Chronicles of a Titanium Silver ZHP Coupe Rebuild [Archive] - BMW E46 330 ZHP For Sale Forum

View Full Version : Chronicles of a Titanium Silver ZHP Coupe Rebuild

MasterC17

02-03-2011, 04:42 PM

To start the full Re-Build can be seen here (http://www.skidooforums.com/e46) if interested. Onto the story!

In September of 2009 I began my search for a car. I went back and forth a few times, but the E46 seemed to be calling to me. I also experienced some of my Uncle's driving in an M3 about a year prior which was and still is the most intense driving experience I have ever had. After finally settling on an E46 I laid out my ground rules. The car had to have less than 60k miles, and had to be a manual, beyond that price was my only constraint. I looked at a few E46's in September, October, and November but none of them worked out. While doing my usual round on Cars.com, Autotrader, and eBay I came across a wrecked and salvaged ZHP on eBay from a dealer in Pennsylvania. While I had previously concluded there was no way I could afford a ZHP with less than 60k miles I added it to my watch list, although not seriously considering it. With about two hours left in the auction I decided I wanted the car - impulsive...probably. I crunched the numbers and decided on a price. I waited until there was ten seconds left in the auction and bid $8000. I won it by hitting the reserve at $7900. Mind you with about a minute left in the auction I decided to up my number from $7750 to $8000. To be honest, I couldn't believe I had just won the car, it took a while to set in. Soon the paperwork was through and I was waiting for Thanksgiving weekend to pick the car up. Before I go further I would like to thank my Father for all the help he provided on re-building the car, my Grandfather for providing a place to do the rebuild at, and the BMW of Sudbury Staff for providing the parts I needed in a timely manner and being helpful throughout. My Father and I picked up the car the day after Thanksgiving - other than a few small mishaps everything went well.

The goal of this project was to bring the car back to what it was before the accident using all factory, new, BMW Parts. A nice positive to this particular car was that it was a very nice and clean car before the accident owned by people who cared. It has also had an Oil Change, Brakes, Rotors, and New Tires installed only 500 miles prior to the accident.

We began working on the car the next day. This is what we began with.

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/1.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/2.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/3.jpg

After taking off all broken pieces this is what we were left with.

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/14.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/15.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/22.jpg

Other than the obvious, the Windshield was cracked, both Airbags deployed, and, well, a lot more :rofl.

I began buying new parts for the car and soon it was down at the body shop for frame alignment and body work. Here are pictures prior to the work.

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/41.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/42.jpg

During the work:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/47.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/48.jpg

And finally what it looked like before I got it back:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/52.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/53.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/54.jpg

New Cooling System installed:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/63.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/64.jpg

More parts installed, old windshield removed for replacing.

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/73.jpg

New glass installed:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/85.jpg

Ready to go back to the body shop:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/95.jpg

Finished at the body shop:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/103.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/107.jpg

Coming together:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/129.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/130.jpg

New Battery Safety Terminal installed:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/133.jpg

It's done!

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/135.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/138.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/139.jpg

Nevermind...

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/142.jpg

Try 2?:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/147.jpg

Overall, it took me three tries to finally pass the re-built inspection to get my reconstructed title and insure and register the car. The first try resulted in failure due to lack of paperwork. The second try resulted in failure due to the airbag light being on - the first passenger airbag replacement I ordered was for an older car and was not compatible. Finally got the airbag squared away with all paperwork and passed on March 24, 2010.

I've had many people inquire about the total cost - after finishing up the few defects left this Spring the final cost will be around $16k. I initially hoped I could get into the car for $12-13k but that was not possible.

Overall, I would NOT suggest people doing this as a way to get into a car "cheap". To begin with, you would need to buy it straight from the insurance company and probably use aftermarket parts to get into the car for at or lower than the realistic value of the car is after rebuilding it.

However, the experience I attained from doing this rebuild was priceless. Before the rebuild I could barely could use a ratchet in the proper fashion. Coolant was something you used to cool "stuff". Water pumps and thermostats were foreign objects. A valve cover gasket...? Since then I have installed all modifications listed below, changed the valve cover gasket, done the VANOS seals and rattle kit, wired my gauges and radar detector, and much more. While I wouldn't consider myself a mechanic or electrician, I at least now have the knowledge do nearly everything to my car by myself provided I have the proper tools. It was also a very fun and rewarding experience. I have formed a bond with this car that will be hard, if ever it comes, to break.

In Conclusion, I absolutely love the ZHP. Looking back on it, I'm very happy with what I ended up with. A 2001 Sport Package 330 can not compare, in my opinion, to what the ZHP has to offer. While it may have been cheaper and a lot less work, it wouldn't be like what I have.

Again, I would like to thank my Father for the help he provided with re-building the car, my Grandfather for providing the place to do the rebuild at, and the BMW of Sudbury Staff for providing the parts I needed in a timely manner and being helpful throughout. I couldn't have done it without any of them.

Feel free to ask any questions and make any comments you like. I'm sure I'll be modifying this post in the future.

Onto the Post-Rebuild Project!

1st Mod:

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/148.jpg

Second Mod (Radar Detector):

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/162.jpg

Next was "repairing" my Cube Trim which was pretty much murdered on the drivers side.

Before:
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/174.jpg

After:
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/175.jpg

Valve Cover Gasket:
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/179.jpg

AFE Intake:
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/181.jpg

Carbon Fiber Hood Painted (Came out Great!):

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/185.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/186.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/187.jpg

Meyle HD FCAB's (Old one's were shot due to accident):

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/189.jpg

VANOS + CCV (NOT recommended to do together...):

http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/193.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/194.jpg
http://skidooforums.com/e46/images/199.jpg

New Alcantara Wheel + Shift Knob:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/christmas10.jpg

Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, & Voltmeter Gauges:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9206.jpg

Next was armrest delete:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9247.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9244.jpg

2/04/2011:

Schroth Harness Installed

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9233.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9234.jpg

2/13/2011:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9257.jpg

Already had the iPod Charger connected there. Re-routed the auxiliary wire to euro-tray. And last I put a super-stealth garage door opener switch button in :rockon

I need to paint the nut black, but it's pretty cool and a lot better than having the remote on the sun visor.

3/2/2011:

Saturday I did my Oil Change at 4k Miles and replaced the Mobil 1 0W-40 with Redline 5W-30.

The car
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02312.jpg

The tools
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02313.jpg

The fail
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02314.jpg

Onto relocating the temperature sender!
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02315.jpg

Accidentally turned sensor wrong way, making it tighter than distribution block. So I had to hold the distribution block in place while loosening the temp sensor. Took about an hour due to lack of space.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02318.jpg

I claim victory.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02316.jpg

Into the drain plug location you go
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02319.jpg

:(
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02321.jpg

So, it took about 2 hours total but in the end everything worked out. Well, except now the oil pressure sensor is leaking because it got knocked around trying to get the temp sensor out...:facepalm. At this point I will be replacing the entire distribution block and pressure sensor with a new pressure sensor that fits directly in the M12x1.5 hole! A lot less potential for leaks.

3/15/2011:

I am happy to report I now have accurate oil temperature readings! Here is the wiring I did. I'll get a picture of the gauge when I get a chance.

Starts at the oil drain plug (wrapped it with electrical tape to protect it):

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9499.jpg

Moves back to metal reinforcement plate:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9503.jpg

Goes to oil level sensor wiring:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9506.jpg

Follows oil level sensor wiring:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9508.jpg

Follows it more:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9511.jpg

Goes through a little hole and follows some other wiring and in the background you can see the oil distribution block where it connects to the wiring from before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9513.jpg

Oil Temp works!

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0597.jpg

Front & Rear BMW Performance Rotors & StopTech Pads

Did the Front & Rear Pads & Rotors yesterday. BMW Performance Rotors all around with Stoptech Street Performance Pads.

Pads:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9676.jpg

Fronts Before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9687.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9688.jpg

Fronts After:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9690.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9691.jpg

Rears Before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9669.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9673.jpg

Rears After:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9679.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9681.jpg

My Car went on a diet today, here's what she lost:

Jackstand + Misc.: 7lbs
Trunk Panel: 6lbs
Trunk Mat: 4lbs
Spare: 28lbs
Lower Seat Belts: 1.5lbs
Smaller Seat Back: 12lbs
Larger Seat Back: 24lbs
Lower Seat: 13lbs
Side Bolsters: 3.5lbs

Total: 99lbs. Just couldn't hit 100. Looks like something else will need to come out haha. No pics for now - sorry.

That brings total (est.) weight to 3217.6.

CF Hood: -20lbs (12lbs compared to 32)
Center Armrest Delete: -7lbs
Performance Rotors: -12.4lbs
Today: -99lbs

I would love to get below 3200lbs; would also love to get some lighter front seats and wheels. We shall see what the future brings.

