-90 or just MTL

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1144-red-line-mt90-manual-transmission-fluidoil/

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3426-red-line-mtl-manual-transmission-fluidoil/

I haz 6sp manual. No auto here.

Both would work.

The viscosity on the MT90 is higher so if you have gearbox noise in neutral, go with that.

Also I wold replace the 2 plugs. ECStuning has a kit with oil and plugs FYI

[TheFinanceGuy]

Both would work.

The viscosity on the MT90 is higher so if you have gearbox noise in neutral, go with that.

Also I wold replace the 2 plugs. ECStuning has a kit with oil and plugs FYI

Was just checking those out. I like the idea of replacing the plugs, though last time I changed the trans oil, both plugs looked fine.

[John in VA]

I thought we were using Red Line D4 AFT in our manual transmissions:

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=7
Our most versatile ATF, use where Dexron III®, Dexron II®, Mercon® and Mercon V® fluids are recommended, provides a GL-4 level of gear protection
Popular applications: Toyota Type T-III and T-IV, Honda ATF-Z1, NissanMatic D, J & K, Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Mazda ATF M-V, most BMW, Audi, VW automatic transmissions
Also used with manual transmissions and transaxles like T-5, T-45, T-56 and late-model BMW
Excellent cold weather operation

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3604-red-line-synthetic-d4-atf/
ATF D4 is similar to Red Line's MTL formula and can be used in many BMW manual transmissions where MTF or MTF-LT2 is called for.

[BMWCurves]

Will Style 45 16x7" wheels fit over the stock brakes on our cars?

[holyc0w]

That might be a tad small overall for the ZHP. My Contour replicas (AT Italia Type 5 16x7.5 et38) fit pretty tightly. The tire place had to redo the wheel weights with slimmer ones to clear the brakes.

I think they might fit, but I saw someone on the interwebs posting that they don't. I don't know what would make them not fit compared to mine. Probably better to go bigger.

[BMWCurves]

That might be a tad small overall for the ZHP. My Contour replicas (AT Italia Type 5 16x7.5 et38) fit pretty tightly. The tire place had to redo the wheel weights with slimmer ones to clear the brakes.

I think they might fit, but I saw someone on the interwebs posting that they don't. I don't know what would make them not fit compared to mine. Probably better to go bigger.

Yeah, we ended up going with some style 137 wheels for my sister's car which are 17x8"

[anandoc]

My low coolant light came on last night for about 30 seconds as I was leaving work. I was like :facepalm

Checked the coolant level this morning and the 'dipstick' was sitting at the very bottom of the expansion tank. Thankfully I had some BMW coolant lying around, which I mixed 50/50 with water and filled up the expansion tank where the top of the dipstick was just below the rim of the expansion tank opening to make sure I do not overfill. I did not see any leaks in the expansion tank.

Question: I monitored the coolant temperature after topping up with coolant while I dropped my wife off. The temperature went up to 92C and stayed there. I was expecting it to go up to 95C-96C. Does this look normal to you folks? Keep in mind, the outside temperature was around -6C.

[az3579]

My low coolant light came on last night for about 30 seconds as I was leaving work. I was like :facepalm

Checked the coolant level this morning and the 'dipstick' was sitting at the very bottom of the expansion tank. Thankfully I had some BMW coolant lying around, which I mixed 50/50 with water and filled up the expansion tank where the top of the dipstick was just below the rim of the expansion tank opening to make sure I do not overfill. I did not see any leaks in the expansion tank.

Question: I monitored the coolant temperature after topping up with coolant while I dropped my wife off. The temperature went up to 92C and stayed there. I was expecting it to go up to 95C-96C. Does this look normal to you folks? Keep in mind, the outside temperature was around -6C.


92 is normal. Temps can fluctuate a few degrees every now and then.

[slater]

My low coolant light came on last night for about 30 seconds as I was leaving work. I was like :facepalm

Checked the coolant level this morning and the 'dipstick' was sitting at the very bottom of the expansion tank. Thankfully I had some BMW coolant lying around, which I mixed 50/50 with water and filled up the expansion tank where the top of the dipstick was just below the rim of the expansion tank opening to make sure I do not overfill. I did not see any leaks in the expansion tank.

do you see anything on the topside of the belly pan?

i've had two weird leaks like that - one was a bad o-ring on the bottom of the expansion tank that only appeared when it got really cold out (the o-ring must shrink just enough), and the other was on a friends' car - the temp sensor o-ring leaked. $2 part in both cases, but still a pain to deal with (the temp sensor o-ring really was not a pain, it took 10min, with minimal coolant loss - the expansion tank on the other hand, i hate that thing). generally anything fluid- and seal-related, i don't like dealing with. because it's always like, "IS it going to seal properly?" blah.

