OEM TPMS Retrofit- The full package doityourself

[JupiterBMW]

Ok, this DIY retrofit writeup is for the full TPMS package, from the coding to the reset button, to the wiring into the DSC module. Each part of this setup will get its own set of steps. First, a brief description. The OEM TPMS setup does not involve sensors in each wheel, making it fairly easy to retrofit. Also, changing wheels/tires doesn't affect the system at all. The system relies on wheel speed and compares the revolutions of each wheel with each other to determine if one wheel has an incorrect tire pressure. More or less revolutions will occur based on higher/lower tire pressures. The system isn't the most high tech, but it does work, and I can confirm, fairly well. :thumbsup

So, lets get started!

Part 1: The Coding
Using coding software, you will need to access a couple of modules and make a few changes. There are 4 lines of code needed in the KMB module to get the TPMS system functional. The beauty of this mod is that technically, once the coding is done, the system is functional and you can stop there! The wiring and reset button are only needed for resetting the light/system. But, you can still use the system to monitor your tire pressures. If the light goes off, you'll just need to visit a dealer that can reset the light for you. But I digress... Coding the KMB module, you'll need to find each of these line items. The default setting is in parentheses, you'll need to change them to the other setting.

Description~String~Options (Default)
1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
2. Can-Bus Tire Pressure Control (RDC)~CAN_RDC~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
3. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS) Warning Gong~AKUSTIK_RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
4. Output Device for tire pressure control system (rdks) warning~WARN_MEDIUM_RDKS~gong / (piezo)

Once this is done, you'll need to code one line in the MK60 module. The line is below.

Description~String~Options (Default)
1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~REIFENDRUCKWARNSYSTEM~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)

Ok, so the coding is done! Now, when you turn your key to the on position, or start the car, you'll see the TPMS warning light first light up amber, and then red, before going out. Good news, the system is active. Now the next part!

Part 2: The reset button
The button is located on the center console, in the same button panel as the heated seats, DSC and HK button that we already have. Your individual setup may vary based on the options of your car, so ideally, the replacement switch setup you locate will have all the other switches you currently have, in the same location, with the added TPMS button. Something to note, the panel you get will most likely be from an M3, so it'll also have the sport button, something that we cannot make use of, at least not without doing the Sprintbooster/sport button mod. But that's a whole other DIY! So, I digress, you'll need to get another button panel with the TPMS reset button. Example below (this is what mine looks like as well). The TPMS reset button is the one in the middle.

10606

For the following part, the steps only reflect cars with OEM navigation as they will be different for cars without nav. For my car (with navigation) the steps are as follows. I didn't include many pics as none are really needed.

1. Remove shift knob and shift boot.
2. Remove the trim around the shift knob/boot, two philips screws. Don't forget to disconnect the two window switches.
3. Take a small flatblade screwdriver or thin pry tool (preferred) and pry the HVAC controls out of place from one side. The unit is only clipped into place, but it does have 4-5 connectors on the back. Gently pry it out so as not to damage it/the dash, and then disconnect all the connectors. There are no two alike, so no need to mark them.
4. Remove 4 philips screws that hold the lower trim piece in place. Two are hidden at the top, under where the HVAC controls were. Two are at the bottom, under where the shifter trim was. Remove all 4. Pull the trim out, but not too far.
5. There are two connectors on the back of the switch panel, disconnect them.
6. Remove two small Torx screws and remove the switch panel.
7. Install your new switch panel.
8. Complete part 3 now if possible, otherwise it'll be more work later to disassemble the center console for access to the switch panel connectors again for the wiring. Otherwise, reassemble the center console, knowing that your new switches won't do anything for the time being.

Part 3: The wiring
This is the part needed to actually make the reset button function. Its a lot of work for a mod that honestly won't get used much, but its still nice to have, and if you're going to do it, might as well do it all and do it well. That being said, basically, an additional wire is needed that runs from the reset button to the DSC module. The wire has to be ran from the large flat connector at the switch panel, through the dash, to the drivers side, through the firewall, and then up into the DSC module connector. Luckily, there is a ventilation port for the DME housing, so it makes for a very easy location to run the wire. Personally, I started at the DME and ran back to the switch panel. Before starting any work on the car, you'll need to make a jumper wire with the correct pins on either end. I received clipped connectors from someone parting a car. It was easiest as the connectors were already crimped on, all I needed to do was take one pin from each connector and then insert about 6' of wire in between to make the wire needed.

1. Pop the hood, and then remove the cabin air filter and housing. Once you remove the filter cover and filter, you'll see 4 Torx screws. Remove them and the whole housing will come out. Make sure to unclip the wire loom that runs across the front of the housing.
2. Remove the heat/splash shield on the drivers side that protects the DSC and brake master cylinder. This will help you access the DSC plug. Pic shows it in place below.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1204.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1204.jpg.html)

3. Disconnect the DSC plug from the unit. It is a large plug, down low on the front side of the DSC module, set at an angle. The tab on the upper end of the plug will need to be pulled to slide the plug off. Like many other plugs on the E46, it is a slide lock style connection. Pic below.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1203.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1203.jpg.html)

4. Once the plug is disconnected, pull it up a bit to gain better access. On the same end as the slide lock, you'll see a blue tab, you'll need to slide that out as well. This blue portion locks the pins into place on the connector. Sliding it out will open the port for the needed wire terminal to be inserted.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1199.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1199.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1201.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1201.jpg.html)

5. Locate pin #40. You'll see on the face of the connector that there are small numbers, depicting the pin numbers. If you count back from the end pin (numbered 46) you'll find that #40 should be empty. Ensuring the same hole, flip the connector over. You'll find an empty rubber grommet in the hole. Remove it.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1200.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1200.jpg.html)

Ok, so this is one end of where the wire needs to be installed. Like I said, I started here and ran it back up to the center console. To fish through the firewall, you'll need some sort of cable or a metal coat hanger. I used a steel cable. If you look under the dash, you'll find the hole to fish the wire through.

[JupiterBMW]

Ok, so now that we have our starting location for the wire, we need to actually get it ran.

6: Using a metal coat hanger or steel cable, you'll need to fish the wire through the firewall. Start by looking up under the dash. On the driver's side, you'll need to remove the trim panel where the OBD plug is. Once you do this, you'll see a large white plastic piece. There is a small half circle shaped hole in it. This is a ventilation port for the DME box in the engine bay. This is where we'll pass the wire through. Now, go up into the engine bay and remove the 5 Torx screws covering the DME. If you look down at the back side, you'll see the same hole. Shine a light from one side and look from the other to find the exact spot. Its really quite easy. See the pics below.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1189.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1189.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1191.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1191.jpg.html)

7. Now, you'll need to tape the wire to the coat hanger/steel cable and fish it through the hole. Make sure you send it the correct way so that the correct terminals are on each end and the wire isn't "backwards".