4.29.2011

Alright, so the first Autocross of the year is tomorrow. Here's some updates/info.

I bought SSR Comp-H's w/ Goodyear F1 Asymmetric tires. Here's data comparing weights to my old track wheels (ZHP's w/ Michelin Pilot Sports):

ZHP Front Wheel: 28lbs
ZHP Rear Wheel: 28.25lbs
Michelin PS 225/40/18: 21.25lbs
Michelin PS 255/35/18: 22.5lbs

SSR Wheel: 18.5lbs
Goodyear F1 245/40/18: 23.25lbs

ZHP Front + Michelin PS 225: 49.25lbs each
ZHP Rear + Michelin PS 255: 50.75lbs each
SSR + Goodyear F1 245/40/18's: 41.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 225: 39.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 255: 41lbs each

Current Weight Savings: 33lbs total
Weight Savings w/ Michelin PS over Goodyear F1's: 38.5lbs total

Anyway, I dismounted my ZHP Wheels w/ Continental All Seasons and put on the SSR's with the Goodyear F1's. Saves me 33lbs over stock and probably more because I'm pretty sure the Continental's weigh more than the Michelins. Eventually will save 38.5lbs when I swap the Michelin's over the Goodyear's.

So 3217.6 - 33 = 3184.6lbs. On top of this I removed both front floor mats (2 lbs) and 2 rear headrests (2 lbs). This brings total current weight to (est.) 3180.6lbs.

I topped off my oil, washed the car, cleaned the interior, and taped it up for Autocross. Unfortunately, I didn't have time last week to do most of what I wanted to and so I still have a bunch of things to do to the car, but we're slowly getting there.

In terms of the wheels, the Goodyear's are much, much better over the Continentals, then again the Goodyear's are a Summer tire and the Conti's an all-season tire but still, it was a very noticeable difference. The wheels seems more connected to the road and more responsive. I will comment more on the wheels tomorrow.

In other terms, the wheels sit flush with the fenders and look :jawdrop

Here's some pictures as the car stands:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9717.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9710.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9706.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9707.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9708.jpg

5.30.2011
Today I replaced the Water Pump (Stewart), Thermostat (Zionsville 88C), Pulley (Factory), Condenser (Factory), Receiver Drier (Behr), Coolant Flush (50/50 BMW/Distilled), Passengers Fender Liner (Factory BMW), New Clear Bumper Reflectors (Khoalty), fixed passengers Fog Light (temporarily), and fixed small portion of bumper.

Note: Haven't driven it, but just sitting the car is at about 88-89 Celcius (190-192f) compared to stock 96-97 (204-206f). Total drop of about 8C/15f. I am happy with the results.

Tear-Down Complete:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0191.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0200-1.jpg

Zionsville Thermostat, BMW Pulley, & Stewart Water Pump Installed:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0206.jpg

Behr Receiver Drier:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0208.jpg

BMW Condenser Installed & Radiator Assembly Re-Installed:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0210.jpg

Assembly Complete:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0218.jpg

Oh no...

Extended
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0228.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0229-1.jpg
Shortened
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0230.jpg

Oh yes! An adjustable brake-duct to air filter hose, not exactly factory looking but pretty much impossible to spot anyway.

6.9.2011

3180.6lbs -9.5lbs, -4lbs (steering column under-panel, passenger upper handle, misc metal) = 3167.1. Installed passenger harness (Schroth Quick-Fit) and installed the LED for something special :).

What could this be?
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0464.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0470-1.jpg

How she sits:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0465-1.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0467-1.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0473-1.jpg

Next is to strip front door panels, maybe remove H/K Amp, maybe some other things too. The problem I am starting to face is offsetting the balance of the car. Looks like some coil-overs may be needed, now I just need the money for them :rofl

Fun Facts:

Every part replaced was Factory BMW except:

AFE Intake
Behr Receiver Drier
Euro-Spec/DDM-Spec Carbon Fiber Hood
Khoalty Blackout Grills
Khoalty Clear Reflectors
Meyle HD FCAB's

Every part replaced was Brand New except:

Passenger Headlight
Headlight Filler Cover
Driver's Airbag
Passenger Airbag
AFE Intake
1 M3 Hood Shock

I have over 30 receipts from the dealer.

It took over 200 parts to replace everything.

Stock 330Ci w/ ZHP, H/K, Sunroof & Heated/Power Seats: 3191 lbs (wet) & 235 HP @ The Crank
Current: 3001 lbs (wet) & 238 HP @ The Crank
2013 Goal: 2600 lbs (wet) & 305HP @ The Crank
My definition of (wet): All fluids topped off (including gas) with no driver.

danewilson77

02-03-2011, 04:53 PM

MC17...did you intend to name your thread the same as Pyreguy's? If not...just PM me what you want it to say.

Marcus-SanDiego

02-03-2011, 05:15 PM

Dane, it was a glitch. Lance posted something and it put his post at the top of MasterC's thread. I requested that MasterC create a new thread. I am deleting the other one.

Marcus-SanDiego

02-03-2011, 05:17 PM

And now let me say what I said in the other thread: nice work, MasterC. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the writeup.

pyreguy

02-03-2011, 06:13 PM

Excellent work!

danewilson77

02-03-2011, 06:31 PM

Dane, it was a glitch. Lance posted something and it put his post at the top of MasterC's thread. I requested that MasterC create a new thread. I am deleting the other one.

Ok....got it. Weird.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

JohnnyGraphic

02-03-2011, 06:41 PM

Totally excellent work!!! The paint on the carbon fiber hood is very nice & unique!

It always feels good when you can do your own work.

Johnny

mimalmo

02-03-2011, 06:47 PM

Awesome. I love seeing a car "come back from the dead".

Mtnman

02-03-2011, 07:06 PM

that hood paint is frieken sweet... i love it. great job with the whole car. i bet it is a bond the you never break...

danewilson77

02-03-2011, 07:12 PM

Review the afe intake somewhere. Make a new thread in diy or something. When you get a chance. Please. Thanks.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

MasterC17

02-04-2011, 02:48 PM

Review the afe intake somewhere. Make a new thread in diy or something. When you get a chance. Please. Thanks.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

At your request, posted here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1017-AFE-Intake&p=18424#

jjcools

02-04-2011, 04:07 PM

Looks really nice!

Pics of the armrest delete?

danewilson77

02-04-2011, 04:18 PM

At your request, posted here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1017-AFE-Intake&p=18424#

Thanks brutha.

MasterC17

02-06-2011, 11:10 AM

Looks really nice!

Pics of the armrest delete?

Took a couple today. I really like it - it looks a lot cleaner and the armrest was constantly getting in my (e-brake's) way. If I had an automatic I doubt I would have minded it as much.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9247.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9244.jpg

jjcools

02-06-2011, 11:22 AM

I like tht delete. I bet it feels more roomy in there too. Hmmmmm. might have to try this one.

mimalmo

02-06-2011, 11:36 AM

I use my armrest whenever I drive. It would bug me to not have it.

danewilson77

02-06-2011, 02:50 PM

I use my armrest whenever I drive. It would bug me to not have it.

+1...

az3579

02-06-2011, 04:32 PM

For some reason, any pics you have of the interior come out extra dark, which makes it look soooooo much cooler!
I love the minute changes in your interior. Minute, but dramatic. Gorgeous.

mr hish

02-07-2011, 07:08 AM

nice work dude it feels great when you look at the pictures of the car before and after, it makes you happy of what you have done . btw how much did the new alcantara steering wheel cost you?

Washburn

02-07-2011, 10:30 AM

How did you repair/rejuvenate the driver's side cube trim on the door?
Thanks!

MasterC17

02-08-2011, 03:00 PM

In terms of liking or not liking the armrest it's simply a matter of personal opinion. I guess one reason I found it useless was because I couldn't use it even if I wanted too. I'm short and my seat is pretty far up so I couldn't really put my arm on the armrest anyway. And when I'd go to pull my e-brake which I need to adjust it would hit the armrest and I would have to pull it up and then put it back down when putting the e-brake down. I found it annoying, :rofl

For some reason, any pics you have of the interior come out extra dark, which makes it look soooooo much cooler!
I love the minute changes in your interior. Minute, but dramatic. Gorgeous.

Thanks! I always try to make the black's dark in my photo's, and my interior happens to be almost all black.

nice work dude it feels great when you look at the pictures of the car before and after, it makes you happy of what you have done . btw how much did the new alcantara steering wheel cost you?

Thank you. I had my steering wheel re-wrapped by this guy: http://steeringwheels.carbonmade.com/. It cost me $250 for everything including the tri-stitch and leather band. I'm very happy with it.

