The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[BMWCurves]

I'm working on swapping out my pads and rotors. Anyone have any advice on a seized rotor? I've got the retaining screw out, but for the life of me I cannot get the rotor to come off the hub. I've been banging away on the back of the rotor on the part that's not covered by the dust shield, but no luck.

EDIT: Tried hitting at the 12 then 6 then 3 then 9 o'clock positions several times in that order, no luck.

EDIT 2: Got the f*cker!

[az3579]

I'm working on swapping out my pads and rotors. Anyone have any advice on a seized rotor? I've got the retaining screw out, but for the life of me I cannot get the rotor to come off the hub. I've been banging away on the back of the rotor on the part that's not covered by the dust shield, but no luck.

EDIT: Tried hitting at the 12 then 6 then 3 then 9 o'clock positions several times in that order, no luck.

You need a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer). Whenever I have trouble with one, I use a 4lb hammer, with a hard thwack on it to loosen it. Can't be shy; give it a nice hard hit.

[anandoc]

You need a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer). Whenever I have trouble with one, I use a 4lb hammer, with a VERY hard thwack on it to loosen it. Can't be shy; give it a nice hard hit.

+1

We had the same issue trying to replace Ayan's (orange260z) rotors last summer. Eventually when we got the sledgehammer out, it did the job with a few thwaks!

[mynamenumber]

Any recommendations on the best rondel to buy for front and back? Also might be interested in wheel caps as well, all in black/white color scheme.

My front has a bit of water in it that "squishes" out when pressed, and the rear is separating from the housing a bit, so it seems like time to replace.

[Ssparrow]

Any recommendations on the best rondel to buy for front and back? Also might be interested in wheel caps as well, all in black/white color scheme.

My front has a bit of water in it that "squishes" out when pressed, and the rear is separating from the housing a bit, so it seems like time to replace.

Your best bet is to buy OEM roundels and then get a decal sheet from bav auto. I tried finding black/white roundels for a while and never had any luck.

[UWISHU1]

Previous owner put these brake dust guards on the car. Anyone have any input on if they're bad for ventilation? Seems the little air scoops could be good, but also seems like it could impede air flow too. Thoughts?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1r8wwlpjbtet4p/2015-12-04%2015.44.35.jpg?dl=0

[az3579]

Previous owner put these brake dust guards on the car. Anyone have any input on if they're bad for ventilation? Seems the little air scoops could be good, but also seems like it could impede air flow too. Thoughts?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1r8wwlpjbtet4p/2015-12-04%2015.44.35.jpg?dl=0


Eh... I can imagine the brakes getting pretty toasty with anything above a "slightly enthusiastic" drive.
Judging by the picture, it obviously doesn't work, so I'd rather just clean my wheels. :dunno

[mynamenumber]

They have a "cheap and ugly" look, in my opinion, plus what BP said.

[anandoc]

Previous owner put these brake dust guards on the car. Anyone have any input on if they're bad for ventilation? Seems the little air scoops could be good, but also seems like it could impede air flow too. Thoughts?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1r8wwlpjbtet4p/2015-12-04%2015.44.35.jpg?dl=0

UGH - so ugly. A clean set of calipers & rotors look so nice through the style 135s.

[UWISHU1]

They actually worked pretty well until it rained. lol

When I went to look at the car I just thought to myself, whomever put those on there is not really a car person.

I'm planning on taking them off, but probably be lazy and do it in the spring. Right now I'm just driving and enjoying the car until I get the Subaru sold.

[BMWCurves]

So I finished up my brakes and rotors, but had been planning to paint my calipers. However, brake cleaner and a wire brush hasn't really been able to clean off all the baked in dirt and grime on the calipers, despite several attempts. How clean do the calipers have to be in order to paint them and have the paint last?

[BCS_ZHP]

Before painting calipers, I spent about 5 mins on each caliper - 1 min of spraying with Brake-Kleen and 3 mins with a wire brush followed by a min blowing them off with air. After that, the paint sticks fine. Apply multiple thin coats of paint, 5-6 coats spaced 20-30 mins apart should be fine. When it shines after drying, you're fine, it'll last for years.

[BMWCurves]

Before painting calipers, I spent about 5 mins on each caliper - 1 min of spraying with Brake-Kleen and 3 mins with a wire brush followed by a min blowing them off with air. After that, the paint sticks fine. Apply multiple thin coats of paint, 5-6 coats spaced 20-30 mins apart should be fine. When it shines after drying, you're fine, it'll last for years.

Great, thank you! I think I'll attempt to paint them tomorrow after I try and clean the calipers a little more.

[NickZHP]

Is it possible to remove the bumper mesh from an mtechII without removing the whole bumper.

[Vas]

Is it possible to remove the bumper mesh from an mtechII without removing the whole bumper.
No

[BMWCurves]

Is it possible to remove the bumper mesh from an mtechII without removing the whole bumper.

Some claim it is. See posts 13, 15, 22, and 25: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4697-Wanted-DIY-suggestions-for-lower-grille-rehab/page2

I plan to paint my lower grille today while my car is up on jack stands. I'm just going to tape off the bumper and put some newspaper behind the mesh grille before spray painting with some semi-gloss paint.

[wsmeyer]

It takes less time to remove the bumper than to mask it off

[BMWCurves]

It takes less time to remove the bumper than to mask it off

Really? Looking at ecrabb's coupe bumper removal DIY (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?16673-DIY-M-Tech-II-Coupe-Bumper-Removal-Grille-Refresh-doityourself)), it seems a lot more involved than just taping off the bumper, removing the plastic skid plate, and stuffing some newspaper behind the grille before painting.

[hcbeck2689]

I'm just going to buy a new lower grill for how cheap they are. I'll spray it with a gloss black before install to help preserve it


-Holden

[ELCID86]

Some claim it is. See posts 13, 15, 22, and 25: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?4697-Wanted-DIY-suggestions-for-lower-grille-rehab/page2

I plan to paint my lower grille today while my car is up on jack stands. I'm just going to tape off the bumper and put some newspaper behind the mesh grille before spray painting with some semi-gloss paint.

Should work. Mine was recently painted and is already chipping.


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[mynamenumber]

Oh snap (literally).

22882


I guess I need to increase the urgency of my search for front and rear rondel / emblems. I'm actually not seeing a proper black/white one ANYWHERE. Are they really not available as aftermarket items, or am I not looking in the right place? Maybe I should just take the whole car's look back to blue/white "normal" mode?

The rear looks like it's just about to do the same.

[NickZHP]

Don't most people just buy stickers to put over the blue? http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4790-colored-roundel-emblem-cover-set-hoodtrunkwheelssteering-wheel.aspx

[fredo]

When I bought my Mini Cooper, both emblems (hood and trunk) were peeling. I used stickers and have been very happy with the results. More than 2 years and they still look new.

[mynamenumber]

I'll need to get some sort of new emblems for front and back either way, though. So, sounds like the suggestion is to get a proper OEM rondel for hood and trunk, the the black stickers? The only black/white emblems I see for sale seem to be VERY non-OEM, and often poorly-reviewed (perhaps like the ones on my car currently!).

I'll order Monday :)

[Ssparrow]

Anyone have any experience with Apple CarPlay? I'm really wanting a new deck and I've been looking at a whole lot of different stuff, my question is, anyone have the alpine ilx-700? How do you like it if so? Also if anyone has any suggestions let me know! I'm an iPhone user (iPhone 6) and I NEED Bluetooth music streaming. Thanks guys!

[johnrando]

It was very easy to mask and paint the mesh grill

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[mynamenumber]

Anyone have any experience with Apple CarPlay? I'm really wanting a new deck and I've been looking at a whole lot of different stuff, my question is, anyone have the alpine ilx-700? How do you like it if so? Also if anyone has any suggestions let me know! I'm an iPhone user (iPhone 6) and I NEED Bluetooth music streaming. Thanks guys!


I would also LOVE to hear anyone's experience with any Apply Play product, including whether it sounds good with the existing HK system "as-is," and whether all the steering wheel buttons can be made to work with it.

[ELCID86]

I have not seen many here talk about having anything like that. I use a USB Bluetooth adapter via the Aux Jack. Keep us posted (perhaps in the audio section).


Tumbs, fone, TaT. ;-)

[mynamenumber]

I'd just add that a direct USB connection to any decent, contemporary car radio will generally produce MUCH better sound quality than an AUX input, and might be significantly better audio than any Bluetooth streaming option.

The BT has to degrade, compress, stream, decode, then play, so it's absolutely lossy. AUX uses the DAC of the iPhone, which SHOULD be worse than a stereo's DAC, even in the lower-priced units.

I'm personally leaning towards one of these newer digital-only units (no CD player), just to do a direct USB link and rely on my iPhone's display. In fact, I'm kinda leaning towards getting an iPad mini as the "screen" of a setup like this, and just keep that iPad sync'd / logged in to all my main accounts. Will post updates whenever I pull the trigger on a plan :)

[terraphantm]

I'd just add that a direct USB connection to any decent, contemporary car radio will generally produce MUCH better sound quality than an AUX input, and might be significantly better audio than any Bluetooth streaming option.

The BT has to degrade, compress, stream, decode, then play, so it's absolutely lossy. AUX uses the DAC of the iPhone, which SHOULD be worse than a stereo's DAC, even in the lower-priced units.

I'm personally leaning towards one of these newer digital-only units (no CD player), just to do a direct USB link and rely on my iPhone's display. In fact, I'm kinda leaning towards getting an iPad mini as the "screen" of a setup like this, and just keep that iPad sync'd / logged in to all my main accounts. Will post updates whenever I pull the trigger on a plan :)

To be fair, with how noisy a car's interior gets, the artifacts from lossy compression and/or digital to analog converters are harder to notice.

[UWISHU1]

Differences in compression make a huge difference in any listening environment.

Does anyone know of a thread, or have input, about adding an aftermarket deck to the HK system? It's time I start figuring this out. I installed 12V for years and this factory system is just meh.

[terraphantm]

Differences in compression make a huge difference in any listening environment.

If you say so. I'd bet double blind, the vast majority would have a difficult time discerning the differences between direct digital, aux, and bluetooth when factoring in engine noise, tire noise, and ambient noise.

[az3579]

If you say so. I'd bet double blind, the vast majority would have a difficult time discerning the differences between direct digital, aux, and bluetooth when factoring in engine noise, tire noise, and ambient noise.