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1190.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1190.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1194.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1194.jpg.html)

8. Once the wire is through the firewall, you'll want to route it through the rubber sealing grommet that exits the DME box. This is the best way to exit the DME box so that you can keep the watertight seal on the box. I chose the same wire loom that goes to the DSC plug so that I can run the wire right along this loom, keeping it as neat/stealthy as possible. To do this, make the smallest hole in the grommet and then push the wire through it. Tuck the wire down to the DSC plug and ensure enough slack. Once this is done, you can put the DME box cover back on.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1195.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1195.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1196.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1196.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1197.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1197.jpg.html)

9. Now its time to insert the terminal into the DSC plug. Remember, you already pulled the rubber plug out of pin 40, and this is the same plug that the new wire terminal will be inserted into. Locate the pin 40 hole and insert the wire terminal. Ensure it is inserted in the correct orientation and make sure it is installed all the way. Also make sure the rubber grommet is pushed in to seal the wire as well.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1200.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1200.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1202.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1202.jpg.html)

10. Once that is done, slide the blue piece back into the connector plug. Verify the wire you inserted is tight and will not pull out. If all is secure, reinstall the DSC plug and slide the black locking piece back into place.

11. Reinstall the heat shield around the DSC/brake master cylinder, and then reinstall the cabin air filter housing.

12. Now its time to run the wire to the button. Get up under the dash and find the wire you ran through the firewall. Tuck it up under the dash and into the center console. You might need to use the same coat hanger, but fish it into the left side of the center console. There is a gap in there you can pull the wire through.

13. Once you get the wire pulled up to the center console where the connectors are, you can put the under dash trim piece back up. Verify the wire is tucked and secured so that it does not fall down in the future, possibly getting caught up in the pedals.

14. Now its time to insert the terminal into the plug for the switch panel. There are two connectors for the panel, you need the larger flat one. There is a black outer piece and the brown inner piece. Slide the black piece off which will expose the terminals a bit more.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1211.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1211.jpg.html)

15. On this connector, you're looking for pin #2. Its the one just next to the large green wire at the bottom. You can see where I nicked up the connector a bit. You'll want to slide the terminal into the corresponding hole and press it until it is all the way in the hole and the little metal tab locks it into place. Again, ensure correct orientation and that the wire is secure.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1212.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1212.jpg.html)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k166/jdinisio/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1213.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/user/jdinisio/media/2003%20330i%20ZHP%20Pics/TPMS%20Install%20Pics/IMG_1213.jpg.html)

16. Once this is done, reinstall the black outer piece onto the connector. From here, you can reconnect the center console switches and HVAC controls. Reinstall all interior trim pieces and ensure all screws are secure.

17. With everything complete and reassembled, turn the key to position 2. You should see the TPMS indicator light in amber, then red, and then go out.

18. Now, press and hold the TPMS button until the light on the dash illuminates in amber. Release the button.

19. Press and hold it again and eventually the light will go out. The system is now reset. Obviously, you want to do this with correct, even tire pressures.

Congrats, you did it!

[Tnhl1989]

Insert reply here (on hold).

[cakM3]

Jon,

Thanks for taking the time to post a detailed DIY for those who desired to make this happen! :thumbsup


Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD using Tapatalk 2

[JupiterBMW]

Thanks for the replies guys. It is with thanks to you two (Tony and Charlie) that I was able to complete this.

[az3579]

Excellent DIY. Great job.

[JupiterBMW]

Thanks BP. I wish I had taken more pics toward the end, but I was somewhat pressed for time as I was trying to handle my little girl too.

[derbo]

Great job Joop! :)

[Mike2003ZHP]

This is a great thread, I just got back from the tire shop to have a screw removed and patched only to find that I had driven on a flat tire long enough to grind the inside wall down and thus ruin a relatively new tire. After reading this thread though, I don't think I'm up to the DIY.

Any idea on the labor/materials for this? I'm guessing 2 hours labor? Maybe $100 in parts if I can source the switch panel??

[JupiterBMW]

The switch panel can be sourced for about $100, so plan on $125 which will include any electrical/soldering supplies should you need them. Labor hours, I'd plan 4 hours, took me longer as I was trying to figure it out as I went...


iPhone 5S. Tapatalk Pro. BOOM

[SoCalZman]

Man 4 hours? Bummer

[330i ZHP]

nice write-up

[cakM3]

Awesome write up Jon! :thumbsup

[Hermes]

Almost done

13886

13887

13888

13889

13890

I'll deal with wiring the sport button later

[elfer]

First class write-up, JupiterBMW!

I'm in the middle of doing this to my car. I've already wired the Switch Console button [using part number 61 13 0 008 998], and run the wire through to the engine bay, but I'm having the devil of a job identifying the part number for the bushing/wire that goes into the DSC connector.

So far I've tried three different bushing/wires from the ETK but none have been correct. Are you able to tell me which is the correct one to order?

All I know is it's NOT 61 13 0 007 570, 61 13 0 005 199 nor 61 13 0 006 624!

[elfer]

First class write-up, JupiterBMW!

I'm in the middle of doing this to my car. I've already wired the Switch Console button [using part number 61 13 0 008 998], and run the wire through to the engine bay, but I'm having the devil of a job identifying the part number for the bushing/wire that goes into the DSC connector.

So far I've tried three different bushing/wires from the ETK but none have been correct. Are you able to tell me which is the correct one to order?

All I know is it's NOT 61 13 0 007 570, 61 13 0 005 199 nor 61 13 0 006 624!

No replies but, in case anyone else looking to do this should also search and find this thread, I thought I'd come back with an update. I've just received delivery of yet another likely looking ETK part. So I can now add that it's not 12 52 0 007 172 either.

Still looking...

[JupiterBMW]

I received the DSC connector plug and about 6" of the wiring loom from a wrecked car, and just pulled a pin/reused it from there. I would have no idea how to order the correct wiring pin...

[elfer]

Finding a used part is probably a sensible way to go. Thanks for that, and again I commend you for the excellent write up!

If I ever do come across the part number though I'll be sure to come back here and post it, just in case it helps someone down the road.

[marcineddie]

Hello everybody,
i try to find a proper BMW part number and think i've found now.

Switch Console button: 61138369634
DSC connector: 61138364846 with 61138372628

and you can to buy all of them in BMW dealer shop (but sometimes packed of 10 pieces)


pls verify

[aridain]

For the DSC connector you want the smaller contact and grommet.

Contact: 61-13-6-901-726
Grommet: 61-13-8-366-245

[mauro23]

Hello guys,

old topic refresh :) Thanks JupiterBMW for this very nice DYI. I tried to manage it, did the coding part and wire the pins in between the button and the DSC connector. Coding part seems to work, i get the amber/red light and then off when i put my ignition key in position 2 correctly everytime. But when i push the TPMS reset button, nothing happen on my dashboard. I don't know exactly where to look. Does INPA will let me know if the button is pressed or not through the cable so i can see if there is a failure there ?