[anandoc]

92 is normal. Temps can fluctuate a few degrees every now and then.

Thanks!


do you see anything on the topside of the belly pan?

i've had two weird leaks like that - one was a bad o-ring on the bottom of the expansion tank that only appeared when it got really cold out (the o-ring must shrink just enough), and the other was on a friends' car - the temp sensor o-ring leaked. $2 part in both cases, but still a pain to deal with (the temp sensor o-ring really was not a pain, it took 10min, with minimal coolant loss - the expansion tank on the other hand, i hate that thing). generally anything fluid- and seal-related, i don't like dealing with. because it's always like, "IS it going to seal properly?" blah.

I will monitor the levels and for any leaks over the next few days. I have a backup expansion tank just in case.

[nextelbuddy]

Did E46 Sedans ever come with factory LED tail lights? I can see that at some point M3 coupes did come with LED Tail lights but i never see any mention of NON M3 coupes or Sedans.

[ZHPizza]

Did E46 Sedans ever come with factory LED tail lights? I can see that at some point M3 coupes did come with LED Tail lights but i never see any mention of NON M3 coupes or Sedans.

Sedans - no. Facelifted coupes got the LED tails that you're seeing on the M3's, though.

My 2005 coupe:

http://i.imgur.com/YT32Gm5.jpg

[das boots]

I did a TL (aftermarket) conversion to LED to my Sedan. Waste of $$$. I shit canned and sold them. They did not look right on a Sedan. So I went the RCR route. They look fantastic on Sedans.

[nextelbuddy]

Sedans - no. Facelifted coupes got the LED tails that you're seeing on the M3's, though.

My 2005 coupe:

http://i.imgur.com/YT32Gm5.jpg

those do look really nice. bummer that sedans didnt get it. weird also.


I did a TL (aftermarket) conversion to LED to my Sedan. Waste of $$$. I shit canned and sold them. They did not look right on a Sedan. So I went the RCR route. They look fantastic on Sedans.


what is the RCR route?

[az3579]

Did E46 Sedans ever come with factory LED tail lights? I can see that at some point M3 coupes did come with LED Tail lights but i never see any mention of NON M3 coupes or Sedans.


I did a TL (aftermarket) conversion to LED to my Sedan. Waste of $$$. I shit canned and sold them. They did not look right on a Sedan. So I went the RCR route. They look fantastic on Sedans.

I did OE RCR tails in mine, with LED bulbs. You get all the functionality and looks without going with the "aftermarket" look. :thumbsup

I put in LED brake light bulbs (red), turn signals front and back (amber), sidemarkers (amber), flash-to-pass H7 LEDs, and have a set of extra bulbs I'm going to put in for the running lights in the back. Love LED lighting while retaining an OE look. :)


what is the RCR route?

RCRs are the euro factory tail lights. Instead of RAR (Red/Amber/Red), the lenses are RCR (Red/Clear/Red), like this:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3903/14850898009_96aa891df3_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oCjJzF)20140825-007 (https://flic.kr/p/oCjJzF) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr

Another shot:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5807/21396626880_c57954ca3c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yAKiJ1)IMG_20150905_190518993 (https://flic.kr/p/yAKiJ1) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr

[nextelbuddy]

sweet, thanks for all of the info!

[Sockethead]

They look really good in Imola.... never noticed before...

[das boots]

I put in LED brake light bulbs (red), turn signals front and back (amber), sidemarkers (amber), flash-to-pass H7 LEDs, and have a set of extra bulbs I'm going to put in for the running lights in the back. Love LED lighting while retaining an OE look. :)



BP. I have LED on Reverse. Where did you purchase the LED Brake, Running and Turn bulbs from?

[ZHPizza]

I do love the RCRs on the sedans. I wish the coupe LEDs were formatted the same way. They look somewhat disjointed between trunk/fender.

http://www.germanspecparts.com/uploads/carparts/big_e46-coupe-m3-csl-style-carbon-fiber-rear-lip-1999-2006_9cc6f4300c07f8b73888ff14376e17b6.jpg

[derbo]

I do love the RCRs on the sedans. I wish the coupe LEDs were formatted the same way. They look somewhat disjointed between trunk/fender.

[img]http://www.germanspecparts.com/uploads/carparts/big_e46-coupe-m3-csl-style-carbon-fiber-rear-lip-1999-2006_9cc6f4300c07f8b73888ff14376e17b6.jpg/img]

I wish BMW made an LED version for the sedan instead of just RCR. The aftermarket RCR LEDs look horrendous.