How did you repair/rejuvenate the driver's side cube trim on the door?
Thanks!

I took a can of Krylon Semi-Gloss Paint and sprayed a little into the cap. Then, I took a small brush and dabbed it in the paint and applied a light layer of paint over the scraped/damaged parts. In certain lights you can see that the parts you paint are slightly shinier than the rest, but for big spots and scratches it looks 100% better nonetheless. Thinner layers of paint work and match better. Try a small spot first to make sure it's working as desired.

It literally went from looking like this (that giant white spot WAS there):
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_7606.jpg

To this! (you can see where I went a little too heavy with the paint, never really notice it though):
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_7620.jpg

Washburn

02-08-2011, 03:06 PM

MasterC17

02-08-2011, 04:39 PM

Thanks for the reply master...very good work..
my arm rest cube trim has a few TINY scratches of the same nature, which I believe is from the seat buckle scraping against it when I or prev owner dragged it from behind the seat to put it on...
Do you have a link to the exact Krylon Paint that you mentioned? Which color did you get? black? or clear?
Thanks again.

Threw the can away (used it all on other stuff) so I'm not 100% sure but 99% sure it's the one on this page:

http://www.krylon.com/products/indooroutdoor_paint/

Then click on the black icon in the chart and it's Semi-Gloss Black 51603.

That's what my previous owner did, apparently they never noticed/cared :rofl

Washburn

02-08-2011, 04:59 PM

Thanks a lot, Master!
- I think I will give it a try

Jon D

02-08-2011, 06:01 PM

I did the same repair using Krylon Hammered Black. I had some lying around from another project, it's real close but not perfect. Same method.

SC4ME

02-08-2011, 08:29 PM

I agree with everyone else, awesome job. And that you did it yourself, going from a novice to bona fide mechanic in the process, is cool. Your bond with that car will never leave. Enjoy it.

MasterC17

02-13-2011, 05:35 AM

Thanks everyone!

Here's some fun facts:

Every part replaced was Factory BMW except:

AFE Intake
Behr Receiver Drier
Euro-Spec/DDM-Spec Carbon Fiber Hood
Khoalty Blackout Grills
Khoalty Clear Reflectors
Meyle HD FCAB's

Every part replaced was Brand New except:

Passenger Headlight
Headlight Filler Cover
Driver's Airbag
Passenger Airbag
AFE Intake
1 M3 Hood Shock

I have over 30 receipts from the dealer.

It took over 200 parts to replace everything.

:hi

MasterC17

02-13-2011, 07:52 PM

Had some free time today so I did this:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9257.jpg

Already had the iPod Charger connected there. Re-routed the auxiliary wire to euro-tray. And last I put a super-stealth garage door opener switch button in :rockon

I need to paint the nut black, but it's pretty cool and a lot better than having the remote on the sun visor.

kayger12

02-13-2011, 07:58 PM

Very nice. I'd love to run a charger hook up for my MP3.

MasterC17

02-13-2011, 08:03 PM

Very nice. I'd love to run a charger hook up for my MP3.

Here's what I did:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_8714.jpg

Cig Lighter is about $5 from the dealer. Charger is about $2 off eBay. Connectors are about $2.50 at Lowe's. Wire is about $2 at Lowe's. So I'd say about $10-$15. I got the negative from the screw on the e-brake (pictured). I got the positive from the cigarette lighter up front. Just run the wire under the console and around the shifter and tap into it. Tape it all up and run into the Euro-Tray and all is well!

kayger12

02-13-2011, 08:07 PM

Here's what I did:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_8714.jpg

Cig Lighter is about $5 from the dealer. Charger is about $2 off eBay. Connectors are about $2.50 at Lowe's. Wire is about $2 at Lowe's. So I'd say about $10-$15. I got the negative from the screw on the e-brake (pictured). I got the positive from the cigarette lighter up front. Just run the wire under the console and around the shifter and tap into it. Tape it all up and run into the Euro-Tray and all is well!

Excellent! Very helpful info. This is now officially added to my list.

Thanks!

reggie_0124

02-26-2011, 11:52 AM

Great job! I have the same car and I love it!

MasterC17

03-02-2011, 07:15 PM

Great job! I have the same car and I love it!

Thanks!

Saturday I did my Oil Change at 4k Miles and replaced the Mobil 1 0W-40 with Redline 5W-30.

The car
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02312.jpg

The tools
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02313.jpg

The fail
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02314.jpg

Onto relocating the temperature sender!
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02315.jpg

Accidentally turned sensor wrong way, making it tighter than distribution block. So I had to hold the distribution block in place while loosening the temp sensor. Took about an hour due to lack of space.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02318.jpg

I claim victory.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02316.jpg

Into the drain plug location you go
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02319.jpg

:(
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/DSC02321.jpg

So, it took about 2 hours total but in the end everything worked out. Well, except now the oil pressure sensor is leaking because it got knocked around trying to get the temp sensor out...:facepalm. At this point I will be replacing the entire distribution block and pressure sensor with a new pressure sensor that fits directly in the M12x1.5 hole! A lot less potential for leaks.

Initial impressions of Redline 5W-30: Car seems to shift smoother...not sure why. Otherwise, no noticeable difference so far. Mobil 1 will be sent out to be tested and will do the same for the Redline @ 4k miles so we'll see which is the better oil.

MasterC17

03-15-2011, 02:52 AM

I am happy to report I now have accurate oil temperature readings! Here is the wiring I did. I'll get a picture of the gauge when I get a chance.

Starts at the oil drain plug (wrapped it with electrical tape to protect it):

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9499.jpg

Moves back to metal reinforcement plate:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9503.jpg

Goes to oil level sensor wiring:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9506.jpg

Follows oil level sensor wiring:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9508.jpg

Follows it more:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9511.jpg

Goes through a little hole and follows some other wiring and in the background you can see the oil distribution block where it connects to the wiring from before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9513.jpg

Marcus-SanDiego

03-15-2011, 07:02 AM

Congrats, MC.

MasterC17

03-17-2011, 02:04 PM

Apologize for the crappy pic.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0597.jpg

:wub

Oil seems to stay between 200-210 during normal driving. Kind of surprised, I would have guessed it would be more around 225-230. We'll see what it gets to at the track, then I will decide whether or not to get an oil cooler.

spencers

03-17-2011, 02:58 PM

MasterC17

03-17-2011, 03:16 PM

I'm curious how you will do future oil changes with the temperature sensor in the oil plug location. MityVac? Or is the plug easily removable?

I remember following your thread on E46fanatics (or perhaps it was on bimmerforums), and enjoyed every minute and picture of it!

It was E46Fanatics, thanks! :)

It's actually very easy to change the oil from the drain plug location - I initially was worried about this too but literally you just pop the plug off (takes two seconds), unscrew the sender, let it drain, torque it to 25nm back in, and push the clip back on. So it's really no more of a pain than a regular drain plug! The electrical tape over it is just to cover it, you can still remove and put back the plug without touching the tape.

MasterC17

03-31-2011, 03:15 PM

I wonder what all this stuff is for? :dunno

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9604.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9606.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9605.jpg

On a side note I got the oil temp to 220 pushing the car. We'll see how it goes during Autocross the end of April.

spencers

03-31-2011, 07:56 PM

nice haul! I love getting new parts/stuff :)

MasterC17

04-04-2011, 12:21 PM

Another update.

Installed new oil pressure sensor and removed old one.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9608.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9609.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9610.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9617.jpg

And I also re-oiled my AFE Intake which probably hadn't been done for years.

Before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9618.jpg

After (missed a few spots, oops):

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9633.jpg

MasterC17

04-13-2011, 05:06 PM

Things to do from April 17-24:

Install Rotors & Pads (DONE)

Install T-Stat, Water Pump, Condenser, Drier, Hoses, WP Pulley, & Temp Sensor
Install Brake Duct to Intake Hose
Install Fender Liner Lower Piece
Fix Washer Fluid Bottle
Align Steering Wheel Correctly
Install Driver's Headlight

Possibly Do:

CDV Delete
Tranny & Diff Fluids
TomTom Wire & Fix Gauge Lights
Plasti-Dip Trunk Emblem
Re-Do Steering CF Trim

Going to be a fun week...then Autocross on the 30th. :GheybeSpider

After that only a few things left to fix. Also definitely looking to do a Coolant Temp warning light to go along with the Oil Press warning light.

danewilson77

04-13-2011, 06:19 PM

Things to do from April 17-24:

Install Rotors & Pads
Paint Calipers Silver

Install T-Stat, Water Pump, Condenser, Drier, Hoses, WP Pulley, & Temp Sensor
Install Brake Duct to Intake Hose
Install Fender Liner Lower Piece (Pass.)
Fix Washer Fluid Bottle
Align Steering Wheel Correctly
Install Driver's Headlight

Possibly Do:

CDV Delete
Tranny & Diff Fluids
TomTom Wire & Fix Gauge Lights
Plasti-Dip Trunk Emblem
Re-Do Steering CF Trim

Going to be a fun week...then Autocross on the 30th. :GheybeSpider

After that only a few things left to fix. Also definitely looking to do a Coolant Temp warning light to go along with the Oil Press warning light.