[JupiterBMW]

You won't see anything. The button is only there to reset the light if it comes up. To fully test the retrofit, take the car for a drive and then let some air out of one of the tires. Drive another little bit and see that the light comes on. Go to local station, refill the tire, and then press and hold the button to reset the light.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[mauro23]

I thought it was something like that, but i wasn't sure. I will test that tomorrow and let you know, so it will be an additional confirmation to this DYI, unless you really experimented it that way ?

[JupiterBMW]

I thought it was something like that, but i wasn't sure. I will test that tomorrow and let you know, so it will be an additional confirmation to this DYI, unless you really experimented it that way ?

That's how I tested the system with my car.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[SoCalZman]

I thought it was something like that, but i wasn't sure. I will test that tomorrow and let you know, so it will be an additional confirmation to this DYI, unless you really experimented it that way ?

on a scale of 1-10 how hard was this for you to do?

[mauro23]

That's how I tested the system with my car.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

Thanks for the feedback, i will try the same tomorrow.



on a scale of 1-10 how hard was this for you to do?


Well, i think it depends how use you are with retrofit. I did a lot of work on my previous car, so i am a bit used to wire/solder/and so on ...
I would say quite easy as there is only 1 wire, the only difficulty is to find out the good pin and then it is quite easy.
The good one are :
Contact (both DSC and switch panel fitted for me): 61136901726
Grommet: 61138366245

[SoCalZman]

Well, i think it depends how use you are with retrofit. I did a lot of work on my previous car, so i am a bit used to wire/solder/and so on ...
I would say quite easy as there is only 1 wire, the only difficulty is to find out the good pin and then it is quite easy.
The good one are :
Contact (both DSC and switch panel fitted for me): 61136901726
Grommet: 61138366245

Im okay with turning a wrench but I have no experience with wiring. I have to wait for Jon to visit SoCal so he can help me do this, or someone nearby who has done it. haha. Ive wanted to do it for a long time though.

[mauro23]

You can't do a mess with that retrofit, it is only one cable. If you follow the guide step by step and be careful while inserting pins in connectors that they are in the right direction, you should make it.

[mauro23]

Feedback from my test.

I reduced the pressure of a tire and went for a small ride. After 1-2 miles, the light went red, so it seems to run fine .
When back at the garage, i set the pressure of my tire back to:the good value and tried to reset the light but it doesn't work at all..

I checked the wire and the pins. I checked my coding value tried to reset them and put them back to active, i checked with the control panel of another car having tpms, not working either.
I am running out of ideas.. What could be wrong ?
The wire button and connection must be good because i saw that dsc is triggering an error if the reset button is pressed for more than 120seconds, i tried and i got the error.
The only thing not working is the reset.

Any idea please ? Could it be the version of the software that my dsc is having? My car productin date is 2003/04.

[mauro23]

No idea about this problem ? I tried also to change my VO number and add the S251, but not sure if it is the one concerning the DSC TPMS system, but it still doesn't work to reset the light.
It's a pitty, the system reacts well and saw that i had a low pressure tire, but i can't reset it ... That's my only problem so far ...
I checked, i do have the MK60 DSC Module, i well wired the pin number 2 of the control panel with the 40 one of my DSC Plug and the wire looks good, i tested with a multimeter if it is not broken somewhere.
The only thing i am not sure, if my car doesn't requires an additional code as it is a diesel one and/or if i need to adapt the VO number, but it seems not to be S251, but there is also S265 and S2VB which i haven't tested ...

[mauro23]

Hello guys,

i know, it is a long time now but i am still trying to fix the issue i have to reset my RPA (TPMS) system.
So, after my last post, i went to a lot of forum searching about information for that retrofit, to understand why it is working for some persons and not for others having the same DSC MK60 module.
There is what i found :
it will only work if you have a ZHP E46. Even if you have the same DSC MK60 module, activate it through NCSExper and cable the wire, a "normal" E46 won't have the possibility to reset the RPA system if the light goes red. The reason seems to come from the factory software programmed in the DSC module which doesn't read the button status for a "normal' E46 and does for a ZHP even if you don't have the RPA system in your option list from the beginning.
So hopefully, i found a way to reset it through INPA, and it works well.

Right now, i am trying to see if there is a way for me to flash my DSC module through winkfp with the same software as the "normal" E46 having the option from factory. i haven't found somebody who tried it yet. So if somebody here have an idea, let me know. Otherwise, i will let you know as soon as i found something.
@jupiterBMW, i think you should add in your first post that for the moment, this will only work if you have a ZHP version.

[TLL0003]

Sorry to dig up an old post, but I have a couple of questions. What type of wire are most people using from the button to the DSC? Also, half of the pictures in the original post are now missing. Does anyone have a copy of these laying around anywhere?

[mauro23]

Sorry to dig up an old post, but I have a couple of questions. What type of wire are most people using from the button to the DSC? Also, half of the pictures in the original post are now missing. Does anyone have a copy of these laying around anywhere?


Hello, best wishes for 2016 first of all and sorry for the late answer.

Basically, i used a 0.5mm² wire for this button (i guess it is 50gauge, is that possible ?) It is anyway a pretty thinny wire. You can use the WDS website to determine that. On every schema, you can see the type of wire you need to use at least.
Good luck.

[JupiterBMW]

Hi there... As for the wire needed, any sort of generic multi-strand copper wire of approx 16-20 gauge will work just fine. The wire I used was a spool purchased from Radio Shack.

To the post above, 0.5mm2 is NOT 50 gauge... I don't believe there is anything as small as 50 gauge... To give you an idea, typical Cat 6 cable (ethernet cable) has 8 strands. Each strand is 24 gauge, 23 gauge for heavier duty stuff.

[TLL0003]

Hi there... As for the wire needed, any sort of generic multi-strand copper wire of approx 16-20 gauge will work just fine. The wire I used was a spool purchased from Radio Shack.

To the post above, 0.5mm2 is NOT 50 gauge... I don't believe there is anything as small as 50 gauge... To give you an idea, typical Cat 6 cable (ethernet cable) has 8 strands. Each strand is 24 gauge, 23 gauge for heavier duty stuff.

Sounds good, thanks for the response. I used a section of speaker wire which is a solid copper core ~18 gauge. I completed the coding from the first post here "Description~String~Options (Default)
1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
2. Can-Bus Tire Pressure Control (RDC)~CAN_RDC~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
3. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS) Warning Gong~AKUSTIK_RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
4. Output Device for tire pressure control system (rdks) warning~WARN_MEDIUM_RDKS~gong / (piezo)

Once this is done, you'll need to code one line in the MK60 module. The line is below.

Description~String~Options (Default)
1. Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~REIFENDRUCKWARNSYSTEM~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)"

Now upon start-up, I get the yellow and amber tire pressure icon on the dash, but nothing happens when I press the tire pressure reset button. The wire seemed to plug into the terminals perfectly, so I am wondering if there is something else that I need to code. I have seen somewhere else that I need to add $251 to the vehicle order. Can anyone confirm?