RCR are sure pretty. :)

http://i.imgur.com/lboa6sWh.jpg

Rear fogs makes it even more fun :D

http://i.imgur.com/uROGGJch.jpg

[az3579]

BP. I have LED on Reverse. Where did you purchase the LED Brake, Running and Turn bulbs from?

The brake and running lights are the same bulb. I bought the brake and turn signal bulbs from eBay.
I keep waiting for a more reputable manufacturer to make proper LED bulbs that come in Red so I can replace my brake and turn bulbs. They interfere with my radio reception whenever they're on, for some reason. But, then again, my rear glass is totally hosed so my reception is dreadful to begin with even with no lights on, so I'm not sure if the issue is isolated to my car or if it's the bulbs - haven't been able to swap with anyone to test.

Good thing I don't listen to my radio at all.

The bulbs are labeled "1156 CANBUS 25W". Those are plenty bright and if they are CANBUS, do not require resistors and do not hyperflash.
The only thing needed is to code out the hot and cold checks so they don't flicker when the car does its bulb tests.

[danewilson77]

I did OE RCR tails in mine, with LED bulbs. You get all the functionality and looks without going with the "aftermarket" look. :thumbsup

I put in LED brake light bulbs (red), turn signals front and back (amber), sidemarkers (amber), flash-to-pass H7 LEDs, and have a set of extra bulbs I'm going to put in for the running lights in the back. Love LED lighting while retaining an OE look. :)



RCRs are the euro factory tail lights. Instead of RAR (Red/Amber/Red), the lenses are RCR (Red/Clear/Red), like this:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3903/14850898009_96aa891df3_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oCjJzF)20140825-007 (https://flic.kr/p/oCjJzF) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr

Another shot:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5807/21396626880_c57954ca3c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yAKiJ1)IMG_20150905_190518993 (https://flic.kr/p/yAKiJ1) by botond.pal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/65070296@N06/), on Flickr

:drooloooooooooooooo

[derbo]

The brake and running lights are the same bulb. I bought the brake and turn signal bulbs from eBay.
I keep waiting for a more reputable manufacturer to make proper LED bulbs that come in Red so I can replace my brake and turn bulbs. They interfere with my radio reception whenever they're on, for some reason. But, then again, my rear glass is totally hosed so my reception is dreadful to begin with even with no lights on, so I'm not sure if the issue is isolated to my car or if it's the bulbs - haven't been able to swap with anyone to test.

Good thing I don't listen to my radio at all.

The bulbs are labeled "1156 CANBUS 25W". Those are plenty bright and if they are CANBUS, do not require resistors and do not hyperflash.
The only thing needed is to code out the hot and cold checks so they don't flicker when the car does its bulb tests.

It's probably because the LED grounds share the same ground as the Radio and causes some ground loops.

[das boots]

The brake and running lights are the same bulb. I bought the brake and turn signal bulbs from eBay.
I keep waiting for a more reputable manufacturer to make proper LED bulbs that come in Red so I can replace my brake and turn bulbs. They interfere with my radio reception whenever they're on, for some reason. But, then again, my rear glass is totally hosed so my reception is dreadful to begin with even with no lights on, so I'm not sure if the issue is isolated to my car or if it's the bulbs - haven't been able to swap with anyone to test.

Good thing I don't listen to my radio at all.

The bulbs are labeled "1156 CANBUS 25W". Those are plenty bright and if they are CANBUS, do not require resistors and do not hyperflash.
The only thing needed is to code out the hot and cold checks so they don't flicker when the car does its bulb tests.


LEDs without built-in resistors would show fault codes. The only one and reputable that I know that have no-fault codes are the ones sold by Bimmian. But man, are they expensive. Hence I stopped after the reverse LED bulb install.....read Funding.

[Dual]

FWIW my '06 coupe had zero canbus issues, presumably because of updates on BMW's side. I don't know what the cutoff date is for this broader compatibility.

[nextelbuddy]

What is the best recommendation for roof racks? low profile if available?

ive read a few threads on here and e46 fanatics but there really isnt a clear answer that i can see so maybe its just subjective?

I like the looks of a nice roof rack on sedans and i also have a bike. currently i have a trunk mounted rack on my altima but would love to get a roof mounted one on the bmw.

i saw a thread I think it was Dane? where he was selling one but it appeared to be custom and was in high demand for some reason?