This. I stopped noticing a difference once I reached 320kbps, at least with the stock speakers.

[Dr Dynamite]

Random question..... when I go to unlock my car manually, sometimes the beep sound happens and the locks don't unlock, sometimes while sitting in the car I unlock it using the button right next to the hazards and it doesn't unlock. It's weird.... has this happened to anyone else?

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[BMWCurves]

What do you mean "unlock manually," that you put your car key physically in the car door and turn it?

I have never experienced either of those situations, but one distant possibility is your car's battery is going. How old is your current battery?

[wiggle_puppy]

Random question..... when I go to unlock my car manually, sometimes the beep sound happens and the locks don't unlock, sometimes while sitting in the car I unlock it using the button right next to the hazards and it doesn't unlock. It's weird.... has this happened to anyone else?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

This is a shot in the dark, but maybe it's your GM5 module?

https://www.bmwgm5.com/

I have experienced similar things - several doors will remain locked even when I manually turn the key in the lock or use the button on the center console. I found the site above after researching the issue but I have been prioritizing other maintenance.

[Dr Dynamite]

This is a shot in the dark, but maybe it's your GM5 module?

https://www.bmwgm5.com/

I have experienced similar things - several doors will remain locked even when I manually turn the key in the lock or use the button on the center console. I found the site above after researching the issue but I have been prioritizing other maintenance.
I think this is the problem, I'm 99% sure this is it. All the symptoms point to the gm5 module. I didn't see this on that site but my dynavin unit doesnt turn on when I start the car sometimes. Maybe that has something to do with it too.

I honestly thought my alternator or battery were giving out but now that I read info on that link, I'm sure it's the gm5.

Did you have that same issue and did you fix it in anyway?

Thanks for sharing that website man, it will be repaired as soon as I can take the module out and take it to that guy in Torrance, that's like 1 hr away from where I live

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[UWISHU1]

If you say so. I'd bet double blind, the vast majority would have a difficult time discerning the differences between direct digital, aux, and bluetooth when factoring in engine noise, tire noise, and ambient noise.
Respectfully, this isn't me saying so; it's a fact. One of my gripes with younger generations is the decline in appreciation for great sound. Yes, I'd venture it would, indeed, be a majority having difficulty noticing a difference. Me (and plenty of others like me), on the other hand, can absolutely tell the difference in a blind test of compressed vs mostly-uncompressed (CD quality) audio. I'd bet pinks on it.

Now, could I tell the difference between the same file being streamed over a good Bluetooth, auxiliary, or a CD? Only maybe, and probably not.

As far as cabin noise being a factor, yes, that CAN make it harder to appreciate the difference. With that said, though, we're talking about newish BMW's here, not old Hondas. The interior of our cars are actually very quiet. So play a WAV file vs a 128kbps (and sometimes up to 320) inside my ZHP and I'll notice it immediately. I can promise you that. This has a lot to do with my experience with good sound. For so many, you don't know what you're missing. But once you've tasted it done right, car audio included, it's hard to go back :)

[stephenkirsh]

Back in my downloading days, I wouldn't touch a file under 256kbps. The quality difference is very obvious.

And I can tell a significant difference when streaming any audio over Bluetooth.

I think the "problem" with "young people" these days is that everything you buy already comes with speakers. A few decades ago, you wanted speakers on something? You had to buy speakers for it! And there was actually a store in town that offered speakers!

Also, the vast majority of pop music made in the last 20 years is crap :(

[BMWCurves]

Back in my downloading days, I wouldn't touch a file under 256kbps. The quality difference is very obvious.

And I can tell a significant difference when streaming any audio over Bluetooth.

I think the "problem" with "young people" these days is that everything you buy already comes with speakers. A few decades ago, you wanted speakers on something? You had to buy speakers for it! And there was actually a store in town that offered speakers!

Also, the vast majority of pop music made in the last 20 years is crap :(

You take that back, Carly Rae Jepson is a Canadian national treasure!

[mynamenumber]

Yeah, I don't think anyone here is making the snake-oil super-audiophile argument. It is, as UWISHU says, absolutely apparent to some when source quality is degraded. In fact, for me, the only take-away from the audiophile world is that losses in quality early in the system chain will be exasperated down the line. So, if your source (e.g. iPhone AUX vs. digital iPhone out) is less quality, the cables, amps, and speakers will only ADD to the distortion, and CAN NEVER make up for the deficiency. On the other hand, a known optimal source allows you to tweak later components (e.g. individual speakers) to improve the final sound.

Like food or wine, though, some folks will never really care about the diminishing returns of incremental quality increases. Frankly, that's probably better for their sanity.



To my original question, it's interesting to see that the non-CD head units are fairly inexpensive, even with "at least OK" audio quality. I'm interested in potentially installing one of these in my ZHP:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500UTE52BT/Alpine-UTE-52BT.html?tp=5684

or

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X560BT/Pioneer-MVH-X560BT.html?tp=5684

Any thoughts or experience with these or similar units, especially when paired with the stock HK sound system?

[ELCID86]

There is a guy at Crutchfield who upgraded his e46. See if you can reach out to him. One guy there used to have a ZHP too. Might still.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[terraphantm]

Respectfully, this isn't me saying so; it's a fact. One of my gripes with younger generations is the decline in appreciation for great sound. Yes, I'd venture it would, indeed, be a majority having difficulty noticing a difference. Me (and plenty of others like me), on the other hand, can absolutely tell the difference in a blind test of compressed vs mostly-uncompressed (CD quality) audio. I'd bet pinks on it.

Now, could I tell the difference between the same file being streamed over a good Bluetooth, auxiliary, or a CD? Only maybe, and probably not.

As far as cabin noise being a factor, yes, that CAN make it harder to appreciate the difference. With that said, though, we're talking about newish BMW's here, not old Hondas. The interior of our cars are actually very quiet. So play a WAV file vs a 128kbps (and sometimes up to 320) inside my ZHP and I'll notice it immediately. I can promise you that. This has a lot to do with my experience with good sound. For so many, you don't know what you're missing. But once you've tasted it done right, car audio included, it's hard to go back :)

Edit: Never mind, I don't really feel like arguing this. I'll just say I do own plenty of quality audio equipment and my entire collection is stored as lossless. But I maintain that the difference is negligible in an environment like an E46, especially if one is actually paying attention to the road.

[stephenkirsh]

You take that back, Carly Rae Jepson is a Canadian national treasure!

Pft. It's all about Nickelback and justin beiber.

[ecrabb]

OK, so I tried searching for this and couldn't find anything relatively current...

Has anybody installed an illuminated shift knob recently? It looks like there used to be an eBay seller selling them very reasonably, but that was years ago and I don't see anything now.

This all started because I want to do a Coby wheel along with knob/boot and parking brake/boot - all at the same time. Then, I happened onto the illuminated knobs. Sweeeet.

So, looking around, it looked like leatherz was about the only option at $260 ($160 plus add'l $100 because the 6MT backlit insert isn't available separately so he has to buy the $100 knob and cannibalize it.) I found another post that referenced using an F10 M5 knob with boot reattachment, but it looks like those are up on $200 now. Not really caring for the idea of spending $200-250 on a knob just to have it lighted.

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks!

SC

[danewilson77]

OK, so I tried searching for this and couldn't find anything relatively current...

Has anybody installed an illuminated shift knob recently? It looks like there used to be an eBay seller selling them very reasonably, but that was years ago and I don't see anything now.

This all started because I want to do a Coby wheel along with knob/boot and parking brake/boot - all at the same time. Then, I happened onto the illuminated knobs. Sweeeet.

So, looking around, it looked like leatherz was about the only option at $260 ($160 plus add'l $100 because the 6MT backlit insert isn't available separately so he has to buy the $100 knob and cannibalize it.) I found another post that referenced using an F10 M5 knob with boot reattachment, but it looks like those are up on $200 now. Not really caring for the idea of spending $200-250 on a knob just to have it lighted.

Anything I'm missing?

Thanks!

SC
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3287

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[ELCID86]

I installed one last year and recently removed it. I need to determine if I'm selling it... I don't think it was a ZHP knob.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[BMWCurves]

Why did you remove it, didn't like the illumination or it being possibly a non-ZHP knob?

[BCS_ZHP]

Hit up cakM3 for the source for this part. He told my son where to get one last Xmas, yes we ripped off the M5 boot, then replaced with the ZHP boot, and wired it in. Only took 10-15 minutes from start to finish, an easy mod.

[cakM3]

Hit up cakM3 for the source for this part. He told my son where to get one last Xmas, yes we ripped off the M5 boot, then replaced with the ZHP boot, and wired it in. Only took 10-15 minutes from start to finish, an easy mod.

ecrabb, I have a friend who can get this part cheaper than what you have posted if you're interested :thumbsup I just need to confirm before giving you a definite...I should be able to find out by Thursday....

[ecrabb]

ecrabb, I have a friend who can get this part cheaper than what you have posted if you're interested :thumbsup I just need to confirm before giving you a definite...I should be able to find out by Thursday....

<giant Tim Taylor inquisitive sound>

Definitely interested. No big rush. THANKS!

I wonder if I could just send it to Coby along with my wheel and and have him do it all up at the same time with the alcantera.

SC

[BCS_ZHP]

M5 knob and boot are attached, ZHP boot & knob are not attached. Get the M5 boot off of the M5 illuminated knob and then you have 2 separate pieces just like you do today on your ZHP.

[ELCID86]

Why did you remove it, didn't like the illumination or it being possibly a non-ZHP knob?

It was taller than I wanted. I did like the lume.


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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

It was taller than I wanted. I did like the lume.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

Probably the E46 M3 shift knob.

[az3579]

ecrabb, I have a friend who can get this part cheaper than what you have posted if you're interested :thumbsup I just need to confirm before giving you a definite...I should be able to find out by Thursday....


<giant Tim Taylor inquisitive sound>

Definitely interested. No big rush. THANKS!

I wonder if I could just send it to Coby along with my wheel and and have him do it all up at the same time with the alcantera.

SC



BMW of Morristown has this part for $150 +shipping.
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214697&searchText=25112284205

[ZHP_Brandon]

CakM3 I'm interested in some info on that illuminated knob as well!


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[cakM3]

CakM3 I'm interested in some info on that illuminated knob as well!

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Botond was kind enough to post the link.... here it is again :thumbsup

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214697&searchText=25112284205 (http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214697&searchText=25112284205)

[ELCID86]

Probably the E46 M3 shift knob.