[JupiterBMW]

Look back in my original post, you might need to add to the vehicle order, but I can't recall.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[JupiterBMW]

Also, pressing the button shouldn't really do anything. The best test is to go drive the car, lower a tire pressure about 10psi, then drive some more. Within a mile at the most, the light should turn on. Refill the tire and then hold the button down to reset


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[TLL0003]

Also, pressing the button shouldn't really do anything. The best test is to go drive the car, lower a tire pressure about 10psi, then drive some more. Within a mile at the most, the light should turn on. Refill the tire and then hold the button down to reset


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

So I did this and it never set the sensor off. I was under the impression that pressing the button should give you a signal on the dash that the system reset even if you don't have a warning light.

[JupiterBMW]

Damn I don't remember. Do a search, I know I found the info when I did it, I didn't figure it out on my own that's for sure.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[JupiterBMW]

Ok, looked again... Did some searching, and yes, you do need to add $251 to your VO. Once you do that, you will need to update your modules and activate the lines that I mentioned in the original post...

Good luck.

[mauro23]

Sorry for the mistake about the wire of 50 gauge, i know better metric system :)
Anyway, be careful about the description of your problem, you might be in the same position as i had previously. This tutorial will only work with ZHP E46 version. I did a lot of research and test with my own installation, and it never worked with the button. However, you can reset easily the system with INPA and a K-Line cable. I also tried on a car equipped with the OEM TPMS option to push the button while the light was off, it should show yellow, then amber light and then goes off meaning that the learning values have been reseted. Be careful as well when lowering your tire pressure that you already drove some miles with the system activated but with the correct tire pressure, otherwise the learning value of the system will be calibrated on the wrong tire pressure. You have to remember that this system doesn't know when it get initialized if the tire pressure is set correctly, this is our concern.
Good luck

[TLL0003]

Ok, looked again... Did some searching, and yes, you do need to add $251 to your VO. Once you do that, you will need to update your modules and activate the lines that I mentioned in the original post...

Good luck.

Awesome, thank you very much for checking on this. I will get that done and retest.

[TLL0003]

Sorry for the mistake about the wire of 50 gauge, i know better metric system :)
Anyway, be careful about the description of your problem, you might be in the same position as i had previously. This tutorial will only work with ZHP E46 version. I did a lot of research and test with my own installation, and it never worked with the button. However, you can reset easily the system with INPA and a K-Line cable. I also tried on a car equipped with the OEM TPMS option to push the button while the light was off, it should show yellow, then amber light and then goes off meaning that the learning values have been reseted. Be careful as well when lowering your tire pressure that you already drove some miles with the system activated but with the correct tire pressure, otherwise the learning value of the system will be calibrated on the wrong tire pressure. You have to remember that this system doesn't know when it get initialized if the tire pressure is set correctly, this is our concern.
Good luck

Good to know and thanks for the response. I am working with a ZHP so I'm thinking it should work. I'll update when I add $251 to the VO

[TLL0003]

Ok, so I have confirmed that the system works now after adding $251 to the VO. I can reset it using INPA, but the reset button in the car still does not work. I used a solid core wire instead of a multistrand copper wire. Would this affect its functionality?

[JupiterBMW]

It shouldn't. I'm guessing you don't have the wire connected correctly at one end, or in the correct pins. I would verify those, and check for continuity with a meter.


Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus using two hands to hold the damn thing!

[mauro23]

Could you give more detail about your car as well ? Especially which year it is ?

[TLL0003]

Could you give more detail about your car as well ? Especially which year it is ?

Sure thing, it's an 05 330i ZHP. I used a solid core I believe 18 gauge speaker wire for the reset button.

I will test it with a meter and see what I can find.

[mauro23]

Weird, should work in your case. I would check the wire connections as well with a meter and be sure that the pins are correctly inserted in the plugs

[terraphantm]

Any chance your DSC module was replaced with a non-ZHP unit at some point? What coding index does NCS Expert report when you read the MK60 module?

[TLL0003]

Any chance your DSC module was replaced with a non-ZHP unit at some point? What coding index does NCS Expert report when you read the MK60 module?

No the DSC module hasn't been replaced. The TPMS is functioning properly, just the reset button isn't working. I am able to reset using INPA. I'm not 100% sure I know what you mean by what coding index NCS reports, but I will get my computer and check.

[terraphantm]

I just had a thought - are you sure you have pin 2? Since the pins aren't labeled, I can imagine it's pretty easy to get them confused.

For the record, this one is pin 2:

http://i.imgur.com/PKQmRki.jpg

[TLL0003]

[QUOTE=terraphantm;467405]I just had a thought - are you sure you have pin 2? Since the pins aren't labeled, I can imagine it's pretty easy to get them confused.

It is possible and that is the next thing I am going to check. I'm fairly confident that I have the correct pin, but its definitely possible

[JupiterBMW]

Original two posts updated... I uploaded the pics again to my Photobucket (some were attached direct, others on imageshack...?!?) and they will now stay in an album just for this retrofit...

I also included a few other pics that I didn't have before, just to help...

Good luck guys.

[wsmeyer]

Just double checking how you are doing the reset.

You have to be stopped or going very slow. Push and hold the button and after 2 seconds or so the yellow light on the dash lights. You then drive the car straight and after about 50 yards the light will go off and you're done.

[TLL0003]

Just double checking how you are doing the reset.

You have to be stopped or going very slow. Push and hold the button and after 2 seconds or so the yellow light on the dash lights. You then drive the car straight and after about 50 yards the light will go off and you're done.

I get no response when pressing the button. It doesn't matter if I'm driving or parked or how long I hold it. It just doesn't seem to be making a connection.

[TLL0003]

Just an update, I took apart the button inside the car and verified that I was in the correct pin(#2). Everything looks fine there, so the next step is getting back in the DSC module

[JupiterBMW]

Ugh, I wish we were closer so I could help with this. Unfortunately, I don't have my coding setup for the E46 anymore... I wish my memory was better...

Keep at it, if I figured it out, anyone can!

[Sockethead]

Can you do a continuity check on the wire while you're in there? might as well check/verify from end to end

Joop thanks for updating the thread and putting the pics back. We all appreciate it...

[JupiterBMW]

I wish I could do more... :)

[TLL0003]

Can you do a continuity check on the wire while you're in there? might as well check/verify from end to end

Joop thanks for updating the thread and putting the pics back. We all appreciate it...

That was my plan while I was working today, but I ran out of daylight. Next chance I get I'll do a continuity check.

And thank you all for the help! I'm determined to get this thing working. It should be fairly simply I just can't figure out what's gojng on

[Sockethead]

It's important that threads like this are maintained... so many times they are forgotten about

[terraphantm]

That was my plan while I was working today, but I ran out of daylight. Next chance I get I'll do a continuity check.

