View Full Version : Turbo or Bust...
Price List of things I have: (it is not a complete list as some of the items I have are for experimentation)
Turbocharger – Comp Turbo CT4-6265 3BB Oil-Less : $1877
Turbo Manifold – Godspeed T3 cast manifold: $169.95
Wastegate – 38mm Vband EMUSA WG: $49.99
Turbo Lines – PTFE stainless steel line, 7 Feet: $24.43 (Votion Speed)
Line Fittings – x2 90º AN fittings: $19.98 (Votion Speed)
Line Fittings – x2 Straight AN fittings: $9.98 (Votion Speed)
Turbo Coolant Fittings – x2 Aeroquip FCM2521 6AN to 3/8″ NPT: $5.98
Wastegate Flange Gasket – Standard steel 38mm gasket, turbo manifold side: $3.45
Turbo to manifold Studs – x4 10mm studs: $4.20
Turbo to manifold Stud nuts – x4 10mm nuts: $4.20
Wastegate flange to manifold studs – x2 8mm studs: $2.00
Wastegate flange to manifold stud nuts – x2 8mm nuts: $2.00
Block coolant M14x1.5 6AN fitting: $7.00
2.5″ and 3″ Intercooler piping, couplers and Tbolt clamps: $180
Intercooler 22″ x 12″ x 3.5″ Treadstone: $288
Intake filter Kool Blue: $25.98 (you can have your own K&N, Team Green etc)
38mm standard WG flange (2 needed): $17.99 each.
HKS BOV: Free (had this laying around)
T3 turbo to manifold flange gasket: Free (had this laying around)
5/8″ Heater hose Tee fitting with 6AN: $14.95
BMW exhaust manifold gaskets Dana Victor Reinz: $17
1″ Hose for Bypass Valve return to turbo intake side
38mm wastegate to MVS vband adapter: $34.95
3″ Flex pipe with interlocking interior: $32.95
3″ Vband clamps: $72
High Flow Catalytic converter,3″ Eastern Cat 200 Cell: $76 (I am going to make it removable with a test pipe for the track)
BMW OEM exhaust manifold studs and nuts (16 each): $18.00
Downpipe, 3″ exhaust, flanges, O2 Bungs: $222 exhaust pipes
Wastegate 1.5″ Re-Route pipes: $47 (x1 tight radius u bend, x2 45º, x1 90º)
Injectors – 492cc/min(48lb/hr): $122.50 (Accel 48lb injectors)
Engine mount: $235, RallyRoad.net
Tuning: $1000, Unichip Q+, Turbo Module, IDriver, Software, blank harness
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Update 5/5/2011, threw my car on the local dyno (Mustang Eddy Current Load Dyno).
car pulled 205whp / 193wtq.
That was with 93 octane gas from Hess, car has 110k miles on odometer now.
Car is 100% stock as of right now. This was so I have my baseline to go by on further mods.
trying to get the 3rd pull.... this is the sheet of the 2nd pull...
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/5th-gear-pull-stock.jpg
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The muffler to quiet things down:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=703&stc=1&d=1301856332
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=702&stc=1&d=1301856330
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Comp Turbo CT4 Oil-Less turbo. I got it in a .63 a/r T3 turbine housing with 3" Vband for the downpipe.
I already have the manifold which I am going to do a thermal barrier coating on it.
These turbos use a high temperature, long life expensive grease on the center section. Heat is also reduced by going with ceramic ball bearing vs the standard metal Garrett uses. The deletion of the oil lines does 2 things for us, no tapping of the oil pan and no need to run an oil line to the turbo. so we get rid of the turbo drain problems that these cars have. The turbo is water cooled so it will need water lines.
Also for future reference the re-greasing of the turbo is only $100 if/when needed. A trade off I am willing to live with to avoid the typical turbo related issues with the M54B30, smoking, drains problems, oil leaks, tapping oil pan etc.. Joe told me His personal oil-less turbo did 57k miles of good (high boosted) use before needing a re-grease. on a daily driver it should last way longer. I say a good 100k.. but that is why I am trying it out. My car goes about 12k miles a year if that so my first greasing would be about 4 years and 9 months if I was to push 25psi.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=514&d=1299645042
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=515&d=1299645043
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Treadstone intercooler:
22 x 12 x 3.5 core with end tank air charge directors.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DIY_E46_Turbo_kit-007.gif
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Update 3/2/2012
Finally motivated and enough time to start working on the hardware stuff....
I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/turboside.jpg
The ports on these manifolds are Diamond shaped so I went and gasket matched this too.
The way it comes:
http://speed-daddy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/700x700/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/m/tm-e36-t3-38_1_.jpg
Mine:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/mani-port2.jpg
I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/wg-port.jpg
I received my engine mount that fits this manifold from RallyRoad:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/CompturboRRmotormount.jpg
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Update 5/5/2012
Fitted the intercooler on the front end of the car finally.
3910
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mimalmo
02-09-2011, 07:34 AM
I recommend talking to Nick Glantzis about your plans. Nobody has more experience with turbos on the non-M E46 than Nick.
http://techniquetuning.com/
danewilson77
02-09-2011, 07:36 AM
This is going to be awesome......GLWB
Marcus-SanDiego
02-09-2011, 08:17 AM
Nivo, good luck.
Don't forget to chronicle the project here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?48-Projects
jjcools
02-10-2011, 02:11 PM
Sign me up
mimalmo
02-10-2011, 02:52 PM
This is going to be a self venture, a DIY kit.
I was reading around the fanatics and elsewhere and doesn't seem like nick lends a helping hand to the DIY'r.
How do you plan on tuning it?
danewilson77
02-10-2011, 03:33 PM
Myself ;-)
288
Me tuning an AP1 Turbo still on stock engine with high compression.
Nice resource...
danewilson77
02-10-2011, 03:34 PM
Also just got my domain for the site:
www.e46turbo330ci.com
posted here first
Make sure you let us know when the site is fully up.
mimalmo
02-10-2011, 03:39 PM
Myself ;-)
I take it you're doing a standalone EMS like Megasquirt then?
mimalmo
02-10-2011, 04:09 PM
Interesting. Many tuners have promised the ability to tune a turbo on the factory DME and so far, Nick G has been the only one to deliver. Looking forward to seeing what you can do because that product sounds way more flexible.
reggie_0124
02-19-2011, 08:46 PM
good luck with your build. i hope your experience is a good one.
kaboom
02-24-2011, 12:27 AM
That's sweet man. I hope they can get the diablo working. The Diablo has been the most stable of all the domestic tuners, in my opinion, kinda like Cobb.
Ian
Im VERY interested in your turbo quest, Im subscribed. Im considering turboing my 325 as an option vs/ buying an M3 a couple years from now once my car is paid off. Like you, I have turbo'd some cars that not anyone else has ventured to turbo. 89 Honda Prlelude 2.0si (been turbo'd 7 years now and there are others out there at this point) and an 03 Accord w/K24 running a dual ECU setup, custom harness to run hondata-kpro and 352whp/400trq. I love boost :)
I know NOTHING about turboing anything other than a Honda, I want to learn! I want boost too!
danewilson77
02-24-2011, 09:12 AM
I am going to post pictures of the Comp Turbo CT4 Oil-Less turbo. I got it in a .63 a/r T3 turbine housing with 3" Vband for the downpipe.
I already have the manifold which I am going to port and do a thermal barrier coating on it.
These turbos use a high temperature, long life expensive grease on the center section. Heat is also reduced by going with ceramic ball bearing vs the standard metal Garrett uses. The deletion of the oil lines does 2 things for us, no tapping of the oil pan and no need to run an oil line to the turbo. so we get rid of the turbo drain problems that these cars have. The turbo is water cooled so it will need water lines.
Also for future reference the re-greasing of the turbo is only $100 if/when needed. A trade off I am willing to live with to avoid the typical turbo related issues with the M54B30, smoking, drains problems, oil leaks, tapping oil pan etc.. Joe told me His personal oil-less turbo did 57k miles of good (high boosted) use before needing a re-grease. on a daily driver it should last way longer. I say a good 100k.. but that is why I am trying it out. My car goes about 12k miles a year if that so my first greasing would be about 4 years and 9 months if I was to push 25psi.
I should have the turbo in hand next week.
OK...sounds good. Lets make this happen.
kaboom
02-24-2011, 04:15 PM
I can tell with you certainty that I've seen the oil less turbos in person on running cars for over a year. In fact, I'm heading there tomorrow to pick up three more turbos!!!
I can't wait to see how things end up! I've used FIC's with success before on BMW's, but obviously talking to the ECU would be better!
Ian
I can tell with you certainty that I've seen the oil less turbos in person on running cars for over a year. In fact, I'm heading there tomorrow to pick up three more turbos!!!
I can't wait to see how things end up! I've used FIC's with success before on BMW's, but obviously talking to the ECU would be better!
Ian
I was going to use an Oil-less turbo on our SRT-4 but went with a T04Z instead which I had ported and thermal coated. I also did the Manifold that we got from ATP Turbo.