[derbo]

LEDs without built-in resistors would show fault codes. The only one and reputable that I know that have no-fault codes are the ones sold by Bimmian. But man, are they expensive. Hence I stopped after the reverse LED bulb install.....read Funding.

Disabling Cold and Warm checks would solve this issue.

[az3579]

It's probably because the LED grounds share the same ground as the Radio and causes some ground loops.

If that's the case, then I have this static problem because my rear glass is hosed. I have the infamous poor reception issue, which is caused by a short in the rear glass that affects the antenna. The dead giveaway is that my radio turns to nothing but static when I turn the rear defroster on.


LEDs without built-in resistors would show fault codes. The only one and reputable that I know that have no-fault codes are the ones sold by Bimmian. But man, are they expensive. Hence I stopped after the reverse LED bulb install.....read Funding.

Bimmian's stuff is obscenely overpriced. The things they sell are for the most part the same stuff you can get on eBay.
Any LED bulb labeled as CANBUS will do the trick; these have built in circuitry to make them compatible with the CANBUS system our cars use. I found the best bulbs are the ones that have CREE chips in them. Mine have CREE chips, and are labeled as 25W (which are plenty bright even in direct sunlight), and are CANBUS bulbs, so all I needed to do was plop them in the bulb carrier (no extra load resistors, all built in) and do the coding.


Disabling Cold and Warm checks would solve this issue.

Disabling the cold/warm checks doesn't do anything for you other than disable the flickering the bulb checks cause. If you don't have the proper CANBUS bulbs, or bulbs with load resistors, then you will still get the bulb out errors and the hyperflash. With the hot/cold checks disabled, all you're doing is taking away the ability for the car to tell you a bulb is out before you go to use it. In this disabled state, they will still throw a bulb out error if you take the bulb out, or if the bulb isn't functioning, but you'll only get that notification when the car attempts to illuminate the bulb.

The full method of doing this involves CANBUS bulbs as well as doing the hot/cold check coding.

[derbo]

What is the best recommendation for roof racks? low profile if available?

ive read a few threads on here and e46 fanatics but there really isnt a clear answer that i can see so maybe its just subjective?

I like the looks of a nice roof rack on sedans and i also have a bike. currently i have a trunk mounted rack on my altima but would love to get a roof mounted one on the bmw.

i saw a thread I think it was Dane? where he was selling one but it appeared to be custom and was in high demand for some reason?


I have an OEM one (that sits in my shed now..)

Here is an older pic of it.

http://i.imgur.com/UP2C80Sh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6xZLKq2h.jpg

[derbo]

If that's the case, then I have this static problem because my rear glass is hosed. I have the infamous poor reception issue, which is caused by a short in the rear glass that affects the antenna. The dead giveaway is that my radio turns to nothing but static when I turn the rear defroster on.



Bimmian's stuff is obscenely overpriced. The things they sell are for the most part the same stuff you can get on eBay.
Any LED bulb labeled as CANBUS will do the trick; these have built in circuitry to make them compatible with the CANBUS system our cars use. I found the best bulbs are the ones that have CREE chips in them. Mine have CREE chips, and are labeled as 25W (which are plenty bright even in direct sunlight), and are CANBUS bulbs, so all I needed to do was plop them in the bulb carrier (no extra load resistors, all built in) and do the coding.



Disabling the cold/warm checks doesn't do anything for you other than disable the flickering the bulb checks cause. If you don't have the proper CANBUS bulbs, or bulbs with load resistors, then you will still get the bulb out errors and the hyperflash. With the hot/cold checks disabled, all you're doing is taking away the ability for the car to tell you a bulb is out before you go to use it. In this disabled state, they will still throw a bulb out error if you take the bulb out, or if the bulb isn't functioning, but you'll only get that notification when the car attempts to illuminate the bulb.

The full method of doing this involves CANBUS bulbs as well as doing the hot/cold check coding.

Brain Fart. My bad. :)

[wstr75]

I have an OEM one (that sits in my shed now..)

Here is an older pic of it.

http://i.imgur.com/UP2C80Sh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6xZLKq2h.jpg

Nice looking photos! Love the action in the top photo and the juxtapositioning against the neighborhood in the second. Good looking car, too.

[das boots]

Bimmian's stuff is obscenely overpriced. The things they sell are for the most part the same stuff you can get on eBay.
Any LED bulb labeled as CANBUS will do the trick; these have built in circuitry to make them compatible with the CANBUS system our cars use. I found the best bulbs are the ones that have CREE chips in them. Mine have CREE chips, and are labeled as 25W (which are plenty bright even in direct sunlight), and are CANBUS bulbs, so all I needed to do was plop them in the bulb carrier (no extra load resistors, all built in) and do the coding.