Perhaps. I need to pull it out and take pics...

[NickZHP]

Hey guys I need a quick opinion on this, I'm painting my lower mesh black today but was wondering what people thought about putting on the M colors like this (ignore the bad photoshop) http://i.imgur.com/1F1ICwR.jpg?1
Too flashy?

[ELCID86]

I prefer just black.

[Pip]

Just black. Not really flashy but I do prefer the clean look of OEM.

[BMWCurves]

I prefer just black as well. I can't really talk though since I put some ///M stickers on my driver's side upper grille.

[Vas]

Plain black looks great.

[danewilson77]

I like the ///M colors.

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[danewilson77]

I like the black as well.

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[ecrabb]

I like the ///M colors.

I like the black as well.

LOLs. Agreed. Probably lean toward black, but I like the colors, too. I've never seen it before, so that's cool!

SC

[ecrabb]

Oh,and thanks for all the input on the illuminated shift knob too, guys. So, I could order the illuminated knob from the link, order the ///M-color tri-stitch boot from Coby, and put it all together just like if I were ordering a boot from Coby and keeping my knob, yes? So, essentially I'd be forgoing the Coby alcantera knob for the M5 leather knob, paying an extra $50, and getting the illumination in return... That I can see.

SC

[ELCID86]

Probably the E46 M3 shift knob.

This is the one I have.

23206

23207


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

This is the one I have.

23206

23207


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member
M3 style, confirmed.

sent from my Droid Turbo

[ELCID86]

M3 style, confirmed.

sent from my Droid Turbo

Thanks. I may sell it. The bottom connection is still connected... Would need to fetch it or replace the shifter end.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

Thanks. I may sell it. The bottom connection is still connected... Would need to fetch it or replace the shifter end.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member


What do you mean?
I really need the connectors, shifter and vehicle harness end. If you have both, would you be willing to snip and allow me to take it off your hands? :)

[ELCID86]

What do you mean?
I really need the connectors, shifter and vehicle harness end. If you have both, would you be willing to snip and allow me to take it off your hands? :)

Let's talk. Like I said the vehicle spliced in is still under the center console. I think I got it at The Shack.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

Let's talk. Like I said the vehicle spliced in is still under the center console. I think I got it at The Shack.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

Oh, didn't realize you had it installed...

[ELCID86]

Oh, didn't realize you had it installed...

I had it in for 4mo or so.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[ELCID86]

Can someone please verify which way the two "front" differential bushing come out. It appears to me they should pull to the rear and the new ones should be inserted from the rear and pulled towards the front of the car in order to install them.

Perhaps the below pic is installing and pulling to the rear. ??

Reference: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=521636

23221

[Vas]

The picture above is the bushing being installed.

[ELCID86]

The picture above is the bushing being installed.

Thanks for confirming.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[Ssparrow]

So I just installed my wheel spacers and I'm rubbing in the rear but I'm not entirely sure where. From the looks of it, it looks to be the outer bumper clip just barely rubbing. Can I take this off or cut it off? Will my bumper still be secure? Thanks guys

[fredo]

This pic comes from a ZHP with alcantara seats. This door card looks ok to you ? I didn't know they differ from cars with leather seats.

23309

[az3579]

This pic comes from a ZHP with alcantara seats. This door card looks ok to you ? I didn't know they differ from cars with leather seats.

23309


Looks fine to me...
That is the correct door card for the cloth/alcantara interior.

[fredo]

Thanks, BP. I thought the door cards always look the same.

[az3579]

Thanks, BP. I thought the door cards always look the same.

Nope. Every interior color has its down matching door cards.

Cloth/alcantara interior = black door card with cloth insert (pattern matches seat centers)
Black leather = Black door card with Black leather insert
Natural Brown leather = Black door card with Natural Brown leather insert (two-tone)
Grey leather = Grey door card with Grey leather insert (monotonous color)
Sand Beige leather = Sand Beige door card with Sand Beige leather insert

[Ssparrow]

So what's the best fcab you guys suggest? Oem? Poly? I put in meyle HDs about 15k ago and I'm pretty sure they are shot already...

Also plan on doing RTABs as well so I could use a recommendation on those as well. Hopefully that'll fix my bump steer issue...

[BMWCurves]

I can't speak for poly bushings, but I'm enjoying my Z4M FCABs and RTABs that are solid rubber as opposed to our fluid filled ones. The Z4M FCABs increase caster a bit. Slater (Peter) has some sealed spherical RTABs from Bimmerworld or someone that he's loving, last I checked.

[ELCID86]

Plus one on the z4m. Avoid Meyle. I had a pair come apart after less than a year's use.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

OE E46 M3.

[Vas]

Z4M for the FCAB and RTAB.

[Ssparrow]

Thanks for the recommendations fellas! Could I get some p/ns by chance? Now I assume I'll have to press in the RTABs correct? How do I go about setting the preload for the bushings after they are installed? That's one thing I seemed to like about the poly is I wouldn't have to be dealing with preload

[BMWCurves]

Part numbers:
Z4M RTABs: 33326770817
Z4M FCABs: left: 31107836862, right: 31107836863

Note:

I would consider the Bimmerworld sealed spherical RTABs if you have some time. PM Peter (username "slater") to get his opinion. It moves in multiple axes and is probably the best replacement, just a little more money.
I matched my Z4M RTABs with Vorshlag limiters (I bought both from Vorshlag's website, here: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4_26&products_id=515)
The Z4M FCAB part numbers listed come already pressed into their carriers aka "lollipops," so no need to press them.

[Ssparrow]

Part numbers:
Z4M RTABs: 33326770817
Z4M FCABs: left: 31107836862, right: 31107836863

Note:

I would consider the Bimmerworld sealed spherical RTABs if you have some time. PM Peter (username "slater") to get his opinion. It moves in multiple axes and is probably the best replacement, just a little more money.
I matched my Z4M RTABs with Vorshlag limiters (I bought both from Vorshlag's website, here: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4_26&products_id=515)
The Z4M FCAB part numbers listed come already pressed into their carriers aka "lollipops," so no need to press them.


Awesome! Thanks a ton. I will definitely look into those bimmerworld RTABs as well. Now with the fcabs, they will add caster right? What are the benefits of added caster?

[BMWCurves]

Increasing positive caster effectively increases the wheel base and should increase straight line stability. It should also effectively increase negative camber when turning, improving the feel when in the corners.

[Ssparrow]

Sounds good. Thanks again for the help! I'll definitely spring for the z4m fcabs and possibly rtabs when the time comes. Hopefully within the next month or so. Depending on if utahs weather will cooperate with me...

[bshovers]

Is this the correct belly pan? I was on real oem and it was being excluded from the parts list I was looking at. Does the Zhp have a different belly pan to accommodate our aerodynamic brake cooling ducts?
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/30/339e31bb8795a7fc870ab193774f8a80.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/30/3a54f746f615ad03de05358a255ec6d5.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vas]

That is the correct one. Check out fcp euro might have better pricing

[az3579]

That is the correct one. Check out fcp euro might have better pricing

They do price match.

[Stewbie]

I'm planning on installing strut tower reinforcement plates (like these: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-323-e46-strut-tower-reinforcement-plates-pair.aspx) and have a few questions.

1. All my research says yes, but I'd like to be certain on this. The spring is contained on the strut assembly. I don't need to contain it before lowering the strut assembly, correct?
2. The alignment tab on the strut mount means I won't need an alignment after I'm done?
3. Do I need to disconnect the stabilizer bar link, brake hose, wires, etc. (I don't have Xenon headlights) if I'm just lowering the strut assembly enough to slip the reinforcement plate on top?

Thanks in advance!

[BMWCurves]

I put in the strut tower reinforcement plates when I did my suspension refresh. They just sit between the strut assembly and the strut tower.


I'm planning on installing strut tower reinforcement plates (like these: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-323-e46-strut-tower-reinforcement-plates-pair.aspx) and have a few questions.

1. All my research says yes, but I'd like to be certain on this. The spring is contained on the strut assembly. I don't need to contain it before lowering the strut assembly, correct?

Correct. The strut assembly is a unit comprised of the strut mount, some other plate thing I can't remember the name of, the strut itself, the spring, spring pads, and dust boots. When you remove the three nuts on the strut tower the strut assembly will remove as one piece (after you've removed the strut from the lower attachment points)


2. The alignment tab on the strut mount means I won't need an alignment after I'm done?

I'm pretty sure you need an alignment afterwards. After I did my refresh, despite using the same springs and just using new shocks/struts, I needed an alignment.


3. Do I need to disconnect the stabilizer bar link, brake hose, wires, etc. (I don't have Xenon headlights) if I'm just lowering the strut assembly enough to slip the reinforcement plate on top?

If you're just sliding the plate in I don't think you should have to detach any of that stuff. There should be enough give for you to slide in the plate, but I can't be sure since I had the whole assembly apart when I did.

[ELCID86]

You may need an alignment as it will move the settings a bit. Not sure which ones or how much. The plates just sit on top but sometimes the nub has to be drilled out to get alignment into spec (but you will put the pin into the hole when reinstalling ).


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[ELCID86]

Also, you might be able to slide them in when dropping the strut, but I couldn't. There wasn't enough clearance. Maybe if Bruce or someone is monitoring this thread they can chime in.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[jakksfor20]

Sounds good. Thanks again for the help! I'll definitely spring for the z4m fcabs and possibly rtabs when the time comes. Hopefully within the next month or so. Depending on if utahs weather will cooperate with me...

I have a set of the z4m fcabs that I got just a couple of weeks ago. I decided to not put them on. Bought for $48 as they were on sale, but I'll send to you $40 shipped.

Edit: Sold!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Vas]

I have a set of the z4m fcabs that I got just a couple of weeks ago. I decided to not put them on. Bought for $48 as they were on sale, but I'll send to you $40 shipped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pm sent since I'm in the market as well

[NYRhockey]

Where can i get a side mirror cover? noticed today the right side mirror is missing it's cover but have no idea how the heck it went missing. I looked at the left side and it seems very tightly fit so don't think it would have just fallen down. On the other hand the car doesn't go out much and is parked in a garage overnight and if someone took it why wouldn't they just take both.

[ELCID86]

I have a set of the z4m fcabs that I got just a couple of weeks ago. I decided to not put them on. Bought for $48 as they were on sale, but I'll send to you $40 shipped.