GLWM.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

04-19-2011, 04:30 AM

Did the Front & Rear Pads & Rotors yesterday. BMW Performance Rotors all around with Stoptech Street Performance Pads.

Pads:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9676.jpg

Fronts Before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9687.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9688.jpg

Fronts After:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9690.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9691.jpg

Rears Before:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9669.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9673.jpg

Rears After:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9679.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9681.jpg

MasterC17

04-19-2011, 02:50 PM

My Car went on a diet today, here's what she lost:

Jackstand + Misc.: 7lbs
Trunk Panel: 6lbs
Trunk Mat: 4lbs
Spare: 28lbs
Lower Seat Belts: 1.5lbs
Smaller Seat Back: 12lbs
Larger Seat Back: 24lbs
Lower Seat: 13lbs
Side Bolsters: 3.5lbs

Total: 99lbs. Just couldn't hit 100. Looks like something else will need to come out haha. No pics for now - sorry.

That brings total (est.) weight to 3217.6.

CF Hood: -20lbs (12lbs compared to 32)
Center Armrest Delete: -7lbs
Performance Rotors: -12.4lbs
Today: -99lbs

I would love to get below 3200lbs; would also love to get some lighter front seats and wheels. We shall see what the future brings.

That sunroof is coming out sometime.

danewilson77

04-19-2011, 02:56 PM

Wow....speechless.

MasterC17

04-19-2011, 03:01 PM

Wow....speechless.

Is that a good thing? :rofl

danewilson77

04-19-2011, 03:03 PM

Marcus-SanDiego

04-19-2011, 03:05 PM

MC, you are the man.

iPad. Tapatalk. Bi-winning.

MasterC17

04-19-2011, 03:19 PM

I admire the passion one must have to take these things off of their car...but...in affect...I have done much of the same to mine....but not from a racing perspective.

Think you'll ever get it <3000lbs?

That's the final goal. After that the car will be retired to a 'weekend warrior/auto-x' car most likely. Pick up a nice E30 as a DD.

So, starting at 3217.

Pass. + Drivers Seats: 130lbs | Lightweight Seats: 40lbs | Total: -90lbs
Sunroof: 35lbs | Aluminum Panel to Cover: 2lbs? | Total: -33lbs
Style 135's: 112lbs | Apex ARC-8's: 72lbs | Total: -40lbs
Original Battery: 45lbs | Lightweight Battery | 20lbs | Total: -25lbs

Brings us to: 3029lbs. I'm thinking at that point maybe a CF Trunk? If I go around and remove the excess of sound deadening material that could definitely add up. Then I just have to put it on a scale and see what it really is (all fluids, 1/4 tank of gas, no driver).

I'll be leaving the Spare + Jack and Trunk Panel in the car for driving around just incase I need them but will come out for Auto-X/Track. I've probably had someone in the rear seats a total of five times since I've had the car so not too concerned there :).

Your car is looking great by the way!

MC, you are the man.

iPad. Tapatalk. Bi-winning.

Thank You! You're the man for making this forum. :)

Marcus-SanDiego

04-19-2011, 03:59 PM

Mc, be sure to hit up southpaw (Brandon). He might have some tips on shedding more weight. Find him at bmwmafia.com.

Thanks for being a member of the site, pal.

iPad. Tapatalk. Bi-winning.

danewilson77

04-19-2011, 04:08 PM

Yeah...Brandon E36 ///M3 is weighing slightly more than 2900 lbs now? No?

Marcus-SanDiego

04-19-2011, 04:14 PM

Yeah...Brandon E36 ///M3 is weighing slightly more than 2900 lbs now? No?

Yep. Something right around there, dw.

iPad. Tapatalk. Bi-winning.

MasterC17

04-25-2011, 02:58 AM

I'll shoot a PM to Brandon.

Unfortunately, I ran out of time this week and wasn't able to do the cooling overhaul and other little things with it. I'm busy this upcoming weekend so it will probably wait until the weekend after.

Tonight I should be picking up something, and by that I mean four somethings, that will add to a combined loss of ~40lbs.

09mageec

04-25-2011, 05:34 AM

Love the thread man, the painted CF hood looks NICE!

MasterC17

04-25-2011, 04:30 PM

Love the thread man, the painted CF hood looks NICE!

Thanks! I took a chance with it and the end result was better than expected :fistpump

Here's my 'four somethings':

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9692.jpg

L0veZHP

04-27-2011, 09:07 AM

Get some lighter rims. Kosei K1 in 18x8 and 18x9 sizes (staggered F/R)?

Marcus-SanDiego

04-27-2011, 11:49 AM

I created a new thread regarding MC's pedals. You can find it here (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?2634-MasterC17-Where-did-you-get-your-pedals).

danewilson77

04-27-2011, 12:03 PM

Get some lighter rims. Kosei K1 in 18x8 and 18x9 sizes (staggered F/R)?

Kosei's don't come in an 18......maybe.

If they do....please provide linkage.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

spencers

04-27-2011, 12:43 PM

Here's my 'four somethings':
Nice pickup!!!! SSR Competition?

Get some lighter rims. Kosei K1 in 18x8 and 18x9 sizes (staggered F/R)?
SSR's are pretty dang light! And staggered = bad.

MasterC17

04-29-2011, 08:13 AM

Nice pickup!!!! SSR Competition?

SSR's are pretty dang light! And staggered = bad.

Correct, you sir are the winner! SSR Comp-H's: 18x8.5 and 18.5lbs each.

Get some lighter rims. Kosei K1 in 18x8 and 18x9 sizes (staggered F/R)?

Kosei's are pretty much the same weight, don't come in 18's, and as spencers stated staggered is bad because it creates more understeer which is a problem with our cars anyway. The only wheel I like better than the SSR's are the APEX ARC-8's; but those were out of my budget.

MasterC17

04-29-2011, 02:54 PM

Alright, so the first Autocross of the year is tomorrow. Here's some updates/info.

I bought SSR Comp-H's w/ Goodyear F1 Asymmetric tires. Here's data comparing weights to my old track wheels (ZHP's w/ Michelin Pilot Sports):

ZHP Front Wheel: 28lbs
ZHP Rear Wheel: 28.25lbs
Michelin PS 225/40/18: 21.25lbs
Michelin PS 255/35/18: 22.5lbs

SSR Wheel: 18.5lbs
Goodyear F1 245/40/18: 23.25lbs

ZHP Front + Michelin PS 225: 49.25lbs each
ZHP Rear + Michelin PS 255: 50.75lbs each
SSR + Goodyear F1 245/40/18's: 41.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 225: 39.75lbs each
SSR + Michelin PS 255: 41lbs each

Current Weight Savings: 33lbs total
Weight Savings w/ Michelin PS over Goodyear F1's: 38.5lbs total

Anyway, I dismounted my ZHP Wheels w/ Continental All Seasons and put on the SSR's with the Goodyear F1's. Saves me 33lbs over stock and probably more because I'm pretty sure the Continental's weigh more than the Michelins. Eventually will save 38.5lbs when I swap the Michelin's over the Goodyear's.

So 3217.6 - 33 = 3184.6lbs. On top of this I removed both front floor mats (2 lbs) and 2 rear headrests (2 lbs). This brings total current weight to (est.) 3180.6lbs.

I topped off my oil, washed the car, cleaned the interior, and taped it up for Autocross. Unfortunately, I didn't have time last week to do most of what I wanted to and so I still have a bunch of things to do to the car, but we're slowly getting there.

In terms of the wheels, the Goodyear's are much, much better over the Continentals, then again the Goodyear's are a Summer tire and the Conti's an all-season tire but still, it was a very noticeable difference. The wheels seems more connected to the road and more responsive. I will comment more on the wheels tomorrow.

In other terms, the wheels sit flush with the fenders and look :jawdrop

Here's some pictures as the car stands:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9717.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9710.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9706.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9707.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9708.jpg

danewilson77

04-29-2011, 06:56 PM

Looks great! I can haz blue tape mod too?

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

05-01-2011, 08:01 AM

Looks great! I can haz blue tape mod too?

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

Thanks! You can have this mod, be beware - it's very hard to do! :eeps

Got some videos and data that will be posted up at some point soon.