408
409
kaboom
02-24-2011, 11:06 PM
T04z with a t3 flange? Damn I haven't seen a 38mm flange in years! Crazy stuff!
Again, I'm really excited to see what you figure out tuning wise.
Ian
danewilson77
03-06-2011, 11:25 AM
my site has been updated greatly...
I saw it.....looking good.
Turbo came in and wow, it is one of the nicest turbos I have seen in years: http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=37
Billet compressor, oil-less center section, Triplex ball bearing technology. no shaft play at all.
513
514
515
Johnmadd
03-08-2011, 08:40 PM
:jawdrop
Sorry if its been asked I don't remember but are you using a performance head gasket?
:jawdrop
Sorry if its been asked I don't remember but are you using a performance head gasket?
Stock engine until it pops....
Johnmadd
03-08-2011, 08:53 PM
Id do it like that too.
kaboom
03-08-2011, 10:22 PM
That 6265 is going to work great. It consistently makes over 700whp on mild engine applications!
I'm really curious what you're going to do for a tuning solution. I know I can wire in an AEM 6050 box to run the injectors and coils and VANOS. The question is, what about the throttle?
Ian
danewilson77
03-09-2011, 03:58 AM
Turbo came in and wow, it is one of the nicest turbos I have seen in years: http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=37
Billet compressor, oil-less center section, Triplex ball bearing technology. no shaft play at all.
513
514
515
How many bones did that run?
How many bones did that run?
This turbo is $1877, that is Billet compressor, Triplex Ceramic 3BB center and oil-less. So only coolant lines are ran to the turbo.
Comp Turbo also carries other standard turbos.
danewilson77
03-09-2011, 11:46 AM
Shoot...you should have picked up 3 or 4 of them at that price...
Shoot...you should have picked up 3 or 4 of them at that price...
I was thinking about it!
After all we own BMW's right?
M3 kits are $15k+ everyone can swing that right?:fistpump
The turbo is the most expensive thing on the turbo build.
danewilson77
03-09-2011, 07:58 PM
Think you can get it done for $3k total?
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Think you can get it done for $3k total?
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Around $3500 using this turbo. deduct about $1038 if you go with their standard turbos.
http://www.maperformance.com/comp-turbo-ct2-6262-turbocharger-ct2-6262.html
Everything I have bought is being written down and I will post a list of everything.
danewilson77
03-10-2011, 07:15 AM
So...you can turbo for $2500? Wow...
Marcus-SanDiego
03-10-2011, 07:23 AM
Dane, you thinking about doing this??
danewilson77
03-10-2011, 07:46 AM
Mmmmmm............perhaps. :shifty
So...you can turbo for $2500? Wow...
Only if you know what you are doing and do the fabrication yourself. lol but that will get you going for the most part.
Everyone can do it differently. Costs are dependent on what you get the items for like turbo, manifold, wastegate, intercooler, piping, motor mount, gaskets, flanges, vbands, muffler etc... I am going with 3" turboback exhaust ending with a variable muffler.
I get the satisfaction of the DIY way rather then a kit. takes the fun away for me. I know that there is a kit out there for these cars but that takes the fun away for me. I am a car guy and went to school for automotive and then performance, I can pretty much do anything on any car. So I don't shy away from a DIY kit.
There are additions like clutch, exhaust items but it is all part of the fun...
The reason for my site is to show others that it can be done and it shows my way of doing it. what people choose for parts it's up to them...
I have turbocharged a fair share of cars from Mustangs, corvettes, 350z's, vipers and each car has it's own quirks and hurdles.
Mmmmmm............perhaps. :shifty
Let me get up and running and add more things to the site, the you can decide if you want to take this on.
The turbo options are huge, I used Comp Turbo because Joe makes turbos for performance use, not diesel cars/trucks.
Also once I come up with the motor mount using the Godspeed manifold I might offer those for sale.
I have received coolant lines with fittings, block fitting, new brakes and pads, coupler for turbo, fittings for turbo and wastegate gasket and some odds and ends.
All on the site.
W00t... Purchased inter cooler, pipes, filter, clamps, couplers and a flange I need.
MrMaico
03-18-2011, 03:24 PM
This turbo is $1877, that is Billet compressor, Triplex Ceramic 3BB center and oil-less. So only coolant lines are ran to the turbo.
Comp Turbo also carries other standard turbos.
Not too bad really......we just got the bill at work today for a turbo I picked up for one of our tandem axle dumptruck/plowtrucks with a 6 cylinder Cummins. It was a Holset brand.....$2800. That doesn't include the $550 core credit either.
MrMaico
03-18-2011, 03:25 PM
W00t... Purchased inter cooler, pipes, filter, clamps, couplers and a flange I need.
Really looking forward to the completed project!
Really looking forward to the completed project!
Yeah, I am keeping track of all my purchases and putting all on my site. I will also do a how to on my turbo kit installation.
Johnmadd
03-18-2011, 06:38 PM
Not too bad really......we just got the bill at work today for a turbo I picked up for one of our tandem axle dumptruck/plowtrucks with a 6 cylinder Cummins. It was a Holset brand.....$2800. That doesn't include the $550 core credit either.
Those 6 cylinder engines in big trucks are huge and so is the turbo, but would never work on a car, too big and would never kick in.
kaboom
03-20-2011, 03:15 PM
All of the Gt42-76/45-80/45-87 used on lots of domestic and import cars are from the diesel world.
I'm still really looking forward to your management solutions!
Ian
Picture of some of the tings I have at home waiting for nice days....
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?p=383
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DIY_E46_Turbo_kit-001.gif
danewilson77
03-26-2011, 05:47 PM
That looks delicious.
Droid! Srs Legitness!
MasterC17
03-31-2011, 03:03 PM
Nice, looking forward to seeing what you come up with!
muffler should be in tomorrow. I bought a 3" Varex Muffler with Twin tips from MAP, I think they are the only ones selling these online as they come all the way from Australia and are hard to get here.
701
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=701&d=1301705542
mimalmo
04-01-2011, 05:09 PM
Interesting choice for a muffler. Any reason why you went that route versus one that's open all the time like Remus, Supersprint, Highline Tuning, etc?
Interesting choice for a muffler. Any reason why you went that route versus one that's open all the time like Remus, Supersprint, Highline Tuning, etc?
Massachusetts has a very loose exhaust noise law which is left to the discretion of the officer that pulls you over. At some Inspection stations they fail you just for having an aftermarket muffler. Also when cruising on long trips you don't want drone inside or the loud exhaust noise so instead of doing a standard muffler and an electric cut out I did both out the rear.
I need the car quiet when cruising and open for the track.
example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY6xl4qv-_A&feature=related
mimalmo
04-01-2011, 05:29 PM
OK, gotcha. That's lame that it's up to the officer to decide versus setting a standard and having everyone comply.
OK, gotcha. That's lame that it's up to the officer to decide versus setting a standard and having everyone comply.
Yeah, no standard here. Only motorcycles get a decibel level for exhaust noise.
Section 16. No person shall operate a motor vehicle, nor shall any owner of such vehicle permit it to be operated, in or over any way, public or private, whether laid out under authority of law or otherwise, which motor vehicles are prohibited from using, provided notice of such prohibition is conspicuously posted at the entrance to such way. No person shall operate a motor vehicle, nor shall any owner of such vehicle permit it to be operated upon any way, except fire department and fire patrol apparatus, unless such motor vehicle is equipped with a muffler to prevent excessive or unnecessary noise, which muffler is in good working order and in constant operation, and complies with such minimum standards for construction and performance as the registrar may prescribe. No person shall use a muffler cut-out or by-pass. No person shall operate a motor vehicle on any way which motor vehicle is equipped (1) with a muffler from which the baffle plates, screens or other original internal parts have been removed and not replaced; or (2) with an exhaust system which has been modified in a manner which will amplify or increase the noise emitted by the exhaust.
MGL- CH 90 SEC 7- Every motor vehicle so operated shall be provided with a muffler or other suitable device to prevent unnecessary noise.
That is our "Exhaust law"
Also for entertaining reading about the people who serve and protect in our state read here, our states finest post here: http://www.masscops.com/f50/violation-90-16-altered-exhaust-77419/
kayger12
04-01-2011, 05:46 PM
Muffler laws such as that one (and the one in Jersey for that matter) are essentially unconstitutional because they are too vague. "Excessively loud" is entirely too vague a term to be held constitutional.
The problem is that no one is ever going to take a muffler ticket to the State Supreme Court so the law is allowed to stand.
Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.
Muffler laws such as that one (and the one in Jersey for that matter) are essentially unconstitutional because they are too vague. "Excessively loud" is entirely too vague a term to be held constitutional.
The problem is that no one is ever going to take a muffler ticket to the State Supreme Court so the law is allowed to stand.
Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.
