my ZHP takes much longer to warm up than my my dad's 330

[stephenkirsh]

So I've had my ZHP for 2 months now. I've noticed that it takes much longer to warm up to full operating temp than my 325 as well as my dad's normal 330.

For example, I have a ~15 mile freeway commute from class (at night). By the time I get home the temperature is just barely on the little icon in the middle of the temperature gauge, but I can tell it's not fully centered, and therefore, not fully warmed up.

Any thoughts on this?

[Avetiso]

New thermostat, unless it's been replaced recently. OEM only!

[Johal E32]

^Yep.

Although anywhere between the two lines is considered "warm"

My 323 has a sticky t-stat because it will warm up then cool down to the blue all on its own again. I'm sure this doesn't help my mpg :/

[danewilson77]

New thermostat, unless it's been replaced recently. OEM only!


^Yep.

Although anywhere between the two lines is considered "warm"

My 323 has a sticky t-stat because it will warm up then cool down to the blue all on its own again. I'm sure this doesn't help my mpg :/

This.

Sent from my S4 > Mason, OH

[BRGcoopahS]

I've noticed this winter my temp gauge will stay between the blue and 50% a lot longer than last winter. I really doubted that all of a sudden it doesn't warm up quickly. Your problem as well as mine is probably a thermostat.

[stephenkirsh]

Interesting. I'll have to look. The hoses going to the thermostat and the like all look quite new... doesn't mean the thermostat got changed, though!

With the holidays coming up and the finals for my last MBA semester, time to do car work is pretty limited. Is this something I can drive around on without worrying for a bit?

[stephenkirsh]

*edit*
double post.

I'm getting a lot of "database errors" when posting :(

[Avetiso]

*edit*
double post.

I'm getting a lot of "database errors" when posting :(
Same. Database errors and double posts everywhere.

[LivesNearCostco]

Should be okay for a while. Besides hurting your gas mileage, it might prevent your oil from burning off extra moisture as well, but if you've got a 15-mile drive the oil is probably getting hot enough.

If you're replacing your thermostat and the expansion tank is original, replace that too! It may be possible to see the label on the side of the ET with a mirror to figure out if it's original or when it was replaced.

Interesting. I'll have to look. The hoses going to the thermostat and the like all look quite new... doesn't mean the thermostat got changed, though!

With the holidays coming up and the finals for my last MBA semester, time to do car work is pretty limited. Is this something I can drive around on without worrying for a bit?

[stephenkirsh]

How does it impact fuel mileage?

[Avetiso]

How does it impact fuel mileage?
Runs richer in an attempt to warm up the engine, I believe.

[stephenkirsh]

Makes sense. Would also explain my abysmal mileage around town… but then again, that just might be a crappy trafficy town with a bigger engine and shorter geared diff compared to my 325.

I get about 16-17mpg around town driving very conservatively.

[Hermes]

If you're gonna change the expansion tank, make sure to change the mounting plate, upper and lower hoses at the same time. Honestly, full coolant system is the way to go so you don't have to go back for WP and radiator

[stephenkirsh]

When I had my PPI done before purchase, about 2 months ago, they said the pump looked fairly new. I know the belt looks brand new. Pullies look good.

Maybe they just didn't do the thermostat?

My dad knows a BMW tech, and he's actually coming to do some work on our cars this weekend at my parents' home. I'll work w/ him to see what all needs to be done.

[RITmusic2k]

FYI, you can enter into a diagnostic mode on your instrument cluster and get a coolant temperature readout to confirm your suspicions.

Press and hold the odometer reset stalk (the odometer will zero out immediately, but don't worry; as long as you don't let go, the numbers will restore later) until you see the display change to 'Test 01' or similar. After letting it go, repeatedly click the stalk until the number increments to test 19. At this point, wait a beat and you'll see the display toggle between 'on' and 'off' repeatedly. Press the stalk once more when the display says 'off'. You have now unlocked all test access and are back at Test 01. Click the stalk again until you're up to test 7, and wait. You are now in the first of four subsets of Test 7, which is the one you want. It displays current coolant temperature in °C.

My car has a stuck-open thermostat as well, and it takes a fair amount of work to get it up to temperature. These cars usually run around 97°C; mine sits at around 77-84 depending on how fast I'm moving. Just so you know, though, a stuck thermostat alone is not enough to account for fuel mileage as poor as yours. I'm still pulling 21 in the city despite mine. For starters, check your intake boot for tears, and your air filter for cleanliness.

[stephenkirsh]

thanks for the tip.