And thank you all for the help! I'm determined to get this thing working. It should be fairly simply I just can't figure out what's gojng on

Looks like we have the same problem. I just wired everything myself, and the button isn't doing anything. Coding worked fine and I'm positive I wired it correctly

[TLL0003]

Looks like we have the same problem. I just wired everything myself, and the button isn't doing anything. Coding worked fine and I'm positive I wired it correctly

What kind of wire did you use?

[terraphantm]

20 gauge stranded

[TLL0003]

20 gauge stranded

I used a solid core wire, but it shouldn't matter At all

[terraphantm]

In INPA, if you go to the MK60 module and click Ident, what does it show for BMW Part Number and Coding Index? And can someone who has this functional check the same thing?

Mine is showing as 6765452 and coding index as 12.

Which... doing a little more research, looks like that module is for the non-TPMS version, even though all ZHPs were supposed to get the TPMS version. I don't think mine was changed since the build date matches the car.

Damn.

[Sockethead]

Hmm... going to be watching this... I have the button panel for this mod but never got around to installing and coding. I think I'll have to wait and see now. My laptop is having issues so I can't check mine at the moment.

[TLL0003]

In INPA, if you go to the MK60 module and click Ident, what does it show for BMW Part Number and Coding Index? And can someone who has this functional check the same thing?

Mine is showing as 6765452 and coding index as 12.

Which... doing a little more research, looks like that module is for the non-TPMS version, even though all ZHPs were supposed to get the TPMS version. I don't think mine was changed since the build date matches the car.

Damn.

What year is your ZHP?

[terraphantm]

2004

If I'm right about the issue, looks like the only option would be to replace the DSC module with the right one... which is a royal pain in the ass. Guess I'll install my original switch panel for now. At least the wiring is already done if I do ever decide to retrofit the DSC module.

[TLL0003]

In INPA, if you go to the MK60 module and click Ident, what does it show for BMW Part Number and Coding Index? And can someone who has this functional check the same thing?

Mine is showing as 6765452 and coding index as 12.

Which... doing a little more research, looks like that module is for the non-TPMS version, even though all ZHPs were supposed to get the TPMS version. I don't think mine was changed since the build date matches the car.

Damn.

I just looked at INPA and I'm showing the same as you BMW part #6765452 and coding index 12. I have an 05 ZHP and can not get the reset button to work....

[terraphantm]

I just looked at INPA and I'm showing the same as you BMW part #6765452 and coding index 12. I have an 05 ZHP and can not get the reset button to work....

Yep. Sounds like our cars don't have the right DSC module. I know it's not really worth it, but I'm sorta tempted to install the right module.

[JupiterBMW]

I really wish I still had access to my old ZHP, I would totally dig into it and work on helping you guys resolve this... Sorry I don't, not sure what I can to help!

[terraphantm]

Ha well I decided to go ahead and buy a module. I'll report how it goes when I get around to installing it (probably not until it warms up)

http://i.imgur.com/fS8BwE9l.jpg

Paid $80 for the module. The install is a little involved, but nothing I can't do (drain brake fluid from reservoir, disconnect hard lines, pull old module, install new module, reconnect hardlines, and use computer to bleed everything). I figure I can probably get most of my money back by selling the stock pieces.

[TLL0003]

Where did you buy the module? I wonder why some ZHPs seem to not have to correct one

[terraphantm]

Where did you buy the module? I wonder why some ZHPs seem to not have to correct one

Got it off eBay. Came from a Z4, but it's the same part as what came with the TPMS E46s.

[TLL0003]

Got it off eBay. Came from a Z4, but it's the same part as what came with the TPMS E46s.

If you can, take some pictures of the install. I'd be curious to know what all goes into exchanging them.

[SoCalZman]

Where did you buy the module? I wonder why some ZHPs seem to not have to correct one

Maybe it has something to do with the year or option packages? Jon, what year was your ZHP?

Is there a way to look at this module and its part number easily? If so, where is it? My car is a 2005

[terraphantm]

Maybe it has something to do with the year or option packages? Jon, what year was your ZHP?

Is there a way to look at this module and its part number easily? If so, where is it? My car is a 2005

Not easy to see the physical part number. Maybe with a mirror.

Easy to check with INPA however

[TLL0003]

Got it off eBay. Came from a Z4, but it's the same part as what came with the TPMS E46s.

Any luck installing the new module?

[terraphantm]

Any luck installing the new module?

Haven't had a chance to get to it.

[terraphantm]

Okay, so I got around to installing the DSC module. Mechanically, it's fairly simple, but a bit tedious. You have to:

1) Drain as much fluid from the brake reservoir as possible
2) Remove the brake reservoir
3) Remove the master cylinder
4) Disconnect all the brake lines going to the DSC module, undo a 10mm bolt holding the bracket down, and pull the module out.

If you got a complete DSC module, just swap the bracket onto the new module (3 10mm screws). If you want to reuse your old DSC pump/block, undo the two T25 screws going through, pull the electronic module off, and then install the new electronic module. I ended up doing this since the pump/block on my eBay unit didn't look to be in the best shape (rust).

Reinstall everything in the reverse order; make sure you don't cross thread the lines when reinstalling them into the DSC block

Next up is coding the module. This is easy enough, just recode the module to its defaults using NCS Expert
You'll probably have an error stored for the steering angle sensor / VIN. I wasn't able to clear this with NCS Expert, INPA, or Tool32. I had to fire up DIS and go through the "VIN Learning" procedure to get that error to go away.

Finally you have to bleed the brakes.
1) Bleed all 4 brakes. You'll get a ton of air coming through the lines, but eventually it'll clear up
2) Fire up DIS, go to function selection, and find the DSC functions and pick "ventilation"
3) Follow the instructions it gives you. If all goes well, your new DSC module should be installed and you'll now have a functional TPMS button

[nextelbuddy]

so I I tried to perform this over the holiday with some success but some questions.

first i have a 2003 sedan ZHP 6 speed.

i read my DSC module via INPA and it is MK60 v1.05, BMW Part # 6763959

I also have an E46 M3 cluster in my car as well.

i had no idea that the TPMS/RDC system is different between M3 and ZHPs.

so i went ahead with the retrofit and read the KMB module (again i didnt know the KMB was the cluster) and I went to modify the 4 lines and 2 lines werent even present. so I added them manually and flashed it back to the KMB. then I modified the MK60 TRC file and flashed that as well.

then restarted car in position 2 and the TPMS light came on in my M3 cluster but it was YELLOW which means malfunction.