In this state most of us car enthusiasts just ask for some guideline as they did in California and not say do not add a muffler or change your exhaust at all. Then allowing Officers to just enforce any law they think seems adequate at the time. We have been stopped in our SRT-4 when it had the stock muffler less exhaust. Ok for stock it is louder then the average car but yet it is unmodified, we ended with a ticket even with proof that is was muffler less. now we have a 3" with cat, resonator and muffler to make it quiet and we got stopped for having an altered exhaust! now wait a minute? one officer tickets us for having an OEM exhaust that sounds loud to him and another didn't like the quieter shiny exhaust?
I have something up my sleeve and I have the URL ready and have some backing by some people in congress here to help do something for the Auto enthusiasts here in the state.
kayger12
04-01-2011, 06:07 PM
Hope it works out. Everyone benefits from consistency.
Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.
kaboom
04-02-2011, 04:50 AM
Yes wishing the best and excited about this project.
Ian
A few pics that I just took of the Varex VMK-300 single 3" inlet and twin 3" tips.
mimalmo
04-03-2011, 10:55 AM
Those are some really nice welds
Patrick at Sniper Inc mentioned that they will be discontinuing the Liberator read/write BMW/Euro tool.
What they did was for $420-$470 you would get your car tuned for the mods on the car.
It hasn't been popular among BMW owners since it came out so they are saying it will be discontinued. I can't believe no one would jump on such a low cost tuning solution.
The tool included 1 tune at that price... and later on it can be used to OBD read/flash your MS45 DME by using another tuners .mod file.
If you inquire mention Nivo
Marcus-SanDiego
04-20-2011, 10:13 AM
Nivo, I changed the attachment feature around here. You no longer have to IMG tag the pictures. Attachments now show up as pictures. I have removed the extra set (duplicates) from your original post.
Nivo, I changed the attachment feature around here. You no longer have to IMG tag the pictures. Attachments now show up as pictures. I have removed the extra set (duplicates) from your original post.
Funny thing is I had just noticed this when I refreshed the page after posting and wondered why, then realized that the attachments are now as images instead of links.
Thanks
Marcus-SanDiego
04-20-2011, 10:18 AM
No worries, pal. It's a recent change. I finally figured out how to make attachments show up as pictures. Haha. I had to disable something, rather than enable something. Doh!
Anyhow, you're all squared away, sir.
No worries, pal. It's a recent change. I finally figured out how to make attachments show up as pictures. Haha. I had to disable something, rather than enable something. Doh!
Anyhow, you're all squared away, sir.
Yeah, Damn VBulletin boards lol
Update, threw my car on the local dyno (Mustang Eddy Current Load Dyno).
car pulled 205whp / 193wtq.
That was with 93 octane gas from Hess, car has 110k miles on odometer now.
Car is 100% stock as of right now. This was so I have my baseline to go by on further mods.
trying to get the 3rd pull.... this is the sheet of the 2nd pull...
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/5th-gear-pull-stock.jpg
mimalmo
05-05-2011, 02:02 PM
Those are decent numbers.
Hornung418
05-05-2011, 02:54 PM
That's amazing that I have a more torquey motor while you guys have the higher top-end! Can't wait to see the results!
MasterC17
05-05-2011, 05:57 PM
Nice Dyno results, right where you want to be stock :)
Now I know where my car sits as far as wheel horsepower goes.
I am just waiting for a few small things like my blow off valve flange and return adapter, a few one way check valves for some vacuum hoses.
The turbo I am using has a .63 A/R coupled with a billet compressor wheel and Comp Turbos patented triplex ceramic ball bearings so it should spool quite fast on the 3.0L engine with some nice efficiency. 7psi should push out some nice numbers once the engine is built the turbo should still be able to push some nice numbers all the way up to 680-700whp.
Hornung418
05-06-2011, 08:27 AM
I don't see 700hp in your future with out some insane enigine work. I know a guy who has an S52 running a turbo and nitrous making 900hp...and that's fully built in an e30 325is...badges on of course ;)
I don't see 700hp in your future with out some insane enigine work. I know a guy who has an S52 running a turbo and nitrous making 900hp...and that's fully built in an e30 325is...badges on of course ;)
Thanks for bringing that up, if you look back at my post you would see:
"once the engine is built the turbo should still be able to push some nice numbers all the way up to 680-700whp. "
Not my first time building cars or an engine. :thumbsup
I know several cars with engines I built doing over 900hp, our own SRT4 is built by me and the limitation there is the 78lb/min of flow the turbo can dish out.
This car should be no problem once I address some of the inherent issues with the chassis, drive-train.
No shops here, just me...:roundel
Hornung418
05-06-2011, 01:23 PM
Thanks for bringing that up, if you look back at my post you would see:
"once the engine is built the turbo should still be able to push some nice numbers all the way up to 680-700whp. "
Not my first time building cars or an engine. :thumbsup
I know several cars with engines I built doing over 900hp, our own SRT4 is built by me and the limitation there is the 78lb/min of flow the turbo can dish out.
This car should be no problem once I address some of the inherent issues with the chassis, drive-train.
No shops here, just me...:roundel
I wasn't trying to discourage you. A 500 horsepower increase just seems really ridiculous to me. The HPF M3s only make around 530 at the wheels...
What are your plans for the double VANOS?
That is the main issue with turbocharging the M54.
DROIDstatus. Come at me, bro.
nike001
05-06-2011, 03:14 PM
Nivo, I respect you for wanting to do all of this but 700whp is nuts. If I were doing this, I'd stick with between 300-500whp. Thats more than enough for the streets and you don't have to worry about other cars keeping up. 700whp would just be a traction struggle 24/7.
Thats my 2 cents here. Good luck on your build though, can't wait to see it! Hopefully I'll get to meet + see your car sometime in the near future.
EDIT: Have you worked out the cost of this build yet? Just curious.
I wasn't trying to discourage you. A 500 horsepower increase just seems really ridiculous to me. The HPF M3s only make around 530 at the wheels...
What are your plans for the double VANOS?
That is the main issue with turbocharging the M54.
DROIDstatus. Come at me, bro.
LOL, no...not discouraged. I do this all the time. Usually I hardly post things like build ups etc but I see that the Non-M cars are missing this in the BMW community so I figured I would share.
My old '87 Z car did 170whp stock back in 1994 and I got that up to 620whp using meth injection/pump on a T67. even with 315mm wide tires out back it spun but the good thing about turbo cars vs superchargers, the boost is adjustable when you want. The cars is not always at peak boost unless you hit that switch/button.
When I run into the issue with the M54's Double Vanos I will then come up with a solution.
Nivo, I respect you for wanting to do all of this but 700whp is nuts. If I were doing this, I'd stick with between 300-500whp. Thats more than enough for the streets and you don't have to worry about other cars keeping up. 700whp would just be a traction struggle 24/7.
Thats my 2 cents here. Good luck on your build though, can't wait to see it! Hopefully I'll get to meet + see your car sometime in the near future.
EDIT: Have you worked out the cost of this build yet? Just curious.
At first I want to see what the stock engine does so 700whp will not be until later.
I will see what the set up will do on the stock engine, I hope for 340whp on the Mustang Dyno on low boost.
Unfortunately around here many hondas, SRTs, Subies, DSMs, Fbodys, mustangs have over 400whp so yeah...the heavy 330Ci is no competition so it is a self satisfaction project. Our own SRT will smoke my car hands down even after I turbocharge it.:crying
My car will be an ongoing experiment and all of it is being written about on my site that you see on my sig.
As I posted before, I can bump the boost up and down so my range of power will be between 340whp on stock engine up to 700whp when built.
I have yet to see a ZHP be DIY turbocharged and this is all a learning process on what works on my car.
I will be happy once the car runs a 10.99 @130mph at my local track.
danewilson77
05-07-2011, 04:35 AM
At first I want to see what the stock engine does so 700whp will not be until later.
I will see what the set up will do on the stock engine, I hope for 340whp on the Mustang Dyno on low boost.
Unfortunately around here many hondas, SRTs, Subies, DSMs, Fbodys, mustangs have over 400whp so yeah...the heavy 330Ci is no competition so it is a self satisfaction project. Our own SRT will smoke my car hands down even after I turbocharge it.:crying
My car will be an ongoing experiment and all of it is being written about on my site that you see on my sig.
As I posted before, I can bump the boost up and down so my range of power will be between 340whp on stock engine up to 700whp when built.
I have yet to see a ZHP be DIY turbocharged and this is all a learning process on what works on my car.
I will be happy once the car runs a 10.99 @130mph at my local track.
Brilliance.
An intellectual solves problems, a genius prevents problems. You sir are genius.
you will see how a simple blog website put out there for the world to see, with the DIY completely written about will spark many others to take the project on.
Yes, Nicks G's kit is out there and there is not much wrong with it. But there is no satisfaction when for a technical guy like me has his job done by another person.
My website is sharing the information with everyone so that way any guy/gal can take the project on and have guidance. Right now it is a bit empty because I am doing things here and there and writing it up.