The full method of doing this involves CANBUS bulbs as well as doing the hot/cold check coding.


Going through eBay now. Turn signals would require the Clear CANBUS? I don't intend to install Amber bulbs.

Please explain the hot/cold check coding after install of the CANBUS. I never did any coding or notice anything unusual in the cluster when I installed the Reverse LED.

[az3579]

Going through eBay now. Turn signals would require the Clear CANBUS? I don't intend to install Amber bulbs.

If I may make a recommendation, I would advise against white LEDs for turn signals simply for the fact that they would be incredibly blinding to other people at night. Also, I recommend red LED bulbs for any parts of the lights that have a red lense. This way, the color will remain true red and not the pinkish color you get from having white bulbs behind red lenses.



Please explain the hot/cold check coding after install of the CANBUS. I never did any coding or notice anything unusual in the cluster when I installed the Reverse LED.

The CANBUS system utilizes a series of bulb checks to check for bulb functionality. Cold checking occurs when you first turn the ignition on. The LCM sends small pulses of electricity to the bulbs to verify that they are there and functioning. If it detects any bulbs that don't meet its parameters, it will trigger a bulb-out warning on your cluster.

Hot checks occur periodically while the car is in operation. Its purpose is the same, which is to notify you of failed bulbs.

These electricity pulses happen very quickly, and because our cars have incandescent bulbs from the factory, they will never actually illuminate when these checks occur due to the very long time it takes for the bulbs to warm up enough to illuminate the bulb. With LED bulbs, the response is immediate since they are instant on/off bulbs. What that means is that when the hot/cold checks are occurring, you'll see the LED bulbs flicker a few times as the pulses are being sent.

Coding the hot/cold checks to be disabled prevents the LED bulbs from flickering. What does that mean for you? Well, you'll lose the advance notice of a failed bulb, and instead will only get the bulb out notification when the bulb actually fails. In theory, you could start your car, drive down the street and go to use your turn signals, for example, only to find that one of them isn't working, at which point the bulb failure light will illuminate and the indicator will blink rapidly.

Since my LEDs have been working flawlessly for the few years I've had them and have not experienced a failure, I can't comment on how an actual failure presents itself. I have, however, tested this by pulling random bulbs with the car parked and then activating them to see how the instrument cluster displays a failure. So far, these tests have proved that the system still does its job and notifies of failures, just not with advance warning.

Hot/cold check coding can be done with NCS Expert. I don't know if PA Soft does it because I rarely ever use it for anything, but I'm sure it would have basic functionality such as that type of coding.

[das boots]

If I may make a recommendation, I would advise against white LEDs for turn signals simply for the fact that they would be incredibly blinding to other people at night. Also, I recommend red LED bulbs for any parts of the lights that have a red lense. This way, the color will remain true red and not the pinkish color you get from having white bulbs behind red lenses.



The CANBUS system utilizes a series of bulb checks to check for bulb functionality. Cold checking occurs when you first turn the ignition on. The LCM sends small pulses of electricity to the bulbs to verify that they are there and functioning. If it detects any bulbs that don't meet its parameters, it will trigger a bulb-out warning on your cluster.

Hot checks occur periodically while the car is in operation. Its purpose is the same, which is to notify you of failed bulbs.

These electricity pulses happen very quickly, and because our cars have incandescent bulbs from the factory, they will never actually illuminate when these checks occur due to the very long time it takes for the bulbs to warm up enough to illuminate the bulb. With LED bulbs, the response is immediate since they are instant on/off bulbs. What that means is that when the hot/cold checks are occurring, you'll see the LED bulbs flicker a few times as the pulses are being sent.

Coding the hot/cold checks to be disabled prevents the LED bulbs from flickering. What does that mean for you? Well, you'll lose the advance notice of a failed bulb, and instead will only get the bulb out notification when the bulb actually fails. In theory, you could start your car, drive down the street and go to use your turn signals, for example, only to find that one of them isn't working, at which point the bulb failure light will illuminate and the indicator will blink rapidly.

Since my LEDs have been working flawlessly for the few years I've had them and have not experienced a failure, I can't comment on how an actual failure presents itself. I have, however, tested this by pulling random bulbs with the car parked and then activating them to see how the instrument cluster displays a failure. So far, these tests have proved that the system still does its job and notifies of failures, just not with advance warning.

Hot/cold check coding can be done with NCS Expert. I don't know if PA Soft does it because I rarely ever use it for anything, but I'm sure it would have basic functionality such as that type of coding.