I had a Switch panel from an M3 that has sport button and TPMS button and i went ahead and wired that to pin 40 on the DSC module.

plugged everything in and tried to press and hold TPMS button and nothing would happen. I figured it was because I had a differnet DSC part number or didnt update the VO in NCS....

i went and watched a show and kept thinking about everything.

fired up WDS and read pinouts of the switch panel in E46 M3 vs standard E46..

in the M3 the switch panel TPMS button actually goes to the DME according to the WDS.. but when I looked at the DME pinouts in WDS.. i could not find any reference of an input from switch panel at all in regards to TPMS.. i only saw the sport button pinouts for 15 and 16 on x60004


so then I plugged back in my old ZHP cluster and read the KMB again and this time i did see all 4 lines from the first post.. i modified those values and flashed them to my KMB again.

turned ignition off and back on.. this time my ZHP cluster flashed the TPMS indicator in red/yellow and turned off... then I press and held the TPMS button and i saw a yellow warning light... then pressing and holding the button again made it go away.


i plugged back in the M3 cluster which has that modified KMB file with the extra lines added (which I assume were not supposed to be added since the systems are different)

i saw the TPMS light flash on and then off... i press and held the TPMS button again and saw the light turn YELLOW and stay on and then i press and held it again and it turned off.


i will try driving the car tomorrow and see if the light comes back on and gets stuck in a state where it wont go away again... if that happens then I will throw back in the ZHP cluster since its already coded properly and see what happens with that. if it works fine then im going to have to figure out what i need to do when I perform my S54 swap with the S54 DME.

I could flash the original KMB trc file back to the M3 cluster but once I do that.. the TPMS reset button is wired to pin 40 on the DSC module but WDS says that should be going to S54 DME but the WDS pinout for the DME doesnt show any inputs for TPMS..


Jupiter, do you have any thoughts on this?

[terraphantm]

On MK60 E46 M3s (2003+), it goes to DSC Pin 40 like on the non-Ms.

[nextelbuddy]

On MK60 E46 M3s (2003+), it goes to DSC Pin 40 like on the non-Ms.

ok well thats good to know then. sounds like I may not need to do anything just yet and will wait till my S54 swap is in with the MS54 and the cluster is coded properly before trying to diagnose and change things further.

thanks for replying!

[nextelbuddy]

so this morning fired up the car, tested that the light came on when holding the button, then went off when holding it again for 7+ seconds.

i drove it and the light came on immediately and then would not reset with the button.

im thinking its because I added unnecessary code to the M3 KMB module. code that was meant for the ZHP cluster which i didnt know at the time, does not exist in the M3 KMB so I added it.

i think with the M3 cluster all I had to do was enable the RDC system in the DSC module and thats it.

im going to flash back the original M3 KMB file tonight and retest.

[nextelbuddy]

Update..... Since the m3 cluster was already coded for TPMS, when I added the code for the zhp cluster... That caused a malfunction.

So basically if you have a zhp with an M3 cluster swap all you have to do is changed one line of code in the mk60 module and that's it. Then run the wire like Jupiter BMW said from the reset button to the module.

For me all I had to do was reflash the original M3 cluster code and all is good in my car TPMS system works properly now and the reset button Works flawlessly.

[Sockethead]

Update..... Since the m3 cluster was already coded for TPMS, when I added the code for the zhp cluster... That caused a malfunction.

So basically if you have a zhp with an M3 cluster swap all you have to do is changed one line of code in the mk60 module and that's it. Then run the wire like Jupiter BMW said from the reset button to the module.

For me all I had to do was reflash the original M3 cluster code and all is good in my car TPMS system works properly now and the reset button Works flawlessly.

Great work and good to know since I have an M3 cluster in my car

[terraphantm]

Great work and good to know since I have an M3 cluster in my car

In your case just treat it as if you have a ZHP cluster. I've coded your cluster to be recognized as a non-M cluster (for later clusters, this doesn't break anything, just makes it more convenient to use NCS Expert). So to enable the TPMS, you'd just add the option code to your VO and recode the cluster.

[rkneeshaw]

Ok I'm in the club.

2003 ZHP, build date 03/03.

DSC part number 6763959 code index 13

I DO have the option to enable the tire pressure warning system in my DSC MK60 module, and I have successfully enabled it.

At first I couldn't get the DSC MK60 module to accept the "aktiv" value for the TPMS, but I went back and added the $251 to my VO and then I was able to save the "aktiv" value to the DSC MK60 module.

Next I programmed the KMB module. However I was only able to get 3 out of the 4 settings to "stick". This one won't change to "gong", it keeps reverting back to "piezo":

4. Output Device for tire pressure control system (rdks) warning~WARN_MEDIUM_RDKS~gong / (piezo)

I still haven't made any hardware changes at all yet (no wiring, and I dont have the TPMS button panel yet), but I dont see why that would block this one setting from sticking in the KMB module.

I'll get around to making the hardware changes and then see if I can make another attempt at changing that one last value.

[terraphantm]

Sounds like you're using a standard expert mode profile rather than one that can make custom settings. That's why the settings only took after you added $251 (because it's coding to what the settings are supposed to be for that option code).

That value is supposed to be piezo anyway.

[rkneeshaw]

Terra, I think you're right, I think I did use a standard expert profile in NCS Expert. :blushing

[Oltorf]

OK, I know this is kind of an old thread but I'm having a heck of a time getting the socket to go into the DSC plug. I CANNOT get it to go in and I have no idea why. I got the correct socket - I verified on real oem. I tried it with the little pop-up locking thing facing out and facing in. I'm not sure which one is right. Either way, it won't go into place and click. Anyone know?

[nextelbuddy]

Got it off eBay. Came from a Z4, but it's the same part as what came with the TPMS E46s.

Not sure you will see this or not since its been a while but im curious how you check the part# of dsc module to see if it came on a TPMS car or not?'are you using realoem?

i have a module from a parts car and it has the # 6 765 454 but i cant see the coding index of it since the car is not able to talk to it and I dont have a bench setup for DSC modules yet.

[Overboost]

I would love to fire this discussion back up from some of the information goes back nearly 6 years. I am entertaining the retrofit and started my research and reading and all the information I find is setting the parameters to active in NCS Expert. However, has anyone used BMW Scanner 1.4 for RDC settings for the IKE and more to the point, can you reset the warning from within the RDC settings window. I have ordered the console reset switch but again, there seems to be confusion on what MK60 modules allow for resetting the light. Mine is a 2/2002 non-m, non-zhp MK60 if it matters.

34659

34658

[Overboost]

So went ahead today and coded everything in and I am waiting on my RPA button console panel so no wiring done yet.

IKE Index C06

Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
Can-Bus Tire Pressure Control (RDC)~CAN_RDC~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS) Warning Gong~AKUSTIK_RDKS~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)
Output Device for tire pressure control system (rdks) warning~WARN_MEDIUM_RDKS~gong / (piezo)


MK60 Index C04

Tire Pressure Control System (RDKS)~REIFENDRUCKWARNSYSTEM~aktiv / (nicht_aktiv)



Added FA code $251 to the VO
Reset RPA in INPA



First impressions:

Turn ignition on, TPMS lights yellow, then turns red, then goes out. 3 seconds later the TPMS lights yellow again. Stays yellow for 10 additional seconds and then goes out. I took it out for a 20 minute test drive and seems to work perfectly, no light at all. So from all my reading and research on this retrofit from this forum and others, I have not seen anyone with the same light sequence as mine nor has anyone posted about any error messages. Just wondering if anyone else has ever read or seen anything like what mine is doing?