The turbo "how to" will be posted after I get my car running and dyno tuned at the same dyno place. This is because of the negativity I have received through emails and private messages. Even a few vendors have tried stopping my project with threats.
I am not trying to steal their thunder on selling S/C kits or tunes.
I am just offering an individuals point of view on modifying the E46.:rockon
Test fitted the 22 x 12 x 3.5" intercooler... All I have to say is ___________.
danewilson77
05-07-2011, 09:18 AM
teets?
az3579
05-07-2011, 01:41 PM
Test fitted the 22 x 12 x 3.5" intercooler... All I have to say is Needs Moar Low.
Perhaps?
(Sorry, I couldn't help it. Didn't say that because that's what I think; my friend has been saying that ALL DAY today and it got stuck in my head. lol)
updated the first post in the thread with the info I have posted on here.
I recommend talking to Nick Glantzis about your plans. Nobody has more experience with turbos on the non-M E46 than Nick.
http://techniquetuning.com/
Nick G – Not doing DIY turbo kit tuning, this is his official words: ” we do not offer software for custom turbo kits. Furthermore, our mods to switch from the factory twin bank system to single bank are proprietary and for our use only. That program is not for sale.
Good luck with your project.”
95m3ltw
05-11-2011, 05:01 PM
Awesome DIY, looking forward to seeing your results.
Awesome DIY, looking forward to seeing your results.
Thanks, Doing it not only because I am a boost car enthusiast but also because there is a lack of REAL diy things like turbocharging the non M3 cars.
Plus, I am trying to make it so anyone can do it at home.
I am working on the plans for the exhaust, wastegate tubes and placement and intercooler tubing. What I am going to do will shock some and make others say, "I want to take this on myself now".
95m3ltw
05-12-2011, 09:13 AM
Patrick at Sniper Inc mentioned that they will be discontinuing the Liberator read/write BMW/Euro tool.
What they did was for $420-$470 you would get your car tuned for the mods on the car.
It hasn't been popular among BMW owners since it came out so they are saying it will be discontinued. I can't believe no one would jump on such a low cost tuning solution.
From what I recall, people looked into it but found it didnt work. Issues with checksum etc. Good idea but needed much more development and someone to actually do the tunes.
From what I recall, people looked into it but found it didnt work. Issues with checksum etc. Good idea but needed much more development and someone to actually do the tunes.
They have cars tuned using it so I am sure they got that squared away. I am going another route and I am in the process of making it work on thew car.
Everything will be posted about once I have it all done and running.
95m3ltw
05-12-2011, 09:34 AM
Plus, I am trying to make it so anyone can do it at home.
I am working on the plans for the exhaust, wastegate tubes and placement and intercooler tubing. What I am going to do will shock some and make others say, "I want to take this on myself now".
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. It's nice to see someone doing a good job documenting the process, as that takes time and effort itself. Any ideas on the tuning? Have friends in the business who will offer MS54 tuning at some point but it is still months out as they are busy with S54 stuff at the moment.
Here is an example of a How-To I did for the SRT-4 guys years ago:
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-srt4-axle-replacement-passengers-side-108574/
I will be doing something like this for the turbo set up if I have enough time for all of it.
Nivo
MasterC17
06-15-2011, 02:11 PM
Any update to this?
Any update to this?
I am in the process of writing a few things, most of this work I am doing without a hint on forums and my site.
I have gotten negative emails and let down messages...
Kind of like, "dude just buy an M3" or "lol that will never work good luck for the next few years while you figure out how to get it running"
But, yes I am still on target. working on getting a clutch made for the car now and working on those glass axle stubs/axle shafts
Marcus-SanDiego
06-15-2011, 05:43 PM
Just remember which site encouraged you and didn't send you negative vibes, Nivo. :thumbup
static667
06-15-2011, 05:53 PM
You can make this all work. I saw a rather well done turbo job on a ZHP last weekend.
You can make this all work. I saw a rather well done turbo job on a ZHP last weekend.
Cool, was it a DIY kit?
danewilson77
06-16-2011, 08:39 AM
Cool, was it a DIY kit?
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3096-ZHP-ESS-TS2-Project-(PICS)
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3096-ZHP-ESS-TS2-Project-(PICS)
Oh I see
Originally Posted by static667 View Post
You can make this all work. I saw a rather well done turbo job on a ZHP last weekend.
So yeah, if it is the one from the link then a twin screw Supercharger that goes in place of the intake manifold is different then a turbocharger kit as the changes are made to the intake side only.
Hornung418
06-16-2011, 09:01 AM
There was a turboed ZHP. It's my understanding that it was a kit. And not the route you are taking. Carry on, Nivo :biggrin
RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.
I usually don't go crazy and make things that don't work, it takes planning.
I do all this while still keeping up with the other car stuff as I belong to many other forums and have other cars.
Still on track for this, was just sourcing out some axle stubs as the oem are hollow and strengthening the chassis. LSD for the rear too.
In the ,meantime this is the car now:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/ZHPNivo330Ci.jpg
mimalmo
09-19-2011, 01:05 PM
Have you considered using the M3 subframe, diff, driveshaft and axles? They can take quite a bit more power than our non-M parts can.
Have you considered using the M3 subframe, diff, driveshaft and axles? They can take quite a bit more power than our non-M parts can.
I was debating about doing it but locally it is hard to find all I need.
Got the motor mount and took a few pics of it.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?p=560
95m3ltw
02-25-2012, 06:32 AM
Updates?
Update is, I did my spark plugs, DISA O-ring, lower and upper intake boots, cleaned throttle body, IACV, Coolant expansion tank and radiator hoses and switch on lower hose.
Ported manifold at turbo side and runners towards the head. waiting on M50 exhaust manifold gaskets.
I did the DISA O-ring because I pressurized the manifold and boy did it leak bad through there.
My coolant expansion tank cracked inside and was leaking down the bottom where the level sensor is.
Also I am waiting for some of my welding stuff for the exhaust/dump tube, wastegate relocation.
Oh, also waiting for the other ZHP to arrive maybe next week :rockon
Let me add that the whole project thus far is paid for, nothing on credit. this is why it has been longer then other projects. That and I like taking pictures of everything.
Finally motivated and enough time to start working on the hardware stuff....
I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/turboside.jpg
The ports on these manifolds are Diamond shaped so I went and gasket matched this too.
The way it comes:
http://speed-daddy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/700x700/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/m/tm-e36-t3-38_1_.jpg
Mine:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/mani-port2.jpg
I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/wg-port.jpg
danewilson77
03-02-2012, 09:24 AM
Excellent work.
johnrando
03-02-2012, 09:25 AM
Excellent work.
+1
ryankokesh
03-02-2012, 10:30 AM
Very nice - love reading (and seeing) the updates!
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/extrasgeneral.gif
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Option3_Options.gif
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/extrascatsignal.gif
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/timingmapsetup.gif
cakM3
04-15-2012, 04:12 AM
Nivo, awesome work.....keep it going! :thumbsup
suscribed :)
derbo
04-15-2012, 07:38 AM
looking great so far!
Decided it was nice enough and had time enough to fit this monster intercooler out front of the OEM ZHP bumper cover. And the new sibling.
Inter cooler has 3" in/out, core is 22" w x 12" high x 3.5" deep. Total width is 30"
I had to modify the 5mph aluminum bumper, Some cutting and grinding so I can sit it about 2" higher and 1.5" further back up top.
Teaser..
3873
3874
3872
Ryans323i
04-30-2012, 09:33 AM
Just read this whole thread. Wow. Most of it's above my head, but I can't wait to see how it turns out. Great work so far!
BTW, I'm going to do more research on the muffler you selected. I want an aftermarket exhaust one day, but I'm afraid of the interstate drone.
cakM3
04-30-2012, 01:52 PM
Nivo,
looking good so far :thumbsup I wish I had the skills to do a project like this....props to you brother.....looking forward to seeing the finished product :)
The inter cooler fit in the OEM ZHP front bumper cover and behind the OEM aluminum bumper.
I went the stealth route as I lightly sprayed the inter cooler so it is barely visible with radiator paint.
Keeping the safety and integrity of the OEM stuff was a must for me. Some people delete the front aluminum bumpers:dunno
Will post pics later of the finished look.
intercooler shot with cover on before paint.
3886
Ryans323i
05-02-2012, 03:53 AM
Looks really clean. Great work.
johnrando
05-02-2012, 07:41 AM
Looks really clean. Great work.
+1
derbo
05-03-2012, 07:38 AM
looks great with the intercooler!
cakM3
05-03-2012, 08:36 AM
:theman
Damn Nivo....you have mad skills :chuck
Curious to see just how much horsepower you will get from this set up.....
I have done so many cars that with the limited stuff from the local hardware store I can do quite a bit. lol.
I found from doing turbo cars that the hardest parts are mounting a large intercooler out front, and the setting up of the electronics/tuning.
But I already got this part done, the rest is just turbo manifold, turbo, coolant lines, wastegate extension tube, and weld up a turboback exhaust and intercooler piping, some vacuum routing etc...