I came in 6th out of 9 in my class and had the third fastest time. Final scores are decided by averaging your best morning and best afternoon times; my morning times were not so good but my afternoon were much better.

danewilson77

05-01-2011, 08:09 AM

Well done MC. You are representing and making the Mafia proud.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

05-02-2011, 05:59 PM

Well done MC. You are representing and making the Mafia proud.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

Hopefully I can put on a better showing next time :)

As I suspected, the ball joints on the control arm on the side the car was hit are junk.

So, I ordered the E46 ZHP Suspension Upgrade Kit to replace my Control Arms from ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/Search/33500429577/ES58066/. More stuff to do...

spencers

05-02-2011, 06:41 PM

Hopefully I can put on a better showing next time :)

As I suspected, the ball joints on the control arm on the side the car was hit are junk.

So, I ordered the E46 ZHP Suspension Upgrade Kit to replace my Control Arms from ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0L/Search/33500429577/ES58066/. More stuff to do...

Nice! If you don't use the shocks/struts, I may be willing to purchase from ya.

MasterC17

05-28-2011, 04:09 AM

I haven't done anything to the car yet in May - been so busy with school but finally finished up Thursday. I'm planning on installing the Zionsville Thermostat @ 88C tonight or tomorrow night but we'll see what happens. I'm doing an HPDE at NHMS June 30th with the BMW CCA, so I also need another harness and flush the brake fluid along with the 50 other things that need to be done. Fun times!

MasterC17

05-30-2011, 02:17 PM

Today I replaced the Water Pump (Stewart), Thermostat (Zionsville 88C), Pulley (Factory), Condenser (Factory), Receiver Drier (Behr), Coolant Flush (50/50 BMW/Distilled), Passengers Fender Liner (Factory BMW), New Clear Bumper Reflectors (Khoalty), fixed passengers Fog Light (temporarily), and fixed small portion of bumper.

Note: Haven't driven it, but just sitting the car is at about 88-89 Celcius (190-192f) compared to stock 96-97 (204-206f). Total drop of about 8C/15f. I am happy with the results.

Tear-Down Complete:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0191.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0200-1.jpg

Zionsville Thermostat, BMW Pulley, & Stewart Water Pump Installed:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0206.jpg

Behr Receiver Drier:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0208.jpg

BMW Condenser Installed & Radiator Assembly Re-Installed:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0210.jpg

Assembly Complete:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0218.jpg

Tomorrow I just re-install front bumper and check coolant level. It was quite a bit of work and made a big mess but I was able to (pretty much) complete it in 7 hours. Bleeding the coolant wasn't too bad but still a pain.

danewilson77

05-30-2011, 03:37 PM

Well done MC.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

05-30-2011, 06:02 PM

Well done MC.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

Thanks :) Updated with pictures!

MasterC17

06-02-2011, 03:40 AM

Oh no...

Extended
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0228.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0229-1.jpg
Shortened
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0230.jpg

Oh yes! An adjustable brake-duct to air filter hose, not exactly factory looking but pretty much impossible to spot anyway.

bcleaver

06-02-2011, 04:37 PM

MasterC17

06-02-2011, 04:45 PM

Hey cool thread masterC. Not sure how I missed this one! What autocross class are you running in? With all the weight reductions you've done I'm guessing some sort of mod class? Keep up the good work.

Thanks! Currently, I'm just running with my local BMW CCA Club. You are put in a class based on your car (stock), and from there add points for various upgrades. At the moment I am at the max of Class D, trying to stay out of Class C. June 30th I will be running my first track event at NHMS with the CCA and eventually may get into more serious racing/autocrossing - however this is an expensive sport as I'm sure you know!

static667

06-02-2011, 05:14 PM

That a serious rebuild. I like the way you had your hood painted. It's not the ricey "Look at my cf hood" kind of crap. It's stylishly done.

MasterC17

06-03-2011, 03:05 AM

That a serious rebuild. I like the way you had your hood painted. It's not the ricey "Look at my cf hood" kind of crap. It's stylishly done.

Thanks! It was a last minute decision to paint it the way I did, but I think it turned out pretty good. From far away your just confused on how it looks like it does in the middle and close up you can see the carbon fiber weave.

bcleaver

06-03-2011, 07:56 AM

Alright, so the first Autocross of the year is tomorrow. Here's some updates/info.

Here's some pictures as the car stands:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_9717.jpg

What's the story behind all the tape?

Marcus-SanDiego

06-03-2011, 08:29 AM

Rock chip and cone protection. That's my guess.

MasterC17

06-03-2011, 09:03 AM

Rock chip and cone protection. That's my guess.

Bingo, and also partially because it looks kind of cool :). It's really annoying compounding off the black streaks the cones leave, so I figure taping it up is easier. Of course, I always get a cone somewhere where I didn't tape :rofl.

bcleaver

06-06-2011, 03:46 PM

Bingo, and also partially because it looks kind of cool :). It's really annoying compounding off the black streaks the cones leave, so I figure taping it up is easier. Of course, I always get a cone somewhere where I didn't tape :rofl.

Gotcha. Yea, I've seen (and have done) the taping of the 'high traffic' areas to limit cone abuse, but I've never seen a cone hit above the headlights or the side mirrors. I've only seen those areas taped when other cars are throwing rocks. If you're going for looks then more power to you.

MasterC17

06-06-2011, 06:54 PM

Gotcha. Yea, I've seen (and have done) the taping of the 'high traffic' areas to limit cone abuse, but I've never seen a cone hit above the headlights or the side mirrors. I've only seen those areas taped when other cars are throwing rocks. If you're going for looks then more power to you.

Hey, you never know, flying cones can happen! Those places were mostly for stone chips, an abandoned airfield doesn't exactly have a 'clean surface', although it is great for auto-x.

MasterC17

06-08-2011, 12:09 PM

Let's play guess the weight - ready, set, go!

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0458-1.jpg

danewilson77

06-08-2011, 12:27 PM

Let's play guess the weight - ready, set, go!

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0458-1.jpg

12.72 lbs

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

Marcus-SanDiego

06-08-2011, 01:25 PM

16 lbs.

MasterC17

06-08-2011, 08:11 PM

Hmm, I would have guessed you guys were going to be low. It was 9.5lbs.

#4 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BD53&mospid=47713&btnr=51_3266&hg=51&fg=70 and a little piece of carpet I can't find on realoem.

Just finished doing a little bit more weight savings as well as wiring up something I think you guys will find interesting. Next is to install passenger harness. Pics and more info to come.

Marcus-SanDiego

06-08-2011, 08:14 PM

It seemed obvious that it was low, which is why I went high. Haha.

MasterC17

06-09-2011, 06:28 PM

3180.6lbs -9.5lbs, -4lbs (steering column under-panel, passenger upper handle, misc metal) = 3167.1. Installed passenger harness (Schroth Quick-Fit) and installed the LED for something special :).

What could this be?
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0464.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0470-1.jpg

How she sits:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0465-1.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0467-1.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0473-1.jpg

Next is to strip front door panels, maybe remove H/K Amp, maybe some other things too. The problem I am starting to face is offsetting the balance of the car. Looks like some coil-overs may be needed, now I just need the money for them :rofl

Marcus-SanDiego

06-09-2011, 06:31 PM

Swweeet, MC.

johnrando

06-10-2011, 06:57 AM

Nitrous (or the like) indicator?

MasterC17

06-10-2011, 05:40 PM

Swweeet, MC.

Thanks :)

Nitrous (or the like) indicator?

Not quite, you guys will be able to know soon :)

Today I received my oil. I will be doing a mix of Redline 0W-40 (4 Quarts) and 5W-30 (2.5 Quarts). Also received ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid.

MasterC17

06-13-2011, 03:46 PM

Saturday I did the oil change and ended with the above specs. Also re-wrapped the carbon fiber trim on the steering wheel and it came out a lot better. Also plasti-dipped the 330Ci emblem; looks pretty slick. Pics to come.

To Do:

Charge A/C
CDV Delete
Replace Control Arms
Alignment & Balance SSR’s
Change Tranny, Brake, Diff Fluids

murph

06-14-2011, 08:19 AM

MC, do you know where to get center caps for those SSRs? I can't seem to find any. (though I haven't looked terribly hard, either)

MasterC17

06-18-2011, 06:48 PM

MC, do you know where to get center caps for those SSRs? I can't seem to find any. (though I haven't looked terribly hard, either)

I have no idea, the guy I purchased them from put stick-on emblems on; they don't fit perfectly though.

EDIT: Ohh, I didn't even realize these things came out until I went to balance the wheels. They sit in really, really tight. Unfortunately, I still have no idea where to get them.

MasterC17

06-22-2011, 02:56 PM

Ok final weight specs are as follows prior to HPDE at NHMS June 30th.