Hooked up BMW Scanner 1.4 and read the error on ABS showing RPA Button missing.

34662

34663

[mauro23]

Hi Overboost,
i did that modification, but my button doesn't work since i have a non-ZHP DSC MK60. Maybe you got lucky that yours will work even if you don't have a ZHP E46 version, but in most of the case, the logic works, but the reset not. If you do have a fault because your button isn't present, i would assume that it will work in your case. The sequence is probably due to the absence of the button and the error you see in BMW Scanner.

[TLL0003]

Hi Overboost,
i did that modification, but my button doesn't work since i have a non-ZHP DSC MK60. Maybe you got lucky that yours will work even if you don't have a ZHP E46 version, but in most of the case, the logic works, but the reset not. If you do have a fault because your button isn't present, i would assume that it will work in your case. The sequence is probably due to the absence of the button and the error you see in BMW Scanner.

I have a 2005 ZHP and my reset doesn’t work either. Everything else does except the reset

[mauro23]

I have a 2005 ZHP and my reset doesn’t work either. Everything else does except the reset

Maybe they changed something in the very late E46 production , but I guess you are not part of the majority, don't you think?

[TLL0003]

Maybe they changed something in the very late E46 production , but I guess you are not part of the majority, don't you think?

I have no idea. I was surprised when it didn’t work on my car but it’s still nice to have the monitor even if I can’t reset it with the button

[Overboost]

Well to update my post, I think the 10 second second yellow icon is letting me know it isn't happy. I dropped the left rear to 15 PSI and drove it nearly 5 miles with no warning popping up on the dash. It would be safe to say it is not functioning properly. I could visibly see the low tire and a <50% ratio to the other 3. What I find odd is the light should remain on if the system is inoperative from my reading so I am a little puzzled. Here is a video of the key on sequence. Notice the initial yellow/red/off and then yellow for an additional 10 seconds.


https://youtu.be/bnz6dWDNs1o

[mauro23]

Well to update my post, I think the 10 second second yellow icon is letting me know it isn't happy. I dropped the left rear to 15 PSI and drove it nearly 5 miles with no warning popping up on the dash. It would be safe to say it is not functioning properly. I could visibly see the low tire and a <50% ratio to the other 3. What I find odd is the light should remain on if the system is inoperative from my reading so I am a little puzzled. Here is a video of the key on sequence. Notice the initial yellow/red/off and then yellow for an additional 10 seconds.


https://youtu.be/bnz6dWDNs1o

Not sure how much you drove with your car before trying with a flat tire but that might be the reason why it isn't working. You have to know that when you trigger the reset of the calibration data, you have to drive at different speed range with the correct pressure in the car so the calibration data can be stored by the DSC module.
So it might be that you didn't drove enough before trying to deflate a tire.

[Overboost]

Not sure how much you drove with your car before trying with a flat tire but that might be the reason why it isn't working. You have to know that when you trigger the reset of the calibration data, you have to drive at different speed range with the correct pressure in the car so the calibration data can be stored by the DSC module.
So it might be that you didn't drove enough before trying to deflate a tire.
Good point mauro23. I only drove it about 2 or 3 miles through my neighborhood when I reset RPA through INPA just to make sure the light wasn't going to trigger straight away by some fault of coding or improper INPA RPA reset. I will go back out and reset RPA with INPA again and put some miles on it. Thanks for your suggestions. This keeps my hopes alive... :thumbsup

[ELCID86]

FCP just posted this on why tires lose pressure. I didn't know it was normal for tires to lose one lb per month in constant temp weather.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/why-your-tires-are-losing-pressure?

[Overboost]

A update on the progress of my TPMS (RPA) retrofit journey. I still want to see if the retrofit can be done so given the errors I have in the MK60 module for the missing button, I decided to wire that wire from pin 40 on the ABS module to the center console so I could test it when my RPA button with DSC button strip got here.

That all went well, getting access to the ABS module plug is challenging but well documented. It took a couple of hours doing it right and properly routing the wire from the ABS connector, through the DME box, into the cabin and finally into the center console area where the button strip is located.

And here's where it gets sideways on me. It has been years since I retrofitted the factory navigation and pulled the center console apart so I dove in and started disassembly of the mounting bracket to swap out the button panel with the TPMS reset button with DSC button panel. Originally mine had only the DSC button and never gave a thought about not having the 25 pin connector for the button strip panel. As I take it apart, I realize I have the individual button relocation bracket with only the DSC button and you guessed it, no 25 pin harness. Only the 4 pin DSC harness...

So my planned easy retrofit project existing of a few hours of a single wire routing, some simple coding and $30 for the fleaBay button switch panel has turned into wiring in the 25 pin connector and another $125 relocation bracket with the provision for the button switch panel.

Moving forward from here will be to simply make the proper wiring connections at the button panel outside of the console and testing the system before spending the additional money installing it correctly. A quick view of the New TIS wiring document shows I should only have to add terminal 30 power to pin 7 and k-bus to pin 23. Ground, terminal 15 and lighting inputs are all taken from the 4 pin DSC plug so I have a 25 pin connector and pins coming for the 2 wires needed along with the RPA wire coming from pin 40 on the MK60 to pin 2 on the 25 pin connector to plug into the new button switch panel along with the DSC harness.

The kicker is I still don't even know if this is going to work. Call me insane but the OCD is getting the best of me now. I am not giving up until I can confidently prove this will or will not work.

34664

[Overboost]

Not sure how much you drove with your car before trying with a flat tire but that might be the reason why it isn't working. You have to know that when you trigger the reset of the calibration data, you have to drive at different speed range with the correct pressure in the car so the calibration data can be stored by the DSC module.
So it might be that you didn't drove enough before trying to deflate a tire.

I put the pressures back to normal, reset the RPA in INPA and took it out and put some miles on it with INPA connected mauro23. I watched it learn the values in real-time so I guess everything is working as it should. I want to put a few more drive cycles on it before dropping the pressure in one tire again to test it.

34665

[Overboost]

And officially thrown in the towel.

Got the switch center with RPA switch temporarily wired in with ZERO results. Couldn't even get the missing button error to clear so maybe my old MK60 is looking for the older RDC setup. I even dropped the FL tire pressure to 8 PSI and and took it for a 4 mile drive and still could not get a warning on the dash. I don't know, I give up. Coded the MK60 module and KMB back to original and cleared the $251 from my VO.

Call me defeated

[nextelbuddy]

And officially thrown in the towel.

Got the switch center with RPA switch temporarily wired in with ZERO results. Couldn't even get the missing button error to clear so maybe my old MK60 is looking for the older RDC setup. I even dropped the FL tire pressure to 8 PSI and and took it for a 4 mile drive and still could not get a warning on the dash. I don't know, I give up. Coded the MK60 module and KMB back to original and cleared the $251 from my VO.