As far as power goes:
NickG dyno'd a ZHP on stage 1, 8.5psi at 326whp/303wtq. (Mustang Load Dyno)
McSpeed pulled 341whp/331wtq ZHP on stage 1, 8.5psi (Dynojet Non load dyno)
With the Larger intercooler, 3" turboback exhaust, 3" race cat and free flow muffler, Larger more efficient turbo putting out less heat and more air at 8.5psi it might be at 360whp if done on a dynojet. (on 93 octane of course), Motor octane of 93 AKI fuel at USA pumps is usually 87-88 pretty weak actually as what counts for any engine is the motor octane not the R+M/2 method giving you a formulation of the research octane and motor octane.
McSpeed on his set up is doing about 15.7 whp for every pound of boost. The average for many cars is 10-12 whp. Now I don't have the compressor map for his turbo but his seems about right for that set up so it is running as designed.
danewilson77
05-10-2012, 03:15 AM
Shot of the babies
3941
Nice Nivo.
Sent from SIGFest USA
johnrando
05-10-2012, 11:51 AM
Lookin good.
az3579
05-10-2012, 12:28 PM
If you don't mind my asking, how did you remove that bumper? I can't seem to find a reliable DIY on removing an M-Tech II front bumper. I imagine it's similar to the sedan version?
If you don't mind my asking, how did you remove that bumper? I can't seem to find a reliable DIY on removing an M-Tech II front bumper. I imagine it's similar to the sedan version?
The bumper cover and reinforcement has to come off together. basically the one screw on the wheel housing area that connects the splash guards to the front bumper cover, the multiple little expansion screw rivets on the bottom, the 1 little screw on each side on the bottom connecting the bumper cover to the plastic splash guard. Then there are the 2 E14 external torx bolts that hold the front bumper reinforcement on. The last things are the 2 horns and fog lights. When off, the bumper cover is mounted to the bumper reinforcement using 5 expanding screw rivets which are behind the front grill.
I suppose I can make a DIY for just the M-Tech bumper cover and throw it on my site since I also ran into the Hidden Expanding screw rivets. When I got it all off I cut the tabs for them off to fit the FMIC.
az3579
05-11-2012, 06:13 PM
Is it same for the sedan as the coupe bumper cover?
Sent from my iPhone 4S from Tapatalk
Is it same for the sedan as the coupe bumper cover?
Sent from my iPhone 4S from Tapatalk
I haven't taken the sedans off yet so I am not sure.
Dastek has a schematic that it states it is for MS45 car (330Ci, 3.0L) but it is just based on MS43 wiring. I went out and got some info from Tony W. and got all the info needed to make a final schematic for basic engine controls like fuel and timing.
MS45 cars from 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm
MS45 cars from 9/2002 to 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm
Updated 8/4/2012
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Hornung418
05-17-2012, 10:37 AM
Great info, Nivo!
Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol
Ryans323i I am going to send you that armrest cover soon.
4243
4244
Johnmadd
05-24-2012, 08:06 PM
Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol
Ryans323i I am going to send you that armrest cover soon.
4243
4244
Damn Nivo, interior looks awesome, time to hook up Sara's right?
Ryans323i
05-25-2012, 03:54 AM
Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol
Ryans323i I am going to send you that armrest cover soon.
4243
4244
The new parts look great!
And thanks for hooking me up with the old arm rest cover!
Damn Nivo, interior looks awesome, time to hook up Sara's right?
Also her car is basically done already except if a Supercharger falls into the engine bay I will not take it off :-)
Been working on this for a long time adding to it and taking away. But this one is pretty close to almost what it should be for a non turbo to turbo M54B30 set up.
From my site:
I have been working on this for some time now looking over all aspects of how the components on the car works, looking at wiring schematics and component flow and so far this is what I have on Turbocharging the M54 successfully with little to no check engine lights and decent fuel trims. Also making sure some components are not pressurized under boost. In the Diagram we also changed/deleted the OEM CCV system to a more simplified DIY Air & Oil Separator using fast acting check valves.
The wires to the MAF will need to be extended.
The 2 Vacuum hoses that went to the “F” connector on the original OEM intake boot are now on the vacuum block. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator has an inline check valve so it does not see pressure and fuel pressure stays static.
The wastegate is ran off the vacuum block, do this if you have a low pressure wastegate spring under 9psi. This way you will not need to spend money on a boost controller.
The By-pass valve is also run off the vacuum block. DO NOT in any case vent the metered air into atmosphere, the car will bog, stall during shifts due to the rich condition when venting metered air out of the closed system. DO NOT use a Blow Off Valve.
On my diagram you see that I use a high flow catalytic converter, this is to keep things clean and keep the post cat Oxygen sensors happy and we comply with local / Federal laws. The cat is on 2 V-Bands so it is removable.
My wastegate is venting to atmosphere, back pressure is less and usually you get more efficiency this way out of the external gate. If you want it back into the exhaust, route it so the tube going back into the exhaust is at an angle and not “Teed” into it.
The fuel tank breather valve, also known as the purge valve needs a check valve so we don’t send pressure to it. It needs to be under vacuum to pull fumes out of the tank not pressure.
This Diagram will change as I find more efficient ways to make things work. But this is the starting point of going turbo on a non turbo car.
The Air & Oil separator is a basic $30 ebay catch can which I will show you how to modify so it works correctly.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/M54B30-Turbo-Diagram.jpg
Also, the car has single use stretch head bolts. Head bolts tighten the head down by turning into the threads of the block then you "stretch the bolt" with a few extra turns to arrive at the desired torque for those bolts to clamp down. Those are fine for any car that is factory but on a boosted application where you jack up cylinder pressures under boost you do not want the clamping for to be at the block threads as they may pull out if and when the head lifts.
What you may want to do is get head stud/washer nut combo. The studs hand tighten into the threads of the block (must go all the way down to use all the threads available). A washer and nut is placed up top on the stud and the clamping force comes from the top of the aftermarket head stud relieving the threads on the block from stripping. Many factory cars that are turbo do come with head studs not bolts, the cars that are turbo with head bolts do have issues like many SAABs suffering from stretched bolts from the pressure, head lifts a bit and oil starts to come out from between the block and head. Those cars have an Iron block and aluminum head. Aluminum blocks or not head "bolts" are usually prone to issues when asked more of them (higher cylinder pressures from turbo, supercharging, nitrous oxide use).
Using the block threads as the clamping force is a no no. Also using "stretch" bolts are a no no. The extra turns in torque procedures is the Stretching portion of the procedure. This makes them type of head bolts a one time use set.
This is the Ebay catch can, Air/Oil Separator set up I came up with to get rid of the OEM Crank Case Ventilation set up that fails.
I started out with a catch can from ebay. I chose a round unit anodized in black.
It had to have removable top and bottom so it can be modified.
I got mine from I’LoveILtacotaco ebay store (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-750ML-CYLINDER-OIL-CATCH-CAN-TANK-W-DRAIN-PLUG-ACURA-B16-B18-TYPE-R-/251007897258?hash=item3a713c8eaa&item=251007897258&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr).
It is $29.99 shipped and in black. They do have other color choices too.
The can itself is 3.125” in diameter x 5.750” tall. This is just the perfect size for what we are trying to accomplish here!
There are only (2) 3/8” NPT ports but I wanted to add another for a -10an to ½” NPT fitting.
To do so I needed a ¾” Drill bit which I had and a ½” NPT tap bit.
First I centered punched where I wanted the fitting
Next I used a small drill bit to start a pilot hole; afterwards I used a ¾” drill bit.
I still need to make the internal baffling and chamber separator, I will post that when I get to it.
On a Forced Induction car it is critical that we have vacuum in the crank case at all time and not pressurize it with boost. Engine will not survive long if you don't.
If you take a look at my diagram on the above post you will see that I am following it pretty much as I designed it.
This is what the set up looks like.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC02120.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC02130.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC02124.jpg
You have seen it everywhere lately, show cars, performance cars, at the race tracks. Gearheads are using Vacuum manifold blocks and Push-to-connect fittings with Nylon tubing. Pretty much the Nylon will last forever, it takes well to heat and pressure.
It doesn’t bubble/expand out like rubber and unlike your local auto parts store it can be had really cheap!
I searched a few places for my own lines for my project and found that http://www.automationdirect.com had really good prices on the Black Nylon lines.
On the site they have it for $17.00/100ft roll. That ends up being 17 cents…yes you read it right, 17 cents per foot! you will have enough to even make a Meth kit with it.