Total: 3166
Front: 1591
Rear: 1575

I removed another 34.5lbs from the front. Washer Fluid (8lbs), Stripped Door Panels (5lbs ea.), Micro-Filter & Bracket (7.5lbs), Weather Stripping in Engine Bay (1lb), Engine Covers (1.5lbs), Washer Bottle & Pumps (1.5lbs), Glove Box (5lbs). Above specs also include leaving in Spare (28lbs) and Jack (7lbs) to help preserve front/rear ratio and they lower the COG. Total Removed from Front: 86.7lbs. Total Removed from Rear: 102.7lbs. Pics to come next week probably.

danewilson77

06-22-2011, 03:09 PM

Dayum.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

06-25-2011, 05:52 AM

Last night I was at the shop from 6-12 with my uncle. We did the control arms, brake fluid, balanced the SSR's, and charged the A/C. I'm happy to report the new control arms (factory BMW ZHP ones) made the car SOOOOO much better to drive. The steering is much tighter and the alignment is no longer off. I presume that during the accident the control arms (especially passenger) just got totally busted, there was a ton of play in the middle ball joint. One of the SSR's was totally off balance and so now I don't get vibration over 80 like I did before. Needed to change brake fluid for HPDE Thursday. And, after over a year of owning the car, I finally have A/C! No leaks, I'm happy to report.

MasterC17

07-03-2011, 06:24 PM

Finally, pictures as promised! And, a video! I did very well and was faster than anyone else in my group :)

Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXsLt2cpG78

Post-Track:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0525.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0530.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0536.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0532.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0539-1.jpg

On-Track:
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/_CNG7101.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/_CNG7121.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/_CNG6268.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/_CNG6271.jpg

MasterC17

07-07-2011, 11:28 AM

I was pleasantly surprised to make a very exciting discovery today: BMW's listed Curb Weight INCLUDES a 165lb driver. This brings total weight of my car with full fluids (including gas) and NO DRIVER to 3001lbs!!!!! After I do the sunroof delete and lightweight seats I will end at around 2900lbs! =D

Hornung418

07-07-2011, 11:53 AM

danewilson77

07-07-2011, 12:51 PM

MasterC17

07-08-2011, 04:33 AM

Hit up Dean, and see if he can form a CSL roof...That's what I'm interested in doing to my 328i. But roof would have to be custom.

The engine bay is pretty sparse, I like it. But I think the weather stripping is over kill. The barrier between the DME and Brake Booster is now gone and left to the elements under the hood.

Have you thought about removing the wiper assembly and moving to a single center wiper?

Only problem with a CSL roof is it's very expensive for the small amount of weight saved. If I remember correctly, a roof with a sunroof is 62lbs, a roof without a sunroof is 27lbs, and a CSL roof is 7lbs. The nice part about the sunroof delete is it's free (save the filler panel), and I can always revert back if for whatever reason I wanted to. Seeing as how this will never be a full-out racecar I can't justify the cost or hacking the car - although it would be cool. Now that you mention it, I should put the weather stripping back in that area, at the time I was just taking off everything I could find haha. Never considered doing something with the wiper assembly although that's not a bad idea.

That's impressive.

Thanks :) it was a pleasant surprise - 165 free lbs lost!

bcleaver

07-08-2011, 07:48 AM

MasterC17

07-08-2011, 02:35 PM

I would take out the spare and jack, as I think the added weight negatively offsets the benefits from the weight balance. An extra 35lbs to drop is hard to find, especially something that easy to get out of the car.

Actually, I have found that it is the complete opposite. While many manufacturers claim that a 50/50 front to rear weight balance is ideal, the best weight balance is really a 45 (f) and 55 (r) typically found in mid-engined cars. However, mid-engined (and rear-engined) cars don't make much/any sense for much/any companies because it compromises how much sense the car makes. With a mid/rear-engined car you lose the rear seats and the trunk. While some people (such as I) wouldn't care, a vast majority of people would. Even Porsche's rear-engined cars don't have an ideal weight distribution 40/60 and Porsche has come under fire over the fact that they won't put a bigger/more powerful engine in the Cayman which does have a 45/55 ratio. Porsche basically wants to 'protect' the 911. The Cayman R is the closest they have come to compete with the 911 and is a more capable car due to the mid-engine/weight balance. Put a GT3 motor into a Cayman R and you would have one beast of a car. Therefore, ideally I would want to take a bunch of weight out of the front and leave the rear alone. However, this is unrealistic as it's very hard to lose weight off the front of a front-engined car. So, I've been taking equal amounts out of the front and rear therefore maintaining the 50/50 ratio which, although not ideal, is much better than say a 55/45 due to my stripping the rear. Also, the Jack and Spare are relatively low which helps maintain a lower COG.

bcleaver

07-11-2011, 04:41 PM

Actually, I have found that it is the complete opposite. While many manufacturers claim that a 50/50 front to rear weight balance is ideal, the best weight balance is really a 45 (f) and 55 (r) typically found in mid-engined cars. However, mid-engined (and rear-engined) cars don't make much/any sense for much/any companies because it compromises how much sense the car makes. With a mid/rear-engined car you lose the rear seats and the trunk. While some people (such as I) wouldn't care, a vast majority of people would. Even Porsche's rear-engined cars don't have an ideal weight distribution 40/60 and Porsche has come under fire over the fact that they won't put a bigger/more powerful engine in the Cayman which does have a 45/55 ratio. Porsche basically wants to 'protect' the 911. The Cayman R is the closest they have come to compete with the 911 and is a more capable car due to the mid-engine/weight balance. Put a GT3 motor into a Cayman R and you would have one beast of a car. Therefore, ideally I would want to take a bunch of weight out of the front and leave the rear alone. However, this is unrealistic as it's very hard to lose weight off the front of a front-engined car. So, I've been taking equal amounts out of the front and rear therefore maintaining the 50/50 ratio which, although not ideal, is much better than say a 55/45 due to my stripping the rear. Also, the Jack and Spare are relatively low which helps maintain a lower COG.

Do you have any references for the ideal weight distribution to be 45/55? I'd like to read more on the topic. Without knowing anything more than what I've always read (50/50 being "best") I would have guessed that what is ideal would vary on each car individually as suspension type and geometry, chassis stiffness, etc. might play a factor, and what's 'best' for one car car might be different than another.

but let's say the ideal weight balance is 45f and 55r and you leave the jack/spare in to try and stay closer to this, what indicates that being closer to that distribution is better than the entire weight of the car dropping another 35lbs? Is 50/50 at 3,100lbs better than 50.6%/49.4% at 3065lbs. My guess is that subtle change in distribution for the worse would be more than overcome by the total reduction in weight.

If you really felt that the overall weight was less important than the distrubtion, you could always add weight to the back, down low.

But I guess the only real way to know which is 'better' would be to run some laps with it and some without and see which is faster, although I won't get into the need to re-corner balance during testing :)

Thoughts? I'm curious to know more about your reasoning and if it would be beneficial for me to leave my spare in while at the track.

murph

07-12-2011, 12:38 PM

yeah, don't strain your brain too much, lower weight with more front weight bias is *always* faster. Weight bias can be tuned around fairly easily, but you can't get around physics.

MasterC17

07-13-2011, 04:27 AM

Here is a couple articles to read, also if you look at motorcycles they have a 45/55 "rule". One part about this is that it lets you put the power down earlier coming out of a corner. Even with the spare in the trunk I was moving the back end around a bit at NHMS - without it I could have spun. Also, I think we can all agree that Formula 1 Cars are probably the best handling 4-wheel cars in the world - their weight distribution is now 46/54. Without doing real-world testing I can't say for sure, but I would guess somewhere around 45/55 is the best. If I get coilovers it would really improve my ability to mess around with the weight of the car.

http://automotivethinker.com/chassis/stop-and-weight-a-5050-weight-distribution-is-not-optimal/
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/112_0406_ferrari_612_scaglietti/weight_distribution.html

Also, take a look at "Supercar" weight distributions:

458 Italia: 42/58
Carrera GT: 42/58
Mclaren F1: 42/58
Enzo: 44/56
Veyron: 45/55
LP570-4: 43/57
Koenigsegg Agera: 45/55

Now, I must admit that it is a lot harder to achieve such weight distribution with a front-engined car. However, I would just like to attempt to have as much weight in the rear while still dropping weight if at all possible.

danewilson77

07-13-2011, 04:54 AM

So..regarding coilovers and weight distro. Higher means less weight?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

MasterC17

07-13-2011, 05:50 AM

So..regarding coilovers and weight distro. Higher means less weight?

Sorry for the confusion. What I meant by it is that I can remove the "rake" from the car therefore moving some percentage of the weight to the rear. It will also allow me to corner-balance to achieve optimum weight distribution with what I have to work with. The lower the car is typically the better handling due to the lower center of gravity. Of course that assumes that you aren't rubbing anywhere or straining suspension components.