Thanks. I agree the Brake and Running lights should remain Red. I just might decide to continue the incandescent bulbs for the rear turn signals.

[anandoc]

I don't know if PA Soft does it because I rarely ever use it for anything, but I'm sure it would have basic functionality such as that type of coding.

Yup, you can enable/disable hot/cold checks in PA Soft

http://i.imgur.com/mvBcN.jpg

[derbo]

Nice looking photos! Love the action in the top photo and the juxtapositioning against the neighborhood in the second. Good looking car, too.

7 years ago lol.

[NYRhockey]

When a car has smoked lights are these removable or do you have to buy the whole unit(s)? there's a local zhp i'm sort of interested in but it has smoked tail lights, corner lights and side markers which i would want gone asap.

[John in VA]

When a car has smoked lights are these removable or do you have to buy the whole unit(s)? there's a local zhp i'm sort of interested in but it has smoked tail lights, corner lights and side markers which i would want gone asap.

Depends on how they were smoked - homemade using a film tint or spray tint, vs. replacement units made with smoked plastic.

[derbo]

When a car has smoked lights are these removable or do you have to buy the whole unit(s)? there's a local zhp i'm sort of interested in but it has smoked tail lights, corner lights and side markers which i would want gone asap.

You can always buy amber lights from someone. They are pretty cheap in the classifieds.

[NYRhockey]

Depends on how they were smoked - homemade using a film tint or spray tint, vs. replacement units made with smoked plastic.

Thanks for the feedback, i guess only way to know would be to ask the seller


You can always buy amber lights from someone. They are pretty cheap in the classifieds.

Good idea, though if i had to change the tail lights i'd go for the clear ones. They look awesome on zhp's, imo

[az3579]

When a car has smoked lights are these removable or do you have to buy the whole unit(s)? there's a local zhp i'm sort of interested in but it has smoked tail lights, corner lights and side markers which i would want gone asap.


Is this an Imola Red sedan with Grey interior, 6MT? If so, I know the guy. :)
I have a full set of stock amber lights, if you're interested in them. We're not far from each other.

[NYRhockey]

Is this an Imola Red sedan with Grey interior, 6MT? If so, I know the guy. :)
I have a full set of stock amber lights, if you're interested in them. We're not far from each other.

Yes, it is :) Saw it on bmwcca but there is no mention of maintenance and at 101K the price is too high @ $12K, so it'd have to come down considerably for me to go for it. How do you know the guy? do you know how well he takes care of the car? it does look nice in pictures.

And thanks for the offer, if i end up with it i will take you on it

[NYRhockey]

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/689670407/overview/

also looking at this one and have exchanged a couple of emails with the seller. He claims to have bought it on impulse as he was wanting a M3 and could not find one but now does so is selling the zhp.

[az3579]

Yes, it is :) Saw it on bmwcca but there is no mention of maintenance and at 101K the price is too high @ $12K, so it'd have to come down considerably for me to go for it. How do you know the guy? do you know how well he takes care of the car? it does look nice in pictures.

And thanks for the offer, if i end up with it i will take you on it

I've interacted with him many times throughout my years in the local BMW CCA chapter. He's an instructor as well for our HPDE's, and he does (or did) drive the car on track numerous times, just FYI.

I'm not intimately familiar with his car's history. I do know he's had it for a few years, and tried selling it a couple of years ago as well. From what I remember, it's in pretty good overall shape. I just send him an email asking for the maintenance history.

[NYRhockey]

Thanks for the feedback. That it was tracked does make me a bit uneasy, especially at that price but i imagine a PPI would alleviate concerns.

[az3579]

Thanks for the feedback. That it was tracked does make me a bit uneasy, especially at that price but i imagine a PPI would alleviate concerns.

There are a couple of things to consider:
1) He's an instructor - he knows his stuff. One thing that comes with this level of experience is the knowledge that a car that is regularly tracked needs a higher level of maintenance.
2) A car that is tracked but is properly maintained is just as reliable, or in some cases, more reliable than a standard street car, given its stricter maintenance regimen. Of course, this is assuming the owner kept up with it like he should have...

[NYRhockey]

Fair and valid points. To make sure i understood your previous post, did you say you had emailed him for maintenance records or that i should

[az3579]

Fair and valid points. To make sure i understood your previous post, did you say you had emailed him for maintenance records or that i should

I have emailed him. I'll let you know if he responds.

[stephenkirsh]

Think I need a new fan?

If so, should I go OEM? Or is a 3rd party febj/uro/vaico from ECS Tuning sufficient?

Or.... I've heard recommendations to replace the mechanical fan with the electrical fan from the manual trans cars.