Automation Direct also has the Push-to-connect fittings in packs of 5 for cheap! The 5 pack costs $4.75 for smooth round 1/4″ Male fittings. That comes out to be 95 cents each. Compare to other places selling at $3.49+ for each fitting.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/m_msr1418n.jpg
1/4″ O.D. Hose to 1/8″ NPT Threads
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/m_n14blk100.jpg
1/4″ Nylon Hose for use as Vacuum/Pressure lines
Here are a few Vacuum Manifolds you can get for under $25:
Northern Tool and Equipment
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/NTNEManifold.jpg
AeroDesigns JP – EBAY
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vacblock.jpg
Mettle Air – EBAY store
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/MettleAirP2Cmanifold.jpg
Here are a few pics when I rebuilt my Vanos. The rest of the pictures are in here (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=769)
They should be in order from left to right. these where in addition to the Beisan kit instructions.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Vanos-is-off.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vanos-cylinder-removal.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Vanos-internals.jpg
OEM Spacer with 129k miles on it.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/OEM-spacer.jpg
Beisan machined spacer
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Beisan-spacer.jpg
johnrando
07-26-2012, 06:32 AM
Nice!
danewilson77
07-26-2012, 02:53 PM
I'm a Nivo fanboy. Well done!
Good data on the spacers.
cakM3
07-26-2012, 03:00 PM
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Screenshot2012-07-26at70201PM.png
nike001
07-26-2012, 05:16 PM
Yep. I'm most definitely.. 100%..
http://www.workatjelly.com/images/jelly4.jpg
Nylon line and fittings came in yesterday from Automation Directs fulfillment center in Georgia. Nitra Nylon hose, 100 feet and fittings.
Will post pics of those later on.
Got word on my custom interior and the patterns are made for the E46 coupe. Right now they cut the leathers/alcantara and next is the stitching of all the pieces and let me tell you there is lots of them.
Here are a few new items...
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/connections.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/push-to-lock-fitting-on-nylon-hose.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/new-items-arrival.jpg
Since the Comp Turbo I have has water lines only for cooling the center cartridge we need to tap into the cars cooling system or build its own cooling system. I chose to use the cars existing cooling system.
This is the Coolant Radiator Hose Adapter:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Radiator-hose-adapter.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Radiator-hose-adapter.jpg)
Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Block port on the passengers side, it uses a M14 x 1.5 fitting to -6 an:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Turbo-Coolant-Lines-Diagram.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Turbo-Coolant-Lines-Diagram.jpg)
Block Coolant Drain plug is found here:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/M54-Block-coolant-drain.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/M54-Block-coolant-drain.jpg)
Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Heater Core Line going to the Coolant Expansion Tank, Treadstone sells the fitting for this:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Turbo-Coolant-Lines-Diagram-V2.0.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Turbo-Coolant-Lines-Diagram-V2.0.jpg)
Here is the Heater Hose Tee fitting from Treadstone Performance:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/img-1834-0-xlarge.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/img-1834-0-xlarge.jpg)
I finally got around to taking a pic of the Vacuum Block.
It has the 5 push-to-connect fittings for the nylon tubing and one for rubber hose. Also you can see the push-to-connect plugs for unused ports.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/vacuum-block.jpg
I finally wired up the Unichip for NA use.
Here is the quick lowdown: (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?p=1132)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Wire-labels.bmp
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Set-up-with-Netbook.bmp
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Multimeter-measuring.bmp
Connected the Unichip, Downloaded the latest firmware from January 2012 to it. Set up the base map and gave it a crank. Started right up. I made some fuel adjustments to see if I had control of fuel and I did. I also did it for timing and it worked.
So I am thinking I might dyno with just the unichip in NA form just for kicks. On average I have seen guys in south Africa getting 11 whp.
I have 2 reports today, well after I installed the Unichip I wanted to see if I can tune out that nasty chug chug chug the car does between 2400 - 3000 rpms and low and behold with a tweak here and there on the mapping it is gone. That is good news to me.
Now Report numero dos.
For those that haven't been keeping up with my threads, I have had bought stuff from Khalid mamood before for my Z cars. well I contracted him to copy the oem seat covers and make them in Alcantara, black leather and red leather. Then I went with the diamond pattern.
Here is a photoshop I did as a concept:
5359
Here is a sneak peek at the actual custom designed by me seat cover:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/P1030637.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/P1030638.jpg
These are the colors I chose:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/interior-innovations-colors.jpg
Hornung418
08-08-2012, 06:11 AM
Wow! That looks so awesome!
Horney...via TT.
Wow! That looks so awesome!
Horney...via TT.
No more Greenish alcantara! I am happy.
Oh I am also getting the Shift boot and ebrake boot.
cakM3
08-08-2012, 06:47 AM
Nivo.....we got to set up a meet sometime.....I got to see this project in person...:drool
Looking forward to seeing more!
Nivo.....we got to set up a meet sometime.....I got to see this project in person...:drool
Looking forward to seeing more!
LOL, I was going to paint the car last month but I am reserving that for later on, no way in hell I am going to strip it down that much while I have other projects going on at the same time.
It is a lot to do but I am getting it there.
Some call me Nivo of all trades...
johnrando
08-08-2012, 06:00 PM
Add me to the list, want to see in person.
Here is the Unichip Installed:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/DSC02312.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/DSC02315.jpg
3D Graphing of tuning
5367
UdubBadger
08-09-2012, 06:49 AM
I have 2 reports today, well after I installed the Unichip I wanted to see if I can tune out that nasty chug chug chug the car does between 2400 - 3000 rpms and low and behold with a tweak here and there on the mapping it is gone. That is good news to me.
Now Report numero dos.
For those that haven't been keeping up with my threads, I have had bought stuff from Khalid mamood before for my Z cars. well I contracted him to copy the oem seat covers and make them in Alcantara, black leather and red leather. Then I went with the diamond pattern.
Here is a photoshop I did as a concept:
5359
Here is a sneak peek at the actual custom designed by me seat cover:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/P1030637.jpg
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/P1030638.jpg
These are the colors I chose:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/interior-innovations-colors.jpg
Would love some more info on the seat covers Nivo. Can you post a new thread about it?
- Goin' H.A.M. Mobile
Ryans323i
08-09-2012, 07:05 AM
Amazing wealth of info here, great documenting Nivo. The seats, wow, they're going to be gorgeous. I love the cushion/diamond stitch, it's absolutely my favorite! Add me to the list as well, I can't wait to see her in person. Hope it's all done by Sig-fest 2013 and you and the wifey make it back down!
Would love some more info on the seat covers Nivo. Can you post a new thread about it?
- Goin' H.A.M. Mobile
Had a thread, got taken down...
But I went for something like this but of my own design:
http://blog.caranddriver.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/7njeilm0.jpg
That camera doesn't do it justice, too yellow...
the grey is alcantara, the black and red and leather.
5372
UdubBadger
08-09-2012, 12:34 PM
Had a thread, got taken down...
But I went for something like this but of my own design:
http://blog.caranddriver.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/7njeilm0.jpg
Hmmm well can u pm me the info then?
- Goin' H.A.M. Mobile
I finished the Catch can internals Yesterday.
Basically I reamed out the -10 an fitting on the catch can lid, I made it 5/8" I.D. so it accepted the 5/8" O.D. tube I bought from omnimodels.
That tube I brazed on with an aluminum brazing rod.
Then I got some aluminum flashing from home depot, cut it into 2 circles that would fit in the catch can. I also perforated them. I measured and cut holes in the perforated circles so the 5/8" tube can pass through. Some JB Weld was used to hold the bottom perforated circle in the catch can. Stainless Steel Scouring wool was used as a filter media.
5412
Looking at the diagram I drew up you can see that the can will always be under vacuum, Blow-by from the valve cover will be continuously coming into the catch can through the tube which will also bring in some oil. Oil and solids will be dropped and kept at the bottom while under vacuum the blow-by gasses will be filtered by the stainless steel wool before making its way to either the intake manifold under idle conditions or the turbo intake pipe during boost conditions.
I got busy replacing the Rear tension arm bushings (thanks Chad for the tool use) with Rogue engineering black polyurethane versions.
Also did the AKG steering coupler, the polyurethane version. steering is much tighter and way less tramlining with the wider tires.
Here are some pics:
Using a 2 ton puller because my coupler was stuck on good!
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/2-ton-2-jaw-puller-on-coupler.jpg
Why it was stuck on!
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/reason-why-coupler-gets-jammed.jpg
Coupler on with AKG polyurethane part!
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Coupler-installed.jpg
Hornung418
09-06-2012, 08:59 AM
How's the new coupler? Looks like a wonderful piece.
How's the new coupler? Looks like a wonderful piece.
It is really good.
danewilson77
10-09-2012, 02:38 PM
That camera doesn't do it justice, too yellow...
the grey is alcantara, the black and red and leather.
5372
Ahem....:foottap
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Other%20cars/P1030636.jpg
Ahem....:foottap
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Other%20cars/P1030636.jpg
I am taking pictures of certain things and I am installing the covers on the seats. :)
After a few months of owning my car back in 2010 the C Pillar trim fabric was sagging so back then I decided to use 3M 90 Super adhesive to tack it back up. It worked great since then up until November 2012 when it started to sag along with the B Pillar and a corner of the front A pillar trim fabric.