Edit: Sold!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick sale.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[BMWCurves]

Where can i get a side mirror cover? noticed today the right side mirror is missing it's cover but have no idea how the heck it went missing. I looked at the left side and it seems very tightly fit so don't think it would have just fallen down. On the other hand the car doesn't go out much and is parked in a garage overnight and if someone took it why wouldn't they just take both.

I'm not sure about sedans, but from RealOEM.com the part numbers for the side mirror covers are:
- 51167074235 (left)
- 51167074236 (right)

They're about $50 each and are primed, but you'd have to get it painted. Alternatively, just try and find a scrapped car locally.

[NYRhockey]

I'm not sure about sedans, but from RealOEM.com the part numbers for the side mirror covers are:
- 51167074235 (left)
- 51167074236 (right)

They're about $50 each and are primed, but you'd have to get it painted. Alternatively, just try and find a scrapped car locally.

Thanks. Are the mirrors the same on zhp vs. M3's? Mine is Imola Red which is only available on the M and those are coupes (the e46 at least)

[Vas]

Where can i get a side mirror cover? noticed today the right side mirror is missing it's cover but have no idea how the heck it went missing. I looked at the left side and it seems very tightly fit so don't think it would have just fallen down. On the other hand the car doesn't go out much and is parked in a garage overnight and if someone took it why wouldn't they just take both.
Do you have a coupe or sedan ?

M3 mirrors are different.

Ebay has some imola red mirrors that are not m3

[NYRhockey]

sedan

[NYRhockey]

i found this one but cannot tell if it's Imola or other red

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-Sedan-Power-Side-Mirror-Right-L-RED-/281881592485?hash=item41a173c2a5:g:x2IAAOSw8-tWaj9q&vxp=mtr

[BMWCurves]

i found this one but cannot tell if it's Imola or other red

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-Sedan-Power-Side-Mirror-Right-L-RED-/281881592485?hash=item41a173c2a5:g:x2IAAOSw8-tWaj9q&vxp=mtr

Send them a question asking what the car's VIN is. I don't think you could get Imola on a non-ZHP, but someone else can verify that. The wheels aren't Style 135s, but perhaps the owner put different wheels on.

Also, since your car is a sedan, it will have different part numbers for the side mirror cap than the ones I gave. Those numbers I gave were for a coupe and will not fit a sedan.

[az3579]

i found this one but cannot tell if it's Imola or other red

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E46-Sedan-Power-Side-Mirror-Right-L-RED-/281881592485?hash=item41a173c2a5:g:x2IAAOSw8-tWaj9q&vxp=mtr

It is not Imola; the pictured car is not a ZHP. No gloss black trim to be seen in the pic. Also, if you find one that says it's from a 325i, it's guaranteed not to be Imola.


Send them a question asking what the car's VIN is. I don't think you could get Imola on a non-ZHP, but someone else can verify that.

Correct.

[NYRhockey]

I don't think you could get Imola on a non-ZHP, but someone else can verify that.

that is/was my fear, as it will make my search that much harder.

Going to look around locally at scrap yards but will also call BMW on Monday to see if they can also get it. I don't want to drive around without a mirror cap too long.

[Stewbie]

Strut tower reinforcement plates installed. Surprisingly easy job. Turns out I had to disconnect the sway bay link as the control arm wouldn't drop low enough to slip the plate on top if I didn't. Thanks for the comments above!

[ELCID86]

Strut tower reinforcement plates installed. Surprisingly easy job. Turns out I had to disconnect the sway bay link as the control arm wouldn't drop low enough to slip the plate on top if I didn't. Thanks for the comments above!

That's what I was trying to remember :facepalm (hey I'll be 52 in a few weeks...). Good work.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[mynamenumber]

Hope you all don't think I'm taking too much advantage of the "random questions" thread here, but as a new and first-time ZHP owner, I have a bunch of new-year-questions:

1)
Is this little "nubbin" on the side of the brake fluid container normal? Why is it there, if so? It just reminds me of those plastic straws with honey in them...

23446

2)
I assume it's related to gas but what's this little green thing in the right side of the trunk?

23456

3)
Some of the rubber exterior molding has this permanent wet/dry look - maybe some of the original coating has flaked off? Is there any treatment to clean up the look of this?

23455

4)
Should the heat buffer under the hood sag this much, or can something be done (those tabs don't just stick back in where the should), or should I replace it?

23454

23453

5)
Are these headlights OEM? My VIN says it shipped with (522 Xenon Light Xenon-licht). Any ideas on what brand the aftermarket Angel Eyes are? Anything I can do to tell? I believe the rear lights are "Eagle Eye" brand LEDs, so wouldn't be surprised if the PO replaced all or just some.

23452

23451

6)
The paint on the car is in good shape, except this spot on the bumper, which is pretty damn rough. Any ideas on the best thing to do here? Is this a replacement situation, or can it easily be fixed / refinished? It appears undamaged, just paint cracks / scrapes / chip-outs.

23450

7)
Do you all just use a shop-vac or something to clean this area near the hood hinge? Both sides are filled with a nice inch or so of rotted leaves and dirt...

23449

8)
Turn signals are permanently foggy, since I got it. Thoughts on what to do? Can I pull them apart and dry them, or is it more complicated than that?

23448

9)
Possibly related to the above, should this rubber trim be replaced? Also, the light lenses are due for a clean / replacement. Any advice? Do I need to know the brand first, or is that not relevant to the fronts?

23447

10)
What are these odd brown drips inside the empty box under the hood? Clean or leave them?

23443

11)
WTF is this odd screw thread protruding from the front left strut tower? I don't see the same on the right.

23444

12)
Does this plastic cap fill this hole in the trunk wall, facing the back seats? It doesn't stay in there. Why is there a hole there in the first place?

23457



OK, that many questions probably pushes the limits of good taste, but thanks for any insights!

[danewilson77]

1. Not sure.

2. It'll allow you to open the gas door from your trunk.

3. Mothers back to black or replace it.

4. May have to replace anchor screws, or remove the liner entirely.

5. Probably OEM lights with Weiss Weisslicht A/E's.

6. Body shop for respray.

7. Yes. Brush and shop vac.

8. You'll need to buy new corners. Gaskets/seals are permanent to housing and cannot be replaced.

9. Replace both side gaskets.

10. Leave them or remove. Most here have them. I think it's residue left over from South Dakota deadening material install?

11. It just a piece left over from manufacturing I believe. Someone else confirm.

12. Unsure.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[mynamenumber]

1. Not sure.

2. It'll allow you to open the gas door from your trunk.

3. Mothers back to black or replace it.

4. May have to replace anchor screws, or remove the liner entirely.

5. Probably OEM lights with Weiss Weisslicht A/E's.

6. Body shop for respray.

7. Yes. Brush and shop vac.

8. You'll need to buy new corners. Gaskets/seals are permanent to housing and cannot be replaced.

9. Replace both side gaskets.

10. Leave them or remove. Most here have them. I think it's residue left over from South Dakota deadening material install?

11. It just a piece left over from manufacturing I believe. Someone else confirm.

12. Unsure.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk



WOW thanks reading and for the epic answers.


For #9, do you have any part number or replacement dealer recommendations for the headlight gaskets? And for the headlight lenses as well?

Actually, same question for the side indicators. I like the white / clear look rather than the yellow, but totally open to any input.


So, I'll get the shop vac and back to black out, stop by a respray shop, and buy some headlight parts, and should be all set (for now, right?) (!!)

[danewilson77]

Sounds good. I don't remember. Coupe or sedan?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[mynamenumber]

Sedan.

Oh, and I should have mentioned - the angel eyes are capable of both white AND yellow color. They are currently wired wrong, such that the yellow never happens, and also so the white AEs blink along with the turn signal (looks silly). I'll need to fix that - wondering the brand so I can get to work on that fix.

Thanks again!

[wsmeyer]

1. If you had a manual it would feed the clutch slave cylinder.

11. It's there just to jack up your hand every time you mess with the airbox. Either that or some other country has something attached to it.

[ELCID86]

11. It's there just to jack up your hand every time you mess with the airbox. Either that or some other country has something attached to it.

:rofl


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

And to finish it all off, since DW answered almost all of the other ones:

12. It looks like the correct cap. Check inside the hole; there's a probably a screw or nut that is hidden in there, which is why there'd be a cover there. If it doesn't fit well, it probably needs to be replaced or the legs adjusted on it.

[ELCID86]

3) try to scrub it with a cleaner like grime reaper then hit it with Super VRT.

4) I removed mine

7) fingers or needle nose might work too.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[az3579]

There isn't really any saving that half faded trim. Any solutions you can come up with, short of repainting them, is temporary. It's either respray or buy a new one. Even the respray won't look as good as a brand new one.

[mynamenumber]

In case I go the replace route, anyone got part numbers for a full sedan black trim replace?

[bosszhp]

Ok so my cylinder 1 coil went today along with the spark plug. Picked up 6 NGK laser platinum plugs from Autozone but couldn't find any store that had a Bosch Ignition Coil so I had to order that from Turner. The coil won't be here till Tues or Wednesday and I need to drive the car (short distance trips) so should I replace the spark plugs now and then replace the coil when it gets here or do it all at once? I figure it's better to drive on one bad coil and new spark plugs instead of a bad coil and a bad plug. There won't be any problems running a new plug on a bad coil will there? Sorry if it's a stupid question, probably overthinking this.

[Simmsled]

Do it all at once to save yourself the time.
Otherwise, no harm in doing it separately.

[fredo]

For the headlight lenses I went with Khoalty. Good quality, good price. I bought the OEM gaskets at the same time (Khoalty sells that as well) and the total was $124. On my first e46 I tried Forever Black for the trim. Very happy with the results. It even comes with a cleaning solution to be applied first. I sold that car 3 years after FB was applied and still looked great.


WOW thanks reading and for the epic answers.


For #9, do you have any part number or replacement dealer recommendations for the headlight gaskets? And for the headlight lenses as well?

Actually, same question for the side indicators. I like the white / clear look rather than the yellow, but totally open to any input.


So, I'll get the shop vac and back to black out, stop by a respray shop, and buy some headlight parts, and should be all set (for now, right?) (!!)

[fredo]

Any comments on a Bosch starter ? Are they good ? Thanks, guys.

[Ssparrow]

Any comments on a Bosch starter ? Are they good ? Thanks, guys.

I bought a Bosch starter about a year ago when mine went out, so far so good! I pretty much told myself to get the best of the best when it comes to starters and I heard the Bosch is the best. Im glad I went with the Bosch as i REALLY don't want to tackle that job again.