Incase anyone was wondering why I'm not improving the power of the car at all - I'm starting to think an S54 Swap would cost about the same as headers/software/differential/cams/etc. and wouldn't get me to 333 at the crank. Of course, that is a few years away. Also, as I'm still learning, the less HP isn't the worst thing. At the moment, I'm concentrating on suspension and weight.

murph

07-13-2011, 01:16 PM

MasterC17

07-13-2011, 02:03 PM

ok, two things:

1) You're driving a luxury sedan, not a supercar or an F1 car. You've got about 1,000 lbs to drop before weight distribution should be on your radar.
2) Lowering does help, but only to a point, and that point is a lot higher than most people think. Keep it around 13.25" front, 13" rear, and you'll be doing great.

I've done the testing. About 100 autocross runs worth of testing alone. Since May. Yank the spare.

While you're at it, coilovers, camber plates, and swaybars are going to make a huge difference. As are racing seats, though these all cost money.

I'm not driving a supercar? I was misinformed :rofl Are you joking about the 13.25" or am I missing something?

I know I'm overly worried about the weight distribution - I'll take the Spare and Jack out next time. I plan on getting coilovers, etc. when my wallet allows me.

danewilson77

07-13-2011, 03:47 PM

ok, two things:

1) You're driving a luxury sedan, not a supercar or an F1 car. You've got about 1,000 lbs to drop before weight distribution should be on your radar.
2) Lowering does help, but only to a point, and that point is a lot higher than most people think. Keep it around 13.25" front, 13" rear, and you'll be doing great.

I've done the testing. About 100 autocross runs worth of testing alone. Since May. Yank the spare.

While you're at it, coilovers, camber plates, and swaybars are going to make a huge difference. As are racing seats, though these all cost money.

Those measurements are from fender to center of wheel?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

MasterC17

07-13-2011, 05:59 PM

Those measurements are from fender to center of wheel?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Doh, I even figured that out and then forgot :facepalm. Thanks Dane :)

danewilson77

07-13-2011, 06:22 PM

Doh, I even figured that out and then forgot :facepalm. Thanks Dane :)

I was asking because I'm sitting around 12".

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

bcleaver

07-13-2011, 06:42 PM

Those measurements are from fender to center of wheel?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

That is correct. Going too low when driving the car to its limits will result in not having enough travel and riding the bumpstops, resulting in massive understeer.

12" is fine for looks and daily driving, but once you get into the bumpstops it's game over for performance

danewilson77

07-13-2011, 06:45 PM

Got it.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

murph

07-13-2011, 09:10 PM

13.25" is the measurement from the center of the wheel to the fender, measuring straight up. It's a measure of ride height that doesn't change with different tires.

And yes, I'm serious. When the car is slammed, all the suspension travel is in the really nasty part of the camber curve. It won't respond as well, it won't grip as well, and it won't be fast, no matter how totally mad tight it looks.

MasterC17

07-14-2011, 04:06 AM

MasterC17

07-18-2011, 06:02 PM

Current tentative plan for this car is to slowly merge it into a full-blown track car. Engine will be swapped for an S54 due to the weaknesses of the M54 and the inability to get the power equivalent to an S54 for any reasonable amount of money. This winter will be: Tires, Coilovers, Misc. Suspension Upgrades, Racing Seats, Sunroof Delete, Misc. Weight Savings, Ducting for Engine & Brake Cooling. When I do the S54 swap I will also be doing an M3 Rear End with LSD, Aluminum radiator, larger oil cooler, full roll cage with 5-point harnesses, and stripping the car entirely therefore making the car non-street legal. Will keep it street legal leading up to that point. Will also buy a set of APEX ARC-8 9x18's mounted on 265/35/18 slicks at that point. Eventually the car will have a rear wing and front splitter for downforce but not particularly important to begin with. Obviously, I will be documenting all this here. As usual, priority #1 is protecting the engine from self-destruction, something I have been able to so far accomplish in the M54 - I will definitely be keeping my gauges with warning lights.

Speaking of warning lights and protecting the engien, the green LED I added to the gauge plate is so that if the car begins to overheat it will go off therefore warning me. It basically just jumps off the CoolantSnitch: http://zhpregistry.net/Tech/CoolantSnitch.aspx. Reason being with a helmet on and high RPM's it could be hard to hear the beeping from the CoolantSnitch, just added security.

Also, to explain my decision on why this will become a full-blown track car it goes as follows: I know that I want to keep this car forever due to the attachment I have to it from "bringing it back from the dead" and it being my first car and such. While I originally planned to use this as a "weekend warrior" and get a 190E or E30 as a daily driver and an E36 M3 for the true track car, the prospect of having three cars, let alone two, is, admittedly, slightly ridiculous for my situation (first year of college next year). I must admit, I have gotten the "sickness" of tracking cars, and consequently, would love to have a track car. My reservation for making this car a full on track car was the availability of the M3 with another 100hp for not much more money - but I don't want to sell the ZHP. Then I realized, why don't I just swap the S54 into my car - problem solved! While it still probably doesn't make much sense, it seems to be, for me, the best thing to do. Seeing as how this car is salvaged already and so worth less, and being that I fixed it correctly, it really would make a great track car in my opinion.

danewilson77

07-18-2011, 06:22 PM

Wow! Exciting stuff MC.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

kayger12

07-22-2011, 06:40 AM

Very much looking forward to seeing this develop further.

MasterC17

07-22-2011, 09:24 AM

Wow! Exciting stuff MC.

Very much looking forward to seeing this develop further.

Thanks guys, it will be slow progress but at least you will be able to see every step :)

Today I removed the Rear Deck and associated pieces for a total of 28lbs. Breakdown as follows:

H/K Amp/Sub: 7lbs
Rear Deck Speakers: 4lbs for both
Sound Deadening: 4lbs
Rear Deck: 3lbs
Rear Seat Belts + Receptacles: 3lbs for both
Misc. Metal Brackets: 3lbs
Misc. Plastic: 3lbs
Misc. Hardware: 1lb

Not huge, but it was up high so a good place to lose it. Also, going to put the front door panel speakers back in as at the moment I have nothing to listen to, which, as my daily driver is depressing. They only weigh like 6lbs in total for both sides so no big deal. Pictures of rear deck tonight.

danewilson77

07-22-2011, 09:26 AM

Final weight now?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

MasterC17

07-22-2011, 10:12 AM

We are down to an (estimated) 2973.6 with Spare + Jack and 2938.6 without Spare + Jack (full tank of gas, no driver). However, I do believe my estimates are a bit ambitious based on other peoples actual weights. I probably am low by about 75lbs. Some day soon I'll have it actually weighed.

MasterC17

07-22-2011, 04:30 PM

Pictures! Now I need to paint that portion flat black as it is obnoxiously reflective as you can see.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0672.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk52/MasterC17/IMG_0671.jpg

MasterC17

07-23-2011, 07:20 PM

Autocross tomorrow, just found out that new for 2011 if you have no rear seats you automatically are put into the unlimited class - the first autocross this year it didn't apply, I missed the last two, so this should be interesting haha. Maybe I'll just buy some slicks at this point...

MasterC17

07-25-2011, 06:04 AM

Current Tentative List of Things to Do To Car (Keeping it Street Legal):

Engine
Complete S54 Motor
S54 DME & Wiring Harness
E46 M3 Cluster
Epic Motorsports Tune
Bimmerworld Engine Mounts
aFe Stage 2 Intake

Driveline
E46 M3 6-Speed Transmission
BimmerWorld Strapless Clutch
BWSport Transmission Mounts

Cooling
Bimmerworld/C&R Oil Cooler
SPAL Electric Fan 30102120

Exhaust
Bimmerworld Headers
Custom LTW Exhaust

Brakes
PFC 01 (394, 548) Pads
Bimmerworld V2 SS Brake Lines
Bimmerworld Solid Brake Guide
Bimmerworld Brake Cooling Plates
AP Flanges, Ducts, Hose

Suspension
E46 M3 Subframe & Differential
Ground Control Coilovers
Ground Control Camber Plates
Ground Control RSM's
Treehouse Racing FCAB's
M3 RTAB's + Vorshlag Limiters
Ground Control Rear Control Arms
PowerFlex Rear Subframe Mounts
Hotchkis Sport Sway Bars F+R
M3 Front Strut Bar

Wheels
Apex ARC-8 18x9
Bimmerworld Stud Kit
Yokohama Slicks

Safety
Sparco Evo's

Fluids
RedLine 10W-60
Motul RBF600
RedLine Water Wetter

Weight Loss
Lightweight Battery
Strip Interior (Leave Dash, Door Panels, Airbags, Seat Belts)
Strip Entire HVAC System
Sunroof Delete

Once I make it a full-on race car I will do a roll cage, front diffuser, and rear wing. Suggestion welcome!