The past few days I decided to reupholster them with new fabric.
Well, the problem is what fabric to buy and what do I want for the look. Having done a few stereo installs through out the years I have used different fabrics from Hancock Fabric store and Jo-Ann fabrics. The issue with using them is that if you do not use a UV protection agent like scotchguard the fabric will fade.
That turned me to buying a yard of Carbon Fiber cloth and 2 yards of Mellotone Speaker grill fabric. The Carbon Fabric cloth I bought from Ebay for $22 for a linear yard. The Mellotone Speaker grill fabric I bought from Parts Express, that runs at $24.50 per linear yard.
I just got those 2 items in and went ahead with reupholstering my C pillars since I have them out already.
Now, i didn’t go with the carbon Fiber cloth for this install because it is very thin and the OEM felt surface was very uneven so it wouldn’t be very smooth looking. I settled on the Mellotone…
On my install I went and bought 2 different spray adhesives that have worked for me in the past. The first one is the Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive which you can buy at Advance Auto parts. The second is the ForceField Headliner Trim and Laminating Adhesive in Professional Strength.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Adhesive-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1379)
Next thing I did was strip off the OEM BMW fabric from the C Pillar covers.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Original-glue-vs-3M-90-adhesive-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1380)
Now this is the trick i use so the fabric sticks on. I bet you have tried time and time again to re-glue yours and they fall or sag after a few days or a few months. I did mine real quick back in 2010 and had started to sag 2 years later but that was using the 3M adhesive. Ok, back to my trick.. What I do if the Pillar covers have the felt on them is that I saturate them with the adhesive then let that cure. I then give it another coat and let that cure some. What this does is that it “rubberizes” the felt surface and this allows the final coat of adhesive be fully functional when it cures.
For the fabric you want to use the Forcefield Adhesive on the back side. Make sure you are a good distance away when spraying the adhesive, like 12″- 14″ or so away from the fabric. I let mine set in for about 3-4 minutes and you start seeing that the adhesive is curing some and looks and feels tacky/rubberized. DO NOT INSTALL THE FABRIC WITH WET ADHESIVE, you will have seep through. even though the Mellotone is thick it can seep through.
Now with both sides tacky/rubbery pull the fabric on top of the part working it in and making sure the fabric does not wrinkle or the front side touches the pillar cover. I tend to use my thumb or my palm to work the fabric on the surface. this is where having the semi cured surface comes into play as this is the part where you will make the adhesive seep through if it isn’t cured enough. I made sure I had extra fabric so I could wrap the fabric around the back. I also used the ForceField adhesive for tacking the fabric to the back. I just sprayed some adhesive on the news paper and with one finger grabbed some and spread it on the back of the areas on the C Pillar cover where the fabric would cover.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Adhesive-on-C-pillar-cured-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1381)
On the picture you can see how it looks with 2 coats of Permatex and a final coat of ForceField adhesives. The ForceField adhesive has a nice spray pattern and lays down smooth as long as you have a steady hand.
Here are the OEM fabric, Carbon Fiber fabric and the Mellotone speaker grill fabric.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Carbon-Fabric-Vs-Mellotone-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1383)
Here is the OEM fabric on the C Pillar:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Fabric-on-C-Pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1385)
Here is the Carbon Fiber fabric on the C Pillar:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Carbon-Fabric-on-C-pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1386)
Here is the Mellotone and what I chose for my project:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Mellotone-Fabric-on-C-Pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1387)
And a few shots of the finished product:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Mellotone-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1388)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Mellotone-2-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1389)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Mellotone-fabric-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1390)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Fabric-texture-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1391)
Ok, So this is project C Pillars done, next are B and C Pillars.
Oh yeah sneak peek at the seat covers partially on. this was like 2 weeks ago. Final picture will be when the full interior is finished. :p6443
cakM3
12-02-2012, 05:22 AM
After a few months of owning my car back in 2010 the C Pillar trim fabric was sagging so back then I decided to use 3M 90 Super adhesive to tack it back up. It worked great since then up until November 2012 when it started to sag along with the B Pillar and a corner of the front A pillar trim fabric.
The past few days I decided to reupholster them with new fabric.
Well, the problem is what fabric to buy and what do I want for the look. Having done a few stereo installs through out the years I have used different fabrics from Hancock Fabric store and Jo-Ann fabrics. The issue with using them is that if you do not use a UV protection agent like scotchguard the fabric will fade.
That turned me to buying a yard of Carbon Fiber cloth and 2 yards of Mellotone Speaker grill fabric. The Carbon Fabric cloth I bought from Ebay for $22 for a linear yard. The Mellotone Speaker grill fabric I bought from Parts Express, that runs at $24.50 per linear yard.
I just got those 2 items in and went ahead with reupholstering my C pillars since I have them out already.
Now, i didn’t go with the carbon Fiber cloth for this install because it is very thin and the OEM felt surface was very uneven so it wouldn’t be very smooth looking. I settled on the Mellotone…
On my install I went and bought 2 different spray adhesives that have worked for me in the past. The first one is the Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive which you can buy at Advance Auto parts. The second is the ForceField Headliner Trim and Laminating Adhesive in Professional Strength.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Adhesive-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1379)
Next thing I did was strip off the OEM BMW fabric from the C Pillar covers.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Original-glue-vs-3M-90-adhesive-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1380)
Now this is the trick i use so the fabric sticks on. I bet you have tried time and time again to re-glue yours and they fall or sag after a few days or a few months. I did mine real quick back in 2010 and had started to sag 2 years later but that was using the 3M adhesive. Ok, back to my trick.. What I do if the Pillar covers have the felt on them is that I saturate them with the adhesive then let that cure. I then give it another coat and let that cure some. What this does is that it “rubberizes” the felt surface and this allows the final coat of adhesive be fully functional when it cures.
For the fabric you want to use the Forcefield Adhesive on the back side. Make sure you are a good distance away when spraying the adhesive, like 12″- 14″ or so away from the fabric. I let mine set in for about 3-4 minutes and you start seeing that the adhesive is curing some and looks and feels tacky/rubberized. DO NOT INSTALL THE FABRIC WITH WET ADHESIVE, you will have seep through. even though the Mellotone is thick it can seep through.
Now with both sides tacky/rubbery pull the fabric on top of the part working it in and making sure the fabric does not wrinkle or the front side touches the pillar cover. I tend to use my thumb or my palm to work the fabric on the surface. this is where having the semi cured surface comes into play as this is the part where you will make the adhesive seep through if it isn’t cured enough. I made sure I had extra fabric so I could wrap the fabric around the back. I also used the ForceField adhesive for tacking the fabric to the back. I just sprayed some adhesive on the news paper and with one finger grabbed some and spread it on the back of the areas on the C Pillar cover where the fabric would cover.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Adhesive-on-C-pillar-cured-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1381)
On the picture you can see how it looks with 2 coats of Permatex and a final coat of ForceField adhesives. The ForceField adhesive has a nice spray pattern and lays down smooth as long as you have a steady hand.
Here are the OEM fabric, Carbon Fiber fabric and the Mellotone speaker grill fabric.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Carbon-Fabric-Vs-Mellotone-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1383)
Here is the OEM fabric on the C Pillar:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Fabric-on-C-Pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1385)
Here is the Carbon Fiber fabric on the C Pillar:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Carbon-Fabric-on-C-pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1386)
Here is the Mellotone and what I chose for my project:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Mellotone-Fabric-on-C-Pillar-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1387)
And a few shots of the finished product:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Mellotone-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1388)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/OEM-Vs-Mellotone-2-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1389)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Mellotone-fabric-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1390)
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Fabric-texture-200x200.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?attachment_id=1391)
Ok, So this is project C Pillars done, next are B and C Pillars.
Nivo :hi
I really love what you did to your pillars! I have to agree that the Mellotone looks so much better than the original material (at least from the pics above)....looking forward to seeing more! :thumbsup
danewilson77
12-02-2012, 05:30 AM
Nivo...that really looks great.
Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA
Nivo :hi
I really love what you did to your pillars! I have to agree that the Mellotone looks so much better than the original material (at least from the pics above)....looking forward to seeing more! :thumbsup
most speaker grill cloth/fabrics have UV protection and this is no exception, plus the wendell fabrics Mellotone is thicker then the regular stuff at jo-ann fabrics. Wendell fabrics is from South Carolina too. Parts Express sells their black Premium Mellotone branded fabric.
The fabric is more black then it appears in the pictures. Goes with the new black leather. And I know the fabric will stay put for years to come.
danewilson77
Nivo...that really looks great.
Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA
It definitely looks way better in person, Looks similar to some VW/Audi fabrics they use in interiors:
6446
Mellotone®, a division of Wendell Fabrics Corporation, has been supplying quality acoustical fabrics to the contracting trade since 1947. Mellotone®Fabrics assure these advantages:
Unobstructed, distortion-free passage of sound.