[fredo]

That's good news ! Thanks for info.


I bought a Bosch starter about a year ago when mine went out, so far so good! I pretty much told myself to get the best of the best when it comes to starters and I heard the Bosch is the best. Im glad I went with the Bosch as i REALLY don't want to tackle that job again.

[ELCID86]

Any comments on a Bosch starter ? Are they good ? Thanks, guys.


I bought a Bosch starter about a year ago when mine went out, so far so good! I pretty much told myself to get the best of the best when it comes to starters and I heard the Bosch is the best. Im glad I went with the Bosch as i REALLY don't want to tackle that job again.

Mine is on the "watch list"...sometimes it doesn't crank on the first turn, but give a nasty sound. It looks like a bear of a DIY...

[Ssparrow]

Mine is on the "watch list"...sometimes it doesn't crank on the first turn, but give a nasty sound. It looks like a bear of a DIY...

It's definitely not a fun one, I actually had to replace mine in sub freezing temps so I think that made it worse than it really is. Once I got the old one the new one was installed in less than 30 minutes. It's just a really tight squeeze.

[ELCID86]

It's definitely not a fun one, I actually had to replace mine in sub freezing temps so I think that made it worse than it really is. Once I got the old one the new one was installed in less than 30 minutes. It's just a really tight squeeze.
Thanks Shawn, good to know. I need to research it a bit more. (and probably get a starter on hand just in case...)

[fredo]

Thanks Shawn, good to know. I need to research it a bit more. (and probably get a starter on hand just in case...)

eEuroparts.com sells new Bosch starters (not remanufactured) for $170 or so.

[Ssparrow]

Thanks Shawn, good to know. I need to research it a bit more. (and probably get a starter on hand just in case...)

Anytime! If you have any questions if/when the time comes I'd be happy to answer them!

[BMWCurves]

What is the part number for the relocation bracket for a non-nav car to retrofit navigation? Is it 51168205378? I'm having a tough time confirming.

[az3579]

What is the part number for the relocation bracket for a non-nav car to retrofit navigation? Is it 51168205378? I'm having a tough time confirming.

51167001410
Radio mounting bracket for facelift cars, nav version, with smoker's package (lit ashtray with cigarette lighter socket).
This is the one I purchased and is perfect.

[BMWCurves]

Perfect, thanks!

[UWISHU1]

So here's a random question: What might go first if I like to speed shift second gear? How durable is this 6MT? I went through a Subaru 5MT the hard way, so I'm hoping the BMW 6-speed is like the ST! 6-speed- in that it can take a beating. Anyone here do any drag racing, or lots of clutch drops?

-U

[az3579]

So here's a random question: What might go first if I like to speed shift second gear? How durable is this 6MT? I went through a Subaru 5MT the hard way, so I'm hoping the BMW 6-speed is like the ST! 6-speed- in that it can take a beating. Anyone here do any drag racing, or lots of clutch drops?

-U

Synchros. If you're worried about longevity, don't do it.
German cars in general have issues with 2nd gear synchros as they age.

[ELCID86]

So here's a random question: What might go first if I like to speed shift second gear? How durable is this 6MT? I went through a Subaru 5MT the hard way, so I'm hoping the BMW 6-speed is like the ST! 6-speed- in that it can take a beating. Anyone here do any drag racing, or lots of clutch drops?

-U
Seems like perhaps the wrong car for the job.

[UWISHU1]

I was hoping I'd be lucky to hear that they built it well enough to handle some pounding. Duly noted.

[az3579]

I was hoping I'd be lucky to hear that they built it well enough to handle some pounding. Duly noted.

Yeah, BMWs aren't made to drag race, and as such aren't built to withstand extremely harsh shifting. Sorry, I know not what you wanted to hear. :(
I'm pretty sure clutch drops would break something eventually as well. I remember seeing a video of a guy who posted about his M3 that he started drag racing. Destroyed his diff I think...

[UWISHU1]

For the record, I'm smart enough to stay off the drag strip, and I know how to (generally) avoid breaking things. Once in a while it just feels real good to leave a kid in a GTI or otherwise because they can't launch as well nor shift as fast as I can. Now that I'm N/A again, I've gotta do everything right to teach a lesson.

[terraphantm]

It's not like aggressive driving will instantly toast a synchro. But on any car harder driving will cause failures earlier than normal driving. As long as you're not slamming it into 2nd every shift, I wouldn't worry about having some fun every now and then.

[az3579]

For the record, I'm smart enough to stay off the drag strip, and I know how to (generally) avoid breaking things. Once in a while it just feels real good to leave a kid in a GTI or otherwise because they can't launch as well nor shift as fast as I can. Now that I'm N/A again, I've gotta do everything right to teach a lesson.

Yeah, doing it every once in a while is definitely not a problem, as long as it's not chronic drag racing. :thumbsup

I knew a guy who used to slam it into 2nd at every shift just as part of his normal driving style, then wondered why he was having synchro issues. If it can take a few years of that kind of abuse before synchro failure, then that occasional GTI beating shouldn't be an issue.

[stephenkirsh]

Noob question. What's "speed shifting"?

[az3579]

Noob question. What's "speed shifting"?

It involves some extremely quick clutchwork and not lifting off the throttle while shifting, all the while slamming it into the next available gear.

[stephenkirsh]

Gotcha

[stephenkirsh]

23532


My warning light is on by my headlights are fine. Any ideas?

Halogen bulbs.

[danewilson77]

Blinker?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[az3579]

23532


My warning light is on by my headlights are fine. Any ideas?

Halogen bulbs.
Since you said your headlights (I assume low beams) are fine, it could also be your high beam bulbs or your turn signals.

Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk

[stephenkirsh]

High beams are good. Blinkers... I saw blinking, but that could be from the quarter panel blinker, now that I think about it. I'll check that thx

[stephenkirsh]

Just tested all exterior light on the car. No issues; all bulbs are working.

Now what?

[az3579]

Check your bulb socket for your turn signal. Swap it with the other side and see if the problem follows.

[TigerTater]

Well crap. Coolant leak. Seems to be from expansion tank and expansion tank mounting plate connection. Replaced tank when I did cooling overhaul at 85k. Should I replace tank and mounting plate? Any suggestions 23543

I can pull the two apart pretty easily and fluid starts leaking. The heater return hose appears fine. It's just wet from above leak.

[trancenation]

There is a small O-Ring that may have gotten dislodged or shifted in that hose connection that mates to the E-Tank?

I can pull the two apart pretty easily and fluid starts leaking. The heater return hose appears fine. It's just wet from above leak.[/QUOTE]

[Vas]

As far as I recall, the expansion tank is the one that has the 0-rings in them. I would pull the tank out and see what conditions those o-rings are in there.

[TigerTater]

There is a small O-Ring that may have gotten dislodged or shifted in that hose connection that mates to the E-Tank?

I can pull the two apart pretty easily and fluid starts leaking. The heater return hose appears fine. It's just wet from above leak.[/QUOTE]


As far as I recall, the expansion tank is the one that has the 0-rings in them. I would pull the tank out and see what conditions those o-rings are in there.

Thanks guys. Ended up getting a new ET and also went to local parts store and matched up the O rings that come in a new one with some replacements since you can't purchase the O rings individually without buying an ET(will return ET as I just needed it to size O rings). Replaced them and re filled the system cleaned everything up only to realize I had forgot to put the trans thermostat back in[emoji36]! So drained the system again and took all back apart and put back together. Filled and bled the system, cleaned all the coolant off. Will make sure all is leak free in the morning and see if my 5$ fix worked.

[stephenkirsh]

Check your bulb socket for your turn signal. Swap it with the other side and see if the problem follows.

Swapped sides with the sockets. Error light didn't change sides.

What's next?

[bosszhp]

There is something rattling in my driver door card and it is driving me INSANE. I had my indy pull the door card and they said they didn't find anything, but I hear it and it's getting worse it sounds like. Any idea what it could be? I'm going to pull the door card myself and look. There is nothing in the door pocket so that is out of the question.

[ELCID86]

Could be a lose wire. Not that its disconnected from the speaker but the wire runs a foot or so and might be flapping around. Some 3m double sided tape under it might help. Not sure what else. The card is pretty easy to remove following the DIY. The top part sounds bad when you pull it off but you aren't breaking anything (if you don't pull it away too far and jerk the door release. Or speaker wires).


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[BMWCurves]

There is something rattling in my driver door card and it is driving me INSANE. I had my indy pull the door card and they said they didn't find anything, but I hear it and it's getting worse it sounds like. Any idea what it could be? I'm going to pull the door card myself and look. There is nothing in the door pocket so that is out of the question.

You drive a coupe, right? I have the same issue with my passenger door in my coupe and had the same issue in my other 3-series coupe. I find it's worse with cold weather, I assume due to parts shrinking ever so slightly, giving room for them to buzz around. Also, for me at least, it is located to the speaker grille. If I push on it, or have my passenger push on it while we drive, it minimizes the sound. I remember reading a thread a while ago that the door rattle often has to do with some clips in the speaker grille that come loose or worn with time and rattle around. Google "E46 coupe door rattle" and you'll find probably close to a hundred threads on the topic, all using their own shaman voodoo magic to cure their rattle only to have another crop up.

[az3579]

Try replacing your door panel clips. They wear and get looser when you remove the door card and reuse the clips.

Sent from my LG V10 on Tapatalk

[bosszhp]

You drive a coupe, right? I have the same issue with my passenger door in my coupe and had the same issue in my other 3-series coupe. I find it's worse with cold weather, I assume due to parts shrinking ever so slightly, giving room for them to buzz around. Also, for me at least, it is located to the speaker grille. If I push on it, or have my passenger push on it while we drive, it minimizes the sound. I remember reading a thread a while ago that the door rattle often has to do with some clips in the speaker grille that come loose or worn with time and rattle around. Google "E46 coupe door rattle" and you'll find probably close to a hundred threads on the topic, all using their own shaman voodoo magic to cure their rattle only to have another crop up.

Yeah I have a coupe. The sound is coming from the top middle part of the door panel and sounds like the glass rattling or something. Still happens when the window is rolled down a little bit and there isn't anywhere I can push or hold on the door that stops it. Since my Indy didn't see anything loose I'm guessing it's the clips.

[BMWCurves]

Good luck, let me know if that solves your issue.