Call me defeated

whats tour coding index? if you access the MK60 module using INPA and go to the identification screen with the part# it should show the coding index.


the one in my red 2003 zhp was a coding index 13 and had 0 issues. button works, inpa works and it shows the indicator if i have a low tire.

in my wagon, it also is an mk60 car but the module was bad in it so i had to replace it. i purchased a MK60 module from a 2005 zhp part out locally and installed it last year not even planning for TPMS. then i decided to code it few weeks back.

i could code it and the KMB module 0 issues. my cluster shows the TPMS icon light up Yellow, RED then OFF and stays off. it DID come on when i had a low tire but it went away when i filled up and drove.

then i wired up the TPMS button in a switch panel I had. it didnt work or do anything, i then tried using INPA to see the learning screens like you saw and INPA shows the RPA F7 button DISABLED/GREY.


Terra said over on the M3 forum that becasue mine was a coding index 12 then it wont work fully.

it made me thing how weird is it that it doesnt work for me this ONE way but for you it doesnt work ANOTHER way ni regards that it doesnt trigger properly BUT you can still access it via INPA but for me it DOES work in regards to tire pressure but it does NOT work in INPA.



luckily i had another 2003 ZHP i just picked up locally and i enabled TPMS in the MK60 module, verified it was coding index 13 also and saw it working for me.

i went ahead and used the DIY on this forum for how to replace MK60 with out bleeding brakes and removed the coding index 13 MK60 from that 2003 car and swapped in yet another 2004 coding index 12 MK60 i had in a parts box so now that car is fine and DSC works in that ZHP but it wont be able to use TMPS lol.

and now i can use the proper Mk60 i scavenged from it in my wagon now.


it took about 3 hours for me to remove the MK60 from that car and swap in the NON TPMS dsc module.

tonight i will tackle swapping in the TPMS Mk60 module into my wagon and coding it with the VIN etc...


that's probably the route you will have to go.

[Overboost]

Mine was coding index C04. Yeah, if the module ever goes bad, I will replace it with a C13 for sure but only if I ever have to replace it. I just can't justify the cost or effort for the indirect TPMS unless the original module fails and has to be replaced anyway. It would have been a nice simple mod with the right module...

[nextelbuddy]

Mine was coding index C04. Yeah, if the module ever goes bad, I will replace it with a C13 for sure but only if I ever have to replace it. I just can't justify the cost or effort for the indirect TPMS unless the original module fails and has to be replaced anyway. It would have been a nice simple mod with the right module...

Completely understandable. just FYI you can usually get these modules for $50 or some change on eBay.I just finished today installing it into my wagon and I'm good to go TPMS works just as it should with the button.

[racer2086]

Well, I performed this retrofit according to the instructions on page 1, but I never read past that until now, which I wish I did. I would have realized my car has the CI12 module and this was all a waste of time.

I did code the VO for $251 and made the NCS changes in the AKMB and MK60. All took and didn't complain. My TPMS light turns yellow and red when the key is in position 2 and then goes out. However, in INPA, the RPA option is gray and my reset switch doesn't do anything. So, yes, my module won't work with the reset switch, but shouldn't it at least work to monitor the wheel speeds and alert of a flat?

Below are some pictures from INPA. You will see the RPA option on the bottom gray. Pressing F7 does nothing. What I noticed under the identification, though, is that my CI12 module has a manufacture date of 11/04 but my car was built in 07/04. ??? Does that mean this piece was replaced at some point? The software date of programming is 09/27/02. Strange. Is that when the software was actually written (at BMW for example) vs coded to the module?

That brings me to my main question...Why can't we flash over newer software on these and update them? I can't imagine there are physical differences between the module preventing that? (I'm no expert in this coding though). Can my CI12 module at least be updated to something newer than 2002 software, that may at least let me access it via INPA?

Thanks for the help. Was a real bummer to wire all that up only to have no response. At least my sport button mod is working great. I did it a different way than the write up, which I will have to post. The sprint booster makes this car completely different.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024276363_21ae783169_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024276448_c8dc7c9034_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024276468_95840368ff_b.jpg

[TLL0003]

Well, I performed this retrofit according to the instructions on page 1, but I never read past that until now, which I wish I did. I would have realized my car has the CI12 module and this was all a waste of time.

I did code the VO for $251 and made the NCS changes in the AKMB and MK60. All took and didn't complain. My TPMS light turns yellow and red when the key is in position 2 and then goes out. However, in INPA, the RPA option is gray and my reset switch doesn't do anything. So, yes, my module won't work with the reset switch, but shouldn't it at least work to monitor the wheel speeds and alert of a flat?

Below are some pictures from INPA. You will see the RPA option on the bottom gray. Pressing F7 does nothing. What I noticed under the identification, though, is that my CI12 module has a manufacture date of 11/04 but my car was built in 07/04. ??? Does that mean this piece was replaced at some point? The software date of programming is 09/27/02. Strange. Is that when the software was actually written (at BMW for example) vs coded to the module?

That brings me to my main question...Why can't we flash over newer software on these and update them? I can't imagine there are physical differences between the module preventing that? (I'm no expert in this coding though). Can my CI12 module at least be updated to something newer than 2002 software, that may at least let me access it via INPA?

Thanks for the help. Was a real bummer to wire all that up only to have no response. At least my sport button mod is working great. I did it a different way than the write up, which I will have to post. The sprint booster makes this car completely different.

I did the exact same thing. The reset button doesn’t do a thing, but the monitor still works if you get a flat. I wish I knew of an easy way to get it working

[racer2086]

What if my monitor doesn't even work? Like I can't even access the TPMS menu in INPA. Which it seems others have no problem accessing. Is this a software version issue? Can updated software be flashed?

[330itoy]

Can I verify that I don’t need TPMS sensors in the wheels to do this retrofit? Just coding and run the hard wire and switch? Thank you this is a great write up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Overboost]

No, the RDC TPMS system uses the variance of the rolling wheels circumference to determine if a tire is low. No additional TPMS sensors are required in the wheels. Just make sure you have a coding index C13 MK60 ABS module for everything to work properly. Ask me how I know. 35992

[330itoy]

No, the RDC TPMS system uses the variance of the rolling wheels circumference to determine if a tire is low. No additional TPMS sensors are required in the wheels. Just make sure you have a coding index C13 MK60 ABS module for everything to work properly. Ask me how I know. 35992

Too cool! Thank you very much!!! I hope to be able to do this in the New Year. Have to learn the coding first.


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[elfer]

What if my monitor doesn't even work? Like I can't even access the TPMS menu in INPA. Which it seems others have no problem accessing. Is this a software version issue? Can updated software be flashed?

Delayed response but I found my original INPA version (5.02) didn't have an F7 reset option, so I dug around and found a later version (5.06) somewhere and that did have it (and it worked). If you're still stuck I hope that helps you!

[cakM3]

I'm glad Joop's DIY is still on here! I will be doing this on my ZHP very soon now.....