E_Rak
06-01-2013, 10:27 AM
Hello folks. Mr. Nic "Stiggissimo" was kind enough to loan me old, pitted, scratched, dirty, gross, and disgusting (sorry buddy) headlight lenses to refinish. The entire process I'll go through can be done in about twenty minutes. There are shorter methods to get it done, and longer methods as well if you so choose. This however, is an average method meant for people with average skills and an average amount of time! Keep in mind that everything I have done here was all by hand. With a buffer or orbital polisher and some finesse, there are of course even better results to be had.
*Disclaimer: This is WAY easier when the lenses are on the car. Just tape up your work area if you are worried about getting polish everywhere.
Before: (Pardon the garage floor, this was done at work)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/8914345201_8bbf36f992_b.jpg
Step 0: Clean clean clean!
A lot of people miss this pre-emptive step. A good cleaning should always be done before working on paint or plastic for the best results. I used a pretty heavy duty cleanser in this case, but just about anything should work fine (simple green, APC, etc.) Use a clean towel or rag as well to prevent more scratches from forming. Make sure to do a thorough job inside and out. Look at the difference this simple step can make.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/8914343971_5d95ab99cc_b.jpg
Step 0.5: Clay
An optional step in the cleaning process is using a claybar with lube on the outside of the lens to remove any embedded dirt leftover from the cleaning stage. This is highly recommended if you are going to use a polisher. I chose to forgo it here.
Step 1: Wetsanding
Wetsanding involves using fine-grit sandpaper soaked in water to provide a helpful and STRONG initial cut into scratches and pits on the surface of a light or paint before compounding. Oftentimes, people make the mistake of going to a very low grit (100 or less) when they begin the process. DO NOT fall into the trap! I can't emphasize this enough. A grit that low is much too course, even for tough plastic lenses, and will induce heavy scratches. For paint, most detailers use 1000 or 2000 grit. I would recommend starting 1000 grit to get a nice cut and minimize new scratches. There is a bit of trial and error to be done in finding the right combination for the lenses. This can be done either by hand, with a sander, or even with a polisher attachment. I did not wetsand in this example process.
Step 2: Compounding
This step does the most work in refinishing your lenses. Smear some nice cut compound on a microfiber or other compounding pad/towel and get to work on the the lenses. Use some elbow grease, making sure to work each area thoroughly. You may want to do a few applications here. If using a polisher, use a relatively high speed and push hard to get the most work out of the compound. Be careful not burn any paint! After compounding, again clean the lens with a fresh microfiber or other very soft towel.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5347/8914345779_b2ba97ca61_b.jpg
Step 3: Polishing
Polishing is a semi-optional step that will add some extra clarity after the compounding step. Following a similar method as in step two, go over the lenses at least once with the polish on a new towel or polishing pad. Use less pressure this time around or slow down your polisher if using one. You can see in the photo how a tiny bit of crispness is added. Don't forget to clean again after you are done.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5449/8914964102_6cfef5d247_b.jpg
Step 4: Protection
Always use it. After you are satisfied with the clarity of your lenses, make sure you add a layer or two of your favorite sealant or wax to lock in your new-found clarity. You could instead apply a layer of Lamin-X or similar to really protect the plastic.
Notes:
*Not all lenses are created equal! Some will come out beautifully on the first try, others won't clear up nicely no matter how hard you work at it. The lens I restored for this thread came out much clearer than the passenger side "before" lens in the pictures.
Some type of (UV) protectatnt is needed to keep the finish up....sealant like Opti Coat or a BlackFire Crystal Seal might help...I think. ANY cleaning process like this takes the factory UV coating off, so repeated cleaning will be required periodically to take off hazing due to UV.
Finished Comparisons:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8914966360_322f5e6a1d_b.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2893/8914962458_bc14d63ccd_b.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/8914348043_62b4b75f40_b.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/8914347473_1ae327ec3f_b.jpg
Happy cleaning, good luck! :cheers
*Disclaimer: This is WAY easier when the lenses are on the car. Just tape up your work area if you are worried about getting polish everywhere.
Before: (Pardon the garage floor, this was done at work)
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/8914345201_8bbf36f992_b.jpg
Step 0: Clean clean clean!
A lot of people miss this pre-emptive step. A good cleaning should always be done before working on paint or plastic for the best results. I used a pretty heavy duty cleanser in this case, but just about anything should work fine (simple green, APC, etc.) Use a clean towel or rag as well to prevent more scratches from forming. Make sure to do a thorough job inside and out. Look at the difference this simple step can make.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/8914343971_5d95ab99cc_b.jpg
Step 0.5: Clay
An optional step in the cleaning process is using a claybar with lube on the outside of the lens to remove any embedded dirt leftover from the cleaning stage. This is highly recommended if you are going to use a polisher. I chose to forgo it here.
Step 1: Wetsanding
Wetsanding involves using fine-grit sandpaper soaked in water to provide a helpful and STRONG initial cut into scratches and pits on the surface of a light or paint before compounding. Oftentimes, people make the mistake of going to a very low grit (100 or less) when they begin the process. DO NOT fall into the trap! I can't emphasize this enough. A grit that low is much too course, even for tough plastic lenses, and will induce heavy scratches. For paint, most detailers use 1000 or 2000 grit. I would recommend starting 1000 grit to get a nice cut and minimize new scratches. There is a bit of trial and error to be done in finding the right combination for the lenses. This can be done either by hand, with a sander, or even with a polisher attachment. I did not wetsand in this example process.
Step 2: Compounding
This step does the most work in refinishing your lenses. Smear some nice cut compound on a microfiber or other compounding pad/towel and get to work on the the lenses. Use some elbow grease, making sure to work each area thoroughly. You may want to do a few applications here. If using a polisher, use a relatively high speed and push hard to get the most work out of the compound. Be careful not burn any paint! After compounding, again clean the lens with a fresh microfiber or other very soft towel.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5347/8914345779_b2ba97ca61_b.jpg
Step 3: Polishing
Polishing is a semi-optional step that will add some extra clarity after the compounding step. Following a similar method as in step two, go over the lenses at least once with the polish on a new towel or polishing pad. Use less pressure this time around or slow down your polisher if using one. You can see in the photo how a tiny bit of crispness is added. Don't forget to clean again after you are done.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5449/8914964102_6cfef5d247_b.jpg
Step 4: Protection
Always use it. After you are satisfied with the clarity of your lenses, make sure you add a layer or two of your favorite sealant or wax to lock in your new-found clarity. You could instead apply a layer of Lamin-X or similar to really protect the plastic.
Notes:
*Not all lenses are created equal! Some will come out beautifully on the first try, others won't clear up nicely no matter how hard you work at it. The lens I restored for this thread came out much clearer than the passenger side "before" lens in the pictures.
Some type of (UV) protectatnt is needed to keep the finish up....sealant like Opti Coat or a BlackFire Crystal Seal might help...I think. ANY cleaning process like this takes the factory UV coating off, so repeated cleaning will be required periodically to take off hazing due to UV.
Finished Comparisons:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8914966360_322f5e6a1d_b.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2893/8914962458_bc14d63ccd_b.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/8914348043_62b4b75f40_b.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/8914347473_1ae327ec3f_b.jpg
Happy cleaning, good luck! :cheers