[stephenkirsh]

Failing window regulator a possibility?

[UWISHU1]

I've been planning on waiting for warmer weather to sort it out, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to just ask. My driver rear suspension is squeaking pretty bad. I can't hear it from inside the car while driving, but when getting out of the car and unloading the suspension, it does it. When pushing on that corner of the car it does it, and it even squeaks a little when I just shut the driver door.

LMK if this is a common problem. If not, I'll just revert to typical suspension diagnostics when it's a little nicer out.

[stephenkirsh]

I think both my e46s did/do this. Not as often as it sounds in your case, though.

[UWISHU1]

Curiouser and curiouser

[bosszhp]

Good luck, let me know if that solves your issue.

Some success came from yesterday despite my disastrous VCG replacement. I took the door card off, taped down a few of the loose pins/clips and the sound is gone (knock on wood)! Hopefully it doesn't creek up again. On another note, how does my engine look? First time ever seeing her "exposed" hehe. For the miles I have on the car I was pleased to see very minimal sludge/buildup.
23658
23659

[BMWCurves]

Some success came from yesterday despite my disastrous VCG replacement. I took the door card off, taped down a few of the loose pins/clips and the sound is gone (knock on wood)! Hopefully it doesn't creek up again. On another note, how does my engine look? First time ever seeing her "exposed" hehe. For the miles I have on the car I was pleased to see very minimal sludge/buildup.

Did you use a specific guide to get the door card off? I've never done it and want to do it right.

As for your engine, looks clean to me! But I've only seen the valve cover off on our cars twice, both times at a mechanics where they were basically cleaning out the top end so they were spotless.

[bosszhp]

Did you use a specific guide to get the door card off? I've never done it and want to do it right.

As for your engine, looks clean to me! But I've only seen the valve cover off on our cars twice, both times at a mechanics where they were basically cleaning out the top end so they were spotless.

I followed this video guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5n9RkvBmAc

Hardest part was probably getting the Airbag emblem off, so in other words it's pretty easy. I even used the end of a spatula to wedge in-between the door panel and door to get the pins out haha. To make it easier roll down the window and lock the door. Just as I fixed my driver door rattle another one has popped up in my passenger door when playing bassy songs :thumbsdown

[ELCID86]

Well at least you know how to get to the gremlin now.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member

[bosszhp]

My clip tape fix only worked temporarily. Went over some speed bumps today and they must've come loose again because back came the rattle. Ponied up a full $10 and bought 50 clips from eBay. That should do the trick.

Link if anyone else needs them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/260776533668

[BMWCurves]

Thanks for the link!

Just a heads up, I do recall from a few years ago that BMW made door clips with foam padding that might improve the buzzing. I think the part number is 51418224781. LIke these: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-BMW-Clips-Washer-1998-current/dp/B008LMWL38

[bosszhp]

Thanks for the link!

Just a heads up, I do recall from a few years ago that BMW made door clips with foam padding that might improve the buzzing. I think the part number is 51418224781. LIke these: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-BMW-Clips-Washer-1998-current/dp/B008LMWL38

If my eBay clips don't work well I'll pick some of those up. At $10 for 50 it was a no brainer but those ones with padding look intriguing.

[NYRhockey]

Going to get my winter tires on this weekend and thinking the car could use an alignment. Are alignments specific to the tires being mounted on, or once the winters come off will it still be aligned with the everyday tires since they're bigger/wider? Just wondering whether i shoudl do the alignment now or wait til the winters come off in the spring.

[ELCID86]

Going to get my winter tires on this weekend and thinking the car could use an alignment. Are alignments specific to the tires being mounted on, or once the winters come off will it still be aligned with the everyday tires since they're bigger/wider? Just wondering whether i shoudl do the alignment now or wait til the winters come off in the spring.


Hmm, I'm not sure it matters, but I may lean towards doing it with summer tires on. Other thoughts?

[NoVAphotog]

Going to get my winter tires on this weekend and thinking the car could use an alignment. Are alignments specific to the tires being mounted on, or once the winters come off will it still be aligned with the everyday tires since they're bigger/wider? Just wondering whether i shoudl do the alignment now or wait til the winters come off in the spring.

It shouldn't matter that much. I got an alignment over the summer and then put on the winter tires. I would just tell them to align the car using the VIn and the 18in option/sport option and drive. Shouldn't be an issue and then you are ready to go in the spring.

[NYRhockey]

It shouldn't matter that much. I got an alignment over the summer and then put on the winter tires. I would just tell them to align the car using the VIn and the 18in option/sport option and drive. Shouldn't be an issue and then you are ready to go in the spring.

Good idea, i'll do that. Thx!

[NYRhockey]

Update on the side mirror: Ended up buying the mirror on ebay because the seller said it was the right color but really wasn't, so before fighting it with my credit card company / ebay i called the dealer and they referred me to their body shop. They said they could repaint it to match my color so brought it in for an estimate and they quoted me $70 to repaint.

Brought it in today for installation and told them the side mirrors were not working so they looked into it and changed the blown fuse for free and they also buffed out a couple of smudges i had from trying to use dr. colorchip and forgetting to clean it off, free of charge as well. Happy to see shops do little extras for the customer so overall a good experience and definitely a place i'd go back to again.

[az3579]

It shouldn't matter that much. I got an alignment over the summer and then put on the winter tires. I would just tell them to align the car using the VIn and the 18in option/sport option and drive. Shouldn't be an issue and then you are ready to go in the spring.

You shouldn't have to worry about this. They already do this by default; they go by VIN.

[bosszhp]

What can I get to fix the broken rubber hose on the F connecter from my intake boot? When I had my E39 my old indy gave me some black rubber tubing that just slipped over both ends to reconnect them, anyone know where I can get it or what it's actually called?

23700

[ZHP_Brandon]

Having the same problem as BossZHP, that lower hose is cracked almost to where it would be severed in his photo, Got a quote from my local dealership.

It would be 120$ for the F Connector & Two hoses or about 34$ per hose, I know the estimate is in my trunk

Ive heard of people just buying the same gauge tubing from "autopart stores" but idk what to even ask for lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[UWISHU1]

Traction Control Q:
I couldn't begin to remember all the burnouts and donuts I did in my muscle car days, so now that I'm back to RWD for the first time in forever, I decided to test the waters by doing a quick wheel spin in the rain. I don't care for first gear "burnouts" because they're over so quickly and I can't help speed shifting second and doing it through another taller gear anyway.

So it was raining and I wanted get a second gear spin going. I don't know what my speeds were, but I went about halfway up the powerband in first, put the clutch in, shifted to second and revved it pretty good, then dropped the clutch pretty quick keeping on the gas pretty hard. It was jerky and a terrible experience I don't care to try again. I felt really bad for the car and immediately apologized for what I had done.
After realizing the DSC (that's what we're calling it, right?) was on, I pushed the button and the yellow symbol came up on the cluster. So I went for it again, but it wasn't much better than the first time. Very jerky and it felt like what I imagine it's like to ride a horse through deep water.

Are the 255's hard to get going? This is the widest tire I've ever run. It was raining that day, but the road was fairly clean and traction was actually mostly good as it turned out. I just wanted to use the wetness to test wheel spin without abusing the car too much and it didn't go very well, so before I decide to rev higher and drop the clutch harder and really abuse the car, some quick questions...

I've heard some BMW's with traction control have a button that turns yellow when you press it to deactivate, but if you continue to hold the button it turns red to completely disable it. I tried holding the DSC button and it just blanked out for a minute where it wouldn't do anything, then came back to normal after I left it alone for about 20/30 seconds.

My question is- when I push the button and the disable symbol illuminates on the cluster, I'm completely disengaged from traction control?

If not, how do I completely disengage it for happy fun time? Do I just need to get after it more? I just figured I'd check with you fellas before I do something stupid.

Thx in advance,
-U

[ZacharyMikel]

Traction Control Q:

If not, how do I completely disengage it for happy fun time? Do I just need to get after it more? I just figured I'd check with you fellas before I do something stupid.

Thx in advance,
-U

When you press the DSC button the first time and the light illuminates, you're in "half traction control" mode. It lets you be a little more aggressive, but will "reign" you in if things get too crazy. For complete unmoderated burnout fun, you must hold the DSC button for ten seconds and the brake light will come on, only yellow (instead of red). Then the DSC system is completely disabled.


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[UWISHU1]

Ahhhh...I knew I had to be missing something. Awesome. Thx man!

Does the brake light stay on the whole time DSC is off? And is the DSC-disable symbol on at the same time as the brake light?

[ZacharyMikel]

Does the brake light stay on the whole time DSC is off? And is the DSC-disable symbol on at the same time as the brake light?

No worries! Don't go too crazy on that drivetrain ;)

Both lights will stay illuminated until you press the DSC button again to re-enable the DSC system.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[UWISHU1]

Perfect. It's only a once in a while kinda thing...there's nothing I hate more than paying a bunch of money just to get a car back to the way it already was. I much prefer to spend my money on gofastbits.

[ELCID86]

What can I get to fix the broken rubber hose on the F connecter from my intake boot? When I had my E39 my old indy gave me some black rubber tubing that just slipped over both ends to reconnect them, anyone know where I can get it or what it's actually called?

23700

F connect is only a few bucks. I got several feet of hose a while back. Maybe ecstuning.

23701

Edit. Hmm also appears I bought this...

23745
---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[az3579]

When you press the DSC button the first time and the light illuminates, you're in "half traction control" mode. It lets you be a little more aggressive, but will "reign" you in if things get too crazy. For complete unmoderated burnout fun, you must hold the DSC button for ten seconds and the brake light will come on, only yellow (instead of red). Then the DSC system is completely disabled.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You only need three seconds. Once that yellow BRAKE light comes on in conjuction with the traction light, you're good to go! Note, you have to hold the button from a complete ON scenario, as in... don't press it first then hold. Just go straight from traction being ON to holding it for three seconds. Then you're in the sweet spot. :thumbsup

[stephenkirsh]

Traction Control Q:
I couldn't begin to remember all the burnouts and donuts I did in my muscle car days, so now that I'm back to RWD for the first time in forever, I decided to test the waters by doing a quick wheel spin in the rain. I don't care for first gear "burnouts" because they're over so quickly and I can't help speed shifting second and doing it through another taller gear anyway.