28641

[anandoc]

Think I need a new fan?

If so, should I go OEM? Or is a 3rd party febj/uro/vaico from ECS Tuning sufficient?

Or.... I've heard recommendations to replace the mechanical fan with the electrical fan from the manual trans cars.



If you want to stick with the mechanical fan, you would need part 11521712058. $60 for Genuine BMW or $30 for Febi (Febi is owned by Bilstein) from FCP Euro.

Ofcourse, the best recourse would be to replace it with a electric fan from the manual E46s. $184 for the Mahle puller fan from partsgeek:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/bmw/330i/cooling_system/radiator_fan_assembly.html

[das boots]

Never even thought of putting a puller fan when I did my radiator/coolant/hose refresh 4 years ago. Although I don't know if they were in the market around then......

[anandoc]

Although I don't know if they were in the market around then......

They come stock in the manual E46 cars. So they have been around for a while...

[stephenkirsh]

Yea it's an OEM part, so been around since the car has :)


I placed an order from PartsGeek. Never heard of them... we'll see how it goes.

[anandoc]

I placed an order from PartsGeek. Never heard of them... we'll see how it goes.

Goodluck! Let me know how it goes with PartsGeek. I might do this in the summer.

[anandoc]

Coding question: Is it possible to code our tail lamps to be on at all time? i.e. day time running rear lights? I searched for a bit but could not find anything. If it is possible, what is the NCS Expert keyword that I am looking for? Thanks.

[das boots]

They come stock in the manual E46 cars. So they have been around for a while...

I guess I just never did notice them before being mounted on the radiator.

[az3579]

Coding question: Is it possible to code our tail lamps to be on at all time? i.e. day time running rear lights? I searched for a bit but could not find anything. If it is possible, what is the NCS Expert keyword that I am looking for? Thanks.

Yes. You need an LCM that's version 4 or higher.

The option is:

FL_DRL_MIT_RL -> aktiv



I use it myself, and love this feature.

[anandoc]

Yes. You need an LCM that's version 4 or higher.

The option is:

FL_DRL_MIT_RL -> aktiv



I use it myself, and love this feature.

This option and triple blink are both dependant on LCM version 4.0 or higher? Damn, really makes me want to get an LCM with 4.0

[az3579]

This option and triple blink are both dependant on LCM version 4.0 or higher? Damn, really makes me want to get an LCM with 4.0

Might as well. :)

[MrAdventure]

I had to remove my black cube trim recently, so I could remove the head unit. I managed to crack the plastic bit that one of the metal post slides in to (well, it's the one around the head unit, so I guess it's the only post for that piece). I ended up crazy gluing it back together, and it would hold the post again. However, I had to remove the trim again, and this time, the post stuck in the hole, and I broke the backing off entirely.

Is there any sort of permanent fix, besides replacing the cube trim entirely? OR COURSE, this was the only piece of trim that didn't have a scratch or a gouge on it, so I'm not super upset...

[NYRhockey]

Looking at this zhp and seller says it has the premium package (it's a different zhp from the one on the off-topic page). Is it true? unable to tell from the build sheet

last 7 of VIN are KM06798

[az3579]

Looking at this zhp and seller says it has the premium package (it's a different zhp from the one on the off-topic page). Is it true? unable to tell from the build sheet

last 7 of VIN are KM06798

That VIN does not show Premium Package as being an installed option.

[NYRhockey]

That's what i thought. In the ad the seller states it has the premium package and includes upgraded leather seating, power/memory seats (which i believe is standard), garage door opener and auto dim mirrors. From the pictures in the ad cannot tell whether it has the garage door opener which would be an easily-recognizable feature if it had the premium package.

[holyc0w]

Memory/power seats are standard on the ZHP and I believe the garage door opener is as well. Autodim mirror could have been retrofitted.

[az3579]

That's what i thought. In the ad the seller states it has the premium package and includes upgraded leather seating, power/memory seats (which i believe is standard), garage door opener and auto dim mirrors. From the pictures in the ad cannot tell whether it has the garage door opener which would be an easily-recognizable feature if it had the premium package.

Leather seating itself doesn't necessary mean premium package. They were available as a standalone option.
An undeniable telltale of premium package is lumbar support. You could not order that separately from the premium package.
Look for the circular switch at the frontmost position in the electric seat switch cluster. Both front seats will have it.