Marcus-SanDiego

07-25-2011, 06:05 AM

MC, you are one busy boy. Nice going.

MasterC17

07-27-2011, 03:36 AM

MC, you are one busy boy. Nice going.

Thanks! Some may call me crazy, I would tend to agree :rofl

After looking it over, buying all the S54 parts separately would be a total PITA, therefore, I will need a donor car (04+ less than 60k, preferably hit in the rear). Hopefully I can get it cheap, part out everything I'm not using, and come close to break-even. To complete the swap it appears I will need the following major components:

Complete Motor
Transmission
DME
Wiring Harness
Rear Subframe
Differential
Cluster

Will also need several 'small' components and will be replacing/updating some.

MasterC17

08-01-2011, 03:54 AM

I believe I will be going with the following coil-overs: http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=692/CA=232 and probably with spring rates of 6"/500lbs front and rear.

Sunroof delete will be done using this and a lot of time: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574947307&toolid=10001&campid=5336776893&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2 FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D290582934055

Brake ducting will be done using the BW Plates: http://store.bimmerworld.com/brake-cooling-kits-and-parts-p45.aspx this ducting: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL42150/ these flanges: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL42160/ and these ducts fitted to the OEM brake ducts: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL42141/. The whole kit from bimmerworld would cost ~630 with the front ducts, this route it will cost around $320.

billschusteriv

08-01-2011, 05:23 AM

Nice!

Love the sunroof delete (not for me, though :biggrin)- the M3Forum thread linked in the eBay ad is a pretty sweet writeup.

MasterC17

08-01-2011, 07:02 AM

Nice!

Love the sunroof delete (not for me, though :biggrin)- the M3Forum thread linked in the eBay ad is a pretty sweet writeup.

Yes, it will be very helpful when I go to do it :)

MasterC17

08-19-2011, 05:54 PM

As you guys may have noticed a majority of my pictures are down - I sold the website they were hosted on but I will be getting a new website dedicated to my car for the pictures, etc. I will be driving at Watkins Glen September 2-4 and will net about 6 hours of track time at the 3-day event. Only thing I'm changing from the event at NHMS is: 80C Thermostat (Instead of 88C), Tranny Fluid Changed, Differential Fluid Changed, New Alignment, CDV Delete. I plan on buying coilovers, tires, and misc. suspension parts over the winter - we'll see what happens. Also picked up a winter beater (1992 190E 2.6) that I will be fixing up over the winter - yes that means the ZHP will be going into hibernation.

danewilson77

08-19-2011, 06:18 PM

Sounds like a smart plan MC17.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

MasterC17

08-26-2011, 03:07 PM

Installed 80C Thermostat (Cars runs at 83C), NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, and Mahle Fuel Filter. More to come.

MasterC17

08-27-2011, 05:32 PM

Installed new rear shock mounts with Z4 reinforcement plates, front strut tower reinforcement plates, CDV delete (is awesome!), transmission fluid and differential fluid. 5 more days! :) Still need to do fan override switch and get an alignment.

MasterC17

09-09-2011, 02:24 PM

Well Watkins Glen was a partial success. I battled high oil temps (300f+) the entire weekend which resulted in two oil changes and a loss of 4 sessions (basically a day). I could hang with almost anything else out there when the car wasn't too hot but after a few laps the oil temps would shoot up and I'd have to cruise around for a few laps. I'm currently working on modifying a M54 oil filter housing to accommodate an oil cooler while retaining stock functionality. Overall the car performed great minus the oil overheating. Also found out that my rear lower control arms are both bent; apparently the company that towed the car after the accident decided that it was easier to bend the RLCA's rather than attach to the freaking tow hook in the trunk. Car will be undergoing a rather large transformation this winter.

bcleaver

09-09-2011, 03:59 PM

MasterC17

09-09-2011, 04:57 PM

Right on. Interesting about the oil temp. What all have you read regarding proper temperature and risk of over heating the oil? I don't even have a sensor, so no idea how hot mine gets, but you've certainly made me think.

+1 for any pics from the event.

Normal operating temperature for the oil in our cars is around 230f. Optimally, oil temp would be 180f-200f. At about 280f you should start worrying, at about 300f you start to bake the oil (it becomes more like water than oil) and consequently you lose a large amount of pressure and lubrication. If you're just doing autocross I really wouldn't worry - in my experience my oil never crested 240f at autocross. The problem on the track is we were running half-hour sessions with long straights on a hot day and lots of throttle continuously. It stunk because I could never keep on it for too long after the first 10 minutes or so. I ended up baking the oil twice (it's pretty weird when you pull off the oil filter cap it just leaks droplets as if it were oil) so I did two oil changes.

I was so wrapped up in not blowing the motor that I didn't end up taking any pictures, got very little video/data, and not a single clean lap recorded. Regardless, I had a great instructor and I learned a lot (he had me take the camera out too after the first few sessions so that didn't help my video acquisition) and I learned a lot (primarily being smooth and consistent). My best rough estimated lap was a 2:27 (stopwatched by my Dad watching). If I can get as much done to the car this winter as I'd like to I hope to be running well under 2:20 next year :)

If at any point you become interested in a oil filter housing that accommodates an oil cooler let me know as I may be making a batch of 10.

Hornung418

09-09-2011, 05:05 PM

MasterC17

09-09-2011, 05:32 PM

Were you running The Boot or the Nascar Circuit? Sucks about the oil. Why do you want to keep the OFH stock? I think you should do what PEI330CI did with his. I don't have the link but it's in his impressive build thread.

Running with the Boot.

The reason is I want to modify the stock oil filter housing is that it preserves stock functionality and it's cheaper. The way PEI330Ci had it set up it (VAC Billet OFH) it 1. Cost's more 2. Requires more fabrication 3. Requires external oil filter. 4. Requires re-location of power steering reservoir. It's fine for track cars but for a car that is used on the street it is not very appealing.

bcleaver

09-09-2011, 06:11 PM

How difficult was the oil temp guage install, and do you recall what the cost of the whole setup was?

MasterC17

09-10-2011, 04:18 AM

How difficult was the oil temp guage install, and do you recall what the cost of the whole setup was?

Here's my DIY: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?935-Oil-Pressure-Oil-Temperature-amp-Voltmeter-Gauges-DIY

Total cost was about $270. It takes a lot of time, but as long as you have some electrical experience I wouldn't call it hard. One thing to note, if you do what I did and jump multiple grounds off a master ground, make sure the master ground is a SOLID connection (i.e. to the frame of the car). I jumped off the cigarette lighter ground at first and if the oil got over 250f the gauges would bug out (basically lose the ground) and the oil pressure would go to 0 and temp to max. The reason I knew that wasn't actually happening is 1. the oil temp couldn't jump that fast and 2. my low oil pressure light didn't come on (the oil pressure sensor grounds itself to the engine and then its just a straight shot of power to the LED).

MasterC17

10-19-2011, 12:34 PM

Not much new to report. Removed headlight washing system and fog lights (haven't weighed yet). Bought a set of four new Kumho Ecsta XS's 235/40/18 for next year. Oil cooler is in progress. A/C system is coming out in the spring along with a bunch of other things. Will be ordering an ATI Damper and GC Coilovers.

danewilson77

10-19-2011, 01:56 PM

You never cease to amaze. Well done.....

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

bcleaver

09-08-2012, 09:41 PM

Just trolling around and realized this hadn't been updated in a very long time. Anyone know what the story is, or how are the track days going?

Hornung418

09-08-2012, 10:02 PM

He bought an e46 M3 and did the same thing to it. Now he's tracking that instead of the ZHP. Not sure what he did with the 330 though.

MasterC17

02-24-2013, 03:58 PM

He bought an e46 M3 and did the same thing to it. Now he's tracking that instead of the ZHP. Not sure what he did with the 330 though.

I've been caught :rofl

Admittedly, and I'm sad to say it, I sold the 330 to make way for an M3. Reason being, it was just too much time and money to sink into the 330 when I could buy an M3 for the same money (turned out to be less actually). While I would have loved to throw an S54 in the 330, it just didn't financially or time-wise make any sense. HOWEVER, I am planning on putting an S54 in a 330 ZHP Sedan. Right now, I have an 07 M5, and as much as I love it, the gas mileage is horrid and it's too big for me (I'm 5'3"). So, that will be my next project which I'll document on this board. Not sure when it will happen, but I promise it will happen. Need to sell the M5 first. After having the M3 completely apart, an S54 swap into a 330 actually should be fairly "easy". Don't worry, I'll be back! If you want to see what terrible things I did to the M3, see my build thread here: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=400849