So it was raining and I wanted get a second gear spin going. I don't know what my speeds were, but I went about halfway up the powerband in first, put the clutch in, shifted to second and revved it pretty good, then dropped the clutch pretty quick keeping on the gas pretty hard. It was jerky and a terrible experience I don't care to try again. I felt really bad for the car and immediately apologized for what I had done.
After realizing the DSC (that's what we're calling it, right?) was on, I pushed the button and the yellow symbol came up on the cluster. So I went for it again, but it wasn't much better than the first time. Very jerky and it felt like what I imagine it's like to ride a horse through deep water.

Are the 255's hard to get going? This is the widest tire I've ever run. It was raining that day, but the road was fairly clean and traction was actually mostly good as it turned out. I just wanted to use the wetness to test wheel spin without abusing the car too much and it didn't go very well, so before I decide to rev higher and drop the clutch harder and really abuse the car, some quick questions...

I've heard some BMW's with traction control have a button that turns yellow when you press it to deactivate, but if you continue to hold the button it turns red to completely disable it. I tried holding the DSC button and it just blanked out for a minute where it wouldn't do anything, then came back to normal after I left it alone for about 20/30 seconds.

My question is- when I push the button and the disable symbol illuminates on the cluster, I'm completely disengaged from traction control?

If not, how do I completely disengage it for happy fun time? Do I just need to get after it more? I just figured I'd check with you fellas before I do something stupid.

Thx in advance,
-U

Careful dude. BMWs aren't designed to be driven like that. They're not muscle cars. I've heard of blown diffs and drive lines from over abuse.

[bosszhp]

Having the same problem as BossZHP, that lower hose is cracked almost to where it would be severed in his photo, Got a quote from my local dealership.

It would be 120$ for the F Connector & Two hoses or about 34$ per hose, I know the estimate is in my trunk

Ive heard of people just buying the same gauge tubing from "autopart stores" but idk what to even ask for lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

[ELCID86]

I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

I don't think it's that big of a deal to reuse a "new" gasket. What say others?

[san]

I'm going to AutoZone or O'Reilly and just asking for rubber tubing (best name I can think of lol). On another note, my Indy just called. They're doing my VANOS seals and they said they needed to replace my VCG, but the day before I took it in I put (or attempted, didn't go exactly as planned) a new VCG on and didn't torque the bolts down because I was taking it to my Indy the next day. They said that even reusing the day old one may cause a leak, is that accurate? I find it a little hard to believe since the VCG is only a few days old with less than 30 miles on it and it wasn't torqued down. Thoughts on this? I told them to just reuse the one I put on there.

I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bosszhp]

I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hopefully it doesn't leak because my VCG replacement attempt went terribly awry on Monday lol, shouldn't have even bothered since my Indy was doing the VANOS seals. Oh wellllll. Lets see what happens.

[ELCID86]

I would think it should be ok... And if it does leak I'm thinking you can replace it yourself


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
or tighten it a bit more... :dunno

[BMWCurves]

So on my next oil change I plan to swap out my oil level sensor since it's been sending low-oil warnings quite often despite the dipstick indicating oil is at the "full" marker. I already ordered the part a while ago and sprang for the BMW part rather than the Hella, while also purchasing the gasket for it. My first question is, is there any other part needed to swap out my oil level sensor, apart from the sensor itself and the gasket (which is apparently redundant because the BMW oil level sensor appears to have come with one)?

My next question is that when I opened up the box containing the oil level sensor, there were some instructions that said the following:

http://i.imgur.com/0mHnuhH.jpg

I assume that since the notice says "Affects vehicles with an S54 engine manufactured before March 1, 2001" I don't have to worry about any DME stuff for my car? I plan to disconnect the battery when I swap out the sensors.

Finally, not a question, but I remember BP picked up a Hella oil level sensor and surmised that the unit was in fact a BMW part, just with the BMW logo scrubbed off. I'm inclined to agree (see photo below). Anyone planning to replace their oil level sensor would be smart to save ~$90 and get the Hella unit.

http://i.imgur.com/pyxyGxd.jpg

[mynamenumber]

I just went through my PO's service records, and see that he's used two different oil weights through the history of the car.

Is there a contemporary "most preferred" oil for our cars? I might want to just swap in whatever is best, just to be 100% sure it's there now.

I'm in Oregon, if climate matters.

[ELCID86]

So on my next oil change I plan to swap out my oil level sensor since it's been sending low-oil warnings quite often despite the dipstick indicating oil is at the "full" marker. I already ordered the part a while ago and sprang for the BMW part rather than the Hella, while also purchasing the gasket for it. My first question is, is there any other part needed to swap out my oil level sensor, apart from the sensor itself and the gasket (which is apparently redundant because the BMW oil level sensor appears to have come with one)?

My next question is that when I opened up the box containing the oil level sensor, there were some instructions that said the following:

http://i.imgur.com/0mHnuhH.jpg

I assume that since the notice says "Affects vehicles with an S54 engine manufactured before March 1, 2001" I don't have to worry about any DME stuff for my car? I plan to disconnect the battery when I swap out the sensors.

Finally, not a question, but I remember BP picked up a Hella oil level sensor and surmised that the unit was in fact a BMW part, just with the BMW logo scrubbed off. I'm inclined to agree (see photo below). Anyone planning to replace their oil level sensor would be smart to save ~$90 and get the Hella unit.

http://i.imgur.com/pyxyGxd.jpg

It's a pretty easy swap. Just the three nuts (or bolts--On one of my car's the whole stud pulled out--like a bolt but all went back together fine.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[fredo]

I just went through my PO's service records, and see that he's used two different oil weights through the history of the car.

Is there a contemporary "most preferred" oil for our cars? I might want to just swap in whatever is best, just to be 100% sure it's there now.

I'm in Oregon, if climate matters.

My Indy used Mobil 5-40 synthetic the last time. Car has 140,000 miles.

[Vas]

Just remove and replace the oil sensor

[az3579]

So on my next oil change I plan to swap out my oil level sensor since it's been sending low-oil warnings quite often despite the dipstick indicating oil is at the "full" marker. I already ordered the part a while ago and sprang for the BMW part rather than the Hella, while also purchasing the gasket for it. My first question is, is there any other part needed to swap out my oil level sensor, apart from the sensor itself and the gasket (which is apparently redundant because the BMW oil level sensor appears to have come with one)?

My next question is that when I opened up the box containing the oil level sensor, there were some instructions that said the following:

http://i.imgur.com/0mHnuhH.jpg

I assume that since the notice says "Affects vehicles with an S54 engine manufactured before March 1, 2001" I don't have to worry about any DME stuff for my car? I plan to disconnect the battery when I swap out the sensors.

Finally, not a question, but I remember BP picked up a Hella oil level sensor and surmised that the unit was in fact a BMW part, just with the BMW logo scrubbed off. I'm inclined to agree (see photo below). Anyone planning to replace their oil level sensor would be smart to save ~$90 and get the Hella unit.

http://i.imgur.com/pyxyGxd.jpg


I just went through my PO's service records, and see that he's used two different oil weights through the history of the car.

Is there a contemporary "most preferred" oil for our cars? I might want to just swap in whatever is best, just to be 100% sure it's there now.

I'm in Oregon, if climate matters.

There is nothing DME related you have to worry about. Just removed old, put new in, call it a day. :)

Thanks for confirming that the OE part is the same exact thing as what I bought. After looking at the price difference, I didn't think twice about ordering the Hella part, especially since I know Hella makes a lot of OE parts for BMW. Seeing the logo scratched off was a relief because that confirmed my suspicion that the two parts were one in the same. :thumbsup

Since you bought an OE part, keep in mind it carries a 2-year warranty. Keep the receipt!

[BMWCurves]

I just went through my PO's service records, and see that he's used two different oil weights through the history of the car.

Is there a contemporary "most preferred" oil for our cars? I might want to just swap in whatever is best, just to be 100% sure it's there now.

I'm in Oregon, if climate matters.

BMW's oil from the parts department is 5W-30. It's what I have currently in my car. I'm moving to Mobil 1 0W-40 on my next oil change. Not sure what is the most preferred oil for our cars, but from the Mafia oil thread (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?942-The-Oil-Thread)), it should be Group IV or Group V oil, and:

"If you decide you want to run an oil not on this list either ask or buy one that meets the following. Our cars like to run oil that has a Viscocity @ 100°C of 11-14 (cSt). I probably wouldn't buy an oil that goes out of this range. Your Winter (W) weight should be 0, 5, or 10. Your upper number should be 30 or 40. If you jump out of these ranges you risk hurting the engine."

Hope that helps. Read through that oil thread, a lot of interesting details.


There is nothing DME related you have to worry about. Just removed old, put new in, call it a day. :)

Thanks for confirming that the OE part is the same exact thing as what I bought. After looking at the price difference, I didn't think twice about ordering the Hella part, especially since I know Hella makes a lot of OE parts for BMW. Seeing the logo scratched off was a relief because that confirmed my suspicion that the two parts were one in the same. :thumbsup

Since you bought an OE part, keep in mind it carries a 2-year warranty. Keep the receipt!

Perfect, thanks for confirming the DME stuff for me! And I like to go BMW whenever I can, but when it's literally the same part just with the branding scratched off, I have no problem saving some money. Picking Hella was a smart choice, BP.

[fredo]

Yeah, looking at the service records the PO used 5W-30 on the ZHP.

mynamenumber, what oil did you see in your records ?

[mynamenumber]

PO's service records indicate at least a time period using 10W30 and another, earlier time with 5W40W. Papers don't seem to indicate brand, though.

EDIT: Thanks for the link to the oil thread, reading now.

FAKE EDIT: Does anyone have experience with places like Oil Can Henry and the like? Is it safe to just do an oil swap there, or should I go to a proper shop / dealer?

[fredo]

When I bought my first BMW (e36 back in 2004) I tried one of those places (Jiffy Lube here). They said: we don't work on BMWs.

I found a good Indy and been going over there for some years. At the same time, they take a look at the car and tell me what needs immediate or future attention.

[BMWCurves]

PO's service records indicate at least a time period using 10W30 and another, earlier time with 5W40W. Papers don't seem to indicate brand, though.

EDIT: Thanks for the link to the oil thread, reading now.

FAKE EDIT: Does anyone have experience with places like Oil Can Henry and the like? Is it safe to just do an oil swap there, or should I go to a proper shop / dealer?