Dust-resistant/mildew-proof
Minimal fading
Easy cleaning with vacuum or damp cloth
High tensile strength of individual fabric that will not sag or buckle when properly installed
All of the Mellotone® Acoustic Fabrics Will Pass the ASTM E-84 Flame Test With A Class A Rating, as well as the UL 6500 pill test.
cakM3
12-02-2012, 08:01 AM
Nivo,
Are you going to be doing your headliner in this material as well?
Nivo,
Are you going to be doing your headliner in this material as well?
Not as of yet, but might finish off the interior with it during the spring/summer time but right now the OEM is holding up fine.
Also soon I have to find a place for the Carbon Fiber fabric too... I have it, why not. better then Vinyl too.
cakM3
12-02-2012, 06:57 PM
Can't wait to see everything done on your project Nivo! :thumbsup
Got to almost finishing off the wiring schematic for the Unichip to the E46.
I still need to add the DISA control portion, Vanos control and Meth Injection control.
It is lots of work so far for this but in the end anyone will be able to duplicate it as I have done most of the work.
I hope that eventually others will tackle this themselves!
Here is the E46, MS45 Schematic for controlling the turbo stuff (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MS45-Schematic-Full-Throttle-control_01_02.tif).
This looks like it will also work on the 530i with MS45.
95m3ltw
02-16-2013, 12:18 PM
Any luck? Also the schematic link does not work.
Any luck? Also the schematic link does not work.
I am buying a saab turbo for my daily driver then the knife goes in.
schematic is a pop up link to download the tif file. It is not finished yet as I have to take the time to add more things to it.
danewilson77
02-16-2013, 12:53 PM
I am buying a saab turbo for my daily driver then the knife goes in.
schematic is a pop up link o download the tif file. It is not finished yet as I have to take the time to add more things to it.
Website is looking great Nivo. I find everything you have there, very helpful.
For instance....
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=1434
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?page_id=752
Great stuff, and I applaud the hard work.
Also waiting for the final installed pics :drool
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/?p=1166
Thanks Dane, I am on so many background projects right now it's crazy. Hopefully others with M54 cars will benefit from them.
Avetiso
05-24-2013, 09:14 AM
Those look very comfortable to sit on. The seats.
Sorry for the lack of updates, but as I posted on the other thread I ended up buying a '91 Twin Turbo 300ZX. Ended up putting in some work in that.
Avetiso
10-02-2013, 06:09 PM
Any updates?
Ok guys and gals, to tune the MS45 DME tuners had to flash it on the bench using the BDM interface on the ECU PCB. The ECU would be opened, then powered up using a +12 volt power supply and using a power cable like this (http://www.ecu-cables.de/product_info.php?info=p97_bdm-siemens-ms45.html)From ECU Cables:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/bdm_siemens_ms45-300x300.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/bdm_siemens_ms45.jpg)
Then the tuner would set up the EVC BDM100 or CMD Flash BDM tool (or clone) to the ECU holder frame and ECU.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/bdm100-225x300.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/bdm100.jpg)http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/MS45-BDM-interconnect-216x300.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/MS45-BDM-interconnect.jpg)
Finally once the tuner is all set up he/she can now start extracting the original bin file to modify using software which can cost $1,800 – $4,500 USD which puts this set up out of the reach of most peoples hands.
Some guys have the clone BDM100 tools and use TunerPro but you must have a .xdf definition file.
All that was time consuming for both the tuner and the customer that was paying for dyno time, Imagine the costs.
It is now 2014 and things have gotten better for those of you with Siemens MS45 DME’s. Some tuners are now doing live tuning using Dimsport Race software and the MET 16 EPROM emulator (http://www.dimsport.com/pdf/en/met16.pdf).
This will allow live tuning on a dyno for any tuner.
Now that is all fine for the proffessionals to earn their money but how about the guy who knows tuning and knows what timing and fuel changes do?
Well, Alientech has the powergate 3 handheld module with touch screen. This is sold to many tuners to tune via the OBDII port on many vehicles. ECU program calls it their E3 programmer, VR Tuned calls it ECU Flash, Vishnu has the OpenFlash Tablet and so on but all are based on the AlienTech Powergate 3.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/powergate-3.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/powergate-3.jpg)
This handheld flasher can do MS42, MS43, MS45 and many more through the OBDII Port. The Powergate 3 can hold up to 5 tunes with the internal memory and holds the original bin file. The Powergate 3 does marry to your car but can be used on another car if you put the stock tune back into the car it originally was married to.
Now, the way the Powergate 3 works is for the consumer they get a Slave unit. This unit marries to the car it is used on. Now for the tuner they get the Master unit also known as the Decoder. The Decoder unit allows the encrypting and un-encrypting of the bin file that got read with the Slave Powergate 3.
The Slave Powergate 3 reads/writes an encrypted file which is not useable by anyone unless it is decoded by the Decoder unit. This is the only drawback to the unit because not everyone can get the Decoder (tuners when they sell you the Powergate 3 do not tell you that you are stuck with them for the encryption and un-encryption of your bin files. The Powergate 3 does do checksum correction.
I can get a Decoder and Slave Powergate 3 for my car to test a few things out. I can also sell Powergate 3 Slave units to you if you live in the U.S.A. This allows me to use the decoder to un-encrypt your file so you can tune your file. Once your file is tuned you then can send me the file so I can encrypt then send back to you. All you do after that is flash it into your car! MS45 tuned via OBDII port.
Wait did you just ask yourself what software to use to tune your bin file? It is a good think you did ask yourself that!
Bimmer Editor software and MS45 module is what you need!
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/BimmerEditor_Software-300x207.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/BimmerEditor_Software.jpg)
Bim-Tun will be releasing their MS45 module soon, this module is basically like the .XDF file needed for the TunerPro software. The Bimmer Editor software costs $199 and the DME specific Modules like MS41, MS42, MS43 and soon MS45 cost $199 each. So basically the Bimmer Editor Software for one car is $398 then couple that with the Powergate 3 at $325 and you have a self tuning suite for $723!
This has been known some time now but I am getting around to posting it.
The machine shop agreed to make the M54 BMW guys an aluminum intake manifold flange to make custom intake manifolds. These flanges were designed after the O.E.M. intake manifold specs. I sent them a full O.E.M. M54B30 intake manifold so they can make the flange.
This is the first time that I believe a M54 intake manifold flange has been designed and made. If this flange sells a decent amount the machine shop agreed on also making runners, and a DISA compatible plenum to hold the DISA and Throttle body.
With this flange you can make custom aluminum intake manifolds for your race car or your boosted E46.
As of right now the cost per flange is $315 per flange plus shipping.
If you want a flange they will be available through me. you can contact me at e46turbo330ci@yahoo.com
My batch coming in next week is already sold.
(e46turbo330ci@yahoo.com)
Here is the M54B30 intake manifold CNC flangedrawing:
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-Manifold-flange-2-300x125.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-Manifold-flange-2.jpg) http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-Intakeflange2-300x75.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-Intakeflange2.jpg) http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-manifold-flange-300x111.jpg (http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/M54-manifold-flange.jpg)
S-Chip AST – Mike at S-Chip AST will tune your DME if you send it in or remote tuned. You will need a Galletto 1260 or Modified VAGCOM KKL OBD Cable and the EOBD flash/write software. You can read/write from OBDII Port. Contact: info@s-chip-nl
Frank Smith – Frank will tune your car local to Maryland on his dyno, He does live tuning using an MET16 emulator attached to the DME. His pricing is $2,000 for a car specific tune on the dyno with your turbo kit. Contact: info@tuningtechfs.com
Hornung418
06-27-2014, 12:52 PM
Holy shit... $2000!!
What would he charge for a N/A car?
Sent from my GS3.
Holy shit... $2000!!
What would he charge for a N/A car?
Sent from my GS3.
The cheapest custom dyno tune quote I have seen for a custom turbo kit is $3,500 and that was doing BDM tuning so after a pull the DME had to come out tuned/flashed then installed again then another pull and so on. BTW that is not including the dyno time! Just tuner price.
Frank includes dyno time and it is done in a few days to perfect the tune. Plus he opens the DME, installs the emulator which allows him to tune the DME in real time. About the only guy in the North East that does such a thing with BMW's or Porsche.
He has tunes that you can flash which cost way less. The $2,000 is for custom tune to a virgin turbo car, meaning that it has not yet been set up in the DME for boost. If it was a mustang or camaro that cost would be $400-$500 for a custom dyno tune...but since it is a BMW and the tuning tools cost tuners $5,000 plus... they charge way more.
Things might get better once Bimmer Editor gets released for the MS45 cars. But even then there are different software for each hardware part #.
Edit, just realized that you are in Maryland so you are closer to him them me, I am about 6 hours away. but he is an option to have yor car tuned professionally.
Flanges done, going to their owners.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/IMG_0570.jpeg
Also in the works:
Intake runner base plate to make a plenum.
http://www.e46turbo330ci.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Runner_Baseplate.jpg
Taliben
06-24-2015, 11:54 AM
Any updates?
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