[Hermes]

I don't think I've ever specifically seen "premium package" listed on a build sheet

To give you guys an example, look at the buildsheet of my red car:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c288/jhermes/PL17341.jpg

I have every part of the premium package except the myrtle wood trim, yet it's still not listed

[az3579]

I don't think I've ever specifically seen "premium package" listed on a build sheet


Yeah, that's why I told him to look for lumbar. That's a dead giveaway.

[NYRhockey]

Thanks guys. If we go forward with the sale I'll adk for additional pics of the drivers seat to confirm premium package or not.

[fredo]

Has anyone used bmwvin.com recently ? I tried yesterday and today, keep getting an error about invalid database or system down. :dunno

[fw_fw]

Has anyone used bmwvin.com recently ? I tried yesterday and today, keep getting an error about invalid database or system down. :dunno

bimmer.work is up......

[fredo]

Thanks ! :thumbsup

[holyc0w]

Bmwvin works fine for me.

[stephenkirsh]

That's what i thought. In the ad the seller states it has the premium package and includes upgraded leather seating, power/memory seats (which i believe is standard), garage door opener and auto dim mirrors. From the pictures in the ad cannot tell whether it has the garage door opener which would be an easily-recognizable feature if it had the premium package.

My ZHP does not have garage door opener.

[Dual]

Mine (2006 coupe) had the premium package but garage door openers weren't included.

28761

[BMWCurves]

Mine (2006 coupe) had the premium package but garage door openers weren't included.

28761

Same with my father's '06 coupe.

[holyc0w]

I have a 2004 sedan with about the only major option being heated seats. I have the homelink buttons by the sunroof switch. :confused This seems pretty weird.

[roadbiker_2]

Regarding that mechanical fan replacement, is there a wiring connection there that allows it to be hooked up and are all of the relays and everything included with the part number shown above? Any coding changes? I have a MT and AT ZHP so I could look at the MT if needed. This should make the car quieter on the highway I would think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Mine (2006 coupe) had the premium package but garage door openers weren't included.

28761
I don't have it either. I have premium package.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[anandoc]

Regarding that mechanical fan replacement, is there a wiring connection there that allows it to be hooked up and are all of the relays and everything included with the part number shown above? Any coding changes? I have a MT and AT ZHP so I could look at the MT if needed. This should make the car quieter on the highway I would think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you referring to a Mechanical Fan to Electric fan conversion? Here are two comprehensive DIYs that should help you out:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=884299

http://e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849735

[roadbiker_2]

Yes, that should answer everything. The thermostatic fan clutch needs replacement, I might as well look at doing this instead.


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[az3579]

I don't have it either. I have premium package.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


You don't have leather seats, which premium package includes.

[NYRhockey]

Went to check out coby wheel and when i try to go on the site it says account is suspended....what the deuce?

[danewilson77]

You don't have leather seats, which premium package includes.
Right. And lumbar w/ heat.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Right. And lumbar w/ heat.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Tellin' ya... your situation is a fluke. It definitely isn't normal for the alcantara seats to have the lumbar because it wasn't offered as such.

[danewilson77]

Tellin' ya... your situation is a fluke. It definitely isn't normal for the alcantara seats to have the lumbar because it wasn't offered as such.
1 of 1!

I win!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[BMWCurves]

Went to check out coby wheel and when i try to go on the site it says account is suspended....what the deuce?

Strange. I have the same issue.

[ZHPizza]

Strange. I have the same issue.
We saw that this morning. Maybe someone forgot to pay the web hosting bill?

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

[slater]

We saw that this morning. Maybe someone forgot to pay the web hosting bill?

LOL... are you ordering one, nathan? ;)

[ZHPizza]

LOL... are you ordering one, nathan? ;)
Man I was definitely thinking about it after a few hours behind the wheel of the blue car. Wanted to check pricing to see if I could rationalize it (uhh a better grip on the wheel is a safety improvement?).

Not going to bother with it right now, though. I need to focus on a catch can system and doing whatever I can with the suspension to make red car drive like blue car.

[slater]

Man I was definitely thinking about it after a few hours behind the wheel of the blue car. Wanted to check pricing to see if I could rationalize it (uhh a better grip on the wheel is a safety improvement?).

Not going to bother with it right now, though. I need to focus on a catch can system and doing whatever I can with the suspension to make red car drive like blue car.

it IS a safety thing! ;)

PM incoming...

[stephenkirsh]

Regarding that mechanical fan replacement, is there a wiring connection there that allows it to be hooked up and are all of the relays and everything included with the part number shown above? Any coding changes? I have a MT and AT ZHP so I could look at the MT if needed. This should make the car quieter on the highway I would think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did this two weeks ago. Plug and play. No coding or anything to change. Took me 15 min start to finish.