Personally I avoid places like Jiffy Lube and Oil Can Henry's like the plague. You hear a lot of horror stories but I have three personal ones:


When I was a kid my nanny took her Jeep to have her brake fluid flushed. In and out, no problem, but as she was on the highway someone rolled down their window and said "your wheel's on fire." I was six at the time so my memory might be fuzzy on details, but I distinctly remember her saying there was significant damage right after she had the work done.
My sister's Jetta was due for an oil change when I was in high school so I took it to an Oil Can Henry's. I got out and decided to watch and I witnessed as they tried to put a mix of old oil and new oil back in. I kid you not. I thought that was some horror stories, but they did exactly that. I went and talked to the manager and eventually had to have my dad come around to back me up since the manager didn't believe some teenager knew what he was talking about.
My buddy went for an oil change recently and basically they barely filled it with oil, he was about 2 quarts short when he rolled off the premises.

Just another recent example of a guy with his Audi S4: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/681930-Just-another-reason-not-to-take-your-S4-to-an-instant-oil-change-shop

Long story short, find and a good indy mechanic, or do it yourself.

[stephenkirsh]

I use wheel works for my wife's accord and my miata. So far so good. They're open weekends, which is about 99% why I can't use an indy. It's such a hassle to deal with getting rides or loaners or whatever is needed for a place open m-f 9-6.

[az3579]

BMW's oil from the parts department is 5W-30. It's what I have currently in my car. I'm moving to Mobil 1 0W-40 on my next oil change. Not sure what is the most preferred oil for our cars, but from the Mafia oil thread (link (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?942-The-Oil-Thread)), it should be Group IV or Group V oil, and:

"If you decide you want to run an oil not on this list either ask or buy one that meets the following. Our cars like to run oil that has a Viscocity @ 100°C of 11-14 (cSt). I probably wouldn't buy an oil that goes out of this range. Your Winter (W) weight should be 0, 5, or 10. Your upper number should be 30 or 40. If you jump out of these ranges you risk hurting the engine."

Hope that helps. Read through that oil thread, a lot of interesting details.



Perfect, thanks for confirming the DME stuff for me! And I like to go BMW whenever I can, but when it's literally the same part just with the branding scratched off, I have no problem saving some money. Picking Hella was a smart choice, BP.
Okay, so it seems I was only half right.
While I don't think there's anything DME related to worry about, some kind of coding might actually be required.

I just installed my sensor and found that the light goes on when I shut the car off. My tech friend says that needs to be coded with ISTA/P, which I don't have working yet. I was surprised to hear this as the research I did didn't mention coding afterwards...

I'm sitting in a restaurant right now after having worked on my car all day. I'll check the level after dinner to make sure it's not just low.

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[BMWCurves]

Okay, so it seems I was only half right.
While I don't think there's anything DME related to worry about, some kind of coding might actually be required.

I just installed my sensor and found that the light goes on when I shut the car off. My tech friend says that needs to be coded with ISTA/P, which I don't have working yet. I was surprised to hear this as the research I did didn't mention coding afterwards...

I'm sitting in a restaurant right now after having worked on my car all day. I'll check the level after dinner to make sure it's not just low.

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Sounds good. Interested to hear what the solution will be.

[danewilson77]

Personally I avoid places like Jiffy Lube and Oil Can Henry's like the plague....

This

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[johnrando]

Hood shocks (support) went out today. Curious for opinions on A - a new 1 ($50), B - new 2 ($100) or C - find used off a part out car? money isn't the issue per se but wouldn't mind not dropping a hundred on something not so exciting.

Also, I can look but would Sedan and Coupe be the same part #?

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[ELCID86]

Hood shocks (support) went out today. Curious for opinions on A - a new 1 ($50), B - new 2 ($100) or C - find used off a part out car? money isn't the issue per se but wouldn't mind not dropping a hundred on something not so exciting.

Also, I can look but would Sedan and Coupe be the same part #?

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Curios. Are they just not holding it up or did it physically break?


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[fredo]

Hood shocks (support) went out today. Curious for opinions on A - a new 1 ($50), B - new 2 ($100) or C - find used off a part out car? money isn't the issue per se but wouldn't mind not dropping a hundred on something not so exciting.

Also, I can look but would Sedan and Coupe be the same part #?

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I suggest to replace both with new ones, option B. My trunk ones started to fail on the Mini and e90 and I replaced all with new struts. In this way you know exactly what's in there.

[johnrando]

Shawn, just not holding up. Yes Fredo, I'm leaning option B as well.

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[BMWCurves]

Shawn, just not holding up. Yes Fredo, I'm leaning option B as well.

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I agree with Fredo. Unless another more modern BMW model shares the same hood shocks, I would go for new since any used ones would be 10+ years old at this point and will probably fail sooner rather than later.

[UWISHU1]

Follow up Q on the DSC thing: If in what I'll call full-off mode, does it disable the ABS? Someone mentioned this to me in passing. Hopefully not. Hopefully it just completely disables the computer and lets me take full control, but leaves ABS active.

Any input?

[az3579]

Follow up Q on the DSC thing: If in what I'll call full-off mode, does it disable the ABS? Someone mentioned this to me in passing. Hopefully not. Hopefully it just completely disables the computer and lets me take full control, but leaves ABS active.

Any input?

No. ABS stays active at all times unless you pull the fuse. There is no way to disable it short of breaking something it needs to operate (fuse is easiest).

[ELCID86]

Thanks for clarifying. That would seem very odd (and dangerous).


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[johnrando]

Just bought two new BMW "hood supports". While I'm sure it's fine not to for these, went OEM.

[stephenkirsh]

Thanks for clarifying. That would seem very odd (and dangerous).


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

Some people want to disable it for track use.

[ELCID86]

Some people want to disable it for track use.

Understood but there is a separate way to do that as BP stated.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[az3579]

Some people want to disable it for track use.


I actually don't know anyone personally who does that. I wouldn't want to either; the last thing I want is lockup at 100mph!
I found that if you do it right, ABS doesn't intervene, and you can still get the proper threshold braking done. :thumbsup

[UWISHU1]

I don't know about at the track, but at AutoX and hillclimbs I took full advantage of the capabilities of ABS to the point where I counted on it. I'd be interested to hear input on the advantage(s) of disabling it for track use.

[Karl Lazlo]

My experience with a road car with an ABS switch was my 1990 Audi cq. Big ole switch on the dash that allowed the driver to disable the ABS. Good for deep and loose surface (deep snow and gravel).

[az3579]

My experience with a road car with an ABS switch was my 1990 Audi cq. Big ole switch on the dash that allowed the driver to disable the ABS. Good for deep and loose surface (deep snow and gravel).

For rally use, disabling ABS totally makes sense.

[bosszhp]

Instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd just ask here; what's the current collective "best battery" for our cars since the Duralast 49-DL is now discontinued? Need to pick up a new battery soon.

Edit: Thoughts on the Duralast H8 vs Bosch 49? Anything comparable to either but a little cheaper?

[stephenkirsh]

I actually don't know anyone personally who does that. I wouldn't want to either; the last thing I want is lockup at 100mph!
I found that if you do it right, ABS doesn't intervene, and you can still get the proper threshold braking done. :thumbsup

Hey some people want that. Not me!

[ELCID86]

Instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd just ask here; what's the current collective "best battery" for our cars since the Duralast 49-DL is now discontinued? Need to pick up a new battery soon.

Edit: Thoughts on the Duralast H8 vs Bosch 49? Anything comparable to either but a little cheaper?

I thought there was one (or at least it's been discuss here). :dunno

I'd go WalMart or Advance Auto.


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[BMWCurves]

I picked up a Duralast 94R-DLG battery from AutoZone, same one John Rando has I think. I remember someone else saying the Walmart Everstart Maxx H8 worked well.

[johnrando]

Yup

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[NYRhockey]

What do you guys inflate your winter tires to? the door jam i think says 32 front, 38 rear but the winter winters are 17in and taller so not sure if that guidance should be followed.

[fredo]

I don't have the owner's manual handy. Maybe it has info for 17" tires ?

[NYRhockey]

Good call. I found the manual online and they list the different tire sizes and looks like it's still 32/38

[BMWCurves]

Good call. I found the manual online and they list the different tire sizes and looks like it's still 32/38

It's interesting, I checked my '05 manual and that's what it says for 17" tires (Sport Package equipped cars), but my '03 manual says 30/35 for the same car. I wonder why the change.

[fredo]

Not a big difference, but I'm curious about the why. :dunno

[san]

It's interesting, I checked my '05 manual and that's what it says for 17" tires (Sport Package equipped cars), but my '03 manual says 30/35 for the same car. I wonder why the change.

Do both manuals talk about the same tire size for the 17"? Not sure if it makes a difference, but just a thought...


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[BMWCurves]

Do both manuals talk about the same tire size for the 17"? Not sure if it makes a difference, but just a thought...


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Yup. Both are the 330Ci ZSP sizes of:
Front - 225/45R17
Rear - 245/40R17

[stephenkirsh]

It's interesting, I checked my '05 manual and that's what it says for 17" tires (Sport Package equipped cars), but my '03 manual says 30/35 for the same car. I wonder why the change.

Higher inflated tires have less rolling resistance, gets better MPG. Maybe they made that change to up the MPG for testing, even though the EPA sticker didn't change.

[ELCID86]

What do you guys inflate your winter tires to? the door jam i think says 32 front, 38 rear but the winter winters are 17in and taller so not sure if that guidance should be followed.

I did 37 f/r :dunno


---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46fanatic

[san]

The recommended psi for sedan and coupe is quite different... Is it cause of difference in weight distribution??


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[stephenkirsh]

Pretty sure both cars are very close to the same. Very.

[BMWCurves]

The recommended psi for sedan and coupe is quite different... Is it cause of difference in weight distribution??


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Are they? You would think they would be the same since weight distribution is supposed to be 50/50 in both.

[NYRhockey]

Went to townfair tire today to get the winters mounted and was told they couldn't put them on because 2 of the tires were too worn. Not sure if they were trying to sell me new tires or if they are really worn. What do you guys think? these are 2 pictures of the same tire that i saw to be the most worn.

Also, even if i gave them the baldest tires ever why would they decline to put them on? liability i may get into an accident and blame them?

2382923830

[san]

Visually that looks quite worn...


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[Vas]

They look worn and have toe wear. Also that side of the tire is right on the wear indicator.

IMO I would still mount them and drive on them

[fredo]

Did they check the tread depth ?

[NYRhockey]

Would mounting the worn tires in the front be of any help or does it not matter? since it's rwd i'd figure get the best tires there.